Leading to the soul door - April Tibet line, the anniversary
Author: DEWBABY
It is 2002 in April. I came back from Tibet a whole year.
In this year a lot of people asked about my trip to Tibet, I do not know how to accurately answer. Feeling and experience is indescribable out, not been to Tibet, people do not understand.
Today, I write these people and things encountered in those days will be long remembered.
April 1, 2001 Saturday, fool's day, at 9:00 am.
Your phone suddenly rang, my bleary-eyed then, the phone apart, Wang Dan is excited about the sound: fast up, Tibet going?
Smell it like a thunderous.
Tibet was a kind of my childhood faith, longing, where blue sky, cattle and sheep flocks, but also romantic thought about going to marry a guy Kham. The ideal of university graduates to support Tibet has been under medical shabu, the flash work for years, have become reality, Tibet has become a distant and fuzzy dream. This season, this morning, received such an invitation, not that surprised.
Jumped up from his bed to determine this is not a joke, and I feel complex, the ensuing excitement, indecision, the feasibility of high and low and even still in that short span of a few minutes where flash is also a bonus, attendance and other thoughts.
I have 2 hours of time to consider and friends on the phone told me to. He was a photographer, to help people make snow of the location, the original peer suddenly can not go, so me this opportunity.
Excited accounted for the mainstream, playing a telephone warning of friends and her boyfriend and got the negative answer. The former told me to save money and I did not leave to my current spending does not afford the cost of this trip, but will soon turbulent, I do not have rash move. The latter would rather hope I reassured planning a living should not have too many were removed from the infatuation ends of the earth.
Xin Shu Di cool. Indeed, I was faced with many crisis: a highly competitive and social undercurrents unrest. Diaphragm, abandoned, poverty-stricken and fatigued. Life after the age of 26, after all, more responsibility, can not be too self-willed.
Faint and father said, there is a chance to go to Tibet, but the travel and holidays are concerned, I think perhaps give up, maybe I just pay lip service.
Silence, the father said only one, in any case it was for 10 years you want to place.
Yes, I have fantasies of countless times where I have 26 years of age, if a young man do not, then after the bustle of life, business jumbled, I do not have the opportunity to go. And I can pick out his hand on to my dream.
Fixed ticket.
Office of Border card.
Raise money.
Contact the Office of Tibet Tourism Bureau in Shanghai.
Buy climbing shoes, fortified biscuits, instant noodles, canned food, sleeping bags, film, N and more fragmented.
Looking for information to make travel homework. Go to the bank angle currency exchange notes. Collecting all kinds of drugs in pharmacies.
To the bosses leave, and threatened to tell even if he lost his job, Tibet, I will certainly want to go.
April 4, I hit the road.
Shanghai - Chengdu.
I am most worried about is due to altitude sickness had to be returned into the hyperbaric oxygen chamber. So, to live a day in Chengdu, Shanghai is 0 elevation, elevation of nearly 2000 in Chengdu, red brigade in Shanghai since the Tibetan plateau running back security services, sooner or later, twice a day, they dare not have any contempt. Go to Lhasa, the aircraft more than 6 o'clock the next morning, the Tibetan areas of the ever-changing days, the day the aircraft can fly only early in the morning. Living in Shuangliu airport hotels, wandering around, met a lot of people on the same plane to Lhasa, mostly foreigners, from all corners. Chitchat with quickly cooked, and accompany.
April 6, and finally landed at the Gonggar Airport.
When the plane landed, the sun is dazzling, first of all to do is take a deep breath, without any exception. Hemoglobin or the combination of atmospheric oxygen on the plane, what would the reaction, it is necessary to see the outcome after 1 day.
Lhasa airport is not long, narrow, side of a mountain range. This is my dream before the soul around the place. Days are blue, and there is choking clean.
My equipment is very simple, one shoulders climbing package, one can carry a suitcase on the plane. Save the trouble of waiting for checked luggage, we quickly found the car to Lhasa. Silent way, a look at scenery. Along the hillside there is a frescos and statues, we are greedy shutter according to a non-stop, but soon after felt really ridiculous to see the widow.
Lhasa and Shanghai, there is not much difference, but not as good as Shanghai high floor, cars more than Shanghai. Shanghai can buy things, Lhasa also have, is filled with Internet cafes and Xi Toufang can be seen. 1 a denim sportswear clothing walking in the hot sun still microscopic.
