My Tibet Travels (I)
"Tibet, Tibet, and I am longing for day and night, will one day set foot on Napian magical land!"
In April when I returned from a trip from Yunnan at the end of the Travels says.
As a result, the entire four months, has been in increasingly clear vision and urgent to wait for being. Until you reach September, will take place this month, finally got ascribed aspire to own and begin to prepare Tibet trip. Look for materials, to talk about travel, tickets and do the border card, all the tedious step by step solution; to buy travel size, buy medicine, buy food, must weigh all crammed into a backpack after repeatedly. Busy and happy for two weeks because Huaizhao yearning for the unknown because there is a long journey in front of us, disturbances of the mind must have been Doukai flying wings.
Lhasa, September 16
16:00, the aircraft landed at the Gonggar Airport, we are pushing luggage walking out of the apron. A sudden rise in elevation from zero to more than 3600 meters of height, do not know what kind of altitude sickness will be waiting for us. Escorted around the pace of luggage crystal firm, a look of excitement. She is also a fan of Tibet, early to finalize the itinerary, the same way with me with great expectations. Behind Kay, I "hard working" husband, pushing the luggage cart piled mountain-shaped, with a smile, but a bit tired. Busy, he added a row in order to have a long break for a few days classes on the plane today, the Provisional ago Huile Tang Corporation, which makes almost wrong machine. However, we finally came, hot and humid air from the South to bury their boredom of everyday life, we have entered Tibet pure, warm, dry sunshine into.
Toward terminal, all of a sudden there is a trace of apprehension, I know that there are two people opposite are waiting for us.
Fung, my old classmate, the impression that he actually surprisingly calm Anfen readily joined our travel plans and most carefully prepared a large number of essential drugs. Allowed to gaze longingly see we started waving. Abundance where suits and ties on weekdays for travel attire so I almost could not recognize them.
Smiling, standing next to is our driver and guide this process, Xiao Xin, I already know in Yunnan. In order to make good arrangements for this trip that, as a sponsor, I am by e-mail, phone contact several times with the Xiao Xin, from the route, weather, the food, clothing, and even a pencil book to present to the mountains like the child's small gift are unavoidably discussed. For me to do so carefully Shenwei faction must have patience to answer Xiao Xin in the 11's I can not help but joke.
However, the heart-cut and give everything, if light weight. To me, a trip to Tibet, of all things, and have endless fun, repeated over and over again into a wordy but still have no perception of their own. So, in preparation for the day, Kay often laugh at me such as "Xianglinsao," I do not deny that, because I feel the joy of them on the look.
"Comrades, elevation Gaoyao attention to slow-moving toward a parking lot 。。。。。。" abundance for everyone to remind all seriousness. Sure enough, he set an example, all the movements are slowed down by half a beat, and thin body walking robot joints, such as rusty. I was about to pass the Comedy a fleet has a look of seriousness that he had to put into the mouth of the jokes have been swallowed back.
Xiao Xin luggage quick and neat way to help us on the train, while also urged the people must not look down on high-altitude, to less effort to drink plenty of water and so on. I would sit idle roadside spectator. The genial sunshine warm the body, the breathing is very smooth, and there is no sense of thin air. Xiao Xin already looked scrub a new Mitsubishi jeep, going to carry us over thousands of miles of off-road vehicles, and my heart began to believe effectively: I have come to Tibet. Sat beside the crystal with the cast-off knowing smile, I know that she was so thinking.
Gonggar Airport in Lhasa more than an hour away by car, walking along the Lhasa River. Asphalt repair very well, spacious straight, neat and orderly roadside Young trees, lush leaves start yellowing into the early autumn, in the blue skies to look cool. Lhasa River water clarity, flow and sometimes turbulent, sometimes calm, the river washed out piece of the flood on the growth of the barley or small trees, interspersed get Lhasa River Graceful. Across the river is stretching the earth mountains, gently undulating in the afternoon sun on the hillside has reddish Phi sprinkle warm, unlike the majestic plateau imagination. After a Qushui move on after the bridge, and soon to enter Lhasa.
The urban area than I imagined large and clean, wide roads and tidy houses can be seen in recent years, the face of a huge difference in Lhasa and across the country the results of aid to Tibet. Far, the Potala Palace, gradually entering the field of vision. The golden roof, red and white walls, built on a high slope above the supremacy over all, imposing, as they say, is "the palace of heaven." Seen countless photograph of the Potala Palace, from all angles each time, but also imagined the scene many times has shown signs of the Potala Palace. Today, the real before our very eyes met, and makes a positive from the side that, along the Main Street Plaza, Abdallah slowly before, I'm still unprepared at a loss: the long-term aspirations suddenly into the reality of being, let me caught off guard too late to joy.
