May 2001 westbound Diary
Feng, F, 56-year-old diary, "public" that is my husband, 58 years old; this year, May 8 -6 10 day self-service travel Woliang way home departure from Ningbo to the motherland, Tibet, Xinjiang , Shaanxi and other places around in a circle, the Sichuan-Tibet line into Tibet, the Qinghai-Tibet line-out possession, running the whole process of these two roads, the road passes Shanghai (referring to stay off), Chengdu, Kangding, Litang, Batang, Markam, Bomi, 81, Lhasa, Yamdrok Lake, Gyantse, Lazi, Mount Everest, Tingri, camphor, Dunhuang, Turpan, Urumqi, Tianshan Heavenly Lake, Xi'an, Yan'an, Hukou Waterfall, Mountain, etc. and traveled 15,000 kilometers, which lasted 33 days, to commemorate the trip, note that this diary.
Originally and preparation: 2000 5,6 months, Woliang went to Yunnan, Guizhou, Sichuan, Hunan and other places self-tour, he went to Zhongdian, audience over the beautiful Meili Snow Mountain in touch with the Tibetan people, feel the Tibetan Buddhism Heaven and Man, nature and people blend the kind of special atmosphere, causing our strong desire to Tibet in 2001, the Spring Festival, was finally determined to have an audience known as the world's third pole of Everest.
Of the two months time, through online, the book of reference, compiled a hundreds of thousands of words of information booklets, covering Tibet Guide, Tibet tour routes and prices, local altitude, diet accommodation, hotel prices, Tibetan Buddhism, Tibet, Jie Chao major temples, landmarks and landscape and other parts of Tibet; to adapt to mountain sickness, adhere to physical activity every day, Ge Jitian conscious to go over 10 miles to a friend's house and go out shopping Yi Gai walking; prepared a mountain bags, sleeping bags, sneakers, windbreaker, emergency commodities, all kinds of commonly used drugs; ready to endure hardship, to meet the ideological and psychological preparations for mountain sickness.
2001 Nian 5 Yue 7 Ri (Xingqi Yi) ready to go the coveted trip to Tibet will become the line of the total, the public bought in Shanghai April 28 - May 8 Chengdu, more than 7 points lying on the evening of tickets bought at the same time, Ningbo - Shanghai 5 on at 8:13 on the 8th of train tickets available at 3 pm more than Shanghai.
Today, luggage collated a large public hiking back pack, inside sleeping bags, clothing, emergency supplies, medicines and so on, my little mountaineering bag, which is a portable replacement clothing and sporadic daily.
Small paste show: Shanghai - Chengdu fare 483 yuan / Zhang fee 10 yuan / Zhang,
Ningbo - Shanghai fare 27 yuan / Zhang.
5 Yue 8 Ri (Xingqi Er) morning departure scheduled for 6:00 to get up, the results of wrong part-time, 5:45 as 6:45 am, rush to get up until all parties can contribute anything, it was found just arrived 6:30 am, than at home stations, etc., etc., 6:45 am, the two freshman back a small package was finally starting two climbers.
The train on time out, because after a 51 holiday, people do not squeeze the car, but after Yuyao station, the car appeared in the person standing no seats.
We ranked a total of six seats, in addition to my two, another four in Ningbo, one of which is to leave 40 years, living and working in Beijing, has never been back to hometown of Ningbo, Ningbo, a trip, this time to take back home to visit relatives, by the way Suzhou, Wuxi, Hangzhou, Shanghai, Putuo a tour; while a person is Shangyu Montagnards, in the Shanghai Songjiang, Jinshan petrochemical plant workers, 37 years old, simple, but love to talk with people to talk about his working experience and so on. The people are very eager to learn, although not graduated from elementary school, but by diligent self-study, can speak good Mandarin, people are enthusiastic to bring home to us the Shinshu Shaoxing molded dried vegetable taste, along the way talked and smiled, seven and a half part-time quickly in the past, the train arrive at 3:44 pm Shanghai Station. We Gangchu station, we again entered the waiting room, waiting for the evening 7:50 pm to Chengdu sleeper.
Shanghai stop facilities good, free toilets, free supply of water, bubble tea, a glass of tea, eat three meat brown, dinner also solved.
5 Yue 9 Ri (Xingqi San) to Shanghai to Chengdu, sleeping car break lights on a 10-point last night, about 11 more sleep, sleep well, wake up six in the morning is a good weather. After a train the morning of Luoyang, Zhengzhou and other major stations monotonous scenery outside the window, and last year's trip to Zhongdian Mo Fabi scenery along the way, when the snow-capped mountains, grasslands, clouds, mountains of Chun Ling turns, usually Xiansuoweijian, that will not be tired However, in front of the window, land radiate a yellow and more crops are not so green that we Jiangnan, monotonous more.
Breakfast eat two boiled eggs, a half-apple, hungry stomachs at noon, the train on the lunch box of 15 yuan of money, your great, and the quality is not good without food, the public buy a package dried bean curd, and then on the Under the Jiuchi peanuts, after a bowl of rice among the fast surface. Dinner is bought at the station along the route, the price is more fair.
The train is very clean, no disappointments, that is not tired.
5 Ri Yue 10 (Thursday) Chengdu, more than 10 points last night to sleep 6:45 am wake up, sleep well, the public has to get up an hour.
10:45 the train pulls into the station in Chengdu. When the train, with carriages, a young man, about 26 seven years old, named Huang Lei, Zhejiang Quzhou people stationed in Tibet, Shigatse, Chengdu office, take the initiative to contact telephone left us and told us they approached him, He as much as possible to help, it is we were impressed. Does not necessarily looking for him, but a kind of hometown love, and good people everywhere, the feeling was very good, gives rise to a good state of mind, which is very important that tourism.
Chengdu is also under urban renewal construction, some houses built too high and covers an area of getting bigger, (Ningbo, high Fusazo high, it covers an area of up and down similar to coastal land is probably too expensive), but the new the layout of the house seemed to be no unified planning, less tidy and beautiful, not as Hangzhou, Ningbo and other cities, has great attention to long-term planning of urban construction and the overall landscaping.
At the station immediately outside the south gate take up a new bus station bus. In the new South Gate bought the station the next morning's bus ticket Batang 8:00 to go (as far as only to Batang). I am in the waiting room guarding baggage, the public went to find nearby hotels, brought back the message is: There are standard hotel rooms, a 90 yuan, while the next station, guest houses, two human 60 yuan, bathing in a special bathroom, we saw Although the facilities badly (no phone, TV 12-inch), but very clean, there is a drying grounds, can I wash my clothes to dry on the spot, without hesitation chose the latter, I told the main desk and asks for a further discount point (due to high season is over and business is not very good), agreed to float downward 10 yuan, 50 yuan, double rooms, very affordable. Attendants for both of us opened a bathroom, I wash my bath, I wash my clothes, cool out, the teach you the nearby road. Finally strolls along the market, Sichuan deserves to be called the "Land of Abundance", to eat are many and cheap, 14 yuan a Beijing roast duck, but also with a good soup, breakfast cereals, pizza, and paint slurry, a very cost-effective, and buy hotels, the United States and the United States The feast, Chengdu really good.
Small paste show: Chengdu - a bus ticket Batang 230 RMB / person
5 Yue 11 Ri (Xingqi Wu) Chengdu - Kangding bus get up at 6:00 today at the station the train after the door to eat noodles, shuttle 8:00 time out, car was empty.
Driving the Tibetan (who lives in Kangding) young man, the way you drive too fast, and Chengdu - are a good way to Litang cement road, in addition to two Long Hill has a large landslide roads in repair, no matter how good along the way are all However, the road.
The road from Chengdu to Ya'an are highway, over mountain climbing after Yaan, climb the two Long Hill, the car the more climb, the better the scenery and see snow-capped mountains, and there is one, in which a particularly high, snow - snow white, I heard that is folded mountainous (tomorrow we're going to climb over mountainous fold). Lang began crossing two mountain tunnels, there is two kilometers long and two rows of shining light inside the cave, the car inside the cave, open hole in front of a very beautiful letter.
Turn the two Long Hill, car down the hill running, mountain reed is fixed, the Tibetan driver drove like a de-chiang's Mustang, and we all sat in the car unstable side of this road is the Dadu River, one side is the mountain, thanks to road is very flat.
"Lu will bridge" a great reputation, bridge is very old, is the Suspension Bridge.
After a reed established, went straight to the terminus of today - Kangding. Snow-capped mountains receding into the past, one into the Kangding city end of the street to see over the hills of snow cap off, the original a few days here, down the snow has accumulated more than a foot thick, no wonder the hills of snow are not just here also particularly cold days, I quickly add Chuanleyifu to avoid a cold.
It is worth mentioning that, in the car, ran into a small group who lives in Yajiang of Kham, 21, two years old, in Sichuan province Lijiang (Lijiang, Yunnan is not) statistics class to attend secondary school graduation, to go home to find a job . Fellow long quite in handsome, singing and dancing, is the school's cultural minister, my mother has been more than 70 years old, he was the youngest of seven children, and parents reluctant to let him go outside, ready to Kangding to find a job, all the way quite affectionate with us, called Wolia uncle, aunt, dinner in his familiar open a restaurant in Chongqing fried extra dishes, the amount of feet, Ye Hao taste. Young man could be home tomorrow at noon.
5 Yue 12 Ri (Xingqi Liu) Kangding - Litang Kangding is the seat Windy City, walking in the streets, the wind kick into gear, and even the toilet like a storm in the hotel kiosks in the morning on the toilet, I put sweater, windbreaker wore .
Kangding is a canyon-shaped mountain, a river from the city are mid-stream before, the city's main street is divided into two and a half walk from the street side of the side street shall be the bridge, two bridges crossing the river on the street, building very pretty; outside the city and both sides are mountains, so much like the city of Kangding corridor, which explains the strong winds, low temperature and causes.
Kangding is a traffic intersection, extending in all directions.
Last night, Tibetans live in a small room together with us (otherwise he will be a person sleeps three human, or fight with others to live, and we feel that he did not quite fit, let him sleep in our room, anyway, a 3 bed, also did not cause illness), talked about many of his situation.
Fellow Daming Yang five-rich, small Mingjiaozhaxi. His home is a big family, my mother a generation has seven brothers and sisters, he and I had seven brothers and sisters. Dad did not Buddhist devotees (his grandfather could be Han, last name, may be brought about Grandpa, he just felt, but did not asked the mother), my mother, as ordinary Tibetans, Buddhist devotees, my mother would not let him drink, for fear he sprinkle the accident outside drinking, small group to listen to his mother, then do not drink, but smoke.
He said the mother was the most diligent of local people, in addition to village's orchards, on a number of his family's orchards and the biggest mother for the whole family (up and down a total of more than 60 persons would now dispersed to live) in silence dedication, he was quite filial piety, he Mom, talk about her mother went to Chengdu, a lifetime is only once, in the car, others were wearing sleepy, except his mother eyes staring out the window, a blink; he was talking about a second school essay entitled "My Mom, "he usually less essay-like, this essay was read by the teacher in the classroom, the teacher and remembered and remembered, he was unable to control himself, V to the table, tears, writing finished, the whole class (including the teacher) cried, and felt drawn, his mother deep feelings, and respectfully.
To school four years for the national school enrollment, students throughout the country have, and some students leave to travel, play, he felt that travel with the hard-earned money at home whose consciences are moved, apart from Chengdu, nor ran outside, he wanted to After read the University, and so the idea of the future to find a job after school. This brings me has become increasingly discouraged and like this Tibetan guy.
Tonight live in Litang, Litang is the world's highest-altitude town (4,300 meters), is a test of our reaction to the altitude of the first mark, I do not know whether the diary at night, and now only 6:00 more, first write these .
