End of a mountain is willing to turn
Preface
Simply did not seen the best,
Is also unnecessary for them to linger mind sees.
Original unfamiliar Ye Hao,
Would not be so infatuated.
- Lama
To blame blame four years ago that Ali's line, Gangrenboqi morning, only to see these at a glance, they are planted deep roots of the situation. Always remember that sunny afternoon in tha cheen, others are four pictures to go sightseeing, and himself to stay in the tent drinking sweet tea, watching groups of sheep to come and go, watching the sun begins to go short, only one thought unanswerable question, : do not want to go back.
Eventually go back, leaving a wish: Horse back of Mt. A somewhat utilitarian wish. Say that five hundred years after the transfer Kamiyama within 12 laps from the pain of hell. The Year of the Horse of the lap top lap 13 on weekdays. Think about change sooner or later anyway, and the way care about the afterlife Ye Hao, although he was not a Buddhist.
Four years away in many places, Xu countless willing, until one day shocked to have to re-take again walked the streets, if the wishes are realized. Xu happens is not extremely difficult for another kind, so the chances of achieving considerable. Prior to departure time vowed to turn Kamiyama must not make a wish to avoid when you were born, and then regret it. 53 kilometers of the road, with an average altitude of 4700 meters above the zero elevation for those of us from the people who are afraid to think.
Scared or not, or do not hesitate to set foot high mountain turn, just to end a soul inside a four-year dream Ying Rao wish.
Day
(Tha cheen to Drapp Temple, 20 km)
Dawn, the packing luggage and porters end when on the road was already twilight sky (at the time less than 8:00, Tibet dawn nights). What a night to stay snow Daomei marks, but the sky overcast with heavy clouds, the horizon is only vaguely translucent. Disturbed mind, do not know whether to see Kamiyama.
Since tha cheen (Darchen, 4560 m), proceed westward turn clockwise direction is Buddhist mountain, while the counter-clockwise while the east is the mountain of transfer of benzene believers. Road flat, the South Plains and the holy lakes across the Baga Ghost Lake, Zhu Feng lined up in the Himalayas, the western section, from east to west, followed by Gurla Peak (Gurla Mandata, 7728 m), Nepal Api Zhu Feng and India's Kamet (7756 m) peaks. Dawn slowly Xuefeng dyed pink.
Ming dynasty, when the sky to the southwest corner office Mani Dui (4730M), where mountains should be transferred for the first time to see God Shannan wall (sapphire or lapis lazuli wall) in place, but regrettably only Nongyun. Zheng Zheng, the constant stream of pilgrims from a passing quietly with the two dogs in the crowd, the eye does not see a squat stone near the hare.
Hill Road, turn north after the pull-down to the song (Lha Chu) Valley, far greeted the famous tower is the Okanagan Park Qi flagpoles (Tarboche Flagpole), April 15 Tibetan calendar every year (May 26 this year is the Gregorian calendar days) Sagadawa Festival (Saga Dawa), the old flag would be replaced by new. When the eight yak hair rope erected new flagpoles, the cheering section marked yet another turn mountains began. At that time the river's flow is not only the beginning of melting of ice and snow still dress like clouds of pilgrims.
Let's wait until the park came flagpole near the tower legs pagoda (Chorten Kangnyi) is already a matter of an hour later. Clouds disperse, Kamiyama reveal its Kokonoe million words that has the South wall cells, such as the Olive huge crystal, facing the western slopes of the Chu Library Temple (Chuku), Temple of pilgrims under the steep slopes, such as ants.
Road on the right is full of Mani Dui Kamiyama, under the slope leading to dull red rock platform. Knew that this was set to 84 monks Diamond (84 Mahasiddhas) Tianzang Tai. Mountain temples were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution, has not been fully restored, the number of lamas natural pitiful, Tian Zangtai think there is little opportunity to contribute to the soul away. In addition to the wall Tianzang Tai Mani wall, is a small fast scattered clothes and hair flat, crow Mensheng sing, a huge black wings stirred the dust on the rock. Looked up hope Kamiyama, pale clouds Feidu hill in chaos. Sunlight glare is actually a bit cold. But here, away from Kamiyama - paradise - the nearest place ah!
People tired of the long valley road, but fortunately it Kamiyama emerged in the West wall (ruby wall). Dark brown mountainside of rock stairs, near the top at the crystal-white glaciers and the Peak of new snow, as well as clouds come and go, so a simple meal into a feast for lunch. How many people dream of but can not see the beauty that we can actually look at Apple chewing leisurely manner.