Shambhala living in the street was near the left close to the Jokhang Temple in 1999, built three stars hotel, very clean, service very good. Shambhala is Sanskrit, is a place where all creatures live in harmony. Hall IP card phones,报平安, in order to reduce the unnecessary burden of all, my cell phone to stay in Shanghai. Is basically only in the whole of Tibet in Lhasa and Shigatse, China Mobile phone can be used, but Shenzhouxing can not.
And my roommate was a Chinese-American, with her husband to Shanghai has been 2 years. Very friendly, care of her husband and their children at home, a man came to Tibet to play. Rooms have a simple drink bar, but also an Rhodiola rosea and plateaus. Slightly to stay on the press lost its excitement, pulled a friend to the streets.
Not used or the sun, in Shanghai, I was serving out at night diurnal animals exposed to sunlight as the grass was drying Yan. Nikko city of Lhasa, said 20 o'clock before the sun sets than in Shanghai there are about 1 hour time difference.
Street was at first glance, and the Square Street of Lijiang is almost, but the atmosphere and rugged. Market, the people dressed different, Han, Hui people, Tibetans, blond, blue-eyed, and Xi Toufang door stood still wearing stomachers woman, do not see people. The air is thick milk smell, look around, there is wrapped in leather inside the butter to sell, open-air stacked, formation of the incision, a film is now cut to buy. There are vacuum-packed YAKK BUTTER sell ,5-8 per month. After a small bridge, suddenly smell fragrant and looked down, there are finely ground powder of green tarpaulin on the Lei Cheng hill, with the Chinese asked the Tibetan old pit-smoked Han Yan said it was barley. Oh, barley, remember when the Red Army and the surface.
Everywhere fresh, share share nostalgia, not yet approached the Jokhang Temple have been hungry to see tables, earlier than noon. In the Shambhala opposite SNOWLAND meal, Chinese and Western, Tibetan, Nepalese, Indian meal is complete, the environment is also very good. Looking around, eating mostly the same plane of the foreigners, so apparently the intention of a long table to sit down and moved. Turn menus on the vegetables, English words only know murphy / tomato / vegetable, meat, Daohai to know detailed, incurred waiter asked, actually did not understand Chinese, Yiliankuxiang time to see TEAM FOOD LIST, such as the savior of the event Amnesty point-like meals in Nepal by supporting them to get it, better than my previous main course dish a good wild one pass. Friends of India Point meals.
Dish up, like every family plays a game of over one another to exchange for food, Indian meal of curry, spicy meal Nepal, the Tibetan meal light, was impressed by a kind of baked crisp cake inside the loose outside, the ritual Shousi pouring the olive oil yogurt, lips and teeth fragrance, now I remember.
Get out of restaurants, in street stalls throughout the trial with a Tibetan hat, friends FRANK holding a camera aimed at me, laugh, fleet, he looked at me make a fuss. Red mirror look, face swollen, like pay a man to fight. Days, altitude sickness started, I obediently back to hotel to sleep.
Waking up is 19:00, it was in Lhasa in the evening. Under the frightened heart, in the end to one is not easy, do not want to be sent back to Chengdu, in the corner of the restaurant did not dare to eat a bath the Tibetan meal back to sleep.
Night is very quiet, felt that the first began to rise slightly, to hear their own clear heart. Turn a body, roommate had not slept, said gas tight. Pour the water to her, Xiangshiyixiao continue to force yourself to rest.
8:00 dawn. Headache has been reduced, stretch limbs, no one exception. I have had to adapt period, so easily.
FRANK went to shoot the door, the door opened, see the face of his purple owed to sleep Mo Yang, altitude sickness, he fell. Aspirin, the dose from the people eat the dose of foreigners are still not improve. Only let him in a hotel bed.
Alone went to the Jokhang Temple. The door to see a lot of pious pilgrims. Dull red clothes, green backpack in hand wood, a step a salute. Hands together, from top to bottom, sub-5, prostrate on the ground, OM MANI PADME HUM. In the film has been seen several times, still have been impressed by such a belief. I do not know the number of road that they are OK, with this amount of land Flor came here. Jokhang Temple was built in the mid-7th century AD, with the typical architectural style of the Tang Dynasty and India. Dian-high four layers along the steps and, on the top see the magnificent in the sunlight, look supreme. Feng Gong temple the image of Sakyamuni is said to Princess Wen Cheng brought into the fan, when, in the hearts of Tibetans has an unrivaled sacred meaning. Far corner you can see the majestic Potala Palace, please man I have left a shadow, down the stairs and saw a Tibetan woman坐在台阶上turn knowledgeable and elevated, Tibetans believe that the afterlife turning circle is equivalent to one side by the Chung , at least 10 million times be able to enter heaven after death. In her face, I saw the time, rings, deeply engraved wind and frost and UV rays. Le!