8 points more, a Yutong Bus set, we embarked on the North Korea Litang (the original, after the car into the back of Kangding, and for a car) from Kangding to Litang, in the middle to bring up that several mountains: folded mountainous , Tar Hill, scissors curved mountain, karaoke sub-mountain, the mountain road winding around the disk drive, each to the highest point of a mountain (referring to Peak Highway), then the marked elevation, mountainous fold 4298 meters, 4470 meters Tar Hill, scissors curved mountain 4659 meters, 4767 meters Kara shan, of course, the peak of these mountains is not to this altitude.
To Tar Hill in the fold between the more mountainous peaks, where the two world snow, the Peak are all white peak. Drive to the Peak, Xuefeng crouched around you, it is spectacular; while scissors curved Peak to Peak, son of Carla, the top of the hill is the endless grasslands, large pole, which is snow-capped mountains on the Pak Mong pastures should not be compared , but we went to last year, when the snow-capped mountains Pak Mong already in June, flowers, lush, very beautiful, it is here at this time can not compare.
12-point leads to the elegant River Station, get off Kangba small group, his sister, brother to pick him out of station, this goodbye, good guy, I wish you a long life in the future on the road, all the best.
In Yajiang ate a bowl of noodles (5 yuan 2 bowl), this time a little pain first. Here, probably, nearly 4000 meters above sea level, until 5:00 more, vehicles are open to Litang. Litang is a mountain surrounded by a Pingba, elevation is high, the city gate on end an arch, a letter to "the world's highest city", Litang elevation of 4,300 meters, is the world's highest town.
Arrival, the male a splitting headache, on the Station, found a private hotel room, 30 yuan a night in the hotel opposite the Sichuanese restaurant to eat dinner, eat a piece painkillers as soon asleep. I feel like better, adhere to finish today's diary.
5 Yue 13 Ri (Xingqi Ri) Litang - Litang, Batang special cold to bring all the clothes are put on, not enough for the cold. 7:00, he drove out of Litang, Litang can be seen everywhere around the peaks, the highest mountain Hengduan Mountains - Gongga Mountains (known as the King of Shu) in the mountain peaks stretching outside the city periphery, very majestic, this Litang also explains why so cold.
Litang out about two hours less than the black surface has come to an end, the rest of the so-called National Road to the Batang line, all Shashi Lu, there are a lot of bumps and hollows, with yesterday's road Mei Fabi, 13:00 to Batang.
Headache happened, Batang of people say that only places where landslides had before climbing, but climbing is very dangerous, or would be diverted into Tibet, we did not give up, followed by two individual co-pack a small car (100 yuan), our sent to the Department before the Jinsha River bridge collapse, the driver if they had refused to take us across the bridge, saying that the bridge there is a Tibet, Sichuan's car can not be over. Then came a group of local Tibetans Wai that can take us climb over the landslides Department, the same car come a fat monk, after a conversation with the locals, decided to divert into Tibet, we are hand in hand with the Tibetans, they 3 guy tomorrow morning to take us climb over the cave Department (to ensure that our absolute safety), price of 200 yuan.
There are no hotels, restaurants, night wizard had to stay home. Tibetans here is still very simple, and did not want us plus the money, but also told us the way to eat instant noodles Retention, invited us to eat butter tea with his family tsampa. Wizard to build a new home in the house, his family was not rich at home apart from beds, tables and chairs, nothing, and we will have to spend the night at the.
Three generations of Tibetans live in a family house, there are three children, the smallest is still feeding, the largest six-year-old, in the middle of a 5-year-old. 6-year-old girl grown very clever, led the five-year-old sister, hungry, and entered the room to drink yak butter tea, eat tsampa, eat, and went out to play. Also did his own laundry, take a basin, marked with water, rubbing soap once, over second time in water, washed with eyebrow has eyes, but wear their own clothes washed the same as confused as also did not say, cool out of clothes but not washed with the same dirty. Dinner, a talent burned rice, two fried dishes, two little girls to have to distinguish between dark and come home for dinner five fingers, so it really was not adult children was raised, but his grown up. No wonder, Tibet reading difficult, only the county have school, primary school, have to leave home boarding, seven, eight, children have to own a large dishes themselves, which, as we have here, some children, the family pet was not, to the high school, has no independent life skills, it is doing harm to him.
Wizard family had no toilet, in fact the whole village is not a toilet, you can open defecation (of course, have to pick pick the number of places), because here was a relatively low altitude, high temperature steam, but also dry toilet a sow, immediately dry, the toilet on the omitted.
Night is a small carpenter his bed give us.
4:30 tomorrow morning ready to start, I heard that after a landslide Department, there will have to Mang Kang's car, I hope so.
5 Yue 14 Ri (Xingqi Yi) climb over the landslide Kang Mang ride out today is the most difficult and most dangerous section of the road, because we are through the cave area, from the Sichuan-Tibet line into Tibet.
4:00 am prosperous years, the wizard's wife get up early to begin steaming steamed bun, beat butter tea, and she side Manghuo Zhao, mouth still remembered by the non-stop, I immediately get up, can help to help her as he looked at her beat butter tea: boil a big pot of water to be filled with tea and cake, mesh bag into the pot about, remove and bag, then pour into the butter and tea, a special apparatus, the disc holding a pole with the following , forced the pound, pound, after well and pour into the pot, drinking butter tea all day, is well positioned. Just do a good job of buttered tea thick, much like milk, which is a high-energy foods, prevention and treatment of mountain sickness is very good, I might have had a point as far as possible.
Nearly 5:00, we start. 3 Tibetan and Chinese, very robust, a back of our backpack, two hiking specifically to protect us. 2 guy, either side of, and sometimes pull a last look at my hand, two pairs of strong legs wrapped the foot of the rocks in the mountain landslides road construction, where there is no way the road is that they stepped out.
The wizard's hand from beginning to end never left my hand, people always in my bottom, like a barrier, anti-slip feet if I can block me, I do not know how, I told him there is a strong sense of trust, it is so climb nearly two part-time, when, from the cliff over a boat, seems to be accompanied by an appointment with the villagers last night, and so that we can have less dangerous to climb a short way. After the board with the wizard farewell, even though more than 40 yuan out of the boat line, I am still very grateful for these few simple Tibetans, after all, they helped us through this insurmountable risk road from Sichuan to send us into Tibet.
After landslides Office, witnessed the collapse site, this cave is very powerful, a large number of landslides debris Teluk cliff under the Jinsha River, the river weir this plug, the river rose five or six meters, the boat had been drowning in the water under the road side when I saw telegraph poles only one meter above the surface the proposed projects, and the collapse is still ongoing, it had to collapse at the top of the other to open new roads, rescue the Tibetan Bomi road transport detachment of armed police to restore traffic seems to have to more than two months.
As the cave road, all the vehicles can only be parked away from the nearly ten-mile outside the cave at a place called "hot spring" in place, can no longer come in, so too has completed this section of track to ride. Luckily encounter road forces vehicles, will be willing to bring us to the spa. After I discovered the hot springs to Markam car these days is very difficult to take, in addition to force car, very few cars come here. Can not do so on strike, we had to carry a heavy backpack, walking can take the car to find. I have secretly made up his mind, no matter what car, see the car had stopped, this task was mainly to take up for me because I am a woman, there are a certain age, hailed easier. Gone nearly half an hour, followed by opening to a Jeep, I had stopped up, this is a sitting Deputy Director of Logistics and rescue unit in carrying out search task of picking up the car, the car has been sitting four people, began to They said had been filled with people, we say little hard to take the car here, they see that we are one people, age is also too big a word, told us to squeeze a squeeze had increased. This car is going Mang Kang, indeed, flattery of the.
There are four people on board a military promotion officer, also a journalist, is sent to rescue the situation, deputy political commissar of view, the heads of old, can not climb mountains, he risked his life, from the collapse of the river the surface of the river by boat to send heads, This is very dangerous, above the stone could fall at any time. This way, I realized, emergency road repair, road building, and our armed police traffic officers and men are paid a lot of.
We chatted with reporters on board together, he called Hao Ya-Ming, is a People's Armed Police Corps Information Office, the traffic, I heard that after retirement, with such self-help forms of tourism to Tibet, very impressed, to give us photo after Mang Kang Chang like, prepared to write articles to promote our troops on a kind of spirit and each other to stay with us the address and telephone number.
Reporter in the car told us a few complaints about military matters, is usually difficult to hear the sound directly from the troops, it is worthy of some ink to be recorded.
First, the Jinsha River landslides, road rescue as the main force that is armed and transportation forces, those soldiers continuous hard work, night, sleep five - six hours, but also risk their lives, the way most of the Sichuan-Tibet line is very dangerous, those roads Most of their repair, they pay a lot, but usually there are many people (including the original to us) does not understand in this. Nu River bridge in repair, because of riverside rugged and mountainous terrain, raging river, they have a platoon of troops all died in there, the bridge Xiucheng, this row only a platoon leader of a person is still alive, the platoon leader can not really stand This is a huge sorrow, he did not leave his comrades, on the bridges where a river to die, to follow his comrades away, and now the Nu River Bridge, next to the inscription a Yahua: a soldier a river, that is painting, he How tragic!
Second, in Sichuan, Yunnan, Tibet, at the junction, some time ago there was a small consistent bandits, robbing passers-by, in order to maintain the rule of this party-an, to clear the consistent bandits, armed police and transportation forces operations several times, but it is very cunning bandits are rushed to empty. The results in sealed trucks disguised as ordinary people's car in front, drawing the snake out of its hole, followed by the distance along with every other segment of armed vehicles, on the spot this consistent bandits eliminated, Recently was able to peace.
Third, they force has an old head, in Tibet did three or four decades, through their old age, his cardiovascular high above sea level because of the long-term place to live no longer suitable living environment for low-altitude home, troops had to He came in higher elevations by Zhongdian through their old age, who heads the body has been looking from another secondary blood, but he had him a pair of children, then sent to Tibet, Tibet is a special person willing to sacrifice .
Hao Ya-Ming, not without emotion that it should be properly respect our transport soldiers, this is a group of very worthy of respect, I have resonated from inside the heart.
Morning 10:20 am, bus to Mang Kang, who told us all the way treasure, broke up with us.
We went to town, but the wrong direction, taking nearly half an hour, I discovered that was wrong, and went back roadside barracks, would like to inquire about the situation points on the inside of her surprise, there is a dog up, bitten shallow two teeth marks, thanks to soldiers in time out, solution of the Circuit, and get alcohol poisoning I disappeared, but fortunately there is no rabies in Tibet, no big problem.
PM did not wait to go Basu, Banda, Bomi direction of the car, live Mang Kang, live weather bureau Guest House, double room, 30 yuan, a hot water wash to get the room.
Kilometers of altitude sickness worse than I, Mang Kang are 3900 meters above sea level, with almost Lhasa, public headache tablets of painkillers after dinner to eat a lot, and I do not feel anything, note the finished today's diary.
5 Yue 15 Ri (Xingqi Er) got on to the Bomi Kang Mang car to be safe, last night, or went to Mang Kang's county hospital, like an injection to prevent rabies vaccine, talk with a Tibetan doctor, she said, We do not plateau of rabies, there is no such vaccine, I packed a bit, the confiscation of my money, where did our side of the busy hospital, but doctors unpaid answer your questions and to serve you, but it is there that we a rare demonstration of simple folk customs here.
