August 7 from 6, no clear go to work, pack up the side of things, while resting. Failed to up late this morning, I do not know why was a little fat is true, may be one reason. Uncertainty still surrounded by people who only think that I am determined to insist on blocking has been scheduled for just bad, but it itself does not determine the next 10 days what will happen. Always felt that go to Tibet had been planned for a long time, even if do not, then perhaps in the future can not no longer go to the (time and mind are inseparable), must give a good account of themselves, which may also be the direct driving force for the bent bar .
Around 11 pm, Wang Lu-xia to phone, warning of its previous go to Tibet has been a friend (male) reacted strongly, and the other boys had been playing a four-day bottle on a string.
13:00 or so, Beijing Qiu to phone, she thought she would go to Sichuan, with the same friends again postponed the trip, asked me to wait for her in Xining (and possibly three boys), This is indeed good news, time permitting, but also with companions, Le Talking!
3 pm or so, things fitted with good food seems a bit more, regardless of the stomach to bear, on the contrary a lot of good mood on the rest when it is a good time then how do we go with it.
Before I left, put on a father to send the Emerald Buddha, never really believed them as if my somewhat nervous, begging for peace bar!
Thursday, August 8 Qingzhuan Yin Xining train from Qingdao to approximately 39 hours, approaches Shandong, Jiangsu, Henan, Shaanxi, Gansu, Qinghai and six provinces, of which there are many historical and cultural city. This is the first time I ride the train for so long, but a person does not seem too excited, just feel out only after I know the narrow vision of the future, if possible, I really should go to the city tour again, with a son.
Along the way does not seem so special. As early as 7 am our car Kaifeng, Zhengzhou to Luoyang after a paragraph, you can see the high loess slope common cave. There are formed by the loess hills, high, straight, it is a bit agitated. Here the main crop to sorghum and sunflower, sunflower like Shandong rape.
17:00, Qiu received a short message sent back, and she completely abandoned the trip to Tibet, and gave me the phone, let me contact the other three boys, Who would have thought it less a phone. I think this is my last spring, all good ideas, but never had the courage taken that step. I do not think about other people in contact on one bar. Imagine the next 10 days, most likely as I am a lone person, I do not know pain is fun.
August 9 has come to wake up on Friday, sunny Lanzhou, at 6 o'clock, and day is also black, but also to sleep.
Yesterday, Lili down the day's rain, as early as today, when entered in Xining city already quite bright, really a good sign.
Down the train, bought a ticket tomorrow afternoon to Golmud, get out of the station, looking for a travel agency to Qinghai Lake and Tar. Size of travel agencies are back to the late back, not willing to give up the beautiful sunrise and sunset in Qinghai Lake and decided to chartered. Beside the railway station there are two, the final choice of the Santana 2000, full 350 yuan, package tickets, drivers pony, Hui people. As we have just opened not far away, he was called advertised, a man wishes to peers, but not to Tar. One person cost-sharing, I am of course happy, then turn around. Also not long after starting, there are a couple to join, so my cost from 350 yuan to 200 yuan.
A few people along the way pretty good, in the Tar trio waited more than an hour. Invited a tour guide, because of time constraints only heard a few explanations hall. In fact, wanted to come back, this is the biggest one regret Xining, and pull the back of the chicken Hill, daotanghe, Riyue than the Tar truly worthy of play areas. It is located in the northeast Qinghai-Tibet Plateau Huangshui River valley in the case of Cameroon Lotus is one of four centers of Tibetan Buddhism, the birthplace of the Gelug Sect master Tsongkhapa guru, but also the Gelug Sect (Yellow Sect), one of six major monasteries , has been 620 years of history. Duixiu (including the three-dimensional Duixiu has been lost), fresco (painting on cloth, it can be several hundred years is not color), butter is the most famous monastery of the Gelug Sect three major characteristics, during which the statues, deities, and paste to 1.5 tons and 35 kilograms of gold the size of the gold tiles hall are worth a visit. (Tar more than 3500 meters above sea level, covers an area of 600 mu, building area of 450,000 square meters, the main building 37, palaces, shag more than 9300, the peak period of more than 3,600 monks.)
Pull the chicken Mountain is 3820 meters above sea level peaks just has not yet been developed, because of the original road to the Qinghai Lake under repair, so now all the lines have changed their pull-peaked hill walking. Uphill, the sense seems to jump out of the heart was not available, and break it for quite a while to recover, this is a reaction to high altitudes.
The way to go Riyue there are many pastoral areas, white sheep, black yak on the green grassland dotted above, and accompanied by stretching of the peak is indeed a beauty, it is looked open, a few will make all your worries and sorrow In this view before the disappearance of nothing. Do not forget, the road must have a taste of the yak herders make their own yogurt, which is in Xining taste of reach.
Riyue people a little disappointed that, this story appears in the holy mountains either side of two low, but only a small mountain, through the middle of a road from man-made construction of the statue of Princess Wen Cheng, stands in between. With the natural scenery here, compared to the open, I do not like it man-made features. But this is only the beginning is the most daotanghe me a wet blanket, and less than 50 cm wide in a small river, a piece of legislation a stone, a letter to "daotanghe" and then built around a very disproportionate number of the railings, making well known attractions of this world, a significant discount.
From daotanghe to the Qinghai Lake on the better way to go. Along the way to see the most prestigious of the Qinghai Lake, golden rape scene in full bloom. Distant sky and sea, white clouds hanging in the horizon, Qinghai Lake placid, quietly waits for the sun a little bit to Yanqu its face. Here sunset late in the evening at 8 o'clock, the sun also like the Mainland, 4,5 points, but 8 pm start to the sunset about 9:30, the sun has a different per-minute changes. Twilight in the Qinghai Lake shrouded in clouds among an accountant in a white orange appeared relieved against fun to drive slowly around the lake before the arrival of tourists would like to race on a horse. A beautiful lake evening scene.