Eight Long school hostel accommodation on the main road in Lhasa, Beijing Road, not far from the Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple and convenient transportation. 8 Long Learning is a typical Tibetan architecture, hospitality self-FIT travel more, the price fair. Friends of the entrance sign bulletin board covered with travel companions, or car journey, messages or information. We dare not neglect to settle your luggage and immediately climbed in bed. Clean and quiet rooms, ceilings and surrounded by walls painted Cangshi. Quiet down soon after found himself heart and is excited first arrived in Tibet, or the beginning of altitude sickness? I stared at the ceiling wondering Cangshi pattern, gradually confused them.
Wake up, dusk has been concentrated. I consciously breathe energy recovery, urging everyone to go out foraging. Unexpectedly came the bad news, we have a people who move into the plateau began to respond. Kay pale, shortness of breath, nausea and no appetite. I can not help but worry about them.
Lhasa, September 17
Early morning wake up very early in the evening did not sleep, I feel excited and heart beat fast, crystal abundance also said so, but our spiritual good and. The real worry is still the Kai, he was an all night, and nausea and vomiting. Xiao Xin had to first take us to the Lhasa City People's Hospital. (At this point another study found that eight Long a benefit: from the special hospitals close.) Accompanied Kay drips oxygen, we have shouted in sitting room, things to observe the contrast, some can not help but smile: think of the hospital has become our first trip to Tibet an "attraction."
PM decided to go Norbulingka, the Dalai Lama's summer palace, which means "precious garden."
Upon entering the park trees, cool breeze, it really was a quiet location. Our party of four slowly pacing along the tree-lined road. Park layers of ancient cypress pine trees to cover the living blocks of magnificent palaces. Turn the woods to see the golden Norbulingka. That it was "gold" is not too much, plus bright yellow golden dome golden roof window curtain, absolutely shine in the blue sky under the sun, was surrounded by the four flowers Zhou Yanli, shows a royal luxury style. It is not too much to contemplate the details of the exquisite dazzling and expensive thing that strikes you, guess whether it is the owner fixed the dignity and wealth.
Turned into a more quiet paths, a private house to attract us. Powder white walls, black-framed windows and doors, door canopies and window canopies fluttering with bright trim on a white curtain, which is a typical Tibetan style. Prominent is the door that is particularly well-decorated wooden doors, painted bright red, with thick black line outlines the door, a door ring tied colorful hada, eye-catching brilliant. It seems Tibetans love with a strong eye-catching colors decorate their homes, because this is closest to the sun, days of the most blue, clouds of the most white of all things can be rich and pure to the limit.
Norbulingka stroll away to the center of the Old City of Lhasa - Jokhang Temple.
Jokhang Temple is the oldest building in Lhasa, has been 1400 years of history, in Tibetan Buddhism, has the unparalleled sacred status. China's general entrance doors to the Nankai temple, but the Jokhang Monastery, west door remains open. This is because the then Princess Wen Cheng devout Buddhism, the Tang was west learn from, so she designed this Terakado Buddhist shrine for the West. Jokhang Temple main hall at the top, modified with unique bronze birds, Aquarius, Deer, Falun, magnificent. Temple door, a large number of believers from all over the main hall was no one to kneel before kowtowing. Careful observation of the long head knock actions: Gaojuguotou hands together, then moved to the face, chest, and then the body prostrate, hands-reach, forehead tap the ground, was cast in five body shape, mouth constantly recite scriptures, and so back and forth. This is perhaps the world's most pious way of prayer.
Look on his followers to rise and fall constantly knock heads, and knew it had been surrounded by a group of beggars around, looking at me helplessly stretched out dark and hand. I burst flustered, hurried a few half-hearted, they go to next turn through the Road - the street was, initially turning around the Jokhang Temple of pilgrims who day after day, year after year, step on out, it is now to become the largest small commodities market in Tibet.
As the crowd walking in the street was bustling, there are turning the believers, kowtow of pilgrims, tourists leisurely, different wear people with a mix of different purposes, pro-movement in one direction along the street. I do not buy things just go follow the flow and feel of this street magic: rich commercial atmosphere trace a bit solemn and dignified. Perhaps, here is an ancient religious culture and the modern commercial society, nature and integration of the intersection where the most unique.
The Road to a half turn to go, Kay said that the body does not want to go back alone in first. Playfulness is thick I was thinking to go full circle by turning the Road, so I agreed. See you in the back of his slightly curved to gradually integrate into the crowd to leave, mind straight regret not accompany him to look after him properly.
Has completed a lap street was the remaining three got into the blocks of the eight profiles cafe. This is a layout of a very foreignized cafes, both cafes, reading rooms and galleries. The perspective of an open-air terrace is also excellent, both up close and in between the Jokhang Temple in Taipei, can also overlooking the horizon stands the Potala Palace. As a result, in Lhasa, the afternoon sun, I am tired of sitting on the spacious terrace chair where to sleep, to a salad and fruit juice as afternoon tea, listening to Arab music, inexplicable, feeling safe and comfortable, such as winter days basking in sun cat.
