Northwest Plateau of Sichuan rush line
With the impatience to rinse the slides of this journey, in the movement of stars, the quiet memories, quietly record - When you see the Qiang age 80, dry old lady carrying a heavy camera in front of the barely smile to the camera, I burst into tears, it is guilty is guilty of so close to her shooting, and her simply because I gave her a chocolate grateful for the hard out of the front of the camera smile, let me a long time there is no night be able to sleep at, I have this urge: I can do something for her?
The journey there is no specific target, or even to go to Chengdu, where the post is not entirely clear, only know to go to the mountains, to explore canyons, to lead a snow-capped mountains, to the Reaches the Border. . . No hesitation in carrying a large bag, put on a heavy Jiaojia followed military career was born, a senior photography teacher teacher, boarded his journey accompanied by the body for many years in a jeep, of course, his "love" - Hasselblad Camera , with a film studio in the old photographer Wang teachers, nice people aspire to the impossible Du teachers and unwavering advocate of digital cameras, the teachers began to Kawanishi journey west.
Entered this pass, leading to the ancient tribes; out of this pass into the city's hustle and bustle
Starting from Chengdu, the next a light rain, cars driving up the road Jiuzhaigou, quick passing Dujiangyan, the sky blue up, white clouds in the mountains walk through, a taste of Sichuan is a beautiful and majestic mountains. Along the Minjiang River to reach Wenchuan County, at noon on a warm offal soup, eat the cake after Nang continued on our way. Out after Wenchuan County, turn left on State Road 213 into the A road leading to miyaluo scenic route. Along the way Zagunao River, together with a joyful heart singing along while Huaihua fragrance is intoxicating, while the red cherry water Lingling temptation you have to buy the few catties. From time to time just to pay attention to the danger of landslides along the way, Fan teachers while driving, side to see if there is the rise of rock fall from the sky. Most of the mountains in Sichuan soil is loose, turn the collapse, landslides occur every day. From the Wenchuan out 15 kilometers to the left, on a rugged and narrow mountain Road can not see the top of the mountain slowly backwards Daoqu, car bumps the forward driving can still continue to spend the acacia trees on both sides of the fragrance smell even saw a little girl carrying a large bag hurry slowly forward, I feel that we have entered the pass leading to ancient civilization. Turn the pass one after another, passing one after another cliffs, looking round not see coming out of the junction, and finally we reached the Po Township - Pure Qiang Township.
Li Pu Township is located in the eastern counties, along the road down into the A 15 km, about 6 km south into the ditch, that is, the township government is located, elevation 1900 meters, located at latitude 31.29. "Township area of 118.9 square kilometers, A total of five village has 388 people in 1882, high mountains and deep valleys, sparsely populated. the town's highest point Xue Long Bao Peak, elevation 5560 meters, the lowest point at 1,100 meters, part of the plateau climate. According to the local person: agricultural land 3460 acres, a variety of more corn, potatoes, cabbage, pepper, annual sunshine 1698 hours, annual rainfall of 630 millimeters. but this time Van teachers to mainly shoot color Seoul Walled in 3500 while living at an altitude of the hills above, where the first year out of a university student, where the Qiang people have once a year down the mountain pass out of here is the same as the Chinese New Year joy. we arrived at the township government after the cruise around in a circle, poverty does not overshadow the original natural beauty and simplicity, where people still retain their original lifestyle approach the millennium change still wear their clothes, colors, patterns revealed the beauty of the wisdom of their millennium, major holidays, when they are still jumping Guozhuang dance Drum. people are squatting Diao the pipe, the name card, chatted days, time passes here, the original people here, day by day grow old, and then his body and spirit and nature combined.
