3 About Tibet
1, runs almost every morning went to the museum the last years of noodles to eat lunch, I also bought a few farms Liu Dadao with cucumber, prepared to eat the Qinghai-Tibet road. To the bus tickets, parking place inside first looked Driving Status, are not what is good car. Back to the ticket window, 3 points more than the votes the last few left, and press down the numbers should be in rear projection, but Chase shop. I did not buy because they know at the back will be very Britain, but also covered the event pass the boy lying in a whole body odor, it is not any good. Anyway, not at all anxious at this hour, she bought a ticket 4 points is a front upper berth.
Bought a ticket, I wonder whether a possible altitude sickness should be prepared to do something, although I have not felt any discomfort. Went to the station side of the shop, decided to buy a bottle of pills Rhodiola, anyway, is very small, not of space. Oxygen hesitated for a long time, decided not to buy, because the driver said the vehicle back to Golmud, and provided they are not sick, young man like me no problem, but will only increase the body's dependence on oxygen.
Approaching 4:00, and the results of 3 points over the car not to go, because no full. A sudden wave of people came in, and finally the 3 o'clock to buy tickets over, began loading luggage. 4:00, that vehicle away. I sighed with frustration and so on. Station Square also parked a big customer, probably a private running of Qinghai-Tibet line. Body of the car better than the public sector and canvassing activities were sleeping, said: "Come on, take our car, get on the train and left." Downright genius believe what car is not a plug like a canned food like it to go. 4:30, we started loading baggage car, and a driver on the roof watching the passengers released package, wrapped in waterproof cloth Bangsheng the last child, and the other driver is responsible for check-in the following. My bag is not large, the driver has not insisted that I put the roof, just say not allowed to account for passage. Behind a guy carrying a big bag but also a long walk to the car inside, the driver was immediately snapped. I saw them, is actually dig in Xining is a wallet that old broad! That put the matter away and is still a long tripod to mention in his hand.
Luggage Zhuang Wan, and the driver who first pulled a car swinging in the city, saying it was to be acquired any Lutiao, and then have to go to any gas station, my mind Anma: × your mother, and as early as why. To 5:00, and finally onto highway. My shop aisle, window is a fellow in Anhui, a line three individuals, two companions on the other side of the aisle, evidently like to work for. Anhui villagers remove their shoes upper berth, a surge of odor pass over. Fortunately, since the days of heat, the car windows are open. Anhui fellow also has a good appetite, from the car began to eat dessert first kind of dye-doped ice, then watermelon, do not eat the melon with a dirty She Pidai a wrap and placed before the heel. Then proceeded to eat peanuts. Also warmly said to me: "Folks, you have come to point?"
2, the Qinghai-Tibet Qinghai-Tibet Highway on the road is better than I imagined, not too dangerous, the driver was also more open sound, and is climbing slowly like a ox-cart, no way, P = F × V. Night eight or nine minutes, to a place to eat dinner. Long-distance truck drivers in general have their own fixed-point to eat at, a restaurateur, the God of Wealth on the drivers very polite, tea and meals free of charge, so that helped folks to the tank water, take the time to return the packet of cigarettes. I do not eat rice in the Sichuan Museum cooking, but rather to the side of the Tibetan Guanzi Li asked for a bowl of mutton soup, solid, and warming up, although expensive is also quite expensive. Hiroya old with me to eat.
Night, cold weather, and the windows are closed and the taste is not a very good car smell, but not so, although during the day there have been suspected of car quilt taste desperately to tread soles of your feet, now it is quilt wrapped the body from cold. Head a little pain, may be a high degree of will come up. Tian Kuailiang the time seemed to feel the first pain, the body was cold, his eyes seemed to see the snow outside the mountains have snow, but the daze of sleep passed. Wake up to ask the driver that has passed the Tanggula pass, that is, Tian Kuailiang of that would be before. I am a little regret that the legendary Tanggula pass to the dead is even gone to sleep, I drowsily, really.
Chewing a gum brush their teeth the operator. Outside landscape began to get better, I insisted that the villagers in Anhui to open the window a slit, although some cold wind, but the air is very fresh. To 11 am, stopping to eat breakfast or lunch meal I do not know. Afternoon Amdo Nagqu area, more and more good scenery, blue sky, green grass everywhere, horse racing festival is necessary to the opening of flag poles and tents are all take up. But probably because of high up, and the car people have different levels of response. Anhui fellow cough a Koutan eyes closed does not live like a death; night driving holiday of the drivers are now complaining about knee pain each up all, headaches, not bad mouthful genitals; have a woman, the last night on the disease YY appearance, which will begin to vomit. My head is also more severe pain, and jump hop, and probably a point with the wind blowing the morning, a little bit stuffy nose, and tears. This way, I thought Alice to eat pieces of Rhodiola and silver.
3, Bypass Lin Zhou night when hung, feel better o'clock. The driver to stop eating. We look at cars, have to go first to the local convenience. Men generally have little to go on the solution of two-step pull-pants guy. Suddenly one of the Tibetan and Chinese roots shawl flew over rebuked our group, indicating the poor people go to his designated toilet. He has a grasp of a brother of bin, indicating that he pay a money. I had just fastened guy pull, but also hastened to plug back, filled with slow, to the designated toilet look like if nothing had happened to go. Out asking for a handout when the Tibetan and Chinese, I pretended to understand market, to the 5 Zhang Mao, Tibetan and Chinese a stare, I quickly handed another 5 hair in the past.
Drivers because the vehicles, still slowly with the rice, we passengers are big have been finished, and 3322's come out smoking chat. Suddenly, the weather changed dramatically crackling began to rain. He holds things because someone on the roof, and waterproof cloth tied at not being opened wind, watching the rain fall on luggage on the big stars, the old Canton called up. Driver complain that the sentence Who's your solution of string, and then you want to go up but did not move, said: "The rain is not, over will be stopped by." We Duohui store the results with a few lightning several more Meng Lei, the rain stopped without any meaning, but were becoming larger. Old Canton anxious heart attacks, I thought to myself: This is how such a brother back! Drill into the car then the rain took my poncho to him. Old Canton curse of the two wear poncho to climb the roof to take care of his backpack.
Drivers eat a meal in no hurry to walk, to the Sichuan Yangbajing way the boss asked to let go at night. After listening to a half-day know that Yangbajain in the roads, do not give off car, go to make a detour to go to Lhasa, Lin Zhou, Lin Zhou drivers not want to go, because the road they are far from Britain. Shop owner said that he and the person in front of the checkpoint cooked, gather the number of cars, so that inspectors can give money secretly put in the past, but have to wait until later. So and so on. Inspectors to ask why there is not walking, the driver said the passengers has not come yet. In fact, we have been in the shop on the nest.
Wait until the middle of the night the boss to tell or not to go, the driver angrily cursed, and then take the forest weeks. Britain also had a night to at 8:30 on the 27th finally arrived in Lhasa.
4, as early as An Lasa naturally out of the car and the old with the broad walk along the Jinzhu Road, Lhasa, this array still early days, no one on the road. To the opening of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway Monument, I would like to take a picture, the old-Canton said that light is not good, I think he quite牛逼back of the photographic equipment, they believed in him, and the result after the surprise would have no chance to give a photo of.
