Yunnan has long been a very charmed and Inagi, the two have said he is the real Shangri-La, the last Shangri-La place, although only the ultimate success of Yunnan, Zhongdian, renamed Shangri-La County, but the Inagi of Aden for me and Hasty also have the same attractive, we believe that there is a beautiful pure land, so decided to go there honeymoon.
Inagi in the southwestern Sichuan Province, is situated at the junction of Sichuan and Yunnan, the land, located in remote and inaccessible areas. There are nearly one thousand kilometers away from Chengdu, the distance from the Zhongdian slightly past 1:00, but no matter which side starting from the scenery along the way are excellent. Starting from Chengdu, via the "Ya rain, elegant fish, elegant woman" Ruin of the Yaan, to Moses Town Tour ownership of the Millennium large icefall and glacier hot springs, low-altitude glaciers Hailuogou, over Luding Bridge, to Kangding play Mu Gecuo Savage Sea, and then travel to Inagi. This route then Sichuan-Tibet line, coupled with road now, so they requested that the driver beaten track, technical good, but it's playable all the way at the scenery pretty good. If you start from Zhongdian, motorists can be arrived at in a day, subject to the 13 hours of car ride too hard, from Zhongdian to Inagi shuttle is one such walk. We do not want to miss on the way Bi-melt Canyon attractions, namely, Shangri-La Gorge, so spent a day and a half trip. In addition, there are many nearby attractions worthy of Zhongdian, a concept, such as the Tiger Leaping Gorge, Bita Lake, baishuitai and so on, usually 2-3 days, because they are scattered in the surrounding Zhongdian. Belong to the same degree of autonomy and Zhongdian Diqing Chau Deqin County, two of the famous snow-capped mountains - Meili Snow Mountain and Haba Snow Mountain, the former by local Tibetans as "a man will shed tears," the place to go as little as 2 days, more than can be thoroughly enjoyed themselves on the 5th tour. This time we move forward in order to ensure that the National Day Daocheng not go to Deqin, but the heart of fascinating.
As the Summer at Grandpa longer than me, so he brought forward a week before flying in Kunming, Stone Forest tour the next day after the ride the night train to Dali, sit bus to Lijiang, Lijiang, followed by a new understanding and a few friends in the local chartered with the You Lugu Lake, 2 days travel. I learned from September 21 Mid-Autumn fly to Lijiang, visit roughly like this:
Lijiang (2 days) → foot tiger jump (2 days) → Zhongdian (2 days) → The Shangri-La to the towns and the Grand Canyon (1 day) → via Inagi to Aden Luorongniuchang (1 day) → Tour Aden back Inagi (1 day) → Play Inagi (1 day) → back to Chengdu via Kangding (2 days)
DAY1 (09/21): Lijiang Shenzhen Airlines flights from Shenzhen a daily direct flights to Lijiang, the full price of 1580, nearly two weeks in advance only to buy off the votes of 85, it is estimated that the route regardless of seasonal discounts were very low. 8:30-11:00 arrived in Lijiang, the ride to the airport 40 minutes CMB Lijiang Town, just 10 yuan, but also enjoy the local natural scenery along the road. Played 10 minutes Tai Institute Town, Lijiang taxis do not play table, usually 6 yuan, or 7 yuan can be. Su is located in Dayan Town in the vicinity of Stone Itabashi "city holiday" is a small bridge in front of flowing water, but noisy at night people will not feel that water sound asleep, 24-hour hot water (this is the way it is difficult to enjoy in the future to be) , only 40 yuan a standard room, but if 51 is the National Day Golden Week, a bed should be more than 200, it is still very sought-after. There are four ancient holiday rooms, services, two girls and eye-very good, but often disappear as soon running, depriving the hospital of us in chat from time to time came the old to cope with or find the room or take photographs of visitors. The only drawback is its inadequate toilet, a little odor, and good in the small courtyard, with atrial septal far away, little impact.
Lunch casually found a stone near a Kodate Itabashi, point of the mushroom ? ?, cross the bridge noodle, good and taste, but also extremely low, the two eat only three dozen yuan. After dinner to the town on a rented two bicycles, as is the afternoon only 10 yuan / person, deposit 100 yuan / person, bought a Zhang Lijiang map, we went to the nearby river town beam. Half-way from time to time ask for directions, some more than one hours ride to reach. Encountered along the way many foreigners, some of the very professional racing driver and equipment. Shu River ancient town of Dayan Town business atmosphere is not thick, it might also appeal to our reason. It is also a bridge in front of the water under the bridge's southern atmosphere, unlike in the surrounding farmland, housing mostly mud piling up, the more archaic, and we met there also the collecting folk songs from Chongqing to group, but the case would like to enjoy the scenery do not also. To leave the beam river town, see the close proximity on the map marked Baisha murals, and asked local people not far distant, and the answers far, riding Xing is thick, so on the train to continue. After countless of corn along the road, the distant mountains near pine, scenic Daohai good, but I saw the sky growing dark, the way was also deserted. Later analysis is misleading maps, presumably because the beam river town has the most top of the map, but in order to Baisha murals marked out, forced to shorten the distance. To the Baisha Murals, the weather factors that we have not seen it. Funny is that local women have come a see the visitors put the music was released, called the visitors to dance, and then walk off again, it might be, should be charged bar. Crazy ride all the way back to town, come back Yucheng snow-capped mountains of the return route is a necessary way, and numerous bus. The day riding back and forth for about 30 years.
Hasty night and with the tour group to get to know friends in the Lugu Lake Dayan town waterside dining, go before you buy a beer with in the past. Mid-Autumn Festival night, though did not see a bright moon, but the spreading waves of songs. There are numerous tours during the piles of people came out again, just so a trip is not feel the charm of the town. After dinner a one to stroll, fancy many distinctive arts and crafts, or see how they make such a creative Dongdong. Square Street there is an IP phone business hall, where phone calls can save a lot of silver. Oh, went to many people in Lijiang, no charges had ink.