Today up early again at the intersection (Note this: Where all from the Yunnan-Tibet, Sichuan-Tibet Highway to Lhasa over direction of the vehicle must pass through the fork junction) wait can reach the car, waited for more than two part-time, no cars. Listen to the roadside hotel proprietress, said many of the original car here because of landslides has resulted in far fewer cars. Bomi originally heard goods vehicles transported the troops to return to Bomi, it is our ideal, Baba's waiting, but also not see video. In Tibet and other ride on the issue this way, be patient. The pace of life here is slow tempo. Cross-street intersection Sichuanese couple opened a family restaurant, that restaurant boss is a little bit, "Sha Jia Bang" where Aunt aqing of style, regardless of whether you eat in her shop, accommodation, she let you in her shop sitting, waiting for a train, or even tea, all coming off anyway.
Mang Kang is a small town, as we have one side of town, which is the Sichuan-Tibet line to Tibet's first stop is located in Sichuan, Yunnan, Tibet provinces junction is a traffic arteries, is the Sichuan-Tibet, Yunnan-Tibet highway into Tibet must be passed through. Here has been completely Tibetan style, you can see the typical red bunker-style Tibetan homes, air drying, sky blue, far-sighted, surrounded by mountains full of ups and downs of the clay.
8:00 more, there is a large Pakistani Deqin bound for Lhasa from the car and all Tibetan people, to discuss with the driver and promised 200 yuan / person price, so Wolia ride to Bomi, which finally relax for the next, Since the post-collapse, where the car is difficult to take.
Car in the 9:30 am from Mang Kang out via Zogang to Banda, late at 7:30, just here to eat dinner.
Banda addition to Lhasa in Tibet, the only county with the airport, because Banda has a very large one plateau grasslands, is a natural airport, so the repair of an airport here.
After dinner, the night they drove, until less than a point of the Nu River Bridge, a small of villages have been more than 12-point night, the driver prepared to spend the night here. It was a chartered vehicles, the car is sitting Diqing Autonomous Prefecture, Weixi County, some of the township cadres, made a special trip to go on a pilgrimage in Lhasa, which Tibetan Tibetan compatriots have brought enough luggage, dry food, opened the luggage slept in street under the eaves, suffered several of our ride, and on the bin a few hours sleep in the car.
Ride in addition to Woliang, there are two college students are walking tourism, one in Nanjing, has gone four months, the other (forget where people) have been gone for nine months, are quite difficult , but go to Lhasa, too difficult, time does not allow, but also had to ride.
5:00, cars went on the road, the quality of Chinese-made cars are always badly, ran into part-time, you have to stop to instrument the burst. The Tibetans are Buddhist devotees, holding prayer beads while chanting, while counting the beads, he saw snow-capped mountains, often pious roar heard, in no hurry do not complain, treat people very polite, always handed us something to eat.
Mang Kang to Banda no boom, mountains are the loess mountains, skin graft well, so it would slide. Mang Kang out soon climb the highest mountain in the Sichuan-Tibet line, the East Zida Mountain (5780 meters), due to high mountains, climb when swirling on the bend 99 was said to have set the ceiling, that might be an argument However, a full crawl for nearly two hours, cars crossed the mountain before.
At the Nu River Bridge has opened, the days still black, told reporters at the Bridge, did not see the photograph of the rock art is indeed very regrettable. See, however, there are soldiers guarding the bridge to prevent the costly destruction of this bridge.
Guo Nu River Bridge, the elevation and high up, snow-capped mountains in batches, noon to Ran Wuhu, elevation 4,000 meters have been around. Tibet's tourism Ran Wuhu is our first major attraction, indeed well-deserved reputation, very beautiful. Rawu is a dammed lake, is a mountain lake, green lake, back whole placed on the high snow-capped mountains, snow-capped mountains reflection in the lake, very beautiful; lake Qinglie, and because it is snow, but cold, drank a few mouthfuls of , it is like pure water.
Rawu to Bomi, beautiful scenery along the road on both sides of the mountains, lush, from time to time you can see gorgeous mountain azalea. Nearly four points, bus to Bomi. Cong Juli drill out Wolia is already dust Park Park.
Bomi, Tibet can be considered as has been seen so far the most decent one county, but also clean. According to online Jie Chao, find postal guest houses, two rooms, 50 yuan a night, very comfortable, not far from the bathroom into a bath, 5 yuan / person.
The comfort of a bath, changed clothes inside and out, I wash my cool out, the street bought a yak meat back to the hotel, a hearty meal, feeling it easier than ever. Bomi, elevation 2300 meters, neither cold nor hot, weather is very pleasant, very little southern flavor to the play tomorrow, be properly prepared to stay here for two days.
5 Yue 17 Ri (Xingqi Si) Tour Bomi Gangxiang online search data that Gangxiang special scenic beauty so Gangxiang is our second stop sites.
7:00 more to go out into the street inquire about the situation, or car. The result: Gang Xiang (where the country's largest virgin forest nature reserve, with the country's largest forest) side of the road is poor, three cards can not be opened, and only able to open Jeep to the forest about 20 kilometers, package Jeep 150. Then there are cars up three cards scrape together, saying that he had not been Gangxiang, but willing to try a trip (where three cards are not willing to go to Gang Xiang, roads bad, full of uneven, undulating am a large narrow mountain Moreover, the middle of the stream but also mobility, people struggling not say if car breaks down, the trouble), said that far better able to take us on how far the price they are reasonable, we can by himself 'll have to see. Of course, we are preparing in case vehicles can not walk into the mental preparation.
Along the road is bad, but the scenery perfect in the morning cloudy, and sometimes there is light rain, Bomi outside the city is full of peaks, while below the mountain is green luxuriant virgin forest. The foot of the cloud continued to rise, mountain halfway line as a transverse band-like clouds with a belt, the peak of peaks looming in the clouds, like a fairyland in the Qionglouyuyu; way more and more difficult to open, the driver finally unwilling to move forward, took the money back to 25 yuan, and we had to find their own path, when about 9 o'clock, with people one inquiries, to the forest there are more than 10 miles on the road is the good news is Gangxiang see the scenery along the way, we intended to come to 12 o'clock, we back off to ensure that the same day returned to the hotel.
Along the way to go Gangxiang Palongzangbu River (a major tributary of the Brahmaputra) extends deep into the hills, and naive to help the sun come out occasionally, and sometimes some kind of light rain fog does not affect the viewing, but even more by charm . Sometimes, only the shine on a mountain Ah Dawn at a group of snow-capped mountains, making the snow-capped mountains where the revealing light, showing the layers, as semi-sky days, the door opened, people have a sense of carried away; path is lined with Misty cage cage bushes, trees with flowers, and sometimes you can see verdant tropical Monstera kind of plants (with Note: After returning home in an article in the know that because of the Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon Wind gallery effect tropical monsoon is blowing along the gorge, so that subsequent extension of tropical plants here), is incredible.
Suddenly, in front of the roadside along the river suddenly see the light, showing a green grass, the grass there is a tree, layout density delivered, a natural park, the Tibetan children to play in this natural garden; Garden was surging forward to the edge of the famous Pallon zangbo River, the river is very clear steep, underwater pebbles seen very clear, light blue color the river green, such a beautiful river in our country probably deserves consideration of; river across the rows of Cong Long Green trees, picturesque; Suddenly Jiang Shan, on two pairs of green sloping fields, coupled with the Peak snow cap, the foot of misty mist, the spitting image of Shangri-La paradise on earth ... live ...
Good scenery along the river, then it makes your head do not ya just feel that people should not have been more easily relaxed, and unknowingly walked noon 11:30 pm, we babble in a clear steep side streams on the stream, eating a block hard tack, two sausage, lunch on the kill: the times like this, spiritually immortal kind of enjoyment, the body has to endure hardship.
12 points more, and we set foot on Return Journey, the beautiful scenery so that we forget that love, innocence immediately re-meng, par riverside green space along the way to go all the way to play, hit the road very few people, occasionally a few Tibetan children with us, watching the adults play, and am very curious strike. Pa riverside pebbles in the heap, a stone attracted me, and reflected in the water stone, a clear and lovely little footprints, step on a stone a week around the white line, I put it down, must put it back home to go, this stone is a symbol of our across Tibet, in Tibet, footprints left by then.
Was filled in a white streamer with the bridge, hard to come by to discuss God got a real Mani stone, palm-sized piece of large boulders, the middle of the Buddha carved into a symbol, a symbol of the Buddha in mind, surrounded by a circle inscribed Tibetan, which is a big Buddhist mantra, the equivalent of the Han Buddhism, Nam-Ami Tuo meaning of the Buddha (I do not understand Tibetan, not sure), probably destined strike me with the Buddha, I am very careful to pack several layers of clothes , pious home, Buddha will always be high according to my home.
Back to the Bomi County, have been 4:00 o'clock, saw sunset snow-capped mountains, the morning did not feel that the United States, today, to do feet-sheng, a full left San Shili road, but also to play a dedication.
5 Yue 18 Ri (Xingqi Wu) to the 81 towns (Linzhi location)
Take today's Beijing Jeep, 8:00 out Bomi to Bayi Town.
Cars on the street looking for. 7:00 am more in the street there are a lot of the direction of the car to Bomi, is where the Cou people. There's Jeep vehicles to Bomi just bad two individuals, let us catch, and price 100 / person.
