Starting Friday, July 5
6:00 from work, home 6:45, eat dinner, bath, pick up a bit sporadic thing, carrying a large bag on the subway ride along the way are numerous eye looked, in the train station to get off pit stop, 8:50 got on.
Exalted bound for Xining's K376 plays a lot of, but a hodgepodge of feelings, a lot of elderly and children. Luggage rack is full, I look to a more gentle men discuss the possibility of converting his backpack on his bag above, and that man apart from anything else it is imperative to put up my bag could be sitting at his opposite a heavy make-up of the woman hurried to stop him: "My camera bag has not Crimping, you can not let up." I looked at it a little bit guilty of leng man, that man looking at that woman a daze, later only find out two people are not together, that a woman heard that I thought the package should be overhauled to put pressure on her suitcase, the really astonished, a loud noise.
After I put away package climbed his upper berth, until the 9:11 train from Shanghai to the grid in time, I went next door to the next compartment of the two companions, first came Who knows the other side, they are more convenient for the two lower berth These, then, where they chat with.
Long hair is my sister and photographer through the ctrip found two companions. When they post messages on the Internet that have been adopted in Tibet Tourism Bureau Shanghai Office contacted a travel agency in Lhasa, the package of a jeep from Golmud to Tibet and traveled a total of two weeks, I asked, I felt a little bit high though the price However, cost-effective than chartering a person (to peer in Qinghai to find such a possibility, I still do not take into account the better), and travel arrangements, fairly reasonable, so he negotiated their car ride to Lhasa. Therefore, beginning July 5 Sheung Road to July 11, I was completely in accordance with their trip away, and arrived in Lhasa after separated.
After meeting learned that long-haired girl and the photographer are in the financial sector work, standards DINK clan, the two holidays every year are basically used for a sightseeing tour, Fuchangfusui feel very cozy. If not, they told me, I really do not see them than I was nine years old, appears to travel not only to broaden their horizons, as well as panacea effect.
Talking about 10:15, hard sleeper carriage lights, and I with them about the post-world car meet again, returned to their premises and found to lie down to sleep so early really are not accustomed to close their eyes meditatively bar.
Saturday, July 6 Train K376 sleep last night, very stable, each one back to the train departure and arrival must be awake, as awake, got up and take a look at their own backpack still is not, in the case toss no fewer than five or six really nervous.
5:00 am 2 old lady was no one to loud noise, our large group of people woke up after 6:00 they again went to bed to sleep, and snore, I really can not stand.
More funny is that before they shop around to find the train and when to Lanzhou station, when the hearing is 6:30 tomorrow morning, the surprise was palpable, should they thought it was not a 6:30 this morning?
Think about some of the pain, it appears tomorrow morning, they should not sleepy one soundly.
I now find that the greatest function of reading them to sleep. Would have been quite angry after the woman woke up, bored stare at the ceiling looked inside a half-day decided to read the results have not read a paper fell asleep, wake up until 10:40 only.
After washing up and wonder how to eat lunch, 11:40 the train arrived in Luoyang station, stroll down a lap and bought cucumbers and a bag of boiled peanuts. Cucumber is very fresh, full of thorns above the peanuts a bit fooled, and I originally thought it was salty To her surprise, was boiled for. In fact, almost fill up, and can not eat salty not pale mouth special hard for me to see someone who has bought the lunch opposite is true, so there has been a new idea.
As it has missed a small cart over time (I was happened to be in Luoyang, the platform cruise) on the 7 train to go through the dining car to buy lunch, and the way in the past found that each car has a lot of kids, almost like summer camp shuttle bus service Playing in the passage of small tricks are enjoying themselves, I really worthy of a child.
The end of the dining car business faster, and all the staff at the dinner, probably because I was the last one of the reason, playing cuisine chef gave me a box full of dishes installed, there is meat onion, garlic Taiwan pork and chicken, so I brought a box and he plans to go back to mixes.
Tells us sitting in the window seat on the outside to see the familiar scenery, from the parents think quite close, and if I make a phone call to tell them I am going to ... ..., well, something peaceful, and I do not want to travel did not start to end.
Get enough sleep the morning, and now eat, and I started reading, and this can not fall asleep.
Saw a car near Xi'an Huashan, seems to be the East Gate, a flash by. To see a side of Huashan mountain bare the white dense body, dangerous naturally do not have much to say. But I was climbing that only the low vegetation cover of the hills, now or no interest in even the small hills attraction list also is not big enough, the return will pass through Xi'an, Huashan, but I do not intend to go.
5:30 train to Xi'an when I went down turn full circle, I thought the platform would be a lot of snacks, I am disappointed that the results of the station where the sale of food that did not feature, and had to pick a bag of persimmons console itself. Dinner with cucumber, dried persimmons, comes with biscuits and canned fish can be had.
Out from Xi'an to Baoji, two and a half hours later, stopping time is longer than in Xi'an, but also continue to linger in a circle, drank a bowl of millet gruel. How long from the Baoji haunt open (about half an hour bar), that the railroad has seat dark and bare stone mountains, round Huoxiang a big buns, but also regarded as relatively unique bar. Long-distance train ride actually quite boring.
K376 from Xi'an out after the wilderness years old and stopped at the other cars first, before and after the delay has more than one hour may be basic or punctual arrival of the railway speed increase seems most likely, and when to be like the Japanese Shinkansen enough.
At about 10:30 at lights-out bed and sleep honestly.
July 7 Sunday Xining - the Tar Monastery - Qinghai Lake yesterday morning, was indeed awakened by two old ladies, but a lot of sleep last night. 7:30 get up, although the only way the two stations, but the carriage of people do not how to reduce, or full, a gang of kids look excited. Only later did I know that there are a lot of people in Jiangsu and Zhejiang in the vicinity of Xining, a small business, children summer vacation to see their parents, heard a fellow man to help kids train, brought a total of five,'s emotional can.
This is my longest so far to sit in a train, 37 hours, really terrible.
After finishing a bit washed things, read the book a while, 10:00 crew looking from another ticket, I went on the long-haired girl there Beizhao Bao, and 10:40 train arrival, stay out of station photographers in place to see luggage, long-haired sister and I to buy a 5701 times the train from Xining to Golmud. That train's departure time ago seems to be more than 7:00, and now turned into 5:51 a (later to listen to the local drivers say, two or three months ago to change time, and the poor we have found online are out of date information).
Back to the photographer, where he told us just to find a driver up to talk about car hire, the price seems reasonable, you can immediately send us to Tar, play well and then go to Qinghai Lake, at the lake one night, and then the first two days to take us back to Xining. Let's all together, can, set off on the negotiated price (450 yuan, Beverly trucks).
Driver surnamed Wen, first took us to the supermarket to add a bit of food and water, as well as fruit, and then go to a shop to eat lunch, we were a bowl of beef and mutton face, I would also like the a Haggis, tasted taste, heavy.
Eat the meal straight Tar, warm teacher suggested we hire a guide, we found a little girl wearing a traditional Tibetan dress, her Tibetan name, "Dolma", turned out to spend 50-60 million requested a guide is worth it, otherwise, we will also look into the little understood.
We are a little girl with a courtyard look at the past, the first seen is "Xiao Jin-Watt Hall," because just renovated, shining golden dome really can not stand people on both sides of the corridors put a lot of animal specimens, including a Tibetan antelope, died of natural causes later sent from the Hoh Xil. I personally like "Chi-shou Hall," a small courtyard full of Buddha and other plants, aromatic smell of a very warm feeling. "Daikin watts Hall" is repaired, the magic Bodhi tree obviously do not see, said the tree quilt cover 600 years in the hall is still the endless reason for this is because of its roots extended Basilica, in the long and Dianwai out the Bodhi tree, the tree outside to the inside continuously provide nutrients, it sounds really strange. Tar reportedly inside the exhibition hall where a lot of treasure, but 93 years since the theft occurred in the future, they will no longer open to visitors.
Tar inside the statue dedicated to a number of Tsongkhapa, specifically I do not say, and it is called in Tibetan, "Yan Ben-xian Bahrain", which means "hundreds of thousands of狮子吼Maitreya Buddha Temple", is said to Tsongkhapa was born this way, its umbilical cord cut out of a bodhi tree, when the Director of blood, his mother saw hundreds of thousands of leaves on the trees naturally reveals狮子吼Buddha, the Tibetan name of the resulting Tar. Tsongkhapa then went to study Buddhism in Tibet can not return home Tanmu, write stare at his mother to build a pagoda at the Bodhi Tree, to comfort their children think of the pain of Tsongkhapa in Tibet as the status of political and religious establishment, The original pagoda gradually developed into the present "Daikin watts Hall," and finally the formation of the current Tar scale. Guide, the "Tar" Chinese is the first, the meaning of the name "Tower" and later have the "Temple," I do not know is true or false.
At the temple last visit, "Butter Sculpture Exhibition", is one I still feel stunning places. Previously in Tibetan Buddhist temples are also seen butter, but such a large-scale butter works fine, only in the Tar Monastery in to see. Tibetan Buddhist monks have "Wen Monk" and "Art Monk" parts, butter is one of those masterpieces of Buddhist art. The real butter only in deepest winter, when low temperatures can only hand-engraving, monks Retention long fingernails, do not use any tools, hand shape into. Because butter Yi Rong (What you see now are all cover in the closet, there is air conditioning on), monks only in temperatures as low as minus weather production, they open the room door, only wearing a sleeveless jacket, his arms frozen purple, but also put a pot of cold water before, from time to time in order to dip your fingers in order to maintain low temperature, elaborate.
Tar held annually Butter Sculpture Competition, although the works of different themes, but the contents of and religion, as we have seen the most exquisite works of a group of champion in 2000, mainly depicting heaven and hell the case, in the middle there is a Buddha, works in the characters life-like body movements, occasionally dotted with flowers, colorful, petal overlay, a flower has gone from hundreds of small curly petals made of heart of the finer amazing, do not forget it easily melted butter, but with the hand-shape into the ah.
Reportedly, some old art monk, kneading his hands after a butter work disability, can no longer be doing other things, although I can not understand, but its full-Xinxiang Fo's piety, it is lamented.
Tar rushed out immediately after the Qinghai Lake, the rolling mountains along the way, rape although not all open, is also a small amount to anything. Photographed several times on his way off, look around, and refreshing. Passing Riyue, daotanghe get off when you have a concept, these places can be seen Shun is not worth a special trip to go to, especially the daotanghe, probably because the road of reason, looks like two small Xiushui ditch, it is estimated go on like this really will disappear.
Although Winn Master Muslims, but Wei Ren honest, the way chat in the past, and is pretty harmonious. 5:00 to Qinghai Lake, due to bad weather, the lake gray Meng Meng 1. We go first to the stores stay there, "Meadow Hotel," the new open their eyes it clean. Then go to dinner, four dishes and a soup and eat the delicious fish and Huang River in Qinghai Lake (Qinghai Lake near the roadside, when a lot of people will mention the Huang River fish dangling solicit business). The quantity of food is enough, we have three open belly to eat for a long time, or left one-third, and later hold a vacuum bottle of buttered tea back to the room, things can be said to alleviate altitude sickness, I have tasted, taste good, but really eat any more.