Stream from a walk through a mountain stream, clear bottom, around the farmhouse simple, simple flowers around indeed. Take a look at the distant mountains of the color Seoul Walled, vehicles can not open up, people want to climb to the twists and turns have to one day, and later heard that to go any further, it was seen very beautiful with the snow-capped mountains of the plateau Haizi, Fan teachers After listening very excited to launch motor ready to go. Unfortunately, has no road going forward, we must hire horses to go, the locals are only occasionally seen it go Haizi, and no one willing to take risks with us inside. We are simply in the street began to put the horse chatted about the days of half a child. Of these children because of his family, because the environment, because it is blocked by mountains and mountains outside, there is no chance to receive normal education, they were eager to get the information outside the mountain, eager to know the wonderful mountain world outside. They envy our hands waving to the camera, their natural before the camera moved by the simple people, people want to shed tears. And they are also the only all of our trips do not reach out to us begging the Montagnards, money here, has lost its force. Suddenly the sun has become cute together, and we hastily took up the shelves of the guy, but in an instant, shooting to the grandmother's, my mood is extremely sad, and this sad, whether in the past or in the future, it will be time and again emerged from the bottom of my heart, in my life long journey soul erosion. Time to say farewell season, the children reluctant to leave the little hand waving to us, the air was filled with the feelings of loved ones, respectively, into the mountains on the way coming out of song and laughter at the time of sudden became a little quiet, some heavy.
Out of the way the chip side floor, they encountered a Qiang little girl, she is so enthusiastic, so the mere display of her paintings, she just hope that deserves our appreciation, our pointing, and she strongly invited us to go Her home, the mountains sit Unfortunately, because we have to hurry, had to bid farewell to her, and she stood shaking hands with the mountains we bid farewell to the case will be forever inscribed in our minds, so that the teachers returned to town on the West to bring this matter after the total wrote: In fact, we have wasted a moment's work, should go to her house to see. Unfortunately, leaving the total at each trip, should not it?
Built with the sweat and life into the ancient civilization, and finally link them with the rich, but it was also the ancient heritage of future generations to their devastating sweep of history's eternal will slowly disappear in the modern civilized world rhythms.
This did not intend to go Taoping Village - this is applying for World Heritage Millennium Guzhai. As the weather getting late, so it was a whole are ready to live down here. Tao Yuan-Ping Zhai in the eighties to be tourists, scholars, journalists, photographer, archaeologist of the attention and favor, and now a professor of Qinghua Shen stationed here for many years to apply for this Guzhai World Heritage Site. This is the year the Qiang people to resist foreign aggression and the construction of the bunker, built in the Han Dynasty, which like the maze in general, layer upon layer upon layer, and some long, narrow aisle can only be the body sideways over the past (as in the West as a teacher figure is the can not be passed, He He), and this corridor is already the Beholder 4 volts on both sides of the aisle walls are numerous holes is used to kill the enemy with a bayonet through the use, and towers with machine guns in general can not fire in, towers of science is designed to be a time when the earthquake in the Republic from destruction, more features here, is located in the valley, water reticulation system is absolutely no less than the developed continents Hongcun emblem of the water network system, and has not been contaminated, where people still relied on for their livelihood, sweet and delicious.
We live here, is well known for the beautiful, strong, and bold young woman Long Qiang Xiao-Qiong at home, people say there is no dragon there will be no small Jean Ping Village today's peach, it is because when the head of the dragon in the Song and Dance Troupe Joan out of the small the cottage, the modern civilization into the cottage, because she's active promotion, because her business acumen, will the world's attention focused here, and she herself, has become a cottage in a landscape: Almost every day cottage standing on the threshold of personally received tourists from around the world, and she did a beautiful and extraordinary.
Long Xiaoqiong family hung a whole cellar full only of finishing pigs only, glowing red to make people think about wealth. And here every household full of platform Huang Cancan of corn, courtyards full of cherry trees, above the junction filled with pleasant cherry fruit, even walking in the cottage in any track, cherry fruit are readily removable to entice the Japanese DAN Cherry 300, without any hesitation cottage people often do. In the evening can be seen from time to time under the old Qiang customer friendly chat with the tourism scene.