Night, with the same come along with some guests gathered in the Tibetans of the accountant, there are Tibetan girl presented Hada, Xiange danced one dance. Visitors from around the globe together, happily drinking. Tibetans are hospitable, porting plate sang Zhujiu Ge, toast to the guests from afar. I would also venture to try a bit highland barley wine, white wine than in soft cotton in Shandong some, not a small degree, 48 degrees. Tibetan toast a King 3, or drink, or Lord of the net, so it breath drinking three glasses, some more than 12 bar. Not yet felt the beginning of what began on top of faint for a while, and later insisted not live on the first accountant back to sleep (it is 23 o'clock). For savings and safety reasons, I have an elderly couple in the same package that the two accounts of a package. As the drunk reasons, coupled with altitude sickness, and always in a state of half-awake half-confused, Sishuifeishui, not a very good subject. Lie down and soon heard the voice of rain beating accountant crisp (Qinghai Lake seems to have rain every night), when the rain stopped, it seemed a clear call to hear the voice of nature bursts of sound. The dead of night when, in the beautiful Qinghai Lake, but also can not help feeling some people, this is a really isolated also! Repeatedly warned that they can not longer think of the rest is the first one, and in front there is a long way to go. Sad occasion, but still had to give up the idea of this program, really want to now fly back to Qinhuangdao. Partially to sleep, so sleep.
August 10 Saturday, sunny morning and wake up a little bit of small raindrops, health situation is significantly better. Seven more, days, not light, the horizon is still a cloud of accumulation of Lake tents without any static and dynamic, it seems this morning's sunrise is to look not do it. A walk in the lake, there return to the most primitive state of feeling.
After breakfast, a car who hit the road again. The reason may be tired, car quiet, no excitement to the time (the same car last night to drink a lot of boys in Fujian, the morning wake up very late, but still could not find his glasses). Open the phone and saw three messages, a little homesick.
The way it began to fog, the car in the winding road Zuozhuanyouzhuan, like drunk drunk. Along the way had been sleeping, and some motion sickness.
Back to Xining City, bought two boxes of Rhodiola, hoping to help. Then sit down at a small public, think of a look at the Dongguan Mosque, by the way the noodles tasted a bit Xining skin.
At the railway station waiting for a train when the mood was not very good, and today a man outside was nearly four days, to Golmud afraid, worried that the way to Lhasa can find suitable partners. Xining last night with the master of those drivers chatting, they are surprised why I have come alone and suggested that I must Zhaoge Ban. In the waiting room sat a long time, think of all the uncertainty of tomorrow is always some worry that previously had grand ambitions to go if one is not.
August 11 Sunday sunny train to Golmud was 9:26, wake up is 7:30, after wash stand at the windows, he incurs the immediate beauty of living in shock: I finally saw the Gobi Desert in! The embrace of the surrounding mountains, sandy expanse, during which as seen on TV, like clusters of green dotted with a. But that is too small bunches of grass, like the night sky to the stars as tiny. Goes on is the Sand Hills, an even one, between hill and river, the river water mixed with yellow, very small, very small. Today the weather good, distant blue sky, white clouds on top of the hill, as if one could pull down reaching. Hill had been the sand is boundless, in addition to pole is a pole (there are no communication signal), the railway along with the stones, Haystack from the same two mesh tape, presumably to sand prevention, but even so, the train driving obsolete, or to bring waves of the welter of Chen Sha.
Approaching Golmud and saw the famous salt lakes, strong sunlight the following sea and sky merged, Yao was the human eye could not open, really very spectacular.
Out of station, that is, to the opposite bus station and bought the Qinghai 1:00 the same day the ticket sent to Lhasa. When buying tickets, met Zhao from Shenyang to a family of three sisters, and they go into the Qinghai-Tibet Highway in Tibet, then joined the peer, but also each other anaphora.
Qinghai-Tibet highway road conditions reasonably well, mostly asphalt road. Car is quite a new sleeper cars in good condition and relatively clean, much better than imagined (take the Qinghai-Tibet Highway must take a regular sleeper car, outside the Golmud Railway Station there are many private bus, desirable, useful to have heard that of the 55 hours to Lhasa's).
Bus is the 13:30 from Golmud, and two and a half hours later, went to Da Kunlun mountain peak Yuzhu peak, there is snow cover. Around 5 pm, through the Kunlun Pass (elevation 4772 meters), the roadside landmark monument has been destroyed in the most recent earthquake. As the Qinghai-Tibet Highway is currently under maintenance, not very good walk, often to cross to the sidewalk, the melodies of the dust make the driver can not see the road ahead, the narrowest place of a lane capacity of the Qinghai-Tibet railway construction in which the scene can be seen (where there is no altitude sickness, and some middle-aged men may be more a result of oxygen deficiency of oxygen uncomfortable). A good road, the driver can reach speeds of 110 km / hr.
Along the way is a typical Northwest scenery, of people's entire space is open and empty, where you will experience what is Tin Road. Silhouetted against the blue sky, white clouds, pure white skin, and some clouds seem to have been artificially torn a uniform slice, shred all clearly visible. A gust of wind the past, the high slopes of clouds naughty left figure, when the car Padaoshanding as if asking for an encounter it can be. Hill then, most of them by a small cluster of a small cluster of grass dotted up hills, mostly gravel, grass and the color has been yellow, it looks not so bright. Some climbers have been weathered, cracked deep ravines, ruins in general. Land is also the only cover a small and thin grass, and occasionally run by a small stream before, are also soaked the muddy sand bear. Along the way, the human mouth and nose will feel very dry.
Monday, August 12 have been clear from Golmud to Lhasa only 22 hours, meaning that today at noon or afternoon will arrive in Lhasa, but the road traffic jam last night stopped 56 hours, this morning accompanied by another vehicle out of order, repair then spent another hour, so at night to go to Lhasa has been pretty good.
