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April 16 clear, heavy snow Lhasa - Mozhugongka - satin Temple (62/67 km) total 4514 kilometers we want to go to temple in satin Mozhugongka County, 130 kilometers east of Lhasa, we would also like to return after the Lhasa, the large pieces of luggage on the auspicious day storage, just bring a simple luggage.
Gaisang 10:30 departure would have an appointment today, available at 11 o'clock yet that he did not call the response, we can only drink in the downstairs bar side 'unitary position' side and so on. There are two Japanese tourists are suddenly told us: "He will not come, last time I was also looking for him, but he did not come the next day." These two look like a gloat.
We have heard very surprising, is not it? However, Zhong-ming, he introduced, he and Kelsang had a journey on his assessment is pretty good. When we started down into the trough, ready to change today's journey, Kelsang and his car up. Dawa Tsering, the driver of car is called, is a cousin Gesang. Our long line of six people are getting impatient, jumped on the land-cruiser vehicle to drive on the drive to promote Lydia. Auspicious days to leave, I found that the eyes of two little jealous resentment of Japan.
Auto a left Lhasa, the beautiful city of asphalt on the gallop, the sat in the car, we started to Galsang Xing vindictive force, poor Gesang apologize to us again and again: "Sorry, we only got to the automobile fuel so late The. "
In fact, we are not to deliberately make things difficult Gesang, but afraid of the journey is too boring, he saw a sincere Gesang sample, we forgive him. But I am a bit strange: "Why are those two missed appointments the Japanese say you do?"
"Foreigners in Tibet, there are plenty of travel, they also trouble, so there would be no rental to them." Kelsang explains.
"Then you have to tell people Well, no wonder they say you are, today, we almost believe that you will not come."
We were chatting, we all know each other a lot. Gesang in Tibet to learn English, but also a tour guide license exam. Lydia, bought a unit with tens of thousands of pieces of used cars, and the Gesang stem from these guided tours. Lydia will be in Chinese, sometimes we did not understand the English Gesang say, he and Kelsang to communicate in Tibetan, and then in Chinese tell us. Lydia was also found to hear when we say Cantonese expression response, sometimes lucky, we suspect that Lydia understood that the Guangzhou dialect. We pressed Lydia, if we can understand the words of Lydia, sly smile back to: "do not understand啦, did not understand her."
Hey, but also to learn the tone we speak through our discussions, evaluation Lydia, is the most dangerous man on the 1st cunning, Lydia, also seems to disagree on this title.
Relaxed atmosphere and good road conditions so that we soon arrived at the county Mozhugongka, after been transferred to a small dirt road, rugged mountain roads to get cars up and down bumpy, we can not open too fast, as did just now, and fortunately there is one scenery accompanied, but also through some of the original villages in Tibet.
By three in the afternoon for a long time to a Crossroads, car left a Guairu paths, mountain on the distinctly different, both sides of the towering valley, from time to time to see a small stream flowing through the ground, that we are on a dry river valley in the walk. Both sides of the rugged rocks, weeds, I am surprised in this valley in front of other people living there.
Climb the right side of the valley a vehicle path, slowly climbing up, getting higher and higher above sea level, the sky was beginning to snow, the temperature dropped significantly. We are all bright and sunny day in Lhasa, accustomed to warm temperatures, this time to put on thick clothing, when there is no effect, and now regret it already too late.
After the car stopped and turned around a bend, and in front of a hillside under the bottom, there are a number of houses built on mountains, where snow has covered a whole, but for the hills and the waving streamer, there is not easy to find.
Gesang stone with Lydia, his car fixed at the hill, carrying us into the village. Mountain house is built according to mountains, there is no law, often only to see a turn the a hut behind the trail. The road is very slippery snow, frozen duo duo Suosuo of us followed behind Gesang, deep kick kick shallow walked, we all fear of slipping in the wet cold snow on the ground, his eyes were dead death watch on the ground, it does not pay attention to the nearby environment.
Until the pairs of foot steps on a solid concrete only see that we have come to the hot spring area, and new concrete steps next to the still beautiful footlights, a new falls below a small Mulou hotel seated, the water vapor in small building near the drift, the air becomes warmer in this together, spa necessarily below.
Three-step and two steps down the steps, and finally saw the hot spring, and is still open-air open-ended, the following people who clearly see through the hot spring, one of about 100 square meters one side of the hot springs have been divided into a high stone wall on both sides, men and women The hot springs bubble to one side, but for this open-style spa, you stand a little higher as long as you can see the opposite.