5 passengers on board, in addition to all Tibetans Wolia things, a driver who is also in the vicinity Yigong passengers there was a row of dragon lives in the Tibetan youth, called the measures blue, special secondary school students, a student of accounting, last year routed to Bomi County, according to Economic Commission of dollars of work is still in the probationary period, because fellow, I shall now have a common language. Students came from the younger generation, what are talking about, through the he understood that a number of relevant elements of national culture Chan:
1, the "Kanjur", "Danzhuer" It's two great Tibetan Buddhism, Buddhist writings, recording what? He said that two large forward, one account of content is related to the history of human development, the evolution of history and so on; another is the nature of prophecy writings, such as what the future will be what age events.他举个例，说里面早就预言，20世纪90年代是瓷器时代，人人都会用上瓷器，这一预言是言中了的；再如这二部的其中一部有关科学的记载方面，有有关枪支、电筒、电视机等结构、制造方法等内容，当时的藏族是非常落后的，这些记载不知是怎么来的，所以藏传佛教有神秘的地方，值得研究。
2， 有关天葬，小伙子向我们介诏，在天葬时，专门有解尸的人，把尸首解开，主持仪式的喇嘛念动经文并吼叫，那些天葬台周围的鹰就会飞过来吃尸体，如果是一具有毒的尸体，要等喇嘛吃第一口，它们才吃，那些鹰就象喇嘛养的一样，很听他的指挥，喇嘛象是用一种什么方法跟它们沟通。小伙子就此向我说，古时，藏族喇嘛先辈中，有专门研究鸟兽动物语言的，他能懂它们所有的语言，能互相沟通，后来失传了，天葬时喇嘛与鹰是否属于这种行为，尚不得知。
八一到波密的路是川藏公路上最险的一段路，其中通麦附近至排龙随时会塌方、滑坡，被称为通麦天险、川藏线上的百慕大。今天的司机是一个天胆地大的小伙子，又是易贡人，熟悉这段路况，我们到通麦时，看到了经常滑坡处有很大的扇面状滑坡，直落下面的帕隆藏布江，滑坡扇面拦腰处又修出新路，修的路很窄，弯弯曲曲的绕着滑坡面过去，只能通一辆车，两车很难交汇，真不知道这些司机是怎么开的车。这里年年滑坡，年年修路，碰上雨季，就难以通畅。措青说，一到雨季，她妈就担心，叫他千万别回家。
糟了，就在这险道上抛锚了一辆大货车，前后两头各堵着几辆车，只有耐心等待，我们都下车等在路边，一边看江边的景色。所有司机等在那里，没人敢冒生命危险从悬崖上擦车而进。我们的司机却一人擦着那抛锚车，贴着路的外沿，居然开过去了；别的司机人好，他叫让路，那些司机尽量给他让出些路来，这是很值得我们这里的司机学学的。
司机在车旁向我们招手，示意我们从车缝钻过去，抛下那堆车，我们的北京吉普又上路了，司机一路放声高唱藏族情歌，显得很得意。
藏族学生的哥就在排龙乡政府工作，如果要去大拐弯峡谷，就得在这儿下车，措青邀我们上他哥家坐坐，喝了奶茶，这是我入藏喝到最好喝的奶茶。从他哥处得知，去大峡谷的路已被滑坡掩埋，小路全没了，不能去，（去大拐弯峡谷最好时间是三月），打消了去大拐弯念头，我们就直上八一镇。
在快到林芝时，要翻过一座色齐拉雪山，在色齐拉山口，我们下车去看大拐弯峡谷的著名的顶端－藏东地区第一高峰南迦巴瓦峰，这里是观南峰的最佳位置（指在公路旁）。以南峰为首是一个强列上升的中心，其上升速率和幅度为青藏高原其它地方所不及，南峰也是7700米以上唯一没有被登山队员征服的处女峰，南迦巴瓦峰在西藏是一座知名度很高的雪山峰。站在山口处，只见眼前一片开阔，朝南峰方向极目望去，一大片雪峰耸立，司机指着远处二座并立的雪白的双峰，在它们后面若隐若现有一座尖尖的高峰，那就是南迦巴瓦峰，可那天云很多，我没看真切，但那连绵不断的雪山群峰，使你产生那里是一片净土的感觉，仿佛跟我们脚下站的不是同一个世界，那里是藏传佛教中佛的国度，但那佛的世界在人的精神世界中却又无时无处不在。雪山口的经幡在风中猎猎作响，司机和藏族学生同时吼了一声：呀拉索！我问他们这为什么，他们说：所有雪山顶都是最圣洁的地方，大概他们是跟神在打招呼罢。
雪山顶上，车的皮带断了，修了大半个钟点修不好，后碰上后面上来老乡的车，要了条皮带换上，车又跑了，到八一镇已五点多了。
八一镇是个很大的镇，是林芝地区所在地，是广东援建的新型城镇，挺象样的，有城市气息，设计布局较新，很整齐，清洁。
网上提供的粮食局招待所已客满，后住政协招待所，两人间，100元/间。
5月19日（星期六）看世界柏树王－林芝巨柏早上起个早，路上买二个陕西馒头当早餐，7点出发，徒步去拜见林芝的世界柏树王。那是在林芝到八一公路旁的一处山岙里，离林芝4公里，离八一6公里，都是黑色路面。早上空气好，就作为锻练身体。天下着小雨，路上很少看到车和人，在西藏，这个时候是很早的。
约走了一个半小时，到达柏树王公园。这是一处二山交汇山岙处，只见云雾缭绕，空气中水气十分丰富，这大概是这批纯巨柏群活这么久的天然条件罢。
公园的门票是有点浮动的，那天光我俩个人，只收我们5元/人门票费。
这里巨柏林立，据介诏，这批巨柏平均树龄在2000年以上，平均高度在30米以上，平均树径1米多。
我们来到巨柏王树前，这株巨柏高51米，树径5.8米，树龄2500年以上，树干挺直，枝叶茂盛，令人惊羡、惊叹，藏族人称他为神树。我俩和神树合了影，并祈求神树恩泽，把他的寿赐于我们，保佑我们及家人、亲朋好友们都健康、长寿、幸福。
公园门口搭上车，回八一时九点多些。车上打听到一个信息，又一次调整了我们的计划：我们原打算从八一走南线，取道林芝、加查去泽当，参观桑耶寺（这是藏传佛教第一座寺庙，在建筑史上被称为佳作），然后再上拉萨，而刚得到的信息是加查山滑坡，不能通，路很险，我们马上改主意，直上拉萨(拉萨到泽当也有车通)。
八一到拉萨的车非常多，随时能搭上，我们搭上了一辆从八一回拉萨的拉萨汽车站的回程车，50元/人，很便宜的价（这里离拉萨还有400多公里的路）。没多担搁，11点左右，车就开出八一，开得也快，但快到拉萨时，油没了，一个人去搞油，，我们在车上只好干等，等了有一个多小时，所以到拉萨时已晚8：30了，我们按网上提供的，直接在八朗学旅馆下榻。双人间，50元/人，在拉萨，这算得上价廉物美了。
5月20日（星期日）宏伟的布达拉宫和神圣的佛教中心大昭寺布达拉宫是西藏著名的标志性建筑。
大昭寺是拉萨的中心，也是所有藏民心目中的佛教中心。
蜇蚌寺是西藏黄教六大名寺的首寺，是达赖执政前的驻锡杖寺庙。
罗布林卡是历代达赖喇嘛的夏宫，七世、十三世、十四世达赖在罗布林卡都建有宫殿，并常住那里。
以上几处是到拉萨必看的。上午首先去布达拉宫。
布达拉宫有十三层楼，一百一十七点十九米高，相当宏伟，有汽派，也十分有特色，老远就能看到她红白相间结构独特的城堡式宫殿，绝不可能其同它的建筑相混淆。初到拉萨，尚不适应高原的环境，且布达拉宫建于山顶，阶梯很高，走到宫门口还息了几次。
布达拉宫建得十分科学，进到里面，内部十分通气，西宫正殿的地上都有通风口，一直通到宫殿下的山上。来到红宫具大的墙体前，才发现那壮丽的红色墙体，并非传统的砖石之类的材料筑成，而是用当地一种叫白马草的草竹经处理后垒叠的，这种材料既减轻墙体重量，又可防晒防雨，还冬暖夏凉，这样的建筑思路在其它宫殿建筑中是绝无仅有的。
我们沿着布置好的旅游线路一路参观下去，就象进入了藏民族政教合一的文化历史，那些佛殿、坛城、历代宗教大师殿，历代达赖喇嘛的寝宫，还有三界殿，强巴佛殿等，既蕴含深刻的宗教文化内涵，又凝聚了藏民族巨大的知慧，但也不可否认其中浓郁的宗教色彩。如强巴佛殿的强巴佛，（即弥勒佛），胸中有一高僧的脑浆，说明佛是一活体，而不是一具空架子。
灵塔殿是布达拉宫的精华建筑之一，这里建有历代达赖的灵塔。五世达赖在西藏被认为是功勋卓著的，他是政教合一第一位执政的达赖喇嘛，他的灵塔造得最高，14米多高，也最富丽堂皇，共用了11万量黄金，一万多颗宝石，尤其是灵塔上方吊着的一颗灯泡似的夜明珠，是大象脑子里生成的，不可多得；灵塔中藏有达赖法体，经文，和莲花生、宗喀巴佛门宗师的头发、牙齿等舍利，象证法（法体）、语（佛经代表佛家语言）、思（佛教先师代表佛教思想体系）不分离。十三世达赖的功绩，据说可与五世达赖媲美，他的灵塔也高14米多，仅比五世的低了一点点，但用的珍宝是五世灵塔的十倍，但十三世达赖的灵塔殿未开放。
布达拉宫可说所有殿都是宝藏。在一座供有松赞干布的殿中，见到有一尊纯金打成的千手观音的立佛象；又在一座殿中塑有历代达赖、班禅的塑象，一个个十分逼真；那些年代久远而栩栩如生的壁画，更有那宝藏丰富的历代经文、典藉更是无价之宝。我们看到的仅仅是其中很小的一部分，已令我感慨万千，藏族同胞能把这些历史文化保藏得这么好，真是伟大。
每到一殿我们大多请管殿的喇嘛给我们讲解，他们多少能讲一点汉语。有一件事不能不记，在一座殿中坐着一位活佛，年纪已很大，藏民排着队，等活佛祈祷祝福，我也排在其中，这么艰辛的来到西藏，我自然非常想把活佛的祈祷带回去，轮到我了，活佛捧住我的头，他的脸与我的脸贴得很近，他的额头抵着我的头，口中念诵经文，祈祷完后，还替我洒上些圣水，藏民视这是很幸运的。
布达拉宫的门票40元/人，这门票是物有所值的，我们化了三个小时看完这布置的线路。
The afternoon went to the Jokhang Temple.