Last night was very bad breaks, car Britain was one headache, and perhaps the reasons for altitude sickness, sleep not at ease. Traffic jam at night lying on the steering wheel when the driver fell asleep on the car may have heard of people going up clear-cut. Was barely dawn, when, I felt a headache too could not sleep, and up until 7:00 to see one. (In the case last night, five beams and Tuotuohe We have been crossed, but also through the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, the second highest point - 5010 meters above sea level the Fenghuoshan mouth.) Eat something felt much better after the first does not big hurt. Only later to save time for the driver, opened the car fast, my head again Britain's pain, on the occasion of spaced Sishuifeishui to a small town, parking for dinner. Temperature difference between the temperature here is too large to get up early when the glass has been closed, the ice, was also wearing a jacket. Stop when the sun came out, the sun is also a strong unparalleled illuminate the human eye could not open, the wind is still cold. Get off a couple of laps to go, feeling comfortable with a lot of head does not hurt, and will have a lot of altitude sickness. The driver came in for dinner went to the car most people, like me, ate some bring their own things. Shenyang, Zhao sister a night there are different degrees of altitude sickness, especially children, without the spirit of the beginning of the first, bringing oxygen pocket of oxygen has been used up, man of the house is busy looking for a place inflatable.
Looking back the past, this night is really remembers the first time in many rare: the first experience so difficult to sleep, so-called bed just over 40 centimeters wide, in order to take care of a sister Zhao, I change them to the upper berth, that is, I , if it is a fat man, stood up and it is very difficult; the first experience in such an awkward toilet, along the way I rarely drink during the day, we look forward to days dark quickly. I think this experience though is not very painful, but this is not everyone can afford.
Start when it began to snow, bright sunshine, which is unique plateau climate.
Unfortunately, not long before began to congested roads of the armed police to prevent any vehicular traffic, and only so. (That Leighton comfortable breakfast so that we paid a six-hour cost.) Looking ahead, the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, the mighty team from the sky well into our front, but behind half of the long queue, this may be a Qinghai-Tibet Railway bar on the unique landscape.
The scenery outside the car quietly, reminiscent of the "vast expanse of the green wild, wind-swept pastures are cattle and sheep," the ancient period (just where the grass if not long enough). Or a blue sky, white clouds, mountains, grasslands, together with a large group of laid-back with grazing yaks, sheep. Quietly on the lawn open a clusters of small yellow, small white flowers, small purple, small blue flowers, and occasionally one or two birds fall between the grass. With the Baa Baa and moo hoot, watching the herd away, personal experience with in this isolated little world, people get emotionally attached to the tranquil beauty of the grasslands, really want this to stay.
Here is a little signal is not, I have "disappeared" day and night, and his family might worry about, but no way. Starting with the four drivers of two cars, in order to kill time, playing poker, this is a good idea to.
In the blocked six hours later, the car finally set off before sunset. More than an hour later, reached the highest point of the Qinghai-Tibet line - Tanggula pass, elevation 5231 meters. Two cars down people take pictures. I seem to some motion sickness, the driver for the rush, he drove too fast, capped with my stomach over and over again, so the car will spit seeds. I think his face was certainly very difficult to see (the later photographs looking out of true, the lips were a little purple).
After a Tanggula, they entered the Tibetan region. Is a late night traffic, but lower than last night to be comfortable.
August 13 Tuesday 8 am clear, after more than 1.1 thousand kilometers long and difficult journey of 44 hours, our sleeper car finally arrived in Lhasa Jinzhu Road bus stop. Zhao, after breaking up with a sister alone on the roadside shop to eat breakfast. (Delicious! A bowl of rice porridge dish, a mushroom dumplings, a small dish of pickled vegetables, very comfortable. May have already adapted to the Sichuanese Lhasa, give them such a breakfast, as in Tibet a few days, we did not find there other types of breakfast.) asked passers-by after the ride 2-way small hotels gather public mind before the Beijing Road to live down, get off there feeling much better, but also back a big bag, as if not enough gas, and also known as a rickshaw to the auspicious day for hostels. Only the standard rooms (standard room in Lhasa seemed especially unpopular, often the last remaining are to it, and other types of rooms is not only inexpensive, more importantly, it is possible to pass a lot of information), can not be reconciled, Also carrying a large bag, I go east and asked the newly-kin, 8 Long learning, and finally found the eight Long Science 25 yuan / day beds. But only a bed, toilet and bathroom facilities, and clothes washing can also be sent free of charge, there are basically living in backpackers, feeling has returned to the same school.
The registration room, encountered a Shanghai person, there is one person alone to Tibet, so together they travel together on a. I first went to the afternoon of the western suburbs of Lhasa, Drepung Monastery and Norbu Lingka. Drepung great, perhaps because few people reasons, I particularly like it calm. The bluest of blue sky and saw a number of abandoned remnants of the temple site in the slightly above subtilis swaying in the autumn, there is a small stream gurgling over. Drepung Monastery currently is home to more than a thousand monks (peak periods of thousands of people), kozo people are very fond of communication with the outside world of people. We went, there were donor alms, monks are being Coqen Hall chanting, but the eyes still can not help secretly Miaoxiang tourists like us (in fact is hardly surprising, they see us as we watch them do). On the second floor, we met a little monk, who came here had been for ten years, Living Buddhas and eminent monks, who is responsible for diet. Shy and passionate manner, he invited us to drink butter tea, eat bread, when we put forward a photo with him, although blushed, but could not conceal the heart happy, and seriously left us with a contact address, so cute monks.
Norbulingka Palace, the Dalai Lama's new, and now has become the Lhasa People's Park. We went to, many Tibetans with food, Xie Quanjia used to come here on holiday every household in a tent set aside their own "territory", a feel comfortable and satisfied. Norbulingka plants are lush, but that is not such a good place to manage the whole one tree woods, plus free set up their stalls, selling food, dirty mess, quite a pity. But here, I saw the opera and a great scene, with a traditional mask.
Back when you want to go to post office to collect the money, will set out on the ticket, but after 5:30 can not be networked, only tomorrow. (Go to Tibet with a more convenient post office, postal cards, Lhasa, Shigatse, Nyingchi and other places have ATM, but pay attention to time. In addition, China Unicom's mobile phone cards used in Tibet is bad, and brought also leucorrhea.)