D2 (09/22): Package Car Lijiang Day Tours we and "petty bourgeoisie" couple with the pack of cars a day, 100 yuan; "petty bourgeoisie" and the couple had lived in Lijiang Metro got this nickname, which is the same understanding of Lugu Lake Tour . The weather was very bad, quite disappointing, and we say that is because the first day "Gangjie" do not see the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain angry, so at home, Fa-gong Let us see. "Gang Jie" is a girl from Hong Kong, who came alone tourism in Dali to Lijiang Shen couple of small car knowledge, we become friends with the tour Lugu Lake. Apart from these two pairs of newlyweds and the Gang Jie, tour the lake along with a surname of money older teen nicknamed "old money" friends. Later, tour tiger jumped, and some of them are perfect mountain climbing has become a very good playmate, but also travel a great harvest.
Ping nowadays in the consumption of cow began to rain heavily, we have spent the last 63 yuan yak Ping ropeway charges, sat on spacious half of the ropeway car carrying an umbrella rain Duoduosuosuo. Under the rain the more the greater the Yulong Snow Mountain visible basically have no hope, so a large province, 110 per cableway. To baishuihe after meals, photography, return to Lijiang after the "Donkey's nest" to see where Tingting Yang Yuying took one. Baishuihe and baishuitai one word, the former is artificial construction, which is karst terrain, much larger scale. Lijiang attractions nearby to eat is not cheap, baishuihe relatively better, Shuizhu the tables also have a big pot. After dinner went to the holy water Temple, scenic spots is meaningless, there are two trees of the millennium has been regarded as a god of old trees, as well as hypertrophy of incomparable trout fish, edible, more than one hundred pound blocks. Tickets are 30 yuan a person, but fortunately the rain stopped, you can pat pat people to spend. There are a number of attractions along the way, such as Ganhaizi and so on, due to bad weather in recent days failed to see the negative long-standing name Jade Dragon Snow Mountain wins than lost.
15:00 early on back to Lijiang, went to Waterloo to play with donkey computers, Internet access fees are 10 yuan / hour, point of coffee (now the Mill), and rake rake. Ass nest owner was very nice, but also to identify tiger jumped the information to us. The main thing that night contact vehicles to take five of us to go tiger jump bridge in the city leave two grinning little girl a pass after a phone Gaoding. Quite like the city clean and free holiday, we have eight people sitting chatting it felt like a small courtyard in the house as comfortable. Here are two little girls are simply easier to live in particular, there are students who have lived here in Beijing for the elderly has also sent a specially her both English language learning tapes, life is remarkable that a human face.
D3 (09/23): Tiger Leaping Gorge on foot an appointment with a companion at the local, walk back to the foreigners to understand a bit market, we have five members of his van allowed to send packets of a bridge town, five individuals are we and Small Shen and his wife, Gangjie. The old money to go to tiger jumped, but he could not wait for us one day in advance, and another group of people go first of; Petty couple is dancing for the tiger dung of horse manure going Otherwise hesitation, finally decided on the Lijiang Petty . To bridge the town, we looked for a point of looking at large-scale Bi-Gap hotels send packets, and then brought the necessary supplies lightly armed departure.
Before starting, we are in the ancient city of the International Youth Hostel Flower 2 yuan to buy the Tiger Leaping Gorge, a map (there can be presented live, but heard that accommodation is not very good), on foot tiger jumped map must be prepared, the tiger jumped the map Now only the kind of hand-painted, is designed to provide for the foot, and if you do not have no need to map the foot. Later we discovered that the scenic Zhongdian tickets, Inagi same Aden are invariably there is no scenic road map. Because foreigners are very enthusiastic about tiger jumped on foot, so a lot of maps are in English, the tiger jumped the small hotel has also played almost all the English name: halfway, Tina抯, Five figures. Tiger-hop is the value of tickets, only 30 yuan a person can be whatever you play long, and "scenic" and the large. Can also drive directly into the Tiger Leaping Gorge, but when debris fell from the sky and so on, interrupt traffic. By our consulting foreigners encountered the mountains falling rock, we have also seen several mudslides. Tiger jumped as if included in one of the world's top ten foot line, where he saw wearing short-sleeved shorts carrying a large bag of foreigners is commonplace.
Tiger jumped divided into upper, middle and lower tiger jumping, in our view, the next attractions than the tiger jump tiger in the tiger jumped and jumped, but if not afraid of difficulties and dangers can also go through entire process, some of Mix's preferred route is from the next Tiger go jump on the tiger jumped. We chose the tiger jumped from the walk to the tiger jump. The tours to the general is on the tiger jump drive to jump on the tiger you see a tiger jumped off stone, but the tiger jumped at the tiger jumping stone is not a real tiger jumped stone, then jump in the tiger . However, the tiger jumped at muddy river surging, and very spectacular. Repaired along the riverside of the stone steps down to the valley, still very strenuous, walk if you can sit slider. When we come to when they climb from the canyon tired out of breath, but this is only the beginning.