I told the old Long-kwong, said eight prestigious hotel school, intends to live there, the old broad has no opinion because of his documents are lost and the situation in Lhasa is not very clear. We both asked clear the path, tired, spent four to eight Lang rickshaw ride school entrance. Attendants said that 30 of the two rooms did not, and will depend on whether someone such as check-out, and now only six humans, 25. I feel unhappy, because only a thin 5 money has lost a notch. But first, Why do not put her identity card registration, the old Canton took a big books, as if the certificate is a title something like that he had other documents are lost. Attendants also said nothing.
Into the room and then the old broad he took out his wet things to dry 11. When I was backpack Shique moved in mind. Because the information before the visit said the Tibetan people to see a little small gifts for a guest host will be very happy, so a few special areas of the scarf, not a good thing, but there are southern characteristics, is not the money to come by. Then handed over to the desk to go to a Tibetan aggui bribery. Attendants Adji quite honest, and turned red, and I have repeatedly said that it is not a precious thing, it means nothing, that is, first met I wish her good luck. She had finally accept it. After I showered through the yard, she stopped I took a between the two keys to me, I am quite happy to fill Jiaoliao Qian, re-opened the ticket.
5, parting clutch bathed Huanleyifu, I have no feeling of discomfort, even after Zaimo Rhodiola eaten. Put dirty clothes to the laundry room for free starched, I came to the lobby of the comments posted at a careful look at the note. Read the note, received a lot about the car rental and travel route information, and my heart want to go to Ali's idea is not to contain a growing. There Chang to Ali's note caught my attention, I record their mobile phone number. Then casually ask a girl you like to see posted do not want to go to Ali. Niu Guotou girl said: "I want to go, but not enough time, yes, upstairs there are two in Guangdong to the girls, who intended to go." I asked a room number talk to them, are two sophomores, and foreign language, a man named Xiao-fan, a man named Xiao-wen. They carry your cell phone, I then asked them to contact me remember that under the number. The other is the South China University, the men Jiao Ebin, woman called the Little Czech Republic, living in the eight auspicious Long school next to the hotel, make an appointment to meet you go into the details. I thought to myself quite lucky, and click on the make up 5 personal, just a Toyota.
Small Czech and I graduated the same year, first working at the institute, but also to return to school, is a carefully capable girl. Abin what she called the Line of Duty, obviously there is something between the two stories. We are five people get together and clear the road, equipment, cost and other issues. But because the small Czech trip was a sudden decision to urge Ebin, border card did not have time to do, to coincide with Daqing, Lhasa Accreditation begin to control, so when you find a way in the car rental or the local drivers in Lhasa, Shigatse resolved. However, the problem is not simple.
We have talked about three cars, but ultimately failed to take place. The first vehicle was unable to Gaoding border card. The second car asking price is too high. A third car required 80 percent down payment, Abin flatly refused, because too risky. Later, Xiao-Wen and Xiao-fan of the border passes are also a problem, the above write-only area of Shigatse, as Daqing very strict during the verification is said to have a personal two days before the permit is so written in the border, and the result has been blocked back. During this period, as well as another Jiaoa Hui, Ms. Lilly also plans to join a trip to Ali. To 29, having met many car owners and drivers, I finally had a price on a good fit, cycling and running experience of Ali in Shigatse Gaoding border cards car. At noon, I went to read the car excitedly the back room, only to find Xiaowen, and Xiao-fan on my door left a month of that to Ali, to dispel the idea, and intend to first went to Shigatse, if you are lucky go Everest, if they are blocked on the back. I hastened to play Abin phone, he said it was because of several cars are not into talking about he and his masters could not be separated in order not to waste our time and they gave up Ali plans, and people had an appointment to Namco. Ms. Lilly has also changed my mind, intended to take a group of people over two days and a new line of non-return to Lhasa in Tibet. Fred can not find the phone unreasonable, and then I ran with another group of people.
My excitement has disappeared, like a deflated balloon called to tell the driver sorry not allowed entry. Spent three days in Lhasa, the old broad who has already had the same to Shigatse. In addition to Ms. Lily and I, and Qu Letang Drepung Monastery, the rest of the time linked the whole trip to Ali, but the end, all efforts bathing, Ali can only be a dream. I feel very bad.
6, an enchanting afternoon, I sat dejected hotel register before the auspicious day on the steps, just found Fred had a check-out. I find it very Wohuo can imagine how angry whom have any sense. We encounter and binding between the liquids have been wandering like atomic groups in the change at any time. Even I can not be said to find another playmate to join others, and even the idea of changing the predetermined routes, but also there is no final implementation of Bale.
If I have enough money, I can rent a car to Ali himself, I have all these? No. If I were to do the border card, I can handle a small Czech Republic, Xiao-fan, and Xiaowen issues. I is not it? Not. If there is a group of people planning to go to Ali, and there is no border card issue, I may be able to join them. There is such a group of people? Others.
I sat depressed cheek dragged before the auspicious day when the first-order, there was a red T-shirt, jj, and a not tall brother out of the auspicious day, strangely enough, gave me one. According to later descriptions, I was a Ku Gualian. After a while, when they looked at me once again into the auspicious day is still sitting there, I finally asked the one with hope: "You go to Ali? I rent a good car can not find a playmate." "Are you a person?" "Ah, the original certificate that there is a good playmate border problems are not gone." "How you intend to take the road?" I immediately pulled out a map, on the ground and put their discussions before and A Bin line said again. "Line is almost, but we have five individuals, and car rental are also good, and tomorrow, to go." I hope once again disappointed, but also not willing to question the sentence: "Can you add me?." The two pairs of eyes met one, in red, jj said: "We have to discuss with other people." 2 housing.
Although you have now from the subtitle of this section and the ruffian type of sentence Tsai guess the ending, but I was excited and was disturbed in the yard waiting for the verdict. A few minutes later, red jj upstairs beck and call me up. Room, there are 2 mm and a fat man I have not seen. That looks a bit like Sammi Cheng's mm read my card after the fat man the border, said: "He's still more than our standards." I can not help asking: "how, okay ah?" The Fat Man patted me on the shoulder and said: "Do not suffer her face, and eldest sister are all agreed, what else should we say, noon tomorrow, let's go together." Then just discuss some of the details, I will immediately return to school for eight Lang will begin tomorrow to prepare for the journey.
7, starting with a moisture-proof pad before although I may be in order to cope with the harsh conditions that may be encountered Everest, I determined to buy second-hand sleeping bag section. Encounter a selling watermelons on the street, which in Tibet, but a rare luxury, I decided to buy one to mark the occasion. Lang College at the eight yard run into Hong Kong to the ppmm Xiao Huang, the former two days she looked to see me with a worried frown total comfort me, and entrusted her Yoshikoto, today I can smile a. So tell her the good news and that she and the female companion to my room with eating watermelon. They invited me to the left, at night, where they play.
To live next to me, Ms. Lily back, I told her I have to leave tomorrow, but she worried, because that group of walk-Tibet line, people have changed, she wished to tell me is gone, unfortunately too late. Sun goes down, it began to rain. Ms. Lily wants me to accompany her around the hotel to see a note, because I have on the surrounding is very familiar. Although I play fast and loose some of her dissatisfaction, but after all we have is a fellow and played with the Drepung Monastery, also could not bear to refuse. Turn full circle there is no valuable information had to learn the restaurant eight Lang dinner. Have been quite late, there is a group of people in the restaurant was no one to talk so much about metaphysical things, I washed her laugh, her back one, but the mood varied. Finally I do not know because of the less frequently backed out of my intention, or because I ended old resentments towards the aid, she insisted to pay for.