Gesang first took us lived in a Tibetan, we have to lay down their luggage would go visit the hot springs around, two-tier wooden stand upstairs a few Tibetan girls are looking at where our water, straight to see we are only left off a pair of underwear, and Shanshan's brother, said: "When they go away呀!"
LC and I think: "They are simply not prepared to walk away."
No way, in front of their face, stripped naked, jumped into the hot springs were. Warm springs instantly surrounded by the body, good comfort. Spring water is not deep, only, and waist, bottom and walls are paved with stones, looked very nature of the wilderness flavor. At this time the sky becomes a great snow, a one snow falling from the sky over our heads, body soak in hot springs which, though naked, but it did not feel cold, you can also enjoy the beauty of snow filled the , very Japanese flavor of the open-air baths can be here more than 4000 meters above sea level in Tibet, you can also see the colorful prayer flags fluttering in the wind and snow scenes, compared to Japan more interesting open-air baths, this time this scenery, personal want anything else.
Shanshan, YUME, cat three girls in the wall, there cried: "Come see Yeah, here is a good girls body呀!"
If we leave the water, must first Tibetan girl was upstairs to see full-phase, they can see us, we can see them, climbing wall look at the past, and indeed there are several hidden girls soaking in hot springs, all the girls are is naked, except Shanshan wearing bathing suits, anti-do with the new surroundings.
YUME said: "did not lie to you, here is not really very pretty girl."
cat also said with a smile: "They said there was no requirement must be separated bubbles, you can also come with the foam."
Haha, trying to cheat us in the past: "We are bigger here, you come bubbles better."
Soaking in hot springs of course comfortable, you had better be difficult to leave the surface of the water back to wind and snow, until the locals told us not to soak too long, otherwise would have poor health, we bite the one, out of Hot Springs.
Tibetans back to stay home, and the Gesang go tomorrow to discuss burial time.
Gesang said: "Tomorrow 8:00 start."
We are all very strange, Zhong-ming, not to say that days do not light is necessary to climb. cat question to: "start until 8:00, then in time it?"
"Walk 20 minutes went to." Gesang said with confidence.
We still do not think insurance: "or the bar as early as 1:00, 7:00 start."
"No it is so early yet to start?" Gesang repeatedly waved.
But we still insist on starting a little earlier, but also repeatedly to Gesang to confirm our time no problem.
Gesang am sure, finally, with the Chinese stressed that: "Never mind, it does not matter."
It does not matter What does it mean呀: "what is it does not matter?"
"Never mind that no problem." Gesang also put on an appearance to teach everyone to learn English.
We have shouted in his feet kicking in the past: "shit, no problem is no problem."
Later on, we know that in the Gesang's dictionary, 'No problem', or what he called the 'okay' contains the meaning is very, very large, almost million in use. We later learn smarter in Chinese speak out whenever Gesang 'okay', we are particularly conscious, asking him to repeat it in English.
Here are few food supply, but also very expensive, we only could afford to eat noodles 10 money, then what makes us miss the food in Lhasa.
Back to the room, only to find room enough to be really broken, a few bricks a few pieces of wooden planks placed on top even if a bed, and may be due to the relationship between snow, quilts feel Chao Chao's. It does not matter what we do, big brother Pao Wan began to spring seems to altitude sickness, and Shanshan, she kept her downstairs to his eldest brother to go to live in a beautiful log cabin hotel, leaving behind our four had each other to live in dilapidated room.
April 17 snow early in the morning we all woke up, the outside was also inundated with snow, suddenly found sleeping outside on a few Tibetans. I am very surprised, they are not cold? Could we put them into the room asleep, but they still use simple smile to meet this one morning and guests from afar.
We attend to eat breakfast, pull Gesang, and Lydia, left, the snow is finished, the landscape have undergone great changes, we see only a silver in the world, with snowflakes flying in the sky, but we do not have time to enjoy all of this, the cold wind blowing straight we tremble, wanted to run a little warm up, but we have not yet embarked on the car yesterday, put half of the rapid pace of asthma has repeatedly reminded me that there is a plateau.
Saw the cat out carry around a bottle of yogurt, I came to ask: "Do you want to drink milk?"
"Fee, then are out of view."
"Stay will see burial, do not like a newborn child and Tunai呀."