Rest a moment, Sheung. We designed the line is from Yongsheng Murakami highway, this may, without 28 trafficked to the Gap, on the return walk lowway. 28 Shui Po, not far from the highway starting point, listening to the name of this section will know how difficult, almost vertical spiral. The so-called highway, is actually gut paths, lowway is the road. In order to find the way on the highway, we spend a great twists and turns, and then walk over the past three kilometers asked numerous people holding map started climbing. Drizzle Meng Meng, wearing a raincoat hair wet. Fought all the way, the former two-thirds of the distance can not see from the instructions, there is no clear guiding arrows. We give full play to the team spirit, two boys and a previous open one in the post-protection, difficult place to go pull a push of the small Shen couple also from the outset, to help Gangjie back of a package. Went to 1 o'clock is hungry, everyone had put eat the hard tack, cake, ham sausage are out to "picnic." Later sections will from time to time to see the halfway carved in stone on the red arrows, and some street a small stone, some of them in more conspicuous places, basically where bifurcation occurs, there will be marked to remind, but many do not marks place, but in the end will be aggregated into a road, just walking distance is different. At this time the map is of little value, because the map is to use an upward line expressed the need to go up highway. A Summer at Grandpa in front of Pathfinder, lest you avoid costly mistakes, no consumption of too much physical care. When we see printed on the boulder head "Halfway 500m" of the mark, we yelling, cheering, taking pictures nostalgia, as excited as crossed the finish line. 15:00, we are hungry and cold to go halfway hotels, drinking hot tea, baked stove, and later to eat lunch before formally solution of embarrassed mirror. Mix were halfway being known as the "best in the world toilet," toilets, toilets that rely on the canyon wall is only half the height, the outside of the fruit trees and panoramic view of distant mountain valleys, when the best in the world, said toilet. halfway to the menu like the ancient canon that has exhausted the book into the bamboo, Gangjie not put it down, but also expand the menu pictures nostalgia. Deli is very tasty, of course, there are a number of foreigners were like favorite dishes. We'll have a good corn liquor to go cold to warm feet under the stove on the wooden table, drinking and chatting to eat, life is a great pleasure. There are halfway decent and simple eye-good boss, who really walk the hearts of hope and harbor.
From halfway to Tina抯still more than two hours away, but obviously have been better than front-end road, since the latter half of the road to the hillside just be careful walking without stepping on hands and feet to climb the dirt road. Looking back halfway Nazuo cabin homes fell in the mountains, not help lamenting the beautiful scenery and the people of the plain. Fog around the hillside, breaking out of the Jinsha River Gorge cloud like a dragon flying in the mountains. I like the tiger jumped like scenery, natural, rugged, yet beautiful. Rain and fog in the mountains stretch for several seconds to put on a layer of the veil, the renewal of the mountains Yanyanshishi package together, leaving only a vast expanse of whiteness, walk in such a mountain, the time stagnation. However, all the way as usual there are numerous horse manure, sheep manure, the two men met in the morning and once, when Pathfinder nowhere offal things over and over this situation. On the way to see a sheep child, rags, but the response to our questions and answers are clear, generous, decent, unlike later Inagi children to see there are a large group of cars has skyrocketed, dirty, dirty, and mouth cried "Hey, give stars sugar" or "to some money." To see Tina抯medium-Gap hotel, but we might be too pleased with odd slip down the road, there are two ladies fall in succession, it is estimated to fall to the lot of a millimeter backward in the horse manure. We carefully ground floor of the slope, was admitted to the fields抯sister Tina opened.
From 10:00 to 18:00, except noon to eat a half an hour, we almost always walk. To celebrate, we have the luxury of a little: point up a pot of chicken soup Uzbekistan in fact only 18 per pound, a full boil for one hour. A basin of chicken on the table, with a spicy dish, good taste ah! Lived only 10 yuan / person, clean, and have hot water shower. Restaurants have a brazier, from different places get together with people chatting, never mind more lively. Stood around a brazier while eating everyone's underwear shoes - have been wet in the. There is a group of people from the Tiger to skip to the next, half-way through the landslides have to get off after the pedestrian stepped out of the path, one slip will be rolled Gap at the end, there's Hong Kong girls are still hard to climb them there. We are five individuals to Tian sister borrowed three trousers, Tian sister were very good, responsive, treating others with sincerity, but also specifically to the live side of a brazier of us downstairs. We baked around Kaohuo clothes, friendship, mutual assistance in the day and night to build up a chat.
D4 (09/24): down to the bottom view of the tiger jumped stone to the Zhongdian county to leave the tiger jumped the next day from the fields to the sister hotel next to the cul-de Zhang teacher's house to go (in close proximity), and then opened from the Teacher Chang trail down to the bottom of the tiger jump. Did not go a few steps encountered Teacher Chang's cousin, and we invite him as our guide, each 8. Because open hard Teacher Chang, Ms. Zhang to the five-person maintenance costs, I heard that some foreigners are less willing to pay the money, find them unreasonable. We were not able to see Zhang teacher, because he can only have one day a week to stay home, rest of the time gave the school children.
Lane is not good to go, and the farther difficult, in some places need to use wire pulling is sliding down. Mountains and quiet, only the sound of waterfalls are not nonstop. Do not know how many to go before approaching the river bend. In the riverside walk, we Caidui the reasonableness of fees charged by personal experiences. Although The pictures do not see the hard road, but if not have this wizard, we simply did not expect to come away from the river, a place so close to, but would not know how to offal.
Down to the bottom, the bridge can also be reached by the two most famous stone in the tiger jumped. Required to pay a bridge after every two dollars / person cost, not to guide, but to live in the bottom of that family. I really did not think we expect people to live in a place like this, after a first small wooden bridge vibrate slightly to meet us is the red flowers, and a young woman a sincere smile, a wooden house built on the Pentium on the riverside. From the log cabin next to the dirt go down to take the second bridge can clearly see the tiger jumped stone and the second bridge leading to it. Excessive rainfall recent days, another landslide, too slippery road is dangerous, there is no tiger jumped on to the stone. But even passed the first bridge, they will take a certain degree of courage and perseverance, grateful that despite the good Jisi timid eventually be encouraged to go forward with this process. Another three playmate because it did not go to the final period while walking in the front of the wizard to find the branch with bamboo sticks to me, very easy to walk in front of their own, and still picking up points to Woliang walnut. I have to go way back to a break for a while, Dakoutaikou pant, but also can not wait to continue to breathe even have to go - still a long road. Have been run out of stamina, and even the camera is also not a smiley face to show. Round trip so we went for three hours, the original tiger jumped in the last half hour was really only a warm-up only, with the tiger jumped down to the section of track compared.