大昭寺是拉萨的中心，是藏民心目中的佛教中心，信仰的起点与终点。
大昭寺显得既古老又壮严，她是一个象征，代表着一种精神力量，散发着强烈的宗教气息。
大昭寺最珍贵的寺宝是佛祖释迦牟尼在世时根据他的真人塑的二尊等身像，据说跟当时的真容无异。一尊是8岁等身像，为尼泊尔公主尺尊（松先赞干布之妃）带入藏，另一尊12岁等身像，是文成公主入藏时，作为唐皇陪嫁，带入藏的（当时印度共塑了四尊12岁等身像，其中一座送给了唐朝），大昭寺就是为迎佛祖金身而建。
大昭寺的金顶群，金碧辉煌地林立在蓝天下，十公壮丽。
大昭寺里的酥油灯最多，燃得最旺。
老外进大昭寺是一定要买门票的，藏民拜佛则不用买，我们跟在藏民后面进了寺，没买门票，毕竟是同胞嘛。大殿的正门是关着的，但在二层的大窗口可见到大殿里供的松赞干布和文成、尺尊的塑像，佛祖的金身是不经常接见人的。
大昭寺四周是成正方型排列的包鎏金铜皮的玛尼转经轮，密密的排满转经的人群，我实实在在的转了好几圈经，把心中所有的祈求都拜知于佛，照我这样的诚心，佛定会依我的意愿，保佑我家及我的亲朋好友，且一代代的保佑下去。
出大昭寺，只见外面红日高照，我们有种从佛的世界来到人的世界的感觉。
大昭寺的大门外及寺周围的八廓街上，匐卜瞌等身长头，手摇转经筒转经的人，源源不断……
尤其是大昭寺大门口坚硬的石板上，被磕等身长头的虔诚信徒，用身子磨出来的槽印，还在不断加深……
这种气氛不得不感染着你，这就是西藏，这就是大昭寺。
八廓街现在不仅仅是一条转经路，也是一个繁荣的超市，我们逛了八廓街，买了些纪念品，直到筋疲力尽，才回旅馆。
5月21日（星期一）黄教名寺之首蜇蚌寺达赖夏宫罗布林卡蜇蚌寺是西藏格鲁派黄教六大名寺中最大的一个，座落在拉萨西郊约十公里的根培乌孜山南山坳，可乘3路专线车直接到寺门口。进寺门票为30元，我俩根据网上指点，操寺右边的一条小路上去，躲过门票，果然得逞，但蜇蚌寺规模太大，象一座大城堡，差点找不到进寺的大门，后借助路标及经人指点，才找到入口（即山门）。
蜇蚌寺的山门大门外有一个很明显的标志（山门已是在半山上）：山门右边的岩壁上刻有一尊很大的彩绘释迦牟尼岩画蜇蚌寺是达赖喇嘛移居布达拉宫前的住持寺庙。给我留下深刻印象的是寺内的措钦大殿，这个大殿位于全寺中心，占地4500多平方米，有183根柱子，可供几千僧人同时诵经，这么大的大殿是我见到的第一个，足见该寺之大。
措钦大殿后有三世殿，供着过去、现在、未来三世佛：原来领导佛界的最高统帅佛祖，也终久要圆寂，如来是现在佛，阿南（一说伟松）为过去佛，而弥勒为未来佛。所以在西藏，弥勒在佛界的地位极高，在西藏称弥勒为强巴佛，专门有强巴佛殿，蜇蚌寺的强巴佛殿很特别，有二层，下层供奉8岁的强巴佛，上层供奉12岁的强巴佛，二个佛像都是半身的坐象，很大，塑得非常漂亮，一进佛殿，坐象就坐在你面前，显得很真切。我到八岁强巴佛殿时，参拜完毕，正要出来，佛旁站的一位喇嘛，叫住我（因跟他交谈过几句，已知我们是从很远的浙江来的），指指佛旁的一面镜子，叫我照一照，并把一瓶圣水拿出来，倒在我们手心一些，叫我们擦擦脸，这样，佛光会永远照着我们，把好运带给我们，直到未来，因为这是未来佛。
进进出出走了许多大大小小的殿，因为这座寺庙是佛教大师宗喀巴的弟子绛央曲结所建，好多殿内都供奉宗喀巴的鎏金铜像。这里的寺跟江南寺庙风格、涵义不一样，每个寺庙有自己的函原关系及主供佛像，每座大寺都有自己的历史，所以比参观内地的寺庙有味道。这座寺庙经文的宝藏特别丰富。
这座大寺还有个养老院，这也是在其他寺庙所未见的，有些地位的僧人退体后就到蜇蚌寺的养老院养老。我们碰到一位原在大昭寺的喇嘛，现在这里养老，虽不通语言，但待我们非常友好，还与我合了影。
蜇蚌寺宏大、有气派，参观了三个钟头才出来，其实跟在布达拉宫一样，我们看的仅是一小部份。
给我的感觉是：西藏的所有财富（精神的和物质的），集中在大的寺庙中。
下午去了罗布林卡。门票25元/人。
罗布林卡被称为宝贝园林，是七世达赖所创建，后经八、十三、十四世达赖等扩建，形成现在规模。罗布林卡是达赖的夏宫，也是一座皇家园林。内有三座宫殿：七世达赖的格桑颇章、十三世的金色颇章和十四世达赖的达旦明久颇章（即新宫），这几位达赖大部分时间都住在这里。
罗布林卡，作为皇家园林，我觉得缺少了一种风范与气派，跟北京的颐和园没法比。
三个宫殿中最好的是新宫（建于五十年代），这座宫殿外观上保持了藏式宫殿建筑的特点，但内部的设施却很现代化，有沙发、收音机、钢琴，还有带浴缸的浴室，舒适不提，且很豪华；光是门厅吊灯，红、黄、蓝、绿各色晶莹的吊灯罩上，嵌满大块的宝石，灯开着时非常漂亮。
新宫值得一提的是二楼经堂四周墙上的巨幅壁画，是紧凑的组画式连环画结构，画面细致、精细，色彩绚丽，从西藏佛教传说猴子变人画起，按西藏历史的进程，一直画到达赖、班禅在北京与毛泽东会见，可谓是西藏历史的巨幅画卷。
可惜的是没人讲解，还是看不大懂这巨幅的画卷。
5月22日（星期二）美丽的圣湖－羊卓雍错卡惹拉冰川白居寺的十万佛塔在八朗学旅馆同二个广东青年（兄弟俩，姓麦），和二个成都姑娘，合在一起包了辆丰田吉普，线路是：拉萨－羊卓雍错－卡若拉冰川－江孜白居寺－日喀则－色迦－珠峰－定日－樟木，时间：七天左右，价格4760（其中4000元车费，400进山费，60元/人环保费）。司机是一位四十多岁的藏族汉子，后经实践考验，不仅车技过硬，而且人很敦厚。
早上八点，车从拉萨出发。
开出拉萨快三个钟头，人已迷迷糊糊，忽然听司机一声喊：羊湖到了（距拉萨170多公里在浪卡子县境内），顿时精神一振，这时车正行驶在一个山丫口，头伸出车窗外一看，见深深的山谷里，一条深天蓝色清澈美丽宽宽的大江展现眼前，原来这就是以秀美著称的西藏三大圣湖之一的羊湖。羊湖有700多平方公里的水面，平均水深30多米，最深处有60多米。该湖没有规整的形状，湖岸线弯弯曲曲，整个湖面支离破碎，使她看起来，有时象一条大江，在时是一块大湖，但湖光水色却异常地美，我们去时，季节偏早，湖边山上尚未有绿色，山坡上草也很短，再迟些日子来，羊湖一定更迷人。这湖还有一个特点：湖水由周围雪山的雪水为源头，却没有出口，而湖水却不会上涨，也不会浅下去，原因是雪山水的融化与湖水蒸发达到了一种动态平衡。
羊卓雍错湖面海拔4400米，是一个高山淡水湖泊。
车沿着羊湖边足足开了有个把钟头，让我们饱览了羊湖秀色；车时而在湖边开，时而又离湖远一些开，忽然有一处湖的开阔处，只见蓝天白云、远处湖边雪山统统倒映在羊湖宽阔的水面，其美无比，我们下车观赏了一会景色，拍了几张照，喝了几口圣湖水；又到一处湖边，见有藏民在湖边捞鱼，是一种无鳞鱼，肉很细，六人买了三条鱼，后到一个镇上，叫饭店加工了吃，味道不错。
过羊湖不久，就到卡惹拉冰川，卡惹拉冰川的融水就流入羊湖，这里是浪卡子县与江孜县的交界处，海拔应在5000米以上。
我们车子路过能见到是卡惹拉冰川冰舌部分的下缘，冰川的全貌或尉为壮观的中上部都没有看到，所以没有产生大的视觉冲击力，但他却勾起我对去年到过的梅里雪山明永冰川的深深回忆：当那十二公里长，500米宽，200多米厚的冰川全貌，一览无遗地展现在你面前；当你站到那冰舌之上，面前到处是冰墙、小冰山、冰砾，耳里听到高远处的冰崩声；犹其当那冰川之父，梅里主锋－克瓦格博在你面前十公里远的半空，驱散云务，披着金色阳光，象一座巨型金字塔样地傲然挺立时，一种震撼人心的具大的视觉冲击力不由自主产生，使那人间少有的，仙境般的景象铭刻心中，终生难忘，并由此对大自然特别造就的这些为数不多的杰作，生出无限的虔敬与崇拜。
4：00半左右到江孜县，在西藏这时还是烈日当空。当即，先去白居寺和著名的十万佛塔（门票30元/人）。
白居寺闻名的就是这白科塔，也叫十万佛塔，塔高九层，32.5米，这个塔建筑很特别，是以房子包塔，又在外面以塔包房子，一层层地往外扩建，所以塔的底部外围比一般塔大许多，塔外型很象北京的天坛，颜色为很鲜艳的一种蓝色，在蓝天白云及阳光照耀下，十分雄壮美丽。该塔共有108个门，每个门内都有佛供在那里，据说所有佛加起来共有十万尊之多，所以称为十万佛塔。只是最上面二层（供有雕塑十分精美的众多大小佛象），未对公众开放。但那佛塔本身确是座不多见的精美建筑。
此塔为布顿大师设计，从明永乐十二年始建，历时十年才建成，工程是十分浩大的。
今晚宿江孜（江孜的海拔在4000米以上），住粮食局招待所，40元一个晚上，双人间。在四川人开的饭店吃了晚饭后，回旅馆休息。公突然心跳得很快，我吃了一惊，赶紧陪到县医院去看了急诊，幸好除心跳过快外，心律及杂音等方面没发现问题，一位50岁左右的藏族女医生说是心动过速（以前可从没有这病根），可能高山反应加疲劳引起，用了些药，吊了瓶盐水，吸了些氧，就恢复了，医药费不贵，30元钱。给我们留下深刻印象的是那位藏族女医生和一位护士，自始至终守护在旁边不说，那瓶放了药的盐水，不到吊得一滴不剩，决不拔下针头，那种负责跟认真劲，在我们这儿的医院真是少见。
5月23日（星期三）日喀则扎什伦布寺世界上最大鎏金铜佛－强巴佛
7：45车向日喀则进发，日喀则是西藏的第二大城市，离江孜90公里，约10：00多些就到了。
司机替二个广东青年去办去珠峰的通行证，我们则去后藏名寺扎什伦布寺。我特别想去瞻仰那闻名于世的当今世界最大鎏金铜佛－强巴佛。
扎什伦布寺是黄教六大名寺之一，是班禅的驻锡杖祖寺。寺造在城边半山腰里，整个寺庙建筑呈一字型排开，离城十里开外，就能看到金灿灿一排金顶在半山腰闪光。
我们直奔名气最大，也是最吸引我的强巴佛殿（进寺门票30元/人）。该殿高30米，里面供着26.4米高的鎏金大铜佛强巴佛，这是尊坐佛（很值得记一记他的有关数据）：面部4.2米，耳长2.8米，手掌宽1.6米，中指长1.6米，指粗周长1米左右，脚底长4.2米，肩宽11.4米，大佛的鼻孔内可进入一人；光眉宇间那颗圆圆的“白毫”，是用一颗核桃大的钻石，30颗蚕头大的钻石，珍珠、琥珀、绿松石六十多颗镶嵌而成，其他帽子、后座等装饰的珠宝，不计其数；铜象由一百一十个工匠，用了四年时间，才修建成功，用去黄金六千七百两，黄铜二十三万一千七百五十斤，光那件袈裟，不知多少人，做了二个多月，才完成，而且到现在为止已换上第三件……依我看，这里不知创造了多少个世界之最。大佛制工精湛，既十分雄伟，又十分的精致，能把这二种风格这么完美的融合在一起，实属不易，整座佛是一稀世珍宝。
强巴佛是未来佛，造这座殿的宗旨，据说为了“预祝在5亿7千万年后，吉尊强巴者于佛教圣地多吉得佛，成为人类之首位”。为便于瞻仰与朝拜，与之配套大殿结构分为五层：一层莲花殿、二层腰部殿、三层胸部殿、四层面部殿、五层冠部殿。遗憾的是二层以上的殿都没有对公众开放，我们并没看真切大佛的所有细节，但仰起头，瞻仰强巴大佛那容光焕发的面容，端庄秀丽的姿态，金光灿烂的着装，已是五体投地地折服了。
扎什伦布寺内第二个使人眼睛一亮的是十世班禅的灵塔，高11米，整座灵塔嵌满珠宝，金碧辉煌……看完扎什伦布寺后，我又一次惊叹，西藏人是把所有财富都堆积到寺庙里了。
从寺庙出来，通行证也办好了，吃中餐后，又上路了，晚上宿拉孜，拉孜虽说是县城，但不不如我们这里的一个镇，条件很差（但却是一个交通要道），我们睡双人间，50元一夜。出了日喀则，可别再论生活条件呀什么的，能安安稳稳睡上觉、保证刷牙洗脸等日常事就算不错。
5月24日（星期四）觐见至高无上的珠穆朗玛今天早上近8：00从拉孜出发，实足乘了一天的车，傍晚4：00左右到珠峰前的绒布寺，这是世界上海拔最高的寺庙，5100多米。
到珠峰的路很差，常常是司机掌握着路，由他在广袤的高原上找路开。中饭是在定日吃的，定日是海拔很高的一个县城（4200多米，珠峰就在定日县境内）），人多少有点反应，所以胃口都不怎么样，我们都在藏人的一个饭店吃饭。
意外的在他的园子里发现了丢弃在箩筐中的许多海螺化石，原来这里在几千万年前是古地中海，后因西马拉雅的快速崛起，使这里成为海拔这么高的高原。老板见我们这么喜欢这些化石，就把藏着的几个精品拿了出来，公见其中拳头大小的一块海螺化石，很完整精致，叫我过去看，见这化石真是真人不露相：外表看象普普通通一块石头，一点看不出什么，但仔细看，可发现石的中上部有一圈细细的缝，沿缝挖开来，见里面大大的一个海螺，中下部的石头是阴纹，上部的石头是阳纹，二部分石头合起来，天衣无缝，而且这是几块化石中最精致的一块，就拿在手中不肯放手，老板讨140元，后以120元成交，十分小心的把它包裹好，带回家，实在是一件不可多得的西马拉雅纪念品。