Back to the interval of the break room, 8:00 departure to the Qinghai Lake (in this case 8:30 until dark), the reason why so late is because the temperature and the master said this could not Maimen Piao, ticketing staff working hours are 8:00-20 : 00. Impression of the Qinghai Lake sentence: "as wide as the sea", only a thin film less sand, but the viewing facilities for entertainment or is not this way, also take a look at only the development work is not enough (and probably a better way Who knows?). Heard that tickets for 6 yuan a year ago, now rose to 15 yuan.
Back to the hotel 8:40, commitments have not seen the end of hot water, I then went downstairs to mention two bottles of water, simply scrub a bit, although TCL TV, but no remote control, only manual operation, I am playing with for a long time only to see four channels. Forget, away from home, living a clean on the list.
Wrote a diary a while, 11:30 sleep, fell asleep around 1:00, the room noise effects are not very good, the corridor coming and going, voices quite noisy.
Monday, July 8 Qinghai Lake - in Guide - Xining, long-haired girl 6:00 am knock at my door, drowsily Bazhuo a look at the windows of the corridor, the east is only Hongxia, thick clouds yet, and seems to sunrise is no hope, and long-haired girl and the photographer went to the lake is still, I went back to the room they lay for half an hour.
7:00 wash is completed, I would like to stroll past the lake, half-way long-haired girl ran into them, seeing a few minutes the sun is occasionally out from the clouds in the drill, alas, or early bird gets the food to eat.
Now everyone go back to watch the sunrise, leaving only me, and I was in the lake to sit through 7:50, what new no see, with the same last night 8:00 pm. Lake there is a small pier, I sat on the cement embankment write diaries, Chuichui Feng, see Lake, thought of my colleagues are now crammed in Shanghai on Monday, a bus to work, hearts to thus elatedly, there are compared in order to explain the problem Well.
Qinghai Lake is really great, sitting there, looking left to see to the right to look ahead, all one kind of water blowing. Offshore near the lake stands a platform, a gun turret on end above the same building, what the water is said to be entertainment center, yesterday saw the car coming their way far away, and with the surrounding environment, a very uncoordinated, very lost people Masaoki.
Occasionally skirted the lake like a seagull, like some of the birds, feel the wind over some smell, if not the temperature is not high (about 10 ℃ or so), sit there and swinging swinging really good. 8:00 start selling tickets, I have to work in time for the staff to leave before, and after all, saw two white, sorry.
Go back long hair girl and the photographer in the store to eat breakfast, I ate some chocolate biscuits or something like that. 9:00 We come from the Prairie Hotel, Wen said the master with the photographer, can be bent back to look at the Yellow River in Guide to think so early return to Xining is also what it meant, everyone agreed.
12:30 We are talking about before reaching the temperature and the master of the Yellow River in Guide Bridge, but the scenery along the way unlimited.
Came out from the Qinghai Lake along the rape would not have said, the cars and motorcycles to the mountain top is light rain and saw the opposite hillside full of rape, can not help but get off camera. Standing on a large bluestone and surrounded by the air filled with flowers, in addition to rape, as well as grass and a variety of wild flowers in full bloom, it do not smell the wind, rain is not faded, it is physically and mentally feel and we really wait for them to install something back to Shanghai.
In Guide to open the car to go through the fork in the road, the weather became very clear at first, and later became hot. Since no prior on-line found the relevant information, do not know such a strange landscape of the region, previously seen the hills covered with low vegetation gone, replaced by bare mountains, Zi 100 different patterns, landscape resembles some of the famous gorge, only smaller, but the three-dimensional sense of strong lines, rich, and some mountain lanes are red, in the sunshine the next, as if we should burn. Because it exceeded expectations, and we marveled at again and again get off camera.
The car continues to go on and on, mountains has become a serious weathered sand hill, where despite the minimal annual rainfall, but rain washed the mountain is clearly visible traces of sand, can not help but worry if there is a big heavy rains will result in landslides.
At noon we reached the Yellow River in Guide Bridge, the master temperature in the car on the right we have introduced, when Premier Zhou Enlai once praised "the world of the Yellow River in your Deqing," his statement true or false no place to research, but we saw the dark green water of the Yellow River Quiet flows is true (and later returned to Shanghai to friends to see pictures, they did not expect the Yellow River water is now able to render true color), when the Yellow River Runs to the end so water can be maintained, China's environmental protection work be fruitful of.
Standing on the bridge took a pass photos later, we went straight to the Yu Huangge in Guide County, which is a set of Taoism, Confucianism, Buddhism and family as one of the buildings (such a strange collection of very rare), no person in the courtyard, there is a meteorite in 1940, with the casually resting on a chair, shelf, a large-scale bulk sample placed under the eaves at the top are the people and feel naked. Rooms which seem to have a few pieces of real artifacts, but the general iron door. We stroll around again, climbed the highest Yuhuang Ge, standing three-story Tower overlooking the top of Everywhere, do not have some scenery and charm and feel can be considered a worthwhile trip, anyway, tickets on the 5 yuan.
From Yu Huangge came out to find a small shop and eat patches, which come from the wholesale ctrip on one of the local characteristics of snacks, I clamored to have to try, never thought that taste really good, is the kind of beef and mutton added burn out a lot of seasoning flavor, I like that almost wiped out, and determined to eat at night time. However, long-haired girl accompanied by very not used to, moving the two chopsticks to put down.
Eat lunch back, way back then took some photos, some before and after the point of view different posture, of course, is worth a shot. If someone to Xining travel is strongly recommended to take a look in Guide.
We have 4:30 left to Da Xining, warm teacher took us from the city to open to the east of West Street, Main Street, be considered to be the most prosperous lots Xining read it again. We excitedly rushed to the Dongguan Mosque, did not think it is now only a symbolic one to retain the original door to the building from head to toe close to the outer wall, the new precipitous precipitous, in addition to standing on top of some of the two the Islamic characteristics of the tower, and the rest was no different from the compound and the general authorities, even the doors are the kind of automatic telescopic (and my family like the gate to the neighborhood), shock aside, we took pictures and left two people, went straight to the train Point away.
At railway stations and temperature master of breaking up, day and a half fares for a total of 660 packets yuan, although I do not know expensive or cheap, but playing quite in happy, Wen Zhang master also made a card to us. I personally think he has done business plainly, though Hui, Wei Ren, but open-minded to be trusted. I still think temperature will be the master once said, saying: "After the Hui is true that people are false (The Qur'an is teach people to do good themselves in society in a few lines, but the believers in the real-life behavior may be another thing); Tibetan classics is a fake, who is true. "Think about it some philosophy.
And temperature, after we broke up master luggage placed in a train station, shop around to find a home to eat dinner, I was still eating patches, but a far cry from the taste, the feeling is Sichuan, there is no Muslim patches delicious, I really let I am disappointed. In the drugstore to buy a box of Rhodiola Oral Liquid, tonic tonight, although I doubt whether this is useful, but it would certainly bring a lot of psychological comfort.
5:30 we took the luggage on board 5701 times Train, 5:51 time out, with long-haired girl they chat in a chat, reading, writing diary, 10:30 stayed to sleep. This train is not air-conditioning, fans not to switch, open the window bar, the wind has blown people could not take, but fortunately, bought the bunk beds, upper berth Mende like a steamer like.
July 9 Tuesday Golmud - 5 beam - Yanshiping not very good sleep last night, a gang of young people travel back to Golmud to talking a little quiet after more than 11:30, the lights can not sleep after half a day in bed, feeling a very bad mood.
6:00 am to get up long-haired girl, I am up 6:30, finishing a bit thing, the train the way up in the past, see the two huge salt fields, the boundless shining white side of the workers the same as driving a bulldozer shovel car salt, in this land, of course, do not see the shadow of green plants.
Arrival 9:37 train out station find a driver to come pick us Nima Wangdui, photographer to send the postcards, 9:50 to formalize the road, entered the travel theme.
Came out from the Golmud Railway Station take a while to the urban road, all the way down to see and feel small cities, similar to the south of a town, much better than the second largest city in Qinghai, western development strategy proposal are good indeed, However, in the specific operation are still many problems.
We exchanged greetings with a few drivers, and learned that he was his first visit to Golmud, speculation may also be the first to go Qinghai-Tibet Railway in Qinghai section. We have just started have been calling him "Nima Wangdui masters", and feel very awkward-sounding, he told us is called "Wangdui" can be, and the original Tibetan name of the first two words more than the number of weeks for the birth, such as "up to wang "is a Monday, and" Nima "is the meaning of Sunday, we heard a very long exposure, but this point is unlikely to generalize bar.
Wangdui's drive too slowly, retro Toyota landcruiser looks broken, it is estimated that some years have passed. We are full of hope, and Wangdui discuss whether it can be opened faster today to strive for night Nagqu (later proved that we were certainly not the reality, if the Lu-shun car fast, open to the Amdo down some might), so that long-haired girl They can play an extra day in Lhasa, Xi'an, and I can go earlier, and now in retrospect it is really wishful thinking. Wangdui this day, the average speed of even 60 yards is not that, apart from freight cars along the way, even Beverly, Changhe have a swagger to ultra-us, I sat in the co-pilot seat on the anxious ah, what can do? Wangdui trip did not violate the agreement, and besides, away from home, safety first.
Turning next to Golmud of Qinghai-Tibet Highway - Yanshiping section impression:
The first is the building of China Railway Group, the enthusiasm of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, along the road almost every three to 40 kilometers you can see different branch positions, construction work is definitely in full swing, go hand in hand. Thanks to them, or driving of vehicles on the road and surrounded by even the personal shadow is not even think about that. Qinghai-Tibet Highway was said earlier there are still bandits robbed trucks of goods, since the beginning there will be no railways. Also, if the four Bureau of China Railway which is quite strong, every base is large, the whole facility, in addition to barracks, surprise, there are many brick houses, and this is rare.
Secondly, the Qinghai-Tibet section of the road portion of the difference between the roads, even dirt road not as good as, and now a big truck Railway Bureau are so many (about more than half of traffic flow), road damage more severe. The bridge on the road as if no one is normal, not stuck in a dangerous bridge in front of the sign is to be washed away, and the temporary Dazao cycling Road (known as "sidewalk") is very much popular impact of road speed.
There are many accidents on the Qinghai-Tibet Highway and management of the imperfect. One day we had a car accident to see no less than 20, the back to see what the car bumper knocked sort of feel can not be called a car accident. There is a windshield I do not know where to go in a big truck, a huge plastic film was covered road as usual, there is a never before it, the former body seems to be a huge discus rammed from the front a bit, entire "face "The deformity is not a nose, nose, eyes are not eyes, glass, lights and the like, of course not, even the plastic film is also no place to Mongolia, the driver can actually remained open without error, Zhengou standards.
Our car out from the five beams less than 10 minutes, it came in the ranks of waiting, I heard that took place in front of a car accident 10 minutes before there is a gap you can walk a small car, but there are two trolleys are not mutually give way, the result completely blocked. Later, we passed the accident scene, speculation may be one of a vehicle suddenly flat tire, hit a van coming the opposite open on impact, the car's cockpit empties as the block was packed with crackers, on the ground in one place, grease and zero - Part wreckage, it is estimated the odds are the driver. Having said that, since the place had an accident, would nonetheless be some control a bar, Wangdui later told us that the accident took place last night, and we really did not understand Does the site have to be retained until this afternoon, not a?