Hard go hard, the tiger jumped really worth a visit. In addition to its own beauty and tiger jump tiger foot jump, after the defeat of self-achievement, along the Yangtze River at the first corner you can see this magnificent natural scenery. Tiger jumped on foot we have chosen is not an easy line, but still lost 28 Shui Pass, because the Internet to see Mix article, this section of track is too tortured physically, a little taste of self-abusive travel. Although we travel more difficult because the number of rainy days, but the fog of the tiger jumped Do not have taste, even in the Chang teacher's house engineering team have also lamented the rain, the beautiful and rare tiger jumped.
Chang teacher's house to eat lunch in, and taste delicious, but also not expensive. 12:00 Back on the tiger jumped along the highway, Zhang's wife on taking us out, and help us to contact our drivers. Gap in GSM that there was no signal, the telephone switchboard engineering teams and bad, and with the outside world inconvenient. In starting the night before last, we have adopted Mix the article linked to Zhongdian, a Tibetan driver Yang Jun, the Tibetan name of Wang pile, arranged to meet him at the tiger jumped on the bridge in the town waiting for us and took us to play near Zhongdian attractions.
Yang is a very good drivers are friends, honest and frank, enthusiastic, humorous, we are precisely because of this evaluation online only to find him. That we are on foot tiger jump, Yang Jun is a natural concern for our tired and said they entered the car to meet us in the gorge. In the gorge landslides occurred in three or four times, cars can not be opened come, he said, open look inside to open as much as possible so that we walk a little way, it is for our sake. Due to landslides reasons, lowway is not so good to go, there is a mountain torrent too fast on the road to form a wide and 45 meters of rapids, we can only rush, shoes naturally wet. Unexpectedly, after Tangshui not progressed very far, you see one wearing a Tibetan clothing, wearing white gloves stood on a sidewalk waiting to see, to walk in front of Xiao Zhang, said: "after that there are people do, I am Yang driver." Xiao Zhang a, excitement would only say: "We're we!" It's the same as seeing their loved ones. Young drivers had the car parked in front of debris to see if can go any further, afraid to miss us, so to see so many people would come on one. Master Yang has just washed the car, extremely clean and tidy, is a modified eight-seater Beijing Jeep, coupled with "luxury decoration," so that those of us dirty wet, it is very embarrassed to sit inside. Young chef is very enthusiastic so that we got on the way to the small Zhongdian opened Shuishuoxiaoxiao out. What is unique to see the scenery, such as the fiery red of the Euphorbia Zhongdian, meadow, Yang Master on the park let us shoot your fill, and the role of tour guides and play.
Night, Young was admitted to Xin Yuan masters introduce our hotel, and for us to talk about house prices from 100 into 80 one standard room, let alone live in Hong Kong came Xiaofang, three humans, count to 30. Always has a place settled after Young master took us to the expertise of a cheap little restaurants to eat beef. Tables throughout the restaurant can seat two people, wall hung six Tau, numerous internal organs, doing the dishes come out very unique and very cheap, the three Luo two Su-50 plus a soup, but a few dollars. Temporary leaving Zhongdian ago, we ran again, this greedy eating Sanhuo Fan, small Shen specially picked a good horns on the back. Not to mention the evening, and Yang master brings us back to his house, baked shoes, drink the wine he brewed! Shoes into the water, very wet, Master Yang is on his family home baking for us, and the next night we Zaiqu Na's; Xiaofang ticket back to Kunming, Ms. Yang is also a prop to help buy. Young Master is really a warm hospitality makes us such a memorable. Young Master cell phone is:
D5 (09/25): baishuitai, Bita day trip the next day's itinerary is a pioneer in car to baishuitai, then to Bita Lake. As early as 8 am departure, Yang master should first we have received his house to eat Membrane drink buttered tea, mooncakes, leaving his family and the Tibetan Mastiff puppies are all utter the least, and, like last night, Huan. Zhongdian to baishuitai curved multi-risk, but we are open before noon to baishuitai the foot.
Baishuitai is a typical Karst topography, and Huanglong are somewhat similar. Dacheng along the wood ladder Climb the stairs and discovered that many actually log on a circle of mushrooms grow. Walked, we suddenly discovered a small squirrel flash off! Later, in Bita Lake, master all lakes, often can be found in squirrels, as a tourist in a great fun. Baishuitai actually very much like a long in the mountains of a bunch of big mushrooms, and some white, some yellow, umbrella collections of crystal surface and scattering also drops, but the pictures do not really see the white water units of water. Where the water is still beautiful, and the Department, such as pearls scattered shallow water if the build up, this is a Lv Yingying Wang Yingying blue. The baishuitai the most top is a flat, including a small lake Shen Shui, to clear, green and was somewhat mysterious. Several Tibetan girls dressed in fur coat, sang and danced hand in hand, singing echo in the mountains, the bright, such as Teana.
The baishuitai also encountered an unexpected and moving so that we do, so that our people understand and feel the simplicity and passion Zhongdian. We baishuitai a shop after lunch went to Bita Lake, the adidas hat forgotten in the seat. We went down Bitahai aware of things before, and analyze baishuitai should be in the restaurant, but it is not likely to go back to pick up, so feeling a little bit affected. Did not expect to return the car out from the Bita Lake, the Young Master out of our hat, said: "Give your hat.". Could not help but overjoyed, Mangwen how the matter, because we know that cap has been lost呀. Young chefs have had dinner with the temporary table and a driver chatted days, so he know that our trip, the restaurant found out what we are after, with the deliberate care who the driver brought us. In fact, they can refuse to have it, they should be in other places would have been like this. Young drivers who had their hats handed over to continue his journey after the master, and if that occurred in their eyes is very common for this kind of thing should move. Zhongdian's Chingmei, people more beautiful!