过定日，就到了去珠峰的边旁检查站，在检查站路口有一座很特别的山，象是天然屏障，遮住去峰珠的路，转过这座山后，就进入珠穆朗玛自然保护区，这以后的路就不能算路，不是沟沟壑壑，就是颠颠簸簸高底不平的卵石滩路。好在有快见珠峰的美好前景在鼓舞着我们，心里只是不断祈祷珠峰别被云遮住，自我们出拉萨后，一直是晴空万里。
离珠峰不远了，在一个高高的山丫口上，树着一块大理石的碑，上面刻着珠峰旁边一连4座8000米以上高峰的位子及海拔高度，站在这个角度望过去，四峰刚好排成一列横队，从右到左为：卓奥友峰8201米、洛子峰8511米（世界第四高峰）、珠峰8848米（世界第一高峰）、玛卡鲁峰8481米（世界第五高峰）。按碑上刻的位子往远处望去，天公真助人心，万里无云，雪峰看得清清楚楚。再往前开，光见到珠峰了，那是珠峰大老远的在跟我们打招呼了，司机（名叫比巴）说我们的运气真不错。
终于到了绒布寺，二个广东后生一路上高山反应较为历害，再也不想动，首先得找房间休息一会。这儿条件更差，三人间的铺，40元/铺，我同公也只好分开睡。
我们可不想休息，马上跑到门外去看珠峰。迎门是块开阔地，正前方是一个十分巨大的山丫口，大山丫的正中端坐着巍峨的珠峰，映衬她的背景是整个的蓝天，只见整座珠峰一丝不挂地沐浴在金色的阳光中，象一座非常巨大的宝座按放在蓝色的苍穹下，说不出的壮美。
这里是观珠峰的最佳地点之一，能一无阻挡地正对珠峰观赏，离珠峰的直线距离只有20公里。有一个摄制组正在拍摄珠峰，他们说我们运气真好，能看到这么好的珠峰。有人住上十天半月还看不到珠峰，而看到这样的珠峰是要碰运气的。
所有的人（有好几个是老外）都激动不已，已晚上九点了，还跑到外面看珠峰，我则是感慨万千：下这么大的决心，化这么多的精力，吃这么大的苦头，珠峰啊珠峰，我们的初衷，不就是以您为最高目标吗？总算皇天不负有心人，如愿以偿。
这时的珠峰下部已被云遮住了，山顶上还沐浴着余辉，同下午看时比，显得高了点。珠峰给人总的感觉是，饱满，厚实，祥和，亲切；而梅里雪山则是一种冷峻居傲的美。
同摄制组的人攀谈了几句，问他们有没有摄过梅里雪山，他们说摄过，我问他们觉得珠峰与梅里那座更美，他们说，似乎梅里更漂亮，但珠峰有其特殊的名气，它因为是世界第一高峰，所以她更是一个象征。觐见珠峰，其实心灵及精神上的一种感受，是最大的享受，会受用终生。
站在珠峰前，我默默地祷告：圣洁、祥和、包容一切的珠峰啊，您是地球之颠，是最接近天的圣山，我把我祖母、父亲的英灵带到您的脚下，朝拜您；并把我家，我母亲并兄弟姐妹，亲朋好友最虔诚的朝拜及一切祈祷带到您的面前，您一定会用祥光笼罩我们，照亮我们人生之路，把健康、长寿、富足、幸福、光明带给我们及以后一代代的子孙。
2000年顺利的觐见梅里雪山（被称为藏区八大神山之首），2001年又顺利的觐见至高无上的珠穆朗玛，这真是一个好的新千年的开端，我们真是运气好透了的人。
5月25日（星期五）拜别珠峰去樟木昨天一天的颠簸，绒布寺海拔又这么高，风很大，很冷，我把带的所有衣服都穿上，还嫌冷，夜里头痛得抬不起，坚持写完日记（我必须得把见珠峰的感受及时记录），大概十一点多睡下，闭着眼，但睡不着，只是昏沉沉的，早上五点多就起来了，人好象有点感冒，赶紧吃药，在西藏感冒可不是玩的。
早上观珠峰，另有一番神韵。晨曦照到珠锋上，珠峰脚下的云慢慢往上升，遮住了珠峰的腰，珠峰显得有点温柔；突然，遮住珠峰的云被吹散，而珠峰头顶却顶了一朵小小的白云，就象戴了一顶白绒帽，西藏人称珠峰为神女峰，这时的珠峰有点秀气了。
七点零些，车驰离珠峰，我有点依依不舍，不时地回头，直到完全看不见。
从珠峰出来，经过老定日，又在老定日吃的中饭。以后经聂拉木（边境检查站设在这里）到樟木。
聂拉木海拔还很高，而樟木海拔却只有2000米左右，出聂拉木后，车就一直府冲着往下开，风光又好起来，人渐渐的舒服。其实，聂拉木到樟木之间就是一个10多公里长的山沟，山沟往樟木方向倾斜，沟里风景秀丽，树木极其茂盛，空气很湿润，氧气充足，西藏人称这里为天然的氧吧。到樟木晚上7：00点，从5000多米的珠峰下到2000米的樟木，身体得到充分休整，人马上就恢复过来，樟木，真不愧为西藏的江南。
因樟木是一个边境城镇，我们都被安顿到藏胞接待站，我们的双人间是70元，洗澡有专门的浴室，10元/人，很舒服。
5月26日（星期六）珠峰回拉萨途中之一：珠峰到拉孜早上你等我，我等你，结果11：0多才从樟木出发。樟木沟出沟时，风景秀美，气候宜人，要不是出发太迟，是打算步行2、3公里的。一过聂拉木，车就在阳光暴晒的西藏高原广袤的高山平原与数不清的黄土丘上奔驰，让你看够那原始、毫无人工痕迹的西马拉雅。
本来今天一天都坐车，够单调而厌人的，但途中却来了几段小插曲，给今天旅途平添丰彩：
1， 车过定日，约2点多些，正是西藏烈日当空之时，却看到公路旁的草地上，一群十多岁的小孩，排成男女前后二排，合着一位男青年的琴弦的弹拨声，用稚嫩的童声，清脆悦耳的唱着，并十分合拍的跳着藏族的锅庄舞，我们不禁把车停在路边，为他们喝彩。孩子们跳得很认真，很欢畅，一会儿背朝我们跳，一会儿脸朝我们跳，且为我们而跳，真是一群可爱的孩子，为表心意，我们把糖果、火腿肠给了他们一些，孩子们用歌舞送我们上路；
2， 今天准备到拉孜宿夜，车在过嘉措拉山口时（这里海拔5220米），眼前突然出现四周根本望不到边的大草原，开出定日时，红日当头，这时却下起了雪，雪花飘进车窗，不很冷，有点寒意，刚好调节我们的气温，可车到拉孜时，却又是大晴天，半路上还看到一段彩虹，七彩的，在天尽头的山脚边，一会儿就消失了，这就是西藏高原多变的气候，一个下午，就让我们全领教了。这就是西藏，她常常令你不备地给你一点极纯真的礼物，来补偿亲近她的人为她而受的辛劳，让你绝不说“懊悔”二个字。
到拉孜时，已晚上八点多。 80元钱买了把小巧精致的“真宗”拉孜藏刀（拉孜是以产藏刀闻名的），留作纪念。经验是越来越厚了，找旅馆时，不但货比三家，还去看过厕所及卫生设施，再决定住与不住，粮食招待所比较价廉物美，40元双人间，生活很实惠。
5月27日（星期日）珠峰回拉萨途中之二：拉孜到拉萨今天8：00从拉孜出发，直奔拉萨。乘了一天的车，下午5：30到拉萨，晚上就在车站招待所找了个双人间住下，50元/间，洗了个澡，给家里通了电话。
已定好明天上午10：0多去格尔木的车子，后转敦煌，再转乌鲁木齐，顺路去西安、黄河的壶口瀑布、华山，然后回家（注：西藏之外的地方原不在计划内，因计划中要去的阿里没去，就扩充了这些地方）。
5月28日（星期一）青藏线出藏：拉萨至格尔木
10：00多，车子驰离拉萨，别了拉萨，别了西藏，不知我们还会不会再度踏上你的土地？
准备了几个月的西藏之行，将接近尾声，原计划的内容基本兑现，由于运气不错，日程有提前。这次来西藏，从川藏线进藏，沿西藏南线，一直走到珠峰，所见所闻都是平生之未所见未所闻，对于我们来说，总是一段难忘的经历；当然，从川藏线进藏，青藏线出藏，跑完二线全程，尤其是到珠峰的路很差，其艰辛也非一般的旅游线路可比，这既考验了我们意志，也大大打开了我们眼界。
同时也带了太多的感慨回去。
感慨之一，我们从芒康入藏，经波密、八一、拉萨、江孜、羊卓雍错、卡惹拉冰川、日喀则、拉孜、定日、到珠峰、樟木，觉得西藏很大，西藏高原原始而广袤，除了拉萨、日喀则人口相对集中的地区，在广大的西藏高原上全是光秃秃的山，或许西马拉雅山脉太年轻，那广大的山地不成熟，还不具备养育一方人的地质地貌条件，亿万年演变着的地球不是人轻易能改变的，这不知是不是我的认识问题？
之二，开发西藏非常艰巨，交通恶劣造成广大地域闭塞与落后，在定日吃饭时，无意看了一个藏妇女的户口本，文化程度是文盲，是啊，这里读书太难了，多少里地才有一所学校，文化普及难，使这里的生活只能是维持生存型的；又在经过一个村寨时，看到我们停车，一群藏民围上来，有大人也有孩子，孩子们都伸出脏兮兮的小手，口里“哈罗，哈罗”的叫，向我们讨东西，有一个小孩，差不多才二岁多些，趴在妈妈的背上，一双大眼睛盯着我们，口里也“哈罗哈罗”的叫，我们讲不出是什么味道，这还是在公路经过的村寨呀。
之三，西藏有广大的地域，有别处没有的地型地貌，有藏民族自己依靠聪明和知慧累积的灿烂的民族文化，西藏已经有了很大的发展，但总的说，这么大而经济相对落后的西藏要开发，要有国家为支柱，要有八方的支援，象我们看到的八一、波密，在广东等地区援建下，建设得相当好，发展速度也很快。其他好多地区都得到内地有的地区援助，我们浙江就援建了难度很高的那曲（那里海拔有4500米左右），见了这些，很鼓舞人，真希望看到一个现代化的，又保留了西藏自己民族文化及特有的自然环境的一个欣欣向荣的西藏。开发西部，这个决策无疑是具有划时代意义的。
之四，沿途看到开山修路的都是解放军武警交通支队的大兵们，可能还有不少人不认识他们，但这次来藏，碰到并接触过他们，才认识到西藏开发，西部开发，交通是首当其冲的，所以他们是立头功的人，他们的付出是一般人无法承受的，而且要冒生命危险，所以这些大兵是挺伟大的。
5月29日（星期二）拉萨至格尔木的卧铺汽车上自昨天10：30至现在，实足坐了二天一夜的车，于今天下午5：00到达格尔木。青藏线是一条保养很好的公路，沿途也没风险，但路两边的景色，可谓再单调下过了，沿途全是黄沙石山，光秃秃的，没一点绿色和生气。今天一天的路程全穿行在藏北无人区，连动物也看不见，偶而几个人全是道路养护工人。
车一到格尔木，马上奔汽车站，晚上还有到敦煌的卧车，马上买好票，明早就可到敦煌了，到敦煌再进行修整吧，反正现在绝不能讲究形象。
小贴示：拉萨－格尔木票价：205元/人格尔木－敦煌票价：87元/人
5月30日（星期三）敦煌闻名于世的莫高窟昨天下午5：00到格尔木，马上又乘上去敦煌的卧车（汽车），其间只停留了二个小时。睡一个晚上，今天早上7：00车到敦煌，这是最合算的乘车法，又省金钱，又省时间（因莫高窟距城25公里，一般都早上发车，这样省下的时间不是一夜，而是一天一夜）。
据网上介诏，敦煌旅馆可砍价，淡季60元可住一标间，结果未果，后在“飞天宾馆”（二星级）80元/标间住下。宾馆里有组团一天游，线路按排：上午8：00－11：00游莫高窟；中午回宾馆休息，下午1：30－3：00游敦煌老城；晚上6：00－9：00玩鸣沙山。于是按顿好住宿，即去莫高窟，这是我们来敦煌的主要目标。
莫高窟俗称“千佛洞”，位于敦煌市东南25公里的鸣少山东麓。据说在前秦时期，一个叫乐仲的和尚来到这里，刚好傍晚的阳光照在山岩上，只见岩壁上出现了佛祖释迦牟尼讲经的场面，四周并有飞天，，认为这里是佛国乐土，逐凿了第一洞，名莫高，莫高窟也由此而得名。后随朝凿了76窟，唐朝凿了85窟，历代都有些扩建，形成现在规模。
1900年，于编号17窟（即藏经洞内，发现西晋至宋代经、史、子等集各类文书及绘画5万余册，由于英、法、日等国盗运走许多（今美、英、法、日好多博物馆均有展出），现今存窟仅1万余件，这些都是非常非常珍贵的传世文宝。
莫高窟是当今世界上规模最宏大，内容最丰富，艺术最精湛，保存最完整的佛教石窟寺，1961年被列为国家重点文物保护单位，1987年被联合国教科文组织列为世界文化遗产名录。
今天对我们开放较具代表性及保存完好的十窟：其中前七窟为盛唐、中唐、晚唐的石窟各一窟，窟内石像多为释迦牟尼及弟子，（左）阿难，（右）迦叶，有时还有菩萨及仙女像，大多体态丰腴有曲线，身上衣服十分合体地与身体合为一体，衣裥自然、服贴与飘逸，显得婀娜美丽；南北朝、西凉、西周等各一窟，这些1000多年前较早期的石窟，风格与唐代略有不同，唐代的风格显成熟，飞天也飘逸、轻盈、漂亮。后三窟为：96窟，世界屋内最高、敦煌第一高的弥勒佛像，35.5米高；130窟，敦煌第二高，25.5米高的唐代塑弥勒佛（还是释迦牟尼有点搞不清），这尊佛除了有一只手为宋朝修的外，整座佛像保存唐朝原来风貌，而且洞屋顶有藻井，周围壁上的千佛壁画、周天飞天画像，色彩鲜艳，具有很高的观赏及研究价值；148窟，为一唐朝塑的释迦牟尼涅槃像，卧像体态婀娜十分优美，后面有72弟子送师父的塑像，各具姿态，非常生动、逼真，整个石窟为一棺型洞屋。
... ...
