This is a friend of the westbound diary goat mm.
Qinghai-Tibet and Nepal, part of the Sichuan-Tibet line has been placed, Xinjiang-Tibet, Yunnan-Tibet line part of the input collated.
This is touched my diary and recommend it to you.
Full-text reading, and the exciting trip photos, go to the small station http://www.datewithtibet.com
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I am still far away from heaven? "The two" text: Goat (Goat)
Lhasa and Nepal - that wood measures - camphor (Everest)
Cloudy Monday, July 10 in Lhasa
12:00 only to climb to get up much better mental state, that is, the skin is not clean.
Lhasa, the weather suddenly felt wrong, how can a little bit gloomy, and actually still raining. Naturally white, blue sky, where to go. This mysterious city gave me the first impression of the general, and not much different from other cities, but no high-rise buildings, people less Bale.
To Hachiro science, Asia hotels, auspicious days and so looked at the information, fancy two, one is to eat regularly Nam Co, one is to eat regularly Nyingchi. These hotels are all international travelers in interest rates, the visitors message is very important to Chinese, English, Japanese majority.
Ramoche slipped a couple of laps in the road, bought a military kettle, eating fried potatoes points. This is fried potatoes and Maidan Lao, "KFC" French fries are very different, the potatoes cut into pieces, deep-fried for a while, release points, the thin salt and pepper powder, OK a! Taste is not bad, LHASA anything expensive, it is not expensive potatoes, baked, deep-frying the food, here was a major snack. To see a "sister Teahouse" a little bit of curiosity, entered. Tea can be seen everywhere in the LHASA, the sale and sweet tea and butter tea.
Generally quite dark, and a few old-fashioned benches, there are better things Dianzhe. Go to the market who sold or bought something, likes to come sit in the shade. Of course, mostly male flowers, after 35 gross to buy a cup of sweet tea butter tea, watching the video, spend some time. The video is of course not here, VCD, on the kind of eighties popular boxed tapes, the content is also Hong Kong and Taiwan at the time cops and robbers film, but later translated into Tibetan language is really funny. Chow Yun-Fat Retention always felt that the separate oily mouth spit out a string of Tibetan language, strange that I am extremely uncomfortable. However, the door is often attracted to gather a large group of kids, I was the only Han Chinese, after marrying, we do not look at Chow Yun-fat, and look at me, what is good-looking, and I'm not a Cherie Chung, but also that it committed any taboo, carefully , and take a look at me, no hostility. I tasted butter tea, general, good to drink less, drink more than is tired.
I met two Tibetan boys from their primary school in English, not Chinese. Three of us it costs a great deal of force to make the war go on a temporary elimination. At least I understood their meaning, they want about me to the Lhasa River to swim to, appropriate in terms of a bath. I have one to five hours, scared to refuse, I have to find people ride it, they seem very disappointed, because the way they take the initiative and I accosted the. I had to say to them: "Good Luck!" However, I have to admit that the English level of bad. Because the majority of foreign tourists, many of Tibet's children are sent to India to study English, and then back to Lhasa in the tourism industry. They may say good English, but do not understand Chinese. For the civilian population, the Han people, like foreigners unfamiliar with big cities of course, would be a good point.
Tomorrow with a Taiwanese, Cantonese two chartered to Yangbajain with Namco, day tour, fares 350 yuan.
【Note: In Lhasa (LHASA) There are many hotels, among them Hachiro Studies (Balansholl) auspicious (Kirey) Asia (Yar) that the three self-service gathering place for travelers. Most triples, 25 yuan / day, free hot shower, free Bang Nixi clothes, and the provision of Internet services. Here to stay regardless of gender, regardless of nationality. Downstairs message board there eat regularly tourism information, as well as selling second-hand sleeping bags and tents. You may encounter a variety of people from different countries to understand them, talk with them. But 3 is not a member of the world's youth hostel. Other hotels are upscale, and the main reception group travel. 】
July 11 Tuesday Cloudy in Lhasa - when the male
A few days in Lhasa abnormal weather has been raining. The morning is not a very good mood.
Cantonese is about two couples, may be white-collar, so I shot more than generous. A middle-aged man in Taiwan, about 40 years old. The four of us to go with the Nam Co (Namso). The driver is a typical Tibetan people, outspoken. The four of us so called: Guangdong males and Stifen, woman, Joan, the Taiwan people and old Soviet Union, I am a goat.
The first stop was Yangbajain geothermal, I only see that far away to take the heat, like crack pipes on the ground in general. Naturally hot springs, but too expensive, I stroll to the old Soviet Union their own. Couples then went bathing in hot springs.
Here already we can see snow-capped mountains, and just because thick clouds, it is better imagined as clear. Allowed to gaze longingly that there are villages point I want to shoot photos, about half an hour away. Tibetan people are very friendly, cars from the front of them through, they always Yangyang Shou, say hello. We will also Yangyang Shou, and smiled. Especially the Tibetan children, they stand in the stone back, allowed to gaze longingly to us, Yangyang Shou, exposing white teeth, it is an innocent smile. Well until we went far away, their little hands are still visible. Sometimes, there will be women and children sitting on the roadside, a car after they went on the road, was raised high in the hands of the bag, which stood fresh mushrooms, as well as wild oranges, they want to passers-by to sell. If we do not stop, Yang Yangshou watched us go.
Anyway, I walked to the top of the hill villages. This is a very, very small village, only about a dozen families, each almost always a few houses, with a long wall of circle into a square. Usually round stone walls piled up mud and do not, but it is neat, like building blocks, the top with cow dung and branches piled. Also, some people will like the dung heap, like Chaiduo up to prepare for winter heating making tea with. I recently sent an open seeing a woman picking up cow dung, carrying her big basket, holding a clip, dish back a lost cow dung, cow dung is quasi-has fallen upon the basket inside. Wet cow dung is the smell and taste a little dry on the no. Usually wet cow dung on the wall, and so dry, and then stored for a cake like a very cute. Most of the manure does not stink grass, there is the taste of fresh grass, people that can not be the same. Hidden room on the roof are often hung colorful streamer, the wind dancing, very eye-catching. The door, there are mostly rock pile, placed above the sheep bones, Hada the like, which is a blessing for security and peace symbol. I saw a door curtain is very interesting, see go and no one, picking up a camera to shoot. Not pressed the shutter, you hear women screaming, I looked and saw a Tibetan woman led a girl walking, walking and waved our red, and so they approached, and I use the Chinese, said: "I can According to a relative? "she unfriendly said:" give money! give you the money! "I'm stunned horror, fled. Later, a few random photos on the back, and really feel disappointed. How would "give money, give money" mean? There is no mistake.
Than Namco evening rush, and we settled in when the male living in the Tao Ban, Ki extremely poor, but also 15 yuan, we are desperate to bargain only a few dollars less. The results also angered the driver angry. Called the grid to the driver, it is necessary that one of his faults, he always thought that must be wealthy tourists, so like us in order to wear a few pieces of money for a long time who he was particularly objectionable. Though Later, I spent nearly 2 hours of time to self-help tourists about the hardships he was, he is still is no Zhuanguo Wan, I had to give up.
【Note: The highways maintenance teams are able to provide residential service】
The evening meal eat dinner, patch, 6 yuan, with the old Soviet Union with the food. The need to tell us about the old Soviet Union, Taipei, extra baggage, appearance in general, and fond of travel, unmarried, advertising signs professions. Annual work period of time travel. Three years ago, to the Mainland for fun, and specifically to the remote's Office, there are adventurous, and the mode of travel exactly like me. Jie Wei hard class self-help travel. I liked him, because such travel have fun, I do not know whether there is the opportunity of the future look for adventure path.
Ali spoke with the driver way trip, he only 26,000 yuan, and Baochibaozhu South Line to the north line of back, 20 days or so. Otherwise I have been contradictory to go, money is not a problem, I can borrow, and sponsorship, the main is time. Back to about August 10, it may Everest do not go, white border card has also organized. And then from the north line to Chengdu, the Sichuan-Tibet, about August 17, from Chengdu to go home around August 20. 10 minutes consideration, I have to make a choice, go Ali! Go back on the 13th so I'll paste ads, starting on the 18th. As the lead person's risk of getting bigger, and try it!