My words clearly play a role, cat eyes will be looking at, I wonder, could be 10 seconds later, the cunning cat, and not according to what I expected, as the milk given to me, but back into the package, it is also for me laugh To: "Thank you for reminding me, then after the drink."
When we walked next to a car, Lydia, told us: "The weather is too cold, cars should be warm in order to open."
We are all surprised to stare Gesang: "Yesterday is not to say to walk 20 minutes to do? Drive a car why?"
Gesang a very leisurely pace, said: "the walk is 20 minutes on that, but first drove back to yesterday's Crossroads, and then going forward to the satin Temple began to walk ah, yesterday you did not tell you it?"
We are all too lazy and Kelsang anger discussion, each kicked Gesang foot, climbed the car right Lydia said decisively: "car!"
Car all the way forward, and now days have been great light, Gesang is also the one hand laugh: "Never mind, it does not matter, catch upwith." Cars in the snow can be run 40 minutes, that I first saw as if floating in mid-air on a straight Gong Temple.
Tibetans are in the eyes of satin Temple has an unusual position, because it is not only Tibetan Buddhism, red, white, flower, yellow, one of the four schools - White to teach the main temple, but also because of its known "dacha" in the famous snow-capped Tian Zangtai. Sakyamuni once said that the year predicted that there will be a satin Purdue in the Tian Zangtai beings. Now, straight Gong Daqia Tianzang Tai Diamond Block, Sri Lanka and India, White Tianzang Tai, Tibet, Samye Monastery Green Park, collectively known as the world's three Tianzang Tai Tian Zangtai.
In addition, there is an over wood Tianzang Tai Tibet has its own characteristics, such as the source of the Nu River in northern Tibet County, because in the skull over wooden burial of those walls will be piled skeletons, unlike elsewhere, all of the bodies to be a genius l considered satisfactory.
Lama temple legend of satin can be when teaching something called the "Kundalini will" exercise approach to "lay on the snow not feel cold," the highest level. I have seen on the National Geographic Magazine, lamas who just threw a 1 Ga yarn, lay under the night in the ice and snow, while in the next to wear warm clothing in the United States advanced photographers, while also Bianhan Kaohuo cold. In the practice room, naked monks were also put on the Buddhist monk's robe soaked yarn, one would see water vapor rising from the yarn from a Buddhist monk's robe, until the Buddhist monk's robe yarn dried in the presence of U.S. scholars repeatedly amazed but could not explain. Lama said that there are even more powerful, and a monk sitting in the Basilica of Fa-gong, even under the snow outside, the roof will not have a snowflake, as have been made into a water power to the ground, and a pity that such a skill is to reaches is rare. Every year of the monkey at the "throw wow" climax of the ceremony by the heads of believers attain the monk covered with a thin paper, and then chant, expiratory man's soul from the Tian Linggai the Department sent directly to the fontanel "heaven" .
If there is no Gesang lead the way, we could not find that hidden mountain bend, and clouds from our feet and off spinner, let us like clouds feeling.
After 10 minutes, finally reached the satin Temple, we have the car on the accordance with the instructions Gesang, in the temple in front of the cul-de satin flew forward, but also refused to take a high altitude would respond. Path on the cliff in the mountains, from where I looked, one on both sides of a valley of snow-capped mountains stand, goshawk swept from the sky, clouds like water in the temple next to the waist through the mountains, the sun had just risen from the valley puncture at the end of clouds, lavished on the earth, there is a small village in the valley down below, was covered with snow from the mountains of them are listed as a hair with a small silver snow. Can no longer hold back the rising sun, snow-capped mountains, the sun like a golden river of mercury-like diarrhea in the rapid flow through the valley, the entire valley has been dyed a golden Shashi.
Along the way I understand from the Sichuan-Tibet line, the snow-capped mountains have seen many, if the world really heaven, it is here any more. I finally really beautiful from a dream like to wake up, take the camera on the shoot, but my fingers have been frozen can not be pressing the shutter. Gesang ran over, drive up the mountain quickly urged me that I reluctantly resumed.
In the plateau mountain climbing can be divided soon arrive at each of the physical, Gesang, and Lydia, in front of the trot, but also laughing to tell us to hurry. We four have been unable to speak, stepping on the snow emergency to bow their heads upward climb, with an average follow five steps necessary to stop and breathe for a gas, Shanshan to take care of a belated reaction to the altitude of the eldest brother, has been far behind.
