This is a friend of the westbound diary goat mm.
Qinghai-Tibet and Nepal, the Sichuan-Tibet, Xinjiang-Tibet line of some of them have placed, Yunnan-Tibet line part of the collated.
This is touched my diary and recommend it to you.
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I am still far away from heaven? "The five" text: Goat (Goat)
The new line Yecheng, Xinjiang, Tibet - Lhasa
Sunny Monday July 9
Ostrich and I split the door in the Corps, he went to KASHGAR plane returned to Urumqi, I Tibet.
Military vehicle was very slow, about five days to. According to the stipulated time to the depot closed. 30 is the transport of military missions, specifically for Shiquanhe resupply troops. Usually seven days made a trip vehicles, from the April pulled in October, and then back to Urumqi, for closing off hills for the winter snow.
Today, the task of real-Yecheng to the library to. 160 km. Among them, seven in connection with vehicles that have 12, nine in connection with vehicles that have 14, the car generally three soldiers: the driver, deputies, as well as a cadre, and then ride all the people, mostly soldiers, and then there is a relationship between people, as I am a student. I give to arrange deputy battalion commander's vehicle, is 7 with 11.
The scenery on the road in general, are mostly bare mountains and sand and gravel beach, I soon had a nap. Wake up, the car had been open until I do not know where we are. Surnamed Zhang, deputy battalion commander, is a pretty talking people, enthusiastically introduced me to the way the scenery, but I still had from time to time narrowing his eyes last night and sleep late.
To the library to be the afternoon, I went to seek shelter in the depot, the most expensive rooms have 15 yuan / day. I remember that the book will say this is 10 yuan, I have argued for a long time, on duty said that I really stingy, I do not bother to say, and 15 yuan to 15 yuan bar, outside quite chaotic. Toilet water is not convenient, nor safe, but added another warrior named Sun Qiang, nice, hot, carefully arranged everything for me, but also told me something happens to him.
Military depot of the room quite clean, but also electricity, diesel power generation, only eight or nine pm to 12:00, water may not necessarily, generally give you a thermos flask, my room is 4 earth, no door locks, Sun Qiang, said living here is absolutely safe.
Out, had nothing better to shoot the photos, a young officer accosted up, I told him my situation, he still came from Fujian, a female college student studying tourism was very surprised, we are simply to chat room will be days.
He called the summer of winter, is Shiquanhe garrison troop transport soldiers, more than seven years had done. 78 years, born November 19, actually smaller than me 7 days, but it seems much more mature. He listened to me talk about our experiences over the last tour is simply an exaggeration to surprise, because he was unable to cross to bear, he could not believe that I go into the mountains with only six capsule Pakistan. He also told me many Shiquanhe things, such as Shiquanhe in order to invigorate the economy and the implementation of "three-year open door" policy, saying that after five years in the above soldiers get paid, he would now be 2,600 yuan / month, but also a six-month holiday. As long as you run, on time and pay taxes, does not matter what kind of trade, so where the casinos and Miss particularly high. Law and order is not very good. 0:00 later, outsiders do 4 the best swim I was most terrible news is that the cheapest accommodation above 100 yuan / day. Gosh, I do not know the depot being willing to accommodate me, and I simply can not afford to live, I have only had one thousand yuan. He advised me to hurry back to the Shiquanhe around in circles on the list, but also for example, there are two European women were raped car ride locals, he says, I have one Leng Leng, because to reach Lhasa from the bar where cars can reach only.
Away until the summer of winter, Sun Qiang, a knock on the door again. Ask what he was in need of help. I said no, he was passing on again and I talk on the. He was engaged in photography and computers, it is admire my courage, but do not worry my safety, he made a lot want me to pay attention to, especially the ride thing, I have not from the two European women, the violence to recover He also told me that a more than 40-year-old foreign women have been raped things. For the two things I wanted for a long time, drowsily's not just when to sleep.
Wake up, getting dark, and he come to leave here tomorrow to ask the master of time.
Passing through the barracks only to know where the driver lived in the shop pass with a built-in backpack, deputies sleep in the car. Battalion commander Well, think like me, live in the depot, the conditions will be much better.
July 10 Tuesday Sunny
7:30 get up 8:00 start kuda - San Shili, 200 km.
Along the way you can see some snow-capped mountains, and back-thrust of the way the river is also more, Fortunately, big trucks, Dongfeng powerful special Meng, Britain Britain to have passed, but the way things are a lot of tire burst, and we always stop, repaired, only to come along.
Master drive surnamed Liu, Southerners, there are 2078 years of age, his deputy was a soldier, it has also had four years of age. He rarely opened, in addition to good road, generally to do some repair things, or hands-on mission. Deputy Battalion Commander has more than 40, and is responsible for supervision, Liu master drive too bad, he would open, verbal abuse, an emergency is called: "Do not open for me get out!" Hungry, and he was called "eat Diansha ?. " Primary Master on the turn gave him something to eat, returned to the paper dry, and then he would bottle what Wang Chuangwai fling, but I have never seen two instructors to eat something, even though they have done up.
Of course, the deputy battalion commander and I are very happy to talk about, such as he took reporters to Beijing, Hong Kong people what the mountains, they all left souvenirs, and what he went to the local啦, Yi Che is a few hours. The strange thing is, he would suddenly stop and tell just what the master Liu opened poorly, and then continued to Kan has. I also have a ride no one take the land and talk to him because I have plenty of time. But talk about a gift I deviates come, digress, I am a beast, but also take what is not decent, getting pictures okay.
Deputy battalion commander, said foreign women were raped little things, only heard that the Japanese have a very rich, in the Shiquanhe were killed. The news is not so bad, after all, I am not rich.
In the military depot of the former 500-meter parking, said the deputy battalion commander down to eat, I said, too tired, do not eat the. He repeatedly invited two master has asked me to give him face, I had to get off, because yesterday it had rejected before.