Wednesday, July 12 Cloudy Namtso
Early in the morning went to Nam Co.
Ba into the car from the valley, along the path forward. Are both slowly on both sides of hills, covered with greenery, there are a few steps across nomadic tents, braving the smoke, very warm feeling. Yang Er, geraniol, an early drive out of pasture land decorated spots in the mountains. Roadside stream flowing really fairyland, Xanadu.
And then run uphill OK for a while, went to the snow line of the. Last night down the snow on either side of the mountain had been covered with snow. Began as the Peak, and then the mountainside, finally close enough we can almost within reach. Of course, cold weather, the car heating has also opened, I could not even ask the driver could stop taking pictures, he always said that for a while, kicking up my mind is very worried.
Suddenly, the road turns and, to a draft, cars stop. In front of a display in front of the Great Lakes, green light blue clip embedded in between the hills. My God! Namso!! Namso!! Namso!!! I am disregarding nearly 5,000 meters above sea level and cold, and the old Soviet Union out of cars at the same time. Alas! I am almost frozen to death, and wind clip snow, snow pedal. Ren Ren bar! In order to Namco. However, it is the highest elevation lake in China, is China's second largest saltwater lake, about 4700 meters above sea level. Yamaguchi has a huge Mani Dui, it must be faithful to the Namco distinguished expressed. I hasten to captured some photos. Later, after another tour of the two cars. Namso so beautiful! I have looked far it is difficult to believe what really was the existence of such a lake, squeezed in between the hills, floating on the ground, unexpected beauty. Alas! Life-saving!
To continue to drive, day began to clear up, and we shouted good luck. To a settled system, and I live in tents with the old Soviet Union, 15 yuan, 10 yuan lower than the room, but will certainly be very cold at night. Try it!
I ranged them to a dinner, we carrying the camera went to look for happiness. There's a little Tashi Temple, there is a nun living in here, I have been from her, used the phrase "bow Kamu Sang" she said with a smile to my Road, the sound "bow Kamu Sang." I walked along a mountain lake, where everywhere Mani Dui, some more than just a pile of rocks! Tibetan people might be reluctant to dissipate into the atmosphere on the ground to see a rock bar! Always they are a fast reactor up and promised would like. Stone, there is no adhesive is completely out of a sincere and straight to legislate with, and sometimes you even suspect that it will collapse in one breath blowing, but they actually stood the ups and downs of the scrub, and some even for decades legislation . This is a force.
I climbed a small cave. There is a mound, was placed a number of large stones, above inscribed with the Tibetan, "the sixth mantra" and the words of blessing. There are several not carved in stone, but carved horn, the 78 horns rows together, Yi Gu own dignity. Sometimes I also saw claw, side by side with Hatta's. Although I would like to take a stone back, but I also know that this is guilty of Tibetan taboo. Nothing,拍几张照片on the list. I took a small stone and gently placed next to quietly away. Far back, small stones placed there for the world to say all the good people safe, fun bar!
Namco may be due to high elevation, away from the crowd, able to maintain to be so clear, this blue bar! Survived thanks to their good luck. Approaching Namso is not at peace, the water can form a small wave washed ashore. Water is ice, is also very clear, color from light blue to widen gradually with distance deeper, you may want to storm the next. An accumulation of vast areas of sky dark clouds gradually spread, expansion, until it enveloped the lake, about the atmosphere of the infection, the lake is also a slight surging up. It is no longer blue, change a little bit dark, and Tianshui same color. You suddenly feel that they are insignificant in the face of every slight move naturally, you look weak. Strong winds, I am standing is not very solid, but I would like to cry, I want to Namso to say I love him, I worship him, I would like to cry for him. The unnamed lake bird coming and going, very surprised to see me, leaving a clear crisp voice.
Lake, there are always countless piles of small stones, which is how many people desire呀!
Plateau sudden change in weather days you can instantly clear up a bit dark down, the temperature dropped, wind, rain, I Lian Manggan back. In fact, I prefer this weather, so a form of protection for Namso呀! Looking at the snow-capped mountains across the lake has long been hidden in the clouds, I am happy too laugh.
Everyone in the kitchen talk, and I sat down. Now, I am familiar with the grid to the driver Hunde, he Zhijiao I recognized him as godfather. Gathered here, a lot of Tibetan children, we have different languages, they told me straight "Hello" and "OK", kicking me laugh, and then they laughed. A girl look at my diary, pointed to my pen, I showed her, surprise, she received a robe to go inside, and no longer come up with, I was dumbfounding. Then she pointed at my backpack on a small mouse, vertical Shutaimuzhi, scared, I panicked, not knowing what to say. God bless! She put up his fingers ran out, a false alarm. However, the moment the girl came running and boast of a good pen, I write to thank me, while she was singing while dancing, I am so flattered Lianhu 3 "Thank you." Have been raining outside, I had to stay in the kitchen. Several colleagues have become "frozen Peak group".
Night, because only I and the old Soviet Union to sleep tent, so we have enough blankets, thick Crimping, so I lost a middle of the night, That better. The wind, the rain I have heard Eventually, sleep very comfortable.
Thursday, July 13 Cloudy - rain Namtso
Nam Co is not a quiet morning, flooding is still the impact of lakeshore, issued crisp sound. White or black bird was awakened by my feet, Yiming the sky, and then slowly flying, with beautiful wings flap, draw a beautiful arc in the sky, I really do not want those dreams awakened angels hastened the pace of recovery returned to walking.
The sky is overcast, and the distant snow-capped mountains can still be seen, Namco lying here, several thousand a few years of. I do not know if it did not awake at this time, I just quietly watched, quietly listening.
Vehicle launched. Goodbye Namtso! You are still sleeping bar! Maybe I will see you in the future. Multi-I hope you will always have clear, so blue, I am even willing you are isolated in this secular world, it is necessary to maintain the beauty like you is really too difficult. Hallo! Baby, sleep!
Passing a school, I stopped five Tibetan boy, hoping to take photographs, they are willing to the. Afterwards they were rushed to ask for money, my whole body looking for, find the half-skin peanuts, hands as a reward, they are happy to accept it had. In fact, I very much want to make people photos, afraid of violating them, there is fear that they would ask for a lot of money.
Long night stay at 8 study, together with the old Soviet Union, while the other ran into a travel partner hear his name, three to a Tibet House restaurant for dinner. 啦and Sri Lanka are yogurt, beef, beef dumplings, steamed buns, highland barley wine taste too bad either, because Hun Fan is nothing more than a bowl of rice dishes plus a dish, and the rice hard, it is said to be Thai rice. At least, in addition to more than flies, which eat a ton Tibetan meal is still relatively good.
Tibet did not produce fruit, so watermelon, apples are very expensive, unlike in Xinjiang. I'm here to point no fruit to eat, luckily I brought the spoon to eat melon ready to dig.
I posted a call to Ali's note, want someone to join. Long a lot of insight here, at least let me have a greater interest in self-help travel.
Friday, July 14 in Lhasa clear
I learn to move from eight auspicious Lang, in fact, are similar, but auspicious bathing only 9:30 into the night.
The original to the Potala Palace, But when it comes to women selling jewelry I can not stand, and once bought a six necklaces, two bracelets, a ring, everything is very good-looking, I could not wait to buy down.
This is a direct result of the matter is my 12-point leads to the Potala Palace, and was told 3:30 p.m. before the door, this is the first time I met attractions lunch break situation.
There is no way, I stood Plaza (in front of the Potala Palace) photographed figure photo, psychological very afraid, people found to always be the bad thing, if forced to spend money on what gives people on the death. So I did not dare to approach the target, looks are not very good results. Most of the elderly and the rest beggars.