On the platform we put up guns sprint, select the right position and waited for the back of the 5000 meters high mountain clouds and the sunset light. Leisure down the local people told us that across the mountain is home to a long-tailed Ba Mingjiao Tanks strange man, still exists, the same with us human beings can predict their own future, when they see their tails when drying know live in the world, when time is running out, they drill into a forage supply thereafter Tanks serenely waiting for death to come for the day. Based on our year kokir infer they are people, their eyes prominent, fierce battle, but no brain, and has been defeated by the Qiang people live in the mountains in cold areas. Although there are no streaks of the evening sun so that we captured the majesty of the ancient towers at dusk, but the strange legend of the jars to be our night interesting topic. The eight dishes and one soup at night, especially Huaihua dry taste too good to great, although a small dragon covered with pork Joan house, but we eat dried pork is pretty flattered by Qiang fond of rice wine so that we , apart from a Western teacher who covertly to date 22:00 Xiaoqiong Long jump Guozhuang dance, we have four sleeping bags wrapped in damp moldy room sound asleep together.
Morning we woke up early to go to Ganpai Taoping Walled morning mist in the morning in the panorama, and then we ran into the pile of Taoping Walled lovely children, them old clothes pattern, brilliant color, innocence is no doubt too busy to smile become the lens of the most beautiful scenery, we have been tracking with them, the kind of natural beauty and lively Let us excited, and this lively and was finally ordered by their parents we have to give money to the flood, and the power of money in the peach Ping Zhai embodied in the very obvious. LONG Xiao Qiong, as a Nvliu created a miracle in tourism history, giving the people here have brought prosperity also brought the demise of history. Built with the sweat and life into the ancient civilization, and finally link them with the rich, but it was also the ancient heritage of future generations to their devastating sweep of history's eternal will slowly disappear in the modern civilized world rhythms. The establishment of a number of concrete buildings, commercial breath permeates throughout the cottage, over-development of the increasingly serious and accelerated the rapid demise of this ancient civilization, and the lonely. How in the dissemination of excellent Chinese ancient culture while those ancient culture well protected, to be our permanent topic of discussion in these later generations.
Why live here? Because there are land. Why not live in the foot of the mountain? Because the mountain is not our land
From the Tao Ping Zhai out, out of Wenchuan, the road to Songpan greatest wild Yingtaogou (also known as Yan Meng ditch), from Cherry Vale open look inside are said to have more than 5000 meters high mountain Haizi scenery is extremely beautiful, very few Some people went to, we have been opened up to look inside there is no way, they can not find the people lead the way, had no choice but to go back to concentrate on shooting the wild cherry fruit, it is simply sweet and sour taste, Ms. Wang said that he lived for more than 70 years of age for the first time to eat to such a delicious cherry fruit. We opened the posture, the film is dedicated macro into the role, unfortunately I do not have macro lens can also be difficult than I, specifically looking for big stars of the film, from time to time about the West Daoteng a teacher, he was in this way virtually no death has been frustrating me is very lucky, I'll shutter lines disappeared, and a moment lost hat, and a moment Jackets do not know where the pull, or else that is left behind, the biggest is his old sleep less than when I later Daoteng He let him sleep, coupled with Ms. Wang loud rattle of along the way of travel lectures, so that the teacher not wait for the Frontier West headphones loaded hog carcasses back to Chengdu, said to me after the side of the vows after the rest of my life certainly do not go the same way with me as he asked me when to begin the trip to Africa, do not forget him Shao Shang.
Yan Meng passed off to open a 200 meters turn right on a rugged mountain paths you can go to China's largest Qiang Zhai Zhai Rob Unfortunately, the lack of time we can only select the most distinctive Qiang Zhai go. Car drove up to the pure Qiang County - Maoxian, with 18 towers to the high muntjac Village: Black Tiger Village. Can be described as a green corridor along the way, all of Huaihua trees, roadside Huaihua honey fragrance smell on the way to experience China's most successful lid, another high mountain, and then deep valley, and then far Haizi, as long as there people live, there is a white satellite dish lid, which is still feel very pleased.