In the street was like a maze where around for a long time, finally found the Ramoche, incense, and significantly less than the size of the Jokhang Temple, there is engraved with a lion or a fairy face puisne. To hours to catch up with monks in the recitation, the door before won a hada. And the Chinese Buddhist temple is different from Lama was read by the cadence, and got a 32, they took out from the red robes of a small tripod, with the index finger wiping butter into his mouth licking lap. Another round of monks are in a hair yuan, one 30 to see four of my curiosity.
Before sunset, but also hired manpower tricycles, pulling me swinging in Lhasa city, to a number of shopping malls, how to look and the mainland cities were not much difference. This is already a finished modern cities, and two days, the I am a little disappointed.
A new day, You Abdallah.
Late the day before the walk, I have come here. Impression of the Potala Palace, Lhasa's Red Hill should be located on the front of a holy man-made lake, the reflection of the red and white palace. No longer. In order to meet the 1000 Xi prime, Abdallah before the holy lakes have been filled square into a modern, stylish modern street lamps and height of the Potala Palace echoes, we can not see the blue sky red and then white walls green wave waves holy glory of silent just sad.
FRANK hospital in Lhasa the previous day hanging a half-day salt water, barely as an individual sample. Walking along the mountains from behind the palace. Although it was unfortunately never see the reflection of the beautiful lake, but still admire its beauty. Every Tibetan went over to the butter lamps will be carried to where Tim's own butter, most people still carrying rice sacks filled with rice or barley, passing statues, prayers, and then carefully Sheng Feng Gong out of food. Next to the tour guide said that Abdallah's butter lamps since its inception has not has not been extinguished. 1400 years, which is a kind of faith ah.
Hall divided into large and small, more than 1,000 rooms, very dark, almost entirely of butter lamps flickering lighting, video and photography require additional fees and charges, and a lot of money, which makes us very unhappy. The air is still full of intense flavor YAKK BUTTER saw shag for a visit to the Xinxin Ran, but were told that was not serving female customers. FRANK to visit when I casually stroll. Red lacquer gold walls, glass and green pine, blue sky white clouds. Zheng Jun sing, come join us come back to Lhasa and back to our home after an absence has been a long time. If you need an abstract belief in the reality of the land for their homeland, then indeed there is no place in Tibet over the last.
Afternoon drive to the northern suburbs of the Sera Monastery. Construction covered by the wilderness on the wild roses in full bloom "color tiles" and named. Mountaineering, rock paintings across such colorful, noisy than the Lhasa, and Abdallah and bustle here, a more calm. Visited their kitchen, thinking about where this information appears on the read, the lama temple of the things that do not eat by themselves or their families to feed, were more solemn. A little chat with the monks, 14,5 years old, red robes, semi-wearing semi-trailer on the body, she has very short hair, can speak the Chinese language is very limited. CHAPELS painting inside the column and Abdallah is not too obvious difference is simply pre-existence of present and future, heaven hell reincarnation. FRANK non-good man, nor am I Xinnv, but not laugh, past the past, we have different thoughts, the future of the future I will be equally trivial worked hard with city life.
Temple roof, not far from the highlands to see there are Tianzang Tai, is open every morning, read the text on the burial record, Tian Zangshi there would be at the cutting mantra dance, body cut into small pieces and then spread out . Attended the burial number 4, does not seem to have the deceased's family members, but also does not allow strangers watching. I used a long lens shot, and there are vulture flying in the roundabout to see little real.
Milling at the Drepung Monastery where a person, look for me before departure little girl looking for butter. In the shrine before Tantoutannao was slightly higher one-year thing monks stopped, kindly asked me since I say, but where. ShangHai. He said he had heard of Shanghai, and asked if I do fun in Tibet? Well, three feet between heaven and earth. Q. What is the Butter Sculpture, an exceptional case with me to the rear and saw the table, such as memorial tablets for the village Wu Shi, white at the end of the above described color patterns. Lama with conch filled with some water to me: holy-water, drank a half, he taught me to wipe the forehead. One after another to find teammates, waved good-bye.
FRANK is still in a half awake state, the first 6 days, we still stay in Lhasa. I also took the opportunity to be properly rest, for tomorrow's trek. Visited the Tibet Museum, the bumps for a long time to see the production of a Tibetan carpet factory. But one day last seen, made me be strongly shaken.
School for the blind in Lhasa. Tour the whole of Tibet has become the most shining mark.
Chuanjiezouxiang be found there.
