Sichuan-Tibet line
Do not mention past,
Life has been more wind and rain,
Although memory ineradicable,
Love and hate are still bottom of my heart,
You never really leave,
You are always in my heart,
I still love you,
I said to myself do nothing. . . . . . .
Gently puts on this song and think of half a month to the day, just get it back on the table are pictures of a myriad of thoughts.
Never thought of the road would be, he never imagined that would bring me such a big impact. Sichuan's Ganzi ah, let me now cherished place. Do not think that I contrived, do not think that I am hypocritical, since I think this is really a strong moved. Often after the journey can be able to find her Dongrenzhichu.
Benming This year is my year has been想出去走走. And this year things are more rough around since the change in mood also will be unhappy, or obvious. Day (9 / 18) sit test, that there will be 20 days before the holiday, hearts can not help but sigh: 20 Gee, how can boil ah! Happened to be in line to go to the Sichuan-Tibet learned Xu Mei, 21, the next day I called the early morning phone calls to her to determine the trip, booked my ticket. At this time I was a little heart failed at the end of the line, only know that the Sichuan Tibetan, very cold. I was lazy and did not want to examine the route, just follow other people walk, not to mention Xu Mei, I was a little bit about this person, and she will not go to a place worse to go there. Price is also my budget. Set the itinerary, the next is preparing equipment, I have only one and a half's time. I will first take a look at other people's travels and the Internet landscape description. An investigation, did not think this place kinda big, ten days to go then! Is actually produced in the local Kham guy! However, I have been interested in Kham guy, and asks them their heads the world's most powerful men in the title of it? There are snow-capped mountains to be seen, infinite vision of. . . . . . Pieces of equipment is not ready to worry a thing, good things really ridiculously expensive, inexpensive afraid bad bad to use, so stroll around in a circle with a point of a hodgepodge of luggage, and my heart murmured,无知者无畏, I do not believe that the professional equipment can not do without it! (Which proved fearless I was right) this thing as long as enough equipment, like, no need to buy less professional, people mountain people had nothing, not the same as living there. I bought a sealed bag, flashlight and whistle signals to spend no. But if enough money, buy some good things stimulate domestic demand driven, it is also a good one.
No. 21 early in the morning (Mid-Autumn Festival), I back luggage, and the attention of the residents in the district jumped into a taxi ceremony. One to the airport, do not look for will know that a large force, and his party are all big mountaineering bag, count the number of 16 individuals. And so on out of Chengdu Shuangliu Airport, the pace began to light the road on foot away excited about the future. On the 29 of the van, drive to Chengdu, this is my first visit to Sichuan, Chengdu and other major cities that No difference, except in the air has a hint of spicy flavor. In the afternoon, I sit and Xu Mei manpower tricycles visited the Chunxi Road and Qingyang Gong, try the Korean dumplings, Guo Kui, and some other spicy snacks. I realized that is really expensive clothes Chunxi Road (Shanghai expensive than that), people's lives more leisure, everywhere there are people who play mahjong. Night, I have a one in Chengdu, the students, so she took me to eat hot pot, look at the Chengdu nightlife.
22 At daybreak, starting from the hotel, went straight to Siguniangshan. Guide is only 17-year-old small group, Luding who looked a bit shy, people good. I can not remember the name, because he only accompanied us 3 days. Trucks have to turn the pa lang Peak, elevation 4,000, a car were not familiar, if not many who could have imagined that more than 10 days, we and what are Nanfennanshe. I am sleepy in the car, in the pa lang peak time, lips purple, chest feel oppressed, I know this is reaction to high altitudes. Car window faction blanketed by trees, the ridge is covered with thick snow, the air coolish. I started to open the backpack, to put on thick clothes, who would have imagined that this is a ten-day did not wear off. Car driving in the mountains, an old saying: one into the Hou's door is like the sea, I say: one into the Ganzi (Aba) all mountain, this mountain, Hill, mountain sets of mountains, not simply one end. May stay in the city a long time, I opened wide his eyes for fear of missing the beautiful, too beautiful! Mind also will open up and yelled several more like he was to be the plateau reaction that scared the back. Car to Siguniangshan, transfer scenic bus, dressed in national costumes up an attraction guides, He looked like one of my Beijing friends, chatting, and he also sang the song "Love Boat Tracker", How many pieces the way they rub his cigarette. Siguniangshan of the beautiful snow-capped mountains, so I'm excited for the first time see the snow-capped mountains, picking up a camera according to a non-stop, especially hunters peaks shining in the sun, under the vague shapes of clouds, blue sky really clouds. Car via scenic spots, there are hawkers and dressed in national costume who tout for business, accompanied by Liang Wei girls who ate roast leg of lamb (after eating hurt). In the final one attraction, a local tour guide who told me, and I do not know what is going on, they ran past, I did not realize that he together with the driver and another guide took me a few lifted up into the air, screaming for help, I know what to do, and afterwards he was Tell me, and I enjoyed them the most courteous reception, but it really scared me. Now think about it, I would like to say thank you to him, that he let me to remember a beautiful Siguniangshan. Is one such day, he encountered a different visitors each day, I only met him one. The evening, at the foot of the hotel Siguniangshan, I still feel a little gasp, even the bath did not dare to wash, from the bed Shimoji feel chest pain, and think about really useless to sleep in early.