At noon the weather good, I have come to the Potala Palace, a few panoramic images, casually stroll by visiting the small market here. Lhasa, though remote, but the social life of the most popular things that can be found. Han Chinese and Tibetan costumes vary greatly, showing the difference between the two civilizations. From the Tibetans who alone can also reflect that, they are often dressed in national costume, but wearing shoes or a fake Nike shoes. I bought a barbecuing potatoes, while walking stroll.
To open the door of time, I quickly boarded the cloth Palace. In the inside to go around here, I was the first all lost consciousness. Somewhat familiar with the original configuration of Bureau almost forgotten. V Dalai Lama to Tibetan theocracy, so the volume up to the pagoda of gold, up to 3721 kilograms, pearl on the 10000, special luxury, brilliant. Other Dalai Lama in general. In fact, almost here with the Tar. It is worth mentioning that at the sub-Pala Kang, I met an American, he was 83 years in China learning Chinese, Tibetan, it is only to study Tibetan religion. He special value me, because I understand religion, Tibet. Kannon hall, he hid the day, pour holy water. I really admire him. We talked for about an hour, on the history of Tibetan religion, and his Mandarin Chinese is very good.
Lang returned to eight hours, someone should I note, however, disagree, and tomorrow, then.
Back to the auspicious day, a Japanese roommate lying down because of altitude sickness, we use English chat for a while.
【Note: introduce the Potala Palace, located at an altitude of 3770 was built on Mount Putuo 7AD, dividend Palace and the White House, the Red Palace is the pagoda of the palace, the White House is the chambers, containing a large number of artifacts, jewelry, frescoes, by the book, in addition to sub-par Lacan and Zao hole, others are later built one after another. Generally open to visitors only eight rooms, and the monks accompanied, open a room and see a room, lock a room filled with thick butter flavor, secretly, and the wall powder faint light, That's a wealth of history, a whole wall full wall murals, Buddhist scriptures about the human search for good stories. About Tibet's history, about the spread of Buddhism in Tibet and experience. Huge Buddha statues, a 1, countless scriptures ... ...】
Rain on Saturday, July 15 - sunny - rain Lhasa
This is normal in Lhasa in the morning rain to ten points, seven in the afternoon will be sunny to rain again.
Because the rain has caused me to sleep until 10 o'clock yourself. The Japanese are also roommate woke up today, he felt much better. Another roommate of the East boys to come back very late last night and today morning after only one face to face and went, but one would see that he is very Handsome. I had nothing better with the Japanese, while eating breakfast talk. He's spoken a lot better than I do, I sometimes can Minato word, but obviously found himself speaking of progress, a lot. In Tibet, because a lot of foreign tourists, so English is very common in most hotels, restaurants are in English and Tibetan, Chinese language down a nutshell. He has in many parts of the tour of China.
See the great sunny day, we received a good inert, separately operations, he is about visiting the eight Gallery Street, and I went to the Jokhang Temple. Out the door before the Jokhang Temple is estimated to have up and take a nap, but also discouraged them. Passing through telephone booth, by the way I called to the home phone. Mama do not cry I hear it is to Ali, the day I went to Big Brother to know Ali, estimated to be checked the next day map, know that Ali is a sparsely populated area, so two brother and mother, my father secretly decided to anyway Do not let the Man Zhu I went to Ali. Especially the mother, one can not give 20 days, call home, how she did not agree. What I do? People also can not find no way to go. Hong Hong elderly people had to think and not the!
Look at the time still early, I visited the gallery visiting the eight Street, where things everything, especially Cangshi things, I like every kind. But the price could be very tactful, asking price twenty to thirty something, you can usually buy 78 yuan, according to this price I currently have six necklaces, 5 bracelets, a ring, a scarf, it is estimated in the future to buy something inferior to this. However, Looking back, the small cloth Miyamae trafficking is still cheaper to get, to try his luck still empty. Counter-offer in Tibet, rest assured, those Tibetan women see you first, said: "Hello", say Japanese, "Moximoxi," say the Chinese language "Look at the Well, cheap cheap!" You stop and ask how much She reportedly had a high price, you are sure that expensive, want to go, they will surely be anxious, and quickly said: "You you had any brains, you say a price!" Are you deliberately undaunted, "It does not matter, you you had any brains, you say how much money ! "Then you say only the asking price of a one-tenth of the price, they will be screaming:" Oh! capital does not exist, you say Well, properly speaking, a good speaking! "seek to, but also to go, until a mutually satisfactory, He really can not accept your price will not be angry, just smiled: "Thank you, then." You do not have to worry about a low-cost will discuss bashing.
Jokhang Temple is not a matter of fact, my information is very detailed, so it's easier. In the ticket window I Shi Lege little tricks, it mixed the past, saving 25 yuan. First of all to the top of the photo-taking of a few cloth Palace panorama, and then to visit the Basilica in chambers. Jokhang Temple was built in the seventh century AD, is found to Princess Wen Cheng divination of Tibet to the image of a supine Rakshasa woman, it was decided to construct a temple in its heart of the order to the benefit of the town of magic for Tibet. Later built Ramoche, is Nepal's princess red statue built since then Buddhism, such as Tibet, began to replace Bon. Married two princesses, the Songtsan were obtained as a dowry of Sakyamuni, as two life-sized, 8-year-old life-sized, as in Ramoche Temple, destroyed during the Cultural Revolution for the two cross-sectional, 12-year-old life-sized, as is currently kept in the Jokhang Temple reportedly left a 25-year-old life-sized, as in India, civil society, did not find the exact whereabouts. Therefore, the Jokhang Temple in this it can be said only more clear, as indeed has become Sakyamuni believers around the world, regardless of hard work, an important pilgrimage to Lhasa why. Lhasa intent Lha Sha, said the sheep pack territory, and because the construction of the Jokhang Temple used when a number of sheep pack territories, the Jokhang Temple was completed, all the faithful to worship, it was renamed in Lhasa, saying "holy land" was intended.
I took the information to see while walking, for a strong religious atmosphere in Tibet, and if you do not quite understand the cultural historical background, then you are white come. Lhasa, the faithful of many attractions morning, open all the doors open, while the afternoon for the visitors, and many temple was locked with chains, and can not only be Lex nearly tours also! According to the book explains: the Gelug Sect of the disciples of Master Tsongkhapa Dalai Lama is the incarnation of Goddess of Mercy, while the Panchen Lama is the embodiment of boundless Guangfo. Panchen Lama, the Dalai Lama is a Mongolian, the former master, the latter meaning the sea. The 33 World Tsan Wang Tsenpo Songtsan is the incarnation of Goddess of Mercy. To teach in Tibet, none of us mere mortals immortal points, only the consciousness of the Buddha, Bodhisattva of the points, which also refers to people.
Temple there are a large number of murals, but the long years and due to smoke, the upper has been blurred, I tried to shoot a few have been effective if I do not know. About 6:00 or so, many people began to have a tacit agreement temple clockwise walk around the Mani wheel, which is transferred by the time the temple. Through sub-turn here, turn and small forward, big gallery Street to 8, more later point, the small to Temple, and breakfast. Note that all of the Tibetan Buddhist circles all the time Shun turn, Bon was counterclockwise, the wrong you have trouble. While shaking their turn while the sixth mantra while read: "Um, Well, then, pit, microphones, moo." I knew the switch to join the ranks of the classics, this is beyond our control, their sincerity into a force, people irresistible. Many have families with family belongings to the family pilgrimage, and in the future I ride away from the northern Sichuan, it is likely to do with them go the same way.
The main entrance to the Jokhang Temple in the evening there will be many believers life-sized kneeling prayer, tireless. I hide in a corner and secretly selected angles to take pictures, but now get special care, often come across to you for money to do it is impossible for you are not around, I am embarrassed by immediately felt a little photo shoot to the value of nothing. But today, I fancy a wife and mother, she does not take money, I took a few good places. At the end, I feel quite embarrassed, and will be on hand with a ring to her, the old lady blanket How many pieces the teeth of the mouth stop laughing.