Afternoon, the road winds over a large large Suidan Po, by gradually difficult to walk up the slope occasionally see a few holes, presumably golden marmot home, really want to knock on doors to tell it it is spring, and the wake the sun has come. However, their gas permeability, but also began to come to, where to go strong and naughty?
Then slope slope slope with slope, strength in the little exhausted. I do not know when, overcast days down, wind up. An endless stream of pilgrims had only a few sparse. Our porters have not disappeared early. There were numerous up under the snow. Visibility is reduced to tens of meters. Be able to see only behind fellow Dzodzo and not far from the front of the Tibetan old. Conjecture porters went Drapp Temple (Dira-puk), but do not see that the shadow of the temple. Our tents and sleeping bags are porters available there. Asked in front of the Tibetan elderly, the language barrier, only know at the front of the Temple, but I do not know how far in front. More and more big wind, and snow hit your face Sheng Teng Chu, but fortunately the wind is blowing from behind, down jacket is also the domestic block. Dzodzo quietly behind the rhythm to go with me. See walk, they Shenguo hands and pulled, are aware that anyone else follow the rhythm of the most tiring, dragging people away even more tired. He himself, like the fast exhaustion. Want to have friends is in such that, who needs a flash, felt a lot of little snow, tears quietly drop.
When that old Tibetan means to us on the hillside opposite the temple Delap (Dira-puk) and leave only when he realized that snow has been accompanied us to go, he himself would also like to drive longer distances. In addition to thank you can I say? In the face of humanity's great speech is a blank.
Snow stopped, looking for a shortcut over a frozen river, Teramae the final slope of rocks tens of meters away, as always could not finish. Finally Pujin smoky small, dirty temple got the feeling into the paradise. First-come, people who ate a great deal has been hailed bowl. Pressure of cross-gas to see that this the only room that only five of the ground floor, we were asked to sleep nine. Mathematics has always been Mo Xuehao So far, I do not know how to nine individuals in this slap in the face of the ground flat. Helpless request lamasery the roof platform, bar tents, a monk down gladly agreed.
Penetrate into the tent is already 21 o'clock, the deepening twilight, Lama, later began to beat France drum lessons, snow there came up and hit the tents together on the Xixi Susu's just the rhythm of the drum. In the cold gaze Kamiyama Shen Ru Mengxiang us.
Second day
(Delap Temple Guo Zhuo Mala, such as vomit pass to the S & P Temple, 20 km)
Was tapping sound awakened. Small tent had been buried in snow half of it urges, Inner tent also knot the ice. Lama well-intentioned help snow. Drilled tent sees at a glance that the ubiquitous Kamiyama. That we were camping in the north wall facing the holy mountains. Semi-round bright moon hanging in the top of the pyramid-like peaks, between heaven and earth just blindly the crystal clear. Are puffing closed tent, heard someone exclaim, back to the first ray of sunlight Masami Kamiyama on. Fade into the golden mountain, crushing clouds are flying, such as the golden flame peak, a veritable gold wall.
Temple downhill out of the bridge Under the bridge there is no running water, snow covers the river ice-blue light green light. But perhaps just a warm night, the ice will melt into a vein a clean Benru Indus Valley, the ultimate import of the Indian Ocean waves. Be traced back two or three days along the river is the source of the Indus.
End Bridge is a large section too slow pathway straight Dolma song valley, 5000 meters above sea level began going to the above, apart from asthma do not know this is just the beginning lead to Zhuoma La Pass.
The most difficult is that three consecutive steep slopes, the Buddha called "escape three passers-by," slope, three passers-by as hell beasts, and hungry ghosts. Hell slope Shiva-tsal (5330 meters) on a haunted hat full of small rubble, where pilgrims leave clothes, hair bundles and a few drops of blood. Discard the symbol of death or escape from hell.
Really can not remember how he was to climb up or escape it, "escape the three passers-by," slope, only to remember all the attention is focused on a few right foot of the steps, the first 100, after 50, then after 25, the last 15 steps. To the required number of steps will be hard to stop breathing, such as the newly hooked fish. Ankle-deep snow along the way too, trance is transferred between the old and confuse climbing mountains or in the snow-capped mountains.
It's that light-headed until the vast expanse of whiteness the snow appeared on a color - streamer, 5630 meters above sea level of the Zhuoma La Pass (Drolma-la) is up. Pilgrims in the air and throw color classics, with Tibetan chanting long live. Shadow wolf eyes seem to have skimmed, it is often billed as a streamer in the Zhuoma La Stone (Drolam Do) on the fly. However, I prefer to believe that legend: White Tara Drolma to help the wolf incarnation of the pilgrims on board managed to escape three passers-by slope, with the ultimate escape from the pain of hell.