As the misses Kai's condition, rest soon learned back to 8 Long. Sure enough, the state, he is not good, the hospital that night two oxygen Diaozhen. Even doctors said little serious, but I looked lively on weekdays where the husband had obediently sorption of oxygen is now stuck in Diaozhen, and my heart just anxious tears.
Night back to the hotel, go next door to the teahouse to drink buttered tea, is said to alleviate altitude sickness. Kay after infusion gradually restored ruddy face, looked at him a thick one to drink buttered tea, my heart finally some happy.
Lhasa, September 18
Good morning, Kay's illness reduced, but the crystal began to gastrointestinal discomfort. For safe and smooth continued long after the journey, we passed through the hospital the third time. The others are doubly careful to take medicine on time has become a required daily homework, what good deposit films, 100 Ning, Rhodiola, etc., a lot a lot to swallow, as if such and such can be immune to all disease invaded the .
Watched his companions one by one Toutongnaore, my condition was surprisingly good, and consciously every day to energetic. Kay surprise to her I say, never thought you go to the plateau on by the "worm" has become a "dragon." I thought, is not the case, because there will be occasional headache or symptoms of heart beat faster. Just that I firmly believe that they are able to overcome. There is a force, there is a voice in support of me said to me: This is your dream of travel, this is your yearning for a long time, you can not fall! As a result, shook his head, smiles, all the discomfort behind. As a result, really well, Shenqingruyan, Jianbu like a champ. So, in my opinion, the regulation of mental states on the plateau stronger than any drug.
Discharge Kay went back to hotel, and the remaining three tour Sera Monastery. Sera Monastery in Lhasa, one of the three temples, located in northern suburb of the salad Wuzi mountain city with convenient traffic.
Passing through a row of trees, Xiao Xin carry us into the temple of high wall, and, at first glance as if entered a village, back in accordance with the mountains, housing scattered, dense and not crowded, mixed and not chaos. Detour along the trail in the courtyard, the four quiet, occasionally came several more barking. Close to midday sunlight glaring white walls, so that the first time I felt the fierce high altitude sun. The shadow of a tree into the wall, they immediately breeze, temperature significantly.
Turn into a nondescript yard, foot of the wall side of clumps wildflowers surprise me. There is a common deep courtyard of brick, has significantly mottled khaki-colored powder wall, the wall of wood where the defendant came by the faint sound of Xu is a bit hard-working monks are doing their homework. A corner of the window, those who are warmly Rosa xanthina the wildflowers bloom. White and purple and white, while the Snob Qingli, it is my favorite color. A light breeze blowing over the flowers, swaying in the pristine soil and delicate green leaves, is in the sun lonely dance. Carefully picked a bundle inserted in the brim, though he has gorgeous flowery.
To continue to walk the main temple stands guarded welcome side walls, rough stones neatly storing solid, the next on the narrow width of the ladder structure makes the whole building has been overstating visually, looked solemn and dignified. Great wall, the shadows, there is a door leading to another courtyard, stepped into the door to suddenly see the light, courtyard surrounded by flowers, is the residence of lamas. Hospital Central has a White Tower, look closely it is water towers, three monks are negotiating with a smile then washed shirt. The courtyard is full of flavor of life, with homes outside the fortified walls in sharp contrast. I think the lamas of Tibetan Buddhism even have to abide by a strict doctrine of doing homework all day long chanting worship deities, but they equally love life, flowers, grass, happy Ganhuo under the blue sky. Buddhism is not a rigid penance.
Rest, when we look at the monastery used the toilet, a very interesting experience. It built on the roof of a block on floor, all-natural way without shelter block, that is, the rise of the Castle Peak and the blue sky. I and two turns to hold the crystal roof of the little door, Fung was downstairs yelling that someone, the scared we act in haste, gripped with horror. However, there is indeed a good scenery, view open, green hills and panoramic view of the monastery, and the fresh air. I can not help but think of Tiger Leaping Gorge in the Halfway hotels-called "best in the world toilet", and here is quite similar to the Miao. Tibetans said that the "convenience" is a natural thing, so often attributed to natural natural, very little to build toilets. This is after we have the profound understanding of the journey. Moreover, the last resort, have no choice but to comply with this natural theory.
Sera is a well-known post-rock art mountains. Climb the stairs and down the mountain, rock paintings, carved in pieces on a huge rock on, after a century of color is still bright, engraved statues and Tibetan deities Proverbs. When we looked around, the entire hill was decorated colorful rock art, business overflowing. Standing on a huge rock art before, touching portrait of a rough rock and smooth lines, could not help but admire the Tibetan folk artist's skills and dedication.