Shui Po, on the one hard and rugged trails, open for two hours, around 15 o'clock reached the foot of the mountain Black Tiger Black Tiger Village Township, hit a very nice group of children and a group of ducks, and waterfalls. The murder of many of our film. Honest people here is lovely, as mayor on the Black Tiger Village, we will be large pieces of luggage and car threw a village full of people, who gave us the final pick up, and we do not know, I know that back heavy camera bags, and the township's two baskets and loaded with some of the farmers sleeping bags and necessary things began to climb Black Tiger Village, we must arrive before the Black Tiger Village in the dark, otherwise we will consume physical mountain in the dark Inter. Black Tiger Township is located in the middle of the valley, and numerous mountains their isolation with the outside world, fortunately, was there a river running through their homes, where there is water, it will be there is hope. Along the way we stop-go, with two fellow chat, they said that they mainly depend on kinds of pepper and potatoes to sustain life, the income of Chinese prickly ash is quite substantial, and a year can have more than 700 kilograms of Chinese prickly ash output, income year a range of 12,000 dollars, it shall not be in the Sichuan region, but the thing, of course, not all farmers are so, like the peasants in the mountains there is no such income.
Potatoes planted on the road in the sunset reflection film to become the lens in the incomparable beauty of the scenery, while Fan teachers and Du teacher: "Your Hasselblad and I rolled, you will save who" problem chatter, Fan teachers slipped and out: That certainly saved me a Hasselblad. West teacher panting, the do not forget to give me, working in a beautiful shot, I moved to call him uncle did Ms. Wang will always be our culture teachers, along the way do not forget to give us lessons on the culture and really did not learn little things. Two brothers along the way for us Qiang singing love songs, a taste of ethnic minorities forthright temperament, dark when we reached the Black Tiger Village, living in an old friend of the teacher's Fan House: Old Yang.
Black Tiger Village, is 3,000 meters high mountains, there stands a 18 towers, and Peach Ping Zhai same, but has become more primitive, lonely, lonely but dignified, for the year the local General Yang Qiang generals to fight the foreign invasion and the construction, thousands of years, and now, under intact only five have been Qiang farmers live in towers in the mountains of clouds in the majestic towers, is already the cliffs next to the stockade at night not clear, the next day the morning a look startle themselves.
Evening, Lao Yang made a meal the whole family to our delicious meals: Wind bony pork, potatoes, Baba (also known as potato Baba), get burned big potato, and we sat in the big iron sat carbon Huopang, burning with the local small rice wine, Naoqi of homemade. Returned to his family more than a dozen people I photographed family portrait, Fan teachers brought them to a time when the last of their published articles in newspapers, they are excited about looking in the flickering of the lamp to write their own articles, the This bunker story, the story of the cottage income, as well as the proliferation of children's story cottage, everything is so calm and simple. At the same time in some dialogue, we also feel the helplessness of their lives: Why live here? Because there are land. Why not live in the foot of the mountain? Because the foot of the mountain is not our land. Which is the middle of the historical problems arising from ethnic conflicts is not that we can to help them solve. The afternoon climbing a mountain, we are wrapped in a sleeping bag along with two large quilts, the wind still from the window outside the flood, the Waking after a night, perhaps the reason the mountains above sea level, I can not sleep, had to sit the name of semi-pier.
Got up early, Ms. Wang was an outpost wake up, a look, wow ~ ~ ~ clouds from the sun flooded in. Yamaguchi, slowly climb down the mountain, the distant cloud band layer upon layer, in the countless mountain surging, is very ambitious, I hastened to the shooting, from time to time to find location, change the angle, because rapid changes in the distance near the wildflowers brake is beautiful towers in the clouds and disappeared the obvious, dressed in colorful ethnic costumes, Women's severe drought Qiang got up and began to work, they walk in the mountain streams of our rare color and dynamic. They said to myself: wear a suit is a historical regression. For thousands of years they have stuck to their tradition, this tradition much longer? Cliff next to the stockade in the middle is a fault in the valley, looking across the cliff, wild flowers, blooming all over the hill, yellow, white, purple number is unclear, the original mountain snow in the sun appeared to be very pure and bright. Under the potato clouds of light reflection films, next to a small red house, constitute an incomparable dream patterns.
