Let Tibet skim the body -7
2002,09,01 ascetic monks
1, hastily passed Yamdrok Lake
Head of the village's eldest son, white, Basang Rinzin Namgyal school today. Schools Nagarze direction, away from white, to the village there are 10 km, we have decided to let the Young Master to send to school after a small Namgyai hurry.
Although is the primary school, has begun to live on campus in a small Namgyai. Prior to departure, her mother inside the large bag filled with dry food for small Namgyal. School for small pieces of Namgyal is a very happy thing, because he is a member of the class learning, academic performance is quite good.
Young chefs have just got into a small Namgyai car, a small village inside know the other children were also Namgyal have squeezed into the car. Fukang car installed a full six children, two adults; although I also want to go to the schools of small Namgyal, but the car did not have completely inside that can be squeezed under the space.
In the Fukang car had gone white, the other village children to only ride the big trucks to school crossing reported. The city's children may never have imagined not come out: Here the children go to school reports, but still determined to "carry the big car."
Was officially launched not long after, we climbed the gambara Yamaguchi.
Looking back overlooking the Yamzhog legendary beautiful scenery, and does not appear in front of us. Some of gloomy skies, gray clouds covered the sun, making Yamdrok Lake surface does not show up enough blue.
Trip, whether it is beautiful scenery, or the way of fortune, often not for us to say goes. The beautiful scenery needs the generous gift of God, but retained in the memory of those encounters, not only require luck, but also that they can be open, so that plain, prepared.
We had a bit of melancholy to continue their progress.
In the Sakya, Fukang car chassis pipeline just done a deal with a simple dressing, and we had to walk the Brahmaputra Bridge, to Qüxü County to see if can completely repaired.
Qüxü County Fukang cars for the same pipeline powerless; hastily eaten lunch, we went back again, walked the Brahmaputra Bridge, continue east to rush nedong.
2, Yumbulagang
Shannan is, by definition, that is, Gandise Mountain and Nyainqentanglha Mountains south.
Shannan there are many important cultural landscape: Tibet's first palace Yumbulagang, Tibet's first Buddhist temple Changzhu Si, Tibet, built the first temple treasures evil Samye Monastery, etc.; Therefore, in Shannan, this should not begrudge the time.
Zetang starting from the south out of town soon, you can see the mountains above Yumbulagang Tashi the next day.
Yumbulagang is the first generation of the Tubo king of the underworld palace built up until the 33rd generation of ZAP Songtsan before moving the capital Lhasa, has been the ancient Tibetan Tsenpo Yumbulagang of the palace.
Take it for granted that Yumbulagang should be a very worthwhile visit, as a result, when told of that point on the opposite hilltop building is Yumbulagang, I felt the feeling was take the lead poured poured cold water: Yong cloth Lacan's building a very limited scale, only a few houses to stand alone in the hills.
Think before Songtsan Zao has enough dowdy, it's that point of construction sites, not so much supremacy over all, might as well be said that Sung corner.
3, ferry Brahmaputra
Sang Ye is crossing from the east arrived to Samye must first ferry over the Brahmaputra.
Ferry actually does not have a visitor, a few wooden boats gather at the shore, rather point "Nowata unmanned boat from the horizontal" flavor of the desolation; boatman leisurely sitting on the steps of the shore, there is no one in a puff, cigarette butts flickering.
Boatman The final price is 90 yuan charter boat crossing the river, there is no room for negotiation of the. We had to board.
This time to a few of the Tibetans but also crossing the river, boatman said: you charter, their ferry money collected by your own.
They take the camera, but also tourists; so koko symbolic tell them, each triple a low price.
Across the river for an hour. After landing, watching the people we have to Favorites ferry fees, boatman rage. Boatman mean, Tibetan ferry is free.
Boatmen's bad attitude does not matter we have decided to promote the original non-subscription is not.
Things do not end, the shore is only a broken jeep; boatmen and drivers Jijigugu for a long time - the result is the same person as long as the ship's five Tibetans, while the three of us but is a 90 yuan!