Perhaps it is because today, the reason has not been a break and return to hotel to feel like a fever, but also do not want to eat, a number of post-processed, and eat in bed of a drug. Can you go to sleep, the body and sick and lonely Ling Ding Full House left one person I really好想home ah, just like that night in the Qinghai Lake, like thought, tomorrow, well, what did not go immediately to buy on the ticket to go home.
Wednesday, August 14 rain yesterday, may be too tired, and slept it feel like to recover the body of (an average of more than 3800 meters above sea level in Lhasa yesterday, walking in the street feel suffocating, today have no problem running), so they Well forget the painful scars and began planning a trip.
Last night it began to rain, not small, that is very gratification, most vividly the rain. Is wearing a raincoat to the Civil Aviation Authority set the ticket to solve the worries (recently the tourist season, tickets difficult to determine, Pat Long school's bulletin board had seen such a post :14-15, from Lhasa to fly anywhere in the ticket all OK. There is another point, from Lhasa to other cities, tickets can not be any off-site ticket in advance, you must Lhasa direct cash purchase).
Tour the Potala Palace, the rain had stopped. Early after the rain Ji, dark red and white Potala Palace, built on a pure intersection relieved against the blue sky seemed to be especially fresh. And peacetime see on television than in front of the Potala Palace, though not as imagined so magnificent and imposing torrential, perhaps because the reasons for zero distance bar. From the west gate tickets, after the mountains, along the route to go down the way workers 22 spots, probably 2-3 hours. Jinding the scenery good, magnificent, wide vision, both overlooking the Lhasa city, but also overlooking the Lhasa River. Drawing on the experience of Tar, we have been with the tour guide in a small group behind the "mooch." Fortunately so, otherwise the visit is to understand their own cloth palace less than a precious wealth of connotation. After visiting the palace cloth, in addition to its construction, I also lamented on its broad and profound connotation. Many artifacts are really nature's intricate, embodies the painstaking efforts and wisdom of the Tibetan people, murals, statues implicated in the legend of a beautiful story, offers to visitors is the endless reverie. I have not been to the Forbidden City, but I believe Palace cloth will not be inferior to the National Palace Museum, as the Tibetan culture, politics, history, the concentration, which deservedly known as one of the treasures of the Chinese nation.
Jokhang Temple architecture and popular if less than half of the cloth palace, but it is a devout Tibetan former supreme place. In front of the Jokhang Monastery, on the ground has been grinding the bare stone. A line of Tibetans do not know how many "five bodies to bid for land" in order to fulfill his promise wishes. The essence of the Jokhang Temple in its main hall, listening to tour guide said that Tibet and reciting There are three routes, one is turning around the Jokhang Temple in the main hall, and the second is a turn around the Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, around the third turn, can be seen Jokhang Temple is located in the status of the hearts of Tibetans. In the main worship Buddha Sakyamuni, as before, and I reverently worship with Tibetan something. I thought of my own diary of that sentence, if one day when I arrived at the Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple, I will kneel before devotion, and perhaps this is also like bar.
Just recently, to go to Tibet, arrived in front of the Potala Palace, or one of my dream, but today, when I walk in the Potala Palace Square, but there should be no share of excitement, calm nature , as treatment of an already familiar with old friends. What is the reason, as do not know why this must get out, and maybe this is just a state of mind question? When I feel the worst, most disappointing of the spirit, it gave me support and gave me sustenance, so in my spiritual world where it is supreme, not replace, is one of my dreams. Today, when I have peace of mind, it also stripped the veil of mystery, no longer so eager to not demanding it? I do not know their dreams come to Tibet, this dream is also the possibility of my life where retention? Do I still have a future life, sustenance and spiritual pillar? Back to reality because I already want nothing, does not matter good or bad, life and death of. (Fill in the evening of 15)
Thursday, August 15 did not keep a diary for two days have been clear, and last night was nearing 12 o'clock pick up exhausted, just a girl roommate Ali just came back over and over again she said the news of a half-day side. Did not fall asleep after lying down for a long time, the total still misses do not forget to remember these two days, some of the experience, heart emergency.
According to yesterday's noon appointment with our Master Jampa, today plans to Nam Co, chartered five people, fare 1,100 yuan, 8:00 departure. Therefore, less than a 7:00 wake up, along with Jiang Rong packing to, on the desk, to the opposite point of a small restaurant to eat breakfast, and so people to come after one, Zhao sister set off.
Beijing along the eastern, central and West, we have embarked on the Qinghai-Tibet Highway. Comes, because the driver in a hurry, and second, the sky black, did not be able to watch the street scene, this time Chen Chin-shih was found that, compared with the previous findings, this is the real beauty of the grasslands.
When hung from Lhasa to the road Yes, master with decades of aircraft is also age-old drivers, combined with yesterday's return tickets had been booked to address the worries, so feel particularly good.
Along the main peak after Nyainqentanglha (elevation over 7000 meters), beautiful scenery so that we have been stopped filming, which is under the past few days I have the fastest film one day.
Turn left into the car from Damxung County winding Road (both sides of the mountains and the Qinghai-Tibet Highway like the mountains not as if has been erased like a bricklayer, straight, Qiao-li), road conditions become difficult. Yakou soon to see the distance lay there silently, Namco. A sad, really worthy of the title is the Sky Lake ah! Lake light blue, and if not for the presence of clouds on the lake really cast doubt on whether it is connected with the heavens. Recently, see, the lake has shown a varying shades of ribbon. Did not expect that, in Tibet, rugged piece of land, as well as the side the Pure Land, I felt a sudden in love with it.