There is still a military depot near the restaurants and dance halls, is crossing the driver services, all with wood, metal, adobe bricks, and even mixing boards take up. Water is the pick came, electricity and use of forces station, to open six months a year, mostly in Sichuan, Yecheng's. Boss said the mountain does not make money here can also be handed over to raise the rent a little road, bitter save money in 2012, to the foot of the mountain development. Here is a soldier other than the driver.
No food is good, mahjong, deputy battalion commander first hit. Came one after another battalion commander, company commander, battalion commander's girlfriend, open table to eat, to be honest, eating is not very happy, food sub-population. Here things are not sour, that is done, but also special hemp special spicy, we do not know, there is nothing common topic, but also wasted a lot of time. I really do not stay down, and afraid that I am sorry to go, really uncomfortable. Honestly, I prefer to talk and eat noodles soldier, an officer with the gang, and Huabutouji, but also see their special corrupt life, terribly sad. Battalion commander in order to escape the invitation of a day to be fixed half brains.
Later, Deputy Battalion Commander has helped me to open a triple room, and the other two do not live free.
Very late. Small master to deliver water, he had to wait on a battalion commander of all, sad to say for him.
Wednesday July 11
Yes and the soldiers ate breakfast together, they sang "Unity is strength", but I've forgotten the words. Breakfast is better than I imagined, a table with bread, rice porridge, six dishes.
10:00 departure, San Shili - Hongliu Beach, 120 km.
Has entered the Kunlun Mountain Range. One with a snow-capped mountains on either side. Method of Direct distance. Earth-rock mountainous pile mountain to mountain gully erosion climbed, I really feel Yardang Landform. However, the resulting travel difficulties. Road, good times and bad, Tang Shui, moving stone roads, broken bridge, there is sand washed down from the hills, the risk of sand beach with sparkling mica that is sparking. Ali areas where mines are very rich.
Deputy battalion commander said that 62 years ago this is a sidewalk, the Sino-Indian war, the state cast their points before the repair of the sidewalk! 95 years and repaired once, but the road is still difficult to walk a lot. He said that in front of a battlefield. Several abandoned mud is said to be the headquarters of the year. Across the mountains are the martyrs cemetery, security and fall asleep ten and early twenties than 100 soldiers, are the year guerrilla warfare in the Sino-Indian groups in the sacrifices. Small master point of the three cigarette, he said that military vehicles passing through here to go back to the cigarette lighter, said incense, and comes back empty when you get off to worship on the look and pour some wine, and speak, he said that these are the heroes. Now an officer are stupid. His uncle is the year's company commander, is now a general. My eyes can not help but fall quickly tear. Teens dolls, but only with the Kunlun Mountains is always accompanied by a. And such a cemetery, there is a bigger Yecheng.
Off, is still Jiangying Zhang Tuoqu eat, is still boring. As we prepare to eat, a driver hanging bottle entered. He caught a cold, but had, on more than 6000 meters of Jieshan Osaka. He lay back room, we are eating and drinking in the outer room. In particular, who had a battalion commander, I see him it unacceptable and does not seem like the military, arrogant, rude, rude, the whole Hong Kong film's villain gun.
I almost could not eat something, for taking the time to find the two master go. They repair until 9:00 before I came back, eating a bowl of a few one-sided. We are happily talking, deputy battalion commander called me to eat meat, I said do not eat, he was dead lift I Quzuo had. I only sat for a moment they came out, lying on the car, how come it Peike coming?
Liu master test finished cars back to sleep, the small master wait a deputy battalion commander wash. I sat alone in the vehicle, the dark one. 3 days, and force strict hierarchy inside me for the tongue. Like to sell at lower levels, like drive to drive to, a Chief Executive who popular to drink hot, and do not give you the money. Bosses did not say, because they do business to rely on the pulling cargo, they had a chance to curry favor with it. I am so angry and helpless. I do not want them together. I just want to talk with two masters, listen to their mind what to say.
Late at night, Deputy Battalion Commander is still sitting in my room, say rambling words. Master gave me a small borrowed from the hotel for a pot of water, I wash and wash, it is hope that he consciously back, but he did not mean that. He said something not right there! In his address to me to stay when the lights go out, he was grinding for a while and asked my address, I certainly would not tell him. I politely asked him back.
Wrote a diary middle of the night. I plugged the door shoot, but the sound of footsteps from time to time and I am worried. Is being written here, when suddenly someone knocked on the door, my Xinxuan, and sat quietly. He shouted the name of a male homosexual, I am busy cried: Who? Here is the girls lived. He said: I'm sorry! Miss! Footsteps into the distance. I am a man in a loose down. Like science fiction writing, the world's only you are a person, all of a sudden knock on the door came the sound of ghosts do not want to live in such a place, each sound seems to imply a danger. Just my nerves stretched too something. Door rang, its limits are. Later, the broken, broken Ye Hao, broken sleep.
Thursday July 12
Daze and let the wake of the small master. 5:10. Today's most difficult task. From the Hongliu Beach - DORMA, 360k, to bring up Jieshan Osaka.
In the dark, we lighted forward. Reminiscent of the quiet valley. Originally lights is a very good film material. But from the unstable and can not produce the effect of imagination, had to give up the idea.
Climbed over Qitai Osaka, is the day broke. The scenery here, mutations in both sides of the mountain away, but the snow-covered, to highlight the large tracts of sand and little stones. Net is a sand, reddish sand. Start but also has bare, and later out of a number of small alpine plants, also braved the piles of snow on top, like clouds of cotton, Shashi lovely. If you do not remember correctly, which is called Androsace. Heard here, called the Mustang Beach, past wild horses, wild ass, Tibetan antelope haunt, and now gave lighting, and only occasionally come to patronize the wolf has.