Where the blocking period of time, there are several impatient drivers of the open jeep, the car pulled off the road, along the roadside ditch before the trip, and then onto the road, there may be two-phase drop two or three meters, and the trench with water, sunk to is not fun, so enjoy no less than five or six times, "hoisting" the worst thing is a Beijing Jeep, have rushed into the road, and half bad, but rear wheel, then slide it down, but once behind the success.
Enjoy the appreciation of other people go, we Wangdui teacher was not such a spirit of adventure, and he stood on a sidewalk and chat with other drivers, some drivers even leisurely lying on the grass drying from the sun, we sat in the car the people in the emergency terribly: Are we going to spend the night here, not a?
Fortunately, over about half an hour, it is estimated waiting team routed to the Public Security Bureau of the five door beams, and a police car pulled up, the police under the command of big brother, big trucks were all sidelined, vans, cars, jeeps priority access. When we opened over the police side, the photographer emotion directed at them features a move to say "thank you", it is estimated that he had never seen the police have been so cordial.
Later we also are re-built after a bridge, except that the command of vehicles to and from the People's Liberation Army. Wangdui told us long ago been washed away, the exchange of vehicles blocked a five or six days, thanks to the People's Liberation Army will soon cultivated a "sidewalk" Otherwise, I do not know until when. We always hear that the People's Liberation Army comrades really is the most lovable person. This is not just empty talk, walking in the almost deserted the Qinghai-Tibet highway, which feelings are deep indeed.
In the Qinghai-Tibet line there is a unique landscape, it is to look at moving vehicles. Feeling when you first saw a very spectacular indeed mighty, never been stopped, a lot of military vehicles will be washed in good faith, we "wink," I have not counted the longest a team of military vehicles, a total of 50, each team the first car will hang a big banner, such as "close-knit organization. safe road", "to pay tribute to the building of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway," and so on, really worthy of the PLA. We have also seen a coach car, hood, full of little fighter, looked also 17, was eight years old look like, or a group of older children away from their parents to such places as soldiers, bitter enough.
By the way, there is one thing we must mention that we Xidatan bound for five beams on the way, sitting in the car on the left of the photographer suddenly shouted "Tibetan Antelope", everyone turned away a look, wow, really Tibetan antelope , is moving rapidly running, a total of three, two small (which we jokingly called "a 3"), under the sun to see the back of their shiny light, shadow is very strong and vigorous, slender shape and stretch, not as we see in a zoo of those animals, a stubborn curves.
Walking in the Qinghai-Tibet line is worried about altitude sickness, vehicle and five beam is more than 3:00 pm, has been hearing people say that five beam is one juncture of the Qinghai-Tibet line, the results of long-haired girl in the five beams when the first was barely a. She committed a rhinitis on the train, it did not take too much notice, I got more serious, hoarseness, because from time to time wipe the nose, it is estimated respiration are also affected, in the five beams refueling stop, she continues to facilitate their return, after sitting in the car a half-day be changed, dizziness, shortness of breath, and later even a spit, quickly take the medication and did not dare to tamper with the.
When I was five beams down do not feel anything, I got tens of meters away, looking for a logo of an object shot ZHANG Zhao, only to find signs of cement on the capitals of the "Duke of five sections," the words, casually shooting the one. Back to the car heart secretly weigh, according to online presentations, safe after five beams, should not have much to respond. The results prove that, it is because of such a good sense of self, so I was too let down our guard, and later out a bit enjoying the cool shade conditions. In fact, people in the highlands, especially in areas above 4,500 meters, always should pay attention to the body, because the altitude sickness are all pervasive.
10:00 Wangdui since we can not get on the car all the way tired of hurry, lunch is a simple pass in the car, and I ate at 12:00 for a long time something like these cookies, and later because the scenery along the way see fresh, always do not feel hungry, even the water had not touched. 7:00 pm days more we arrived at Tuotuohe very bright, although not expected to arrive as early as Nagqu yes, but taking the road of 90 km, about 9:00 Yanshiping accommodation can still rushed, so that tomorrow's itinerary can also be easy to some. Yanshiping 13 kilometers away from the place where Wangdui master parking refueling, long-haired girl asked me hungry, not hungry, I replied that I definitely survive on.