Decreased drastically from the way down the mountain pass 400 meters above sea level, step on a very slippery snow really really tired of wrestling, wrestling, just sit on the floor, slide down. Look next to the large snow slope, straight skis come with no regret.
5:00 sharp, saw two tents, like other people and porters will be drinking tea To her surprise, they flutter empty. Look at the still early days, approaching where they would not want to go, is flat in front of Ram song g (Lham Chukhir) valley, a good way to go, catch up with the porters to remove the tent camping. Most recent accommodation is 10 kilometers away, such as spit & P Temple (Zutul-puk). Calculations camp 56 kilometers away the better. I do not know at this time has already been passed, such as vomit & P Temple is the way to go tha cheen. The porters also prepared to stay in the Temple, such as vomiting Pu. Wait aware of this point, near dusk, so ask for directions crazy, crazy hurry, and even do a good job Night Flight tha cheen preparation. Impression at that time the situation is, no matter how fast to go and take the long, people always tell us that there is a two-hour road leads to the Temple, such as vomiting Pu.
Wilderness wind, roar like Lang Hao, fortunately not a real wolf nor snow, I do not know how many turn the corner, are afraid of accidentally walked tha cheen, the legendary, such as spit & Poor's Temple there finally appeared in front of hostel . Just days before full dark, and saw "That wooden wrong" and that pieces of red and yellow of the Jackets, as well as porters Qieqie of laughter.
Qu g Valley Ram camp was in the end, such as vomiting Pu Temple guest house instead. After dinner, back into the house to sleep, locked the door and found no lock to lock, the lock out is tied to the wire on the block sheep scapula, not eating meat net.
Day three
(Such as the spit & P to tha cheen Temple, 13 km)
Not really a sleep 8:00 wake up, porters impatient, did not open the lock on a door. Get up, the sun eyeful. Think of a meager 13 kilometers Ping Road, could not help but lazy.
Qu valley along the cases (Dzong Chu) away, such as walking as leisure, are due to the flat terrain. Occasionally, a deep river, forming canyons, multicolored streamer fly across the two sides. But this landscape is flat in our eyes. Who let the first two days it is so wonderful!
Mountains blocked the Dongbi Kamiyama (crystal wall), on the road long head of those who knock a lot more than the previous two days, allegedly kowtowing Mt spend two to three weeks time to switch to finished lap.
Tibetans are devout, transfer Kamiyama a turn that is three times to get up as early as 4:30, 20 o'clock on the back. Rest day, and then started the second lap. Chronological turn over 13 laps to be eligible to switch to switch within 38 kilometers of the Road. Looking back on average 15, six hours to turn a lap. Would like to own this life is not the skills. Gang Ren Bo Qi Mountain turn the fastest recorded by the Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner to create, and twelve hours. However, the world's first one, but he climbed the peak over 8000 meters of all people, not my other mortals comparable.
Saw Gurla peaks is coming out of the place, from here to tha cheen is only 23 kilometers. Roadside wall stretching is not Mani section guided to tha cheen way. Does not refer to worth mentioning, that a white tents and bark has long been told it home: the beginning and end of Mt - tha cheen, arrived.
End
Just before entering tha cheen moment, look back antecedents, actually can not believe that the three-day pilgrimage to end. Not tell was a tragedy or loss. A brewing for a long time so the desire to achieve it? So easily? Has completely forgotten the hardships the previous two days. Spell-binding between the front of Kamiyama verbose: "finally turn over, five hundred years will not go to hell, just bought a five hundred years of insurance. Five hundred years later Well, again transferred Mountain" God, but also wish the. Hastily covered his mouth at the same time, a glimpse of the Dzodzo smile.
"After the next five centuries this people will turn up a mountain with me!" Determined to drag a person into the water.
"Promise me, after five hundred years, whether you are a man is a woman, whether a cat is a dog to be accompanying me to switch to mountain."
Can not agree to do? This person has long been for the gang head over heels in the Birch-jen!
Kamiyama Introduction
Gangrenboqi peak (Kangrinpoche), in Tibetan means snow (Kang) Baby (Rinpoche), is the main peak Gangdese Mountains, elevation 6714 meters, located at longitude 81.3 degrees north latitude and 31 degrees, the Tibet Autonomous Region Burang County.
