To Chongqing, the original is to walk the Three Gorges. But the torrential rains and floods, the news I do not feel comfortable on the Three Gorges Plank Road, in particular, fear of uncertainty on travel time.
Chongqing, a friend of my nose at the Three Gorges scheme: "The Three Gorges, what a good-looking? Hype thing!" Confidence in me once again to give a heavy blow.
Then, five days, where to do?
Go to Songpan horse bar! !
Thus begins with Chengdu, Chongqing rush.
To Chengdu, living in Red Zhaobi Shaanxi Street, Chengdu hotel next to the SAM'S GUESTHOUSE. Here, while not members of the International Youth Hostel Federation, but the conditions and other similar youth hostel, LONELY PLANET has a referral. 40 yuan / bed Triple with bathroom kinda clean. In fact, there was originally Shaanxi Hall, said to have 300 years of history, the environment elegant, but the people do not know much, so basically all foreigners living.
June 29, had to get up at 6 am starting to catch the 7:00 shuttle Songpan.
Hostel pick a small van, not too far to the west gate, after the station bought a ticket, is 47.5 yuan, while the hostel last night and today to connect vehicles ticket money I collected a total of 65 yuan, it seems they also earned points.
There is still a small van on the young American named Mark, but also to Songpan horse riding, go the same way with me. But the hostel we bought tickets to the county team, where there are provisions: Only provincial and state teams can take a foreigner, county and the team is not allowed. When we figure out this problem, the other two classes of states, provinces to Songpan the car had been starting, and poor marks can only sit tomorrow's car, and I can not wait for him, had to switch to 8:40 to go Chuanzhusi car , to go through Songpan, but only to buy end of the votes, 15 more than the money spent, I also considered bad luck.
Bus along the Minjiang River upstream. Minjiang River is not wide, Jiang Liu rapids, the two sides are mostly alpine valleys. Can be considered to take the Three Gorges section of the small bar! So I did not go into the Three Gorges Project to reduce their own sense of loss.
Dinner at noon on a roadside shop, the owner shouted "eight dollars meat dish, vegetables four dollars," no Guia! I took a dirty one Su-1 of rice, eat after the checkout and wife went so far as to close 19 yuan.
"13 yuan is not it?"
"Who said that? Ten-dollar meat dish, vegetables eight dollars! Is the price!" The owner looked at me ferociously finished and other visitors, and those visitors are carefully watching their jobs are not silent.
Damn! Case of unscrupulous business practices of the! I am also ready to find the proprietress and the driver theory about it, but seeing two cooks in the kitchen staring at the side here, while Hengheng to take a chopper in the chopping board chop, think, or do not eat the immediate losses, record store back to say it. And so on out to see stores, was that the "Wenchuan County Hotel", the original This is typical of black, its name and make many people can not check.
17:00 o'clock, vehicles are to Songpan county.
Two cavalry were at the station next to one called "Shun Jiang horseback," one called "happy trail cavalry," a long history of more along the river, allegedly had thirteen years. The two teams are the same lines and prices are 80 yuan / day.
Riding to the destination of a number of options, there are going Xuebaoding, and Huanglong, and Dan Yun Gap, Munigou, and so on. To Xuebaoding is a four-day trip, you can also has completed three days, but received a four-day costs. I chose the Xuebaoding Colts three days along the river journey. Haggling with them to 70 per day, which is 280 full.
Songpan county is very small, one street from south to north, also about 500 meters. But this unassuming little town on the Moon to the history of the Tang Dynasty Song state, has been yes yes A competitive edge of ancient military stronghold, is the Han nationality and ethnic minorities tea-horse trade business and trade hub. Now preserved the north, east, south three gates are still very ambitious, but always stretches from the north gate to the Peak walls Can Yuan, in the sunset of the mirrors disclosed under the heavy historical flavor and a trace of Lamo's bleak.
And I go the same way, and also from Chengdu, slightly shy of the handsome young man some of Guo Tao, this year's graduate school, take time out before graduation to play, just returned from Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong back. We all live in the caravan next to the Traffic Hotel, 15 yuan / bed with a bathroom of the three humans, much cheaper than in Chengdu.
June 30 World Cup final day, may this day whom we will spend in the mountains Colts had to miss the exciting showdown of the Bard.
9 o'clock, the wizard and groom on horseback pack finishing a good bag, our backpacks are strapped, and then we and the respective guide a person riding a horse, to Xuebaoding embarked.
Speaking of riding, in fact, is not riding in the saddle. Because the pack bag put a tent, sleeping bags, quilts, food, pots and so on, have a thick pad, people riding in the pack bag above, Huang Youyou, and some feel like a camel. Chuan, MA heads is not high, but the endurance is good, used to take the mountain road, Tuozhuo heavy baggage and people still do not Xieqi way up the hill to climb.
