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April 28 holy lake Manasarovar clear on this piece of terrain on the square stands the young generation is the world's highest plateau, there is the world's most rarefied air, but also the world's most clean, and looking far into white The Snowy Mountains, is the eagle soaring above the blue sky, here is Rain in the vastness of the holy lake, the most beautiful and the sun rises every day here, day after the golden Xiaguang the end of the gallop in the wind of the streamer like the endless torrent of Brahmaputra, and will not be deterred because of my stop, that moment, I know I will continue, otherwise, I will regret it, I do not want to leave a regret of my journey.
May be a break yesterday, well, my legs have been restored. Genius is just becoming light, we start, the car along the gravel roads to the lake to the Nankai be opened soon stopped, because the front was a huge ice blocked the avenue, only to climb in the past, we started off walk away.
Lydia, left view cars, Shan-shan, Big Brother, Gesang, LC, and I climb over the ice one after another. These ice to see much larger than yesterday, I asked Gesang: "Why are all these ice on the shore, rather than in the lake."
Gesang said: "The night temperature dropped all the frozen lake, but also by a larger blown to shore, so the ice is only on the shore, while the lake but did not."
Such thick ice could blow ashore, it seems that we encountered yesterday, can only be considered a small wind.
Manasarovar with Gangrenboqi together for the world to create a culture, shaping the minds of the common human world. Such a world is the real center of the world, but also the other side of the world's fate. Central Asia, the location of almost all ancient religions on its description of a series of mystery and legend. Accordingly, the legend of Manasarovar is also to cope with their multiple.
Legend Manasarovar is the daughter of Tethys, with snow-capped mountains Gangdese love, unfortunately, been turned into lakes; added that in a long time ago, Arigon living lake habitat with a very large fish, a major Fish swim to the Manasarovar, floating in the lake, as if the mother holding baby. So far the Tibetan people call his mother in the Jasper Lake, that she is a female or mother.
Many religious classics and legendary records have described it. Here is the Hindu legend called Shiva and his wife - the daughter of the Himalayas live in Kamiyama goddess Uma, Uma, the goddess bathed every day in Manasarovar years, so the lake has become holy water.
In India's mythology, Manasarovar is a great God Brahma formed with the idea, because his son needed a place Kamiyama ascetic after a bath. Therefore, Hindus are usually transfer to Lake en route to the lake, bathing, bathing the lake there are four doors: the east Lotus doors west dirt bath door, sweet south gate, the north gate of faith. Always of pilgrims have to have been to this lake by turning the bath as the greatest blessing in life.
Buddhists believe that: Manasarovar lake water directly from the melt Kamiyama is a holy water, Manasarovar is the respect given to big wins Le supreme nectar of humanity, with this water purification, to remove people's hearts on the " top five "(greed, fury and folly, laziness, envy), able to make the soul to be baptized, and the skin to be clean. Drink this water can dispel diseases and physical fitness. Pilgrims, such as turning around the lake may have boundless beneficence.
We stagger to climb over a thick layer of ice, the ice is not smooth to display in the lake, and some, such as a sword inserted in, and some, such as Ying Xiong to be a soaring, some drifting in the sea as a great iceberg, and some ice, erected a small icicle root, like a crystal goblet, in the sun's radiation issued a crystal flash. Some of the ice and if the same aircraft carrier formation, elongated ice quintana transparent, even following the stones can be seen clearly. Lake as a long ice sculpture of the art gallery, beautiful, true nature sigh delicately carved. Blue lakes and mountains of ice, let's just like standing on the Antarctic land.
The more south go, the ice began to become smaller, and we embarked on the gravel roads are no longer worried about the sudden crack of ice stuck his feet. Attention is no longer focused on the foot, you can enjoy to enjoy the lakes and mountains, and standing quietly behind the snow-capped mountains can be the color of the lake it will be as light and unpredictable changes in the angle. Sometimes as a general blue sea, deep blue people can not see through the mystery of her following, but when you become the light of the light blue, people like the illusion of exposure to the Mediterranean, one will also become like a clear spring generally transparent, as if they go to the beautiful scenery of the south.
I feel that my words have been unspeakable her beauty, is the vivid description of Tibetan people, northern Tibet Shepherd's "praise the word mountains," said: There are three overflow lake, on the Ding's Manasarovar, like the golden light butter to spill; Central Beam fall, Namco Lake, the water like a silver cup to the spill; below the red snow Jia Mu Yong measures Qinghai Lake, like the compass of milk to spill.
Gesang suddenly back Shouyi Zhi: "Look, Kamiyama Gangrenboqi."
