(13)
A long time ago, had seen the story of a Sichuan-Tibet line: Two tourist in a foreign land with the boys and girls, get to know the dangerous desolate Sichuan-Tibet road, Xiangruyimo. The outcome of the story is that they like the vast sky in a moving two planets, drove up from different places, at a certain time space, the intersection and then, nothing has changed between the movement trajectory, to a fixed inclination toward their own The goal, farther and farther, farther and farther. At that time I have thought, these two individuals, there had been love, at least, have had the seeds of love, but it has not grown up on it with the sense of strangulation, which is what a cruel and, unfortunately, ah! !
Now, I and Jane then embarked on a Sichuan-Tibet line.
Lhasa start, our first stop Linzhi (Linzhi, Tibetan means "mother's family, the throne or the throne of the sun").
From the map view, Nyingchi 400 kilometers away from Lhasa, the need to climb 5384 meters in the Himalayas Mila Pass, is a not an easy journey. In fact, the road from Lhasa --- Nyingchi, Tibet rare black road surface, road conditions excellent.
Days this season in Tibet rare cloudy days, clouds floating in the mountainside, a night rain washed the air clean incomparable. Air deceive mountains, river gentle, strange thing is even in the River Center, saw the remains of two Dongfeng truck, the driver said it was raging river marks.
Diana has begun to wither side of the road, pond for aquatic plants is exciting red, distant mountains on the yak a tiny group of black spots, and occasionally, shape huge ravens flew Didi Di.
Vehicle and maizhokunggar, increasingly beautiful scenery up there is a small village, lying quietly on the roadside, set off at Castle Peak yellow leaves, the reflection pond, like an oil painting village in Russia.
I marvel that the street step in a prayer of pilgrims who they are ragged, sounded dust cream, every step must be five bodies to bid for land Koubai time, so that thousands of miles until Wanli Lhasa, along the way I do not know bow down to a few many times! ! Some even took a few years, rain or shine, just to be able to added a little butter before the Buddha. Such significance? For me, really hard to understand, I think this mediocrity in human life, if you have experienced a return pilgrimage, is not what would be a bit raw days of extraordinary significance?
Contrary to our surprise, our car Milla Yamaguchi surprise, it began to snow, and the greater the more the next. Since Tibet, I can not remember how many went through the pass can be at the moment, watching the sky flying snow, we still have a little bit excited. Jane out of the car, who was immediately covered with snow, it seems road that had already disappeared in the sky snow. I am holding the camera a while Mengsao, Jane asked me laugh: Qianshan without seeking Department, the comparable home snow?
Driving through the Mila Pass, and started down the, and the northern foot compared with lush vegetation, much of the scenery along the way and more beautiful. The northern foot of the Himalayas have been intractable in autumn, here are exceptionally pale, flower exactly, trees are prosperous, do not see is the late autumn of. Yi-Niyang gentle with us all the way, Riverside is the grasses, with grazing cattle. People say that they spend go back later and, at the moment we are deeply intoxicated in the surrounding beauty, the hate only the speed too fast, and Jane had been hurried master a bit slower, then slow down. Often see a beautiful landscape are hard to see that to each other, and then sent along with loud praise.
Guo gongbo'gyamda, there is the famous Basongco (conggo Lake), Unfortunately, the road leading to the lake is under construction, very shake. 4 pm, to Bayi Town.
Nyingchi Bayi town is the capital, which is built with assistance from a new city in Guangdong. All the way through so many poor shabby town, and it suddenly appeared in feasting, the new cultural building, equipped with sauna, fitness clubs and other entertainment facilities, peacefulness, Yan Ying Sheng language of the nightclubs, voices of the restaurant; Mancheng running a taxi, the plain is Santana ... ... all of this, so that we could not believe it is the Sichuan-Tibet road, a ruined town, but rather the mainland coastal developed areas, or a county!
Unexpected is that, that often cctv advertising Qizheng Tibetan Medicine, was originally Nyingchi of a business.
By Nyingchi we know, the Sichuan-Tibet line 102 classes a major landslide, there is no shuttle bus to Bomi had!