Continue to Peak Pa Qu, steps had been no road, only Deng Zhao-hole around the feet of passers-Cai Chu rock climbing. Crystal are already out of sitting in the cool foothills of the large trees. Climbed halfway up the mountain hike in the hills of abundance in situ has also sit angry to breathe. I looked at the Peak, Peak blue sky, white clouds passed, as if beckoning me up is up. So I pull themselves together, a solid step every step of the way, and soon finally reached the summit.
Peak flat, there is a large bare rock, chimney in the birth of the flowers and weeds in the wind Gently rocking. Themselves flat on the rocks were overturned visor off his sunglasses and enjoy the sun shining on the body with impunity. To lie down until feeling person is so tired, but hearts as easily as Feng ER. The sky is clear, such as Bi, clouds white as snow, the heart from the days seem very close to close. Surrounded by silence, I clearly hear his own breathing and the breeze blowing over the sound, the whole mountain is only one person I am, I felt a tremendous freedom. This time, I believe that the soul can be Chuqiao, it rose to the clouds float slowly, silently overlooking the Castle Peak earth, happy people on a hillside overlooking the children themselves to the sun.
Down after the companions to join, I am quietly Yi Zhu hearts with joy. Knew at that moment looking to find something, which, it is simply a far the most personal feelings, how can we say?
In the evening went to the Drepung Monastery. Long way to turn back eight studies, crystal and abundance back to the hotel to rest up and Kay struggled to accompany me to see Drepung Monastery. Far away from Lhasa Drepung Monastery, located west of the city is more Pi Wu Zi Shannan Pass on the slopes, is the largest monastery in Tibet, Dalai Lama, the mother temple calendar. Drepung in Tibetan means "rice heap" and the courtyard is the largest number of monks, and Sera, Ganden and that "the three major monasteries in Lhasa."
Xiao Xin drive took us to the hillside temple is located at the entrance, I and Kay slowly pacing up the hill. Zigzag mountain mountain was all uphill. Turn the corner with a few, altitude sickness healed of Kay stopped walking, his face became pale, breathing heavily together. Last resort, had to go back parking lot of his arm rest, by Xiao Xin continue to accompany me into the mountains. I do not know where it came from physical, play a half a day I'm still walking easy, high spirits, as if returned to the student at the time in good condition.
Drepung Monastery in accordance with the mountain step by step in the construction of vertical and horizontal roadway, group F, layered, well looked scales sub-section ratio, like a mountain. The sky near dusk, the setting sun sprinkled on the walls height Fanchu gold, the markedly effective tall and solemn. Temple has no visitors, and we walk in the narrow alleys between the walls, surrounded by silence, light flickering manner, such as into the maze. Went to the main hall - outside the Great Hall through an open space Looking look up layer upon layer upon layer of mountains and monasteries, where the temple construction was significantly more than the other tall and towering temple, magnificent momentum, worthy of the largest monasteries in Tibet.
To find two monks ask for directions, they enthusiastically recommended guidelines, and we must in good faith with them afterwards to a certain audience with a Buddha hall, very efficacious. Even after the lapse of time to visit, but you can immediately find deacons Lama to open the door. As a result, the curiosity to follow them away. Road passing through a courtyard, climbed up several escalators, we came to a temple outside the high.
Deacon Lama came, tall and fat, smiling face graceful, wrapped in pieces of jujube red cassocks, there is a common kind that movie great lamas look familiar. Bite the tongue, he spoke Mandarin with a warm introduction to the Mandarin, this temple dedicated to the monastery of the most noble and most efficacious of the future Buddha, can not but worship. See Xiao Xin already among hesitate simply to worship it down, palms together reverently placed from beginning to surface to the chest to the ground to worship on bended knees.
Faced with this scenario I always have a trace of confusion. From small to large atheist education is firmly entrenched in my mind, there is no way to put their ideas confidently to a particular religion or belief. However, when I saw those sincerely Xiangfo (or God or God), spiritual sustenance of man-hours have always admired. Tibetan people, said: "Having faith is not the soul alone, not lonely soul is harmony; a belief in life is peaceful, quiet life is happiness." Generations living in the material and the lack of Tibetan plateau, Poverty alone, but the spirit of the rich. We live in a fast-paced world of material wealth, affluence and the soul of loneliness. In contrast, about how best to happiness? I do not know. . . . . .
When the Grand Lamaism How do I kneel before their palms together, I wake up from a loss in turn me. Around the monks were all looked at me expectantly. Secretly take a look at the one sitting at the top of the next Buddha, Buddha solemn, God-ching gas Lang, fortunately does not seem like the face of ferocious law-enforcement who Deity. Xin Nian Road, under the dark, I do not faith in you, but I respect the prayer for you. So, I worship it down, according to Tibetan Buddhist tradition of worship had looked, then looked again thanks to my husband being foot of the mountains, and wish him a speedy recovery.