7 years ago, two from Germany to a young couple came here with their savings and the construction of the hands of the school for the blind. Free adoption and education of blind children, as well as orphans.
A layer of semi-residential areas, as well as half-layer is in the ground. Touched the wall, carefully walked down the stairs along the dark, damp, their noses.
See more than 10 blind typewriter was originally their classrooms. Learn English, learn Chinese, learning to sing.
Dimly lit flickered, 13:00, still not clear what. With a thought, there is no light matter of fact does not matter, they do not need to.
On to a floor and a half, students live on the lower berth, simple, but clean.
German couple has become his wife, was living alone in a room, mud for the land, several boxes are chair, bed, difficult to handle the Tibetan carpet shop, there is the smell of fish butter. P3 laptop desk. Bedroom and office.
They beat local customs, printed film star printed T-shirts, sale, as well as relatives and friends of the gift to maintain the supply of schools.
A whole afternoon, I and a group of foreigners to stay here. Listen to them singing and see them dancing, and their play.
Can not leave.
Is more pure than the sky is the human mind.
Get up early, hired a jeep, condition very good, Toyota 4-wheel drive. Lhasa, farther and farther away, half an hour later, is really get a feeling of sky-blue ground Kuang. TONY asked the same car, you can've been拉斯维卡斯? On both sides of the expressway are the long yellow sand, but wait for you to reach Nazuo built on a glittering desert city, it is a miracle. Listen to my heart, Kui Yi, every city in the development, while in Lhasa today, Geng Shibi others have a more difficult construction.
Very little water on the way, in order to avoid unnecessary embarrassment. Before and after the wait, there are 5,6 vehicles counterparts. With the car and a Tibetan guide, can speak fluent Mandarin, all the way silence, occasionally, and TONY chat in English, the topic is that many years ago, mainland China's film censorship "7 YEARS IN TIBETAN". To hear the old man out of the Han Chinese are not friendly, and this point I have felt in Lhasa, the Tibetans, we are not what the people of Shanghai, Peking, Guangzhou, while being known as Han unification. However, they distinguish between British, American or German.
Tibetan restaurant in the Nagarze eat lunch, it is customary point of the EGG FIY RICE, was stopped by the side of the U.S. boy, smiled, and said that while the election can now pick more than other foods, since some of the journey where you are eat Egg Fried Rice. Yes, you can choose, generally also escape FIY RICE, NOODLE have MOMO and so on. Tibetans MOMO is our Jian Jiao, still bearing Xi Zang light meal, only addition of salt and onion and garlic for lamb and beef, especially tasty. Butter tea in the Deqin already tasted it, and no one else described it hard to swallow, as we normally add some salt and drink the tea. But here's buttered tea is sweet, finally understand that after some confirmation, SWEAT BUTTER TEA and YAKK BUTTER TEA is different.
Switch to see the foot of the mountain when the mountain more than 4,000 meters above sea level Yamdrok Lake, which lake blue, breathtaking. Almost all Tibetans do not eat fish, and those who jokingly said that if the water in this lake drained, leaving the fish layer tens of meters, those of us who eat in this life could not finish.
Britain is still bumpy toss the car dealers, large and small along the way have piled Mani Dui, slightly above the streamer on the Piaoman a colorful, occasionally to see Tibetan pilgrims going to turn a knowledgeable and elevated, clockwise around Mani Dui by. The red dress has become obsolete, and has reddish oily, you can see the wool laminated rolled edge, thin, dark complexion. However, this sky reflected in the United States, and has become a belief strength.
In the evening to reach Gyantse. Gyantse horse full possession of the famous Unfortunately, we went to the wrong time.
Before dark, visited the baiqoi monastery. Very unique architectural style, the legend is set by the Buddha in Lhasa the model, using the system has sent Gyangze butter, the way the sun powerful, melt half baiqoi monastery monks do not know, so this temple was built according to type. Hear me laugh incessantly. Walk the dark narrow wooden ladder on a pagoda roof, you can still see one after a small CHAPEL tribute with colored Buddha, there are Hada, there are long out of butter lamps, set Budun, Grew, Sa thoughts, and other sects in the 1. Corridors on the far hill to see the top of the castle, think about the "Red River Valley," where Bing Shao finally lit the fuse, there are solemn tragic.
Night, Su Bai Lang. Days close to the stars if only in the head. Quiet, feeling their own insignificance, suddenly want to cry.
FRANK is still semi-comatose state, no matter how it is unwilling to return to Chengdu. Dinner or in meat-based chewing gums were swollen, I think of the car there before leaving piano teacher insisted on me to put on 10 pounds of cucumbers, too heavy, only to come back half, has become the savior.