In many text has long been the feeling of the Sichuan-Tibet line, dangerous, knowing the Sichuan-Tibet line is often interrupted because of an accident, but we did not expect that we would be such a bad luck. By Nyingchi not to Bomi, as if not to the Great Wall to Beijing, to the Eiffel Tower in Paris do not go, like what the point?
And Jane talk a bit, we decided to try his luck on the street.
Really have good luck in the Nyingchi's Grain Bureau parking lot, but still have a 2020 Jeep to go to Beijing Bomi, each 120. The driver was a talkative young man, according to him Driving Status good enough to cope with adverse circumstances, their own path in this line for many years, and experience is very rich. This allows us to subtly fortunate endless.
Xu is the National Day Golden Week tourism reasons, the town is a bustling crowd, we are looking for a long time there is not even find accommodation, with great difficulty at the district administrative office, a hostel until availability. I lean on the bed to see if Jane was busy finishing our pack. Inter-trance, I really do in Tibet? And had never met, but extremely cordial and extremely familiar with the snow which is similar to Jane? ?
I gently walked over, grabbed the waist of the Jane, Jane is also Fanshen hugged me, and I helped her long hair covered his head back in order, his hands gently stroked her face, no one speak, will do the right depending on the quiet, moonlit water, in the Jane's Mouzhong.
(14)
Young drivers have come a long, and we excitedly got on, a look at four passenger cars were already there, we immediately know that the wrong ----- this small Beijing Jeep, to set out on seven individuals, go This is the Sichuan-Tibet line, it reluctantly.
But no choice, we got on, but my mind was insecure themselves.
Nyingchi ---- Bomi, the map is a short arc, mark a distance of 190 km.
This is a short 190 km, there are three experienced drivers as a dangerous road of the natural barrier: Pai Lung, Tong wheat, 102 courses, called "natural barrier" because it is the Sichuan-Tibet road three landslides and The most frequent of the debris flow at each year were overturned on the cliff and more young soldiers in the debris of the disaster, the flood volume was too indefinite traces. In particular, tangmai natural barrier, known as the "death zone" is narrow, winding, soft subgrade year, only a few months can be opened to traffic.
Peer is in a middle-aged people in suits and ties, hair combed neatly, finger is a huge gold ring on the case with fervor and assurance along the way and I suspect that Jane might have a local cadre? Is leaving for a packet, with thick glasses girl, claiming to want to come to Yunnan, Zhongdian, Yunnan-Tibet line to go see her have to offer is really so ashamed of our big bags, can not think of her How to do; there are two handsome Kham is the guy, can understand Chinese but would not say that the best communication between us is a smile.
81 Nyingchi county town of ---- 19 km, car soon arrived, along the way is a jade green and gold in Nigeria, Yang Qu Yang Shulin, Castle Peak stretching, landscape Wansi Anhui, let us giddy heart gradually calmed down. Car into Sejila Hill, drifting high, walking in the virgin forest in the mountains when you hear birds.
Sejila Pass 4720 meters above sea level, winds, Yamaguchi inserted a number of colored streamer fluttering fluttered. Thin snow on the hillside, the distant mountains are also covered along with some non-oriented year-round snow, vast expanse of whiteness, and with the heavy iron-gray clouds and the snow filled the company has become one. I am holding Jane's hand, climbed a small hill, standing in the wind, we feel that way almost from the day. No other cars on the road again, but there are no other people around the Wanlaijuji, it seems that this piece of pure heaven and earth are the property of us.
Lu Lang Lin boundless miles, Lulang town is Nyingchi - Bomi a big town, and from vehicles in general lunch here. The streets of the little restaurants on the words "Lulang Ishinabe", I and Jane have a corrupt, that taste, they are not that good. The town side of the beautiful scenery makes it reluctant to accept defeat, water gurgling, stream of meadow wildflowers are in full bloom on the unknown.
Front of the vehicle lines, narrow and acute mountain together, thanks to the roadside is a thick bush, let us slightly Fangkuan Xin. Only to hear the sound of roaring water, cliff is Yigong zangbo River had.