Deputy battalion commander told me that there is an old man, probably a little brain disease, and believe that that path can return to Sichuan, because he is Sichuanese. Therefore, from Yecheng walk to Tibet. Force May 31 at the library to find him, and how to persuade will not work, car is not sitting, only leave him some food. He probably also to the Road classes, depot to fight for something to eat. Apart from a broken cotton-padded jacket, nothing. I do not know dead or alive.
Bay, the beach is often leak a clear green water, some small, some a little taste of highland lakes, but you Do not let its beautiful appearance to thoroughly puzzled, and the water contains a lot of minerals, humans can not eat, and As we speak, we pass the "tianshuihai" depot, and this is one of the highest elevation of several depot, and about 4825m, where bad weather, only a few old soldiers guarding, drinking water is from tens of miles outside the wells pull it, "tianshuihai" is about a kind of desire that bar!
Pathfinder of the tractor back to report that Jieshan snow from top to bottom may be hard on the. Deputy battalion commander, said the return on, no stopped and so on.
17:00 more than the team to a small point, there are restaurants, there is accommodation, but not the depot, I began some sad, and overwhelmed for several days of nosebleed is more powerful, and the first does not take the pain, but trapped. I drowsily to sleep for a while, this is not too Jieshan only here, so do not know when to go, sent a tractor to explore the way to go, and I Jiangdajingshen, eating two pieces of watermelon, Eurya the bag around town, not a bad scene, next to a small lake, green. The lake is the snow-capped mountains, hand-washing can also eat on the other dreaming. The Hotel where a few, almost all of the tents ride.
I just lie down for a while, around the crows flying around on numerous than the chicken heads large, dark hair, will Xiren's. Heard here, the person died because of altitude sickness, if not promptly buried, let crow food, and I do not die! On the other side of a row, is not good, spit watermelon whole, or it go! Do not give birds bitten by.
I want a bowl of noodles, almost without food put down, and returned to the car went to bed.
Had never sleeping, always felt at midnight to be out of the bus, and head a little pain, breathing out the flow, and the old perception of the inhaled is full of industrial emissions, can not be used, but also suck suck again, all his mother is not oxygen, sad dead! I can not sleep.
July 13 Friday
Drank a point of rice porridge, I sleep under, and we have slept 11 pm.
Jieshan is still snow, tractor stuck, and people will never come back, God, gave tractor stuck, and there are no wrong?
Every few minutes there are soldiers told me to get up, eat, and I said let me lay bar! Something really, really not, just want to lie, maybe I can not sleep, can not think, but at least not uncomfortable. If I stood still dizzy, if lying down, nothing at all. I asked them to call hemp, and later arguments are simply ignored, a veteran came, he said: "The small head, do not sleep, and sleep in such a way that we are afraid of here can not sleep, people are very easy to sleep in a sleep Over the past, do you think What kind of place, is called the dead ditch, ditch the dead! "
Dead groove! Dead groove! ! !
In fact, the call quanshuigou due to passing people get on the ground, and only so many months since the terrorist's name.
More than half of the reaction of the soldiers have headache, feel dizzy, I can not sleep. There are two doors on a soldier lying on the ground Ting Ting has spent limousine and oxygen rush back to Yecheng overnight bag, and battalion commander in the hands of oxygen and drugs, in a newspaper of its use only under emergency situations, at least ensure that a person 20 hours to survive, it must remain in this period of time taken to Yecheng hospital where he was forcibly pulled up and eat, endure you will get over it, unable to eat, you're finished, dead, and only then ditch 5000 more, it Jieshan it? More than 6000 then? I had a Tai Panji Aiming and trotters, drank a mouthful of tea, but also stayed to sleep by. Do not underestimate the dead ditch, elevation is not high, but the unique terrain, let him become the new possession of the most dangerous place online, Jieshan but not so terrible, if the passing Actually, I'm what most uncomfortable few hours, but we are now are getting stuck, and I do not know until a few days left.
Tonight I slept in tents in bed, sleep in the car they say is good, tents Liren more middle of the night is not enough oxygen, the soldiers were not stand the headache, they stand up Zhuanquan Quan, like dead bodies, I also a sleepless night, 'd love pores as large as the nose, but did not try to breathe with all his mother did not know what use, from the mouth into the number, and from the mouth and exhaled the amount of a surprisingly clear head, you have so helplessly, the distinctly afflicted.
July 14 Saturday Qing
The spirit of a lot of the morning, and forcing himself to eat a bowl of porridge.
Sat in the car diary of a sudden, on the snow, and there is hail! What do you want it! This! So much sun!
I do not know when to drive, my border card will expire soon.
Heard that the last convoy of cement shipped Jieshan sleepy 10 days, eat anything, even the dead pigs eat.
I now face is white, the lips are blue, the nose in the blood, waiting for breakfast on the go!
I even was told to go on the 18th.
An officer of the cards to gamble, a soldier's car, me? Can only be watched crows circling in the air. Shuttle in the clouds, the dead to tell the truth groove is a beautiful place, there is no place I began to inquire about cars passing by, you can take along take along, but people have heard of local car ride, if the guest response was nobody's. Some people died, and in situ buried or burned tires and leave it broken, women riding ideally even more expensive, but the ride over mountain where cars more than half the mountain escort lady, acquaintances ride vehicles or know people's trucks.
Too hot to sleep last night, and today I have not even quilt, and the two military coat to lie down, and next to a small male soldiers, the first trip into the mountains, very sad, very sad, I think he is less painful, and my heart really uncomfortable I would not say such a small child to a place the army, for whatever reason, are only 17, 18-year-old children.