莫高窟目前保存不错，看了这样的文化艺术遗产，很为我们国家的灿烂的文化而自豪。
小贴示：门票：80元/人。
5月31日（星期四）在敦煌火车站候车今天9：50离开敦煌。敦煌自己没通火车，其火车站在离他150公里的柳园，乘汽车到柳园三个钟头，15元/人。 12：30到柳园。
柳园站刚改名为敦煌站，有的地方还在装修，候车室很干净，令人有舒服感。公出去买吃的，我在候车室等，买回了一些驴肉（15元/斤）、鸡脚爪（很大，7元/斤）、一瓶啤洒，一餐饭约二十元钱，吃得很舒服。
敦煌自己没有工业，只有依靠旅游业，5月1日旺季时人很多，门票自4月30日起全面上扬，莫高窟从50元/人涨到80元/人，鸣沙山从30元/人涨到50元/人，来的人自然是无法，但这种做法，究竟是利多还是弊多，恶性还是良性，实难评价。
已买好晚上6：25至新疆吐鲁番的卧铺火车票，99元/人，现在是3：35，外面太阳很猛，且柳园没有什么可走的，就在车站休息休息。我就趁这个时间记下今天的日记。
最困难的旅程已经过去，回想敦煌之前的旅程，几乎每天都坐8小时以上的汽车，在平均海拔4000米以上的路上颠簸，路面又差，嘴唇差不多脱了一层皮，鼻子里老是燥乎乎的……。都已过去，一出西藏，感觉马上就不一样，，没有高原上的那些不适应，口不干了，鼻不燥了，人马上就恢复过来，以后的旅程将是轻松休闭的，一路逛着回家。
6月1日（星期五）新疆的吐鲁番和乌鲁木齐今天凌晨4：11火车到达新疆的吐鲁番站，其实真正的吐鲁番市离这里还有50公里，5：50搭上中巴，到市区约8：00。马上有人兜上来，四个人包个小车，玩城东包括火焰山在内的四个景点，每人30元；我们这时刚好碰上一对黑龙江大庆油地的夫妻，女的跟我同岁，男的比公大一岁，他们俩从内蒙古、西安、银川等地一路走来，也是自己走，在敦煌碰上他们，一起来到吐鲁番，跟我们还合得来，就合伙包了车，共120元。
吐鲁番是海拔－158米的世界第二低的低地，我们从世界屋脊一下来到世界有名低地，只觉得很闷热，，幸亏今天是个阴天，昨天这儿的气温达41度，有点吓人。
城东的四个景点，火焰山，因西游记的影响力，名气大些，其余几个：高昌古城是1000多年前，古代一位将军在这儿屯兵时建的一座古城遗址、还有一个是里面有木乃依的古墓、再一个是千佛洞，因我们看时缺乏讲解，也没看出大名堂，千佛洞因年久失修，我们也就没去。化了半天时间就回城里，下午上了高速，就去乌鲁木齐，票价60元/人。约下午2点多些到乌鲁木齐，在车站附近的车站旅馆住下，双人间，50元一夜。
公打电话，居然找到了在全国街道主任学习班的一位同学（已十多年未谋面，这次机会难得），他现在是乌市东山区的办公室主任，晚上他开了小车，带我们在市中心的红山公园山顶上观了乌市全貌，并请我们吃了当地特色饭－抓饭。乌鲁木齐城市很大，市容不错，有都市气息，城市管理也有秩序。但车站跟西部城市一样，还是有点杂，卖假票的也有，自己一定要长点心眼。
6月2日（星期六）游天山天池逛五一星光夜市今天一早（约七点）出来，乘2路车到红山站下车后，到西大桥人民公园门口（那里有散客服务中心）。见有许多天池一日游的专线车停在那里，价格各不相同，有58元/人、40元/人、28元/人等，主要是车不同。我们在散客服务中心的新世纪旅行社签了28元/人的合同票（门票60元/人，自己掏钱）。我们的价格是最便宜的，车是一辆小面包，坐11个人，配一个导游。车在9：45出发。
天池离乌鲁木齐市90公里，大部分是高速公路，其余的路也是黑色油路，油路几乎直达山顶，可看出天山旅游已开发得相当成熟（天山旅游开发已有二十年），游的人是一点不累的。
天池是由天山的雪水汇成，是一个高山湖泊，海拔1900米（天山的主峰高5000多米），面积不大，只5平方公里多些，但水深有60米－70米，水很清很凉，四周的山有很好的原始森林，风景优美，在半山腰还有一个气派很不错的瀑布。
天池风景区不大，下午二点就玩完了，还乘游艇在天池中兜了一圈（20元/人）。因规定五点返程，个别游客快五点才聚拢来，我们只好干等了三个钟点。
一回到乌市，马上先到火车站购了去西安的卧铺票（430元/人），回旅馆洗澡后，去逛乌市有名气的“五一”星光夜市。真是又开了一回眼界，这夜市象是一道风景线，令你目不遐接。长长的一条街，头上横挂着橙黄的珠灯，又热闹又漂亮；维族人、汉族人（包括陕西、山西、湖南等各地人），各种特色小吃全在这里大显身手，点心、小吃、烧烤应有尽有；沿街两旁全是冒烟的炉灶，两边人行道成了露天的餐饮室；在这里甚至看到青蟹、龙虾，还看到宁波汤圆，你想吃什么就吃什么，价廉物美，现烧现买现吃，羊肉串在这里才0.50元一串，一路逛过去，一路吃过去，心情特放松，周围和谐的气氛和环境，令人十分愉快，也很有情趣。
我们先在维族人的一个摊上吃了十串羊肉串（羊肉又新鲜又嫩，很好吃），一条烤鱼，二个红烧羊蹄，二个烤羊肝，共24元钱，后一路往下逛着，又吃了冰镇绿豆汤，烤麻雀，十八元钱买了一个大青蟹，已吃不下了，带回旅馆吃……大概一共才用了五、六十元钱，吃到喉咙为止，尽兴极了，乌市的这个夜市，是我见过的最有特色、最丰富、最有趣的一个夜市，真希望宁波也有这样的一个夜市，那会给宁波人增添多少的夜生活丰采啊。
回来将到旅馆，天色大变，刮起了沙尘暴，风沙劈头盖脑扑向你，气都有点喘不过来，挺吓人的，幸亏很快就到旅馆，否则得吃不少苦头。
6月3日（星期日）冒雨逛乌鲁木齐买的是晚上6：47的火车票，白天准备再去逛逛乌鲁木齐市。
8点多起床，洗了头发、，洗了澡，去逛市中心。下起了中雨，风很大，天冷了许多，一直到近中午，天才放晴，真怪的天气，昨晚、今天上午，下午就变了三次脸。
乌鲁木齐还是挺繁华的，市中心地段高楼不少。在“东方一百”（乌市数一、数二的大百货商场）买了一个羊脂白玉（属新疆和田白玉的上品）雕的小玉蝉，玉质十分纯，雕的也精细，背部的羽翼及肚下的纹路全都雕出来，就挺喜欢，460元（此店不可还价）买下，就留作纪念。
中饭在五一市场那里的一家维人餐馆吃羊肉烤包和羊肉串，四点多些去车站。在外面，车站候车往往成了我们休息的时间。
6月4日（星期一）乌鲁木齐至西安卧车上昨晚6：47分T194次列车准时驰离乌鲁林木齐，终点站是汉口。
这是列新车，极干净，厕所的抽水马桶无嗅味，洗脸台有冷热水龙头，是至今坐过的最好的一列卧车。车很空，我们上下六个铺位，只乘三个人，很舒适。
车上无事，外面景色也不好看，除了睡，听听列车上播放的音乐，权当疗养，上、下午各睡了一觉，下午一觉从3：00多睡到5：00多，实足二个钟点。
晚上6：45车到兰州，兰州是个古城，很大，黄河从其城中流过，黄河名符其实，呈土黄色，水很混浊。在兰州车站买了只烧鸡，二十元钱，一瓶啤酒，吃得很饱。
6月5日（星期二）西安东线：兵马俑、华清池今天5：50分T194次列车抵达西安车站，一驶进车站，就看到北门－尚德门的城墙和城门。西安是著名的历史古都，城市及周围有很多古迹。西安很大，有大市风范，但城市的管理不尽人意，显得混乱，也不够整洁，特别是火车站，各色人等齐全，卖假票，乱拉客，欺诈游客的事，层出不穷，这在西部地区已经出了名，给这个美丽的古都蒙上了一层阴影。人一到西安就已诫心重重，不敢相信任何人，乘车、找旅游线路等，凡事一定得自己问，自己找，尽量找公交车、国营车。
我们在车站附近找了家“铁路公安处招待所”落脚（也是承包的），60元/间，双人间，环境设施都难令人满意，房间是有卫生间的，结果说是锅炉环了，还是洗不成澡，为抓紧时间，马马虎虎先住上一个晚上。
放好东西后，马上在车站广场上乘306路往东线的专线车，目的地二个：兵马俑、华清池。
兵马俑在临潼，离西安约30－40公里，汽车一个多小时可到。门票65元/人，共开设三个坑（1－3号坑），另外一个兵车陈列馆。
一号坑最大，坑内是步兵的阵容布阵，最前面是三排步兵俑，是前锋兵，中间列好几纵队，最旁边两排都是脸朝外的，是防止偷袭的，坑有一万平方米，气势非凡；二号坑的兵俑都各有功能，有骑射俑、文史俑、将军俑等，脸部表情无一类同，姿态栩栩如生；三号坑最中间有一马车及驾车的兵俑，旁有两侧室，一间有64兵俑，好似一个参谋部，另一室则是出征前的祈祷室，这三号坑好似一个指挥中心；在兵车馆里陈列着二驾铜马车，一驾是立车，一驾是坐车。立车出土时，已碎成三千多片，化八年时间才复原，坐车碎成一千多片，化三年时间才复原，工作量及难度都是可想而知的。立车可能是开道战车，坐车是秦始皇坐的，十分豪华。二驾铜马车比例缩小为50％，但战马的身段，马车的考究，精细实令人叹为观之。三个坑都有大量陶俑尚未出土，工作人员正在旁边细致的工作着。由于陶俑一出土后，就会变色，出土后必须将陶俑修复后处理保管好。据导游说，一个陶俑出土后，修复得化一年功夫，发掘并保藏好坑内乘下的陶俑，肯定是一项长期艰巨的工作。