23 am to continue to travel Siguniangshan Chang Ping Gou, we do not have horse riding, walking is the Plank Road, 7 km back and forth. Way is to use wooden ride, the uphill Fortunately, downhill a bit slippery. Side is a jungle, ear is the water murmur. My strength is not very good, that the small group Jiugen Luding behind me, chat with me, and to remind my attention to the foot. What impressed me most is that he read the safety by using the Tibetan language, listening to slowly delivered, exceptionally ear. In the withered beach, I saw the dead trees standing in water, it is a powerful witness of life. Afternoon, the car move on, destined for Danba. In the Danba county, and we drank butter tea and yogurt, in fact, we all understand that this is only for tour guides to increase revenue, and good in others, well, a few dollars just do not care, not to mention tonight, he will, and we parted. To tell the truth I was really good impression of him, I really do not want him to retire. Car to a home Tibetan villages, there is still a way off, car is can not go, and could only walk. A home that night's accommodation is a Tibetan villages. Mountain winds, just Xiaojin River, and then walk for ten minutes I do not see the Village, and asked the road repair workers, who said laughingly: "into the fast, as well as 500 meters." Gee! Do not believe the distance from the Montagnards view! Facts have proved that a full 1 km. Xu Mei and I walked side by side in the mountain, stop-go, from time to time breathing. Reached the destination, the owner invited us to sit down in the hall, there is a woman dressed presented hada. At this moment, I saw a real tour of our trip --- Gordon true. A Tibetan man and my age. Gave me the impression that he was not very good, people are disgraced, and long hair, look there are 27, 8. The most interesting is the possession of the home to the toilet, where is the toilet, is simply part of the cow in your time of acting behind him there is a cow watching you, and put a lot of the tour was shocked. The children there are also dirty, but the dark eyes bright, a trace of Yi Gu honest, I hugged them, and the bag of chocolate given to them. That night I ate two Danba apples, really fragrant and sweet, but added Tibetan meal of noodles is difficult to eat, it is too out of oil, there are hosts who looked the highland barley wine, I drank seven consecutive bowl, At that time only feel that taste good, I did not realize highland barley wine stamina is enough, soon felt a bit dizzy the first had to climb up the roof closed. On the roof, I saw the sunset, the sunset in the mountains and villages appear serene and harmonious. At night, the village people from our group as far away as the guests prepared bonfire party, bonfire party was held in the village primary school, and worse than I imagined more. However, both to the security of, and I sang two songs, I recall that one is "winding the moon", which one: Why Today's villages singing songs in the past. Let me think about a lot. A group of people, young and old around the bonfire dance, Tibetan dance, it is difficult to learn, I have spent a lot of thoughts, or do not keep up, and had to follow blindly where the fiddle. Subsequently, the tour laugh at me, said Tibetan people to follow I do not know how to dance well, and the pace of the others are messed up. Finally, in the moonlight, we have the name of flashlight, in the dog barking in the dragging was grueling legs of Tibetan dance and high spirits return. Before going to bed, I wait for this strange Kurai, with the camera this colorful wall paintings recorded. Middle of the night, I woke up once, saw the moon shining through the wood fence sprinkled on the bed, let my heart filled with Yi Gu who are true to the melancholy.
24. Got up early in the morning, morning mist has not yet dissipated, on the roof in front of the Castle Peak hair, suddenly reminded of the phrase "the depths of someone in the family, Bai Yun." Take a look at the tour are still grooming, there are girls still face makeup, it is necessary to know from that day, I had never seen her of makeup, and a later date with all there is no guarantee of cleanliness. Back luggage, along the mountain road yesterday to return, this time to go is not as tired as when, watching the dawn of the cottage, Castle Peak, streamer go away. On the bus, I sat in the front row is the tour guide behind the seat. Car speakers ringing of Tibetan music, the heart of the children are happy to leisurely. Because away from the tour guide sitting near, I looked from him, and makes it seems that he is still full of handsome, Nongmeitaiyan, teeth because of the relationship between smoking a little yellow, but it looks like a good laugh to see. Suddenly I heard him singing, "the bluest of blue sky, quiet lake 。。。。。"。 He excitedly told me that is in front of his home, he had not been home for six months. Car to his door, he was almost the whole people are out the window, facing the family desperately waving. I saw his face all smiles on their faces, when I think I was kind to me that he is an innocent smile revive a feeling impressed. Way to an undeveloped hot springs, we also get off bubbles of the feet or the water is very hot, where there is a long-haired Tibetan men are taking a bath, we had women at the periphery of the compatriots on. Looked at the morning the towers known as the Leaning Tower of Pisa the East, because the sun is too bright, I see them Sha Dumo. Other side of the mountain was not very good along the way there are people in the road. In the U.S. the way to eight, there is an asphalt being poured, to delay about 1 hour. Our itinerary is very tight, get off and workers on the board to discuss true he can put us in the past, when the answers are negative, we are very disappointed, had to get off so easily take a look at the opening. Suddenly I saw the figures of road work the board really, in order to be able to walk as soon as he and his work together in moving gravel road. This is not his share of the live呀! In the midday sun under the hard labor is not a good errand. I think another really good, could not bear to look at the edge, but also stepped forward to move a bit. Incidentally, the majority of road work composed by women, where women, too powerful! The car bumps along the road and the board really chat about a lot of Tibetan custom. Tibetan in my impression that the original was a barbaric and backward nation, did not think there are also splendid ancient culture. It seems there is no need to have civilized Han Chinese itself arrogant. The way we sing a lot of songs, in the beautiful scenery in a song and laughter. I remember the most interesting is that Gordon really taught us to sing Tibetan songs, I obstinately messing up the lyrics to sing into a "bottom rotting sheep, sheep's tail is also rotting," laughed my Zhibuqiyao come. To the tower of public grasslands, beautiful scenery I was stunned, eyes and so is the blue sky, white clouds, peaks, mountains, meadows, pastures, there are leisurely strolling the grasslands of the yak and Wrangler. Picturesque in the sunshine dream, I really want to cry a few tricks the body of the King voice. Then I also see a natural stone forest, lying in the window before the excitement was palpable. Nearly 6:00, when to lhakang, I learned to Tibetan custom of turning around the temple drum, all the way to switch a junction to study the sixth mantra. Lhakang rolling snow-capped mountains behind, there are many Western tourists sat quietly watching on the mound, around me there are Tibetans devoutly turn by the elderly. Then suddenly my mind flashed a thought, if someday tired, nothing else to go, we sit here a daze, it is time to do more than the United States! Tower of public murals can be magnificent temple Xuanmu to describe, I have to go out immediately thanks to the worship Buddha. Dark when we went to the xinduqiao, the largest prison in Sichuan Province is located here. In the clean sweep like finishes dinner, I found my altitude sickness had disappeared, it seems people are to have a period of adjustment. And my appetite is also surprisingly good, just a few days did not get a bath, a little accustomed to.