Guo Tao, is not accustomed to riding a horse, let alone the steep mountain path, one side is a sheer precipice, and fell to the consequences can be imagined. He is an impatient horse again, no matter what the roads are Zhiwang Qian channeling, depriving Guo Tao, very nervous, riding is not the next is not until the halfway break, jumping horses, Zhi Han tailbone pain.
Riding crossed the line four alpine meadow, to a valley, came to the Tibetan village on the nano. Further forward, began to climb mountains, and gradually entered the forest.
At noon a result of their four-day trip place to rest, we did not break, continue Quma forward, because we have this day to catch two days away.
More than two in the afternoon and reached a valley in the village. This is the nano-village, and on the nano-village, is a Tibetan village. Was written before the wooden roadside canteen: Each visitor must pay into the mountains quaternary pasture damages.
In a courtyard door, a tree with eye-catching wooden "Wizard Tashi, there are nine summit experience, Sichuan Mountaineering Association ... ...", the original, this is quite a lot of controversy in the online guide Tashi's house. Although there is no contact with him, but when the last time Nicole leased them to look at the price of horses is a bit expensive. They rent 40 yuan immediately hill, down 35 yuan, which is 75 per day for each horse still do not pack any charges. We rented horses from horseback, 70 dollars a day, there is a wizard, two horses, and Guanchiguanzhu.
Nano left the village, 10 minutes later, we came to a foot of stream grass. There is a foreign couple had been in the camp here. After learning they were chatting with the "happy path" cavalry four-day trip, and from Ireland. The next two days and we will go the same way. .
Here is about 3600 meters above sea level around. The weather good, but the mountains the temperature is lower than the county more than to have to much cooler in Chengdu. Measured a moment, the temperature is 16 degrees. Came here with only a long-sleeved shirts, and good to begin with borrowed pieces of sweater wizard, although the clothing has a very strong foul smell Yi Gu horses, but did not care so much warmth to bear.
Around the village before dark, twisted my nano, got a little scenery. Tibetans have a new house under construction, all wood structure, very stylish, I estimate the value of these timber Ersanshiwan. They pay for the construction of tens of thousands, of course, the whole family had to hands-on. The owner is very enthusiastic, but I could not help asking him on a good timber felling so many will not have problems? Old man smiled: There are cut card.
In any case, looking at so many places the original Yingzisashuang stands of trees in the forest root is a skinned, legislation or disorder in the foundations of lying on the ground is not too happy.
Under a darkening sky, while the color of the sky slowly from blue to dark blue. Dark blue background of the former, is becoming increasingly bright sky of the stars. The Star is one such plateau last year in Shangri-La, is also facing the sky for the stars big fat feelings. The city will never see such a brilliant Star of the.
I could not help but envy our simple guide, they can freely lay it under the stars breathing fresh air.
But the wizards are not the stars.
They are busy l bonfire, blazing fire mapping was glowing blush of each. Piled a large bundle of campfire wood-fire was called, although some of their dissatisfaction with the practice of felling of trees, but I am for them from the mountain Kang Xia such a heavy wood and surprise. There are full 200 kilograms looks ah!
"You have two people carry so much time down on it?"
"It's not two people that I have a man." Some of stiff guide老米said.
Days! If according to our so-called Meng donkey's standards, a person have to get the next four or five times so much wood can not, must also install the 85 liters of mountaineering bag. 老米believe that I almost did not say. He also did not further explanation. Until the next day, I saw老米with an old climbing rope once more wood back down, and I almost to mention all can not touch that tie guy, I dare to believe that this fact: the carrying power of老米at least three times as much ass so-called Meng.
Food is also good, and very simple, a big pot of rice, a big pot of potatoes, onion, cabbage, pumpkin mixture, as well as scones (they call it "bread"), there is no meat. Wizard were all Muslims, but did not eat beef and mutton, I am afraid that foreigners are more not used to. As for the taste, in the mountains, can have something to fill his stomach, and there are dishes with salt, pepper there is oil there, you can not have more wish for.
Eating rice, drinking tea and horses (the wizard who boiled a pot of black tea, green tea, boil that is out), and travel friends, chatting with the wizard. Wizard Laoyang English well, Although he has simple and honest look and soil were dregs of the dress (no exaggeration), and two foreigners who chatted days kinda fluent. In fact, apart from 51, 11 holiday, Colts received 80% of visitors are foreigners, it also groom their spoken English training provides an excellent condition.