At night, traffic and constant, is Jieshan pass, and two clinical soldier Taikoudakou breathing, still not out of the woods, the small master Yan at midnight suddenly sat straight in bed, very long time, that she lay with her. I Fortunately, sleep! But it is also daze, the brain like ants chewing on something, like whole body was something wrong and do not know how to do, and sometimes had to open their eyes wide to listen to dogs barking outside the tent.
July 15 Sun Qing
Is sunny. Notify the mountains.
Jieshan there are four main difficulties on each pass dozens of cars are not parked, and some cars had been stuck for a few days, and the driver simply boil water for cooking, such as Mao Tse-tung to learn to fight a "protracted war."
This is simply not called the road, every moment, they took the tools to build roads, over a car repair once again, until all vehicles in the company before. I am trapped, and each time eyes closed caboose into being, when both tried to seize the chair, any bad road car over and over again, every time I suspected to have been Shuaiguo several times. Jieshan over time, but also under a lot of hail, Jieshan intent of the new western provinces that border points, over pillar, I photographed them, in order to piece of stone, we all came to not be easy, then, there are three cars stuck passed, and they can only imperial goods, re-loading, more than 6700 meters above sea level, the young soldiers who insist on shouting slogans and simple, with a strong reaction to the altitude moved nearly four tons of food, until the lips purple, Taikoudakou to puffing.
This scene, it is seen heartache, always the most junior people sacrificing their lives, the enjoyment of their superiors. And I can not give them trouble has been very good.
Walked 60 kilometers a day before, we are the dark at a place called "room" in town stay there, and said the town, without water and electricity, only larger than the depot, but they can see Tibetan, and dark, Like a ghost standing in our border, and to use a sheep for our radio. Dinner is a cross-country 60 Division stationed at the comrades cooked food for us, on the sleep you personally would like to approach two people in a nearby elementary school teacher beat ground floor shops, and I sleep in the car, deputy battalion commander.
I wrapped two military coat chair sitting in front of driver's deputy battalion commander was lying behind.
He began his speech, speeches, I pretended to fall asleep Tingzhaotingzhuo midnight, I suddenly woke up, cold feet had been frozen, and the body is cold, sitting sleeping, a move which is aching, 4 weeks Jingde terror, I do not know when they sleep later, wake up when the second time because I found I was moving, I found that he was a deputy battalion commander in the foot from the nausea and incomparable quilt inside out, the frame in a chair on the back and forth rubbing my leg, although the military across the thick coat, I quickly threw up, and I hinted at several times unsuccessfully, it filled with good intentions, so that he do not catch cold, and his feet back, he repeatedly put forward When I say an excuse to get off the toilet, has been spent under the car for a long time, hoping big goat asleep, or understand what I am looking for him under the stairs, and then returned to the car, he was not trying to shake with my hand, wanted to tie my face with a beard and finally simply overwhelmed by the quilt for me to sleep, he sat, I have Zhuangshui refused.
My patience is very extreme, and now can not provoke him, if he Yifa torch I threw here, I will Siwuquanshi, my patience gave him a times insatiable. He began to say, little sister you let me sleep, and you let me sleep. Fool all know what this means, I would actually like to be installed as an idiot do not know, has been loaded to the end, he also tired, had to give up the idea, I have nothing to nervous, according to sleep worthwhile.
July 16 Mon Ching
One to the day, he seemed all right, I would be happy that they are installed them there. Only after the separation, he often said to give his reason for sending photos, the future will have the opportunity to meet and so on, I should be with, I think, this opportunity will not be there, at least I did not leave his address.
After a very hard red clay Osaka, we finally break out all the difficulties, tonight to take root DORMA tomorrow, went to Shiquanhe had.
Small master Yan Long has just always say that I am reluctant to go, he was less than two years old, I have a sister college exam next year, because I quite like his sister, and on the road, he simply had to take care of me in every possible way.
On the road, I was everyone's concern, because of my experience, because I am a student, perhaps even more because I am a girl, I actually older than many people, but they were when I was little girl, of course, because in the same vehicle relations, Liu Yan master master and I am more concerned about the direct point, but other people always secretly, through their two asking my body, I am grateful from the bottom of my heart to see the faces of their naive traces of altitude sickness, see that they let an officer to make the drive to go, I really feel bad for them to see them in more than 6000 meters of Jieshan road, I had to admire them, and small-Yan master always said I was lucky, come across them , he asked me to ride in the future have to take a military vehicle.
Of course, the deputy battalion commander of the special care given to me on the road, I also have to appreciate, not to mention his later whether there is divided loyalty to a child, but they are there, I can not deny that this is human. This situation is just so that I recall, he told me of care, always keeps me on the latter ignored the past.
Do not put a small masterpiece, but also no anti-heart.
Fortunately, to the Shiquanhe tomorrow, and tomorrow I can make phone calls.
July 17 Tuesday clear
Today's way too good to walk more, relatively speaking. But the whole road in the mountains above 5000 meters walk through scenery never let you out teeth, the surrounding hills of the mountain looks very inconspicuous, but think you have more than 5000 meters height, you will suddenly realize , the original they are Jufeng. But on seeing the car Mercedes-Benz seems to plain sand, you be hard to believe that their own high-higher than China's land on top of more than 5000 meters呀! Yes several skyscrapers?
Although called the county on earth is indeed a small can, a street would be finished, but it is actually a tourist destination, because of the beautiful spots of public lakes located in the county seat outside.
Less than Rutog County, the first two hours in your car along the dirt road Bangong running side is dust and rubble, the other side of the lake is Qingqing. Bangong is about 160 square kilometers, of which 50 square kilometers in India, I heard that half of the salty lake, half light, in our country is fresh water, in India it is salty, the lake famous Schizothorax, in addition to addition , ducks, swans, waterfowl is to cope with their numbers in Lake Bird Island to a spawning season, eggs, more gains you can not gain a foothold and unfortunately I just missed the chance of.