Really Shuizuidazui, car plus a good oil-infested two minutes to open, I felt numb hands and feet, dizziness up, and my heart burst of timid: Is a low blood sugar? Such signs have been four or five years never committed, and I've long ago forgotten myself have had low blood sugar problems.
Car to Yanshiping, I have strong insisted on go to the bathroom, as if the car stepped on a heap of cotton, a cold sweat just as confused as also could not hear, dizziness, as if the body was floating up, I quickly called the photographer and told him that I guilty of a low blood sugar. Photographer escorted stable for a while, and so clearly seen, and found a step to sit down, when you feel cold hands and feet, T-shirt has been drenched but I just want to find a stove baking and roasting. Photographers go to the car took a grain of sugar, I eat for a long time after the return to God, as if the whole person through an extreme sport, little effort. Later, a photographer, I also escorted a walk in the middle then they sat on the roadside for a while, This feeling of low blood sugar be passed.
This accident gave me a big shock, I always watch myself not to cold, but things are unpredictable. If you visit mid-elevation to upgrade faster, do pay attention to the body, not to overlook the plateau.
Yanshiping is a very, very small place, there is no cell phone signal, even the depot did not, we can only live in dorm Road class. We first went to eat, then at about 9:30, in front of a shop to sit down, three points of the two bowls of Egg Fried Rice, a bowl of tomato soup, cooking up a little, after all there is no appetite, Pa has not fresh rice, drank a few mouthfuls of soup, and then the old man strode Granny-style steps back.
When looking at the empty cold room, dirty tide Huhu quilt, as well as everyone looked sluggish when I felt really depressed to the extreme. While the photographers were not very good response so far, but he used to have asthma, it is also nervous.
Road class quarters back hills, a room with four beds, 30 yuan / bed room with a table can be placed on luggage, there is a boil water with cow dung stove,, would be nothing else. We are not far from the entrance tummy has always been a big black dog, Jian Renjiu barking, we can not go out is not out, threw himself in case it is the wrong brains take a bite, it's not joke.
To pack up washed my face, everyone would go to bed, because the door can not be locked and had to keeping lights on to sleep. After the 11 o'clock it began to rain, the rain on the roof of the voice is very sound, but when lightning cardboard paste the ceiling has been dynamic and static continuous flow seems to be rats in four voices jump, everyone over and over again, all can not be sleep.
Nearly 1:00, the enormous sound like slap in our roof, and then listening to our room, the sound seems to be ticking, hurry up and see, really lucky, only the luggage goes on the bed side leaks, transports and collects a look at things, clothes to lie down for us to go together.
Just stayed to sleep, a sudden blackout, and a dog barking up the door, it would only become familiar with all the voices of black dog, but there are a dog's voice is very special, before each call to be "loud clamor ... ..." a voice in such a dark and stormy night, it sounds really an indescribable terror.
Tossing between the feeling of the heart as if a rabbit injected with a stimulant-like throb incessantly, the solar plexus, "Pingping" to the accompaniment, it is estimated heart rate has returned to just the frequency of birth, which is probably the altitude sickness of the bar. Altitude sickness, and finally still came.
Wednesday, July 10 Yanshiping - Amdo - Nagqu - so when the male has endured a night, 6:00 Mengmeng days when we could not wait to get up bright, three people did a good sleep to fully experience the majesty of the plateau night. When we asked Wangdui washed last night, it was not Lang Hao, Wangdui would say that it can be in our hearts is beyond me.
Yanshiping rush to escape, the car opened a half hour later Tanggula in the end, we carefully off camera. On the bus did not take long, long hair girl spit up, then spit the photographer is also deduced that a bit, probably an open-water to drink bad last night, opened on the plateau, even boil water is not boiling water, last night we unresponsive,全忘了这一茬，我因为一直喝瓶装水，躲过了。
从唐古拉山口下来后路况见好，一路上鲜有大货车，旺堆仿佛找到了回家的感觉，象撒了欢的兔子似的活络起来，我们全程仅经历过的一段90码的车速体验也发生在这个上午。
一路飞车，我们于11：00左右到达安多，加油吃饭，我们三人点了一碗番茄蛋汤，每人一小碗喝下充数，虽然还是没胃口，但整个人感觉好多了。手机终于有了信号，急忙打电话报平安。旺堆一下车就高兴地发话，下午3：00就能到当雄，这样今晚就可以在纳木错住上一晚，明天上午就可以到拉萨了。我们三人听后着实激动了好一阵子，但再次上车后发现车速一直在40－60码之间，旺堆不好意思地跟我们打招呼，后胎的刹车片胀开后贴在轮子上，车子开不快了，我们的喜悦顿时化为乌有。
车子从安多至那曲的那段路上下起了大雨，尽管如此，行进在一望无际的大草原上，视野宽广得能看得出哪里正雨云密布，哪里正艳阳高照，我的眼睛连日来有些不大适应如此深远的视界，居然有些酸痛，真是夸张。
经过雨区时，我看到了一根巨大的闪电，形状仿佛老树的枝桠，凌厉地划破长空，伸展着从天而降，仿佛正劈在我们走的路的尽头，虽然转瞬即逝，但留下的感受回味无穷。
那曲是我们从格尔木过来看到的最大的一个城市，穿过中心城区时看到马路两旁有宾馆招牌，条件相对好多了，但仍不能和内地城镇同日而语，将来青藏铁路开通后可能会有很大发展。
终于在4：30到达当雄，旺堆把我们放在一家“成都饭店”吃晚饭，自己修车去了。点了一份丝瓜汤，一份青椒土豆丝，长发妹他们要了一碗米饭，我喝了一碗玉米粥。这家店的蔬菜极新鲜，全是大棚里当天摘下的，味道烧得也不错。