About 7:00 p.m. to 8:00 pm, 8 Gallery Street by turning the time is up, the crowd surging clockwise so that you can not walk according to their own line, in addition to, and they are a peer. Whether young and old, everyone is very conscious of the things put down and remembered a few lines by turning the sixth, many of them monks. Maybe some people have do not quite understand the meaning of turning them only as a form of side turn while talking same old people who may be very serious, serious. I do not know the shadow of religion whether the shadow of the Tibetan heart is weakening. For me, has given way to turn by the turn out was I could not Parknor Street, together with the two patrolmen before they stumbled ran back auspicious day come.
The room came a young Czech boy, my English is even more not enough anymore.
After the encounter looking for a hot bath, I talk to Ali three things, two from Fujian, one from Nanjing, but had different interests, give up the idea. Huang yesterday fell through a small link.
And the old Soviet Union is something to talk about Ali, met with the ride from Shanghai to Xining, three men and a woman, three men lived next door to me, what is a woman named Jane live in the outside, they liked the Ali, but he counted the number was still is not enough.
The old Soviet Union said that tourism should revel. This time, I and Ali have?
July 16 Sunday clear Lhasa
It had nothing better, I think, or go to a temple play, select the Sera Monastery. Sera full name of the Mahayana Island, in the northeast corner of La Wuzi Lhasa foot of the mountains. I intend to rent a bicycle to go, and a nearby Xiuju Pu said yes 2 yuan / hour price.
Along Beijing Road, approaching the penultimate cloth Palace crossroads Shui, this is your mother hot road, about 3 km or go straight to the Sera Monastery. Temple in Lhasa on the morning of believers open in the afternoon open to visitors, so when I visited there is no need for Mai Menpiao. Today coincides with Sunday, a monk had to be chanting to 3:00. Approached from the main entrance will see a lot of shoes on the front, that was wonderful pieces of things, many shoes, sports shoes, and then the shoes, very few traditional lama shoes, you have to wonder the impact of modern culture, the intensity of .
Hall is a center of the old lama Duizhehuatong chanting, the following rows of seated monks, the elderly in the front ranks of young post. Usually a low voice with the old monks who had studied, the height of the loud, the end of a verse will be applauded when the sound, very neat, "Papa Pa" several times, and then re-start a new section of Scripture. Believers took butter lamps around the hall, moving clockwise, to the hall around the butter lamps Tim oil, we encounter a major point in Buddha Hall, they will donate the money, mostly from the bank in exchange for a brand-new hair, Ermao, 1, two of the coins face to the Buddha on the plug and threw it to go. Some believers bought many of Hada, Hada thrown into the hands of Buddha, his body. Elderly people in general also used the first Taiwan bumper worship Buddha shrine, to show Geely. I sat quietly, and some believers Hall corner, listening to monks chant scriptures, of course, I did listen to cloth understand, just think that this atmosphere is very interesting. However, the young monks chanting as if the ground is not too old, and occasionally Dadanaonao or purported to visitors and followers, in which I saw with the youngest just 12-year-old can not let him sit for so long is not because Parts are easy. Tibetans around the believers would be very serious, whispered to follows to read. Approximately 11 points, the rest of them, hair tsampa eat. This tsampa is worship Buddha, and shape into peach-type. I am very fortunate to be allocated one ate a few mouthfuls of taste in general, but it leads people to suspect that a week ago to do. Followed by fat fruit, what date is about an offering of fruit within a week believers. They gave me a lot of points above a lot of ash, oil, I really did not taste, and quickly to Bianbian an Aunt, and she can be happy again. Then continued chanting, around 2:00 pm we were eating lunch, then each of lamas from the big bowl of red clothes to work out, the monk points from the kitchen. Their hands to eat, had to lick clean way finished. Some of the older monks also took out the bag from the clothes will install a good bowl of food away. They think I am quite hit it about, and also let me eat a bowl. Food is potatoes, dry powder, beef mixture, nutrition properly, very good. I hand dig the potatoes and beef to eat, not eating, an enthusiastic monks dealt the I bowl, I really was forcing himself to eat it, and holding up I am speechless, and also really anxious to find out exit onto the bag. Monks have finished their meal and began sweeping. The first monk sweeping the floor with a small broom, and then to the second place, followed by pass. Kitchen Zuoshi lamas were not idle, holding a pot of water, giving them a symbolic hand-washing. After all, they got up and started around the hall, turning in circles, Turning turning on to go outside, and wear shoes rest go. About the whole process is like that.
I'm full enough to drink, and turn a few laps around the temple, shot after the hill LITHOGLYPHS points, but also to go back. Because it has always been remembered, kept trained on the top cowboy hat, I ride into the possession of the stall cruise near the hospital. This cowboy hat is like wearing a cowboy was the kind of, the Mainland rare. Once, I asked a child wearing a hat like his father, he said that can be bought here, but I did not see that eventually Eurya a lot of jewelry back to the auspicious day. Bale fills the future do not buy, and hand-decorated so beautiful, a lot of money.
The Hachiro study was also car, met a boy in Guangdong and go off to the camphor wood, I would like to stay in Lhasa is also quite meaningless. Quickly find a place Wan Ba! First went to Zhangmu! I'm looking for a small bell to go on the train who is a girl. A small clock in the stalls to eat stir-fried dry, met shout at me, I went to a camphor wood, hit it off instantly. She said there are places to go to friends called Wolf, but the small bell to play a few phone, never see back. I first ran a bath, and my heart would like it to play the old thing. From the bathroom out of the door to see two women and one man even asked to go Zhangmu not, who dressed like a cowboy boys agree, I dragged him straight back to run, but, far away a small bell on the blame Why did he not return phone , the world is such a clever thing, this boy is a wolf. We have four, and of course I mean is the best five people, less cost-sharing, but, they want comfortable point, and can not find like-minded persons, no problem.
The next question to find drivers, I have a few question, is not busy is high prices, we also Xianfan. Wolf suggested that we should to the night market to eat barbecue, playing the past, eating a point of barbecue, went to Hachiro learning and talked about the boy who Guangdong. No information is available, Guangdong boys, today only that, a bit of altitude sickness. Zhong Dao Shi a little girl of strong character, but often do not speak, she wanted to do, I always think that she is too strong personalization.
And wolves, the small bell, as well as boys who live in Guangdong, I would not afraid of something else, but I used the money is not as generous as they are, my savings and they could not come together. It's just a problem.
Monday, July 17 in Lhasa clear
Early in the morning came the wolf, saying that cars look good, is not hostels, and 10 days, 4500. I think it is still quite expensive, but also do not want to stop too long in Lhasa, agreed. They do border on the travel card, I was auspicious day break.
Czech guy roommate to come back very late last night and today at the hotel resting, he is a man, it is estimated exit from camphor wood. Sir Daoshi who talked Tingduo of Japan. He is also a person, profession is Proffesor driver, specifically Why I am not sure, but he resigned intended to stay in China for 2 months, usually to shop, travel, sun, eat fruit flies comfortable, non - yourself tired. I remember the first day to see him sick, give him to eat hard tack, glucose and milk tablets, he was suddenly at hand. Later, China and Italy in particular these three things, I gave him a bag of glucose, Stifen travel time to leave me some hard tack and glucose. Sir extremely happy, then shopping is very attention to these things, clinical, and also allowed to buy, except that instead of milk, milk powder tablets. I heard that night to move Zhaxidajie go, he was quite sad, we comfort each other after 10 days may be good-bye, and then each said, See you!
Rooms are already retired, and I will move to the old Soviet Union, where the first thing to go, he and others tomorrow to "81" day tour and not Ali, perhaps B to Kunming, it should be difficult to meet the.
The old Soviet roommate a boy from Fujian Gutian estimated to eat into the Tibet-point pain Lha Sha intends to swim on the back.