It is from baishuitai to Bita Lake, not from the west line into Bita Lake, heard of such an arrangement is not the most beautiful, because the western route into the case, the scenery along the way will be more beautiful. Bita Lake is actually at the foot of a mountain, take along a root from the logs, and trip up and down the road, trees blocks out the sun, the foot does not slip when playing, you can also ride into the mountains, but it seems not necessary. Before and after three hours we swam. Bita waterfront in the meadow, the local pull of the splendidly dressed in yak for visitors to photography, all the way to go in the past are singing you the guy for possession of pictures of girls clothes.
The three friends with the tour, from Hong Kong, Xiao-fang the next day we should fly back to Kunming, so we used that evening Zhongdian specialties - chicken pocket for her practice. Chicken pocket it more unique, early in the morning put a whole chicken stuffed inside pig stomach stew with at night, when guests come to dinner to get them into the pot, somewhat similar to the Chongqing hot pot, but accompanied by a few sample dishes, such as the peanuts, pig stomach article, soybean Zhushou soup. Within each of our deployment of "oil dish", seasoning with coriander, fermented tofu, red pepper, radish and other bubble. There are also such as potatoes, watermelon and other raw vegetables, eat, and hot pot are the same. This meal down 170 yuan, including a bottle of what we want, "Tibetan crisp."
D6 (09/26): Shuo Du Lake, Songzanlinsi, Napa lake on the 1st day of the attractions not to spend a day in fact, only three in the afternoon we swam all the attractions. These attractions, the Napa lake is actually only saw one car in the past, because drivers already this year, said Napa lake becomes a real sea, so we go to the road, only to look a bit remote. Young martial arts master Daoshi 18 counts tied to the solution of the rock along the shore of the rafts on the plaster to water the Central Committee, while we invented a more disgusting game: Who can match up to the stone throwing cow dung - which all the way to see the animals too much waste! Write the tourism awareness of this recall, a friend, he had adamantly refused to go tiger jump, where the horse manure, cow dung on the incomparably more, but want to see beautiful scenery, so decided to "become a small step" with the result to the view of the tiger jumped been attracted to stay the words to us: so beautiful!
Napa lake into the sea, even the Department has been inundated by selling tickets. Shuo Du lake is no longer being flooded, and some call it an all Mix Lake again. Both the lake scenery Dao Shi Shuo Bitahai looks to be beautiful than some, but also a fundamental need for any leg muscles, walk in the door will be able to see Haizi, and shot out of the scene was still, there is great charm. Photography-loving friends the best left-handed look at the mountain lake Baita, Ying-printed under the blue sky, there is a unique beauty. In addition, it seems to sit beside that house boats permanently parked with a boat, even though looks very general, but it is often introduced or postcard picture appears in the classic picture.
Songzanlinsi more well-known in the Southwest, because it is the largest Tibetan lama temples, and we noticed that the nearby towns have built their own in this small temple, with monks of each monastery will be revised in this one himself hut, so that when you give a small Potala Palace Songzanlinsi afar feeling. Deities are to respect, even if you do not believe can not be disrespectful, I have always think so, in the Songzanlinsi it seems to be a verification. Accompanied by a small Shen do not think Songzanlinsi any good-looking, and muttering out the result had hardly faded from the foot in a pile of cow dung. Walking in the temple also need to pay attention to the foot. We did not encounter much in the Songzanlinsi where monks, let alone a Living Buddha, probably because they all went to eat, or rest. Temples are built, not knowing where to transport the two stone lions on the temple door, but the visitors only from a side door into the main hall, the main entrance is only reserved for recitation of the monks walking. Zhongdian people's love of flowers can also be reflected in this temple, there are a lot of planting flowers in full bloom to greet the visitors.
The next day was preparing to leave Inagi, we want to pack a car. Young Master has long set the other guests, so we had to cruise in the Zhongdian county town. Small Shen couples because of the time because the next day went back to Lijiang, leaving the old Soviet Union to join us that day, he was on the post by ctrip to contact us on. Zhongdian's terminal opposite the street put out a slip of the car, waiting for chartered tourists, local truck driver tube is called swing. The road is not good enough to go Inagi, we think of at least rent a Beijing Jeep, Mitsubishi, this is best of imported cars, shock performance, much better. But the pendulum car also made the best of the Beijing Jeep. Later, in the city Xiaguang casual, but still let us find Travelers Inn, and his boss Mayon. Horse owner's car is better, although it has also Beijing Jeep, but the performance outclasses Mitsubishi, six-cylinder pajero, but some problems of his license, plus hotel also engaged in inter-bar, until 22 o'clock, the two sides decided to go with the Daocheng .
It also gives us some experience, to Zhongdian looking car and try to find travel partners, not so easy as in Lijiang, Lijiang, there are many places you can paste posts, such as international youth hostels, donkeys nest cafes, there are other offers Posts Posts hostels; in Zhongdian, we are not aware of this special reception backpacker travelers Inn, only know there is a cafe, in the three-star hotel next to Zhongdian. However, there can not stuck on post, only in its message board message. We stay the night at the Travelers Inn of the post, actually received several phone hopes to work with travel. The end we decided to proceed on the three individuals, so that the most comfortable sitting up because the horse up to the boss's car can only take four tourists. Travelers Inn has double, triple and single rooms, other can be red hot. Had we stayed in at night up in opposite Xin Yuan Hotel, two-star, price should be higher than the former, because Xin Court standard room has been booked. To listen to horse owners say that he is also ready to invest in standard rooms to meet different accommodation requirements of tourists. Ma boss Telephone:
Chartered out to remind the friends we have to find car have to look at a driver's license, operating license, insurance card, payment of premiums, and to remind drivers to put on, or else face a fine of deduction of such verification and emotional impact of stroke on the bad ! Also speaking in advance and drivers also need to properly cost-sharing situation, conventional drivers are responsible for room and board by the tourists, the driver and vehicle is responsible for all related costs, including the oil money, fines. These are also, and Yang, he specifically admonished the parting.