Fifteen minutes later, I suddenly saw a vulture population Diao had a thing, a rapid glide from the side. Know this too late, too late to regret, to fight the last breath, Ji Chong mountains, along the way to see a lot of competition for the vulture in the snow.
Five minutes later, he embarked on Tianzang Chang, Gesang repeatedly reminded that we must not take photographs burial. Here is the Peak, the right side is a hill, a section of the wind horse flag surrounded by a large slopes, the left flat, with bars and enclose a flat the size of four basketball courts, that is, Tianzang Chang, and then followed by a white tower, is a wisp of smoke rising next to filled with colorful streamer. A person with high railings there is a small gate, we pushed open the door into the room immediately on the scene before his eyes shocked.
There are more than 200 around the Tianzang Tai fighting for only the vulture food, body, and Tian Zangtai Yanyanshishi way they have been covered, the body simply can not see, and we slowly approached Tianzang Tai, at a distance of less than two meters read for this in front of all, I have never seen so close to so much wildlife.
Suddenly a skull from the inside Tianzang Tai jumped out from our feet, rolling across this skull has been eating clean, hair and eyes have been eaten, and a trace of meat are not, or could be a few vulture From Tianzang Tai jumped out to compete for the skull, the skull like a rubber ball around us, like rolling over, a few vulture themselves as football players, would like to detour around us interludes, and we hastened to the venue for out They really do not want him to rub the body of bloody water.
Followed by the second and third respectively, with skull and crossbones jumped out, more vulture joined the battle group. Some vulture on the Tianzang Tai grab a chunk of meat and walked away, the following bodies slowly exposed, less than ten species, the body has been robbed a space, leaving only a skeleton above the meat is no longer any , and saw white bones, a few vulture, was able to drag a person's bones, running back and forth.
Then Tianzang Shi and his four aides to disperse the rest of the vultures took Tianzang Tai group, we see clearly the true face of the Tian Zangtai. Tianzang Tai is a rugged land paved by a pile of stones with a diameter of about six meters of round units, and ground as high only in the outermost circle of Taiwan have the stone circle, and the knee-high, the entire Tianzang Tai looks like a flat-bottomed plate .
Lying above the seven bones, were eating clean, apart from a few not the skull, the others were still a complete skeleton. The reason may be cold, we did not smell a strong corpses. Then take a look at the whole Tianzang Chang was empty, Tian Zangtai the left front has a small Baita, is burning a number of pine branches, and wormwood, the rising winds of smoke as well as our table, so that we walked up and down Good to keep in the draft, we do not want to take one of the corpses back to Lhasa. Circle of people around the Tian Zangtai seems to be the families of the deceased, but their faces do not see a trace of sadness.
Fang Tian Zangshi next to a few tools, a small house, Tianzang Shi, and several of his aides are next to the knife, the knife is not long, but it is heavy, a bit like we use the machete. Tianzang Shi and his aides go back a few Tianzang Tai, pick up the skeleton hand on the hand from a knife down, the joints cut off, and then pick up the bones of the ground, cradled in his arms, on the outside of one of the most Tianzang Tai ring stone, with stones the bones crack, and then get on the highland barley flour, throw back to the central Tian Zangtai so vulture continue to battle.
Aides Tianzang Chang Jian Hui 4 rolled in the skull, scalp knife to scrape some of the above, and barley flour. Clean skull on the stone circle on their hands picked up a large stone, a bone photographed opinions on blood dashing, I was standing relatively close to see shocking, can not think of the skull so fragile, I thought that people's skull is very hard.
There is no confirmation of brains splashed on me, to continue to see Tianzang Shi's work, skull had been broken, wrapped in the brains splash was a land of every description, Tian Zangshi continue to knock on more broken skulls, and brains and so bloody-doped on the highland barley flour, bunched up into the dough, threw Tianzang Tai. Tian Zangshi side of work, side laughing, but also with each other by the hand He holds the body to pass a cigarette, to see if they easily Tuzhuo smoke ring, as if just making a simple task.
Are scraping the skull Tianzang Shi suddenly lifted a skull a closer look, but also beckoned everyone to see the past, we look at Wai in the ranks, facing the open discussion of this skull rumble, and we did not understand the Tibetan language, so Gesang translation.