Out of the temple, large Lama patiently for us about the history of Drepung and was pleased to promise, and I take pictures in the temple before the Golden Summit. To be down, and he accompanied us down the hill slowly, in a fork in the road politely say good-bye. Turned to the occasion, he suddenly stopped me,
"Girl, please remember our Liuzizhenyan - OM do it Padme Hum -"
"Well Well! Must remember -"
Under the guidance of his enthusiasm and I Xiao Xin are loudly repeated several times until he was satisfied smile. All the way down the mountain, still feel his gaze after our sincere and cordial.
Back to Lhasa for almost sunset, the grain abundance to cry out to see the sunset together under the Potala Palace, said to have the most beautiful light. Climb up the west side of Chakpori wait. Through the clouds, a setting sun slowly falls Potala Palace, suddenly Jinding flashing red and white wall covered with Xiaguang, so this stands firmly in the "Sky Palace" is even more solemn mystery. Hurriedly went to the Potala Palace Square, would like to see a positive point of view, unfortunately not seen already Nazhen golden fleeting. Just a moment, the Potala Palace, quickly into the lifeless without the twilight.
Dinner went to the auspicious day for mad cow ate buffet restaurant to watch the singing and dancing performances. After looking up a bar to sit and watch. Asia hotel terrace bar, called DUNYA is the most visible way the entire Beijing-rich Petty Bourgeoisie bar. Inside the elaborately decorated bar melted, and a restaurant of elegance and Tibetan restaurants and strong ethnic flavor. In the darkness, the four of us sat in open-air bar to drink fruit juice chat (unfortunately not drinking). After two days of rest, we have basically adapted to the high altitude can finally lay down their fear of talking and laughing easily.
Listening to the bar where the familiar sounds heard in English song, I felt comfortable and pleasant surroundings. So think we have this group come from the city's "corrupt" elements, in the end unable to escape to the material's preferences and follow the style arty. Someone has described as a lady in Lhasa now. Well, the Asian hotel terrace bar is a stylish lady on the brim of the pearl.
September 19 in Lhasa - when the male
Today, ready to go up along the Qinghai-Tibet Highway north when hung, before decided to take a look at the Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, this most famous buildings. In Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, the Jokhang Monastery, the building size is not large, but its status and influence have come out first, so that other temples can offer. Therefore, the Jokhang Temple in the hearts of followers of Tibetan Buddhism with a unparalleled sacred status of the temple of their hearts.
About Temple Incense smoke, peak and visitors crowd, never out of the two rows of butter lamps enshrined in the Buddhist temple before witnessed afraid to dangerous, fear thousands of miles of pilgrims came to Lhasa and piety. The main Buddhist temple is the Jokhang Temple, which deep dull, dedicated to the Buddha Sakyamuni, the Buddha statues, and Jampa Buddha, measureless Guangfo, Qianshouqianyan Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, etc., as well as numerous gold and silver jewelry from precious materials The Buddhist scriptures such as the town of Thangka Temple treasure. The ancient Buddhist statues placed in between a small room, could only watch through the isolated network. Indoor light is extremely dim. Careful air of different statues of Buddha, or benign countenance, or vicious, in the dim light of the mapping Yingying more crucial under the mysterious and mottled vicissitudes of life, as if history can clearly smell the smell: wet, cold, musty Daidian Er.
Perhaps inspired by me, crystal came a most significant spirits alleged front of the statue of Sakyamuni, the decision to kowtow prayed, for her family far away in thousands of miles away. I have great Drepung Lama in accordance with the instructions told her to knock four times per person, she very seriously begun. Do not know how long before I was standing dark corridors and ancient statues of Buddha between the crystal to see wearing a bright jacket again and again kneel down, stand up to see two sour. When she finally got up and knock heads presented a hada finished, I quietly asked,
"You knock a few in the end?"
She held out the first light replied, "is supposed to knock 8, it may somehow forgot to knock on the count of. Dizzy!"
According to my observation, she at least had a knock of 18. Can be really sincere good!
Buddhist temple is a courtyard-style by turning the outer corridor, making a round of delicate copper Mani endure a circumferential distribution. We learn the appearance of the faithful turn a Mani wheel is also walking. Wooden wheel shaft 10 million times by touching the Youguangzengliang. Turn finished a very long lap, and our hands have been stained with a butter flavor. Along the corridor on both sides of the wall full of painted murals, the way vivid detail, vividly describes the history of the Tibetan Buddhist stories and myths and legends, the highly aesthetic and historical cultural value.