Waking up is the whole body sore, still maintains a bath each morning and evening, wet the hair, to span the luggage car, called with the foreigners see stunned. A few days ago for dinner, he asked me Where are you from, because I do not make chopsticks, so do not give chopsticks as he clearly between the gesture. CHINESE! They smiled, apparently did not believe. Perhaps they have in mind the Oriental woman, should be a gentle smile, the thin and shy.
That day to Dasa Jia.
Sa is also very quaint beautiful thoughts. Construction usually pink with red, white or other colors of the stripes. Ate a small restaurant on the roadside, but also drink highland barley wine, should the previous, then ended up with no choice left all kinds of fried rice. The shop is a small Tibetan couple, chatting, their stores, as the majority of Tibetans inside the room, dark, lights dim.
Along the way, through the temple, escorted Wood, I always make knowledgeable and elevated from the ground to the last one, Lama laugh, I laugh, OM MANI PADME HUM, days earth are great.
Continue to crosses, Kerry pulled the wrong peak. Streamer in the wind-whipped, particularly in the United States, the feeling of being washed and forget those trivial matters in Shanghai, forgetting her long-borne on the contradiction between ideal and reality. 5220 meters above sea level, many people began to nausea, headaches, FRANK holding oxygen bottles are not even under the car. After a Tibetan yak teams, led by the Department of the cattle on the bell, crisp. Tibetan man singing the songs bold, wear a silver waist knife. Their rest. Chong us laugh, to smile back to Ying, handed me a buttered tea is not taboo, big mouth and drink. Give me his obsession knives, trimmed with turquoise and red coral, see manual for detailed, sharp, rounded grip has been grinding. But like the back, telling him not to bring the aircraft to stay in the security area in which I was really reluctant. Group photo, then bid farewell to the Lazi.
Street and saw a monument, and quickly shouted stop. That excitement ah, drag FRANK angles: 318 State Road, Lazi Gessat - Shanghai People's Square, 5,000 km boundary.
In the Lazi to Shanghai to play the phone out of here, only the maritime satellite phones, 150 yuan / min. In addition to camphor, Lazi westbound we have seen the last of a modern town, there are over planned roads, street lamps and concrete houses. More beggars along the way up, and let us know the car had swarmed shouted: HELLO MONEY, HELLO PEN. A dime coin a thick corner Da, distribute, see the crowd dispersed contented expression. U.S. boy took out a lot of ball-point pen, the children self-conscious line up collar. Read the mind that do not know what it's like.
Complements the equipment, an early rest, tomorrow going to Everest.
Tingri wake up in the morning, I saw silver in the snow-covered Shino. Room, no heat, warm water reaches this has long been cold. A bath is not enough, and barely wipe his face. The fried chicken here is very delicious, with a pressure cooker out of the snow-covered fried chicken, meal charges for foreigners in China cheaper than half Fortunately Fortunately, she was very sure I was Chinese.
Put down jacket, and the roommate of the woman to see snow. She comes from Washington.DC, and all the same old America has SHOPPING desire. Residence outside the local children to sell conch fossil. A few million years ago, here is the vast ocean, when the sea change mulberry, Haikudanlan. Xin-Ming, gas net. Understand that a lot of things are goodly portion of luck, and life is limited, and eyes of the beholder, the wise see wisdom, my, your, everyone's life have to fend for themselves too, no one who can not bear, can find their own lives approach is the most happy, mainstream or non-mainstream there are no absolute good or bad.
Car and we turned one after another pass, vast on the way of sight of human habitation, there is no way, often from the rocks of the dry riverbed in the past, shook windows, splash splash glass. At the same time starting the car, and now only has two, before and after the echo with. Snow-covered hill, cold, even in the car was still feeling the chill. FRANK plateau response is still not good, all the way to sleep over this, but also be strong in. TONY said that the rainy season will be more beautiful, the mountainside is green, the riverbed flowing clear water. However, as will not see Everest, because water vapor and clouds. It seems really gains and the inevitable any errors, and all the natural good fortune is fair.
Clearance at the border and so on. In addition to all those who peer FRANK passport, and soon passed, Kushou plateau reflects the tortured FRANK dragging oxygen tanks holding his ID card was another half-day cross-examination, and finally pass.