Guo Pai Lung natural barrier, the entire section and all opening out of the cliff, but will be mudslides destroyed each year, so simply is no longer built, but the rocks clean, the car will be able to strike so-so. In some places is simply a stone with wood and wire that will be stitched together, then sprinkle sand on top, then become a road.
One side is a surging river, one side is the same as Daoxue ax steep snow-capped mountains, glaciers, this section almost every day to repair broken at any time, landslides, avalanches, glaciers frequent landslides. Our Beijing Jeep hum hum rip rip limp in the mountain with the obvious lack of motivation. Jane and I simply out of the car, followed by a walk in the back of the car, so feel safer. Cadres from time to time to remind us: Be careful head falling rock, carefully loosen the soil at the foot! ! Vehicles, the wreckage of the cliff can be seen from time to time, so that our Xinxuan to the extreme.
Palongzangbu Jiang and Yigong zangbo Jiang tangmai join, and fold the south import Brahmaputra. Confluence is a big bend, boulder on a streamer fly. Look at the hills opposite, because the big cave, half bare hills, bare rocks broken from time to time there are big stones rolling down from above, down into the surging river.
Tangmai a natural barrier, mountain more muddy rut deep, careful, it will wipe the chassis to the road, but the road there are several processes simply can not avoidance, only allow the car's chassis from above "bang" sounds to bump the passing. Mountain side of the road look shaky, it seems that there will be a rock fall at any time Laiza the roof; narrow roads, it became the vehicle to narrow walking would be very difficult for cars, only a limited few sections will barely allow the two cars pass by. Way to stay on board for our courage, the is a great test.
I am a little regret, Why did you choose this line? Jane has also linked up really should not have let her so badly shaken up. Jane seemed to understand my thoughts, my slightly smiled, and gently shook his head, eyes closed, head resting on my shoulders. I live in Jane's hand grip, I felt the palm out of a lot of sweat, Jane's hand is, and read out she was very tense. We are at the moment, what do not want to just hand tightly pull together, that would depend on each other as the only. Hold her hand, I have a little some stability.
Tangmai Bridge was washed away last year's floods, when the Sichuan-Tibet line, therefore breaking half a year. Now the bridge is new office, and two suspension, which is supported by a simple steel girder bridge just for each allowed only on a vehicle passing the bridge. Tong Mai town is not big, landscape is also nothing to see, there are forces barracks, parade ground empty. Roads along the way soldiers are in it.
Jeep wait until they finally can not hold on here, the car shop owner holding a welding East Point West Point, we use this time in the sun ---- street canyon where the air is wet, the sun shed bits and pieces of the past Instead, people think that the air is more humid.
102 Great landslides are roads, Sichuan-Tibet line break is here. At the entrance there are already many cars parked there, waiting for the release of construction space. Many pedestrians can not wait, simply walked this section, however, 1 hour to walk around, but also beware of falling rock peak. I asked Jane, can I? Jane apart from anything else, his backpack and a tour.
Sichuan-Tibet line stretches on the whole, one of the most dangerous of the lot, winding narrow roads, mud-rock flows would be the original road is washed straight into the distorted S-type, the following is about 70 degrees into the steep slopes, bare, and all stone blocks, the road to the valley there are more than 100 meters, road mud a lot of water seepage on the mountain road walk through. Many sections is to use layers of wood, Lei Cheng match balls, covered with gravel of the sidewalk only. Of acute Bay office look down, but still a local that is the wreckage of the four big truck, which is "Death Valley" do?
Companions hurry and had no one to answer.
I was standing edge of a cliff, try to probe below, Jane immediately tight hold of me, I said dangerous, if I stumble, slide down and you will drag the. Jane had once said, that I do not open up. At the foot of gravel rolled down and smashed in the residual metal on the vehicle, issue a while people palpitation Cui Xiang.
Guo Bomi Bridge, is a very good cement road, 40 km, is the county seat of Bomi rolling wooden town. Many twists and turns, we are relieved and I have gone through the natural barrier, Jane! ! Take a look at the time was already 4.20 in the afternoon. We are starting the morning of 7.30, which actually 150 km away nine hours!