The upper floor, go look at the Jokhang Temple Jinding rainbow consistent, the ultimate luxury fine gold tiles, cornices, beams, relief and so on top of the Temple, decorated brilliant, it is everywhere brilliance. Payable to look at the heavens, is very blue high Shijue have a long swing in the main hall of the Buddhist murals, the long and heavy as if into history. Now, standing in the blue sky under the sun, and then look back to bow their heads around the Buddhist temple courtyard is still turning Changgui people, reminding us of scenes has been a separation of one world.
In the afternoon, we left Lhasa, go north along the Qinghai-Tibet Road. At this point, it really started our long journey on the road.
Near Lhasa section of Qinghai-Tibet Highway repair a new, spacious green asphalt flat, brush with an eye-catching yellow lane marks. Drive too fast, the roadside trees splashed Yang passing from both sides, open the window let the wind in their faces, cool, clean and no dust. Soon, cities and housing fell away behind, and we drive to open the vast wilderness on. Undulating hills in the distance, outlined sweeping the horizon line, a brand-new highway straight to the infinite extension of the Tianjin Tou will be about the earth split into two. As the Qinghai-Tibet Highway is the most convenient to Tibet Highway, the road traffic and a lot of good car because the roads were generally open fast, the wrong car rolled The rush right over. According to Xiao Xin speaking, this section will be the best section of our trip, you can call it "eating way" (an analogy to drive easily, such as a meal?) Only once encountered a closed road if the worse.
Sure enough, in front of the car gradually stopped row on the road, opposite the cars were stopped at a few tens of meters standoff distance. Because of a short road is asphalt can not be before, and from the size of the vehicle can only keep waiting for a long line. Xiao Xin indoor driving around to find a way to start looking around, I guess, according to his character is certainly unwilling to compromise in these few hours. Not surprisingly, when seen on a roadside slope staggered Toyota passing from the opposite side, our cars onto the H-in soon as the heap of stones.
Xiao Xin enjoins us to grasp handrails, the body has started up sharp bumps. Initially felt stimulated, I am excited to think this is down to the excellent off-road jeep show time. Unexpectedly, when shortly after climbing a slope, the laughter has been replaced by screams. Beating in the talus on the car, the car we were so loudly dizzy, rickety, sometimes, the body being thrown up a half-day high, separated a long time before falling, then suddenly being thrown up. Under the hub of the car slopes before the car stopped and Xiao Xin advice: worry, if you can get off slowly. I am eyeballing a moment nearly 30-degree tilt shipo, thinking we are so Guaijiao will be very distracting. As a result, gingerly climbed down.
Carn feet tall lowland walking, watching Xiao Xin calm driving downhill. (With "cool" word because he actually has no facial expressions, perhaps too much focus on it.) Often saw the serious side of the body tilted forward, I am desperately really hard to put his mouth can not scream, the car again in a timely manner to reverse a restore the balance will be passed, see I am scared loud noise mesh tongue. Through this breathtaking scene, we sat down in the car, does not seem so surprising in the beginning. 既来之则安之, Xiao Xin's driving skills are first rate.
Britain hillside for nearly an hour before opening back roads. High-altitude gradually, and we rolled into the vast grasslands when the male. Prairie Chingmei the way to Castle Peak white clouds, blue sky Bicao. White clouds are very thick, lifeless plot in the sky, suppressing a lingering mountains. Mountains covered with green, high altitude mountains covered with snow, with glaciers from the mountains after the slightly exposed silver-white jian, white crystal embedded in the horizon, such as Jade. Wet grassland, dense meadow next to the reddish water color, forming patches of grass pond that reflects the mountains, clouds, blue sky reflection, clear and picturesque. We stop several times into the grass, ride a wet Qingni, smell the taste of soil and grass, watching over a distance Duo black yak grazing leisurely in front of us. 4000 meters above sea level in this piece of grassland on the days and the earth is so harmonious and peaceful, everything seems to already exist millennium, long-lasting change. Those of us back and forth the footsteps of passers-by, fear is already disturbed the silence of the earth. . . . . .
When the male is in a prairie town, 4200 meters above sea level, further north, turn the hill is Namco, and blocks of bungalows arranged on both sides of the road for the past passers-by to provide food and accommodation. End of luggage we settled down to eat. Shouted his companions had a slight headache of altitude sickness, are sitting at the table Kegua Zi. I'm still the easiest one, they go out alone, walking along the road to the mountain side. 2 standing in the road side slope, flat top of the hill, do not see how high. Slope of the green grass has yellowed, the mountainside was falling yellow warmth of the setting sun shining on looks. I am humming a song hidden within walking distance, walking with excitedly happy to climb the slope to try their strength.
"Hey - come home -" Kay anxiously yelled out to me. Back found out that they have out for a long time. Reluctantly been recalled, still feel that excitement, Kay pulled in front of the shop perform the waltz rubble on the ground, singing and turn the ring, so that heaven and earth around us cyclotron. Last Kai screamed "murder pro-Husband" stopped breathing heavily. I played with some of Shi Jue gone too far, and chuckle to accompany him to sit down next to the.