We have shouted Looking back, Gangrenboqi finally turn out that we could see the pyramid-shaped peaks appear in the Lake of the most left, he saw is in such beauty, there is no wasted hard way that we Christians.
Lake there is a Mani Dui, facing Gangrenboqi peak, and we sat down to rest. Walking distance of Lake turn five Tibetans, Gesang, and talk to them and told us: "They come from a distant home, that place where I do not know. Has been transferred to Lake four days, and tomorrow will go to Gang Rinpoche Qi Mt. "
Through Gesang interpretation and their blessings with each other and go off when the good-bye at the Mt. Waving goodbye to them, we move on, because when we walk to the Trugo goneba when Gangrenboqi us turn to the lake will be a central, standing Trugo goneba to enjoy the lakes and mountains, that location to see the scenery beautiful .
However, after 4-hour trek, air power has been better than at the beginning, and it went to Tai Guaiwan Department has a lot of streams to be taken.
Gesang said: "These are Iriki Nani peak snow water into the river by the injection of Manasarovar, and now snow-capped mountains to the snow melting season yet, the water Qianshen but ankle. If you do not melt the better, and if during the rainy season become very rough, even to the waist, then walk through a very difficult. "
Think about waist-deep to jump into the cold raging river, and now off the agenda for what the ankle of the river is just their shoes wet, but the feet of the river immediately felt the biting cold.
Gesang, pointing to the direction of flow, said: "followed by a ghost lake Laon wrong, but now the dry season, the lake's water level back, and to go very far before they can see."
Compared with the Manasarovar in history located on the west of Laon Manasarovar is always more Snub wrong, nor for the general known. This may have many causes. There is a reason, people think it is the main gathering places Rakshasa king, India, the ancient "Ramayana Story" in the abduction of beautiful Star of the nine Raksasa King lived here.
Lake In addition to Tsai-cut temple known as blocks are often tourists to go sightseeing, pilgrimage, there is no turning the roads. Another reason is that this lake could be around the hot spring bathing is not. Around the lake in the winter weather is cold, desolate landscape, and just talking in terms of area, Laon wrong than Manasarovar small, only 70 square kilometers. At the same time shape of Laon wrong result. Its only advantage is that the lake has two islands. These two islands, one called La Kyaw Htoo, is the habitat of wild birds. The other is called Taub-color Ma. Is said from the beginning of this century there was a health district Foseng a single person in this hidden self-cultivation for seven years.
Buddhists also believe that the Manasarovar, and Laon wrong represent a bright (or positive) and dark (or negative). But between them is not isolated, but the river through a lake communicate with each other. According to legend, once there are two goldfish in Manasarovar, there is a conflict between them carried out a life and death contest. One of a goldfish Zhaojiabuzhu scuttling of a river will flow in Laon wrong. Between the two lakes was considered circulation of pieces of good-luck thing, if the river dried up, break contacts between the two lakes will cause human catastrophe.
Although the two lakes interlinked, it is a freshwater lake Manasarovar, there are many creatures in this reproduction, Ghost Lake Laon wrong is lagoons, salty and even around the lake there is no plant, no cattle and sheep, there will be no vitality, may be because it is considered a ghost lake.
Reached the Trugo goneba foot of the mountain, walking on the Trugo goneba there is still a road, but also mountain climbing. Gesang take a look at the time said to us: "According to our present speed, we should not up to the Trugo goneba windy, and the bar here to rest."
We have been very difficult, where the scenery is not bad, just not as high as Trugo goneba. I hastened to the liberation of tired legs out, put wet shoes and socks on the sun to dry.
Gangrenboqi distant peaks had to go to the lake's central, holy lakes and Kamiyama distant relative, with the very beautiful lakes and mountains. This time this scenery the most appropriate on the grounds of a picnic, and we carry with them to sit down and eat the dry food while enjoying the beautiful scenery, lie down and the sun is also very comfortable to enjoy.
Unfortunately, not much time, and holy lakes began to wind driving us, we started back, and although this is the wind, but the wind is also blowing rickety man, my feet are injured, the pace began to slow, They can not keep up, I let them go first, I was back slowly to keep up with, not worthwhile for all, in this briefing.
One by one they disappear in my sight, if the major holy lakes on the left, I walked slowly a person. Between heaven and earth monastery is surrounded by sights, I was the only one standing on the lake, I can get alone to enjoy the beauty of the moment, there is no one kind of harassment of the quiet, the original feeling is so wonderful.
I have half an hour later they reached the convergence point, brother waving at me from a distance to meet me.