Nearly noon, we bid farewell to the Lao Yang 1, down to the township, on the road even from afar were caught by the National Tourism Bureau, and estimated that they have never been so tired, his hands still empty, and led the young man gave us a key wrote: your things there. Also told us that they are officials, should develop into a new Black Tiger Village tourist spot, do something good for the common people. Days, Sichuan, telling people how to develop tourist spot. Goodbye folks, we found a trail coming out next to the middle of the mountains there is a narrow old Plank Road, so I Fan teachers, teacher climbed up the West, the wind was a big surge of chi Plank Road next to the ancient The small temple in the drift out of nausea not, almost from the Plank Road on the fall down, depriving the I hurriedly run down.
Dragon: the beauty of dry
Songpan straight afternoon, the road through the stacked Western Haizi also very shocking. Large traffic jams along the way a car accident, Fan teachers worthy of the title who was a journalist, I heard a car accident, leaving us, carrying his camera on the dash top. Best way to see the forest being cut down piece by piece, exposing barren mountains, mud-rock flow continuously increased, is not too happy. When the Da Songpan, car breaks down, so we have broken down into smaller road, find hotels and repair shops, and looking to eat more, I was very sad, the body is very uncomfortable, along the way on the vomiting, but also with a high fever. The day my friend gave me from the distant west coast brought a sad news, so I would like to shed a tear, I have endured endured, but also filled with very happy to buy a Tibetan bracelet. Anyone who then said to me: marry me. I will not hesitate to go with him. Almost all of the hotels are filled with people, until 21 o'clock before we separated in the Songpan Inn to find the edge of the wood shelter, usually 8 yuan of beds actually risen to 20 yuan, no way, I really refused to take a quilt stink smoke blackening the sky and into the sleeping bag tears up. Renzailvtu sorrow often can not find words to express.
Tiangang misty morning shot up Songpan city gates, and then went straight into the breakfast is not Huanglong. Passing through the Red Army monument, the teacher said: If the weather is good, 17:00 shooting a bronze statue of the Red Army monument, is simply magnificent. Here was the Red Army had a battle along the way, Ms. Wang to us for a revolutionary Marxist education, and how to resolve ethnic conflicts, during which mixed a lot about making movies during the year Ms. Wang left the affair, He He. Qiazhe table we have reached the plateau more than 4100 meters of snow Baoding, the road sub-flying snow, visibility very end, it is so we do not forget the way to shoot some small scene, a lot. The 1000 Hong Minshan rationale behind the cover in the maul, the endless continuous extension. Here, I saw the most beautiful snow, roadbed with the red fence in the snow formed a new landscape.
Fan teachers who came to Huanglong countless times, so they left me and the Western teacher to shoot a small town next to the Huanglong scenic, and I am a teacher with the West, pulling two small chocolate climbing on the Huanglong. Huanglong scenery has been described in vertical cross back back there will not be wrong. Huanglong, not long after entering, I say: fooled, I have to go back. In my mind: the beauty of Huanglong is dry. West teacher rather have the patience to coax me to obstinately to Wucaiche. In any case, or would like to thank the West teacher, I saw the most beautiful Wucaiche Huanglong. Where is my professional again fell to the ground, but also get on the ground shooting a lot. Pour me the most satisfaction are not photographed Wucaiche, but shooting a lot of small forests in the landscape, a Lvtai, a little biology, a belt of ice flowers, that is life, that is, the original accumulation of生命. It is with such, so that they have to wait for the teacher Fan us two hours. I am so sorry!