After dinner, the sky is still early, I suggest reverting to watch the sunset when the male prairie. When we returned to grassland and found that this is definitely a good idea, because, under the sunset when the male prairie scenery beautiful!
Car parked in roadbed, I first jumped off a car, down the grass slope to the depths of plagioclase walked. Slope of the deep grass is very long, foot down, as riding in the snow inside. Kay from behind to catch up to pull up my hand.
"Head still hurt?" I turned around and asked.
"Walk like, and I would like to accompany you."
I am grateful to a grip, slow down, and he was walking down together.
To the gradient at its base into the prairie, do not see the slope of the car has had. We are picking up a block of flat, dry grass to sit down quietly hugged the horizon to see the pink clouds fly. Twilight is getting stronger, the sky became dark blue, only the western side of the sky due to sunset and Retention bright. In Phnom Penh trimmed with a bouquet of sunshine from the clouds where revealing fired grasslands, has been an instant golden eyes will be on the meandering prairie river flowing through the light. That gentle winding river, such as the vast silence of the earth mother, Qing Chang's Serenade, Whisper whisper, intoxicated.
Do not know how long before, we did not say anything, as if this moment of silence between heaven and earth can be frozen in time. Reminding us of scenes in front of a dream scenario sound familiar: and wife sat side by side to see prairie sunset. If Yishouqingge Lane sang "I can imagine the most romantic thing to do because you are slowly getting old together, and the 4000 meters high 。。。。。。" grassland quietly reminds me of the" aging ", "considerable period of time," "to long" and other words. Life's joys and sorrows, illness and death, in this broad expanse of heaven and earth has become small and natural. The passage of time, life and persistent, Yong Jie reincarnation, I have no doubt. So, when we got up to leave, I pointed to the distant yak wrote: Perhaps my previous life here, through, perhaps a yak grazing here, because I was so nostalgic and familiar. Kay that is said with a smile, then I would like to be green here.
Another way to become male thing daunting. Slopes toward pilgrims allowed to gaze longingly into the three direction of Lhasa, Zhang Gui trip. They are three steps a call-in one after another, in the gravel covered slopes hard forward. Jokhang Temple where believers in kowtowing We have seen many, but in this wilderness is the first time consistently Zhang Gui. This is What kind of a spiritual force! In particular, the three pilgrims, and yet the two are still children! Them to follow their parents, early to join the ranks of pilgrims, young body suffered camped. I am confused, for children, which in the end is a kind of temper or a destruction? Piety and ignorance, often only one step away ah.
I jumped out of car, facing the fierce mountain winds uphill to the chase. The language barrier, only took out his pocket all the chocolate, beef jerky, stuffed rabbits child's hands. Children raised dark and the face, confused eyes brighter up, revealing a trace of a smile. Leaving, I kept looking back, the three had been standing in the wind shadow beckoning to us until the vision disappeared.
Sat down in the car looking at the mountains of Tibet, Tibet's water, imagine how the billions of years ago, ancient sea turned into the current plateau. The lack of material in this deserted place, the original nature worship has a great power. Tibetans are so worship mountains, worship of water, think that is the incarnation of God, crown of creation. Because nature can not imagine that already have the magic, the miraculous can and change the impossible. Perhaps this is never forgotten Tibet lies its charm.
September 20 when the male - Namco - Yangbajing - Lhasa
When the male 4200 meters high above sea level, so that we could not sleep all night, loses sleep over. The state has always been good and the abundance was finally announced that he also began the plateau reaction, through a terrible sleepless nights.
Morning, we Dousoujingshen to continue over the hill, Namco to go through.