吃好饭后，我们百无聊赖地等了一个半钟头，终于看到了双手油黑的旺堆，据说买了零件自己把车修好了。载我们去了一家“西藏货运总站当雄交通招待所”，我们要了一个三人间，25元/床。进屋一看，条件比昨晚要好多了，干净不说，每人两床被子都是暖烘烘的，房间居然有电视，什么西藏一台二台、中央五台六台、青海陕西河南台应有尽有，足有二十个频道，我们又回到了信息时代，大家看了半天新闻联播。
当雄的这一晚是我这次旅游中睡得最好的一晚，第二天早上起来后不仅疲劳一扫而光，而且还有种脱胎换骨的感觉，精神状态奇佳。
不过有一点不得不说，当雄这个地方因为没有自来水，所以和自来水有关的东西，例如水龙头、马桶之类的设施都没有，真是个罕见的县城。
7月11日星期四当雄－纳木错－当雄－羊八井－拉萨昨夜下了一夜的雨，但因为房间隔音性能良好，也没有影响我们睡眠，大家只是担心是否上得了纳木错，后来才知道这种担心绝对多余，那种一下雨就开不进纳木错的现象已成了老皇历，但连日暴雨就说不清了。
7：00不到从当雄出发，旺堆在一个转弯处一头栽进了一个水坑里，车头几乎与地面呈45度，不过最终有惊无险。没开多久就碰上了售票处，网上说的20元门票早已上涨到了45元，我们虽然嘀咕还是交了，谁让咱信息落后呢？进山的路在门票上写着只有40公里，其实从当雄出来约61公里左右，现在只有一小段路面不大好走，其余已基本修好，看来多收钱是有道理的。
翻过山后我们的车子开到了60码，从出发开始到扎西岛一共用了接近两个小时，道路全修好后会更快些。我们回来时看到桑塔那、面包车之类的全部开进了纳木错。纳木错，离人潮汹涌的日子不远了。
我们约9：00到达纳木错，那时天气不大好，拍出来的照片灰朦朦的，但看到如此清澈的湖水，大家都非常激动，觉得两天的苦没白受。湖畔全是小石子，被湖水冲刷得干干净净，沿湖有不少大大小小的玛尼堆，在远处连绵不绝的念青唐古拉山脉的衬托下，纳木错湛蓝而浩浩荡荡的湖水令人感觉十分神圣，难怪被称作圣湖。云南的泸沽湖虽然秀美可人，但纳木错能给心灵一种纯静的感觉，相比之下更胜一筹。
有一点我至今不明白，那就是纳木错怎么会有那么多蚊子（虽然有人说不是，但我还是认为那是蚊子）。刚开始我还奇怪，为什么我走到哪里都有一团蚊子围着我，后来仔细一看，原来地上停的都是蚊子，说一脚下去能踩死几个绝对不是夸张，我从来没看到过那么多蚊子，虽然没有“铺天”，但肯定是“盖地”了。无奈之下只好拉紧衣服拉链，扣紧连衣帽，尽可能裹严实些，而且最好不停走动，否则衣服裤子都会变成蚊子的“停机坪”。不过这些蚊子好象不咬人，难道圣湖边的蚊子都是雄的不成？
我们在湖边呆了两个小时，中间有那么一会儿阳光穿透了云层，长发妹和摄影家看到了一道彩虹，只停留了两分钟的样子，我那时正埋头向湖边一个小小的“制高点”行进，没看到，可真遗憾。
湖边有不少鸟，其中有一种样子有些象海鸥，它们在展翅高飞之余，还会滑翔降落在水面上，浮游一会儿，时时发出“嘎嘎”的叫声，这也算是纳木错一景吧。
在湖边碰到了不少年轻的游客，有一位来自台湾的小伙子和我们聊了一会儿。他们在对大陆不甚了解的情况下，在网上看到×××旅行社的介绍，委托对方代办进藏手续，结果一张外籍人士进藏许可证花了1200元/人，据我们了解，工本费其实只有100元/人而已，真是被宰得一塌糊涂。他们到了格尔木后，结识了另外三个同伴，在火车站找的吉普车，包车费一共3500元（具体车型我没看到），行程为：
D1：格尔木－沱沱河
D2：沱沱河－那曲
D3：那曲－纳木错，宿湖畔
D4：纳木错－拉萨包车费几个人分摊下来倒也不贵，据说还可更加便宜。现在格尔木做青藏线生意的吉普车越来越多，下了火车后会有人主动上来询问，我个人感觉桑车走这条线问题也不大。
青藏线走了一路没看到什么藏族小孩，我还担心有些东西白带了。在纳木错倒发现了不少小孩，什么饼干之类的食品全部发掉，在湖畔还碰到两个转经的老年藏族妇女，后面跟了个小孩，约六、七岁的样子，身上背了不少游客丢弃的塑料瓶子（真让我看了脸红），我把特意带的笔记本送给了那孩子，两个藏族妇女一个劲对我说些什么，但我不会说藏语，她们也听不懂汉语，挥挥手和她们告别，走出十几米后回头一看，她们还站在原地冲我挥手，真令人感慨。相比之下，车子开下山回当雄的路上，碰到了两群小孩子伸着手追车子，令我们有些不知如何是好。旺堆早就对我说过“不要给他们太多”，我似乎有些明白他的意思了。
经历了此行温度最低的一段路程后，我现在比较有信心谈谈自己的“装备”情况：上装是三件T恤，一件双层的长袖罩衫，最冷的时候穿一件T恤套一件罩衫足够。下装包括一条中裤，一条长裤，还有一条双层的长裤，带了一双羊毛连裤袜，但一直没用上。脚上一直穿着一双沙滩凉鞋（有一个很大的好处，就是不用带拖鞋了），冷的时候套一双短袜子就能应付过去。这些衣服一路过来足够御寒，也许我属于不大怕冷的那种人，但基本上应该差不多。
从纳木错下来后大家心情愉快，身体状况走出了低谷，胃口也好了起来，在昨晚的那家小店里吃中饭，三个人点了三菜一汤，吃得我们心满意足。
充满期待地开往羊八井，地热其实并不重要，重要的是能马上洗个澡。
从当雄开往羊八井用了一个钟头，地热喷出的白色气柱老远就能看到，售票处的人问我们要不要游泳，长发妹他们带了泳衣，在露天的游泳池里泡了一会儿。更衣室的水很热，无法站在淋浴下面冲水，地热洗起来滑腻腻的，感觉洗不干净，但毕竟是洗过了。
洗好后直奔拉萨，羊八井至拉萨的路才刚修好，旺堆称其为“西藏的高速公路”，这当然也是青藏公路最令人放心的一段路，再也不用担心地紧握扶手了，爽！
下午5：17我们开进了拉萨市区，整个城区的东西轴线很长，旺堆把我们送到长发妹他们联系的旅行社那里，我托他们订7月14日去西安的机票，他们看过我的身份证后答应明天出票。
办好机票后我就与长发妹和摄影家他们告别了，我这个超级大灯泡光荣地结束了使命，他们将继续向珠峰进发。几天下来，大家相处得很愉快，而且我身体不适时受到了他们的帮助，挺感谢他们的。
从旅行社出来后我叫了部出租车，直奔吉日旅馆，拉萨的出租车在市区到哪里都是10元，出城就是另外一回事了。
一进吉日就感觉到了强烈的旅游气氛。院子里停着吉普车、大卡车，大卡车是那种我曾在杂志上看到过介绍的经过改装的大篷车，拖车是密封型的，有窗户，不仅可以载生活用品和设施，还可以打地铺休息。那辆车的性能相比很不错，那帮老外应该开着它走过了不少地方。
在吉日的登记处，三个前台服务员正在接待一帮外国人，流利的英语让我在旁边惭愧了半天，好容易等她们空下来，上前询问还有没有房间，服务员斩钉截铁地回答我：“两人间没有，三人间没有，四人间也没有，只有七人间有空床。”七人间，太夸张了吧，我头也不回地背着包走了。虽然网上介绍的门票情况相差很远，但有一点没错，那就是现在是拉萨的旅游旺季。
我沿着北京东路向西走，没多远看到一家“敦固宾馆”的牌子，进去一看房价，双标房40美元一间，虽说可以打折，但再折也不是我要住的那种类型。
继续走，看到马路对面“亚宾馆”，一头冲了进去，回答说客房全满了。正当失望之际，前台小姐说还有一个床位不知你要不要，20元一晚。过去一看，是大门旁的一个小房间，里面只有两张床，一个玻璃茶几，一个垃圾桶，房间小得再也放不下其他东西了，一张床上已摆了东西，它的主人是一位山东女子，刚刚走开，算了，先要下再说，总比睡七人间好吧。在前台交钱时，回味了一下那房间，总觉得有什么不对头，后来再进去时才发现，那小房间没窗户。
一直没有把“YAK HOTEL”作为住宿首选，是因为网上都说它比较吵，住进去后有了一些切身体会。
在YAK一共住了三个晚上，感觉好象它基本被外国人占领，偶尔看到几张亚洲面孔，可一张嘴都是日本话，真令人扫兴，能摊上个中国女子同屋是我的幸运。在YAK，我们是“外国人”。
把背包放下，和同屋的女子聊了一会儿，她叫“苗萌”（一个充满希望的名字），从兰州一路玩到拉萨，还要继续往青海走，虽然工作但假期充足，令人羡慕，而且她是在铁路局工作的，进出方便又省钱。
拉萨的天直到9：00才会黑下来，我走到朵森格路的西藏军区二招看了一下，以前在书上看到过介绍，似乎还可以，看过之后才明白，那真是一个招待所，感觉仿佛回到了八十年代，我瞧了瞧就死心塌地地回YAK了。
回去的路上顺便解决了晚饭，在YAK附近的一家小店里要了一碗砂锅米饭，6元一客，其实是砂锅泡饭，里面有几片牛肉、火腿肠，蔬菜有平菇、青菜、绿豆芽、榨菜，一个人吃挺不错的。
回到房间大约9：30，收拾了一下，洗澡，水好象不太热，洗好后和苗萌聊了一会儿，她11：00睡了，我补写日记。
需要说明一下YAK的一个特色：YAK有一个不大不小的庭院，除了用作停车，还是外国人闲聊的宝地，那些到拉萨的外国人仿佛无业游民般轻松自在，每天晚上喝着啤酒可乐，海阔天空地神聊，一直到凌晨两三点钟才会结束。
我们的简易房正对着庭院，聊天的人说些什么听得清清楚楚，我1：00躺下，在床适应了一个钟头后，总算在英语对话中入睡。
7月12日星期五拉萨（布达拉宫、色拉寺、罗布林卡）
苗萌今天去纳木错，她7：00起床后不久我也起来了。 YAK的早晨静悄悄的，庭院里只剩下三三两两的空瓶。苗萌在这里已住了几天，告诉我说那帮外国人大多10：00左右才会露面。
有人退房，我拿到了一个普通双人间，50元/间，前台小姑娘说那间房位置比较偏，这正合我意，离庭院越远越好，而且价格也比标准双人间便宜多了。马上收拾了东西搬过去，锁好房门后直奔布达拉宫。
本来打的想从后山进去，可是看门的说9：00以后才能放车子上山，还要等半个小时，我只好走前门了。打算走后门的原因是想省些力气，不用爬台阶上山，其实真正爬起来也不怎么费力，用了大约一刻钟时间，还好。
后来证明走前门的好处还是比较多的。参观藏传佛教的殿堂，其中一个规矩是“左进右出”，若是从前门上来的，按照规定的参观线路，每个殿堂都可以顺应此规矩走一圈，但若是从后门上来的，基本全都反着走，感觉比较别扭。
清晨的布达拉周围全是藏民，走着相同的方向，好多人手中拿着转经筒，广场上有不少人磕长头。我发现好多藏民都牵着狗，而且都是肥肥的哈巴狗，跟在主人后面跑得屁颠屁颠的，真好玩。
从前门到台阶有一段便道，一路上不停地有人推销哈达、酥油之类的东西，小孩子甚至会扯着你的胳膊不放，真的不大好。
9：15到达德阳夏，买票，70元一张，真贵，我又买了两份说明册，看过后知道，布达拉宫向游客开放的殿堂一共有二十多个，参观路线都是固定的，前门进入的顺序如下（后门相反）：
1东庭院－2白宫门庭－3东日光殿－4弥勒佛殿－5坛城殿－6三界殿－7长寿乐集殿－8上师殿－9七世达赖喇嘛灵塔殿－10圣观音殿－11八世达赖喇嘛灵塔殿－12九世达赖喇嘛灵塔殿－13时轮殿－14释迦能仁殿－15无量寿佛殿－16释迦百行殿－17法王洞－18合金佛像殿－19西大殿－20菩提道次第殿－21持明佛殿－22五世达赖喇嘛灵塔殿－23观世音本生殿所有殿堂内都有线路指示、标识牌及简要说明，参观起来很是方便。
先进入白宫，白宫内容不多，主要是日光殿，由于旅行社都是从后山上来的，所以免费解说暂时蹭不到。后来偶尔听到一些，可是大家方向不同，也不可能一直跟随听讲。
从白宫出来后进入红宫，红宫中殿堂极多，但我们能看到的只是其中开放的20个，但主要的都在这里了。参观过程中按着线路指示上上下下，搞得我晕头转向，方向莫辨，不停地翻资料看说明，总算看了个基本明白。
经过金顶时花10元钱买了张门票上去看了看，拍了几张拉萨市南部区域的俯视图（北部区域在上山时拍过了）。金顶对面九世达赖喇嘛灵塔殿顶正在进行修缮，十几个工人手持工具边工作边唱歌，还有身体动作配合，虽然听不懂他们在唱些什么，但我为他们的心态感动，我自己从来没有这种享受工作的感受，套用米卢的说法，这才是“快乐工作”，游人无一不驻足欣赏，颔首微笑。
离开金顶后继续参观，此时大约10：00左右，殿内游客比刚才多了不少，除了拖家带口的藏民外，旅行团一个接着一个，许多地方只能排队进入。
经过文物精品展时，又花了10元钱进去瞧了瞧，珍珠坛城、贝叶经等宝贝都在此展出，走过路过当然不能错过。
法王洞是我的参观重点之一，第一次去时人很多，大家排队进入，匆匆随人流转出，看完后我回想了一下，怎么介绍图片中穿蓝衫的文成公主塑像没有看到。