Wonderful incomparable Dan Yun Gap - the start of destruction of the original landscape
Huanglong out, we immediately Shui on a rugged trail, we will enter Dan Yun Gap. Dan Yun Gap 85 km east of Pingwu. Huanglong scenic area west of the main ditch 20 km. Gap fan hole, stop-yu Zhu Feng, winding 20 km, river valleys in the 1700-2600 m above sea level, plant and animal species are many many seasons, Autumn, Spring unique, canyons, mountains, waterfalls, animals numerous.
People talk about China's scenic by photographer and adventurer created by his statement that does not leave the road, landslides collapsed against numerous waterfall laser printer in the body, there is no signs of human habitation, no roads, crossed a a creek, but the beauty of countless make you dazzle linger round-trip. Wild cherry blossoms in full bloom at the roadside, ravine where the gold in hiding, who destroyed the riverbed, forming floods. When he first entered Canyon, mountains and wild side of the of spring, such as painting generally shows in front of us, Guaizhuang rocks, black rocks under the countless sheep, absolute scenery.
"Shima off" two unique viewing platform, green and mixed in the eyes of the spread of Autumn, Shima off the mountains near the cliffs, Utah for the Zhuang light, the cliff waterfall 3000 feet, the mountainside green lock in limitless, row of trees to make dyeing, gorgeous color point He embellishment decorate misty, majestic canyon is very imposing, I really can be described as light rail vehicles have passed 10000 mountains, the two sides ape sound tick do not live, that mountain, that tree, then water,,, Words can not express.
Since then, we pass one after another of the "Moonlight rock", rock, such as bringing a moon-like, "鲤鱼跳龙门" great leap out of the waterfall from the gantry; "Panda Stream", here is playful panda land; "Maple Valley", fall Maple Leaf here is absolutely no less than miyaluo; "Zhanhe monument," Two Rivers war, there must be an injury, Chu River as the boundary; "White Dragon Gorge", waterfalls, such as a White Dragon rolling down the middle rock, such as Black Pearl the general embellishment of them. Along the way signs of human habitation disappeared, and very happy to see if the travel adventures on foot from Guangdong who joy say hello. We stop-go, danger still exists, we must break through this before the onset of darkness went to Crystal Valley town of stay.
We do not want Dan Yun Gap Nature Reserve, a whirl for the next tourist hot spot, to the point of tranquility to the nature, to the point of freedom to the point of space to our small bar of wild animals.
In a short span of 20 km on the road we have consumed more than 8 hours, 21 o'clock went to the town of Crystal, live on the six dollars a bed, and made us all embarrassed to bargain. But the night stink to high heaven of the quilt so I really can not sleep.
Spring, autumn, suspect in the autumn
Get up early up, we arrived at the flat-wu Baima Tibetan counties and some bread to eat a delicious breakfast.
Pingwu in Fujiang upstream, there are 2000 years of history, is a Tibetan, Qiang, Hui,, especially the Baima Tibetans live. Baima Tibetan is a very ancient nation, there are about 3627 in Pingwu Baima Tibetans, mainly dominated by agriculture, has a unique beauty of the old clothes and has not changed, shelter construction, mostly on the second floor at the end of a galloping horse angle, painting painting, quite a distance, some Japanese-style, white horse with special language phrase structure and grammatical structure.
Understand the Baima Tibetans, we went to shoot Hoonji, Porcelain Tower of Nanjing is the most famous of the nine ring construction, 278 meters from east to west, covers an area of more than 27.8 thousand square meters, construction in the Ming dynasty, is to design a very beautiful Buddhist buildings. The most famous is the temple, there is China's largest and best-preserved Buddhist scriptures a perfect runner, regardless of craft or structure is natural sigh. China is now only keep a 3, but this the most complete.
Back to Chengdu on the way, we can not believe in the spring, all the way to the mountain terraces of gold, the murder of our depleted film.
Postscript: This article took five hours to complete, really tired, there is an error in the local paper, but also do not want to correct, please bear with.
June 2002
Author: nancy_lu