Do not feel dejected to mention play to go with the old Soviet Union to beat people to the Jokhang Temple. Had nothing better to hide in a corner inside a human being becomes, look at what eyesore on the film which, some monks hid the camera to see if we get one side, know that we take pictures, they will certainly know they are very likely on the mirror travel. Began to always be filled with if nothing had happened, or serious about it, waiting for you Aiming good, or ready to press the shutter, he would suddenly turn around, hee hee laugh: "give money, donate money for the Buddha.", Or waiting for you "Kacha" sound, and then stretched over a pair of black hands, natural smile. I am most disgusted with the old Soviet Union or with the lamas of Tibetan lamas have similar behavior, even if he then pretend to be natural, naive, passionate way I still can not press the shutter.我情愿等，等到我希望的画面出现，激动地拿出相机，调整快门对焦，屏住呼吸，“咔嚓”一声，凝固生活，定格美丽。从相机看到快门迅速刷过，呼出一口气，我知道，我又拥有了一笔财富。这种心情只有自己知道，也只有这时，你会发现，所有的付出都不屑一顾了。当然，也有老人不喜欢照像，他们认为他们的所作是神圣的，而不是一种演戏或排练。他们会看我们，然后指指自己，再摇摇头，我很尊重他们的想法，我会用手指指相机，再摆摆手，微笑地看着他们。当然，不会再照他们。肚子一阵不舒服，好几天没有正常吃饭了。我连忙坐在地上祈祷，实在挺不住了，跌跌撞撞让老苏给扶回吉日了。
（有必要介绍同伴：Wolf齐，男，20岁，北京人，在芬兰学计算机，父母是教师，家庭富裕，出手大方，讨厌上海人，搞过一段时间音乐，说话50%是牛B和“妈的”；梁坚，男，广东人，在深圳国土局工作，白领阶层；小钟，女，室内设计中专生，家庭富裕）。与三人约好六点在SNOWLAND Hotel与司机见面，我忍着腹痛赶过去。旅行社态度一般，车还没找好。我们几个特别是我，是很注重细节的主儿，将合同改了又改。小姐不高兴了，嫌我们烦，好几分钟不理我们，在我们大声抗议下才签了合同。这时候又出现麻烦的事！边境证没办下来，公安局今天开会！我们四个哭爹骂娘了一会儿，小姐说明天12点出发！其实开会是假的，因为前二天有人从樟木偷越境，故边境证难办。
【注：SUOWLAND中文“雪域宾馆”我们去樟木的车是该馆旅行社介绍的。 】
梁坚说他请客在友谊藏餐。我挺不愿意去的，这几个人凑在一块，钱花得很厉害。梁坚工作了，另外二位有父母后援团，我会比较惨点！但他们又不愿意我脱离群众，以后十天相处会有点麻烦。
狼说他买了二十卷纸，若干饮料与方便面，拿他一点办法都没有。
老苏明天去“八一”，三天回来，然后直贡、羊湖，飞到成都，玩云南。我们很有可能见不到面了，晚上逛了逛夜市。我没去扎西达杰，在老苏那儿凑了一晚。
7月18日星期二晴拉萨
这是二十天来第一次吃稀饭加油条！然后送老苏上车，我们很简单地说声再见就分别了。没等车开走，我就走了。老苏是个很好的旅伴，很适合我，我不想这么快就与他分开。但对于旅行者来说，分别是太正常不过的事。
回到吉日，我收拾东西，准备和他们汇合。日本Sir跑来和我道别，他三日后去日喀则，很可能从尼泊尔出境。他很感激我的三宝：葡萄糖、奶片和压缩饼干。我们微笑地互相说：“See you!”
已经没有时间和旅行社交涉了，开始说12点办证。后来推到四点。六点时我们拿到边境证，但是被告知没有车，我们软硬都施了，也是没用，唯一的办法是等一天。我这人特不相信旅行社，不过他们没有边境证，只能通过旅行社办理。 Alas!我在拉萨都呆了六天了，哪都去不了，真没劲！
阿里这次八成是去不了了。 28日回来，去三天桑耶和直贡寺看天葬去，或是去八一，然后从川北线去成都。至于阿里，想明年到乌市、去哈那斯湖，再到叶城，从叶城搭车走阿里线，我想这样的安排比较好。后来情况了解到，也证实我的路线安排较合理。如果你包车去，若不自带帐篷的话，活动自由受很大的限制。若同行者非志同道合，你也会感到很失败。刚好去年走丝路时，没去哈那斯湖，所以我索性从新疆入藏，滇藏线出来，自带帐篷，搭顺风车和步行。这样玩起来又省钱又过瘾。上帝保佑我明年有个好假期。
7月19日星期三晴拉萨—浪卡子
一个好天气，却没有好消息。
我们四人打算吃饱早饭到SNOWLAND Hotel打架去。到了宾馆的大院，看到四辆车停着，我们沸点上升，对小姐的态度好了起来。不料随着时间的推移，一辆辆车从我们视野中消失，不由地让我们心慌起来，赶紧问小姐。她慢悠悠地说车拿去修了，没回来。这下我们才知道事情并未好转，十二点以前是走不了了。昨天一位老外相机丢在吉普车上，也是嫌工作人员怠慢，气得暴跳如雷。我们一听没戏，逛街去了。
我们戏称在T，人都会变呆，这里生活节奏其慢无比。早上9：30—12：30上班，下午3：30—6：30，去饭馆吃饭等一个小时菜才烧好。现在我们四个简直也酷似呆若木鸡状。
逛街的时候，看到二位喇嘛在行乞，我示意照像，他们同意，但要求布施。我不同角度拍了三张，给了他们五毛钱。当我起身要离去，一位年长的信徒很不高兴地对着喇嘛大叫，大约的意思是觉得他们这样做不合适，然后朝我摆摆手，吐吐舌头作了一个姿势，我虽然不懂什么意思，但我至少清楚是对我的一种鄙视，一种不欢迎。我不安地看了看二位喇嘛，他们无奈地笑笑。我却非常惭愧地收起相机，走了，老信徒是对的，我的作法冲撞了他的固有理念。而我做错了吗？我很善意地征求他们的意见，也仅仅因为拍照是我的爱好！那是谁的错呢？也许谁都没错，二个正确的事物之间也可以存在相互排斥的因素。
Good news for me!11点钟，我被通知出车。 Go to trip!第一站的目的地是浪卡子，羊卓雍错边的小县。丰田62在冈巴拉山山脚下很艰难地爬行，我知道山的那边是美丽的羊湖。看湖的前提是翻山，在Tibet你很难看到笔直的公路，山路总是S形的，很险、很窄，很让你心跳，你不知不觉地爬山，不知不觉地登高，不知不觉你离天近了，很近了。这可是五千多米的海拔呀！低头一看，下面的卡车像玩具一样缓缓爬行，从垂直方向看，好象只是十几米，但精确地算来它追上我们还得花半小时呢？
到了山头，我们看到了一个巨大的玛尼堆，几位小孩在玩石头。 “哗！”同行者小钟先发声，我们循声而看，一个很有曲线美的湖展现在我们面前。说她是湖，她真的不大，与纳木错完全不同。她静，她有许多触角，她不是广面的延伸，她只是用蓝色的液体去触摸绿色的大地，很小心翼翼得探寻、探寻，完全没有占有的欲望。羊湖的水蓝色，有很多层的蓝，顺着弯弯曲曲的山谷向远处延伸，不如叫它洋溪吧！很秀丽的自然画面。岸边是黄色的油菜花和粉红色的青稞，大片大片的，倒映在蓝色的湖面上，像墙上抽象的油彩画很秀丽的自然画面。偶尔，你还会听到远处飘飘渺的歌声，这种情形只有用心去感觉，语音文字显得多余。
