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April 25 clear Saga - Zhongba (tie East) - Pago sheep (Pa Yang District) (145-107 km) total 5573 kilometers Saga Saga near a temple, but its reputation and size are prohibited and the Sakya The Sakya compared to our car broke two steel plates, do not want to open too fast, only breakfast Sheung.
7:30 left the saga, the dark blue sky hanging a moon, the sky of the stars of the sky covered with and surrounded by a quiet, even common dogs usually do not know where to go hiding, and we do not is willing to break the calm of the moment, quietly looked up at the night sky. Originally intended so straight at the junction to see the sun rising from the horizon, but the temperature is cold, and the roadside is full of thin ice knot, we had to give up the enjoyment of this moment, light step to embark on the car.
Car cover also end up with a layer of thin ice, the engine still hot, can only be slowly sliding on the road, in addition to a slight sound of the engine, the four or so of peace, we shall proceed quietly left the saga.
As the sun rises, our car began to speed, the distance two herders in the grazing, did not expect so early it was grazing. Approached only to see, a man and a woman, two young people, holding her little lamb is very cute, followed by one of their big flock, in the dawn light shining under the rolling grasslands, like drifting clouds the sky.
We called immediately takes out his camera captured the beauty of Big Brother cameras has taken place at this moment of altitude sickness, in fact, Big Brother cameras are not covered, on high-end million automatic machines, but had just won the car can not adapt to the outside cold temperatures, will have to wait a few minutes to adapt to it. I and LC using a full manual, blunt, shoot non-stop, which is motivated by hand I love one of the reasons, although the manual focusing a bit slower, but it is a good way to practice fast chips, the most important thing is that it a time when you most need it will not abandon you.
Good-bye to them, we move forward in the grasslands Mercedes-Benz, although it is this season grass is yellow, or you can hit one or two nomadic Tibetans, they are warm and we waved, but they are on the Tibetan mastiff No how enthusiastic.
We have undergone a Tibetan nomad tent, the owner did not know where to go in, leaving only two Tibetan mastiffs guarding the sheep. 2 Tibetan mastiff far to see we have come roaring gallop, and we dare to get off the car to move forward to open, two Tibetan mastiff on a front and rear ground accompanied by our cars running up and away from our car only 2-3 meters.
These two Tibetan Mastiff two meters long, almost shoulder high m, the first big mouth wide, sturdy body, Bianti black hair, sharp eyes, sharp toe forelimbs, hind toe 4 hooks benefits, extremely sharp canines. Thick limbs, although we drove the car to 60 kilometers can not get rid of them, we can not keep them to scare off Ming Hao, which roared while chasing us, eyes are staring at us, until they are only a few hundred meters away stop, just as we left their homeland to expel the same. They stopped at that, and did not leave, eyes stare at us until we have to go very far before returning to the flock of sheep were. I think: If we stop, they will continue to recover to.
It is said that Tibetan Mastiff power as big as a tiger, leopard, or enough to make a three wolf defeated, fierce fighting Jin, making dogs to win God's reputation, but also the world's only dare to fight with the wild beasts of the dogs. Today, a view, the well-known than to meet the flying car we were sitting in chilling, and forgot to put God heroic dog flying photographed, usually seen on television being deported Tibetan mastiff personal experience is quite different, Mastiff abide by the duty to protect the sheep, and the Tibetan people to tide over difficulties with the long-term enjoyment and establish deep sincere feelings can be described as real non-verbal, we can see Tibetan mastiff Tibetan family status.
11:00 We have reached the bar Zhongba Eastern District, Zhongba Tibetan means "land of Buffalo." Zhabdun little, but on either side of the road there are several Tibetan house, do not look very plain appearance, which was full of Tibetan decorated home features.
We are the home of the Tibetan Aunt heartily enjoy the fragrant buttered tea, Aunt warm hospitality extended to visitors from afar, let us feel the warmth of home. Despite the poor condition and Aunt still laughing, tasting with our hands and buttered tea, and no less than to the old home, a "tea cakes Ma Day view more (Tibetan means" good taste of the butter tea ")." On the Aunt can put the funny laugh.