Ronan and Jounies this right jolly little Irish couple, recently graduated, has found a job, at work, to travel before the lap. They have three weeks in China, and a trip to Beijing, Xian, Ningxia, Gansu, and then take bus to Songpan. They also plan to go to Tibet, Thailand, Singapore and Australia. Easily from their expressions and hearty laughter do not feel the slightest fatigue journey. This may be, and love the feeling of traveling together.
Wizard were singing folk songs, Irish couple singing their folk songs, we are casually hum pop songs. Horses on the beer and tea, around the campfire, we enjoy fresh cold and high altitude and warm warm night.
Hill, outside, people are enjoying the joy of football. Brazil and Germany is a decisive battle, friends say to me a good short communications and timely fighting. But this deep forests inside, what cell phone signals are not, TV is even more ambitious, said short-wave radios may be able to receive a pity that no one band, the wizard who are not fans.
They have already improtance tents. And we usually use aluminum bar, fiber pole tents not the same, this is to use wooden sticks that prop up the past four weeks Shuanhao a fixed rope, a large, squeeze squeeze can sleep six individuals. The following is not the end of, tents feet less than the ground, air leakage. But which has been covered with a thick layer of pine branches, then covered with mats and sleeping bags were, sleeping bags, blankets and robes there are still enough warmer. The pillow is to use the side saddle, just high enough, but there is heavy stock horse foul smell. In fact, both the robes, quilts, sleeping bags, backpacks, or we and even our own, have the same odor. Since we want to experience the caravan of life, you have to get used to the smell of.
July 1, the weather is very clear, blue sky without a trace of clouds, the weather is really good to see Xuebaoding.
Less than seven in the morning woke up. The temperature was low, but not so much frozen wake up, and will not wake up that was foul, as always feel that kind of taste more and more weight, Xunde my dizziness. Up in tents around the twisted my and found the side of the pillow in my tent, a few piles of fresh horse manure. Too hateful, and these Gongbaosichou guy, do not you climb yesterday riding it? Today, to have to ride them mercilessly pumped a few whip is not.
Riding from the camp headquarters of Xuebaoding approximately two hours, today is the last to see Xuebaoding and then down, so do not moving the camp, and a large backpack need not, to bring packet and the camera will do.
Today, horse riding is also a traveling light, no pack bags, riding his saddle directly, much more cool than it was yesterday. Therefore, although the mountain is more steep than yesterday and the spirit of the horse, without troops on the way to carrying our climbing. But I have not forgotten last night's grudge, he saw the horse before and after the walk a little slower rejection up getting a few lashes, they are only too happy to play up Zhicuan.
The more up-line, more and more low vegetation, shrubs and bushes have become the main landscape. Groups of yaks and goats, as scattered as the agate in the green hillsides.
The grass with a clusters of flowers in full bloom, whether it is large red, purple, pink, or yellow, blue and so on, each color is as bright dazzling, full dripping, far better than garden where delicate artificial colors, so we have a natural painter penetrating power of the plateau that coloring and amazing to Liulianwangfan.
Climbing the mountain for nearly two hours, finally came to a valley in the plains. A solitary wooden stand where the flag next to the fluttering streamers. The left side of a hollow wooden plaque on the identity of the "4300BAR".
This is the board Xuebaoding home base.
Possession of a small dog Huantiao the cavalry out toward us, it appears that it has used to meet the new faces.
Xuebaoding has no masking appeared in front of us. White pyramid-like jian particularly striking in the blue sky background. Peak 5588 meters from us are so close. The lowest at the snow line, it seems to run in the past will be able to forward to.
Snow-capped mountains under a vast roof revealing a clear mountain fault is estimated to be a huge avalanche, after the scene. Sure enough, the wizard said it was a few years ago that an avalanche of earth-shaking, saying that if there is no avalanche, under the snow slope Xuebaoding are complete, more beautiful than it is now. And now, can only be described kinds of cruel beauties.
A short break, we have a few to the left of the slope Paqu Xuebaoding, where the snow line from the last.
Is already more than 4300 meters high above sea level, when the horse does not feel that Paqi mountain to quickly breathless. I have been using the hands of chocolate biscuits to lure the dog with us, climb mountains, and little guys Kang Buzhu the temptation of food, but also Puchipuchi to climb with us. However, when approaching the end of the hillside, little guys can no longer attend to bulimia, and all the way bolted down, it will not strong guy, I really do not know the infinite beauty in the dangerous mountain peak.
To the top of the hill, eyes open one. A Bi-blue lake in front of us. Small lake, caught in the valleys, quiet and cold winter, the snow-capped mountains and the sky reflected upside. A pair of ducks skimmed from the surface of the lake, an instant it disappeared into the mountain side.