September 25. The past few days in Sichuan, learn a foreign non-cavity non-Sichuan accent, nothing on the front of a fellow drill, did not expect early in the morning, it was the kitchen of a master called "Yaomei children, hot water, in this, uh !, "made me half a day did not fascinating stats. The longest day of the trip was a total of more than 400 kilometers, on the way to turn the four more than 4000 meters above sea level snow-capped mountains. No light is necessary to set off the days. My sleeping bag is new, opened after the plug does not matter how hard to go back, anxious to find someone to help me everywhere, and later, or plug board really helped me, and since then it became his daily morning an extra job. That we are from 6 am on the train at the xinduqiao until 9 pm more years to Inagi, the way Britain was almost necessary to Dunong scattered bones of the body, and even the board really can not stand is also cramped interior space, from time to time The extension Shen Yao, rising uncertainly legs, a change in position. The morning when the car'll replace oil, we are on the road to rest. I have found a better roadbed next to unknown grass, and the board really play fighting on the grass, as if back to childhood. There is also a good long-distance driving is that you are having to go to the toilet easy to see where the grass tall or have a natural land package on the line, this than in the stink to high heaven, and everything is offal of the latrine is much easier, but also heard a lot of nature sounds, such as the calls of birds, streams, and so the sound啦. The car on the road, as long as there is passing through villages, where the students will automatically give us line of Young Pioneers Team ceremony, according to Gordon, said it is true teacher, the Tibetan folkways plain obvious. We are also kicking up clouds of strange uneasy, all the way waving salute and engage in the same inspections as the leader. Car to 4659 meters above sea level of scissors curved mountain, we stop taking pictures in the snow, I actually saw a blue flower in full bloom. Snow white and blue color in the flowers, how could people lamented the stubborn and beautiful life! Mary also does the snow pile and the streamer toward the wind, the streamer with flying colors, although the cold is a cold point, but my mind was like the sun in June. Away from the city of Litang in world there is a plateau near the highest elevation of the radar station is located in China. Close to 3:00 pm, when we to the Litang. Was not lunch, we found a house is messy paste snack bar eating a bowl of dumplings, leek dumplings go there thought the taste of really fragrant, I do not know hunger worse, or that it tastes really good. I only remember that the shop is called "Sun snacks division." In Litang also visited the famous temple of the Yellow Sect - Ker temple. The ancient Temple stood in front of mottled look inside is a magnificent hall, prayer flags flapping in the wind, the golden roof, under the brilliant blue sky outside is a small town under snow-capped mountains. You enter the Temple, I also pay homage to some followed, I discovered that Gordon really have donated out of the small change, such as in what to pray. Later I learned that he was in prayer bon voyage, but when I was unable to feel the journey was dangerous. In the temple entrance is learning how to ride a bike there is a group of small lamas, but also be regarded as a landscape. The next journey is very tough on the road more and Britain, is not dark for a long time to see the destination. Adoption and posted here really chat, I found him, motivated, courageous, outspoken quality. We have also become more familiar with, did not take long to rub his cigarette smoke, was kind enough to wish he had learned how to put tobacco smoke and understanding of the half-point argument. When I knew that his idol is actually Coco Lee and Osama bin Laden, I almost laughed bifurcation of the gas. We are talking about their hobbies, hearsay stories, sports, politics, war, anything to talk about to kill the time. 9:00 more time, finally to Inagi, we live in Inagi County home, were still in power outages, the room, only candles, do not see what the mood first thing that strikes like a wildfire. One heard that night hot springs bubble of excitement can not jump backward in the. After a hurried dinner (a real sense of the dinner, and then a late night snack is necessary to count), during which I also drank a small cup white wine, after dinner went to the car flew into the hot springs. There, I realized that what is meant by disappointment, where is the hot springs, is simply a few rough cement jars, like using the words of a peer, and septic tanks Meisha different. After experiencing some of the ideological struggle, I decided to look inside, or jumping, for several days without a bath, and too busy to think much. Life is a matter of choice can be when you do not have choice, can only go with the flow of. That night at the county home, I slept very fragrant, really tired.