I do not like the taste of a very full commercialization of the difference, resolutely on her own line of bags, ready to walk.
The driver finally made concessions: three 30.
Sat in the car could not help but sigh a sigh of relief: The commercial tastes change, the more contaminated areas, where people have lost more honest character.
4, that is, when the black-white
Samye the door just to see, I liked this old lamasery. Helpless sky was dark, and only live down the pictures to visit tomorrow.
Samye Monastery built himself a hotel, although they are still Tibetan-style building, on the temple next to the number of abrupt or a bit far-fetched. Had mixed feelings: In China, there are too many spots as much as possible the rational development needs can not be aggressive to any unauthorized construction of housing, be applied mechanically; are already too many ancient by blind unthinking complete the "development" of the fragmented get!
Ancient Chinese seal carving is basically a composition theory can guide the cultural and natural landscape surrounding how to construct the new building, which is "white as black."
The so-called "white as black" is a quality seal, cover the pattern on paper its configuration should be very reasonable: if the YIN-yang view of the text as a background, design is complete; the other hand, if the Yang-wen as a background look at Engrave, pattern is still incomplete; the yang, and with text and Engrave of view, two sides to work together, complement each other.
But now, we are developing too many new landscape structures, have only the same two themes: the destruction and abrupt.
5, river silent
Gao Ding residence, chew a few mouthfuls of hard tack be perfunctory at the dinner.
Samye Monastery is also open the door, we decided to stroll into a walk.
Samye central building complex layout very complete: the wall surrounding the temple inside the ground floor in the corridor formed by turning the second floor is the lamas of the quarters; the central enclosure is boxy Wuzi hall. Wuzi hall from top to bottom respectively, followed the Tianzhu, Han, Tibetan Buddhist temple architectural styles, and can be described as unique.
Hall was inaccessible, from the corner of the wall board on the second floor, twisted my then onto the roof, saw a young lama in flowers, plants on the roof.
koko struck up a conversation came up, and talk a few words, the young lama smiled and invited us to his room sit.
koko this form of tourism is what I appreciate - that there should be more exchanges and the local people. I sympathize with those who participated in tours of the ducks are: they listen to guided tours landscape, and then line up at the designated tour guide we all must be placed where the death of a flutter as usual, put 11 on the go again; and then guided to press the sound of hastily got into buses, to review the same procedure the next one ......
They spent a lot of money, but only looked at a fixed point of the scenery. This touched the tourist way to make it difficult for them to understand local customs, put it plainly, it is a completely wrapped in a bag inside the tourist.
We must open our own, and the people waiting for the opening of the destination.
Rinzin took us to his quarters - room is small, but very clean: can sleep two to sit on the bedding enclosure of a small square table; two carving complicated, colorful typical Tibetan clothes closet ; closet, lay a thick pile of wrapped in yellow cloth scripture. The room quiet and simple.
The young lama named Rinzin busy for what we do butter tea, take snacks. koko still insist, must not consume the Tibetans need to go to market before they can buy back what we drink Rinzin of butter tea.
koko's many problems, Rinzin patient 11 pop star:
In addition to rooms are available outside the temple, the rest of the furniture is brought inside their own from home or bought; temple every month to give him such a lama 20-30 yuan cost of living.
Rinzin Lama was little to do, because he believe in Padmasambhava master's saying: ascetic afterlife is a man of the monks, the lay person to go through a long cycle of life and death with the species. - Now Jen has already been done by the monks of eleven years.
Sometimes Rinzin also want to home, but leave in the Samye Monastery is difficult to go through, and through the division's first approval before they can while away from the temple.
When a small lamas, scripture is to be back in good hitting and scolding by the teacher; some small monks than Rinzin poverty, so that they have put Rinzin memorize all the scriptures given to them.
Not all monks are chanting, Rinzin said that now the people of Taiwan believe in a lot of people in Tibetan Buddhism, Tibet, some monks ran past; a lot of the people of Taiwan to donate a result, some monks went off Sengyi Chihepiaodu.