Gangrenboqi Mineyama strange-shaped elegant. Mountainside is a large reddish rock platform edges canines shape, pyramid-shaped top of the hill the snow, awe-inspiring Wanfeng above photo is breathtaking. A very symmetrical distribution of the walls to be known as sapphire wall (south wall, a wall, said of lapis lazuli), ruby wall (west wall), gold wall (North wall), and crystal wall known. Perhaps it is because of religious reasons, although only the more than 6000 meters above sea level, it has never set foot on the peak of human footprints.
From the Gangrenboqi and around Manasarovar (Maphan-yum-tso or Mnansarovar) origin of the four well-known rivers. It is these rivers have brought up four river basin vast land people, but also nurtured local splendid ancient culture and eventually converge to a common destination - the Indian Ocean. Originated in the north Gangrenboqi Shiquanhe (Seng-ge Kambab) as the Indus (Indus) upstream; originated Gangrenboqi, Manasarovar west of Sutlej (Langchan Kambab) inflows in India become Sutlej (Sutlej); originated in Manasarovar east Gangrenboqi horse before the Sutlej (Tamchog Kambab) is the Brahmaputra (Yarlung Tsangpo) source; in to enter India became Brahma Putra River (Brahmaputra), by Bangladesh in the Ganges (Ganges) phase sinks; originated Manasarovar south, the Himalayas on the Kongquehe (Mmabja Kambab), have become the Ganges (Ganges) river tributaries of Gege La (Karnali ) upstream Entering India through Nepal.
According to ancient Sanskrit literature, more than 4000 years ago Gangrenboqi Kamiyama had established its position. Subsequent years, Gangrenboqi Kamiyama simultaneously Tibetan Buddhism, Hinduism, Tibetan native religion, Bon, as well as Jainism identified as their respective holy places and religious center of the world. Nazuo peaks in Asia, there is no more sacred than its more be admired.
Buddhism says Gangrenboqi of Sumeru (Samvara), is a small center of the world 1000. According to Buddhist sutras, Gang Ren Bo pk abdominal Sakya Muni Buddha's preaching is a place where there are magnificent, and often turned to by the Church of Falun. "Tripitaka - kosa Tuo" on Gangrenboqi appearance has a very detailed description.
Hindu, said Kang Bo Ren Qi as "Kailas (Mt. Kailash)" means "such as Mai (Mt. Meru) as the mysterious Shaw." Ru-shan is India's doctrine center of the world. Also known as a "Shiva's Palace (Domain of Shiva)", the mountains inhabited by the god of destruction Shiva (Shiva) and his wife Uma (Parvati). Ganga from Shiva's head shed.
Jainism says Gangrenboqi as "Achta po-tat," or "the highest mountains." Their intention to avoid the Himalayas to the Holy Land to determine this, allegedly because the founder of Jainism Ruisihaba that brake is Gangrenboqi relief.
Bon said Gangrenboqi Kokonoe million words for mountain (Nine Storey Swastika Mountain). To teach in the 360 gods are in the mountains, its founder Duiba Xin Rao (Shenrab) descended from the sky fell Gangrenboqi Yamashita. Through his years of penance in the cave gained supernatural power and communication sector, the capacity of god-man 2, the teaching of the prophets and therefore have their own saints.
For thousands of years pilgrims from around the world of trials and hardships, long-distance journey, came to worship their gods, look around Gangrenboqi Mt grave sins to wash away the pain in order to escape hell. Turn Kamiyama lap, just one day fast and slow will have to three days. According to Tibetan Buddhism, Mt 13 laps, five hundred years from hell, Mt 108 laps, site to heaven. Tibetan Year of the Horse Mt circle circle is equivalent to 13 ordinary years. Legend of the most famous practitioner of Tibet Milarepa had Gangrenboqi a battle of wits against the heretics believers satisfied if Ben King, the year is the Tibetan Year of the Horse. Another said that because of the Buddha Sakyamuni was born in Year of the Horse.
How to enter Ali
As the world's most beautiful, deserted most scarce (population density of one person per 4.5 square kilometers) in one of the places Ali in a number of years ago was almost an isolated world. Although in recent years, the situation has improved, but the access to Ali is still not an easy task. Because of poor road conditions, changing climate and lack of public transport, most visitors take the form of access with the Mission and chartered Ali.
1. With the tour: food and shelter and time is guaranteed. The disadvantage is that higher costs can not choose a playmate, his itinerary lack of freedom.
Tibet Tourism Bureau in Shanghai Liaison Office: Tel :021-63230761, Fax :021-63231016
Tibet's Ali Kamiyama International Travel: Phone: 08,916,322,209, Fax :0891-6362233
www.xiangxiong.com
2. His chartered: If you are traveling companion cost-sharing would save a lot of money compared with the group and can be free to choose trip. The disadvantage is that everything to take care of themselves, if the car has broken down even more trouble.