26, this way, I am most tough day. Morning at the Daocheng county home's yard read glow, the air quite fresh. After seeing Gordon really took four bags of oxygen on the train, I do not care, because I could not even anti-altitude sickness in Rhodiola no eating, although my physical condition is not good, but the willpower is still strong, and should be able to get over it . Cass destination is the village that day. They pass through a village called terracotta, terracotta village primary school in front of cars paused, happened to a female teacher in the village, she told me where is the terra in Tibetan Zhao Geban mean. At that time, I think, who fed nothing to do, to then go into the ditch with a Qiongshan呀! I found little more to the poor and remote village, the Tibetan flavor more strong and was little more trace of localization. I really do not know that our so-called developed and advanced to help them or destroy them. Around noon, the car to Aden, where was hailed as the last Shangri-La. Village Inn in Aden the wall, I can see better message Mix from across the country, let me mind a fever, feel in themselves are the Yu Chunshun like heroes. But then suddenly I find myself in poor health, perhaps the last night of hot springs bubble Meng, and I became very sick a little bit, but also accompanied by a fever-point, in order not to sweep others Xing, and I did not dare to say, lunch only eat a small bowl of noodles. Since the last of the plateau, in addition to anti-altitude sickness medicine did not eat, as long as I eat Han medicine, just like sugar. I did not expect was ill. I sat in Aden, Yan Yan Inn, watching the accompanying distribution of dry food in, I knew the next few days should be spent inside the mountain, but there will be no cell phone signal. To reproduce the order of luggage, according to peer-boss's instructions, to be able to unload without the things on the car, traveling light. Each of us in advance of the dry food is good, and 4 packets of instant noodles, five ham, as well as mustard, fortified biscuits, canned food and chocolate. I was a little lofty sentiments and aspirations were gone, people find it very difficult subject, led me feel in the share of dry food is not like to travel, but rather go to jail with hair. Gordon really had not been to Cass village, he found a local guide, Ming Jiaodeng really Zaba, in order to distinguish the two board really, I have put below what he called Zaba. Zaba only 18 years old this year, looking honest and honest. Cass from Aden to the mountain village, 28 kilometers to go there, I noticed that the board really has changed at this time a pair of Jiefang Xie. The original van can not open that kind of mountain, Tang really began to look around the car. To go first to the jeep, but only two, we have 16 people plus two guides simply can not be arranged to sit down, only to give up. Gordon really has found a two farm tractor, we have grouped sit, baggage put the middle, people sit on both sides, can be and that is very crowded, but also extremely insecure, but also to give up. Deng really back and forth finally recruited a farm truck, that is, the way we see the kind of yak shipped before finally arranged. I first sat next to Gordon really, I always felt a sense of security from his near point would be. A car were huddled, sit sit, stand station, lying on the lying, Han posture are. A small car in the countryside was particularly powerful way to Britain, soon the whole body aches. Road, become increasingly narrow in some places does not count as road, just walk a little more just. Along the way and danger several times faster wheel to fall out of a cliff, it is necessary to know the bottom can be that is the abyss ah. Would also like to walk from time to time, or the car launch pit. The car were very nervous, in order to ease the tense atmosphere in the car, we made strong for Huan, joking banter, so I really appreciate the collective dauntless hero ism and optimism. See that Gordon really very nervous, his eyes looking straight ahead, hands has been placed on the amulet. Thus opened not long day of rain, we linked up awning. Canopy the rain was stopped, and could be the car has become a very feel oppressed, floods an gasoline. Fortunately, I sat in the rear of the vehicle, lifted a corner of the awning, you can breathe, suddenly I saw a rainbow, is really the kind of mountain rainbow after the rain, can be considered to be the phrase "no experience of wind and rain, how rainbow. " I took out the camera, in the rain shelter opened a corner where it shot down. Still later, as I really could not stand, it changed into the cabin to sit her surprise, inside the cab is also very crowded, in addition to the driver should take three individuals, my waist had Niuzhuo, not daring to move about. Afterwards, the tour told me that the driver was a novice, it opened two and a half months, this road is the first time to go. I could only sigh: survived, there must be after the blessings. Car to Cass village, Xu Mei told me that the first sentence is "finally get off alive." From Aden to the Cass village this road, so we've never gone through portraits, farm trucks, is the first time, the team was the first time visitors, the driver is the first time, and even the guide is the first time, opened the trip can be considered first of its kind. Cass is the first time the village also received visitors, we must stay the night at the Cass mukhtar of the village's house. Cass village is a small, remote villages, the entire village, a total of only 27 people, the village head conditions are best regarded as a family, and I did not expect, or let us shocked. One into the courtyard, all over the floor weeds and Shini, pushing the door into the house (which was later dubbed the tour LOBBY), not live to see a person's place, is actually cattle shed, cattle ah, chicken ah, the whole pig呀In the inside to welcome us. The middle one with the whole tree carving into the stairs, hands and feet up the stairs only to the residence. The edge of the room is a large fireplace, is a life, a fire for cooking and heating is also a place. I found the villagers here, actually it was barefoot, many elderly people no shoes. We respect everyone around the fireplace sat on the floor, foam dinner bowl of instant noodles counted. I thought anyway, here only one night, tomorrow morning we will cross the point opposite the village Cass Valley of Hell. I did not expect, the village head actually tells us that the original pack to be ready by tomorrow, not in the village and crosses of the horses, is still hell Valley apart, Wang Dan. So really the decision Deng night over the mountains to go to the horses called back, and good the next day starting on time, or else give up the valley crossing the hell trip, turn back Aden. At this time, to start talking about the tour, we spent a boss's enthusiasm, finally from Aden to the Cass village, and thus not delivered certainly can not be justified, may be called back to the night Gordon real horse? Even if called back, hurry will certainly be tired horses the night, not to mention the mountain all day tomorrow, there is a way to go. All the issues are in front of us, Left the next village had decided to stay two nights Cass, it tries the next day. We have decided to fight on the ground floor house in the village, 16 people live in a crowded, did not expect so many bedding mayor has not had to mobilize the village households to donate their quilt bedding. We fell asleep colored blanket, wrapped in sleeping bags, can be considered to enjoy a communist. Since I am not feeling well, have been preferential treatment, you can sleep only three beds in one, replacing sleep on the floor a hard time. Cass village of electricity is supplied from 19:00 to 11:00, the village head home electrical appliances apart from light bulbs, that is, a 14-inch color TV and VCD of. Xu Mei find TV too noisy, put the TV off, and did not think Zaba told me this whole village by village head of television signals to Taiwan to launch this at home. I hastened to the village chief sent for re-boot, we are subject to noisy point does not matter, the whole village can not be deprived of the right to the enjoyment of entertainment呀! Late at night, when I look under the bed squeezed in a row to do a group of brothers and sisters to sleep, there is room smoked flavor, a deep sigh, thinking about tomorrow, my body will get better, fans fan ambiguous way to fall asleep. But that night, Gordon really sitting outside drinking a lot of wine, I know he did not want our trip, after being towed, but also do not want to suffer the loss of his travel agency, but who wants that? We may assume that is the God to give us an experience of a bar!