There are a number of monks insist on do not go on, it will return to secular life.
"Subsequently, we wanted to return to secular life of the monks how to do?" Koko asked.
Rinzin answer is that he did not let the monks, because the Tibetan lama temples often have high-level meetings with each other, return to secular life of the monks will be notified each other's names. - There are a lot of alms to monks in Lhasa, there are many false purpose is get money; only a small part of the real Lama is to repair the temple, and then only to go out alms金身plastic statues of.
See out Rinzin is a pious ascetic monks.
I asked Yan Zeng: cabinet on the thick pile of scriptures which you are back down it?
Yan Zeng smiled: I have not seen, do not dare.
Why?
Jen by A, which by the time the book was among the early co-written by the seven monks, they are a Ph.D. in Tibetan Buddhism. Discussion of Buddhist monks 7 day and night, seven people all think this is a good scripture before sentence can be written into the set of the classics into verse. So this sutra be called every word Abas great wisdom. When the Cultural Revolution, this one of the few original scriptures in this respect was almost trashed. There is a Tibetan possession of a set of the Cultural Revolution, when buried in their own room inside, was able to survive. Jen by almost daily to this Tibetan guest house, to bring them a lot of things, the Tibetan people have been touched by Rinzin dedication and ultimately to bring this through the book gave Rinzin. Now in the whole of Tibet, original set of classics have been very difficult to find.
So precious, why not look at it?
Rinzin a very pious expression changes: The classics of the texts have the magic powers of evil intents of people will see will become blind eye injury; revised reading for the monks will not be enough endless headaches. Feel that their attainments far worse, so do not dare. As they did so on their own are eligible to retreat when the reflective turn to recite.
The strong flavor of words could not help but we are not moving and upset.
"When will you be considered eligible for closed-door then?" I asked.
Rinzin subconsciously looked back out of the window a small distance Hall: I do not know, but I'm looking forward to one day be eligible for retreat. Lama now mixed, the real monks are mostly to the retreat after three years of March 3, so many of the real Instead, head monk haunted pale hair, it is because three out of the room can not be March 3 reasons.
"When I saw that little semi-circular window of the house it?" Rinzin said that the house which now have 24 monks at the retreat penance, they have more than six months of the retreat; monks to deliver meals every day. They read the classics on the inside, and many monks regard the hair wrapped around the rafters.
This passage is very penetrating, the real Zhitou chest.
Three years, March 3! - I could not help but ask this sentence: When there is no retreat lamas problem it?
"Yes." Rinzin reduce the sound, there are mad, and still dead inside; because less than three years March 3, who is also not allowed to come out - even if their parents died, nor can one day out of customs .
Jen looked at by a firm when talking about closed-door full of eager eyes could not help but awe.
Rinzin once again to express his contempt for the ignorant and incompetent monks: Now the monks too much rhetoric, in fact, very few real monks words. We should know that when the stream is always buzzing sound of flowing, Brahmaputra silence.
This sentence can be said to resounding hit heavily in my mind.
Walked like me who write, are buzzing sound of the brook; along the way felt like a little rain, and we have suddenly dried up streams of water, stream miles it is a rare crash; so many come Tibet's people, have their own deep shallow experience, with numerous gently the story of their own, but most people, they are silent; they face calm, quiet office in the digestion and the weight of their different taste and spiritual food to become his own body and soul.
I wish the Rinzin ascetic monk can become a generation - precisely why there is such a persistent Rinzin pious monks of Tibetan Buddhism that makes a lasting maintains the original flavor Zi. As long as they stand before us, we will believe: In this piece of snow-covered plateaus, a group of people, their hearts had an unwavering faith.
Middle of the night by colleagues farewell.
Rinzin out of quarters, it was found Samye already locked the door. An enthusiastic little big Lama Lama called deacons to help us open Terakado ......
Non-Ichiro 2002,09,27 in Shigatse
Author: fylfeimi