Our teacher was a Tibetan, though not much, but good-hearted, in the base camp on the way to the lake, he kept stopping so that we enjoy to enjoy the prairie landscape. Really, I think this time is the real to the prairie, for the first time with the yak, sheep so close contact with the landscape around them how to shoot film if not finish (although the lessons learned last time in Yunnan, this time brought it out Taiwan Canon cameras, but still feel that the lens is not enough). Roadside grazing of Tibetans, especially the children, to see our running back and forth over parking on the Huchihuchi (which is more than 4800 meters above sea level, but the plateau ah), the first meet in looking at those of us who come from the outside world. When a group photo taken with them, and even a two years old the children are good as gold to put on a variety of positions with, is really very simple people (who have frequent contacts with the outside world Xigaze, Nyingchi region, where ethnic Tibetan children honest character has been somewhat faded into near-commercialization of a conditioned reflex, something they will chase you until you get the hand, even if it is just a sugar).
Namco headquarters arrived at 2 pm when many, and we lived in a lakeside room Xiaoping simple. Eaten dinner, four of them to lie down to rest (including me, but also how some of the reactions, dizziness). I took a chair sitting on the hillside while the sun, admiring the beauty of this rare (only where sunlight is too strong, and I wore a hat, sunglasses, wearing a coat, an inch towards the non-exposed skin). Just looking from a distance of the quiet blue lake, in the midday sunlight, reflecting fresh aquamarine. Clear lake bottom, sparkling like a mild block of jade. Looked to the lake, surrounded by rolling hills, mountains above the clouds is a circle, Namco like a baby, as one by nature Long Space. The world's highest saltwater lake than the beauty of the largest saltwater lake in Qinghai many, it is natural, without carving, like a pure and quiet girl, while the Qinghai Lake has a lot of people infected with color.
At eight, when we return to the lake to see the sunset, the entire lake as a layer of gold plating around the sky like wiping a layer of purple, foreigners have been camped at the lake. Sitting on a rock lake, before the scenery reminds me of the Qingdao Pier. Night down, the moon and the stars more bright, embellished in the dark blue of the sky. Enormous pressure of the surrounding rock, dark and the. Lake of the bonfire has been lit, the Tibetan people have started home-made power generation equipment supply, Namco is celebrating its exciting night of joy. (This time is the best time to walk is said to see the night sky in the Milky Way, very romantic, but unfortunately not been accompanied by a few people are not comfortable and had stayed to sleep early.)
Friday, August 16 Nam Co, Tibetan people, clear mind is a sacred holy lakes, one of the highest point on the road through the mouth is even higher than the Tanggula, so people who come here will have different degrees of altitude sickness. Yesterday, the Shanghai companions on the fell, but also oxygen is glucose drink. Shenyang, a reaction began to increase at 3, hold your breath headache. But I have some dizziness. Lake each person and puppet movements are in general, cautiously. Washed, I still complacent, thinking they will certainly need to go back to show off my place in such a high altitude operation, was able to freely. Can not think of sleep at night, perhaps because of lighting the cause of instability in mind for a while diary, heads began to ache, finally finished adhere to mind quickly lay down on the day of. The Tibet since the late yes, it can be said to go out since the most comfortable sleep a night, although the harsh conditions, some (five of a bungalow, 25 yuan / person, between the bed and the bed with no space to gain a foothold ), so after getting up this morning with a headache has disappeared. Experience through this period of time can be roughly summed up a conclusion of altitude sickness in Tibet, everyone will have, due to the extent appropriate person to eliminate, if only to adapt, the main form of rest, sleep, supplementary glucose (preferably adhere to the drinking), should not be easily oxygen. Now think about it, special thanks to the Qinghai-Tibet highway more than 40 hours of exercise.
Return from the Nam Co has more than nine, drove to Hot Springs Yangbajain looked. Hot Springs is true that much to see steaming hot, kept rolling, the water temperature there is 70 ℃, which is said to soon be cooked eggs. But still that sense of development and utilization of resources is not enough, a very chaotic environment, lack of management, did not fully reflect its value.
Back to 8 Long learning is more than four points, and no 25 yuan / Zhang's bed, and I JIANG Rong lived in a Standard Room. Bathing, laundry, bought some food to prepare tomorrow to Shigatse, GI Bajiao Street to buy some to take home gifts. And Zhao sister set to Shigatse car, accompanied by a boy in Guangzhou QQ. Then on the way to Beijing to eat casually point Chuanchuan Xiang (Chuanchuan Xiang also come from Sichuan, the Tibetan people on the street to eat off the most is the deep-fried potato chips, very thick, sprinkle some chili powder, packed in plastic carrying a bag walking, eating, good incense ah!). Would like to sit opposite the cafe, but if there is no time.
Saturday, August 17 overcast, light snow today, the line is: Lhasa - Yangzhuoyong Lake - Ka Nuoqi Glacier - Gyantse (baiqoi monastery, hundreds of thousands of pagodas) - Shigatse.
Sheep Lake to go to the old State Road 318, starting from Lhasa in about 1 hour, crossed the Brahmaputra bridge, good-bye to the formation of the asphalt road, onto a winding Road. This is, and go to Namco's roads are very different view. Car for duty Bala Pass (elevation 4852 meters), when you see a lake in front of sheep lying there quietly, far from the silver of the snow-capped mountains. Driving along the lake, blue sky, quiet lakes, clouds reflected upside, the lake is the luxuriant grass and yellow, purple, and other kinds of wildflowers. Compared with the Nam Co, sheep and lake more and more popular Aura, though quiet, but not alone, ushered in a calm manner sent to the viewing guests.
Sheep Lake is also the three holy lakes in Tibet, one of the lunch time taste of its specialty - Huang River fish and yellow mushrooms, tastes great.
Ka Nuoqi Glacier Lake from the sheep, the way to Gyantse Quwang must pass. As the recent high temperatures, glaciers have been melting a lot lower. Here more than 4800 meters above sea level, to the glacier at the top is more than 7000 meters, glaciers in the Tibetan people under a lot of selling so-called crystal.
The Quwang Gyangze way, we are lucky enough to see the Tibetans were a grand ceremony for the harvest festival. Men and women dressed in festive costumes, gathered in the square by the respected elderly person down butter tea, after some ceremony, by men and women's team of riders start, and they have to circle around the field, and then began to harvest crops had.