D7 (09/27): Shangri-La Shangri-La Grand Canyon Grand Canyon has given us a wonderful memory.
Horse owner's driving skills is absolutely first class, only three hours, we are open to the Grand Canyon. Weather is good, although can not see the sun's face, but felt its presence. Meals in the canteen at the entrance, we declined the groom went to the canyon. Tickets for the Grand Canyon is 30, with selling tickets to people who we are students, although he initially said no student tickets, but soon agreed to let the two of us to buy a ticket on it. People here are really simple people of other tourist attractions.
Canyon attractions now developed more than ten kilometers, can be divided into four bridge (go to the toilet and that bridge is not included). A walk to see a further lift bridges, streams, clear, and pleasant scenery, is a lot of calendars in the kind of picture to see. The old Soviet Union has already put his camera and tripod, and crouched on the floor framing, we also stop camera. Emergence of a bridge, a black cow, not a small child does, cattle drive women to see us busy cattle stopped, and we rushed to the other side of the bridge so that they could. Almost only by four small bridge and up the tree, not very wide. See us to raise the camera facing the cattle shoot, the woman is still very considerate to let cattle paused on the bridge taking the road. Cattle have passed, the old Soviet Union back in situ, we then move on. Bridge just turned the trails, head saw a group of very shiny black pig, some small, smaller may be a few days before it was born. Haha, I hastened back to the old Soviet Union called "pigs come!" Old Soviet dubious, his face saying: "cows go, how come there are pigs?", But also did not know was true or false, lips, said: " is not true, you will not deceive me? "on the occasion of hesitation in the old Soviet Union, Zhuzhu Men have appeared in his line of sight, and the old Soviet Union Huangde quickly fled carrying his tripod, even on the floor of the has also refused to take a camera bag. This scenario is too funny, and we are starting to seize the film. In fact, inside the pig hill kinda frightening, and always as far away from us walking around the edge of the road, the bridge is also Jicheng side, but fortunately did not pack the old Soviet Union pushed under the bridge.
Path all the way along the stream, apparently stepped out of Montagnards, it feels very natural, in addition to the roadside trash, there is no trace of the number of manual maintenance. Walking in the valley where, in addition to the occasional Montagnards and the old Soviet Union, there is no other visitors to see, really comfortable. The first bridge, and erdaoqiao distance may be at least 34 miles, close to erdaoqiao, the gorge walls on both sides of the stream, straight into the sky, unlike the open and trees in front of so delicate and pretty. Shangri-La