When the male part of the north of Nagqu Qiangtang area.茫茫羌塘富丽壮阔，牛羊肥美，是西藏的主要牧区，景色以山川雄奇，气势非凡著称。从当雄县出发，沿乡村公路行驶不远就开始翻山。依旧是一路的高原牧场。随着海拔的升高，沿路漫岭绵延的群山逐渐披上了银装，更显气势雄伟，赏心悦目。
连绵的雪山就是西藏高原重要的地理分界线－念青唐古拉山脉。主峰念青唐古拉峰高7117米，民间传说居住在山上的念青神是纳木错的保护神，白衣白马，威力极大。纳木错，藏语意为“天湖”。湖面海拔4800米，是西藏最大的湖泊，世界上海拔最高的大湖，也是我国第二大咸水湖。纳木错就在我们正翻越的纳根山口的另一侧。
远远地，就看见垭口上迎风飘扬的风马旗了。据藏人的风俗，在山口，寺庙，岔路，湖边等各处悬挂风马旗，又称经幡，让片片印着宗教图案和经文的布片随风飘扬。风马被认为是沟通神灵的御风使者，能够将祈福，避邪的愿望随风传播到四面八方，使人的精神世界与神灵沟通，使过往众生得到神灵保佑。所以，当在藏区看见五彩的经幡飘扬的时候，就是有人在为你祈祷祝福了。我想，这是荒漠的高原上宗教，信仰和人性的体现。
纳根山口海拔高达5300米，悬挂了特别多的五彩经幡和哈达，周围堆满了大大小小的玛尼堆。车子停在垭口，我爬上飘满经幡的土丘。一阵刺骨寒风立即猛烈扑来，让我几乎无法呼吸。慌忙中见到远处有一抹蓝，是那种属于天上的蓝，好似不小心掉在了地面上，晶莹剔透。于是，我真地无法呼吸了：纳木错，这个此景只应天上有的天湖，这个令我头晕目眩的天湖，在我爬上垭口的瞬间难以置信地摆在了眼前。
回身猛吸几口气，定定神，再转去遥望山口下的纳木错。纯蓝的湖水在天边呈现长长的带状。只是这一抹的蓝色，已经惊心动魄，令我的双眼再也不能离开！车子驶下山口开近湖边的一路，一直痴迷而贪婪地看着它。想起初见泸沽湖时，也曾为那纯净的水色而惊叹。泸沽湖是柔美的，婉约的，秀丽的。但纳木错如此不同！它身躺高原，头顶蓝天，周围是广阔的草原和巍峨的雪山。纳木错是雄伟的，宽广的，壮丽的。
我们沿着湖岸开了很久，一直来到扎西半岛－纳木错湖中最大的半岛。走近岸边，碧波浩渺，惊涛拍岸，象到了海边。对岸是念青唐古拉山脉，白色的山峰连绵起伏，与天边的白云相接，看不清楚是山还是云。有时候，一大片白色的上方，突然冒出雪山的轮廓，那是非常高的山峰，傲然屹立在天地间。我猜想一定是唐古拉山的主峰了，因为只有它才有如此伟岸身姿。
沿着湖岸走，清澈透明的湖水拍打着岩石，涛声阵阵。岸边许多玛尼堆，大小不一，守望着雪山天湖，似有灵性般地伫立，令我联想起石块中所凝聚的无数祈愿，诺言和向往。小心地也垒起了一个自己的玛尼堆，拣一块狭长的石头立在顶部，认真地想许一个心愿。可是，脑中却似空了一样。面对天湖的美丽，我变得木纳不能言语。
风从水面吹来，冷冷地，感觉到空气的清新和稀薄。宽广的纳木错延伸至无限远，好似去了天尽头，一如我梦中天湖的模样，壮丽凄美。
目光搜索同伴们。凯沿湖岸已走了很远，正在一堆石头中间摆弄着什么。晶端着她的小摄像机对准湖面自言自语地又拍又录。丰则坐在岩石上捧着头喘气，好象高原反应开始发作。小辛是最忙碌的一个，把心爱的车开到水边，拎起小桶，“为他的老婆洗脸”。我们总是笑小辛爱车如爱老婆，现在用了天湖至纯至净的水来清洗，就更加光彩照人了。
我坐上水边的岩石，仔细地看海浪般的湖水潮起潮落。水清至蓝，无以伦比。忽然萌发一个念头，想试一试这水的滋味。于是，捧一掬湖水到手掌心，无色透明冰凉；喝一口，淡淡的没有咸味。虽然纳木错是咸水湖，但湖水已被雪山融水冲淡了，所以如此清澈透明。
纳木错，这个世界海拔最高的大湖，既使我已走进它，触摸它，喝过它，仍然感觉恍恍惚惚如梦中游。很想就此住在岛上过几天，观日月星辰，观潮涨潮落，看每一刻不同的光线下的天湖都有不同的景致，都会令人惊叹。可惜下午我们就离去了。丰和凯的高原反应渐重，头痛欲裂。原路返回。驶过垭口的时候，再次回望天边的那一抹蓝。
再会！天湖，你那令人震撼的美丽。
返回拉萨途中经过著名的地热景观－羊八井温泉。好好地进去腐败了一把。很远就看见地热升腾起的阵阵雾气，象有朵云飘在地上。走下温泉游泳池，把自己浸在微烫的泉水中。泳池上方开了个很大的天窗，阳光和冷风从窗口泻下，使空气流通呼吸顺畅。阳光射下的光柱中，会看到水面的热气袅袅地聚成一线螺旋上升，直飘出屋外的蓝天和青山。泡在这个世界最高的地热温泉中，真是舒适而奇妙的经历。
夜回拉萨，仍入住八朗学。经过两天的奔波，我们已又累又饿，好吃好睡一晚。
作者：zhangy_s