Back to the room was already very late, did not intend to go there, Xiao Huang, can be found when they walk into the afternoon to buy packages of stuff thrown in my room, and decided to go a trip. Xiao Huang is the Hong Kong University law student, long a pair of clever big eyes. They played two people get in Xinjiang, Tibet and then to walk a new line of cross-boundary Alexander Ngari pull through and finally to Lhasa. Xinjiang, like Tibet from Golmud in search of so strict, why they are eliminating the need for Hong Kong and Macao compatriots and foreigners in Tibet troubles procedures. Heard the two girls talked about the profession Alexander pull all kinds of feelings and experiences along the way, I also really admire them a bit. Before I left to stay e-mail when Xiao Huang raise their cameras to me, "clicks" of the bulk of a silly photo.
The next day I packed properly retire a room, to the post office took the money, according to yesterday's agreement came auspicious day. In the yard parked a white Toyota, 62, and this is our "Land Cruiser" the. Jj red car is introduced by an acquaintance of rent, the better in terms of their 5 per person per 3,000, as the temporary addition of I, the owner asked each plus 500. Even if the price lower than market conditions. I have spoken about the car price 4000 model is even worse than this, travel agents, even higher. I will pay 2000 to the responsible management accounts Sammi Cheng mm, the money, including equal shares per person pre-paid fares and have purchased supplies and equipment. The cost of the road she was a lump sum first be shared among everyone. Came back to pay the remaining fare knot general ledger.
Because the more a person to do the back seat or vertical, everyone's backpack and some supplies are placed in the roof luggage rack, in order to prevent rain specially bought plastic sheeting and rope. Bottles and luggage, everyone in the photo the door after the auspicious day, he drove out of the door auspicious day, we hit the road. Time is July 30, 12:45.
8, a woman and two men now talk about that we had six people with cars. Of time with us less than a month could be because along the way with eating, sleeping, peer, and the special experience of riding out the storm, making us the true feelings with each other and in-depth far in excess of the case under normal circumstances.
Red jj from Tianjin, is the oldest one. She did not like me to call her eldest sister, saying that it sounds like a revolutionary pioneer. But I think the eldest sister is a term used not only to express my due respect to her, but also reveals a cordial way north. This intimacy is partly because of my trip to a large extent is due to the big sister, but also because big sister has some rarely seen in this age of the Mind, which is a wife and mother has already been done and can not enjoy the school holidays for women to that it is very difficult to come by. This is undoubtedly closer to our distance.
Sister Along the way there are two times the performance to impress me. One is to oversee the account Xiao Lizi physical discomfort, several Chinese meals do not make good food, but partly because a good mood, a fit of anger like a man sitting in the back, we have to rotate, and she refused to live or die. We do nothing of the occasion, Sister called the driver to stop, we thought she wanted to facilitate her surprise, Sister went to the car, Lakaichemen soon as Nuhe: "Xiao Lizi, if you let me sit in front!" Xiao Lizi obediently sit to the front. Sister one music, themselves seated behind. On another occasion, the morning could not eat breakfast, have no way of knowing how long to eat their next meal, we had to eat hard tack in the car, cucumbers and chocolate to add strength. Bus Master drivers side but gave nothing to eat, we are unable to like. Big sister with a piece of chocolate, from the back seat to look at the Proton stand up benba factor into his mouth.
Ranking second is the fat, and his name more and more, we generally call him the sheep. Because the driver said that Tibetan "sheep" read as "deer," he called deer. He it is more fat, most of the time sitting next to the driver of the wide-sit, but he always could not clearly understand the driver said, his southern accent drivers do not understand, he is also known as Zheng is the film "beautiful mother "inside the child. Sheep from Xiamen, his driving small companies, making canned export business. Married.
Yang is the best in photographic equipment, with with a telephoto camera and various lenses and micro cameras. He claimed that several volumes should shoot a video made of CD-ROM sent to us, but this promise has still not been honored. He always said: "The master disk has been well, busy, no time carved." Sheep because it is a typical southerner, not familiar with the lives of the North, but have not seen Tibet, all sorts of specific, a lot of trouble along the way jokes and always yelling, which we unanimously denounced. Sheep love Pork, each meal must be points. But he is a true nature of people to return to Xiamen, a cold, but still the drink buttered tea.
Next should be routed to me. I have just joined the first time to naturally sit in the back, but not familiar with them, so it was not too much to join their conversation, then they gradually unbridled up. And because of my physical good, stay and departure time when they climb on low channeling baggage, under the luggage, plus I was born in Xinjiang, Tibet, can be relatively quickly adapt to the lifestyles of everyone's praise.
If you are in front of the narrative because I frequently use the pp and mm and that I was "卡勒伍尔夫", then you are wrong. In our auspicious arrival back to Lhasa again, I have been given a free hand to give you arrange the room, we took her and I be grouped together. Everyone while not opposed, but agreed that I have plots, but in fact no special happen. This matter that I should not be regarded as a lecherous gentleman prostitution.
9, a man and two women in front of me mentioned in the narrative that was not tall big brother called Mummy, this is our Tibetan transliteration of his name in accordance with the deliberate distortion of the results, if you know the meaning of People's Liberation Army Kim Mamie, then you guess his name should have a "military" is used. Big Mummy from Xi'an, is a Merried But Available. He is a bitter child came home in Ningxia. Because they are Muslim, along the way we eat Pork, when he could only eat eggs fried potatoes wire. Although he and I had because of the anti-chih Hui-year period and the "spiritual history" have different views on the dispute, but when the conditions, I always accompany him to eat halal.
Mommy is a great activist, along the way say more than we were, he gave everyone's long journey has brought a lot of laughter. But because he was not tall, but the ladies are always hands and feet to make the attempt, it was snapped Ms. public. When he attempts to succeed, he will normally be beaten. After the beatings will be a laugh. Big Mommy with their own suffering in exchange for everyone's happy, he should be a noble person, a moral person, one from the vulgar people.
So far I have not mentioned a girl is Angela. She comes from Nanning, in Tianjin, reading books, and now Nanning Airport Cargo Division. Ying Ying are sub-masters in Lhasa, civil aviation, then I left Lhasa and his older sister, when are catching up with the peak passenger traffic, thanks to the graceful only get tickets.
Although Angela is a girl, can be physically well, ride mountain climbing trip he can almost walk with me in comparison. General outside to play, the girls are always being taken care of objects, can be graceful not, she can even lift the front with us, forcefully, so that the driver has been replaced Britain a bad front wheel hydraulic damping cylinder. This may be nothing on the ground, but if you climb the Potala Palace, when the last few steps necessary to mad breathe a while, you'll understand It is not easy task. In addition, Ying-Ying was a very diligent and studious girl. A journey on the way to stop eating when you point the dish at the other, I asked the boss asked for a block of hand wipes played a basin of water to windows and doors covered with dust, wipe again, to the graceful look in the eyes, remember on. The next meal, when she was the initiative to undertake this task. Yingying's lovely level can be seen the following examples: In the Zanda we encounter two other cars of young people taking the time to have a guy lying in our windows on the shouting: "Ying Ying, Ying-Ying, I love you!"