玛尼堆的女孩非常纯真，她们二个小姐妹甜甜地笑，和我手握手，很调皮地抱着我，三个大女孩小女孩无所顾忌地大笑。其中一位女孩的哥哥拿着一元钱的硬币叫我们换纸币，因为硬币在Tibet不通用。
顺着羊湖，我们很愉快地行军一小时，到了浪卡子县，狼住旅馆，我们其他三个人住小钟的帐篷，帐篷搭在羊湖边。狼大约觉得也没劲，就奔过来与我们共进晚餐，很丰富的零食晚餐，还有羊湖边牛羊的欢舞，还有光屁股的藏族孩子在唱歌。那时的天特别蓝，云特别白，我们感动地哭了。这样活着，有什么好不值得！
夜黑了，我、小钟、梁坚三人点着蜡烛，写日记、谈天，谈我们的旅游经历。帐篷外面有牧羊犬的叫声、鸟叫声、拖拉机是声音，偶尔有小东西拱我们的小门。
7月20日星期四晴—转雨浪卡子—日喀则
其实昨夜睡得并不好，因为我和小钟同挤于一个睡袋，不好睡。半夜一有什么风吹草动，梁坚就起来查看。后半夜又下起雨来，叭叭地直打帐篷，我一直睡不着觉。狼与师傅开车来接我们，我们自然连夸昨日睡得好。
车开出浪卡子，我们与羊湖告别了。继续在土路上奔行着，前站是江孜。一路风景依旧，路过一处冰川，规模不大，后来爬到海拔为4330M的斯拉米山口，我们看到了一个湖，因为拦水坝而存在，不是非常著名，我已不知道他的名字，但他很美，让我联想到天山天池，凝固的秀气。更难得的是遍地的野花，我以花为前景，湖为背景拍了张照。
到江孜已是下午2点，我们吃了饭原本要到白云寺，这里是兼容了萨迦、格鲁、嗝当三家教派的寺庙，内有一座白色的佛塔，因为Ticket Price为30元，我们放弃了。后来司机说下午三点有半赛马会，我们又提起兴奋来，跟着师傅翻山越沟，到了一个山顶，看下面运动场举行的赛马会。山下是一个不规则的封闭跑道，又许多匹马在一旁，据说是出售的。山顶上早已站满了人，许多妇女都是盛装而出，带着自己的美丽与小点心，边谈天边看赛马。狼使命盯着人家身上的首饰看，而我则寻机会拍人物。后来，赛马开始了，由于我们嫌马跑得太慢，起哄赶路，酷爱看马塞的师傅无可奈何地跟我们下山了。不是我们太叼，那马肥得流油，慢得像猪，让人大倒胃口。居然有人特地从拉萨赶来看，想不通。
当晚宿于日咯则的桑珠孜饭店，我嫌25元的房价太贵，没订下来，跑了大半天找不到更便宜的，只好作罢，心中暗暗心疼了半天。有时因为我的消费水平影响了狼他们三个的情绪，我心里有点不好受。但我实在无法和他们比，经济情况不同，下回去桑耶与直贡，我想自己去了。
日喀则是西藏第二大城市，却没有一家IC卡电话机，我无法与二哥通电话，但我却找到一家很便宜的超市。我不开心的时候，很喜欢买东西吃。
By the way，白云寺的旁边有一座古城叫江孜古城。我从对面的山上望去，黑色云层的笼罩上，几座风烛残年的建筑立于黄色的山头。我有点体会到了历史的悲哀。
7月21日星期五雨日喀则-定日
扎什伦布寺，1477年宗喀巴高徒一世达赖根敦珠巴所建，是日喀则的象征，位于市区的西部。早上八点多钟我们就到了寺门口，可惜今天喇嘛没念经，我们只好顺道看看了。扎寺是黄教六大名寺之一，里面有九至九世班禅的灵塔，四世和十世的灵塔，其中以十世班禅灵塔最为辉煌。扎寺有个最大的特点-狗多，到处可见各式各样的牧羊犬睡在一边，令游人产生不安之感。我怀疑超过一百只。
中午经拉孜县只作短暂停留，继续赶往定日县。这一段路是很难走的，拉孜的东西非常贵，通电才十几天，没有自来水。这里的青菜比猪肉还贵，吃一顿吃得我们胆战心惊，撒腿就跑。
顺着中尼公路朝日县出发，这是最艰难的旅行，要翻过5220米高的嘉错拉山，而且这段路是泥路，海拔一高，降雨量多，路泥泞不堪，常陷车。为了安全起见，师傅与其余五辆车一起同行，万一陷车也好有个照应。后来得知有三辆车是中央电视台人民日报新闻采风组的，奇傻无比地到樟木采风去。海拔越来越高，到了山顶，你很容易感到气候的变化。这里已经没有树了，高于半米的植物已经不见了，只有寒带草甸植被，而且稀少。慢慢地下雨了，下雪了，下得很大，很急，我们冻得不行了，把所有能披在身上的东西都披上了。路已经不能按正常走了。许多车陷了，堆积了十几辆。师傅是很有经验的，开了二十年车了，下车探路了十分钟，然后带我们从旁边开道过去。丰田62果然很行，车用了十五年了，还能在这种路上折腾，真是佩服日本人。四轮驱动，我们在里头震得七昏八素，头转向，丰田62照行不误,轮子打滑，车身倾斜，都不在话下。师傅的技术很好，我们连跌带撞地闯过危险区，回头一看，人民日报的几辆车紧随其后。这几位吃饱饭没事干的大记者成为我们解闷的谈资。个个肥头大耳，拿着公款采风呢!
令我最难相信的是，在这样恶劣的条件下，还有藏族人民住在这里。我很难相信他们这样也能生存，几只耗牛，几只牧羊犬，几只羊，维持着一家人的生活。游牧民族的生存能力是很强的，eg.吉普塞人。我坐在空调的吉普车内，他们在零度以下的山顶上，面对恶劣的环境，使用最简单的工具，为生存而奋斗。但他们拥有最灿烂的笑容和最纯洁的心灵。这些是我们城市人永远得不到的财富。
九点钟，到了定日的珠峰宾馆。我们五人住三床，狼屁话多，让我们踢到床下去了，我与小钟挤一块，五人凑合一夜。
7月22日星期六晴定日—珠峰
我还没将眼睛睁开，Wolf齐鬼叫：“ 好天气,好天气!”我们“咚咚咕咕”地爬起来。 Wow thiophene!朝霞is coming！蓝天is appearing！心情自然Happy。为了避免过多的麻烦，我，Wolf齐，小钟从窗口跳出，爬到一栋楼顶，顺着水管梯子，拍日出了。这时，天已经大白, 我们可以很清楚地看到远处的雪山，映衬近处的油菜花和农舍，真是自然名画。无意中翻过头，发现一座孤立的山立在身后，太阳从对面射出，阳光刚好铺满山顶，象传说中的“金顶时刻”，而金顶之下，山身却隐在暗处。我掉过镜头，将这一难得时刻定格，真是奇妙。今天真交了狗运了。
一位给牛拔草的小姑娘与我聊天，告诉我珠峰就在不远，我帮她拔了会儿草。她妈妈从远处走来，见了我，先是微笑，然后是Hello。接着是要卖首饰给我，我自然不要，一是因为他们的首饰不是非常特别，二是我实在穷死了，自己他妈穷得要讨饭了， 还买什么首饰。那女孩等她妈妈一走，不知怎么也嚷着要喝珠峰宾馆的汤和白白的馒头了。我还不明白这是怎么回事？当即告诉她，我自己都不花钱吃这种东西，然后一句“Bye bye!”走人，片子也不拍了。
现在才知道进珠峰门票65元/人，400元/车，我被迫从有限的现金中支出165元，立马面临破产。说到钱不得不提起吃早餐的事，这里一碗蛋炒饭要15元。我们四个吃压缩饼干，让师傅吃了饭。忽然间四处多了许多小孩和妇女，向游客们讨钱。我虽然这种情况碰到过多，但仍事无法明白这些小孩会的第一句英文竟是“Money”，不管中外，见了人就说“Money”，或者用手指指你，再指指自己的嘴巴，叫你给点吃的。平时多的话，我们会给，但在这种地方，我们自己食物补给都非常困难，自然不愿意给他们。这些小孩都习惯了，对你又拉又喊，一直不停。我和Wolf齐跑到大自然吃去了。后来遇到早上捡牛草的小女孩，我还是给了她几片饼干。我挺不是滋味的，又不是不能活了，每年国家的救济也不少，怎么尽向人要钱呢？比甲A还。
从定日县到绒布寺珠峰观点大约70km的路，路非常难走，有时简直没路。但路上风景很好，可以看到山坡上的残雪。爬到山顶还可以看到周围小馒头似的群山，大有”一览众山小”的感觉，自然和泰山相比，豪气得多。静静地坐在山顶上，看看雪山，看看地上各式各样的野花，心情好极了。
中午到扎西宗乡吃饭，说是乡，却只有几户人家，这也是一件新鲜事!