11:45 left Zhongba, all the way to work towards paryang area. Zhongba means land of buffalo, but buffalo do not see, they saw a group of wild ass. We would like as close as possible to them, see us close to a wild ass, real-time running up and Siti wind, run extraordinarily fast.
"Lydia, you can keep up with them?" We're not trying to drive away wild ass, just want it closer.
Lydia is also full of enthusiasm, and open high-powered, car flew up in the grasslands, cars of ups and downs thrown us have met the roof, we have completely re-cut steel plate at any time regardless of the car, excited to Lydia, to accelerate. But the wild ass faster gain on our cars less than one would disappear behind a hill.
Did not expect in such a high altitude wild ass can run faster than cars, they are really strong plateau.
I asked Gesang: "ass in the Ali you can often see it?"
"While there are some wild ass, but not necessarily visible."
Shan-shan and his brother were asked: "That the Tibetan antelope have it?"
Gesang said: "The Tibetan antelope, and even fewer, it is difficult it can be seen, depending on your luck, and they saw the people will run away far, is more terrifying than the wild ass."
LC said: "If no one like poaching, and we can appreciate that this beast of the plateau Jane."
Although we can not close watch wild ass, but they are worried about being the contrary, is a good thing, they can be allowed as far as possible away from poachers who want a piece of land on which organisms can be to survive, they could live in this life of more than 5000 meters above sea level restricted to survive It is the strongest on Earth, how much hope that people can continue to see them in the beauty of the grasslands Mercedes-Benz.
Can often be seen on the road during the rainy season last year destroyed the road, and some way removed from the whole of the original position, imagine the scene at that time raging floods. Gesang pointing to the road washed away, said: "the rainy season, a very frightening, Ali will go to road closures, not many people dare to run."
Some pit can also be embedded into the whole cars, but fortunately no water pit. Gesang said: "If I do not know the depth of the rainy season to open the past, the vehicle had no people about." We often have to leave the car had the original pit road to avoid them.
Today because of an early start, 3:30 went to a par of sheep. We checked into the Asia hotels, local Tibetans open the entrance to a yak head, because it was in Asia in Tibetan yak mean.
Paryang small area, a vast desert built just a few yards over the western United States have seen the movie but also desert, but here, people are living very happy, you can from their faces feel . There is also a small temple, an old mother was devoutly turn around the temple, as if there is no thing can make her distraction.
There is a Sichuanese to open a small restaurant, the price is very expensive but reasonable, and vegetables from far away places and are becoming dry.
Dinner, we can use their own supplies, but the fruits are exhausted, he saw a rotten fruit and began to drool, only higher price on some fruit.
Asia hotel's courtyard large, open-air toilet allows you to conveniently side while watching the white clouds drifting across the blue sky, the four lonely and no one does not prevent you improvise cited throat singing, of course, forgot to bring toilet paper again is another matter.
There is also a courtyard well, and we hastened to fetch water yourself, but we did not since leaving Shigatse has been bathed, but not to break the 10 days did not bathe in the Sichuan-Tibet road record.
Deep wells, can be very strenuous to play up the water, cold water, cold, and we are anxious, the owner brought a bucket of cow dung as a signal we use cow dung to light fires.
Have long heard that cow dung can be burnt, but had never tried, brother to cow dung ignition, LC fan the fire in the following, we busy divvying up the cow dung fire to health.
"Haha, I am also concerned about cow dung will burn up and smell it, can not think of that does not stink." LC side of the practice to do with just toggle cattle feces stick to the side of the laments.
I then said: "not only did not smell the fragrance of grass do breakout, you hear this."
While we have heard repeatedly while agrees: "Yes, Yes, there are grass fragrance." The more brother to see the flame burning more Wong said: "This is still stir cow dung, firewood is nothing worse than that."