Tianzang Shi pointed skull fontanel middle position, the middle of a small pit in the Tibetan Buddhism is that life before this grasp of Buddhism, enlightenment and ascended to heaven after death, and this hole is the soul flying out of the body channel that, with this strong evidence, Tianzang Shi finds that the person has Buddha nature, it is necessary to leave the skull. His family listened to the words of Tian Zangshi am glad that this is the glory of the whole family.
Tian Zangshi to the tool room changed a saw, and we usually use no different temples around the place saw the skull in a circle, and then pry coconut shell as the same as the Tian Linggai forced open, the brains drained, with barley flour to Magan Jing Tian Linggai part, reversed has placed in the hands, like a normal bone bowl, if not personally seen, I do not see this is a person's skull.
They think that this skull has Buddha-nature able to bring good fortune, so to stay bowl made of bone collections, only the distinguished guests to only take it out to use this bone to the guests to eat bowl knead Ciba. This skull is not a common occurrence, Tian Zangshi believe that we are a nice ring and asked if we want to try a bowl of rubbing out the bones first Ciba.
We immediately looked flattered Lian Lu, windmills can be faster than hand-placed, politely refuse the Tianzang Shi's love.
From our set foot Tian Zangtai up to now less than 15 minutes, may be seven bodies have been eating clean, and even a small bone chip did not leave because the vulture after eating went to the Ravens come to clear the scene, a crow was gone again Sparrow to clean up the crevice, no wonder we were seeing here are the fertilizer fat sparrow.
In the minds of Tibetans, the more clean, more happy, indicating that this life had not done a bad thing, you can complete up to heaven after death. If there are left on the note did a bad thing in this life before, not after the death of up to heaven, so not every one Tianzang Tai Tibetan people will visit, including one of the reasons is the fear to scare away the vultures.
Burial after death, what is more environmentally friendly than the more scattered off of it, from where they attributed to where the point is not a waste of resources, but also in line with the common people the meaning of the Buddha die for alms. I see such an advanced and civilized society made no enlightened thinking.
Gesang, and Lydia, also said to come here for burial after death, the infected Chinese can we inquire about burial, unfortunately only for Tibetans, opening up, we are unable to enjoy such treatment after the death of the.
In fact, the Tibetan people have different treatment of different funeral, burial, is the most common Tibetan burial law, also known as "bird funeral."
Shuizang is low or orphaned as those used in burial method, that is, the body with a white cloth wrapped, thrown into the water the waves away. Southern Tibet area without a serpent eagles eagles burial can not be implemented, so it use more Shuizang, this might be one reason why Tibetans do not eat fish.
Burial was robbers, murderers, or those suffering from infectious diseases, pollution (such as smallpox, leprosy) use of the burial. In the Tibetan's view, the burial would have been the land to absorb the soul may not be reincarnations of heaven can not, is a punishment for the dead, they have been considered as the most dishonorable burial.
Cremation is the Sheriff's VIP or attain the monks used burial method, after the burning of the body wash, and then the ashes tossed in the Peak, or riverside.
Burial only, such as the Dalai Lama, the Panchen Lama and other special status, or the person to use. The first body washed with brine and dried, coated with precious spices, placed inside the pagoda decorated jewelry preservation, the tower be placed in front of some of the deceased to use things and valuable items. There are also the body cremated, then among the ashes deposited in the Pagoda.
The families to see the smiles, they are definitely very satisfied with the burial, but we are not very satisfied, because missed the opening, did not see the whole process. Once in Tibet is not easy to see a celestial burial is more difficult, but does not look likely to become our life full of regret, we have decided to stay in the satin Temple one more night to live to see tomorrow's burial once again, is not willing to start Gesang, Who, he can delay our time, finally had to agree with our decision.
When you walk down a small road in the rugged, everyone excitedly talking about just seen and heard, but suddenly did not speak, to stop looking at me, I did not understand what is going on, a snowball has hit my head . The following is a small lama laughed, turned to us that they launched a snow fight, and we immediately organize a counterattack, but we have a group of lamas at the top, we were ambushed, and only defeated to flee the temple to reorganize. Although a large plaza at the temple will not be attacked front and rear, but the right high platform sniper throw snowballs on the Duohui house, when we did not pay attention to Shiyou out, let's scary.
While the monks were occupied home of the benefits, may be we are not afraid to sacrifice, indomitable fighting spirit to win over the end of the war, we all laugh, can not think of these monks were so lovely, we had never played with so happy.