Tube account Xiao Lizi is the youngest one of us. She comes from Kunming, originally an advertising company to do, but because of his good ideas are often not recognized by the boss, but it had to be asked to do those bad programs, depressed under the sacked boss in Tibet had. Xiao Lizi tube off very tight. Once at Zhangmu looking for hotels, I found a few to find a good condition can be, the bargaining mentioned 25, we all Tinglei, and wanted to stay could be Xiao Lizi resolutely refused to say that there are still the cheapest online So they look for. Finally found the 20's.
Xiao Lizi not very lady, after listening to a dirty joke or laugh with impunity, can sometimes then just as inexplicably depressed. She and sheep was often jokes. Because in the Zanda pants she helped wash the sheep, while in Tingri sheep heartache that she did not make good dinner out big money to buy a specially called hens bosses spiced chicken stew and scrambled to her. She and sheep are the starting line before Ctrip an appointment finally came together in Xining, Qinghai-Tibet road has broken bus, and truck ride to Lhasa, from Golmud to La Sabi I spent the time had. Back when she sit still and sheep Army Air cargo plane flying to Chengdu.
4 Ali's trip
1, two hard the road the day of departure when we arrived at Shigatse still early days, because the plan to come back here again issued, and continued on our way to the Lazi to live down. Good accommodation in our expectations. Third, there is no human had to be a six humans, this is the first time, we live together in one room, Shaojue inconvenience, and later on taken for granted, because even when the person can not be a bad average, one bed. Of course, if conditions permit, or will it be two three humans, because after all, we are civilized.
Lazi is only 9 pm to 11 pm for two hours of electricity, probably because of power shortage. After dinner is late, and taking advantage of power I hasten to mention there is a bucket of cold water to come back, we wash finished exhausted, has referred to prepare tomorrow morning with a bucket. My bed by the door, sleeping when the door was found locked from the outside only, which button do not live, so put a bucket raised to block the door.
Room bedding fairly clean, I undressed into bed and found that dim light bulb still shining with the light. Everybody says with a smile and so it automatically extinguished, may be Guolehaojiu, light still does not disappear. Some comrades say so on its own eradication. I was immediately criticized his comrades, that we have to make the arrival of the shortage of electricity supply Lazi worse, how can he allow such a waste of people's power Lazi behavior going on? Spoke drilled blanket, monkey body-on, pull the rope on the next lamp post. Some people exclaim at the moment to see a small flash of light, belts and a shining white meat. On this matter there is an interpretation that I intend to demonstrate in front of the body in order to meet those who watch and are watched each other's pleasure, and thus there are some of means. The former explains the latter interpretation will be too bright too dark, showing that history always be explained by people intentionally lose its true colors.
The second can not be too particular about the way things is the convenience. No way to block all traffic on the road on both sides of road can only be resolved on the spot. I used to take long-distance bus to come home, and every time at a convenient time, the driver of a car will stop, imperiously calls out: "Helping啦! Men go to the right side to left side of woman." Sometimes, I think such an arrangement For the ladies, may be more dangerous, because they pay close attention when crossing the road opposite the opening to the car. But perhaps precisely because of danger, we usually get off on the right rest, with little to nothing to go on the left, so it is also, Ms. somewhat safe.
We are in this way, everyone on both sides of the road to resolve, the ladies are not accustomed to, He walked very far, even at the oxygen to climb over a small hill to facilitate the return are the face pale breathless. Later, fine school, and began to regulate circadian rhythm according to topography. Still later, ordered the male comrades on the train, in the car behind solved. Of course, there will be some toilets, but these toilets is probably a very simple and terror, and seriously affect the excretion of mood. I have spent time in a toilet, his head the sun is high, next to you can see people coming and going, one should always attempt to alert eyeing rushed to dogs.
2, forced hurry the next day, that is, at 4:30 p.m. on the 31st, we went to the 22 classes, faced armed police checking identity cards and border cards, not a problem. A little pain in my head again, probably a high degree of another will come up. Other people do not how to speak. The driver suggested stay there, because then we should rush into the Cuoqin will be late night, bad way to go and may not be able to find a place to live. But the sheep do not agree to adhere to hurry, and said that he and Xiao Lizi have driver's license can be helped to open. The driver side of Pakistan is not very talkative Tibetans temper Ting Ying, their driver's license a rather scornful tone. Later, Yang himself to recognize such a way that he can not be opened. I and the Great Mummy Though the recommendations of driver justified, but also a bit early, so went to the good cop. Finally they left.
Side of the road has always been a big lake with us, look at the map to guess that is zhari namco. Green hills around the green lake, people can not help but want to jump into the lake close to it. The distant mountains were snow white, billowing clouds horizon. Yang uttered a sound alarm that photo non-stop, and repeatedly asked to stop at camera.
Down to the dark evening, the weather is cold the. Cuoqin lights still do not know where I only heard that around the whirr of the wind and the roaring of our cars alone. As late as 11 am, and imagination Cuoqin light has not yet appeared in the car more and more cold, we all know is full of cold, can not imagine it is summer season. At this time, the distance a house fire more revealing.
3, Mo more tea side bus stopped a car into the side of two Tibetans and stoves, "rolling" of the conversation, and we shiver in the dark, cold and hunger. After a while, while Pakistan out told us: "Tonight lived here for it, each of 15 money." Disheveled hair and a dark skin Tibetans took a few candles, and took us into an earth house. The room was cold, the wind seems to make the outside look of fallen walls, the room getting bigger, should be enough for 10 individual sleep. Wall circle of soil xintaizi above some piled bedding and blankets, this is the bed of the. Housing the middle branch with two wooden pillars. Lit candles in the middle there is a metal found in stoves, chimneys Method of Direct tin roof. Tibetans took some cow dung cakes into the furnace, pouring a bit of petrol, take a little candle to the furnace, "call" to look up a red flame to drive away the cold, we live This has some gas.
I climbed the roof solution of the rope, luggage, and some supplies handed down, we get into the room. Big Mommy has somehow found a large aluminum pan and put a bucket of water began to boil water. We are ready materials, under head chef in the Great Mommy, followed by adding instant noodles, mustard, ham, cucumber, and finally cook up a pot of something. In our request, the Tibetans also provided a few bowls. Chopsticks to eat last night in Lazi has already pocketed some. As the time is still relatively abundant supplies, but also opened a box of luncheon meat and a box of lobster sauce dace. We squatted on the ground of their noodles soup. Pakistan did not side with us room and board.
Going to sleep, because he knew that fire would be extinguished and cold to be able to shop so we can cover the whole quilt blankets carved out. I and the Great Mom is responsible for the last bank up a fire on the bed, all the rest of the sheep manure into cow dung were all down. The results of the fire was extinguished. Big Mama is the boiler because the previous study, we are confident that the attempt to set fire to use toilet paper and candles. But run out of a candle and a half rolls of toilet paper only get a room choking smoke. I had to then go to the Tibetans in the room want to do some red-hot bottom of the manure, gesturing for a long time, Tibetans finally came to understand what I mean, put a bottle of gasoline come. Was again lit a fire, and the ferocious, the chimneys are red-hot in. Wrapped in a sleeping bag, then press a layer of quilt Xiao Lizi, because from the stove recently, has been baked straight sweating, had to sit up so the fire in the past. We snicker.