Side of the road and more of the beautiful scenery up the distant snow-capped mountains in the former, the small village of Wan Ran, the roadside is a green vegetable, clearly it is early spring, then there is the slightest shadow of it fall. Pointing to me and Jane, with praise and revel in the thick of the Spring.
Who knows, here, is dangerous in a time that we have no idea.
(15)
People say that the southern Tibet Nyingchi and Bomi is Nyingchi Jiangnan; we now are moving in the Bomi ancient village. Ancient village along the road Parhong zangbo River winds through the roadside grass slope is fluttering fluttering streamer. Xu is the most dangerous of the lot had the driver pull the more the faster the speed up.
Driving through sharp bends, nimble forward. Ahead of us, is the liberation of a large truck, loaded with the mountain cutting under the logs, are parked on the roadside repair ---- countries have long made a ban on logging, wood come from? Unknown. These trees have a diameter of 1 meter thick, and do not know how many years the growth, but under the sway of the human, a moment that has become a segment of logs. Jane pointed to the logs, not only uttered a sigh!
Sigh sound does not break, one could hear the driver exclaimed uttered "My Maya, there is no brake in!!"
My head just feel that "hum" is heard, heart Anjiao out "finished", subconscious hand hugged Jane, hand firmly withstood the front seat back. Watch as our car facing the cliff Parhong zangbo River rushed. Other people do not react, the windows broken glass scattered over the face to us, amid the screams, I think the chest was something bitter pestle a moment, and then bitter crashed into the back seat.
When I reflect over, days! Fortunately, no failure of the steering wheel car, car transporters of the bottom front of the liberation of bitter hit ---- also thanks to the wood, put our car to get stuck, or else ... ... not really want to go.
I still can be pain, Jane heavier than I hurt more than her back and striking; the front of the girl squatting on the floor, crying; other people have also suffered her face ---- everyone is injured, see our highly skilled drivers, is also looking at a way of broken glass a daze, Xu was scared, right? This time, be learned, the driver of their interests in Tibet, and later, we crossed the Mira Yamaguchi, I again tasted the bitterness of the fearless drivers, Toyota 4500 this cruiser, actually will be the steering wheel failure! ----- Their car, is complete as a tool to see what inspection and maintenance, all can be omitted! !
The following way, we are "jittery" "Khan not out of" heart with a bend in each car for each one rolling down the hill without brakes, low speed open until the most ----- In retrospect, I It really looked admire themselves, there is so much courage to re-seat car did not brake in the mountains on the go.
To the town of Bomi wooden bar, it was night. Floating thin strands of rain drift heaven, lighting has become a halo round and round, it appears increasingly lonely night together. County, the brightest signs, fear is at street level, "Xinyu Internet cafes", far away can see the signs to flicker, I Tantoutannao a look inside to see on a bored old man in the photo it appreciated Asami Kanno.
The next day woke up early, watch out the window, day shade, and white clouds, such as training, meandering in the mountainside.
Jane's feeling very bad: injured after a car accident in which she's back, and night came, more and more pain, wound up; plus days of running, her stomach has committed. While we must have a number of commonly used drugs, but when Jane way, My heart is worried about them: In this day far from the small Highland town, what we can not expect help. Jane look to see I am worried, pull my hand, smiled and repeatedly assured me it does not matter. But look at her tolerate the pain, how do I have Unable to come to. As planned, we are ready to go to Gang Xiang, and now, they simply did not go where.
It was overcast the day, at last it began to rain, people do not feel the buoyant forward, poetic dream. Each day a near day by day, but no one to talk about, if so, you can let us stay together, a moment of time. Jane's hand holding walk in the rain, walked the empty streets, each feeling the other's warm, we have no one to speak. I remember someone once said: "If she appears, she is yours. If she does not, then you never have before." At that time, a good rough disturbed mind for fear of their own never have before, but she really appears , and what should I do?
I often visualize, when the dusk has fallen,
Walk the corner, would you suddenly stop suddenly reminded me that the crowd in there who will pay attention to your face, who knows a sudden a dark moment in your heart pain, who could tell you I am today miserable and bitter about as far away from city lights, like brilliant
-------- Xi Murong "visualize"
Author: yixians