Gyangze baiqoi monastery contains hundreds of thousands of pagodas, is a pagoda in one well-known temples, statues and murals have been 600 years of history. Hundreds of thousands of pagodas are said to have 108 doors, hundreds of thousands of over Buddha statues, 14 level. I do not know why, if I have a great interest in Tibet's monasteries, see the lifelike statues of Buddha sitting quietly inside of the temple, and some colors have now subsided, Fan Chu unique luster of the artifacts, it felt as if the passage of time, even the illusion that it could return to what age of the humanities to understand the accident was.
Zongshan Castle is located in Highlands Gyangze peaks were at risk of, was built in more than a thousand years ago, like a European castle overlooking reproduction, not with Chinese characteristics, has still preserved temples, through the Church, religion, conference rooms and Anti-British fort . Castle has not anger the prestige of natural gas potential, to some extent, feeling even dignified than the cloth palace.
Around 19:00, arrived at Shigatse city, along the way feels pretty good, especially the roads, it is to Tibet to see the best after the asphalt road, from time to time some villagers in the maintenance. Possession of both sides of roads built housing is also different from other areas too, as if to be a lot better off.
Shigatse city, the degree of openness seems to be even higher than that in Lhasa, in particular, its road names and roadside shopping malls, shops, construction and so on, reminds me of Qingdao, in particular, a large poster in some places (thanks to the assistance of the kind of Shandong People's ，日喀则是山东和青岛的援助城市），让我感受不到这是在西藏。晚上，一个人在宾馆周围的小店里要了份酸辣粉，然后溜达着回了宾馆，心情不错。其实有时就象这样，找个并不熟悉的小城，静静地住下，悠闲地逛逛，尝尝小吃，了解一下小城的风土人情，脱离了平日的烦恼，让自己的心灵静一静，也挺舒服的。
8月18日星期日阴，晚有大雨昨天搭伴和我们一起来日喀则的两个小伙子今天一早六点就起床了，他们要搭车去珠峰和樟木口岸。 （昨晚是出来后第一次和男生同睡一间房，好象有点不适应。）
9点多，司机边巴将车停到了扎什伦布寺门口。扎什伦布寺在西藏具有重要的地位，它是历代班禅和一世达赖（扎寺的创始人）的灵塔殿所在，共有五个主要的殿堂，其中有世界上最大的室内佛像。我们还和上次一样，跟在一些导游的后面“揩油”，包括正在为看起来好象某些领导模样的一队人讲解的红衣僧人。藏传佛教其实有太多的东西是我们所渴望了解的。
从日喀则返回拉萨走的是新318国道，比去时条件好多了，四个小时即回到八朗学。又订好明天去林芝的车价（2300元），找好住处后在留言板上留了个帖子就去洗澡了，不久就有广东女孩1人确定，随后2个吉日的女孩加入，共7人，前后不到半小时就搞定了。
没有了心事，就去对面川菜馆叫了砂锅素菜满足一下馋瘾。看时间还早（拉萨这里天黑至少要到九点），又打车去了布宫脚下的药王山看壁画和玛尼堆。的确很庞大，但好象见多了也就不过如此的感觉。回来是步行的，其实拉萨市区不算大，沿着北京路从东到西也就半小时的车程。走到布宫广场时，顺便吃了两串用现从羊腿上切下的羊肉烤的羊肉串，味道鲜美。
8月19日星期一雨雪转晴今天包车去林芝。赵姐一家昨天在宾馆抓老鼠折腾到下半夜3点多，所以出发时就晚了。