Grand Canyon, painted the cover of the brochure is erdaoqiao. A beautiful bridge, erdaoqiao steep, three bridge there does not seem too special features. From the erdaoqiao further forward, there have been red leaf trees in the mountains in the truly beautiful. After a three-bridge, the road suddenly became difficult to go straight after the turn the three also saw steep creeks, forests cover the valley was shade, and a red wing bird flew close to the surface of the water fly. Let us move forward line for some distance to see into the canyon for nearly two hours, it was decided to go back.
To go back when the encounter is not a dog owner. And the old Soviet Union was talking about and found the dog to do shuttle run between us, we are due to see it in front of some tension. Return rare photographs, also a lot faster.在当初看到一群猪的地方，竟然遇到一群牛。主人把它们放开吃草后，不知道跑哪里去了，让这些角弯弯的牛就挡在我们必须经过的路上！镇定，别怕，我们脚步放慢呼吸放轻地经过了这群牛，还好，没事。
在峡谷停留了三个小时，再加之前吃饭休息的一个小时，下午四点钟我们告别了大峡谷，感叹着它随处是景的美丽前往稻城。去稻城途中，中甸县内的景色都令人感叹。马永告诉我们，这还不是它最美的季节，叶只黄了部分，到十月中下旬，树叶的颜色就是层次分明格外美丽了。早晨下过雨，路上没有扬灰，让我们准备的口罩没有派上用场。路上也有过蹋方，有的地方是两台推土机在清理；有的路面还是很烂，被近一个月的雨水泡的。沿路都是大山，多郁郁葱葱，但其中有近十多里则是令人惨不忍睹的画面：三十多年前的一场大火留下如战场横尸般东倒西歪的树桩，或是根根直立寸绿皆无的树干，十多里路全是一片灰色！从中甸去往稻城要翻越大小雪山口，海拔也有四五千米了。
我们一直到晚上九点钟才到达当天的目的地乡城，算是开得很快了，而且又有近两个小时都是夜路。马永很少跑稻城这条线，所以对沿路的住宿并不熟。城里又因为一半城区停电而黑乎乎的，挺吓人。乡城本身就很小，住的地方更不多。我们先问了最先看到的大巴姆酒店，外观有至少六七层楼吧，但价位很离谱。四人间都要60元一个床位，标间则要240，还不肯给什么折扣，楼下的歌厅还吵得要命。出门再找，后来去了位于篮球场后面的乡雪酒家，都是普间，带彩电，有公共厕所，好在算是现代文明的铺了磁砖的，比起以后那些都是木头的乡间厕所要好很多了，另外就是得克服一下旅途风尘，因为没法洗澡。这家宾馆算是比较正规，入住的每个人都要登记身份证，有停车场，而且有自己的发电设备，这在乡城这个总是停电的地方实在太重要。
找好了住宿，我们得赶快喂饱肚子，毕竟离午餐时间已有近十个小时。和乡雪酒家并排的那条路上有一家小餐馆，可以提供炒菜，其他一些小店都只能提供些小点。尽管这家小餐馆中坐了一桌怪吓人的人在吃饭，我们还是硬着头皮进去了。随身带的电筒在此之后几天特别管用，吃饭中间就曾停了电。除了老苏因是广东人饮食素来清淡，每到一处点菜都叮嘱厨房少放油不放辣，我们其他四人都比较习惯滇川的口味。所以要去这些地方还是要在饮食上有所准备，至少要有点思想准备。话说回来，到了成都雅安这些地方不去吃吃当地小吃真是实在太可惜！
D8(09/28)：经稻城，进亚丁，当天到达洛绒牛场好在乡雪有提供开水，还有无数的脸盆，看上去很干净。早晨7点过我就起床洗漱，还热热的洗了头。临行前就把头发剪短了，为的就是在这种地方好打理一点。背包游最好不要留长发，不舍得剪的话最好把头发扎起来或编起来，途中见批一长发的背包女，不幸被一人的肩章钩住，痛得哇哇大叫。八点钟左右在乡雪酒家那条路上的成都小吃店用早餐，包子稀饭，都是五毛一份，泡菜一块一大碟，舒舒服服地吃好后奔稻城而去。
从乡城出发后，景色似乎就不如中甸好看了，一路的车也多了不少，三个多小时即到达稻城。稻城是近几年才热起来的景点，城市街道小商店的牌都统一了。我们打算在稻城用午餐，当天进亚丁，这样可以避开国庆高峰期。亚丁距稻城128公里，车程三个小时，路还是不太好走，在网上也经常看到封山不让进亚丁的消息。我们午餐是在客运站旁边一家叫“贵心圆”的小餐馆里吃的炒菜，老板是泸定县人，手艺挺好，我们在稻城的三餐就都在这家解决的，把他的菜算是吃了个遍，以土豆烧牛肉、豌豆尖蛋汤、砂锅豆腐为最实惠好吃。
吃饭的时候，我们向旁边一桌打听进稻城的关卡情况，因为听他们谈话似乎其中一位是开稻城至亚丁班车的师傅。听他们说现在国庆期间，查得很严，证不全是不放行的，而且都不让外地旅游车进亚丁。害得我们还按着杨俊留给我们的一张名片找救兵，这张名片的主人是一位退休在家的管营运的部长。部长夫人接了电话后和我们见了面，让我们放心进去，没有这种说法，万一有什么问题就打电话；又说他们家是藏式宾馆，叫喜波热民居，要我们1号那天赶回稻城参加服装节。稻城至亚丁的出城口有设关卡检查证件，小兵登记了一下驾照就放行了。往前三五公里就是色拉伴河，不知道是谁起了这么美的名字。景是不错，万亩胡杨林树叶黄黄绿绿，衬着山丘缓和的线条，从亚丁回来后我们曾在这儿拍了无数的照片。再往前行则没有什么风景，车在盘山公路上扬起漫天尘土，马司机一路走一路奇怪地问：“风景在哪里呢？”稻城是我们此行的目的地，为此而没有安排去德钦，而马司机则最爱跑德钦这条线，中甸沿路的风景确实很美，今天这一天两旁确实看不到什么好景，山也没有什么树，有的地方还光秃秃的，也无怪乎他会发出疑问了。而开不多远就发现一辆大客在山间公路上晃悠着，超车时发现开车的果然是临桌吃饭的，不知道他是不是想让我们坐他的车进亚丁才说那样一番话。