Snow big, he drove slowly. Do not know how long it finally reached the Rongbuk Monastery. Hungry, get off events. See Gesang, he exclaimed. 16-year-old Tibetan woman, the United States, pure water have a natural unruly Tibetans. The two siblings, runs this small hotel, between Tingri and Everest this is the only reception center. There are also Master of beer sold in bowl, more expensive, but it knows are coming by air, has not been easy. Helped fuel wood, sparks Ying Kelsang's face, deep eyes Hushanhushan that she had not been out of Tingri, her name and photo been taken around the world. Around her photographs have been impressed by her temperament.
Hotel is very simple, but there are Hui Zhao Tibetan dogs and metal hoof wooden table with stove, Kelsang's brother Yinyun of water vapor after boiling the water for us, sitting on the futon Tibetan upper top. Can already see Everest, peak water, sunshine after the gas has been opened by the wind, such as dragging braids, and Yuan Wang glaciers hanging with one of them holy. Thousands of years here, guarding the goddess of Everest, there is life, the original beauty and beneath pure.
Break before, resumed.
Che Xingzhi headquarters to see a few days earlier than we arrived home countries climbers stationed a wide variety of tents, as well as to give the yak raising group. A bit cold, bring gloves, hat and pulls out. There is a need for their own hill to climb. Hands and feet, no steps have been impossible. Headaches, ear, such as tear-like drilling heartache, sitting stone can not move. FRANK Upon seeing this, Norway draw out Tao you finally have the bitter taste of altitude sickness, and see you later still fooling with. Oh, yes ah, 5400 meters, I pick on the. TONY escorted me to climb, still see the colorful sutra streamers and Mani Dui, this time became the salute.
Remove the five-star red flag, the wind started actually condensate choke. Col and the way in the accompanying photo shoot teammates, Stars and Stripes, Maple Leaf flag, national flag, is there any friends with the flag of Australia. I am a Chinese. I am a Chinese! Remember friends, I was in China, Shanghai, Beijing's successful bid only thing. But once out of geographical areas, I am Chinese, and this is how a proud, if ah.
Back to Rongbuk Monastery, FRANK headaches and lethargy were all good, but we also went to most of the trip. This surface had carefully folded the flag of Mount Everest. At night, listening to the wind to kick into gear on the outside of the ring, house roasted on fire, the quilt is very thick heavy presses a little gasp. After breakfast and farewell Gesang, want to come after an indefinite period.
By Nyalam to camphor, roads, steep, and ancient trees, the companies clouds. The way through with a few waterfalls, water will the roof, let us Youjing are afraid of. Winding mountain town built camphor, Tibetan, Chinese and Nepalese mixed. Bazaar to buy a lot of copper wire produced in Nepal, described in great detail, probably are the peacock look. Nepal has also bought a shirt, vertical stripes, wide measures such as the gown, with a wooden buttons at the neckline moor. Box operator wanted to go to Shigatse, no time to go to Kathmandu, really very sorry.
Return the way to see many of weathering of the castle, and went to shoot off a bit FRANK King. A sad state of mind, remembering I had read Murong's "Loulanxinniang" days did not last long in the near future, this is the eternal. WANG Quan-found eye, holding drink a lot of drinking on the road again mounted on the bottle. And friends are a joke: HOLY WATER, cited a lot of people went to store water.
When passing through pastoral areas, to see naked children bathing in the river, we take a look at each other's body down jacket, so the driver to stop. The door opened, all of them actually run over, mighty, imposing a little bit so I'm afraid. Go near, stretched out hands, HELLO MONEY. Laugh, to find out corner tickets to them.
Day to reach our final stop - Shigatse. Their counterparts in Shanghai to support Tibet and cities.
In the world's highest hotel stay there, 9 floor, pumping is not in Sheung Shui, on a small stream bath, he saw the skin constantly bubbling. Look in the mirror, black, and more were firmly in the look inside.
To eat dinner at the hotel and found feathers on the menu of Shanghai dishes, the hearts of Huan. Called a two basins, and FRANK exhaustively finished. Lhasa to eat fish, the taste is excellent, and wanted to come to cook must be Han Chinese, Tibetans Bong St fish, it is not killing.
Fell to the Shu soft bed, such as the scattered bones of the frame, FRANK send tomorrow's breakfast voucher, the claim that gesture is simply like jellyfish skin.
Schedule set very loose, to see Tashilhunpo, the largest temple after the Tibetan Gelug Sect. Met with the world's largest gold-plated Jampa like, such as building a wooden rafter when it comes to pulling on the suspension of the bells, burst.
A time when in April, Xigaze Liulv stuck pink wall, stone paths, to clean up the yard as clean and south. Tibetan dogs are everywhere, and are not afraid of people, it lowers the square fall asleep, come to its front, only weakly looked up what-you look for.