车出拉萨不久就开始下雨，越来越大，大约一个多小时后，雨开始变成雪花打在车窗上，让我们很是兴奋，这毕竟是八月份的夏天啊。特别是同行的香港女孩，第一次见到雪，全然不顾淋湿了衣服，不停地下来拍照。天地笼罩在茫茫风雪之中，藏房、牦牛、绵羊全都被白雪覆盖。十点左右，车到了米拉山口（海拔白5200多米）时，雪小多了。随着车前行，眼前的景色渐渐进入了另一个季节：从风雪飘飘的冬季进入了温和湿润的夏季。路旁是浓郁的树林覆盖的高山，伴随着雅鲁藏布江湍急的河水，真的让人怀疑是进入了江南（林芝地区因其草木丰盛、雨量充沛而被称为西藏的江南）。同样是山、水、牛、羊，风光却不同于后藏。云雾在山峰中穿梭，象条白带一样缠绕在山尖，如随人走，江水时而如倩女纤腰，轻巧地穿流而去，时而如粗旷莽汉，一泻而下，溅起雪白浪花。人在画中游走。
到达工布达江县已是下午1点多，吃过午饭后，车向巴松错方向驶去。巴松错又名错高湖，也是西藏著名湖泊之一，湖面海拔3800多米，象香蕉的形状。湖中心的岛上有措宗寺，建于唐代，供奉着藏传佛教宁鲁派（红教）创始人莲花生。到岛上去的方法是最原始的、但却是最环保的：木块钉起的筏子载着客人，顺着两岸已拉好的钢丝一点点的前移，将客人送到对岸。我们到达巴松错的时候刚下过雨，湖面上还升起有一团湿气，湖中小岛在经幡的点缀下静静的立在湖面之上，远处是白云缠绕的高山，一切都那么静谧。
去巴松错要在不到八一镇的地方拐弯，由于刚下完雨，路不是很好走，石头铺成的路面已经松散，有的时候就根本没有路。这时越野车就显示出它特有的威力，我们的丰田4500在边巴师傅的控制下，左拐右拐差不多用了一个小时。回来的路上，山上落下来三块大石头，挡在窄窄的路上，把所有车辆截在了两边，救急队用了三次炸药把石头炸开后才得以通行。司机师傅说，我们的运气不错，如果早来一步就可能被砸着了。
我们去日喀则和林芝的司机都是边巴师傅，一个挺憨厚、皮肤黝黑的藏族小伙儿，话语不多，但很实在，特别愿笑，一路上看到我们兴奋的模样和经常的“大惊小怪”就回头冲我们直笑，笑起来特别的可爱。知道我们很喜爱他的CD，很高兴，在工布达江县，他还买了两盘我们能听得懂的汉语CD，一路上音乐一直伴随着我们。
由于大石头堵路的原因，耽误了一些时间，到达八一镇时已是晚上9点。八一镇真是个让人出乎意料的地方，谁也没想到它的夜晚能如此热闹，路上行人很多，彩灯随处可见，好象比拉萨还要繁华一些。
8月20日星期二阴今晨醒来7：30，睡不着（司机师傅说九点起床就足够），起来吃过最爱吃的菜稀饭后，就顺着八一镇的深圳大道溜达。因为八一镇是广东省援建的，所以它的城市建设也很现代。除个别建筑外，基本上见不到藏式特点，不知道的还以为是到了哪个内地城市。 （在西藏的几个城市里转的最多的是邮局，有特色的纪念品不多，倒是带回来一大堆当地的报纸。）
九点多我们出发了，目的地是世界柏树园林。不幸的是刚出八一镇不久车就被警察扣了，原因是前排违章座了两个人。边巴下车去通融，未果。我们便撺掇车上的两个广东女孩去向交警说情，毕竟八一镇建设有广东人的援助，希望交警能枉开一面。谁知这两人平时叽叽喳喳，到关键时刻都动不了了。最后还是沈阳金大哥出面摆平，照最低限度罚了50元，边巴憋红了的脸终于放松下来。 （不知为什么，这次旅行感觉特不愿和南方人搭伴，先后接触了四个广东人都挺考虑自己的利益。）
柏林距八一镇只有10分钟，拥有世界上年龄最大的巨柏，有2600多年的历史了。园林面积很小，巨柏却很多，基本上都在2000年以上。园内空气清新，幽静，诗歌休闲的好去处，不足是门票太贵，现在是旺季，从原来的5元涨到了10元。
我们在古生态园没有停留，直接返回拉萨。路上，昨天皑皑白雪已经基本融化，只有山顶上均匀地点缀着些白雪，层次分明，象老舍《济南的冬天》里描述的一样。白雪与浓郁的绿色形成了鲜明的色彩和季节对比。途中下车拍照，在过一条小溪时，我的一只脚不幸落水了，所以后来我的脚一直套着塑料袋，照相时也回避了，成为巍巍同志（沈阳赵姐的儿子）一路取笑的对象。为了美丽的景色，我不得不付出一定的代价。
拉萨至林芝的路况非常好，沿途村民的生活看起来也比较富裕，他们已经没有了游牧的习惯，在青山碧水中用石头建起了自己的房子，每家屋顶都有经幡飘扬。在水草肥沃的草原上，还有个别的牧民扎起帐篷放逐牛羊，但数量比后藏的少多了，他们的生活看起来也相对悠闲、轻松的多。
回到拉萨市先洗了澡，接着就急匆匆地去逛八角街。九点多，到了大昭寺前面的白日自助藏餐要了羊排和牛肉包子，味道好极！往回走时，在八角街转迷糊了，11点才回到八朗学。经过大昭寺时，还有若干人在行“五体投地”大礼。
明天就要回去了，与刚来时的不舒服相比，现在的我真的不愿意离开拉萨。和丽江相仿，我认为拉萨也是一个值得小住、细细品味的城市，还有许多没有来得及去感受和触摸的东西，匆匆而来，匆匆而去，多少还是留下些遗憾，只是不知道今后是否有机会再次入藏了。
8月21日星期三晴应该是下午2：40的飞机，早11点到达民航局准备坐大巴时，才知道拉萨贡嘎机场由于天气原因现在已滞留了3000余人，今天飞北京的SZ4111航班要等下午机场方面的消息才能确定是走是停。第一次经历这样的事，心里有点紧张。这次行程基本都按预先计划实现了，到最后了却发生这种事情，据说是贡嘎机场重建后最严重的一次，幸亏安排返程计划时富裕出一天的时间，打算在秦皇岛多住一日，现在看来只有等了。
中午回到八朗学不久就得知航班被取消，具体时间等待通知。 （吕仲短信：莫急，老天留你在圣地稍住。）凭空多出一天的时间，让我又可以去没有去的景点看一看了。吃过午饭，先去八角街买了向往了许久的CD，又坐5路车去了色拉寺，还到小昭寺转了一圈。
色拉寺辩经已结束，有的殿门已关。坐在殿门外的石头地上，与厚厚的红色殿门相对，看寺顶飘扬的经幡和夕阳照耀下的金顶，白云在山后变换不断，偶尔有鸟儿悄然划过，有一种天山鸟飞绝的感觉。
小昭寺据说是松赞干布和文成公主共同为来自尼泊尔的赤尊公主所建，供奉着8岁释迦牟尼金身塑像。不论建筑还是人气，小昭寺与大昭寺相比都相差许多，但它的转经廊非常干净、肃静，也许因为人少的原因吧。