9 / 27, which is an interesting day. Early morning wake up, I felt much better. May be posted really looks a lot obviously gaunt, bearded and long, and were more dark. In the village house is not a very easy and convenient thing, except in the courtyard where, that is, on the roof, the village does not have a toilet. The beginning we still are not used to, gradually flattering to everyone, Who should be on the咱conditions, no conditions have to? Breakfast and I do not want to eat instant noodles, and tried to taste the village head home buttered tea and tsampa, pinch Zan rake is a very fun piece to do, like playing with mud like a skin. At this time that I found myself becoming very dark crevices of the nails, a few days without a good wash, and want a non-dirty, hard-na! Cass villages do not have telephones, let alone cell phone no signal, nor even a fixed-line telephone, which can be called a real blind spot it! The morning, some of the group went to see the village's elementary school, I did not go. They told me they saw, the realized the urgency of the Hope Project. Subsequently, I and everyone went to see the mountains across from a Xiaohaizi (Hai Zi: high mountain lakes), really beautiful, although small, there is a special beauty. The whole village is very quiet, although lagging behind, but it is harmonious and quiet, free from secular disturbance, only one water mill in the non-stop but orderly Mozhao barley. I asked Gordon true: "This kind of life you had before?" He replied, "my house 84 years ago to do, it was many years ago, and I've been unable to meet the." Zaba said to me later in the village people among us a man with a pot was very curious about the city people can not understand how such a big belly, president once again laugh my asthma is not angry. Afternoon time, nothing better, we play cards together, a total of three tables. We sat cross-legged, and is pretty laid-back, let me recall the situation in rural areas to the New Year. I posted really at the table playing cards, he is obviously not fine this Road, I'll make fun of him stupid. In order to improve food in the evening, when Deng really bought from the villagers in the hands of two chickens, but he does not actually kill the chickens, he said that hunting line he could kill a chicken with a knife he was not, Fortunately, there was a group there is housewife Sister of experience to run for, be considered without getting poor fowl, by his inhuman sufferings of the好惨. I am also on the fireplace for everyone to speculation of a White Lotus (that is, the city cabbage). After the meals get Tingdang time, only heard someone cried, "for a meal myself!", A crowd of people swarm in, not five minutes put a pot of chicken soup carved out. Everyone, or squat, or sit, quickly Pazhao bowl of rice. I asked Gordon true, "Have you seen wolf?" He replied, smiling, "the present is not it?." That Burton really let me forget to eat dinner, let me also strengthened the determination to leave as quickly as possible, I know and then stay that animals have to suffer in the village. I noticed that two tour guides have been greeted us to eat can be almost not eaten anything of their own. After dark, we sleep very early, because we know that tomorrow there is a more difficult journey ahead of us.
28, today, our main itinerary is a climb to hell valley, arrived in camp Chong Gu Temple. Before their departure, let us draw lots to determine the village head mounts. Because of the horse, mule, there is a big one also has a small one of the. In order to fully reflect the fair, just and open principles, but to take this most primitive and most effective approach. I was lucky the only one able to get into a white horse, looking a bit gray coat, you may not like me, have a bath in a few days. Whitehorse has more than 10 years old, and groom looked good. Horse's name is called "cue", groom called "Sino-Yong" is a middle-aged Tibetans, is a horse a little bit cold. End mount points, less than 8:00, we hit the road. I have taken the lead, looking behind him, large group tour or in rickety mule or horseback ride, accompanied by caravans unique ring tones, Shashi spectacular. A total of 20 animals, 16 pack of people, and the remaining pack luggage. Hell Valley have less tourists, is the primary forests, virtually no one lived. Mountains and heavy moisture, not the next point Shihai light rain, I put on a white raincoat, hindsight The pictures, like the ghost of the valley. Yachi towering old trees, there are a variety of vegetation, especially those long hanging tree, hanging in the branches, glittering. Mountains and mist are also great, not when the sun, everything is hazy gloomy, and really like to hell in general. Horse Tuozhuo I walk through the narrow winding path trail, groom at the head of holding horses, horse and hurry from time to time shouting. Lane has a plateau cries unique taste, soon, we have learned to drive mules sounds. Because it is uphill, long after the horse began to breathe on his body started sweating. Horse's breathing growing, the white smoke from the nostrils of the heat, the altitude is also getting higher and higher. I have no intention to see King, and I clutching tightly to the reins, with the ups and downs of adjusting the sitting position hillside. Mountain is very steep, one could hear really posted on me that if you feel Buxing Liao, be sure to me. Today, we have to turn the magic altitude of 4,700 meters, crossing mountain home. At that time I do not have a little mountain sickness, but if Mashiqianti fear of falling down the hill to go. Fortunately, my white horse good as gold, all the way to go is very stable, groom also take care of me all the way, every time I launched dismount all embracing. I just sailed a walk take a rest, to an elevation of 4,700 meters Yakou. Yakou the road is too dangerous, the wind in particular, could not be riding off, on and helped groom me before, go soon, I think I like the White Horse, like that big mouth breathing. Hey, take this road who is not easy呀! The way I eat a piece of hard tack boxes, and power was on lunch. I most admire is one of the only female groom, she also like a man as hard-working, Who says women than men? Exactly. Deng is also really go tired, his hands with a tree branch, head width along the cap has been all wet, and can still run up and down greeting us pay attention to safety. Finally a late afternoon pedestrians safely down the mountain, and through Xian Nairi Kamiyama, when all of them solace. Further down is a pearl sea, where I took a lot of photos, snow-capped mountains and green trees reflection in the clear lake, and simply do not appear in the human world. 7 points more than when we washed it to the Valley Temple camp, at that time I had put my very skilled in riding a white horse. Chong Gu Temple, said the camp, that camp, but worthy of the name is a local backpackers rest, there are many self-help young people travel there, Among them, mostly Cantonese. Where we live is a big tent, which opened with a few Kieda stopped, it is naturally divided into Nanzuonvyou, in addition to bed had nothing. But for those of us who come from the village of Cass is already pretty good. The tour, someone found a home beside hotel, we immediately cheered up, and regardless of the price level, and a point of a large table with food Mengchi a pass. But I immediately regret it, because I found my excretory function became very powerful. From that day after dinner the next day morning, I sang a total of five times great song, can toss me suffer. The most painful is still under the heavy rain the night, from the tents to stay there are tens of meters of mud simple Cabaret little way to go, every time I go to are really not survive the circumstances, out of tents, the dark bold enough to go to karaoke alone, exclusive share of Later Han Feng Xiaoxiao, the rain Xi Lek in mood. Gordon really is a day after more than ten to the camp, he was more than we walked three hours to walk out to the front of the room and board. I saw him back when the whole body were Jiaotou of rain. That night, I was almost in despair usher in the dawn.