In the evening, stroll in the bazaar and bought three identical engraved Liuzizhenyan ring, set in the middle finger, in the evening the streets are still strong ultraviolet looked at them, TONY photographed me holding the camera that moment in mind. Dinner on the table, FRANK holding a beer in English and foreigners take my joke: Look there.She very eager to marry. Really? No, he lie. Raising the hands, suffused with the old silver ring is indeed dazzling, But may i lie?
Return Lhasa. Is taking the new road, more than 10 hours can go. People have changed the silence together, perhaps because it wants to leave, feeling just close to Tibet, we have to leave. Road Yes, a rare flat. Seen grazing girls, 5,6-year-old Mo Yang, was expelled hundreds of sheep. Holding her camera, pulls out all the small change to her. Tibetan Mastiff in the distance looked alert, not daring went to shoot it. Days discoloration, fear to rain, resumed their progress.
OK had several years, the sky was clear up, Tibetan changeable weather, we did not encounter any danger in this trip can be considered good fortune. There is a small village, a typical Tibetan architecture, take horse manure, cow dung, etc. put on the wall, both warm and dry after a fertilizer. Foreigners shot non-stop, thinking that fresh. There Tiaodan villagers came out to see us, prosperous and is heard, is still not under the firewood and-run shadow, hiding in the wall, secretly see us. Took mineral water and other ham resting on the ground, he would not come. Phase as a friend smiling continued on our way. Rear-view mirror to see him come out carefully, we sent him to pick up a gift.
Soon out of Shigatse, you can see the roadside wall has a large print, writing a thank Shanghai ** District, thanked Shanghai ** enterprises, see our hearts warm. Passing a school, the driver said a car with water, we have to look at the way around. Scattered in a classroom of students sitting in each age, a short pencil in hand can no longer be short and written in a book imprint wipe the writing, there are faint traces of concave. Dodo of the flagpole to see the light, we have come up with the national flag, bolt on the rope to rise. This is a very unconscious movements, which we have been to Everest plane with the flag in such a particular time and place so that we are so excited, but we can not guarantee that no one back to our own lives, it will be stored where it is more than to stay where they are needed. Where mind is led by a teacher, almost all students are set to the playground and opt salute. Lane's where we made a deep embarrassment. Accompanied by foreigners also have lowered hat, took part in this little ritual. Along the way, due to cultural differences, we can not fully integrated the atmosphere at this moment called them Chinese Qi Jing. My heart is very slow, that do not know the specific originally. The Tibet line, the way to see foreigners than Chinese, during which the feelings are real, and many people stranded in the city to aid Tibet, many foreigners also come, but integrated into the civil. Sometimes we feel that this is a fragile and depressed.
The old legend: the goddess has three children, eldest is the Yangtze River and her younger brother is the Yellow River, is the youngest Brahmaputra. Speeding car out of the window is clear holy Brahmaputra. I saw the door leading to the soul.
Back to Lhasa, many are feeling these days, I have to re-examine with this plateau city. Bid farewell to some friends, farewell to some friends in Chengdu, the aircraft landed at the Shanghai Hongqiao Airport, we held a farewell to some people. The United States no longer remember the boy's name, but remember that he stuttered at the airport with the Chinese say, I in Detroit, you want to come.
Tibet did not come until Tibet is a dream, then returned from Tibet, it is still a dream, but we never have a chance Zaiqu to achieve it.
Year, around them changes. Boyfriend gone, fell in love with another woman. Friends finally admitted that he was GAY. The work of twists and turns.
In April 2002, I was in Shanghai suburb houses on the 4th floor, window to the sun drying of the cell house, to help people and do odd jobs, earning their living.
With a certain belief, as a sort of ideal, gradually realized that live is not easy, but very cheap.
Yes, this year, like water. If we can not become a bird in flight, I chose to heaven riding on the aircraft.
Rhapsody.
2002.4.14
Appendix:
:) Do not need to apply for Chinese citizenship to Tibet's border card, passport, ID card handy than
:) English, Chinese useful than a lot, even in Lhasa, a lot of BAR and restaurant waiter could not understand the Chinese language. Most of the local restaurant's menu is all in English. In particular, to the pastoral areas, hands and feet than the Chinese to understand.
:) Any person to Everest, Ali Kaplan (Sino-Nepalese border) or camphor Town (Sino-Nepalese border) which requires the border card to Zanda (Earth Forest) also need to apply for culture and inspection certificates in advance. Everest base camp on the need for a second batch of Tibet Tourism Bureau of the special documents, Lhasa could be handled ,1-2 days.