Into the high-profile clean-up of the house and going over the enemy, snipers have to surrender, and gave us to do butter tea to drink. Our room just next door, and after a snow stops, we and the monks were close to a lot.
We play together, but also learn from each other's language, could be big lama retreat, which was played with such a small lamas Huan, is also not the kind of serene monks. Drinking yak butter tea, Shanshan few girls still do not know where to sent for a few potatoes, warm, and fragrant, but also cut good skin. Eating sweet potatoes, I asked them: "It's so delicious potatoes, where found."
"Across a few houses is the kitchen, which people are cut potatoes, I saw the child on the stove there are a lot of baked potatoes, a few back so that everyone should taste." Shan-shan said with pride.
"Ah, you enter someone else's kitchen?" LC and I both exclaimed.
"How it?" They are a few very strange.
I explained: "In Tibet, the girls are not allowed into the temple kitchen, they did not say that you are polite to you, Do not go in next time."
"But a good potato taste, we'd like."
"I'll get it." I volunteered.
Mouth in the kitchen stairs, I went to the curtain opened, a person is cut potatoes on the ground, he had been cut next to a lot of good potatoes. He probably already know I have come generously pointing to the right side of the stove, with a smile to indicate I could randomly.
"Soil ranges concubine." I use the Tibetan language to him Tao Hsieh, pick up a pile of potatoes out of the kitchen, but I always feel that this man look familiar, as if seen where.
Back to the lamas room, we continue to eat potatoes, drinking butter tea, and the monks were chatting, but I always thought that the kitchen peeling potatoes people. I asked: "the kitchen has been the man cut potatoes in it?"
YUME eating the potatoes, while nodding his head: "Yes, we have only seen one person in very good shape, but also invited us to eat potatoes."
"How can a person cut how many potatoes, do you think is best here, who Daogong." I questioned.
Everyone laughed: "free ride someone else's potatoes, but also to find fault with others Dao Gong."
I do reminders to raise questions in mind: "The blade scraping potatoes and scraping, like human skulls and a blade, you have felt a bit like he was just one of the Tianzang Shi's assistant."
His remark immediately trigger we quack loudly, table potatoes have been eaten. We all ran the kitchen swarm confirmation, it has people to housing space, which has been one of our fans, to our departing Zaimo seen this person. After that we are certainly said to myself: "definitely not Tian Zangshi cut potatoes." Fortunately, our stomach is good, there is no low spirits.
Lama began a day's work, the kitchen is the main hall below, the left high on the roof of a row of large windows illuminate the hall bright exceptions, anti-drop a little mystery makes the hall, the door side of the wall filled with books and through classical Tibetan medicine and pharmacology, there are several hundred years of history, is the temple treasures.
From the hall on the left margin of the stairs to the building floor, here is the printing house, a few monks are on the ground by the book printed in Tibet by the book is a long strip, and the size just like we normally use the computer keyboard. They used wooden printing, put each page of the scriptures carved on a wooden counter, wooden planks number hidden inside the wooden church, the need for India and then come up with a corresponding one on the board.
They also take assembly line, the first group there are two monks, the lamas of the left group with a cloth to the wood Shangma ink, the right side of the monks left to put on a white board, with his right hand with a clean cloth regiment sweep Guo, scripture clearly printed on the paper, with the other monks left hand printed by the book away, two of them sat a division of labor, efficiency is high, we saw hands whipped, has printed a piles. The second group, like them, only be responsible for printing on the back. The third group of a lama to arrange the book printed by the order, prim. The fourth group of monks on the binding of a book, a book can make out very quickly, satin Temple is very famous printing house, where India is not only in Tibet and spread through the book, you can also spread abroad.
Printing house is opposite the Butter Sculpture Center, ghee is extracted out of yak milk or goat's milk, and high nutritional value. Yak milk or goat's milk will be slightly heated and then poured into the "Snow Dong barrel", the mixing to the surface floating on the layer of fat, the fat from loading scoop bags after cooling Serve butter. Butter can be prepared butter tea, or join the Ciba edible, but also can be made into handicrafts.
Compound butter lamas there would be no printing house of the monks, as division of labor, but each make their own handicrafts, butter group dyeing lust, making the surface a little bit as we were. Each has two basins in front of water, a basin of hot water to soften the butter, a pot of cold water so that made a good form of butter shaped craft.