碰到“人民日报”几位同志们返回，采风团，搞笑！他们没有看到珠峰，又因时间紧，所以当天就赶回去。这个季节看到珠峰的机会太小了。
到绒布寺是下午5点，已经有六部车在了。我放下东西后，一个人走在河边，自远处眺望，珠峰让云遮住了，我们只能看到周围的雪山，我默默地祈求：“我是穷学生，请你们让我看看珠峰吧!”In vain，我什么都看不见。
九点，有人呼叫，是的，云散了，珠峰出现了。远远地屹立在面前，浑身雪白，因为天是蓝的，所以特清楚。很高大威猛，比旁边的山高出许多。许多游客都跑过来拍照，我又飞快地跑道河边，拍了片子后，许了几个愿。我们的运气是很不错，一上来，就看到了，明天一早，多半也能看到。之后，就几秒，满天星斗，珠峰也渐渐不见了。云雾又聚集起来，天空又落幕了，唯有白色与蓝色。
因住宿太贵，我住在车上，他们几个都怕我冻死，我倒没什么，在纳木错不也是住帐篷吗？天冷无所谓，主要在于汽油味太重了。
God?I hope tomorrow is a fine day.
7月23日星期日晴珠峰
随在车上的好处就是一有动静我最先知道。四点钟一辆车出发了，然后我惊醒，看看天还是黑的，又睡下了。大约每隔半小时我就起来看看天亮了吗。后来倒是天亮了，但雾大，我看不到珠峰，心中有种隐隐的不安。
昨夜睡的很好，除了因为腿伸不直难受外，其余没什么。一点不冻，我套了三个睡袋。汽油味到后来也习惯了，半夜下雨是我知道的。这样，我就可以节省40元的住宿费了。
大约七点钟，我的直觉告诉我雾要散了，爬起来，顾不得刷牙洗脸，抓起摄影包就跑。昨天河边是个极好的拍摄点，我站在那等。绒布寺海拔5100米，现在又是早上，温度估计在0上下，非常冷。我不停地转圈，靠运动来趣暖，同时祈祷雾快点散。忽然间灵感一来，编了一首歌“cloud go away”，唱得有来有去，刚好给热身运动伴奏。此时的云雾笼罩着山群，天是灰蒙蒙的一片，太阳并没有露脸，鬼知道躲在那个角落流鼻涕呢！不过我忽然发现云雾也有可爱之处。特别是十分钟后，有些山顶开始出现阳光，云雾由片成条，像哈达一样绕在山间，似有仙境之感。我趁珠峰任处于“地下”状态，先拍了几张，弥补到黄山、庐山未看到云海之遗憾了。慢慢地，珠峰由“地下”转入若隐若现的“犹抱琵琶半遮面”状态。太阳渐渐移过来了，云雾也散了，珠峰的线条渐渐明显，轮廓清晰，正如昨夜一样，终于完全展现在我的眼前。四周除了山、山，空旷无垠，我与珠峰坦然相对。他，高大、圣洁、无暇、完美。我，一为22岁的女孩，活泼、激情、有想象力。有一颗善良的心。我们没有差别，我们都希望世界和平，人类幸福。他在中国的西南，我在中国的东南。不远千里，我赶到Tibet来看它，带的是一颗平常的心和一句普通的祝福：“永远像现在这样，作我们心中的第三女神！”就该这样，只是对立，且无语。有种独特的感觉，就像我与上帝在对话。
登山大本营在距绒布寺8k处的地平上，直对珠峰，与珠峰垂直距离为十几公里，因为今年七月份，发生过登山事故，国家暂停珠峰的开放，故大本营除了游客外别无他人。最惹人注目的是一处堆放垃圾的地方，整齐地放着几个蓝色的桶，上面用英文写着垃圾的种类。只有这样，才让我们永远都看到同样干净的女神。
我的目的是尽量接近珠峰，最好能到达山脚下。从大本营出发，我们四人还是一同到的，后来慢慢走散了。山麓间有无数条潺潺的小溪，是雪山溶化后形成的，由于途径的山是沙石制的，所以，水并不清澈，但很急，很冰。跨越这些小溪后，我的鞋已经湿了五次了。
眼前的小路直通珠峰，我继续向前，走了很长时间，路势上升，我有点累了，休息了一会儿。如此这般屡次，我发现不对，赶紧问回来的一位Foreigner,“Is the mountain far from here?”得到的回答是“Very Far”.我又向前走了几里，总觉得路遥无期，怕他们三人等，就退了回来。在山麓口遇到Wolf齐，，我劝他别进去了，他的脸色不太好，他说他有点高原反应。我与Wolf齐回走，看见小钟野进去，我们叫她别进太远。我与Wolf齐分开行动，尝试新的路径，我选择小溪的源头。后来由于溪水太急，无法越过，只得越走越高，直到山顶找到一个较窄处，才跨过去，赶紧下山回到停车处。 Wolf齐与小钟都到了。他们见到我告诉我的脸色不好，除了累以外，我倒不觉得什么。他们两个上车都休息了。后来我们同时遇到一个难题，梁坚不见了。等了进一个小时，师傅急了，因为我们今天要赶到定日县，但现在已经近2点了。我们也怕了，梁坚万一高原反应，附近一个人也没有，他该怎么办呢？又过了半小时，原本想与我们同道走的2个意大利人由于时间关系先走了。小钟跑去找了，我、Wolf齐、师傅开始为两人着急。还好，二十分钟后两人到了。梁坚一个人跑进山麓十几里，快近珠峰冰川了。
剩下来的事自然是马不停蹄向定日赶，我们四人累极了，靠在车上呼呼大睡。到了定日已是近八点，这里已经有点草原的味道了，听说樟木的风光更棒。
与新疆相比，特别是南疆.Tibet开放的时间长多了，但住宿、饮食的条件不如南疆，至少南疆干净，宽敞，不缺水电。 Tibet唯一的优势是乞讨者多，且很小的孩子都会说“Hello”与“Money”！这让我很难过。
每到差不多5000米的高度，他们三都有高原反应。今天小钟从大本营回来呕吐了，Wolf齐说我从山上下来时，嘴唇都紫了，缺少氧气的表现。但除了脸黑、黄，鼻子常淤血外，我并没有什么不适。
7月24日星期一晴樟木
从定日到聂拉木的路还算好走，三小时后就到了。路上景色调，草原沙化严重，光头山一座又一座。为了防止打盹，我们四人开始谈天说地，争论不休。不过十分钟后，Wolf齐仍是狼酣暴起。聂拉木已经可以嗅到亚热带的气息了，植物的样子已经特热带的那种。我们身上的毛孔已经开始出现蒸发的迹象，血液流动加快，思维呈迅速转动倾向发展。
随着与尼泊尔距离的拉近，异国情调越聚越浓。中午在尼泊尔的一家餐厅吃了一个薄饼外加果酱与甜茶，更让这种情调聚焦定格。 YES！ Nepal.
算算时间，已经十天没和亲友联系了，等回到拉萨再打电话吧！这里通讯不便，家中妈妈应该很着急了。
钱包也扁了下去，看来以后的日子更艰苦了！ Go On.Goat!