Up early in the morning, after the eldest sister, said last night the wind was smoky at first, each service point Niuhuangjiedu Yinqiao tablets and pills, so the collective medicine. After washing from the Tibetan Department bought a thermos bottle that we can drink buttered tea. Xiao Lizi starting after the accounts together. Pakistan tells us that while the car is called here multi-Mo tea. Mo is actually spent more meaning.
4, change the set of magnetic drove for two hours we finally reached Cuoqin, but Cuoqin now we no longer have meaning. The next scheduled location is changed then. To the change is, in the Armed Forces Departments hostel stay there, here, after all, good conditions, we could have separated the men and women. More unexpected is the big surprise, found that Muslim restaurants Mummy, sheep and actually found a place to bathe.
To the bathing place, a person even to 10, sheep and magnanimously Jiaoliao Qian can be regarded as a bath please. Leading boss said there are four, you can go in together. I thought he let us men and women shuffle, shocked, thinking how possession of such an open manner. Only later did I know that each side of the two, he meant is that we can both will look. Bath back to hit a lieutenant colonel, Ting Kouyin Shaanxi people, I immediately and his fellow climbing. He actually is a minister of the Armed Forces Departments. He said that the recent epidemic of infectious diseases here, it is best not to eat indiscriminantly things outside. We never hear this news appetite, and to a one-person shop to a bowl of egg noodles trouble.
Morning I get up early, go out kicking bending exercise. Very strange, out out I can always get up early, but can one feel at home until noon. Sister out of the laundry received yesterday, Ying Ying and Xiao Lizi is also up and wash the.院子里我老乡和一个政委指挥几个兵发动车辆，说今天有任务。说话间小李子也攀上了一个云南老乡,就是那个政委。大妈咪建议大家合影体现军民鱼水情。羊充当摄影师。
我老乡的情绪显然很高，说古格王朝他去过，好得很，还和那看门的王老头留了影。大妈咪立时动了心眼，要我跟老乡要个地址，以便到时候跟王老头套近乎。老乡又说大家还没吃早饭吧，到我们食堂喝碗粥吧。我知道大家都欣喜若狂，也就厚着脸皮说声不客气了。炊事员要给我们盛，我们说不客气，自己来，结果把剩下的绿豆粥咸菜和馒头吃了个精光。出来这些天头一次吃到这么可口的汉式早餐。上了车大姐还念念不忘，说那粥里肯定放了碱，否则不会那么稠。
5、直抵狮泉我们已经进入阿里地区了，一路上人烟越来越稀少，也看不到有同行的车辆。经常走了一二个小时，只看见路边窜出个鬼头鬼脑的小动物，又“出溜”一下不见了。也没有什么道路，有的只是草地上压出的乱七八糟的车辙。这大概就是无人区了。我不知道边巴是凭什么从那些混乱的车辙中找到正确方向的。我也不敢想象万一车坏在这地方会怎样。本想多嘴问边巴是否遇到过这种情况，但立刻否定了自己这种乌鸦念头。
路边又窜出那种小动物，边巴说那叫雪猪。大家叫羊赶紧拍。羊坐在司机旁边，占据着除司机外视野最好的位子，却睁着两只茫然的眼睛说：“哪里？哪里？”在大家的痛骂声中，边巴突然说了声：“藏羚羊！”大家的视线立刻投出去，远处果然有四五只高傲地竖着尖角的动物。羊终于看见了，手忙脚乱地抓起摄像机。可藏羚羊好象己经看见了我们的车子，一下就跑得无影无踪。车开到刚才见藏羚羊的地方停下来，无迹可寻，刚才那一幕就好像梦里的事，既清晰又恍惚。
上了车大家七嘴八舌讨论关于藏羚羊的捕杀和保护问题。记得报导上曾说因为无人区人迹罕至，藏羚羊原来很多而且并不怕人，但看来偷猎者已经使这种濒危动物惊恐万分，无人区再也不是它们的乐园了。
在革吉吃了顿饭后，走了一段异常颠簸的路，一个半天不到，后面的座位已经两次轮换了。在羊的抱怨声中，狮泉河到了。狮泉河是阿里地区的行署所在地，自然比我们一路经过的那些地方繁华些。住下洗了把脸后，大妈咪立即向小李子申请自主就餐的权利和额度，得到许可。一路上只有川菜馆，确实难为大妈咪了。我决定和他一起去吃清真，他们四人则仍去吃红烧肉。