Because the plateau cold butter hardens quickly, we must quickly put the needs of shape well, everyone in the way they are quickly, clasping their hands flyings shuttle, a craft to make out, most of them are Some religious figures and patterns. They also put the needs of butter into the bucket, and then out of the needs of design, as we do cake approach, lamas also let us try, really fun, but out of beautiful patterns have a certain difficulty.
By afternoon, the body has not yet sent, we began to worry, and there is no tomorrow, there will be no burial ceremony for the body. If we in the mainland, he saw white things are bypassed, but now, we have never been so eager to see the body. We are divided into several classes, in turn picked up the binoculars to observe the valley under the path, whenever a car passes will cause us unrest.
Gao De lamas who also came to comfort us: "Do not worry, someone will die each day, the bodies were there, they will first call up, as long as the body arrived before 6:00, tomorrow certainly burial rituals."
We then ask the Gesanchaiwu to keep the phone next to the monks: "Today there are no dead bodies to" as well as the words have since become one of our most skilled Tibetan.
By 5:30, and finally saw a car from afar off from, a monk from the phone confirmed that Yunshi car, we are ecstatic, watching the car come to the temple. Even before the bodies packed in a fertilizer bag, lama explained: "This is a poor little rich on the bodies wrapped with hada, if shipped from afar, would use a wooden box covered with pine shipped to."
6:00 pm have a body transported to, this indeed is a wooden box covered with pine shipped. Two bodies are flat on the hall, there are no because of the wealth during his lifetime vary. An elderly lama back hall and the dead, chanting monks led more than 10 small, small lamas in the face of the old monks sitting around half-moon, and the family sat outside the half-moon. After the family members presented by the chanting finished butter and other kinds of gifts to express his appreciation, his family was also presented a good money, gifts and money does not provide the number, it will not affect their burial treatment.
"Even if he have nothing, we will for his burial in." Lamas next explained with a smile, put it a matter of course.
Today's ceremony was part of the celestial burial is over, the body is still placed in the hall before the room we stayed away from less than 30 meters, if the evening on the toilet, then certainly will pass through the body, we do not do anything for him Ju Yi, still in the next They play with the monks, we have slowly integrated into the tranquility and serenity here, everything is not my only happiness is so casually floating around us.
April 18 Temple, in order to clear satin lessons learned yesterday, we got up bright days yet, and 7:00 on the last to Tianzang Chang. Although today there is no snow, but the wind blew cold feeling than yesterday. Snow has melted, revealing little bit of grass. The original right of the wind and horse flags surrounded by slopes is to allow vultures pending, and today, too early, there is no one person, only a dozen vultures. This is near the highest point that can completely fail to see where the vulture is flying, the only possibility is that the higher the clouds from flying down the right, like a messenger from heaven, no wonder that the vulture the Tibetan people's souls can be put on天堂.
Tianzang Chang has not yet opened a small door, we turn full circle around the Tianzang Chang, on the ground there are some vulture's feathers, black, and not very beautiful, but a great one, there are more than 40 centimeters long, It makes one see the feathers can imagine how to get this bird. Originally intended to pick up a feather as a souvenir, can be thought of these feathers, but the bodies of flesh and blood Nianman immediately abandoned.
Tianzang Chang went back before a small White Tower, the following Tianzang Tai glance, anyway, nobody around, we all want to Tianzang Tai shoot into the lens, then a strange thing happened, LC perfectly good camera just now, this suddenly, there were no response, thought YUME Tashilhunpo Tianzang Tai Shigatse too when making a sudden, there were no response, a good scary呀.
Then back to Guangzhou, LC camera was pronounced dead, cat of the film is the middle of several grid-wide black, seemed to be exposure, and the other is normal, and only YUME's a success, and we say to her camera Tashilhunpo dead once, immune to.
Yun Shi teams have the body shipped to Tianzang Chang in front of a small distance there is a lama in the road approaching, only to find that he approached the arms is also holding a small golden Buddha statues, some more than 30 centimeters. Lamas came back again after another, but the strange thing is they are separated very open, in front of the lama faster to our front, and behind only a small road in the hills. Tian Zangshi also came later, and only he has the key Tianzang Chang, Tian Zangchang When he opened the gates, and monks are the first into and then Tianzang Shi and his assistant, and finally Yunshi team.
We then entered Tianzang Chang, Tian Zangtai on the body has been put in, but still wrapped. Outside the vulture up more, about more than 200 pieces available, only a dozen bars, it seems they also have a strict hierarchy.