On the 29th trip of my most memorable day. Finally bright days, I have also photographed the glow of the photo. With yesterday's experience, I would not dare eat the breakfast. An early nest tents in the camp administrator Kaohuo, Zaba, and Deng really are there, from time to time also come scoop water. This time came a man in Guangzhou is also the backpacker, I have no one to one chatting up his words. When he learned that I am going to the Milk Sea (elevation 4,800 meters), and colored the sea (elevation 5,300 meters), he told me: "The young girl, tell you to go there on a word - value, it is too beautiful, you不去会终生后悔的。”我想今天就尽量做到不后悔终生吧，只要体力还行，就爬上去看看。 8点不到，我还是骑着昨天的马，先到洛绒牛场。路比昨天的要好走多了，我对白马也驾轻就熟了，一路我骑的可欢了。到洛绒牛场下马，就直奔牛奶海。脚下的路先是湿草地，有点像沼泽，让我想起当年红军长征，不过我们现在可要比当年好多了，至少我们没吃皮带、野草。因为脚有点发软，在过湿地的时候，我跌了一跤，左腿都陷进淤泥中了，在登真的帮助下好不容易拉出来，我的鞋已经全湿了。当时的我很狼狈，想想自己有点出师不利。山路越来越难走，一会儿是小溪，一会儿是烂泥，要不就是乱石。我气喘得也越来越急，很快就被拉在队伍的后头。还好有扎巴，他一路用手扶着我，我啥风景都没看，那时我也管不了那么多了，双眼只盯着脚下，遇到险要的地方扎巴就把我连拖带拽地拉着走。我看到前方徐梅耀眼的黄色雨衣已经离我越来越远了。脑子里只有一个念头，怎么还没到呀，我不行了。当时有一位团友宣布退出，决定先原路返回，有人问我要不不要和他一起先走，我没有同意。已经走了1/3的路了，就这么退回去太不值了。一路上我也不知道歇了几回，刚开始还能在心里默唱着歌谣，到后来就连说话的力气也没有了。别人和我说话，我只能点头或摇头，声音在此刻已经成了我自己都听不清的“气声”了。团友递给我西洋参，我把它含在舌下，这一招很管用，我好像好一点了。到了下午一点钟光景，我在一个叫舍身岩的山坡上休息。我已经看不到前方的队友了，他们的身影超出了我的视线。我觉得我整个人都要虚脱了，我一手扶着登真砍的树枝做拐杖，一手拉着扎巴，一步一晃。当时，我见到前方有一块巨石，不管三七二十一就往上靠，整个人就仰卧在上边，天空飘着细雨，我睁开眼睛望着头顶上灰蒙蒙的天，只觉得自己比死人多一口气。扎巴告诉我前面再翻一个山坡就到了，我也没理他（是理不动他了），不知道自己在那块巨石上躺了多久，当时我想了很多，想着就算在这里失足掉下去也无所谓了，人生自古谁无死，能在这样的室外桃园里也不错啊！当我重新上路的时候，我不停地给自己打气，看着脚下的陡坡，忽然悟出一个道理：山路崎岖并不可怕，忍一忍也就过去了，而且还是移步换景。人生的路要是走的累了，要换一个心境，才叫难啊！想着想着我如同获得新生般，我的体力已经超负荷，可是思路却变的清晰，人在此时已经是处在麻木的机械状态了。一点半左右，我终于到了牛奶海，好大的一个海子呀！水是淳绿色的，远处看还真像牛奶。我这才想起来我有点饿了，从口袋了掏出压缩饼干。雨水、泥水混着汗水，我身上几乎湿透了。大部分的队友已经到了好一会儿了，我是最后一个。没过多久，登真开始询问有几个人要去五色海，其余的人原路返回。我也报名了，连我一共有7个人要去。队友中有人对我说：“你的脸色很差，就别去了，上面更危险，这不是逞强的事。”我这时候什么也听不进去了，想想自己既然如此了，再累一点也不还就是这样，我就算拼了命也要上，如果这点苦都承受不了，以后我还会有勇气吗？我要给自己一个肯定。开始登真也不同意我上，但知道我牛脾气上来了，他也只好无奈同意。我们一行向海拔5300米的五色海进发。天空开始飘雪，雪愈下愈大，地上开始积雪。登真手把手拉着我。