"Do not appreciate the burning cow dung Guzhe, boil water呀." Shanshan are impatient, because her hair is the longest, waiting for the water shampoo. Although there are a large number of wells and dung everywhere, but not sufficient conditions for a bath, only wash their hair in what.
We also began to engage in feces stick with the pick into the stove in the cow dung, and later directly into the clutch to go on a cow dung, in fact, is nothing rotten cow dung, or dirty, sun-dried cow dung as a large coal cake, but is much cleaner than the briquette, handling flac will not leave sediment, cow dung There are also some not digest grass, so there is little Kusaka. There are a large number of sheep manure, such as black bean size, is used to stir the fastest cited, and grabbed the Cuangao down flames. The cow dung, sheep manure in the yard there are a lot, use the self-help, completely natural metabolites, and does not waste, really green.
Wash your head and feel really comfortable Yeah, shampoo is basically a very simple lifestyle, but in Ali, it becomes a luxury that we enjoy.
Gesang came to ask: "If you want do not want to eat rice, curry, yak meat shop owners copied the supply of rice, 10 per dish."
"There rice, of course, good." Ciba, after all, not used to, hotels also too expensive, supplies are some quick pasta and biscuits, as early as tired to eat.
Owner of the house is very beautiful, very ornate furniture, a variety of Tibetan, unlike ordinary Tibetans, the reason may be opened hotel bar, more affluent.
"You come to see." Shanshan on the wall of what was found.
We take a look at the past, the original tracing is a revelation, this is a Japanese travel alone to Ali, after evaporated, and over the past year were no longer any of his messages.
However, we have seen that the third tracing revelation, and Japan, France, the United States all here. "Ali really was so dangerous it?" We asked Gesang.
Gesang said: "The poor living conditions here, but also no man's land, but the one in distress is unable to help, people will simply disappear in the wilderness is not surprising that no one will find. So we always take the familiar Road, any action adventure and not sure where all can be fatal, but there will never be the rescue personnel, in order to survive, must themselves out of the woods, but the average altitude above 4,500 meters in Ngari easier said than done, if the event does not on the nomadic Tibetans, will die. "
The owner opened the pressure cooker, rice smell of the aroma comes, I never think that rice is so fragrant, and add curry yak meat shop owners do, we gobble up, although the curry taste of yak meat and a little curry are unable to do anything, the but we put all the curry, yak meat, rice swept away.
Owner laughed at us, rumble speaking the Tibetan language, Lydia, translation: "The first time Ali had never seen no one point of altitude sickness there are so many good appetite."
We laugh that: "If there is, but also to eat." Who knows how long it takes to eat such good rice, the next stop is totally unpredictable, I travel in Tibet, Ali developed a habit, there are too hard to eat when to eat, to not have food and can not eat and become more in line with the field conditions for survival. Back to the mainland and to eat with friends at the time of their startled, my big appetite three times, then slowly resumed.
Owner, showed the pressure cooker we see as a signal to have been eaten, but she would make buttered tea and 'unitary position' to us to drink, drinking buttered tea and highland barley wine, really fond.
Then came a border guards asked us to bring him a ride on a few kilometers away, but our car is no less than to sit, and even the back row sat three seats over four rear there is a large oil drum only politely refused him, and he said at the time it does not matter, who knows what has already forged a complain.
Go back to burning dung boil water, put the dirty clothes so clean, but also their feet with hot water, get comfortable we guagua Zhi Jiao. My left foot chasm Although not improve, nor continues to deteriorate, his right foot so that Lydia, the car pressure a bit, a little bit sore, but uneventfully. Usually action line, thought we went to Kailash Mansarovar Yatra to be transferred for several days on foot of Mt Lake, I wonder if my feet could be able to stand.
Today saw the nomadic Tibetans, the heroic Tibetan mastiff, and wild ass running, washed his head, fond, really very satisfied呀.
Zhongba (paryang area) live in Asia, Hotel Yak Hotel 15 Yuan yak meat curry, rice is the cheapest here, and delicious food
Continued
Author: raycat