如此规模浩大的兵马俑、铜战车，反应出当时高超的智慧和工艺制作水平，这些秦俑堪称世界一绝。因警叹这些秦俑的伟大，在临潼带了一个小兵马陶俑回来，是个将军俑，跟大兵马俑十分相象。
华清池是一个依骊山而建的唐朝时代的皇家温泉洗澡行宫，其精华部分是引温泉水进来而建的唐朝皇室及其宫妃、大臣们的各色汤池，一律青砖铺就，其中杨贵妃沐浴的芙蓉汤，及唐明皇自己沐浴的莲子汤，比较精致些。
下午回来后，就乘610路环城公交车，逛了城中的几处景，如大雁塔、钟鼓楼，城墙等。西安的钟楼、鼓楼是分开的二座城楼，既壮丽又秀美，非常漂亮，比我们宁波的鼓楼大了好多，且漂亮精致许多。
明早准备走西安的西线，这是一条精华线路，一定得去。
已买好明晚十点多去延安的火车票（150元/人），准备去壶口瀑布。
6月6日（星期三）西安西线：茂陵乾陵今天起了个早，7点不到，就把二个包寄在火车站，直接找西线的专车。有一个散客服务中心的车拉我们坐她的车，答应二人车费50元，这是很便宜的价。西线的主要景点有：汉陵（主要看茂陵，这是汉武帝的墓），乾陵（是武则天和唐高宗李冶的合葬墓），法门寺等，共有200多公里；这辆车在各个旅馆拉了不少客，都是45元/人车费，另外五个景点门票加导游费145元/人，共每人190元，他们都是参团形式，我俩因不是参团，只是散客身份，就选二个愿去的景点茂陵跟乾陵，不原去的景点，我们就不进去，门票自理，我们实际付出门票及导游110元/俩人。
茂陵附近的汉陵共有九座，即西汉王朝九位王陵（都各占据一座山头），随着车的行进，你能看到这些王陵占据的山头，其中包括汉高祖刘邦的长陵。
茂陵是汉武帝的墓，是汉陵中最大最好的一座陵墓。茂陵有陪葬墓好几座：爱妃李夫人的墓，爱将霍去病的墓等，霍去病的墓已被发掘，并造了“霍去病陵墓公园”，是个4A级公园，园内花木造型及护理都属一流。霍去病当年驱匈奴，战功赫赫，深得汉武帝厚爱，但却在二十四岁英年早逝，汉武帝十分痛心，以帝王家的礼仪厚葬，墓内的随葬品（有一个博物馆）丰富而规格很高，能一定程度反映出汉代帝陵的墓葬规格。霍去病墓上还有二个石马，一个叫马踏匈奴，是石雕的一个马踩着一个朝天躺着的匈奴人，以表霍去病的丰功伟绩，是汉代原物，雕得很生动。汉武帝在位54年，茂陵造了35年。
乾陵是唐高宗李冶与中国唯一女皇武则天的合葬墓，也是唯一一座二皇合葬墓。乾陵附近共有十八座唐朝帝王陵墓，包括唐太宗李世民的昭陵和唐明皇李隆基的泰陵，但乾陵算得上最好的一座。
乾，在八卦中是天的意思。
乾陵，头枕梁山（墓就筑在梁山肚子里），脚踩渭水，整座陵区很象一个睡美人。这美人，长长的墓道是身躯，头是梁山，胸腰处有二座山，称为双乳峰，象一对双乳；往下一直延伸，到脚丫处有二小土堆山，是二个脚板；沿着长长的身子（即地上墓道），往上走，两边是唐朝原物：二排翁仲，一直排到梁山陵前；站在梁山陵前，朝双乳峰方向望去，景致少有的好，气派极大、有帝王陵墓气势，使你能体味到什么叫风水。
乾陵前有块无字石碑，碑上雕八条龙，据说一般帝王雕龙都为九条，代表九鼎，但则天是女的，且她当时是以皇后身份下葬，并未被承认为帝王身份，所以少一条，但武则天颖智过人，她暗暗在无字碑两碑面上各刻上一条龙，共为十条龙，反而多出一条龙。关于无字碑，有几种说法：1，武则天自立，很难评价自己，干脆留于后人评说，立成无字；2，碑为儿子李显（肃宗所立，因不愿评价母亲功过，就立成无字碑）；3，武则天的姓，武，与无谐音，无字碑即武氏碑也。这只能是一个悬案了。
在乾陵还有二个陪葬墓，一个是武则天长孙（李显之子），懿德太子墓，另一个是武则天孙女（李显之女），永泰公主墓，因兄妹俩偷偷议论武则天晚年私生活，被武则天知道后乱棍打死，当时一个才19岁，一个才17岁，李显即位后，替儿子、女儿平反昭雪，并以帝陵规制，为儿子阴配后，建了合葬墓（懿德不被打死，是皇位继承人），为女儿也建了墓，都作为陪葬墓葬在唐墓群中。
关于武则天的出身，父亲是一个木匠，因是李渊的朋友，当时广建宫殿，做木材生意而发财，李渊即位后，封为工部大臣（相当建筑部长），李世民即位后，则天14岁那年被召进宫，封为才人（正五品，替皇帝铺床叠被），李世民死后，进感业寺做尼姑，唐高宗李冶继位后，把她接出来，封为李冶的昭人（正二品），武则天既美丽又聪明，最终成为中国唯一有才干的女皇。
西线最后一站是法门寺，这是唐朝皇家寺庙，以地宫的舍利而著名。法门寺的山门前十分开阔，很有气派，寺内藏经的唐塔十分高峻漂亮，典型的唐塔风貌，似在西安市内的大雁塔之上。
逛西安还买了几件兰田玉器，价不高，也好看，很开心。晚上回到西安已晚七点。
6月7日（星期四）壶口瀑布昨晚乘西安－延安的卧铺火车去延安，今早6：10到达延安，马上打的到城东的汽车站，赶上了一趟到壶口瀑布的车，一点没有浪费时间。中午12点到壶口（有二百多公里）。
壶口瀑布是黄河上游的一个瀑布，黄河水流在这里被收窄，象个茶壶嘴，且有落差，就形成一个大瀑布。这是我国除黄果树瀑布外的第二大瀑，瀑布大而有气势。
走近瀑布，冷风夹水珠吹过来，噎得人喘不过气，黄果树瀑布落差高，得站在稍远处看，壶口瀑布却能让你走近她，让你觉得很刺激；瀑布周围是十里河滩，这里水满时，则是河床，铺满河床的不是卵石，而全是巨石，真不愧为中华民族母亲河，落入眼中全是大河风凡：大河川的河床、河滩、河槽，令你惊叹。玩了一个多钟头，真过瘾。
二点半从壶口回出，原车把我们带到“茶坊”（这是一个交叉口的地名），这里容易搭车，后搭上去黄陵的车，晚8点多到黄陵，乘天空还有点亮光，马上到黄陵景点转上一圈，觉得黄陵气派不够大，且配套的多为人造景点，，就没有兴趣留宿，当晚搭上回西安的车，晚上11点到西安。
小贴示：车费：84元/人门票：25元/人
6月8日（星期五）华山今早又起了个早（昨晚其实只睡4－5小时），去找去华山的车，二个小车都拉我们上车，我们就挑了人坐满点的那辆车上了，这次怪自己戒心不够，随便坐上私家车，结果是吃尽若头：1）不走高速走旧路，为的是沿途可拉客，沿途拉客还情有可愿，路边没人，卖票的跳下车在路边等客，一等就是20分、半小时，但好比上了賊船，难以自拔，半路里很难换到车。 2）被二次倒车，这车象接力跑一样，自己跑一段后，把旅客全部倒给下一辆车，每辆车都在自己的车程内，尽情的拉客、等客，全然不管车上的人死活，车到华山，165公里路程足足坐了五个钟点，那感觉差极了，这是一个惨痛的教训，去过西安人的告诫的那些话，很应牢记心上，出门在外，万事一定得相信自己，尤其在西安更该如此。要是乘的是散客中心的专线车，决不会遭此暗算，因散客中心的车通常8：00以后才开（这车是上高速的），而我们当时才6：00零些，为图早点到华山，结果比迟都迟。
11：00多才到华山，打的到索道处，寄好包，买好门票（60元/人），即上山。进山的路约六、七公里，路很好，车费10元，送到索道口，乘索道双程费用100元/人，直到北山顶。
华山是五岳中最高的山，以险著称，但你如今去华山，绝感不到险。华山的山体是清一色的花岗岩，总的说有一种单调感，觉不出名山的名气来。不顾从山群的观感、各峰的秀美险峻、山群布局的错落有致、或游玩趣味性，华山都不能与黄山比，对黄山，确有“黄山归来不看山之感”，华山显普通。
在北山顶上爬了一个多小时山，往西山方向爬了一段路的山，终于觉不出有特别大吸引力，回程了。下索道后，一路步行十多里路出山，到火车站购好晚7：50去上海的特快火车票（180元/人，卧铺只好到车上再解决）。
西安印象西安是一座历史文化名城，也是历史名都，城市大，且古迹多，好些名胜古迹是重量级的，如兵马俑、汉陵、乾陵、城内的城墙、钟鼓楼、大雁塔、碑林等，很值得一游，但旅游软环境实在不尽人意，但愿在不久的将来会有所好转。
6月10日（星期日）回到家中今天终于圆满完成旅程回到家中，女儿女婿准备了一桌丰盛的晚餐，为我们接风，好风好水将永留我家，美好回忆将永存我俩心头。
Author: jyhx