狮泉河总还有些城市的样子，转了一圈发现居然有不少洗头房，门口的女人当街坐着打量我俩。我们暗叹“饱暖思淫欲”和“繁荣娼盛”真是一点不假。最后终于找了家新疆人开的馆子，令我亲切倍至。进去要了2盘豪华拌面和一盘手抓羊肉，吃得爽极了，并且跟那个有些姿色的女老板合了影。出来又吃了几串烤肉，不是西安味，也不是西宁味，地道的新疆人新疆味。当然超出了伙食额度，多余部分我俩自己贴了。
6、古堡探险第二天清早吃了早饭赶往日土，计划去看岩画和班公错，当晚赶回。但没找到看岩画的地方，又听说好象要得到当地文化部门的允许，就放弃了。其实看岩画主要是冲着资料上说有交媾图而来的。既看不成，就在班公错多玩一些时候吧。
在去班公错的路上，我们还不时望着路边的山，企图发现传说中的岩画。停车休息的时候发现居然发现路边的山上好象有两处墙壁样堆得齐整的石块，显然是人为的。这引起了我们的种种猜测。山不是很高，虽然有点陡，但我心里暗暗盘算了一下觉得应该能蹬着石头上去，便提议上去看看。大姐提醒我小心，我笑了一下说：“我和大妈咪先去试试看，我们不会拿生命冒险的。”
爬到半山，盈盈忍不住了，也奔过去跟我们的路线往上爬。我们爬到第一处齐整堆放石块的地方，发现有洞穴，还有许多刻着“六字真言”的石片，以及大量印模倒出的泥制佛像佛塔，就是资料上说叫“擦擦”的那种东西，立刻高叫起来。大姐、羊和小李子也忍不住了，沿一条稍缓点的路往上爬。
我和大妈咪又陆续发现了写有经文的纸，估计是经书。一把锈迹斑斑的铁刀，显然是武器。从泥土和木头建造的残破围墙可以看到房屋的样子。最后在一个壁缝里发现里面似乎是一条通道，两边画着勾勒简单的佛像。我们看到的那些齐整堆放的石块从内部看来则有点象防御工事。待要继续往上爬，发现有些危险了，因为更陡了，即使能上去，恐怕下来就不容易了。抬头看看，天蓝蓝的，云在晃，阳光耀眼地刺下来，山下的车和边巴也有点象玩具了。于是脚就有些软了，没再上。
大家回到车上后开始对所见到的一切做出各种猜测，但我们谁也无法确认这些东西的年代。受到我们这些天讨论的一些关于古格王朝的资料启发，大妈咪做了一个大胆的假设说这是象雄王朝的一个古堡。但不管是不是真的，这个探险活动显然使我们忘却了未看到岩画的遗憾。
7、班公食鱼班公错地处边境，有一部分在克什米尔印控区。我们一到达就看见有叫不出名字的鸟儿振翅从湖中的鸟岛上飞过来，在湖面盘旋。湖水很清，湖边的沙子也很干净。见湖边绑着一只小木船，我们就立即动手解绳子，打算划到鸟岛去看看。有人警告我们说那个木船会漏水，不能划远。但大家还是上了船。
羊开始大显身手，说他水性好，并指导我们如何用浆，如何才能协调配合，盈盈和小李子得到表扬，而我则被指责为用力过猛，不能很好与另一侧的同伴协调。木船经过一段左摇右偏的磨合，慢慢地摆正了船头驶向湖心。我大胆地决定下去游泳，虽然出来没有带游泳裤，但我想经过拉孜一夜大家对我的小裤头也应该习惯了。于是就脱掉长裤扶着船舷下到水里。虽然太阳很足，但湖水还是很凉的，游起来的感觉有点象在南京紫霞湖，可要费劲得多，毕竟此地高度和含氧量都与南京不同。扑腾了几下有些喘，和我们木船的距离也拉开了，我突然感到有点慌，奋力游到船边爬了上去。羊看我直喘气，本想下就不下了，他水性虽好，体力不见得好。船里果然开始进水了，还好上船前有所准备，我和小李子都带着个大茶缸，大家便轮流往外舀水。离鸟岛还有段距离，但考虑到划船的体力和我们中不会水的居多，恐怕不能冒这个险了。
终于划回湖边，湖边的饭店里只有一种食物，就是这里特有的裂腹鱼。等我换好衣服走进店里的时候，大姐他们已经围着桌子坐好在等鱼吃了。店里还有一伙人，在狮泉河和我们住同一个旅馆，他们一起2个车，大多是老广。过了一会，老板连汤带鱼端了一个脸盆放在我们桌上，大家立即动手。裂腹鱼也说不上有什么特别的味道，但因为现捞现做还是比较鲜的。吃完饭和另一伙人聊天，他们下面也打算去札达的。其中有个mm看着我们，样子很是娴静，她和羊一样来自厦门。
8、札达土林当晚回到狮泉河，大家抓紧时间利用这里的繁荣打电话，因为这一路上都没见到电话，手机信号也不通。第二天，8月4号早晨10点，我们离开狮泉河开始走南线，下一站是札达，目标古格王朝遗址。
去往札达的路和先前所走的不同，周围全是土山，没有一点绿色，山体表面大概是因为雨水冲刷，形成一道道沟槽，呈现名为土林的奇景。车进入一段边巴称为札达沟的土路，两边奇形怪状的山体和土林看来越发古怪，沟里也没有别的车，拐过一个一个的弯道时，会看到后方会卷起一阵黄土，很快把后面的窗玻璃盖得什么也看不见了。头上虽有蓝天白云，但我却有种诡异的感觉。在山体的底部，我们发现居然还有水平方向的波浪状痕迹，如果这也是水冲刷的，那么水难道曾淹没过我们现在正在行驶的这条沟，又或者这些东西本来全在海里，因为地壳变化被顶上来了？分特，这太荒唐了。
驶出札达沟，我们已经能看见札达了。在札达，我们想起改则的人武部，便四处寻找人武部招待所，果然找到了，房间很紧，要住只能是个有八张钢丝床的大房间。我们正犹豫，班公错那一伙2部车也开进来了，于是决定住。值班战士请示领导，决定让战士挤一挤来创收，连库房都用上了，还从我们房间抬走2张床，终于把两拨人都安顿下了。
要晚饭了，小李子说：“在狮泉河太铺张，咱们给养还多，这里又有条件，还是自己动手丰衣足食吧。”我们找到领导，请求提供灶火方便，领导跟食堂打了个招呼，算同意了。于是大妈咪再次主厨下方便面。本来有计划引开小战士，偷食堂几个鸡蛋和几根泡菜，都已经得逞，但又觉得过分了一点，实在对不起子弟兵，就悄悄放回原处。
趁着天还早，而且明晚仍住此处，大家又抓紧时间洗衣服。因为用水还比较方便，有人也洗头。人武部内顿时呈现一派生机，处处是忙碌的身影。
9、古格遗址第二天早晨8点，天还黑着，我起早洗漱锻炼完毕。 8点半，三部车先后出发去古格王朝遗址。早饭是在车上吃压缩饼干喝茶水。 9点多天刚亮我们到了遗址脚下。通往遗址建筑群的大门还紧锁着，旁边有间房子，大概就是那个著名的王老头居住之处。
我和大妈咪刚下车打算去房子里套磁，迎面走来一人，我还没反应过来，大妈咪已经大步上前，伸出双手，热情洋溢地说：“哎呀，您就是王师傅吧？”，然后紧抓住来人的双手握个不停。我这才反应过来，也赶紧奔过去献上热情。王老头显然不认识我们，但看我们如此热情也就打了个哈哈。大妈咪得到确认后立即展开攻势说：“改则军分区的×中校让我们来问候您，您还记得他吧，和您合过影的。”我从旁辅助，“是啊，是啊，×部长是我的老乡，他介绍我们来找您的。”估计王老头也不记得什么×中校了，但看我们言之凿凿的只好又打了个哈哈。我和大妈咪拥着他走回房里，问候着：“您还没吃饭吧？”“吃过了。你们来得挺早，一共几个人啊？”王老头到底明白过来了，直奔要害。 “我们6个人，您看门票是不是能优惠点？”我们也不兜圈子了。 “你们是学生吧？学生可以便宜点。”“我们是学生，是学生。”我赶紧拿出学生证，大妈咪则拿出个暑期社会实践介绍信说：“我们是来社会实践的，您看，这里有学校团委的章。”“都是学生？”王老头一点也不胡涂。 “哈，那什么，有几个已经工作了，不过我们都上过学的，您看是不是就一并处理了？”我现在也不知道当时怎么就憋出一句“都上过学的”这么个牵强的理由，好在王老头也没深究，大妈咪又一顿猛装穷叫可怜。当我们拿着6张及其优惠的门票出来的时候，老广们的2部车到了。远远地听见王老头威严地说：“要买票啊！”