虽说如此，我还是先把第一遍看完，出了世袭殿（即观世音本生殿）后，坐在台阶上把所有的说明资料看了一遍，又回忆了一下刚才参观的情况，决定回头再看一遍几个主要的大殿。
红宫底层的集会大殿“司西平措”是我比较喜欢的地方，它是布达拉宫最宽敞的殿堂，约有700多平方米，中央是达赖喇嘛的宝座，上方悬挂有乾隆皇帝御书的“涌莲初地”的匾额，大殿四壁全是壁画，其中最为著名的，当属那幅描述五世达赖入京晋见顺治皇帝的壁画，场面非常浩大。由于光线非常好，我当时想也没多想，举起相机就要拍照，还好一个喇嘛过来提醒我，若是拍好后被抓个正着可就尴尬了。
五世达赖喇嘛的灵塔殿也在红宫底层，布达拉宫内有五～十三世达赖喇嘛的灵塔（六世除外），其中五世达赖喇嘛的灵塔最高，有14.86米，塔瓶内是经脱水处理后配以香料、藏红花保存的五世达赖遗体，塔座和塔瓶共用去黄金11万两，上面镶嵌着钻石、珍珠、玛瑙、翡翠、绿松石等1500颗各类宝石，藏民称之为“赞木耶夏”，意思是这座塔的价值抵得上半个世界。但总的来说，我对这些东西的兴趣有限，用我的俗眼看上去，所有灵塔除了大小不同，外观形状都差不多，用料不外乎黄金玛瑙绿松石之类的，看过算数。
红宫二层的法王洞和时轮佛殿也是再看一遍的重点，时轮佛殿内有时轮坛城和众多历算家的塑像，塑像有100多尊，我实在看不出什么大名堂，那座坛城，倒是印象深刻。坛城为密宗本尊聚集的道场，密宗修习时筑坛迎请诸神于内以祭供，可起到防止魔众侵入的作用。时轮佛殿中的坛城非常有特色：一是规模宏大，底座直径数米，主要建筑上下有十多层；二是结构复杂，建筑物前后左右错综复杂，重重叠叠；三是工艺精湛，楼阁飞檐翘角，雕梁画栋，建筑四周和内部有众多人物形象，举止生动传神。
这次到法王洞的机会比较好，开始时只有我一人，值班的喇嘛不仅给我详细介绍了有关的历史传说，还解答了我的疑问，原来文成公主的塑像早已穿上了金色的衣服，就坐在松赞干布右侧，我真是只认衣衫不识人。
我还向喇嘛请教，我在书上看到的“超凡佛殿”好象没有嘛，一个喇嘛热心地带我到顶层去。他很方便地带我在游人不得入内的地区穿行，告诉我去年在上海举行的“西域珍宝展”他也去了，一共呆了三个月，还说了两句上海话给我听。
到了地方后我一看，原来某些资料上提到的“超凡佛殿”就是“圣观音殿”，我又拜了一遍，还被一个老喇嘛轻轻拉着以额头触了一下底座，那个来过上海的小喇嘛对我说，在这里许愿非常灵验。
出来后我去了那个小喇嘛值班的八世达赖喇嘛的灵塔殿看了看，然后跟他道谢告别。
从正门出来后，在德阳夏看到几个人在缝补些什么，面积非常大，半卷半摊在地上，顺手拍了张照，后来想想似乎有点象过节时展开的大佛图。
参观布达拉宫一共用了3个小时，其中第一遍只用了两个小时。布达拉宫看上去规模很大，但对游客开放的殿堂有限，所以两三个小时足够了。
中午沿着北京中路走了一段，随便找了家店吃了中饭，回到YAK梳洗了一下，快2：00出来，打的到色拉寺，门票35元（我发现几乎所有的门票都比网上查到的贵些），还买了本说明册。
先去了麦巴扎仓，色拉寺内的殿堂给我的印象是黑乎乎的，因为没有电灯，全靠酥油灯照明，走得人磕磕绊绊的，不得不小心翼翼。不过我看到每个大殿前都堆了很多木料，有些已开始修缮，届时电线会一并拉进去的。
走到阿巴扎仓时看到里面坐满了喇嘛，似乎在诵经，我一时不知是否可以进去，也找不到可以问的人，徘徊了半天，后来看到一个导游带着刚才看到的一对日本人毫无顾忌地登堂入室，我也就放心跟了进去。我发现那对日本人很有个性，每到一处殿堂，先找喇嘛交拍照费（西藏所有的寺庙大殿内拍照都要收费），然后东蹿西蹿地拍个不停。阿巴扎仓里的喇嘛念经的音调很好听，仿佛藏民唱歌似的，而且声音一浪接着一浪，在高大的殿堂中流转回响，听多了会有一种说不出的迷失感。
从结巴扎仓走到措钦大殿的路上发现了不少游客，原来旅游团的客车都是直接开到寺内措钦大殿的路旁，大多只参观大殿和一个扎仓。我瞧了半天，没发现一个中国人的旅游团，看来导游解说是蹭不到了。
色拉寺大殿的主供佛是一尊高大的强巴佛，据说寺内还有一件镇寺之宝“金刚杵”，我当然没看到，但那套金汁抄写的“甘珠尔”、“丹珠尔”倒是看到了，好象布达拉宫也有一套，反正都是无价之宝。
当我3：15从大殿出来时，隐约听到此起彼伏的击掌声，立刻感到精神倍增，快步向辨经院跑去，全然忘了这是在高原，结果到了辩经院后喘了半天才缓过神来。后来我才知道色拉寺的辨经过程是对游人开放的，而且可以随便拍照，我刚才根本就不用那么着急。
看辩经是色拉寺的一大特色（所以游客大多是下午到这里），辨经院内没什么建筑，但树木高大繁茂，非常荫凉，僧人们有的席地而坐，有的站立，现场的气氛十分热烈。站着的喇嘛会向坐着的喇嘛发问，而且还要摆出一个辨经的特有姿势：左手前伸，右手高高扬起，然后下挥击向左手，据说这个姿势会扬起好的东西，坏的东西则被挥去，具体还和回答问题的满意度有关。
随着喇嘛们越聚越多，劈里啪啦的击掌声络绎不绝，游客们看得兴致勃勃，到处都是按快门的声音。
我在围观的人中发现了一个很特别的人，看他的打扮似乎也是一个喇嘛，不过和西藏喇嘛穿戴的有些差别，他不仅带着照相机和摄影机，口袋上还别着个MP3，非常另类，我站在远处偷偷拍了他一张，这人真令我好奇。
看了一会儿辩经我就回去了，在出寺的路上看到一条样子怪怪的狗，我拍了一张照。对了，昨天在拉萨街上看到一只无人管的羊我也拍了一张，据说拉萨街头四处游逛的羊是寺庙里的神羊。回来后给朋友们看照片，他们说我拍得真滑稽，神羊背后那家餐饮店的门楣上就大写着“烤全羊”三个字，当时拍的时候真没注意到这个细节。
从色拉寺出来后打的直奔西藏宾馆，去旅行社的办事处取机票，可是到了后对方告诉我票还没送过来，于是叫了辆三轮车到罗布林卡。
罗布林卡本来是“宝贝园林”的意思，可是在我看来却是一没人疼没人爱的苦孩子，虽然门票要35元一张，但园中杂草丛生，一派疏于打理的情形，和江南那种精致的中国园林风格无法相媲美。不过在海拔这么高的地方，有这样一片园林也算难得，只是管理方面有待改善之处颇多。
我沿着园子的南侧向西行，先去看“格桑颇章”，只能参观第一层，没什么可多说的。然后去了距离最远的“金色颇章”，后来证明这是个极错误的决定，浪费了大量体力，沿途的动物园、游乐园根本不值一看，“金色颇章”中除了达赖的人力车可以一看，别的也没什么，真是白费一堆时间和功夫。
等我后来走到“达旦明久颇章”（即新夏宫）时已是5：40了，匆匆在里面兜了一圈，看到了大家津津乐道的收音机、抽水马桶等物品，确实令人心生感叹。我对走廊里几盏圆圆的吊灯也很感兴趣，趁没人注意时偷拍了一张，后来洗出来一看，吊灯一点效果也看不出来，倒是走廊的壁画特别鲜艳，真是应了“有心栽花无心插柳”之说。
从“达旦明久颇章”出来后赶到“湖心岛”，遛了一圈拍了两张照后就被工作人员清理出了园子。 “观戏楼”关门比较晚，里面是一些艺人在唱歌跳舞，游人可以一同参与，我进去瞧了一眼就出来了。
走到大门口，有几个据说是日喀则附近某个寺庙的小喇嘛找我募捐，说是要修缮寺庙，我捐了一点，心中感叹寺庙的贫富差别，这天下永远是有人欢喜有人愁。
坐三轮车去旅行社，这次总算拿到了7月14日去西安的机票。打的回去，到八廊学下车，进去看了看，感觉还没有吉日好，以后再来就住YAK了，位置最好。
一路往回走，看到了“木如寺”“下密院”，感觉不是很好，没有进去。走到一个路口，忽然想起了“小昭寺”就在里面，顺路去看看吧。
进去有大约十分钟的路要走，沿途有各种小商小贩，但不是卖旅游纪念品的那种。小昭寺门口冷冷清清的，规模也很小，里面没几个喇嘛。大概因为时间晚了（大约7：00），也没看到卖门票的地方，我向一老人打听，他让我直接进去。大殿紧闭，只看到几个磕长头的虔诚信徒，我绕着大殿外面的转经廊走了一圈，拍了几张照片就出去了。
去“冲赛康市场”买了些黄瓜、番茄之类的东西，慢慢走回了YAK，在门口的小店里吃了一碗砂锅饭。吃好饭9：00多，回去洗澡，今天的水比较热，而且流量大，好好洗了一把。回到房间补写日记，罗罗嗦嗦写了两个多小时，1：00睡下。隔壁房间住了几个广东人，半夜三更进进出出，好象夜游神。
7月13日星期六拉萨（哲蚌寺、大昭寺）
昨晚让服务员7：30叫醒我，她是叫了，可我又睡着了，醒来已是8：30，本想早些去大昭寺的，看来不行了。洗漱完毕后打的去哲蚌寺，车子开到寺院门口，20元。
下车后直奔售票处，门票35元，卖票的那个喇嘛盯着我看了两眼才把票卖给我，后来才发现，也许今天是星期六的缘故，来哲蚌寺的90％都是藏民，有很多和我差不多打扮的藏族青年，象我这样买票入内的屈指可数，而且寺内没有一处检票的，好象不买也没问题。
哲蚌寺比我预期的参观时间长，一方面是因为规模比较大，它有不仅7个大殿可以看，还有很多小院落；另一方面是因为地势高低起伏，不仅要上楼下楼，还要上山下山。我一刻不停地走了约3个小时才看完，感觉非常耗费体力。
哲蚌寺内的参观线路指示得有些混乱，殿堂内只有藏文说明，没有汉语或英文，我经常会走得一头雾水，分不清自己到了哪个大殿，只好随便找个人，指着门票上的示意图询问，反正感觉特别麻烦，这里我是不会来第二次了。
去措钦大殿时看到喇嘛们在洗土豆，一个很大很大的铁皮箱子里装满水和土豆，喇嘛拿着根长长的木棍搅来搅去，没有些力气还真干不好。厨房就在大殿边上，我没多想就走了进去，大大的锅、黑黑的灶台、浓浓的酥油味，忽然听到身后的喝叱声，只见两个藏族妇女急急退了出去，才想起以前看过的种种禁忌，赶快转身走了出去，还好没惹什么麻烦。
今天好象是什么特别的日子，大殿里喇嘛特别多，忙着做一种供品，形状象寿桃，涂成暗红颜色，上面还缀着白色的酥油，有些做得比较精致，酥油片堆成花朵形状，只是整个大殿里充斥着一种怪味，闻多了冲得头晕。
在哲蚌寺结识了一位很和善的藏族小姑娘，开始只是因为每次进殿参观都会碰到她，后来发现她有时会故意留下来等我，于是就和她一起走了。我本来只打算参观门票示意图上有标识的建筑，但小姑娘认得藏文，一些小院子即使门掩着，她也带着我进去参观，问她是什么，她也讲不清楚，反正跟着她一起拜就是了。小姑娘的汉语不流利，但可以交流，她来自四川，专程到拉萨来朝拜，还有两位家人同行，最后在出寺时我也看到了。
走出哲蚌寺已是12：30，和小姑娘分手后打的回YAK（只要10元），回到房间躺了一会儿，今天感觉真的有些累了，我都有点不想去大昭寺了，可是想想明天就要走了，还是赶早不赶晚的好。
2：00去大昭寺，一路过去都是店铺和小摊，和国内所有知名景区一个样。大昭寺前磕长头的人非常多，正门前有一处燃酥油灯的矮房子（我推测是“点灯祈福”的意思），里面无数灯光闪烁，汇集成一股热浪直冲门口，热得我连拍照的念头都没了。
大门紧闭，走进旁边的侧门，里面是一个院子，可没看到售票处在哪里，正好此时有一个团队进来，我就跟在他们后面往里走，就这么稀里糊涂地发现自己居然没买票进了大昭寺。后来知道，上大昭寺金顶的楼梯旁有一个书摊，那就是卖票的地方，一般会有两三个喇嘛守着。
进寺后看到庭院里拉着白色的棚子，上面画着法轮之类的图案，下面摆着案台和坐垫，坐着许多喇嘛，看样子是在做法事。拍了两张照片后往里走，沿“千佛廊”走了一圈，转出来时正好碰上喇嘛们的法事告一段落，只见中间两排喇嘛挥来转去，身上的黄袍换成了红色的，然后又坐定再开始，我始终没搞清楚这是为什么。
走进大殿，里面供奉的佛像众多，正中就摆了六座，由于有栅栏围着，所以那尊摆在正中间的“千手千眼观音”只能遥遥观望，看不真切。周围小佛堂都用铁链门拦着，只能隔帘相望，但是那尊释迦牟尼十二岁等身像的精致与美丽，还是令我震撼不已，听说上午帘门会打开，我决定明早再来一次。
参照自己查到的说明资料，我很快就把大昭寺正殿看了一遍，正想出门，碰到了一队国内游客，好象是一群导游在参观，领队的那位导游能言善辩，讲解起来生动形象，而且不断引经据典，颇具可信度（不象有些导游净喜欢瞎说八道），我被吸引住了，又随着他们再看了一遍。
这次讲解蹭得十分过瘾，那位导游的导游不仅把大殿中央和小佛堂里的有关情况介绍得一清二楚，连摆在大殿侧边的佛像也能解释个明明白白，令我大长见识，碰到这样的导游真是幸运。