:) The above documents should best be run locally, if the wait until then to do in Lhasa, and only choose to spend a sum of money or to choose to go with the group in the areas.
:) There are foreigners to Tibet with the need to do the border card, is generally not the organization of free activities; want to go to the border areas must travel agent organize groups to go.
:) Can be temporary formed a delegation to Lhasa, the regiment that if any foreigner must have tour guides, tour guides and travel agents can negotiate the issue instead of by the members.
:) The dry season to go, the road safer. More landslides during the rainy season, but the mountain is green, there are pure river of water flowing, beautiful. Sour Milk Drinking Festival in August there is the Sunning of the Buddha.
:) Less than 7 days unless the time to Tibet, otherwise, is not recommended by plane. Plane, then the plateau response adaptation period is very long, there are many things to note, once adjusted properly, is easy to fall ill. The more strong people, some of altitude sickness may be more powerful, but some women were vital capacity is small, almost no symptoms. Can not be cold, can easily lead to emphysema.
:) Basically, do not accept coins, all with notes Settlement
Go to Tibet should bring items:
Clothing: down jackets, sweaters, slippers, fit hiking shoes, hat and gloves need to Gordon Everest, ready to be still out long coat (women can avoid the embarrassment of going to the toilet).
食： 方便面、饼干、罐头。不嫌重的话可以买些黄瓜带去，紫外线丰富不会坏，藏区蔬菜很贵。
药： 红景天、高原安（抗高原反应，一般到西藏3~5天才能没事，最好在去西藏之前一周就开始服用。高原反应如发烧，头疼，恶心，浮肿。）
阿司匹林（每人一瓶，见过几乎所有的老外都只相信这个）
感冒药（不限量，但很重要）
胃药（根据情况）
可溶维生素片（不限量，以2片/天/人为好，比金施尔康有效）
黄连素（少许）创可贴等外伤药（少许，根据个人情况）
其他：睡袋、手电、雨衣、手纸、纸巾、偏正光太阳镜（防雪盲的最好）、防晒霜（SPF40）、洗浴用品、胶卷（我比较过柯达和富士，个人认为户外景柯达200的效果还不如富士100）
Shopping:
宝石，按克卖，最好别买摊上的，假的多，但是店铺里的非常贵，一根短链子，4、5刻指甲盖大的松石就要200左右，但是做工真的非常精致。红珊瑚和天竺也是当地的高原特产。天竺上眼越多越贵，一般三眼四眼的就要50，九眼最尊贵。唐卡价格不详。
绿松石：硬度与玻璃差不多，不规则松石能在玻璃上划动，留不下划痕。蓝色的年份比较新，绿色的年份较陈。比鸽子蛋略大的约20元，含绳链。
蜜腊： 可以用火烧一烧，烧不坏且有松香味的应该更真一些，比鸽子蛋略大的约40元，含绳。
藏刀： 他们自己配在身上的更好一些，和藏人商量，他们一般都会卖。女子的腰饰也是。
碗： 铜镂花的、绿松石的。 20-40元一个，绿松石的很漂亮，不过不会是真的。
尼泊尔出产的铜盘非常漂亮，八廓街卖的比日喀则便宜2/3，小盘如鼠标垫般大15元。
银饰： 30块钱能买一堆，当然不怎么精致的。不镶宝石的手镯10元一个，镶嵌宝石的15-30不等，也有更贵的，但是的确漂亮。箴言的戒指日喀则买5元一个。挂件一般30元。经幡布幔10-20一幅。小的经纶20左右。在上海看到藏饰店里出售的，真是大大的赚了。瞅得我心痒寻思着谋坏呢。
面具： 骨制或者银制。大小也不一。骨制的便宜，100元不到就可以买一个。但是银制的最便宜也要700，忍很久，我终还是没有买:(
藏毯： 小如坐垫的几百，大的则要几万。纯手工编制。很费时。漂亮与否，仁者见仁。
毛皮： 小羊羔的35元/张。不过硝的都不如国外的好。不知遇到潮湿的上海天会变成什么样子。
打火石：非常有意思，如原始人的打石取火，做的如小钱包，最便宜的也要100元。
化石： 海螺等化石在珠峰下会有孩子兜售。
衣饰： 尼泊尔的衣服很别致，衬衣一般150，棉麻质。平时上街也可以穿。我在上海华亭路见过有贩售，价格嘛，嘿嘿，总不会便宜。
:) 起码照一半砍价，总体上日喀则和樟木镇卖得比八廓街便宜。见过有卖人皮鼓（摸上去感觉寒颤），骨盘般大小，600左右。
作者：realyn