Hill, not all snow-capped mountains, at low latitudes are exposed more to the blue of the rock. Some, it is covered with broken rock slopes, looks like the scene after the landslide.
Three were so tired they never wish to leave, and I although tired, but would like to touch the lake across the snow line. Life, perhaps only this time the chance, I do not want to give up easily.
Mt can not turn on the switch to Lake bar.
So I walked alone along the lake.
Climbed over a slope, a bright eyes again. Originally thought to have been the end of the lake, I did not realize there is a lake. 2 Lake junction is very narrow, later did I learn this whole a lake called the "Dalian Sea", is to be linked up with the name of the two lakes.
This Xuebaoding, it Dalian sea, where a "Holy Mountain", "holy lakes." And I have felt that they broke the charm.
To sit down and look for stones in the lake, basking in the sun faint plateau. The Yak stopped grazing nearby, lined up, horns have been directed toward me, warily eyeing the uninvited guest. Suddenly thirty or forty meters away two gray things to move, was originally two large bird, "Gu Gugu" cried to the slope Pa Qu. Start not care, then I thought that two birds are not unusual, when they reach for the camera in my outside the range of the lens. After the guide told me down the mountain it was frozen chickens, the original is the scientific name "dark-bellied Tetraogallus" state two protected animals.
The snow line has been extended to the lake, is still of snow. Snow slope on the traces of a mess, it is estimated that the recent summit of the climbers left.
Biting cold water, even if they swim, they must not dare to water, not to mention it is holy lakes. Continued to have the stone on the hillside slide down a small road along the lake to go subtle, always worried about a landslide will get itself involved in the lake. At this time also too busy to think for a photo, quickly and carefully through this mountain was the most important.
Almost one and a half hours, and only then switch to end the entire lake. In the height of 4600 meters or so walk, than in plain tired of many really want to. Perhaps to mountain lakes are only a form of transfer, the real idea is to enter the mysterious and understand the heart of the mountain valley that had not been opened.
Back to base camp, the wizard who has been with Colts go on. Down the mountain can not be riding, too dangerous.
We can just go all the way, but also pat scenes photographed.
On the way home to rest in a Tibetan woman, He Naicha and chat. It turns out her house is down the mountain are "massive construction projects" of that home, the mountains are their pastoral, there are 100 head of cattle, usually there are three or four families live in this, put cattle and sheep, to the winter to go back to live. In fact, from their property and home run, can be said to be "hundreds of thousands of assets", but they are still used in the mountains, live in poverty and hard living a simple life. So think of a story: the young want to catch more fish, selling a better price, buy fishing boats, catch more fish, make more money, and then earns to buy villas in the countryside, over rich and busy life, a leisurely fishing; old fisherman was asked: I do not exactly live the leisurely pace of life?
Remains at the stars, Kaohuo.
The stars in a bright spot in the slowly moving, my God! I even saw a satellite! When one refers to them, but also very excited. There should be more than ten years have seen a satellite! A child is always in the yard, lying on the bamboo bed, counting today, saw several satellites, calculate luck tomorrow, and then Tuberose flower fragrance in the sleep and wake up my mother when the stomach is already covered by blankets. City high-rise balcony we could see the stars, but there will not be the kind of mood was lying there, a few thin, to distinguish which stars flashing satellite.
July 2. To feel confused all night in the rain, woke up gloomy days with rain has stopped.
Thought would sleep in the water, but not around very dry. Shop the wizard who had a very thick pine branches, and the rain does not come in dip.
I watched Guo Tao, can not help but laugh. His face and nose as before, like a bee sting swelling, more ridiculous is the lips, twice as thick than the original, like the two fresh-baked hot dogs, sausage; and look at my laughter from his point of view, I am no better去. Anyway, there is no mirror, the ugly on the Ugly bar. Estimated plateau UV drying, the Kaohuo roasted, and lit the. Guo Tao sleep position foot high head low, may be more led to the expansion of his head, poor handsome young man becomes a night of "Westward Journey in progress" The Pig. Guo Tao had to use his toothpaste, painted green needles on both sides of the thick lips to Reduce Pathogenic Fire, the results become even more ridiculous monsters.
In this way, in the Dangling on horseback, in the pound, a ring ding where, in the jagged mountain, in the leisurely far from the folk songs under the mask with a red inflamed swelling of us bid farewell to silent The Xuebaoding and that Youlan Dalian sea.
Back to the foot of the mountain, I realize that two nil win in Brazil, Germany, and that is something two days ago. Three days of the original life, for me, get, far more than lost.
Author: kirbydeng