Chartered in Lhasa, the choice of models, whether from the driver of prices is easier than Shigatse. Toyota cars are mainly two kinds of 62 and 4500, which is slightly more expensive. When chartered condition, and the driver must pay attention to driving skills and experience in and out of Ali, the driver can speak Mandarin better to Tibetans in Tibet foreign travel companies and is a member. If possible, preferably two or more cars travel together.
Looking for companions, can go to Asia hotels, eight corridors science, snow-covered hotel, travelers bar, etc. The bulletin board to see posted, Posted.
Recommended Tibetan drivers: Tashi Tsering: 013,989,009,910
Bazan: 013,908,996,395
3. Seated bus: There is no companion save money in case of choice. The disadvantage is that the road hard, the time variable and the fare is no less than chartered save a lot.
Tibet At present, only a private passenger transport company - the Tibetan antelope Travel Limited, Ali - Ali's sleeper cars have to go. The following three lines were opened up. However, if the need to ride from the Sanchi Shiquanhe to other vehicles or chartered.
Northern Line: Lhasa via Cuoqin, change is to Shiquanhe, full 1760 kilometers, every two or three days on the grid,
South Line: Lhasa take State Road 218 through the Zhongba, Bhagavan (here is only 22 kilometers away from tha cheen) to Shiquanhe, full 1646 kilometers, in order to seasonal opening.
Ali - Xinjiang Yecheng Line: Shiquanhe by day territories, sector Alexander Osaka to Xinjiang Yecheng.
Ali, Tibet, Tibetan antelope Travel Co., Ltd.: Thermal Road, Lhasa, Tibet's mother, No. 37, the right side of Ali office.
Tel :0891-6888929, Mob: 13,618,909,388
4. Take the goods or postal cars: the most cost-and time is not easy but it is hard to master.
Go to Lhasa mother hot Ali Road, near the offices of 37 or car. Ali trucks usually go into the Northern line.
And out of Ali's line
Ali and out of a total of three routes:
1. Yecheng from Xinjiang (Xinjiang-Tibet line 0 km) into: Kashgar - Yecheng - mazar Osaka - Spring Gully - Alexander sector Osaka - DORMA ditch - Japanese soil - Shiquanhe - moincer - tha cheen. Length of 1671 kilometers. One spring ditch (ditch the dead) the average elevation of over 5000 meters.
2. Since the Lhasa entry: is divided into north and south line.
South Line: Lhasa - Shigatse - Lazi - Saga - Zhongba - Baga - tha cheen. Length of 1338 kilometers. Traveling in the Himalayas and Gangdise Mountains between the scenery along the way are beautiful.
Northern Line: Lhasa - Shigatse - Lazi - Cuoqin - Gerze - ge'gyai - Shiquanhe. Length of 1760 kilometers. Can be seen along the Tibetan antelope, Tibetan wild ass and other wildlife.
3. The Humla in Nepal since the Champlain border into Nepal: At present, the team only allowed access. Personal access to the visa must inject Mingpu Lan port access.
Mountain sickness
In theory, rising to 3,000 meters above sea level, the people will appear altitude sickness (Acute Mountain Sickness referred to as AMS). Mainly manifested as headache, vomiting, shortness of breath, chest tightness, abdominal distention, loss of appetite and sleep well. Symptoms last more than 24 hours after the plateau appear, disappear within a few days (or partial loss), reaction severity varies. To adapt to the plateau as soon as possible and should note the following few:
1. On the plateau before the strengthening exercises. If you have any respiratory problems, including colds, heal later on the plateau. If you suffer from other diseases to seek medical advice on the suitability of the plateau.
2. On the plateau should be two to three days after the adaptation period, speech and action should be slow, eat eat eat Bacheng.
3. For every 1000 meters up to two to three nights stay in order to adapt to the new altitude of the body.
4. To ensure sleep, bedtime can be taken adduct 100-ning or stability to help relieve headaches, sleep as soon as possible. If possible, try to sleep at night at low altitudes.
5. More water, drink tea with ginseng good effect.
6. Mountain climbing or hiking, do not trying to flaunt, over-confident of their own physical fitness.
7. Thin but high-calorie diet. Low blood sugar, drink the blood sugar glucose powder can be added quickly.
8. Severe altitude sickness symptoms such as breath at rest, severe headache, loss of consciousness, a dry cough, or accompanied by pink sputum (pulmonary edema symptoms), because down to lower elevations immediately and seek medical treatment. Do not their teeth, or there will be life-threatening.
Author: quail