LC asked me: "Do you see the lake shepherd it?"
I said: "Do not say shepherd, I have not seen any animal."
LC said: "It would be surprising, and she and her sudden appearance of the sheep had suddenly disappeared, she had not been us, gone do?"
I said: "Maybe she was coming from the lake gods, but also went back to the lake."
LC waiting for me when on the Gossul goneba, our German friend sent photos of the hands of the monks (see Journey to the West (7) - Zhongdian Songzanlinsi (Yunnan chapter)), far behind the line, we finally do not disgrace entrusted, who could have sent us photos of the hands of monks do?
Our experience reminds me of a pilot foreign universities, which university students from around the world, often returning items motherland, but they are an experiment without any of the mailing services, but it is most likely to bring to to the destination's friends, if this friend's best efforts can not be taken to the destination, he handed his friend continued to relay a pass one, until the goods arrive so far. Results All the items are safe to reach the destination, and the average of one item only after six individual hand, had both ends of the earth as far away as the stranger, the distance between people is only six individuals.
Back to the Wu Temple, saw the laundry yesterday, Shanshan hard like wood, like the rope on the rock and looked very secretive, came closer, clothes become hard and flat, placed on the ground will be able to stand in there less than we have seen more than guffaw: "Shan-shan, you do not use hot spring water, laundry bar, That's a sulfur spring呀!"
We are after a day of tiredness, appetite greatly increased, to the village shop bought meals, canned meat, an open, wow, never seen such a fat meals, canned meat, almost no trace of the lean meat, but you were robbed us a The light, as well as fatty gravy, even eating is not a drop left, I now do not even understand our stomach can bear.
Tonight we eat noodles, which I palm cupboard, usually at home, even if I am also very particular about eating noodles, combined with shrimp, mushrooms, imitated crab meat, soup with eggs, plus a small amount of meat balls, combined with fresh vegetables, a few drops of the sesame oil, a small amount of vinegar, oyster sauce and chili sauce. In fact, as long as the material homogeneous, little effort you can increase the sheer number of grades of noodles, why should the mean itself.
Well, let us return to the reality of it, we are now at an altitude of 4600 meters of Ali, it is obvious that boiling water, but the little hand and go into the burn, to cook the noodles into a long time since all cooking is not open with a pressure cooker cook that I can not skill, time, calling such as paste soup, and so boil the noodles into a paste is also fast, and really big stink, they taste the first time a few of my skills, this time is Millennium Daoxing momentarily mourning. Fortunately, you do not mind, to pasta and meat dishes a naked, at which have to learn to work hard, survival of the fittest呀.
The opposite of a person to see us so good appetite suddenly in Chinese said to us: "You come to travel it?"
In addition we discovered that today is a bunch of Tibetans outside the house there is a stranger, not seen yesterday.
"I am a checkpoint, they call me Lieutenant Liu." Kelsang later, and they chat together, he was wearing a Han loaded civilian clothes, appearance is also a Han Chinese, Tibetan, not imagine that he is right how cattle.
He probably knew that from the Gesang our whereabouts, they told us: "You can also think of Gangrenboqi Mt?"
LC said: "That's right, tomorrow we'll go Dajin Temple."
Liu lieutenant told us: "You better not go, I just was over, Gangrenboqi just under a heavy snow, closing off hills of."
"Ah, when will the next." We are stunned to hear this news, we traveled all the way from Mt Should we must end in failure.
"Yesterday, under this is a great snow."
I asked to: "had stopped snowing it? When will the new Kaifeng?"
"The weather in the mountains is hard to say, but conservative estimates to be the fastest one week."
Force majeure, we must re-examine our trip we had planned to turn lakes 4 days, and now saves 2 days, Suanlaisuanqu, we can only wait for time to increase supply up to 5 days a week to spend time, etc., we really can not afford to consume.
Gesang waiting for our decision, we had to cancel plans to turn mountains, can only use one "There unfortunately is the most memorable," from my consolation.
Gesang said: "can not transfer mountains with you, I regret that, tomorrow we will go through the foot Kamiyama, and will also be able to see Kamiyama's."
It is left here last night, and we and where Tibetans live in harmony, where the kids all day long are the face with a smile, simply do not know why sad things. There is a little girl in a headscarf wrapped candy hundred stars, her mother points to sweets to each child, the little girl is also very generous to the various partners in the candy on the front, we are happily counting the number of sweets, the original moment of happiness is not obtained, but the happiness you can share with others.