一个自称普布确桑的藏人和王老头两人看管着这一片建筑群，他提着水壶和钥匙打开通往遗址的大门，带着我们往上走，在庙宇和殿堂处，便打开锁更换供台上法器里的圣水，我们则观看壁画和佛像。依次看过度母殿、白殿、红殿、大威德殿和坛城殿，建筑结构虽无高明之处（一个并不很大的白殿，居然用了34根柱子来支撑），但这些庙宇的存在却足见当时宗教生活的重要性和藏民的虔诚。普布似乎并不是一个正常的人，但却酷爱画画，他一路在我的小本子上给我们几人画肖像，说实话这些肖像很糟糕，不过王老头却说山下房间里那些我们曾看到的临摹壁画佛像却也出自他手。我不知道这是否算是虔诚的信仰造就的奇迹。
站在遗址的最高处向下看那些玩具般的建筑群，看远处的群山和河谷，我感到了古格的美。古格的美是一种残缺的美，在近乎完美的深蓝色天空下静静地矗立着的那些残垣断壁和废墟，让你的心震撼；古格的美是一种壮观的美，遍布于山上的房屋、庙宇、洞窟、堡垒、暗道甚至排水系统，让你想象到王朝的藏民用简陋的工具一代代完善这个庞大的建筑群时的艰辛；古格的美是一种神秘的美，这个存在了700多年的王朝因为宗教纷争而最终城破灭亡给我们留下太多的疑云和感慨。我无话可说，只有谋杀胶片。
从遗址出来已是中午，我们在旁边的沟中寻找著名的“干尸洞”，据说这里有大量浴血奋战的古格战士和民众的尸骨，因为干燥的气候和密封而保存完好，在洞口被发现并打开后才开始腐烂。在老广的指引下，我们找到了洞口，离地面还有一定高度，洞口最多能挤2人，大家推脚踩膝相互帮助轮流上去看。洞里有腐臭的味道，杂乱的骨骼、麻布，还有干瘪的筋肉纤维，我用手摸了一下，似乎还有弹性，但无论如何不敢进洞看更深处有什么。
老广中有2个医科大的学生，免费为每个上去观看的人讲解内尺外挠，内胫外腓以及根据骨骼判断性别年龄和看过腐尸后的防菌卫生问题。
10、古格归来回到札达后，大姐虽觉得按照医科大学生的教导用干燥的黄土擦过了手，但还是忍不住一遍遍地洗手，这使得我也紧张起来，因为我毕竟摸了干尸，于是洗完后又用酒精棉球擦了手。大家决定出去吃饭，并买了瓶白酒喝，以驱邪气。
饭后我和大妈咪打算再去托林寺看看，昨天晚间只大概看了一眼。沿街走下去可以看到远处的群山和象泉河谷，河谷边的开阔地上有一圈泥塔围成的区域，大概是坟墓，托林寺就在旁边，和民居混杂在一起。托林寺曾经非常有名，但文革期间遭到了严重的破坏。
我们走在空荡荡的寺院里，风吹动檐角的风铃“叮当”乱想。我们转动一个巨大的转经筒，它发出“咯吱吱”的叫声。大殿的门紧缩，墙根下堆放着刻了“六字真言”的石块，还涂了那种藏地常见的褐红色颜料，石块上还放着一只牛头骨和几只牛角。天暗了，我们转来转去，竟然转到了寺院旁边的一户人家，进了门仍是静悄悄的，正四处张望，忽然大妈咪抖了一下，我抬眼看去，墙头露出一个藏族老人的头，一动不动，一双眼睛象猫头鹰似的盯着我们，间或地眼珠转一下，显示他是个活物。我们赶忙“扎西德勒”，老人也合什点了一下头，嘴唇动了一下，我们这才看清有楼梯可以上到墙头，他就坐在那里。我俩的心这才停止了乱跳，赶紧退出。
回到招待所，还在谈论刚才的诡异，遇见边巴说去补胎，因为没有电动打气，只好用气筒一下一下地打了好几千下，还雇了2个人来轮流打，忙说辛苦了。晚上月色很好，在武装部院子里溜达，遇见班公错那个娴静的姑娘，明天我们就要分开走了，便留了个电邮。后来才知道，这姑娘看似娴静的外表下其实隐藏着对西藏如海浪般汹涌的深情。
11、神山被扣
8月6号早晨9点，我们离开札达，下午6时来到冈仁波齐。虽然不是藏历马年，来神山朝拜转山的仍然相当多，其中也有不少的外国人尤其印度人。这却碰巧让我们遇上了麻烦。当时我们正四处找住处，冈底斯宾馆已经客满，而当地居民家又不敢随便允许游客住宿，据说是外事和公安部门出于安全的考虑，因为这一地区中外混杂。边巴则因为札达没加到油因而去找熟人想办法在此地加油。
当我们私下讲定一家人家后回到车上时，却发现边巴的位子上坐了一个武警战士。大伙顿时有了不祥的预感。 “你们司机呢？”“不知道”“把你们边防证身份证拿出来看看。”我们知道不对头却也无法可想。武警拿了我们的证件看也不看，说：“等司机回来叫他到武警的值班帐篷里去，你们不能走了！”“为什么？”武警拉开车门丢下一句“你们车拉坏了我们的帐篷”走了。情况看来不妙，我们刚刚才到，怎么会有帐篷的事，显然是借口。难道我们私下交易被发现了？不像，因为他们要找的是司机，莫非边巴与他们有旧怨？
边巴回来一听，怒气冲冲地走向武警的帐篷，片刻又垂头丧气地回来，他的驾照和边防证也给收了去了。油没找到，又没了驾照，边巴又出去找熟人了。我们也决定去武警帐篷问个究竟。此处的武警归一个排长管，是个藏族，公安大学毕业的，态度不错，远不象刚才的小兵那样蛮横。排长解释说他是奉此处公安部门外事科长的命扣留我们车辆的，和一起案件有关，外事科长现在出去调查了，他们武警只负责执行任务。大家无话可说只好等待。
天已经黑了，外面又冷起来，下着细雨。我们没饭吃，没地住，没处去，没法想，只好待在武警的帐篷里攀老乡套近乎，关系居然有所改善了。这时，外事科长，一个穿公安制服的藏族汉子走进帐篷连声对我们说对不起，扣错了车，因为车号太象了，不过因为死了个印度人，关系重大，调查中的失误还请我们原谅。我们虚惊一场，便客气了一下说应该的，协助公安机关调查取证是公民的义务，但心想此地实在不便久留，只想赶紧索要证件离开。排长让稍等赶忙叫人去找刚才那个小兵，说不知他把我们的证件放在哪里了。我们想先去告诉边巴让他不用着急了，哪知边巴一听，怒气冲冲地到公安外事科办公的小房子里对着科长一顿发作。科长哪吃这一套，立即声称为调查印度人死亡案件，他有权扣押任何可疑车辆，写了一纸封条，盖上大印，叫人往我们车窗玻璃上一贴，车再次被扣了。
边巴没辙了，我和大妈咪赶紧找排长说情，排长表示公安要扣他也没办法。又找外事科去说好话，唱红脸，甚至动用盈盈希望能打动外事科长。但外事科长态度坚决，说：“你们是很好的游客，很好的公民，但你们的司机态度太恶劣了，他的车我坚决扣了，等案子查清了再说。”我们说这纯粹是一点小事造成的误会，我们在这不耽误您办案子么？再说我们是游客，也等不起啊。科长脸一黑说：“外事无小事，而且人命关天，这个车是肯定不能走了。我马上和他的旅行社联系给你们另派一辆车。”然后拿起不知什么通讯设备，一会呼叫“拉萨拉萨”，一会又呼叫“北京北京”。我们苦笑了一下，这车本来就是私人关系找的，要被扣了我们也不好和熟人交代，就算公安很牛逼能勒令重派一部车，从拉萨过来得多少天。于是又磨：“您看您这么忙，我们就不耽误您公事了，这又没地方住，放我们走吧，我们替司机给您道歉了！”“住的地方有的是，你们是好游客，你们不需要道歉，我来安排你们住宿。”说着让人带我们去外事科旁边的一个小屋子，不知是牢房还是库房。今天显然走不了了。