拉萨市内的景点基本圆满了。
8月22日星期四晴昨晚又给民航打了两次电话，得知航班定在今天下午3：40飞。今早不放心，有核实了一遍。十点多，和昨天在民航遇见的北京女孩一起赶到民航大厅，在得到确切答复后，我们准备坐机场大巴了，谁知这一等就是一个多小时。许多的人在排队，最后只有我们和今天的SZ4111的旅客可以上车。离开拉萨时，车上的北京乘客禁不住兴奋地喊出了“再见了，拉萨！”
等2点多赶到机场时，我们才知道情况有多糟糕。整个侯机厅里全是人，黑压压的，上厕所、打开水，干什么都得排队。买机场建设费时，我差点被挤出来。餐饮部的方便面居然卖到了10块钱一碗，好黑！
等机的时候，亲眼见到飞机降落机场时人们兴奋地喊了起来，特别是我们要乘坐的那班飞机在16：40到达时。 17：20，飞机终于从贡嘎机场起飞了，带着些许对拉萨的留恋，更多的还是对回家的期盼。
由于在成都等人，飞机起飞时又晚点了，达到北京机场已经22：45，匆忙中却误把机场运送滞留旅客的大巴当成机场大巴了，幸好司机不错，又把我拉回机场，否则，深更半夜，又在远离市区的荒郊野外，我肯定会担心的。就是这样，当我买了最早回秦皇岛的车票，一个人坐在空旷的候车大厅时，心里还不是滋味。很想家，想儿子，想现在躺在床上美美地睡上一觉。也许我还并不是一个最适宜独行的人。
Postscript
9月1日从西藏回来已经一个多星期了，这次能这么快转换角色，回到现实社会，连我自己都很惊异，也许真的是别无所求了。只是偶尔间静下来的时候，仿佛还能嗅到身边浓浓的酥油味道。所以，我现在才明白，虽然这次行程没有太多的激动和感慨，冥冥中就好象去赴一位老朋友的约会、履行前世已经有了的约定，但是，它在我的心中还是占有了非常重要的地位。我会不断的怀念在纳木错边晒太阳的时光，怀念羊湖的洁身自好，怀念在布达拉宫前行走的那份从容，怀念面对蓝天、白云、高山、金顶、厚厚的红色寺门和微微的秋风时所感触的空旷和苍凉，甚至会梦见留在巴公错中心的小岛。由于时间原因，没有去成珠峰，是这次西藏之行最大的遗憾。还有阿里，特别是古格王朝，图片上深蓝的天空和夕阳下遗址的橘黄色形成了强烈对比，总感觉它在呼唤着我。也许有一天，我还会再次回到那个梦开始的地方，寻找新的寄托。
其实，随着中国的对外开放，西藏这个在大多数人看来充满了原始、野蛮和危险的地方已经得到了充分的发展，虽然还有很多不完善的地方，但是这里人们的行为和意识已经超出了我们的想象。在吸收了大部分现代社会的精华的同时，它还保留着藏民族最淳朴的本色，所以，从某种意义上说，这里是最安全、最文明的社会，这是我对西藏最大的感受。
在青藏线和西藏的各个景点，来自世界各地和国内的游客占了很大比例，而让我另外感触颇深的是，从游客的行为本身可以看出人们思想意识存在着的差距。青岛继而山东一直比较保守，不太愿意接受新鲜事物，因为自己成绩不错，甚至有点小富即安、小富则满的自足。来西藏的以老外和广东、上海等南方地区的游客为主，却很少见到来自山东的。特别是广东人，越是阿里这种苦和险多的地方，越能见到他们的身影。我想，他们在经济建设方面取得的成绩是和他们这种敢于冒险、能够吃苦的精神分不开的。
此次青藏之行也让我深深感受到了亲人和朋友们对我的关爱之情。一路上，除了没有信号的地方，每天都能得到大家的问候，或者电话，或者短信，让我身在异地他乡始终被浓浓的幸福和牵挂围绕着，人生一世，能够如此我已非常满足。
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西藏地区主要景点介绍
布达拉宫布达拉宫是世界上海拔最高的宫殿，始建于公元7世纪，是藏王松赞干布为迎娶文成公主而建，曾毁于8世纪，公元17世纪由五世达赖用3年时间重建，是历代达赖喇嘛的住地和政教合一的中心。主体建筑分白宫和红宫，主楼十三层，高117米，由寝宫、佛殿、灵塔殿、僧舍等组成。
大昭寺大昭寺建于公元7世纪，据说是松赞干布、尼泊尔赤尊公主及文成公主共同兴建。寺门朝西，有面向西天佛地之意。主殿共4层，糅合了汉、藏、印度和尼泊尔的建筑特色，更实现了佛教的曼陀罗式宇宙观，以中央的大经堂为中心，象征宇宙的核心。释迦牟尼佛殿是全寺的精华所在，供奉着文成公主陪嫁的释迦牟尼十二岁金身坐像。
哲蚌寺哲蚌寺是拉萨著名的三大寺之一，也是黄教六大寺院中规模最大的一所，号称全世界最大的佛寺，坐落于拉萨市西郊约十公里的根培乌孜山坡上，是黄教创始人宗喀巴大师的弟子绛央曲杰在1416年创建的。寺内主要经殿有6个（甘丹颇章、措钦大殿、，密宗院、洛赛林院、郭芒院、德阳院）。每年的“雪顿节”是哲蚌寺最热闹的日子，这里的晒大佛已经成为西藏最大的宗教活动之一。
色拉寺拉萨三大寺之一，黄教六大寺院之一，位于拉萨市北面的色拉乌孜山下，由宗喀巴的弟子释迦益西在1419年创建，曾是西藏的“少林寺”。
罗布林卡罗布林卡（意为宝贝园林）是历代达赖喇嘛的夏宫，建于18世纪中叶，分为东面的罗布林卡和西面的金色林卡，占地三十六万平方米，主要由三座宫殿（格桑颇章、金色颇章、达丹明久颇章）组成。
白居寺江孜白居寺于1414年由法王热丹贡桑和一世班禅共同创建，寺塔合一，吉祥多门塔是藏传佛教塔之一，高42.4米，有14层，108个门，据说殿内雕塑和壁画佛像有十万尊之多。
扎什伦布寺黄教六大寺院之一（在后藏的最大寺庙），由格鲁派创始人宗喀巴的弟子一世达赖根敦珠巴1447年创建，后成为历代班禅的寓居之所，主体建筑有措钦大殿（供有世界上最大的室内佛）、五至九世班禅灵塔殿、十世班禅灵塔殿、四世班禅灵塔殿、一世达赖灵塔殿。
未去之地：
拉萨：直贡寺天葬山南：雍布拉康、桑耶寺阿里：玛旁雍措、刚仁波齐峰、古格王国、札达土林日喀则：珠穆朗玛峰、萨迦寺、绒布寺林芝：南迦巴瓦峰、雅鲁藏布江大峡谷、喇嘛岭寺、鲁朗林海
作者：qdlk