出了大殿后上大昭寺顶，那里有个角度可以拍布达拉宫的全景，拍好后出来已是4：00多，顺着八廓街走了一会儿，买了一些送人的小东西。讨价还价真是一件很辛苦的事情，而且我本来就不喜欢逛街，后来实在没耐性逛下去，拐进了一个小巷子，地图上也查不出位置，向路边的小学生打听了几次，才走回大马路，一看原来到了江苏路上，叫了辆三轮车去宇拓路上的新华书店，里面有不少关于西藏的书籍，挑了两本书，《漫游西藏》和《西藏自助旅行手册》。买好书后又流蹿至对面的百货大楼买了些食品和饮料，再走到娘热路上的民航售票处，核实了一下机票和民航班车情况，步行回YAK，走得我精疲力尽，晚上也懒得去小店吃饭了，反正有饼干和罐头。
9：00多苗萌回来，她今天4：00就从纳木错回来了，我们聊了半天，方才得知她已经45岁了，我还以为她至多35岁，眼光不济，差得太远了。
今晚睡得早，洗好澡11：00多就睡了，日记以后再补吧，我实在是走累了，不过下次再来拉萨就不用这么辛苦了。
7月14日星期天拉萨－西安早上7：30起床，洗漱完毕后与苗萌告别，她今天下午离开拉萨前往青海。
8：00多到达大昭寺，果然八廓街上都是转经的藏民，大门也是敞开的，门口依旧有众多磕长头的藏民。
进入大殿，正中的栅栏依然关着，四周小佛堂的铁链门绝大多数都已打开，手捧酥油灯的藏民排队进入，秩序井然，相比之下，我这个一身游客打扮的人真有些另类，但大家都一心朝佛，没人会东张西望。
我在释迦牟尼殿那里排了队，随众入内，近观佛祖十二岁等身像，感觉被笼罩在一片祥和之中，身心纯净，那微微低垂的眉眼，令人心中涌起一股莫名的感动，真不知是该感叹古代艺术的精妙，还是该更多赞叹佛法的圣洁。
出了释迦牟尼殿后我登上了二楼（昨天下午通向二楼的门是关着的），原来二楼除了挑空的中庭，四周也有一圈小佛堂，供奉有不少佛像，在三楼也有一处佛堂，我跟随人流转了一圈，这次算是毫无遗漏了。
从大昭寺出来有9：30的样子，在亚旅馆旁的小店里吃了一顿早饭。这次在拉萨，比较有名的“雪域餐厅”、“怪牛沙龙餐厅”、“玛吉阿米酒吧”、“八角咖啡屋”等都没去，一个人吃吃喝喝挺没劲的，等以后呼朋唤友到拉萨来再说吧。到西藏旅游，以拉萨为中心东南西北各有一条旅游线路，我这次只是把北线走了一遍，以后还得来。
回到亚旅馆，把东西收拾好，歇了一会儿，11：00去娘热路上的民航售票处，坐11：30的班车去贡嘎机场，35元/人，车程一个半钟头，我的飞机是下午3：20的，坐这趟车其实有些早，但这是上午最迟一班车，不得不乘。
从拉萨至贡嘎机场沿途有不少风景，我带的资料中有详细介绍，但大中午的，烈日炎炎，大家全拉着窗帘，什么也没看到，下次吧。
1：00达到机场，放下背包写了会儿日记，2：00去换登机牌，虽然我排在第三，但没想到排第一的是位导游，带了一个63人的大团（怪不得这么积极），而且全是日本人（讨厌！），那帮日本人光托运的行李就有五、六十件，全是最大号的那种旅行箱，刚开始那导游每次往传输带上放四件旅行箱，结果传输带屡屡被卡住，后来只好改为两件一放，虽然他动作迅速，几乎挥汗如雨，可还是用了近40分钟才办完，等得排队的人极不耐烦。
在排队的时候，有一个中午一起乘民航班车的女的找我，说她带的行李好象超重，让我帮她带一件上去，我想也没想就答应了，后来那女走开后，排在第二的小伙子提醒我……，我一想也是，以前在报纸上也看过类似报道，出门在外安全第一，这样的忙少帮为妙。不过奇怪的是，安检的时候那女没来找我，我打量了一圈也没看到她，这样也好。
因为这件事情，我和那小伙子攀谈起来，他来自兰州，由于工作关系经常在青海、西藏、宁夏这几个地方跑来跑去（羡慕啊，免费旅游的大好机会），拉萨现在没有飞兰州的航班，他只有搭乘至西安的飞机在西宁下，后来我和他聊了一路。
飞机晚了一会儿起飞，3：30我们登机后发现挺空的，因为不愿和一大堆日本人坐在一起，我和那位兰州小伙子换到后面坐，聊起了拉萨，他来过很多次，告诉我现在拉萨市区一半以上都是四川人，这点我也感觉到了，我还曾问过一位藏族出租车司机对此有何感受，回答是“四川人比我们能吃苦”，心态很好。
兰州小伙子第一次到拉萨时，感觉有些失望，大概是因为把西藏想得太神秘了，后来慢慢也就接受了，很多人大概都有同感。我看到的拉萨，是一个正在发展中的高原城市，除去布达拉宫、大昭寺等市区特色建筑，它和普通的西部城市没有太大差别，因为以前社会处于奴隶制，一下飞跃到了目前的状况，而且长期受外国，特别是印度、尼泊尔等的影响，加上西藏旅游的牌子又吸引了来自世界各地的众多游客，古老与现代、传统与时髦、中国与外国的各种思想在这片土地上并存，这种状况有些人看了也许很认同，但也有些人可能觉得很别扭。其实对于一个城市的自然成长过程，抱这一种旁观者的欣赏态度，是比较合适的，我们只是过客而已，只有生活在这里的人才有权利去改变它。
值得一提的是，兰州小伙子说当地的司机开车都比较“野”，如果包车特别要注意，长途最好找旅行社，比较有保障些。他有个同事曾经打的去机场，司机一路飞车，经过曲水大桥时，迎面也开过来一辆的士，两车在大桥上交汇的时候，双方司机一点减速行驶的意思都没有，“唰”的一下，大家左侧的观后镜都被挂掉了，令人吃惊的是，两辆车不约而同地都没停下，继续飞奔而去，他的同事被司机这种习以为常的态度惊呆了，以后再也不敢打的出城了。
我们还聊起了青海、宁夏和甘肃的一些风景名胜，有些地方，象宁夏的西夏王陵、沙坡头，甘肃的莫高窟等，特特地地去一次似乎太隆重了，最好到周边地区旅游时（如新疆）一并带过，这样比较经济些。
还有一点写出来不知是否妥当，就是全国各地的人对上海人似乎都有些印象不佳，提起来第一感觉就是太精明了，其实上海人也不全是那种很精明的，而且现在象我这样大学毕业后才在上海安顿下来的人也很多，虽然没有具体统计，上海的“移民”人口比例应该是很高的，来自全国各地的都有，上海的本地文化固然根深蒂固，但它也在不断吸纳新鲜理念，取长补短，希望以后出门和别人说起上海人不会感觉怪怪的。
飞机5：40达到西宁机场，和兰州小伙子告别后在候机室里遛达了一圈，西宁机场大概是全国最小的一个机场，停机坪估计最多只能同时停三架飞机，我一向不拍什么机场、火车站之类的照片，过后有些后悔，应该拍一张西宁机场的全景。
6：10从西宁起飞，7：10达到西安，7：35乘坐民航班车，每人25元，一路上有乘务员介绍西安情况，并且可以提问，态度极好，后来有很多人在玉祥门的秦都酒店下了车，跟着乘务员去订酒店、旅游团、机票之类的。 8：35我在终点站西稍门下了车，马路对面有很多航空公司的售票处，可惜时间晚了，只有一家西北航空公司的在营业，买了一张7月16日下午4：10回上海的机票，因为有一张9月份的入学通知书，享受了6折优惠，真开心。
在公交车站等车，在网上查到在西稍门有223、302、405等公交车到“书院青年旅舍”，可等了半天也没看到，后来一打听，原来8：00以后这些车就没了。只好打的，这对我是个极不情愿的选择，因为从网上得到的印象，好象西安的出租车很宰外地游客，刚才我在民航班车上碰到一个下班回家的机场工作人员，他也这样提醒过我，但现在已经9：00多了，不乘出租车，还能怎样？
招手拦了辆出租车，告诉司机旅舍的地址“大南门内西顺城巷”，他也搞不清楚“西顺城巷”在哪里，于是在南门下车。一路上我警惕性极高，其实司机师傅挺好的，真是有些多心了。
下车后好容易在书院门牌楼那里找到一个人指点了方向，向西面城墙根儿走去。后来我发现，其实“西顺城巷”是个在西安市地图上都找不到的小巷子，还不如说是公交205路终点站更容易找些，这条公交线路的调度室就设在巷子口，里面就是。
在前台办理顺利办好入住手续，这里双人间80元/床，多人间50元/床，会员有一定优惠。我要了一个双人间，交好钱后，前台告诉我要与一个美国人同住，说那位女士完全中国人模样，一口流利的汉语，很容易沟通。前台还向我推荐旅游团和一个年纪很轻的导游，被我推掉了。
服务员带我到房间门口，一开门我愣住了，房间除了一张床是空的，其余堆满了东西，床头柜上、沙发上、写字台上、凳子上、电视机柜上（那台15寸的黑白旋钮式电视机根本就是个蹩脚的摆设）摊得到处都是，地上还放着两个打开的旅行箱，连门把手上也挂了两个塑料袋。
我掂着脚尖走了进去，看到一个五十岁左右的女性从卫生间出来，自我介绍后她收拾了一下东西，让出一张凳子给我放背包，问我地方够不够，我没什么东西，当然够了。不过即便不够，再让她腾地方出来也是一件挺痛苦的事情，她的东西实在太多了。
我一边收拾自己的东西，她一边和我聊了起来。她好象和这里的经理认识，在这里已住了些日子，我大概是旅舍安排给她的第一个同屋。虽然她一幅中国人长相，但言语中好象从没来过大陆，因此问了我一大堆问题，例如：“为什么大陆的老百姓都不大关心城市卫生？”“为什么政府只顾着发展经济，不关心社会福利？”“为什么大陆的高级宾馆也好，达官贵人的住宅也好，卫生间里都有一股怪味道？”……，劈头盖脸的一通问题，令我感觉自己仿佛是一个接受学校审查的小学生，而且我总觉得她的态度有很多不理解、甚至居高临下的成份。美国是个发达国家，但这世界上还有很多象中国一样、甚至更不发达的国家，不要只活在自我的圈子里，要多一份理解和包容。
这样的提问、回答状况一直持续到11：00，我实在忍不住打断了她，到卫生间洗了个澡。卫生间里闷热不堪，开着排风也没用，而且和房间一样，到处摆满了大大小小的瓶瓶罐罐。
等我洗完澡出来时，那个美国人已睡了，我躺在床上半天没想通，难道是我一路上太顺利，上天故意派这个美国人来给我增加些“花絮”？
7月15日星期一西安（华清池、兵马俑、清真寺）
早上那个美国人先起床，房间里的那台破空调声音太响了，以至于我迷迷糊糊躺在床上问美国人：“外面是不是在下雨？”美国人盯着我看了半天，我一下子醒了过来，赶快起床。
美国人在卫生间里呆了半个多小时，我带着我的洗漱用品到外面的公共盥洗室去刷牙洗脸，标房的卫生间没有窗子，而且通风不畅，特别闷气，我乐得在外面洗漱。
8：00不到从旅舍出来，天气闷热，预报说今天39℃，以后来西安绝不挑夏天。
白天的南门车水马龙，不过交通秩序稍嫌混乱。在公交车站边的一个小店里吃了一碗“糊辣汤”，两个肉夹馍，早饭中饭一起解决。乘车去火车站，一路上见识了一下西安市容，感觉钟楼附近商厦林立，晚上可以来逛逛。
在火车站下车后有点转向，问了几个人后找到了停在东广场的306路绿色大巴。在网上看到不少人说西安火车站很乱，我的感觉是一般城市的火车站都是比较乱的，西安站拉客的人比较多，不停有人推销住宿和旅游中巴，不要理睬他们就是了，别的其实没什么。
乘坐306路大巴的人很多，但不全是游客，有好多是当地人，象和我坐一起的那个女孩就是临潼人，今年大学毕业，刚在学校领好毕业证回家去，我们聊了一路，车子开出市区后她向我指点路边的葡萄园、石榴园，据说石榴花还是西安的市花呢。
车到华清池我和她告别下车，门票40元，西安景点的门票大多是那种磁卡式的，没什么太多文字说明。大概因为时间还早，没什么游客，我一进门就被一群当地导游围住，说华清池占地130亩，很大的，导游费只要10元，想想也不贵，而且刚才车上的当地女孩给我不错的印象，再说被她们包围着实在麻烦，后来我就被一位40多岁的中年妇女领着逛园子了。
事实证明，这是个极为错误的决定，后面的一个小时过得索然无味，那个导游每到一个地方就面无表情地背一通导游词，唐诗宋辞从她嘴巴里出来就变成了白开水，有些地方没去，许多地方都是点到为止，最后还把我带到了园子里的玉器商店，我赶快给她10元钱把她打发了。
时间才10：00多一点，我一个人从从容容在园子里遛达，先到东侧依山而造的亭子和游廊里坐了一会儿，山上有不少大槐树，槐花落得满地都是。有两个人在亭子里吹笛子，一个穿唐装的估计是园中的工作人员，吹得比较好一些，当笛声流畅时边听边看风景，挺受用的，可是他好多地方吹不过去，象被噎住了似的，听多了可真着急。
华清池东部有一个比较大的小园子，内有一荷花池，水中有不少红鲤鱼，有时鱼儿会排队环游，引得不少游客驻足观看，可也有些人不大文明，以击掌跺足惊吓鱼儿为乐，还有些人朝池中吐痰，实在恶心。 “五间厅”就位于园子里面，游客可以从窗户中看看房间内的摆设，其实里面简简单单，也没什么好看的，倒是墙壁和玻璃窗上留下的当年西安事变时的弹孔挺有意思的，当年老蒋秘书住的地方现被辟为展览室，里面有一些蒋、宋、张、杨的图片，还有两张周总理的照片，值得一看。