12、随遇而安事情到了这一步，只能随遇而安了，边巴又去找人。我们取了行李先放到小屋子，打算到武警帐篷里借他们的锅灶煮方便面吃。因为刚才套近乎起了作用，武警爽快地答应了，一个老兵还让值班小兵帮我们切点白菜帮子，我们赶忙多谢，说自己来吧。于是大姐和盈盈进了小厨房，羊散了一圈烟，大妈咪和和兵们瞎吹，小李子和云南兵叙乡情，我一会儿在外面帮帮腔，一会儿进厨房帮把手。面煮好了，闻着还挺香，可大姐盈盈不知因为身体不舒服还是因为心里犯愁面上还要说笑，没吃多少。小李子本来吃的就不多。我们三个男的虽然能吃，却也没能吃多少。因为面煮出来知道兵们吃过饭了，就客气了一下，哪知兵们却不客气地吃了2碗。
吃过饭回到外事科边的小屋，大家分析科长主要是要打击边巴的嚣张气焰，可边巴的脾气不可能象我们一样装孙子，今天和武警套得还可以，明天再请排长说说情吧，怎么说大家都是藏人么。这屋子不知是做什么用的，堆着些杂物，里面居然还有只羊腿，墙角有一张窗，床边并排放了三张床。边巴不知到哪里去了，还没回来，但我们决定还是给他留张床，我们六人挤三张床。屋子后面是一条大河，我打个手电在河边找了处堆满垃圾的地方打算方便，因为不敢跑得离房间太远。手电的灯光一亮，引来两岸的许多狗对叫，让人心惊胆战。我赶紧关了电，犹豫再三，还是悄悄地蹲下来。过了一会，黑暗里好象有只活物走过来，我吓得够呛，不敢照亮也不敢动，虽说西藏的狗老实，可我现在的样子实在不好对付它。那家伙慢慢从河边走过去，没来麻烦我。我舒了口气赶紧结束进程回房间拿东西出来洗漱。洗漱完正要回去，见盈盈捂着肚子问我在哪里方便。我指了指河边的黑暗处，盈盈听到狗叫有些犹豫，我说要不你就在这房子旁边算了，我帮你照应着。盈盈想了想说还是算了。我笑了笑和他一起回去了。
边巴回来看到了我们给他留的床，他也知道我们今天做了很多努力，似乎有些感动，但只说了句“谢谢”就睡了。我们也把床整理了一下几乎身体挨着身体的挤在一起睡下了。我很不习惯这样穿着很多衣服睡觉，但这种情形下显然是不能脱了衣服的。睡在最外面的大妈咪也许怕掉下床去，拼命往里挤。羊的旁边靠着女士，所以拼命往外挤，我被夹在中间简直连气也没法喘了。大概因为大家都睡得不舒服，或者大家都有心事，总有人翻身。每当有人由侧卧改为正卧的时候，就必须有人由正卧改为侧卧，以便让出空间。就这么折腾着一直到我困得什么也不知道睡过去了
13、逢凶化吉第二天起来互相抱怨打趣照相洗漱后继续去磨，看外事科长办案子。死者是个随团旅游的印度人，死因尚不明确。该团所有人的护照已经全部被收缴到外事科的桌子上，导游被叫来询问。法医到来后，科长带一干人等来到暂放尸体的破房子里，我们紧跟着去看，科长好象今天情绪好了一些，还对我们笑着说了句：“你们不怕死人吗？”
房间的地上因为雨水成了一片烂泥，铺着块塑料布，尸体就赤条条的躺在塑料布上，挺高挺胖，一副男性常见的啤酒肚，看着真是丑陋。科长站在不同的角度拍了几张照，然后让大家走开请法医来处理。不知科长确实公务繁忙驾不住我们的磨，还是因为消了气，在我们又说了许多好话后终于同意放行了。我们的证件终于回到自己手中，可边巴的边防证被那该死的小兵弄丢了。科长同意写个证明，并盖了公安的大印，可边防检查属于武警系统，排长手里没有章，就只好又写了个条让我们去前方的一个有章的武警驻地加盖大印。
问题好歹解决了，我们便去看神山。边巴把车停在某处地方，告诉我们转山的道路，并约好了时间，因为他觉得十分晦气，想早些离开这个地方，今晚打算住圣湖。算算大概只有4个小时的时间给我们，我们决定大家各自根据体力能转多远转多远，就带着食品和水出发了。
神山又叫冈仁波齐，据传是释迦牟尼的道场，大千世界的中心，在佛教徒心中有极其神圣的地位，类似于伊斯兰教的圣城麦加。转山被认为是一种功德和修行。我们在路上遇到一对60多岁的印度老夫妇，背着大登山包，拄着杖相互搀扶着走。更见到有人手上膝上绑着木板磕长头转山，似乎死在这里也心甘情愿。我不禁想那个死去的印度人也许是幸福的。
因为人在山中，很难看到神山的尖顶。但周围许多山峰顶上的积雪还是可以看到的，时而有小股的水流冲下山来，时而有河流经过道旁，路边还随处可见大大小小的“玛尼堆”。路上也有些和我们方向相反逆时针转山的人，按照边巴的说法，这些应该是苯教徒。在几乎垂直的山壁上居然有动物奔跑，是羚羊吗？我和大妈咪盈盈三人想走近些看个清楚，可是往山上爬了一段就知道这很难实现，便气喘吁吁地下来往回走，去和羊他们三人会合了。
14、圣湖冥思转山归来，赶往圣湖，路上在武警驻地盖到了章。天黑之前，我们赶到了圣湖边。圣湖没有神山那样的吵杂和喧闹，显得静悄悄的，几乎看不到什么人。我们住在一间大如教室的房间里，房间的中间用柱子和步隔了一下，外面是铺在地上的垫子，里面则是床。我们终于可以各自拥有一张床了。边巴说这里有温泉可以洗澡，我们顾不上吃饭打算先去洗澡。洗澡居然比吃饭还贵，每人20块，但我们还是进去了。澡堂很大，一人一个浴盆，拔去铁管上的木塞，便有水流进来，但有时也会流进些发黑的青苔。我们男士也不管脏不脏，放满了水泡在里面。女士则在隔壁大叫为什么没有淋浴，她们大概只好蹲在盆里凑到出水管前去洗。晚饭又只能借锅灶煮方便面，因为跑遍了周围几户人家，只发现一家有几个发芽的土豆，一块不知什么时间的风干肉。我们第一次体会到有钱也买不来东西的滋味。
第二天早晨起来，发现四周非常空旷，圣湖就在我们边上静静地躺着。有座小山丘正好在圣湖玛旁雍错和被称为鬼湖的拉昂错之间，应该是观湖的最佳位置。于是我们爬上那座挂着风马旗的小山丘，在清晨的风中远望圣湖和远处被云雾遮挡的神山。抛开关于神山和圣湖的那些宗教神话传说，神山给我更多的是一种庄严和刚强的男性象征，圣湖则是平静和宽容的女性象征。我慢慢地走向湖边，在近无可近的泥沼处停下来，看着浩瀚无边的湖水不由得进入了一种沉思和冥想的状态。那些虔诚的信徒，他们也许可以从转山的艰辛中体会到神山给予的力量和勇气，但只有在领略了圣湖的博大和平静所表现的智慧后，才应该算完成了真正意义上的修行。我走回到实地处，大姐说：“一个人在那儿想什么呢？”我笑笑说：“真美。”
傍晚的时候，我和大妈咪盈盈再次登上那个小山丘，这已经是我今天第三次了。风呼呼地吹得脸生痛，但天边绚烂的晚霞却使我们如醉如痴，瑰丽的红云和纯洁的白云争奇斗艳，变幻莫测，群山、大地和河流则沐浴着金光静静地注视着一切，似乎对这一幕司空见惯，而等待着绚烂之后的平淡。这是人生的真谛吗？绚烂到底是虚幻的、疯狂的还是壮丽的、永恒的？平淡呢？是现实的、理智的还是庸碌的、无奈的？谁能够告诉我？
Author: caijtj