Along the way I saw a few white, very few birds passing from the lake, appearing with a few Watermark.
At this time the sun is very good, the changing altitude clouds over all your imagination, Didi De seems within reach; more, but does not set close, but a small duo, small duo, and their shape, but even then wire with other will not let you lose the opportunity to see the blue sky, so you do not ignore their existence, it is precisely this combination of harmony, so that you thoroughly enjoy a "blue sky" flavor. A low line of sight is the red earth mountains, dimly snow cover, and then the three kinds of dark blue dark blue of the lake. Feeling, three kinds of state, but are all harmonized to dissolve together, tell us a noun: "plateau."
Human cruelty sometimes had to make you wonder, we endure the thousands of miles to come see the demeanor of Shenshui Afterwards, I will also enjoy "wild duck meat" and "Swan egg" really achieve "share the mouth a treat." The slogan that I pass by a tourist village Bangong can see, the deputy battalion commander, Comrade seem to take pride in eating wild duck, and frequently to show off to my experience of the past, eating eggs, until found my expression of scorn and cynical speech before Hei hei hollow laugh 2 sound, jokes: "They all told me to eat! are they told me to eat."
Day Tubing station lunch well, actually there is a fruit, which allow a few days I have not seen a pineapple awakened doubled, although this is only canned food.
Out of land not far from the Japanese rely on your left will appear a strange mountain, all-red of the rock. Smooth, shiny, there is no rule to pile up a one straight * to send, but the seam and the seam is between the striking coincidence, a little taste of the pyramid, towering, mighty awesome, the taxi companies under it, you suspect the right-a-million hit, scared cold sweat Zhi Mao, will be eye-a look, laughing, this is not somebody to stand in there? But even so, I am still in fear over a dozen kilometers.
Roadside signs have been shown to 1015K, and immediately went to the Shiquanhe, and cars stopped to make a small rest, soldier were taken from the roadside to a kind of grass, pulled roots, shape into a pinch, plug into each other's body, It went so far as firmly stab the grass, upright Site fluttering in the wind, at first glance, was inserted as the person is like wild boar, arrhizus Haomao upright, Shashi funny, and later they told me that the grass yellow Manshan see like supple, lovely, there is a scary name: Feedthrough grass! Geraniol Yanger Once stained it is difficult to remove, so grass-roots of the thorn on the blood flow along the atrium, causing lesions, severe, would the death of livestock.
Beautiful appearance, can be beautiful does not mean that behavior.
Osaka along the upward until Peak leaning over a look, a small city on foot of the mountain, oh, God, Shiquanhe to!
This is sort of a small town west Shiquanhe long stream into Kashmir became the source of the Ganges river in the north Shiquanhe the south Gar County, where a homogeneous finished construction of the Tibetan people Daoshi a half, few Uygur people, here is the implementation of "three-year open economy," many provinces where the building free of charge to drive the local economy, but also attracted a large number of Sichuan, Hunan, migrant workers, salary is high, with a monthly 2000 or so, but the harsh environment and blocking the formation of traffic here with the extraordinarily high prices, therefore, would like to go from here Amoy Golden, is not easy.
The prices here compared to Urumqi, 2 to 10 times higher than the range, I was almost unable to move.
Because the military depot too many people, I had relatives staying in a soldier home, and his sister lived in a bed, stay outside too expensive, a minimum 35 yuan Ali hotels.
Staying in an older sister is an open clinic, and in front of a pharmacy, followed by the kitchen and the bedroom, there is no water, here 0:00 to 4:00, the streets running water drainage, access to water were prepared in advance of the vats, but the streets not designed to drainage pass on into the stinking ditch their noses rather than pedestrians. As for the electricity is sporadic, not to mention the toilet, ran 1 km bar!
Has been 10 days without a bath, and I spent more than ten dollars, and enjoyed a one-off hot shower. It suddenly can not do the laundry, but also a headache up.
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⑤ sky still early, I take the opportunity to shop, no lights, only the shop where the faint light that lights up around you Yingyingchuochuo people to, in fact, the streets were Tingduo, and on both sides of the food stalls competing compete for clients, vegetarian all 10 Yuan, Yun Cai at least 20 yuan, when the most expensive watermelon sold for 15 yuan a pound, Disko. Karaoke dance halls and other entertainment everything, ears to make the popular rechargeable jin's "brother呀! Sister呀!" And other love songs, standing on the second floor of the escort lady leaned on the window side windows scratched Nongzi, suddenly cried out: " yo! Bing Gege! Long time, fast Kuailai Ya! quick up呀! "No wonder he is called the Lion King" Tibet Little Taiwan, "It's worse than呀! But heard that the whole of China's most beautiful escort lady were here yo!
July 18 Wednesday Qing
Mistakenly heard a car today, to Zanda, I arrived early in the morning, and the results futile.
Ali is still the hotel to the one of the most expensive room, washed some good, here is a one-star hotels, but the running water and electricity is still common, I like the bathroom shaped like a dummy.
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⑥ and non-leap-master and master Liu said yes to the visit "Kong Fansen" the tomb of a martyr in the cemetery outside the city, the trio stopped by a TAXI, the driver is a Tibetan, but speak fluent Chinese, he was heard to the cemetery and asked: "You seem very fond of Chinese Kong Fansen!" I said with a smile: "okay, but he made a point of how many something!" But we Tibetans do not like him. Many people went to his grave at night, urinating, I have engaged in similar acts! "He's very proud, said:" Why? "I'm like a treasure found in the desert." You do not know him in our hearts Tibetans very bad! He played a lot of Tibetan girl, Han is also yes, he brought his mistress in Xinjiang tourism, the results of a car accident is dead! We know all cheer! "" Alas! "I almost never called out, the original cause of death of the old comrades-hole there is still such a bizarre version, but I heard that he had inspected in Xinjiang," tragic death ". However, this may not be pirated versions of the old comrades-hole Ali economic pulled one, a bit small problems in life need not be too surprised that the Communist Party is generally no better, said that bad, if not for Ali, Dao Hai Qu Shi missed this.