They started chanting monks, as well as monks took the stand on the ground war France, barrier, and vultures in the Tian Zangtai between the monks were also lit a pine wormwood, mist floating on the sky, two vulture flew into the Tianzang Chang, other vulture are the stations on the ground, the only two stops on the high bars on the wings from time to time expand the large, awe-inspiring extraordinary, I guess it was after the serpent eagle is king and the serpent eagle.
喇嘛们诵完经，天葬师走入了天葬台，用刀割开袋子，两个全裸的男尸就滚了出来，全身黑紫，口张开，很恐怖的一个样子。天葬师用铁钩把尸体拖向天葬台的中央，尸体在凹凸不平的石头上下弹跳，口部一张一合，更觉恐怖，可四肢却很柔软，全没有我想象的那么僵硬，以至于四肢随尸体的弹跳而上下翻飞。
我突然觉得我胳膊一阵的痛，回头一看，原来女孩们把她们的身体半躲在我们身后，用手抓着我们的胳膊，还死命的掐。也难怪，我们为了看得清楚，走得很近，几乎走进了天葬台。
天葬师开始切开尸体，秃鹫们开始骚动起来，外围的也飞进了天葬场。天葬师先从脚底开始割，把两片脚底都割起，但没割断，即时看见里面鲜红肌肉，血并没有流出多少。接着是小腿、大腿、手臂、脸部，全身都被天葬师割得鲜血模糊，翻出来的鲜红肌肉混着黑紫的尸身，引得秃鹫们异常骚动。可能是今天的尸体只有两具，可以分到的自然就少，以至于鹫王与鹫后拼命拍打着双翼也无法制止骚动的鹫群，鹫群已一次次向天葬台冲击，但都被喇嘛和家属挡了回去。
鹫群开始分散，呈扇形围着天葬台，那么战线就大大延长了，今天只有两户家属，以他们的人数根本就无法抵挡这么长的鹫群。我们即时加入人墙，帮他们填补了空缺，鹫群以排山倒海之势发起一轮又一轮的冲击。其实天葬师只是想把肉切得更细，方便它们叼食，可鹫群不管这么多。我真奇怪它们为何不从空中进攻，要是那样我们早败了。
站在地上我们比他高，它们可能有点怕我们，每当我们赶到跟前就退后，然后聚集又冲击。喇嘛和家属有经验，每人手里都有棍子，我们可是赤手空拳，唯有发出大声的怪叫和夸张的动作。
我们也是在打心理战，试想一下面前是几百只吃肉的野生动物，它们的爪子比我的手掌还大，强壮有力的腿部，锋利如刀的指尖，如钢锥般的弯形嘴部，杀手一样冷酷无情的双眼，无一不令我们敬畏。每当我们双方冲到跟前，如果它们不是选择退后，而是继续踏多一步，我们一定会选择退后，可能这就是所说的两军对战勇者胜吧。
血弥漫在空气中的气味越来越重，鹫群的冲击也越厉害，喇嘛那面的防守被撕开了一个口，有四五只秃鹫冲了进去，即时鹫群不再选择退后，而是集体象海浪一样向我们扑过来，我们知道守不住了，连忙让出道路，鹫群一下就把天葬台盖了起来。
天葬师就惨了，被鹫群围在中央，腿部以下根本看不见，我真担心秃鹫会把他的腿吃掉。天葬师这时唯有停下手中的工作，慢慢地把自己从鹫群中挪出来。
不到五分钟，就有头骨滚了出来，比昨天快多了。以下的就和我们昨天看到一样，只是没再出现一个骨碗。
可以看到一场完整的天葬仪式，还有兴参与其中，真是很难得的一次人身感受。
下山之后就开车回拉萨，我们住的房间还在，还有一些新旧的朋友，黄锋磊也回到了拉萨。我们和一群朋友分享着，倒是平时都有打招呼的那两个日本人装着不认识我们，还有我们贴在留言板上去阿里的召集被撕了一半，而上面并没有新得张贴，这在这里很少见，我们一直怀疑是那两个日本人干的。
直贡寺达恰天葬台门票：藏人免费，游客门票15元。
交通：直贡寺在墨竹工卡县内，在拉萨东面130公里处，没有班车到达，只有包车，我们包格桑的车用了900元。
住宿：住在德宗藏民家中8元，住直贡寺15元。
拉萨篇的所有费用:687.30元累计所有费用:2670.50元
Continued
Author: raycat