一出聂拉山，风光急转直下，光秃秃的山由覆植被到矮松，一直到高大类似黄山大松的树。不时地你还会看到一株秃得没毛得杆立在崖上，放眼四处，一片凄凉。师傅说，有时下雪，雪堆得太多了，树受不了寒，春天到了，就只剩下光杆了。这里海拔不断下降，樟木沟风光似黄山，但更险；似峨嵋，但更秀。瀑布多如牛毛，十步便可见一处，各种各样，令你目不暇接。有时正留恋于公路边得绿叶与秀水，车内一人惊叫，扭头一看，沟对面得悬崖上，一条细细的绢似的的水流下低处，源于高空，好象来于天堂。有的水急，有的流缓，但绝对白，绝对有动感，称于边上的奇石绿被，你会发现这是大自然对颜色的最佳组合。虽然中间隔着一条沟，但这反倒是最好的距离，你不用接近，也不必接近，就这样远远地看，远远地感觉，你还有什么不满吗？你还有什么不适吗？你还有什么郁闷吗？ Goodbye!活着，并且感受到，就是最大地财富，一切都够了。有时，我们关上车窗、车门，从瀑布下穿越而过，透过水帘看外面的世界，模糊后又连续，你会有种种让自己留下的借口并产生已经留下的幻觉。当再次打开车窗时，你会发现空气更清新，世界更诱人。
与风景形成强烈的反差，是商品的匮乏。我以为尼泊尔的物品会有很多，但转了樟木的一条街，除了口香糖与方便面以及一种5毛钱的饼干，其余全是中国货，没什么免税的，假货倒不少，令我们失望之极。但尼泊尔的咖喱饭却是味道极美。
樟木是夏尔巴族人的地盘，还有许多尼泊尔人和印度人，说英文是最好的交流方式。许多外国人从这里出境，我却苦于无护照而只得在境内徘徊，不去加德满都是一件非常遗憾的事。听说三十公里外有个国际市场。
这里的藏族人要么找你换钱，要么坐在路边的台阶上好奇但茫然地看着你，但你放心，他们不会向你要钱。
7月25日星期二晴樟木-定日
原计划今天从樟木到聂拉木地，这一段风景很棒。我们几个都很想拍片子，但昨天晚上某一臭狗莫名乱叫，引起樟木若干只狗狂叫，时间持续了四五个小时，我们彻夜难眠。精神状态极差。后来连续两天对有狗的话题皆是恶语有加、咬牙切齿。早上九点，四人都被师傅叫起来，并且一致同意改步行为坐车。这样决定的最大受害者是师傅，因为我们一有感觉拍片子，他必定得等上半小时。
自然的东西给你很多遐想，虽然中国许多名胜皆因山水而闻名，但到过樟木的人便不会有此感觉了。你是否见过一座山上泻落二十几条瀑布？虽然细小，但明眼的白色从墨绿的树林中透处一种无法掩饰的存在，将一座山画成一个巨大的龟壳。有时候，流水的下落过程出现石头及其他阻碍物的空挡，白色的液体一下子聚成白色的团状物，滚动下来砸在第一块石头上，溅起无数浪点，形成一道屏障，朦胧透出背后的黑色。这是一个极有动感的过程。屏障就是在薄与厚之间交替。
就这样，我们在这神奇的世界中拖到下午2点才到聂拉木。
在行车的过程中，你常常会碰到许多有趣的故事，而我是个不易在车上睡觉的人，所以常常让一起普通的画面感动着。
你会看到远处是星星点点的白云，在路边的土堆上，会有一个穿得很破、肮脏的放羊孩子，举着脏兮兮的带有羊鞭的小手，向从身边飞驰而过的丰田微笑，眼睛透出一种很纯很纯的渴望，这种天真的表情令人情不自禁地被吸引。我们活在不同的社会空间，唯一能交流的是一种人性的初始的共同点，那就是我们的善良与真诚。直到小孩的身影形成一个点，我还是未能将思绪收回。眼眶却早已湿润了。
远远地你还会看到三五个修路工人在整修路。 Tibet的气候恶劣，路得时时修，若没有修路工人，我们举步维艰。所以每遇上一位修路工人，我们和司机都会扬手招呼，然后我们会看到一张带着疲倦的脸，但充满笑意。
羊群是非常有意思的群体，特别是过马路时，我们远远地鸣喇叭，它们一点都不慌，仍时不紧不慢地蠕动。直到车子走进了，并且有羊先骚动了，整个羊群会紧张起来，用难以置信的速度飞奔，你就看到一团团棉球滚过，瞬间全到了路的另一边。 哈哈!体重与速度根本不成正比。
空旷的草原上，时不时出现遗弃的房屋，远远地是几点，随着车的驶近，那几堵黄色的墙转入你的视野，通常是一个土堆。上面是高高低低的土墙，或许旁边还会有一些土块或石碓，让风沙磨圆了棱角和原有的外形，你只能看出它现在是土墙，并且上面有几个小洞。或许这样更好，你可以随着山路的回转从不同角度欣赏这些历史空间的遗留物，然后联想它们曾经的喧闹与辉煌。也许曾经一位美丽姑娘站在屋顶上眺望她远方的羊群。在平坦的草原上，它们总是那么醒目，那么沧桑，黄色似乎是一种历史的象征，给人一种巨大的震撼，穿透到心灵的深处。也就是在这时，你会觉得残留也是一种美，美得神秘，美得有点支离破碎，美得让你想大声哭泣。
晚上宿于定日的安多旅店，就是上次去的一家，四人间20元，条件不好！
因为洗澡要8-10元，所以我已经七天没洗澡了，等到吉日再好好睡一觉吧，洗个澡，并且有人洗衣服。
许多地方不通电，旅馆自备发电机。
7月26日星期三多云定日-日喀则
我没想到返回拉萨也要从嘉措拉山走，这一段路实在是令人痛苦的要命。这天天气不错，但到了山顶仍是下了冰雹，好在天气不算很冷。我们一共下来推车三次，其中二次让顶上的藏族人帮忙，他们专门帮助推陷泥的车，收取相应费用。
回到日喀则，已是八点，我的身上溅满泥点，是推车是弄上的。 Wolf齐与梁坚包了间标房，我与小钟仍住25元的房间，但因此我仍洗上了个热水澡，简直太舒服了。
让家人打电话到桑珠孜宾馆来，妈妈一听我后来的路线，只说了一句：“马上乘飞机滚回家！”二哥则笑嘻嘻地说：“若20日不回家，冰箱里的荔枝可是一粒不剩！”这可太残忍了，我在Tibet几年没吃水果了！
7月27日星期四多云拉萨
越是接近拉萨，大家越是开心，总想好好睡一觉，近十天的旅行，还是有点疲惫。
从日喀则到拉萨，不再经过羊湖，而是沿着雅鲁藏布江前行。雅江江水浑黄，配以两岸几乎无植被的石山，你会觉得凄美，也许仍带点雄伟。水流湍急，但没有大浪，只是旋转地陷下去，陷下去，让你觉得深深的。快接近拉萨了，水也清了，但两岸沙化仍是严重。有时，高山腹中一处金黄，竟是一片沙丘埋于山凹中，几点绿色覆盖再上面也是苍白无力的。忽然间，你会很恐怖，原来沙漠离这片土地竟也这样近。
一向很有经验的丹增师傅，在嘉措拉山均能化险为夷的本领到了拉萨消失的无影无踪，一屁股撞到了公交车的屁股上，两车俱伤。我们这次输的有点莫名其妙。丹增师傅也会在阴沟离翻船？
打的到吉日住下，为了快些干，我仍是自己洗了衣服。除梁坚住八朗学外，其余都住Kirey。回路路线不同，可能会分头行动，我明日去哲蚌寺，后日可能起程，桑耶或八一，或从川北出藏，行程未定。
我与小钟住KIREY 206，同屋一位很Handsome的智利人。
下一篇川藏线拉萨--成都我和西藏有个约会| www.DateWithTibet.com
Author: Cuma2001