Mausoleum little more than a hundred large and small, martyrs bar! One of the largest tomb is the Lian-3 company commander, he was then, when the liberation of Ali devotion, for his hero, regardless of Han Chinese from Tibet are admired him from the heart, the second-largest tomb of the old hole comrades, but fortunately, it is hot I turn around the tomb for several laps, did not smell any urine, smell of urine smell, but drivers who thought the words, but can not help but laugh.
Night rushed to the military depot, and their drink is Yan Instructors of the passengers, they are secretly, because it is not allowed, but an officer is in a flagrant, they Bianhe Bian said that the army how to how dark and said that people outside How do I do not know how to publicize how to how to smell dog feces, in fact, want to quit to go home.
Small Yan master sent a bracelet to me, he hoped that we often contact, he said he wanted his sister also college.
July 19 Thursday Qing
Sleep till 11 o'clock, to check out, if tomorrow a car, and I live in the car tonight. A soldier next day car camp people to Zanda, he has helped me a voice asked for a seat in one.
Mom called, she had already heard my voice more than a month, and her attitude makes me very surprised, actually I wish I would have fun, I thought I will curse roundly meal, but for a father, it is estimated I would wish fulfilled.
To the post office sent a card for himself, and the streets were women selling jewelry in English, Japanese, Chinese, Tibetan greeting me, and simply hold me to the past, where things are shipped from Lhasa, but the I speak to are not necessarily higher than under the price of Lhasa, and linked the two go hand-Lian!
Military vehicles in the Royal goods, I Ali hotel in the afternoon diary, with the advent of the tourist season, more foreign tourists, they came from Mr Ip Shing-or KASHGAR, and then play Kailash Mansarovar Yatra, return to Shiquanhe, then to LHasa , but they are chartered to go to provide the news I was not very useful.
Willian, and Thomas met purely by chance, they just Burang return, I just want to know something about Champlain things, so we Meet for dinner Unfortunately, 30 groups with seven large Bing Gege is also arranged to meet for dinner at this Sichuan Pavilion , we shall hit the little master said Yan invited me to dinner tonight, and in any case have to pull me away, my dishes have been applauded, and say supposedly is what I please little Yan master fishes, so I pushed and said Good night, ask them to drink.