Entirely to the lake Manual 1st day to the Hall from the Chiu goneba District (8 hours)
The first two days from the Hall to Seralung goneba (3 hours)
The first 3 days from Seralung goneba to Trugo Gon (7 hours)
The first 4 days from Trugo goneba to Chiu goneba (9 hours)
Chiu goneba to the Hall area is most likely to go, either go in the lake, but also to leave the shore line on the cliff walk. The beginning of the cliff, there are some abandoned caves for centuries been a place for self-cultivation of pilgrims, some of which have now become the civilian housing. Walked about half the time will go through Langbona goneba. From Langbona goneba Hall area on the way to go through a great swamp, we must walk along the north edge of the swamp. This is a good walk, so take a longer time, right when the warm-up, if this section were not beat, early as possible to give up, the following road more difficult, but did not give up halfway because of unreasonable car, we must own to come out.
Hall area is in the vicinity to help heat the center of town, there are a few shops you can buy instant noodles, beer and some necessities. Can live in the local simple guest house, 20 yuan / bed, but to the local armed police barracks accommodation would be better.
From the Hall area to continue along the clockwise turn, heading due south and not go too close from the lake, in the soft swamp walking in the streets two hours later have to pass a bridge, it tries to and then some on is the next one could be a place to live Seralung goneba . The band is soft spun yarn path. This temple are also being reconstructed in the vicinity of a few households, there is no shops and guest houses, have not brought a tent, then had to spend the night in a. Local residents simply did not understand most of the Han words.
Although today is only 3 hours away, take your time to walk into the one you can ease the fatigue of yesterday, a turning point in the next two to reach even 7 hours, half-way did not spend the night in place, unless your tent can withstand cold weather and strong columns of the wind.
There is a way to leave the Seralung goneba car can pass a simple road, but some sections of good to go relatively far away from the lake. Then taken the time to 12 km or so across the Tag Tsangpo River, the original is difficult to walk, now repair the cement bridge.
From Seralung goneba to Trugo goneba 23 kilometers along the lake are mostly fine sandy beaches, walking up and more demanding. But you can comfort is that it can continue to see the clear lake.
The legend on the Kailash Mansarovar Yatra Trugo goneba become a reality. The holy lake and Kamiyama distant relative, standing at a height Trugo goneba enjoy the lakes and mountains, beautiful scenery. Trugo goneba Grubba of this band were the only part of the temple, because it is an important place for the ceremony, held shower is named, Trugo meaning "shampoo." August full moon day of every year, many of Nepal's Terai from Nepal Hindu Brahmin proceed along the trail through the Himalayas here chanting, prayer, and then naked into the icy water is, indeed, admirable. So, can often see some naked guy at a rapid pace toward the lake, and then Ben will come back faster.
Teramae 2 row of houses are available to approximately 40 residential, 30 yuan / bed, condition is not bad. In addition to bed to sleep, the rest all take care of themselves. Temple floating around the lake weeds decay, water should be out very far. Many people living in the Indian pilgrims, barefoot or wear slippers, carrying a stainless steel kegs in the hands and bodies wrapped in some cloth indiscriminately.
This paragraph has to go through a few rivers, snow-capped mountains to the snow melting season yet, the water Qianshen but ankle. If the melt has not better, if to become very rough during the rainy season, and even to the waist, then the only jump into waist-deep water in the bone-chilling cold to pass, no other way.
If the thought of Champlain, and there is a fork in the road from here out to go to Champlain's big road, and then hailed, but there are no cars passing by I will not assure you of.
From the Trugo goneba can be seen from far off shore Gossul goneba arc in the other end of the line, then yes it seems a never-ending, the long gravel roads.
Built on the hill Yashang the Gossul goneba, Temple there are three monks, but not always have been, people are very warm. If anyone to turn lakes, please bring photos of our monks, as we bring the German people's photographs, like, you can be assured of a sumptuous meal Lama.
Terauchi a Zhacang the walls are inlaid with a hundred pieces of stone relief statues. Temple of the top of the platform is an excellent place to enjoy the beauty of the holy lake. From this perspective, Manasarovar like a huge sapphire, fascinating endless. Several nearby cave where there is a lot of pilgrims camp.
Move on is to watch the majestic peaks Iriki Nani (Menmo Nanyi, also known as Gurla Mandata, 7728 m), the best location, the Buddhist goddess of wisdom, Saraswati think that this is the驻锡land. You can look forward to its cheerful took a day, and then arrived before dark Chiu goneba, a hot spa bath, do not use spring water washing, because it is sulfur springs, clothing fibers will be destroyed.
Continued
Author: raycat