这段路不是很长，应该说这不是路，是顺着山脊爬上去的。过了大约有十几分钟，登真告诉我到了。我不敢相信我能到五色海。队友们让我走在前头，他们要让我第一个到达。当一大片湖水映入眼帘的时，我觉得自己身处梦境。此刻我再也忍不住激动的心情，不争气的眼泪开始往下掉。登真问我：“你怎么哭啦？”，我哽咽着回答：“我没有哭，只是我忍不住呀！”。我激动的不能自已。天空中的雪花像鹅毛一样，飘飘洒洒。登真脱了鞋，卷起裤管，走进湖中，突然间我觉得他好美，这一幕深深地印在我的心底。我把手也伸进湖水，掬起一捧湖水来洗脸。大家都表现的很兴奋。我们狂奔，向天空，向远处的圣山发出心底的呐喊。并用相机记录下这一切。忽听的登真说：“听，雪崩的声音！”。大家都静下来，竖起耳朵倾听，真的，是真的，我们听到了雪崩的声音！这是大自然给予我们的奇妙享受。我们身上的雪都积起一层了，激动过后，我们决定折返。回去的路变的更不好走，因为积雪很厚很滑。我要感激同行的施先生，他让我把脚踩在他的脚上。徐梅因为鞋底滑，已经连摔了2跤，登真把他一路拖下山，她就像在坐滑梯一样。随后，登真又返回，要把我背下去。我开始想拒绝，因为这样一来他会很累，可是此时我靠自己的能力根本下不了山。只好伏在他的背上。这是我和他最亲密的一次接触了，虽然只有短短的4、5分钟。我伏在他的背上，不敢睁开眼睛，手脚冰凉。耳边是他的喘息声，还闻到一股淡淡的汗味。那一刻，我想我真的是喜欢上这个藏族男人了。 Thank you!登真。到了看的见山路的地方，我们各自自行下山。下山时我变的体力奇好，一路跋山涉水，轻松走过。回到洛绒牛场时，我觉得自己已经不像人形了，浑身上下没一处是干的，像才从泥水里捞出来。为了把我们拉下的那一天行程补回来，我们决定当天回稻城。在坐了20分钟的马之后，还要再步行4公里回亚丁，面包车在那里等我们。在那段步行的路上，我走的飞快，途中对每一个正在上山的旅友都翘起拇指，说“你真棒！”。可他们看我的眼神有点怪，可能是从没见到过像我这么脏的人吧！为了解乏，我向团友要了一支烟，边走边抽，有一队人马用好奇的目光打量我，他们准是没想到，这么脏的女孩还抽烟！我第一个奔下山去，看到了那辆熟悉的面包车，手机也开始有信号了，让我深感回到文明社会的喜悦。巴扎在车前迎我们，我一句话也没说，上前就给了他一个热烈的拥抱。大家在车上感慨万分，像是重回人间。在车内，我想起今天所经历的事，所看到的美景，简直无法用言语来形容，现在想起，还是一阵激动。晚上10点多的时候，才重新到了稻城县长家，同时也对我们的中途向导扎巴说再见。今天晚上是无论如何如何也要洗个澡了，晚饭过后，我们决定去当地最豪华的温泉洗澡。因为有上次的经验，我决定今天洗淋浴。可稻城的温泉还是让我失望了，那水冷得很，在水龙头底下我抖抖缩缩，只听见我的牙齿在哆缩。等我洗完了“冷泉”，已经是半夜了。那一夜，我睡得无比香甜。
9/30。早上告别了3位团友，他们要从稻城直接去中甸，我们就此分手。隐约中我提前感触到了离别的忧伤。车子继续前行，今天一整天我们差不多都要在车上度过，从稻城回新都桥，车程400多公里，全是山路。一车人已经很熟悉了，平时大家都生活在都市，也常常为了一些生活的琐碎事情斤斤计较，可是在旅途中却又变的无私互助。我真想放下一切，就呆在这里不走了。可我知道我是有这个心，没这个胆的。当我们再见雪山的时候，已经没了初见雪山时的那种兴奋。我的心里泛着忧伤，我知道我们相聚的时间不多了。一路上，我见到美景就拍，努力地想留下些什么。天黑以后，车重新又到了新都桥。在吵杂的饭店，和一群即将启程的旅友一同用毕晚饭，就上床睡觉。睡前和同房的团友一起聊天，我们聊了一路的趣事，笑个不停，久久不肯睡去。
10月1日，今天是国庆节。可因为好几天都在山里转，也感受不到什么节日的气氛。上午去康定，到康定的时候，我买了好多旅游纪念品。毕竟是几天没花钱了，好歹也要满足一下购买欲。上车后发现登真换了套新衣服，吹了个发型，胡子也刮干净了。惹的我们一帮女生大叫帅哥，真的是很帅。下午游木格措，那里的开发已经较具规模，门票很贵，景致还算不错，不过同原始森林相比，我已经对她没什么兴趣了。木格措在汉语的意思里就是“野人海”。进到景区门口，一大群拉生意的马夫从山上向我们猛冲过来，那架式真的让我们领略到了什么叫野人，吓得我直往登真身后躲。游毕木格措，向海螺沟进发。海螺沟是登真工作的主要地方，我笑说那里是他的地盘。他对海螺沟真的很熟，还在那里给国家领导人做过讲解。天擦黑后，我们才到海螺沟，登真介绍说这里有最棒的天然露天温泉，已经受了两次温泉之苦的我们将信将疑，一大半人不肯再去。我思想斗争了一下，还是决定去试试。这一次真的没再让我失望，2号营地的温泉豪华而又舒适，是我这次旅程中最好的享受。泡在温泉里，头顶上是苍穹，眼前还有雾气，很爽！把几天来的疲劳一扫而光。那夜，我们住宿在3号营地，是一幢欧式风格的别墅建筑。我不禁感叹：这里真是一个度假的好去处！很遗憾的是我没能和登真一起像我们曾经约好的那样喝酒聊天，我没料到第二天我们就要分手。