I just accidentally ? ? point of the mushroom slices do not want to dish it in this play into the hands of two brothers from London, finished and you still let me write on the Chinese menus bear in mind that the people around you think I am a tour guide, asking how much money I can get, in fact, I just want to take this opportunity to learn and to practice English, after dinner, Willian straight to say that he invited me to dinner, so I insist on keeping their pay, but I convinced him.
To go back, the car had been packed with people, small-Yan Leng Leng looked me straight, I always felt wrong, Huang Yue Internet, slipped out and hit the telephone for nearly an hour before I came back.
我谎说困了要小闫回去，他却因为我想听CD机而找了两个小时的电池，等他回来时我装睡了，明天我要搭车去札达，我不想留下什么事来。当小闫第二次醉熏熏地回来喊我喝酒，谈天时，我仍是装得很困，没醒。最后，他锁上车门走了，我知道，他肯定非常失望，但我没有别的办法，我只是一名游客，飘忽不定的影子，我没有权利留下什么，没有根的树是开不出美丽的花儿的。
7月20日周五晴
醒来时，已经八点了，小闫居然没叫我。
收拾好一切，才发现小闫红着眼睛在车门边看着我，昨晚，他又送给我一个佛像，祝我一路顺风。
坐上汽车营连长的65689的车，已经没有时间和小闫告别了，我想这样也好，至少，我不忍心再看到他红红的眼睛，轻轻地来，就还让我轻轻地走吧！
从狮泉河到札达有240多K，这是土路，另有一条路是稍微好走点的，但有420，我们今天走的是便道。
通过小子大坂，老子大坂，路就难走多了，只剩下60多K的札达沟了，这是自然形成的河谷，四面不通风，所以空气热度特高，札达沟进去才几K，就可见两岸巍巍的土林了，札达土林基本分二种，一种是由山顶直向下分裂，形成似蒜瓣的图案，一种是巨石整齐排立，似罗汉摆阵，土林一直延深几十公里，非常壮观，比起忽尔禾来，似乎更让人敬畏，毕竟我们在谷底，处于劣势，此时正好乌云密布，起风了，黑压压的。更让土林加了三分恐怖，置于谷底，你不得不承认自己的渺小，更甚之，惊异于大自然的艺术。
远远的，一片土林之下，有几座屋子形成的一片平地，这就是著名的札达县。
小，实在是小，就像一片菜地，但明明近在发前，你却绕了半个多小时才到。原来象泉河流过此地，给予札达水的补给，然后匆匆跑到印度去了。
告别了汽车营，我来到武装部招待所投宿，结果不幸，今天游客暴多，都挤满了，居然还有上海来的老师。加拿大的Les徒步从圣湖过来，我们要了一间空屋子，升了帐篷睡，一人15元。
7月21日周六晴
早上和几位上海老师到古格王国去，搭他们的顺风车，Les和他的朋友也去。
右格王国离县城有18K，大约半小时到，同车的有一位是负责古格卖票的，他说文物局一共只有四个人，每年负责接待一千多名中外游客。
出了县城，我才知道，土林并非我想象中的那样简单。 “札达土林”，买票的王师傅告诉我，“一共有一百多公里长，以前这里是湖泊，土林是由湖底於泥形成的，后来造山运动使它们见了天日，但由于这些土林溶解性强，稳定性低，所以若雨季分明，则土林就毁了，好在现在札达少下雨雪，但时间长了，什么都会变的！”1982年王师傅来到古格，一年难得见到几个游客，但现在四个人都忙得不可开交，开到古格王国，土林仍在延伸。
远远地，看到一座山头，隐隐几个土堆，偶尔红色外墙，这就是古格王国。
古格王国是九世纪末朗达玛遇刺，吐藩分裂后在阿里地区建权的德祖贡的封国，直到16世纪毁灭，原因不明，整个王国依山而建，山脚下是百姓和奴隶的住地，山腰是僧侣的住地，有百殿（Lhakhang Garpo），红殿（Lhakhang Marpo）等，最高层是王室贵族的住地，有王宫（Palace），集会殿（Du Khang），坛城（Kor Khang），内存大量避画，讲述社会、宗教故事，其中很大一部份关系到修行，佛与神女行欢，结合，繁殖人类的画，佛教中对“生”的概念是十分明确的，除了庙宇外，我们还可以看到一个个隐蔽的洞穴，是当时的房屋，内壁有大量壁洞。正面的、较高的是用来存放佛像的，其它则是用来放灯的，洞的四壁黑漆漆的，是当时洞中人炊烟的结果，此外，山山还有石弹库和许多防雨的城墙，山脚下还有护城河的遗迹。
离洞十几公里，一条仅容脚的小路将我们引向一个干尸洞，洞口有二米多高，爬上一看，尸臭扑鼻，里面太暗，仅能看到几段脊柱骨，依稀可见红色的衣服，大约被杀的是僧侣，类似的干尸洞还有许多。据说，就是那场毁灭性的战争留下的。
我在百度母殿遇见了Les和他的二位外国朋友，其中一位女的偷偷的摄像，被我制止了，后来才知道，他们正好要返回神山，但总不好意思开口搭车，只好硬着脸皮一个个游客问去，结果他们都要去狮泉河和日土的，终于问到一对年青男女，他们倚在殿前休息，我抱着一丝希望问了问，他们叫我晚上到古格宾馆找他们。
回到武装部，已经三点了，想想到了拉萨再洗澡，就很心疼地花了十五大洋在武警中队洗了个澡，还遇到了一只近二十岁的老狗。
准备好一切，我到右格宾馆找他们，询问明天搭车的事
补充。 ⑦
⑦随便啃了一块压缩饼干，朝古格宾馆走去除了武装部古格宾馆是唯一可以投宿的地方，大概相隔100米吧！没有公路，只有一条坑坑洼洼的小道，一辆车过来，我的澡白洗了。天快黑了，店里面都点上了蜡烛，里里外外围了好几圈人，低着头，叽叽咕咕地也不知说什么，我低头过去，不敢抬头，你所遇的目光可能是非善意的，我走了半天，没碰到宾馆，看到路口一圈人蹲在地上溃天，一律深色的衣服，好像一群乌鸦，一见我过去，全部停了声，盯着我，“请问古格宾馆怎么走？”沉默了半天有人凌空一指我也不辩真逃出来，低头走路，怎么碰到的人都怪怪的！又问了几个人，才在一个小巷里看到一栋二层楼的房子，这也许是中国最破的宾馆了，那二位住在105，是最便宜的房间，一张桌子，四张床，黑呼呼的，十元钱一天，一进去，就见到他们在收拾东西。
这是两位台湾人，他们有自己的车北京吉普2020，他们准备回拉萨，原本我只想搭到神山（Kailash），但想到路上再找车太难了，就准备同他们一起回拉萨，讲好费用是200元，这个价钱太出乎我的意料，因为便宜的只是搭地方车的1/5，第二天出发的时间是五点半。