华清池中部的几幢建筑里面是一些著名的温泉，如：莲花汤、海棠汤、星辰汤、太子汤、尚食汤等等，当年的富丽堂皇只能凭借文字描述来想象，基本上就是一个大坑，铺了些青石板，看过算数。中部还有一个文物陈列室，不知为什么没开电灯，里面黑乎乎的，勉强看了一遍，有几片瓦当很好看。
西区的主要景点“九龙湖”前面矗着一尊杨玉环的雕像，在此拍照留影游客络绎不绝。湖边垂柳依依，繁花似锦，僻静处小坐片刻倒也不错。在“飞霞殿”前还有一幅用汉白玉制作的“杨玉环奉召温泉宫”大型壁画，可以一看。
几处主要的景点看过后已11：30多，我按原计划打算去洗温泉，走过去一看，售票处居然站着早上进门包围过我的几位导游，罢了罢了，别洗了，我撤。
出门的路上经过一处名为“梨园”的建筑，里面有舞蹈表演，游客可随意观看，看上去是比较正规的那种。
从“华清池”出来12：00左右，仍旧乘坐306大巴去“兵马俑”，我买的是8元的往返票，十分方便。途中经过“秦始皇陵”、“地宫”等景点，我看过网上的描述，没有下去。
“兵马俑”门票65元，好贵，估计这些钱都用于盖房子了，里面的几处展厅开间非常宽敞，看上去气宇轩昂，特别是大门右手的那处最新落成的陈列室，上上下下全是石材，空调又足，非常凉快。
进门后我先去了电影厅，环形的画面有一种身临其境的感觉，进门时买了一个大大的“和路雪”冰淇淋，边看边吃，看了一遍英文解说的，又看了一遍中文的。原来我以为兵马俑是因为自然原因所以出土时都是碎的，看过后才知道是被项羽的部队毁坏的。
出了电影厅到一号坑，这里是主力军阵，也是最值得拍整体照的地方，里面的游客络绎不绝，蹭解说真是轻而易举，而且各种说明牌也很多。一号坑面积近15000平方米，很大，我因为要看说明牌，就绕场一周，出来时又到门口的电子导游那里翻了半天，里面内容非常多，看一遍下来起码要半个多小时。
看完一号坑到二号坑，这里既有骑兵，还有驽兵，灯光比较幽暗，我的傻瓜机也不用浪费胶卷了，看看就可以了。一侧有玻璃橱窗，里面分别摆着“将军佣”、“跪射佣”等，听了导游解说才知道造型如何独到，一个人真的看不出什么大名堂。
二号坑后面就是三号坑，我因为绕场一周，结果出门后直奔前面陈列室而去，后来再回过头来去参观三号坑，走了不少冤枉路，大太阳下烤着，走来走去真不舒服。
陈列室里面最值得看的就是二楼的两乘驷马单辕的大型彩绘铜车，据说明牌上称它们由大小3000多个零部件组装而成，主体是青铜铸造，还有金银饰品。我在那里蹭了两次导游解说，听讲之余内心感叹古代人的聪明才智，只是我们现代人不要一味沉溺于津津乐道这些过去的事情，现在和未来对我们才是最重要的，不是吗？
三号坑呈凹字形，好象是军阵的指挥系统，规模最小，武士佣夹道排列，大概因为看疲了，我也没仔细瞧，匆匆转了一圈出来，只想找个地方歇歇。
从“兵马俑博物馆”出来约3：30，看到有卖“菜合子”的，买了一个，里面有绿豆芽、黄瓜丝、卷心菜等，外面用一张薄面饼包着，看上去很清爽，本来应该味道不错的，可是我没想到那辣椒糊那么辣，眼泪都忍不住，第二天早上起床后发现脸上多了两粒痘，真是立竿见影。
乘306返回，乘客很多，有不少人站着。到火车站随便找了一辆公交车乘到钟楼下来，没有上去细看，只是拍了一张照片，在附近的邮政书店买了份西安地图。又走到鼓楼，依旧过门不入，拍照一张。
鼓楼过去有一条小街，叫“北院门”，放眼望去全是清真小吃店，顺着去清真寺的指示牌向里面走，一路过去全是各种旅游用品的小摊子，看上去比“兵马俑”门口的精致多了，但都是回族经营的。我对一个小东西起了兴趣，问了价后拿起来打开看了看，觉得里面有些粗糙就没卖，结果被女摊主数落了两句，有了这个教训，我再也不想买什么东西了，目不斜视，直朝前走。
大约走了十分钟，来到清真寺门口，门票12元，说明性的小册子免费奉送（真难得），进去后发现这是到西安后最值票的一个景点。
西安清真大寺为中国四大清真寺之一（和同样是四大之一的西宁东关清真大寺真是一个天上一个地下），占地约13000平方米，建筑面积6000多平方米，创建于唐天宝年间，其后各代陆续扩建，始成今日之规模。
整个寺院共有四进院落组成，进从大门进去首先是一个建于十七世纪初的木制大牌坊，与对面的砖雕照壁相对应，虽然距离不够开阔，但整体还是很有气势。牌坊后面有一幢建筑名为“五间楼”，南北两侧各有厢房三间，里面陈列着各式明清家具，其中有一张红木雕花龙床，据说和慈禧太后还有点关系，但只能从窗户中窥视。
经过五间楼后就进入了二进院，正中矗着一座石牌坊，上刻“天监在兹”，两侧各有“虔诚省礼”和“钦翼昭事”字样，牌坊后面东南两侧各有石碑一座，分别名为“冲天雕龙碑”和“敕修殿月碑”，阴阳面皆有书法作品，好象其中一幅还是米芾的手书。二进院的敕修殿是西安清真寺的最早殿堂，殿内有一块“月碑”，内容好象是关于伊斯兰斋月的计算方法，这块碑被木橱包裹，而且上了琐，看不到（估计看到了也搞不明白）。
通过敕修殿就进入了三进院，它由省心楼、官殿、讲经堂组成。省心楼位于院落正中，据称为宣礼者呼唤寺内教徒的至高点，小楼南侧为官殿（内设沐浴房），北侧为讲经堂，讲经堂内陈列有书、图等藏品。
跨过连三门，就进入了最后一进院落，院落中间为一真亭，由三个亭子相连组成，檐翼飞翘，故又称“凤凰亭”，它被印在门票上，想必是整个寺院的标志性建筑。亭子南北两侧各有七间厢房，北厅现放置着石碑、日冕等物品，南厅原为接待朝廷官员使用，摆放有各色桌椅、字画、瓷器，据说这里有一幅鱼骨镶嵌的黄杨屏风很不错，我找了半天在门背后发现了几扇屏风，摆放得甚为随意，可随意触摸，也不知是否就是。礼拜大殿为七开间九进深，不可入内参观，单从外面看没什么特别的。
西安清真寺内还有一样东西不能不提，那就是遍布院落的众多精美砖雕，内容多为花鸟鱼虫字，线条流畅，古朴雅静，我一路狂拍，被一个乘凉的穆斯林看到后，特意指点我到三进院的厢房后去看一看，结果我在那里拍到了几幅最漂亮的砖雕。
从清真寺出来时已6：00，我从原路返回到北院门，然后沿街自南向北走，两边全是小吃店，我看到了在网上颇有些名气的“西安清真老四烤肉”，想想一个人吃烤肉挺没劲的，就没进去。继续往前走，看到“贾三灌汤包子”，进去要了一客羊肉灌汤包，一杯冰镇酸梅汤，早听人说这里的包子“皮薄如纸、馅嫩含汤、调料香浓”，吃过后感觉名不虚传。
从北院门后来后沿西新街、北大街走回钟楼，在开元商厦的超市里转了一圈，看到光明牛奶顺手买了两盒，然后在麦当劳里买了杯咖啡，到楼上找了安静的地方坐下，写我的旅游日记。已经有两三天没写了，与其现在回旅舍被那个美国人“审问”，还不如我坐在这里写写日记。
在麦当劳坐到9：30起身回去，沿着南大街遛达了20分钟到达“书院青年旅舍”，回到房间一看，哈，美国人睡着了。我到旅舍的公共浴室洗了个澡，黑灯瞎火坐在床上发了半天呆（等头发晾干），11：00睡。
7月16日星期二西安（小雁塔）
早上7：00起床，那个美国人睡得挺熟的，我轻手轻脚地出去洗漱，心想最好赶快弄好后退房，省得与她交换通讯地址（她前天晚上就提出过）。等我回到房间时，那个美国人还是起床了，一幅睡眼惺忪的样子，原来她是被前天晚上我在前台看到过的那个导游小姐叫醒的，唉，真是人算不如天算，只好与她交换了通讯地址，然后背着我的包去前台退房。再见了，美国香蕉，原谅我不能对你说“Nice to meet you”！
办好退房手续后我把包寄放在前台，去大雁塔。
我发现住在“书院青年旅舍”最大的好处就是到哪儿都方便，附近起码有三十多条公交线路可供选择，去哪里都有公交车直达。我在西安期间除了从民航班车下来乘过一次出租车以外，其余都是坐公交车和三轮车，非常方便。
今天西安的天非常阴沉，但气温还是很高，结果车子离大雁塔还有三站路的时候就开始下暴雨，等我在终点站大雁塔下车时，地上早已汇起大江小河，走了没两分钟裤子就打湿了。站在大雁塔门外拍了张照片，估计效果不怎么样，到处都是水朦朦的。
看来与大雁塔没什么缘份，依旧坐了来时那班的609路车，在大雁塔十字下了车，我在来的路上看到那边有家“樊记腊汁肉夹馍”分店，去好好吃了顿早饭，樊记的肉夹馍2.5元一个，当然比我昨天早上吃的1元一个的要好吃，但好吃程度是否有2.5倍，我也搞不清楚。
等我吃好早饭，雨小了很多，但天气依旧闷热无比。走回头路去大雁塔？我可不情愿，于是乘21路公交车去小雁塔。下车后有点分不清东南西北，找了半天才找着大门，其实就在大马路上，我大概是被早上一通暴雨淋糊涂了。
小雁塔门票10元，登塔需另付10元塔票，售票的告诉我是一空心塔，我也就没买，大热天爬那么高，免了吧。
进入小雁塔园区，只见参天大树夹道而立，感觉十分安静，除了两队外国旅游团（其中一队我昨天在兵马俑碰到过），没有更多的人。在塔前一座小楼的陈列室里看到不少小雁塔的历史图片，有一张当年大地震后的照片给我留下了深刻印象，那时的小雁塔从正中间被震裂，看上去仿佛两个塔拼在一起，十分有趣。
继续向里走去，庭院深深，草地上水珠晶莹，树丛中蝉声嘶鸣，时有飞鸟低低掠过，不由人放慢了脚步，这里与其说是一处旅游景点，还不如说是一个公园更为确切。
小雁塔原名献福寺，是为唐高宗百日献福而建的寺院，香火曾经盛极一时，但现在园中大殿、厢房全用于出售各种旅游纪念品和工艺品，甚至还有一间是仿古家具展示厅，“大雄宝殿”里除了一幅释迦牟尼的竖轴，摆满了各种旅游纪念品，但工作人员大多只管各自乘凉聊天，也不招徕生意。昨日之兴盛已不可再现，今时之寂寥却历历在目。
从小雁塔出来已10：30多，计算了一下时间，去碑林或陕西历史博物馆都不够，留待下次吧。来西安之前有人告诉我，说西安一些景区的日本游客多如蝗虫（也许这样说有点刻薄），可我居然没怎么碰上，真是幸运之至。
乘车回南门，在书院门附近遛达了一个小时，小巷青石铺地，两旁店铺林立，全是出售文房四宝和字画的，我一路看过去，什么也没买，一直走到碑林才打住，叫了辆三轮车，去“老孙家羊肉泡”吃中饭去。
进店一看，一楼坐满了人，一碗羊肉泡馍12.80元（套筷等用品0.80元一副），里面放了两个馍，我问前台小姐可不可以只要一个馍，她回答我一个两个价格都一样。找了个地方坐下，开始对付那块硬硬的馍，我掰，我掰……
我掰了半个多钟头才对付完一个馍，另外一个就算了吧，我也没那么大胃口。对面一家三口，掰了三个馍送进去，端出来两碗半烧好的羊肉泡馍，我的一个馍送进去，等了二十分钟后，送出来大半碗，那碗本来就挺大的，估计和上海的满满一大碗份量差不多。来之前就听人说，“老孙家羊肉泡”口味比较清淡，尝过之后确实如此，估计全国各地的人都吃得惯，但在我看来有些不过瘾，下次来西安去“同盛祥”尝尝。
从“老孙家”出来已12：30多，乘三轮车去旅舍取背包。在“书院青年旅舍”住了两天，对这里有了一些大概的认识。平心而论，旅舍的地段很好，出入十分方便，但由于房子是仿古建筑，卧室、卫生间的通风很成问题，内部设施真的不怎样，大概是国内几所青年旅舍中最差的。按照我以前在网上看到的青年旅舍开设标准来衡量，这里好象有一定差距。
在南门乘23路公交车去西稍门，坐2：00出发的民航班车，3：00到咸阳机场，换登机牌，买机场建设费，安检，3：40登机，飞机4：10准时起飞。
在飞机上碰到昨天一起乘306路大巴去兵马俑的三个外国人，这世界有时真的很小。
飞机上有一家人非常惹眼。一家五口，应该是欧洲人，那家的爸爸妈妈应该是三四十岁的样子，长得高大挺拔，爸爸一直提着个大旅行袋，妈妈怀里抱着个小女孩，一岁多，长得象洋娃娃似的，最大的男孩十岁样子，登机时一直背着一个大背包，大约60升容量（那种包装满了东西我都背不动，他们体力是好），较小的男孩八岁左右，也背了一个带小孩座椅的背包，这家人眼珠湛蓝湛蓝的，身材修长，一路上谈笑风生，夹杂着小女孩的呀呀学语，看上去十分美满幸福，连坐在周围的人都看得微笑起来。
6：00飞机降落，上海，我又回来了，回到我生活的现实中来了。十多天的旅程虽然结束了，但生命不止，行走不息，将永远是我真心的希望和实践！
费用小结
总计：7030元交通：火车票437（上海－西宁）＋122（西宁－格尔木）＝559元包车费220（西宁－青海湖－贵德）＋2300（格尔木－拉萨）＝2520元飞机票1420（拉萨－西安）＋650（西安－上海）＋100（机场建设费）＝2170元共计5249元，约占75％
门票：共计422元，约占6%
作者：jeanyoung