10/2。一清早接到叫早电话，说有日照金山可看。我迅速套上衣服，拿着相机就出门。日照金山只有短短的几分钟而已，当太阳的第一缕光芒，透过云彩照射到雪山上时，雪山上皑皑白雪折射出金色的亮光。我们一行人中只有少数几个看到了这一景象。之后雪山就恢复了平日里的银白色。上午登真领着我们去看海螺沟的冰川，我没有坐缆车，也没雇轿夫，徒步上山。这点路对现在的我已经算不了什么了。海螺沟是一个开发的很成熟的旅游胜地，一步一景，但我已没有了激动的感觉。看看相机里的内存还够，就拼命按快门。今天下午我们就要离开这里，回成都了。在回去的车上登真变得很沉闷，我也不知道说什么好，空气僵持着。翻过最后一座雪山时，登真应我们的要求又同往常那样喊了一嗓子，不过声音里很明显的透着无奈。他告诉我车到雅安，他就要下车了，有另外一个团队在等他。我竟一时语塞。虽说我知道天下没有不散的宴席，只是我不想那么快就去面对。我们约定，他会尽快学会上网，到时在网上再联系。 2年之后，他一定会到上海来看他所钟爱的F1比赛。车就要到二郎山隧道了，过了这个隧道就出了甘孜州，隧道的那头就没有蓝蓝的天空，白云朵朵了。在隧道口，登真回过头来，对我说了句：“再看一眼吧，最后一眼了！”我在他的眼眶里竟然看到了一团雾气。二郎山隧道有4公里长，可我觉得还不止，觉得这隧道好长好长，每一秒都特别难熬，恍惚中似乎是在上海的延安路隧道，好像我从未出过家门。车出了隧道，登真买来2瓶啤酒和车上的另一个男生对着喝，一路无话。我拿起他的酒瓶，狠狠地喝了一口。想起一句歌词来：“点一根烟，喝一杯酒，能醉多久？”。放下酒瓶，我努力地调整呼吸，收拾心情。登真还是下车了，在车窗外，他朝我们挥手告别，最后我们互望了一眼，一切就这样尽在不言中，就这样结束了，甚至连一句再见都没有机会说。在我原来的打算里，我想在最后的那顿晚饭上，喝好多好多的青稞酒，然后借着酒劲最后对他说一句：“纳切纳嘎，变巴登真，纳切纳嘎，川藏高原。”可是没得机会了，不过这样也好，我接受这样的安排。车在7点左右到了成都，我马上就感受到了城市里的气息。我想我是属于城市的。在晚上，我用手机给登真发了这样一条短信：当车开的时候，我的眼睛湿了。这是一段难忘的旅程，谢谢你的一路照应。
10/3。我们订的机票是10月4号的。不少人已经归心似箭，把机票签到了10月3号。我不知道还在等什么，赖着不肯走，我没有去签机票，还想在成都再呆一天。一早接到团友的叫早电话，居然是“快起床，去看日照金山嘍！”又让我大笑了一回，不过就是笑后有点惆怅。上午和几个旅友去杜甫草堂喝茶，享受了当地掏耳朵的乐趣，用他们的话来讲，这人生三大乐事无非就是，洞房花烛夜、金榜题名时，还有就是在成都掏耳朵。只可惜这三件事里我只享受到了一件。中午去吃了一顿精品川菜，看到那景致的餐具，我都有点手足无措了，毕竟是刚从大山里出来，还没完全适应。尔后逛逛成都的人民公园，听看相的瞎掰，吃小时候吃的麦芽糖，倒也不不亦乐乎。晚上我们去了一间名为“半打啤酒”的酒吧。那边的乐队很棒！我记不得那晚我一共喝了多少瓶啤酒了，反正最后，我拉着每一个人的手都说了一句同样的话：这里的雪山很美，我们走过的路很苦，我不会忘记的，谢谢你！ "
10/4。在回上海的飞机上，原本我以为我会思绪如潮，就像那首《三万英尺》里所唱的。可是因为我昨晚喝多了，一直都在睡觉。老天连让我感慨的机会都不给！一到上海，我就迫不及待跑去冲印照片，为了犒劳一下自己还跑去美容院做脸、做按摩。在淮海路上，突然接到了登真的电话，看着身边熙熙攘攘的人群，耳边响起的是曾经熟悉的声音。繁华的现代都市和美丽的川藏高原交织在一起，我再一次不知道说什么好。
后记我现在只有一个感觉，累。写完这篇的东西时候，我已是心力交瘁，也算是对自己这十来天的旅程有个交代。我边写边又重游了一次川藏高原。我知道，凭借我的语言词汇是无法记录下那里的景色的，就只好写下我自己的经历和感受。写到后来，往往觉得词不达意。这几夜，我夜夜梦回高原，每天都听从那里带回来的藏歌CD，听得心潮澎湃。早晨睁开双眼的时候，常常还会有莫名的失落。人的一大弱点就是很快会忘却了痛，下次如果有这样的旅行我还是会去。我是一个还算现实的人，但这次旅行真的是深深地触动了我。我爱这一片高原！活着真好！
VIVIAN 完稿于10月9日。
作者：vivian780520