回去的时候，Les也回来了，他下午去托林寺了，这寺庙很小，且就在城里，昨天一位狗屁司机告诉我要出城20K，我想想就没去了，Les说除了壁画，也没什么，正如古格王国一样，没有毁在五百年前的战火，却死在“十年文革”小兵的手上，Les是外宾，他的门票价格是我们的四倍。
虽然明天要早走，但我睡不着，拉着Les谈天，后来不知什么时候就睡过去了“Goat！Goat！”Les叫我起床，“What time？”“5：30！”什么，我爬起来，Les的闹钟怎么一点用都没有！他们八成走了！
7月22日周日晴
我用了几分钟收拾好一切，匆匆地和Les告了别，天仍是黑的，我深一脚，浅一脚地摸到古格宾馆去，路上边走边乞求上帝保佑我别误了这趟车，很难找到这么便宜的事了！我远远地，好像看到那辆北京吉普，心头一松，果然，他们仍在睡觉，叫醒他们，他们也连叫闹钟不灵，哈哈，真是上天助我们。
就着月光，我们朝普兰的路走，今天要过神山，然后在圣湖边上一个叫霍区的地方过夜，
这两位台湾人一位男的叫高铭和，大约五十几岁，女的叫张淑琴，不到30岁，高先生从事人文自然工作，大约为图片社供片子，是自由摄影师，他去过许多国家，单是Tibet，他几年前来过后，就几乎每年来一次或两次，对Tibet，特别是阿里地区了如指掌，他六年前买了这辆车雇司机为他开车，这次是位叫仁桑的小伙子，令人惊奇的是，高先生四肢的指头已经尽数截去，均只剩下肉乎乎的手掌和脚掌。但他仍是灵活地记录、拍摄。
张小姐是台东一家中学的“童子军”老师，教学生天文、地理，她也酷爱旅游，这次听朋友说高先生要来阿里，也跟着来了。
北京车性能不如丰田，而且这辆车太旧，路上总是停停、修修，高先生又时常要拍照，所以我们走得很慢。
到了巴尔兵站已经是下午三点了，下车到一家馆休息，边喝酸奶边和大妈聊天，不想这位貌不惊人的大妈居然是位高材生，在西藏大学呆过四年，怪不得汉文这么好，她说她原先在噶尔县教书，现在退休了，和妹妹一家在这里开小店为生，正说着，巴尔兵站的二位大兵给大妈看病，我们也该动身了。
四个小时后，我们已经可以看到神山了，这是背面，等转到了正面，你就可以很清楚地看到他的全貌了。岗仁波齐只有六千多米，但孤立一峰，且样子似个大棕子，很与众不同，山顶覆雪，但由于山峰有环形的横向河沟，所以远远看去黑一道，白一道，煞是怪异，正面有一条很深的纵向沟纹，更为它的独特添上一笔，我想可能正是这种与众不同才吸引着无数信徒前来朝拜，转山，这时，天已经非常阴了，岗仁波齐瞬间就隐到乌云后面去了，而对面的纳木那尼峰和拉昂措，却仍在白云蓝天下闪闪发光，纳木那尼是岗仁波齐的妻子，拉昂措叫鬼湖，与圣湖相对。
在山脚下一家“山东饭店”吃饭，碰到一位到叫Wvgou的游客，他花了四天的时间转山，然后等着搭车回Lhasha，高先生说山脚下有一所藏医学校外国捐助的，每年都有志愿的外国教师来这里任教，学生们免费在这读六年学。然后到各地家乡作乡村医生，我们出发时就碰到一位高个金发的帅哥，他是刚来不久的志愿老师。
我原以为可以欣赏到圣湖的风光，但行程的安排却不允许我有这样的幸运，到了霍区（尔）已经是晚上11点，找了一家10元的旅馆，高先生说明天五点半出发。
7月23日周一晴
我睁大眼睛，终于在黑暗中搜索到了一丝圣湖的味道，透过车窗，隐隐见到湖面，较立山丘，它更为明亮，好像还会流动，我贪婪地嗅着，努力让它的形象更确定，但徒劳，我仍只是见到一位小小的光亮在黑暗中，而且很快没于群山间。
我很想停下，却不愿失去搭车的机会，我只好将夜色中的神湖印在心底期望某天能让它还给我一个在秦朗的白天中观赏她的机会。
天亮了，却已没有湖，我只好看旁边的风景了以慰藉，成双成对的鸟儿比翼双飞，小草鼠一见到车子，立刻撒着丫儿乱窜，“嗖”钻到洞里不见了，或者仍是偷偷地伸出个小脑袋，溜着见贼眼乱看，偶有小鹿趴着休憩，见到我们也是慢悠悠地站起，摇头晃脑地走开，听两位骑单车的外国年青人说，他们还看到了熊。
原计划今天宿于仲巴，但车子的钢板断了，我们走得很慢，已经九点了，仁桑说得修车，不能走了。这里是一个叫帕羊的小镇或乡吧！街上的小孩一看到你就大声嚷：“扎西德勒！”震耳欲聋！
一直都是午夜睡觉，今天早了点反而睡不着了，但一听高先生说明天五点出发，吓得把自己塞到睡袋里。
7月24日周二晴
今天是赶昨天的路，距仲巴10K的地方叫牛库，有一家叫“888牛库客房”的小店，慈沛是小店的男主人：他只有15岁，他告诉我们他读到初一，怪不得汉话这么好，他说妈妈和他一起开店，爸爸没有了，有个弟弟在日喀则读书，因为那里的学校好，慈沛很有头脑地向我们介绍开店的经验，你很难相信他只有15岁，这样，也已经1点了，到不了拉孜，明天就得多走110K。
敲开一家旅店的门，黑黑的，店主拿着气灯出来，这家店很大，有十来间房，但黑得有些可怕，不知从哪里传来录相的声音，“哇哇呼呼”穿破黑暗响彻整个夜空，忽高忽低的藏音让我莫名其妙地紧张，总觉得山谷里藏着千年大妖怪，我就搞不懂，没电，哪来的录相？
7月25日周三晴
不停地开，从六点到晚上八点，越接近拉萨，心情越激动。
与高先生和张小姐在路边分手，我叫了一辆三轮车直奔吉日，拉萨还是老样子，吉日仍是吉日，只是北京东路经过改造宽了许多，但人行道还是泥泞。
吉日的留言版仍是写着各种各样有趣的东西，我心情愉快极了，要了一间20元的大通铺，与3位加拿大人挤一块，是1-08室。
迫不急待地洗个澡，上街吃碗米线，给家里打电话，回到吉日房间里已经多了一位来自北京骑单车的小伙子。
7月26日周四晴
很久没这样睡过一个好觉了，一直到九点，然后搬到209，贵五元，但是三人间，早早还没起床就听服务员说同屋的三个加拿大人昨天没交房租，一大早跑了。
很喜欢在拉萨的日子，无忧无虑，懒懒散散，和来自世界各地的朋友谈些漫无边际的话题，然后整天整天的逛街，不买，就是这样一家一家地走去，听着藏族妇女热烈地叫“小姐！便宜便宜的！”“Hallo！Look！Look！”即使你还了一个很低的价，他们也不恼，只是微笑地大叫：“本钱都没有的！小姐！谢谢你了！”但你仍要有讨价的技巧，在这里两三元的东西喊到四十元是十分正常的。
拉萨广场的小市场已经搬到夺底路了。所以从夺底路直到八廓街已经连成了一体，我只是随便逛了一圈，便已是珠石满身了。
因为路费不够，我贴了纸条打算卖包，睡袋和帐篷，问得人多，但都觉得价格贵，28日去昆明，我仍希望有人和我作这笔生意。
上网的费用降到5元，我得以机会清理我那已被邮件挤爆的邮箱。听说去年吉日网吧的上网费是四十元。
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Author: Cuma2001