吉普比大客快多了，四点半我们到达亚丁，还没决定当晚是住亚丁山脚的管理处还是当晚上山，就冲出来几个年轻人惊喜地叫住马师傅，原来是几天前包他车的客人，他们刚好从山上出来。七嘴八舌地，我们听他们讲得头晕脑涨，周围又有七八个马夫围着让我们租马，只记得他们说我们现在上山时间来得及，可以当晚住到洛绒牛场去。于是急着租马上山，为保险起见，租的是亚丁管理处的马，每人140，又急着让收钱的开收据、找马、了解线路与管理规定，一片混乱。及至上了马往山里走了，又有些后悔，觉得不该骑马的——路都修好了，并不难走，应该步行。亚丁的门票早在离管理处二三十里的地方就得买，128元/人，没有学生票，骑马进山之前管理处会检票。每人一骑一马夫，司机则带着那几个年轻人回稻城去了。
亚丁的第一个景点叫冲古寺，在此若天气好可以拍仙乃日雪峰的倒影，不过我们进山没遇到好天气，天阴沉沉的后来还下起雨来。其实在亚丁，马是很少的，游客骑的多是骡子，所以有的书上称是“骑骡马上山”。亚丁的商业化气息已经很浓了，这一点可以在许多自助游书上得到印证，给我们牵骡的有个年青人从头到尾就埋怨我们的背包重，其实我们还没带大包走呢，沿路也见到很多人背的包比我们大。管理处的门口有很清晰的亚丁地图和租马规定，每段路程是多少钱，游完全程来回一共140，但必须是从租马的两天内有效，如果要在亚丁里面多呆一天，就要加58元。所以去之前最好能了解这些规定以作行程安排。
离冲古寺较近的有个景点叫珍珠海，我们原打算当天就去，但马夫们不乐意，建议我们回程再去，于是到了冲古寺后我们只是停下来休息了一下就往洛绒牛场继续。亚丁的海拔不低，在4500米左右，但骑在马上就没有什么高原反应。这一点也因人而异吧，因为当晚半夜时有人掀帐篷，问有没有氧气袋，原来是有人有高原反应，半夜头痛呼吸困难实在忍不住了，这人还是骑马上来的。有个前两年去了亚丁的同事也是这种情况，头痛不说，还吃不下东西，后来离开稻城回到成都平原就没事了。
洛绒牛场离冲古寺挺远，马程两小时，常人在高原行走的速度应该从马夫慢至少半小时至一小时吧。等我们到达洛绒牛场，已是七点钟，天也将将黑了。在亚丁都是只有帐篷可以住，洛绒牛场的帐篷有七八顶，不过都不是军用帐篷。国庆节前，上亚丁的人不算太多，我们三个人得以独享一个帐篷。一间帐篷共设了至少二十个床位，都是大通铺，中间留了一条细细的过道。每个床位两床厚被，估计有四斤重，垫的褥子则是两层，下面一层是防潮的棕垫，上面是一床棉胎，然后铺的是一层床单，就这样。我们晚上多铺了一层褥子，盖了三床被，又在周围堆了好几床被挡风，不过早晨起来，发现最上面一层被都是潮的。
亚丁的物资都需要从山下运上去，对吃我们还是有心理准备，可能是因为预期较低，当天的晚餐我们吃得倒很满意，不过也有的游客吃得不开心。洛绒牛场能提供的菜样式很少，好象就四样。不少客人点了虫草炖鸡汤，有的那锅好吃有的就嫌鸡太老吃不动。四根虫草加一只鸡要130，我们则点了一份萝卜烧牛肉，25元/盆，为的是补充体力和暖身，另外每人一份面，5元/碗，让厨房把我们从稻城买的过期一个月的火腿肠加进去，这火腿肠还是稻城过期时间最短的！亚丁山上都没有电，只有点油灯。就餐的帐篷里也点了个火盆，不过木头太潮烟太重，在旁边坐着反而受罪。除了这些“点菜”，山上方便面倒是不少，有桶装的。吃过晚餐后也没有什么事情，大家都早早地各自回了帐篷。
D9（09/29）：上牛奶海、五色海，出亚丁回稻城一夜的雨，除了觉得被子太厚，也还算睡得安稳，也许是因为我们在睡前服了红景天的原因吧。钻出帐篷，发现到处都是人和三角架，对着不同的方位。洛绒牛场是拍央迈勇主峰最好的地方，而且在这里能看见三座神山。亚丁其实也就出名在这三山三海了。
我们运气还算可以，竟然看见了央迈勇的日照金山景象，清晨的阳光透过云雾照在雪峰上，使其金光灿灿，我们拍下来的金山峰顶还飘着若有若无的金色的烟雾，给人金山在燃烧的错觉。这一奇景持继了不到5分钟，云层太厚，阳光又被挡住了，四周白茫茫一片。
等到十点，雾还是很浓，无法判断当天的天气情况会是如何，也无从判断。我们决定前往牛奶海，我骑骡马老公步行，还是找的我头天骑的那匹，但需另交70元，老苏不想上山。去牛奶海的路和头天相比，简直不叫路，第一天的路至少保持一米宽，沿路都有人打扫保养，路的两边用水泥铺着；而到牛奶海则完全没有开发，这个景点的骡马费也不包括在管理处租马的140元中。刚走出不到500米，我们来到洛绒牛场前的一片地势平坦的草地，其间有高山雪水化成的小溪，草地因而有不少地方湿潮多水，随便取景，拍下来美不胜收，如果晴天以雪山为背景，以清溪为近景，真的是人间仙境了。太泥的地方有搭两排树干作桥，但骡马负人不敢过，我下马后，马夫大声地鼓励骡马往前走，它倒乖乖地奋蹄过去了。后面有一匹骡子就差了很多，马夫牵着它绕了一大圈才过了小溪。马夫说最好是几匹骡子走在一起比较好，于是我们和后面的一对一起上山，他们也是男的走路女的骑马，不过就常常要停下来等那男的。他们和马夫讲的价是50元。
沿着草甸旁树灌丛中的小路往前行，小路被骡马踩得坑坑洼洼，一路走都看得见几座雪山，只不过它们的身影时不时会掩进雾中，天气很是不好。快到山顶时还下起雨来，一下就没个停，反而越下越大。我们俩都忘了带上雨衣，也没其他雨具，只好淋着往前走，那个辛苦真没法提。路就更难走了，有的地方近90度的坡向上，且还是山上的石头路，马走起来很费劲。有的地方在马背上看着觉得是不可能走过去的，担心很可能会摔下去的，没想到都安全地过了。中途歇了好几次才到牛奶海——高山顶上的海子，水蓝蓝的，也许它的颜色与规模不及九寨，但在神圣的雪峰下有这么一湖净水，要历经如此的艰辛才可以到达，见到它时才会产生对自然的敬意。
比牛奶海更高的地方是五色海，坡太斜骡马上不去，它们爬了这么高的路也该好好歇歇了。两个马夫一个负责在牛奶海看马，一个带我们上五色海。冬冬的体力很好，上到五色海的顶上也没有任何高原反应，还走到五色海岸边拍照。冬冬的好体力得益于每周末雷打不动的踢足球，不过，头天在亚丁管理处向我们介绍的有个男生也说自己踢足球，他同样走着上牛奶海，但却没有体力爬五色海。五色海也就比牛奶海高近百米的坡，但在海拔这么高的地方走路还是很累。老公牵着我的手斜着往上走，遇到我走不动的时候，我就动动小手指表示需要休息——开口说话太费劲了。下坡时斜着走，尽量踩小灌木的根，也没有什么危险地走到小路上。下坡走路的时间多了很多，因为坡度太大，下坡骑骡马很不好走，很多地方骡马都得滑着走，不如走路。
下山的路十分辛苦，因为本来就很不好走，雨又哗哗地下，我在骡背上已经被淋得睁不开眼，到后来冷得全身发抖。回到帐篷，前后我们才用5个小时，算是很快的。两个人的衣服都湿得不能再湿了，连秋裤也是湿的。换了衣服，吃碗热面，我们趁天睛了就让马夫送我们下山了。
上午的天气这么差，有的游客当天刚上洛绒牛场就立马又回去了，但是下午三四点钟阳光又洒了出来，甚至看得见蓝色和白云，高原上的天气就是这样。此时拍出来的照片效果就很不一样，特别是在冲古寺，当时我们已经不觉得景有什么特别，但是冲洗后发现，蓝天、白云、雪峰、牟尼堆、浅溪、绿树是那么的合谐与经典。
珍珠海距冲古寺很近，一路上坡十几分钟就看到一片雪峰下的小平原，再走走就在林木之中见到珍珠海了。湖面平静、碧水悠悠，这是一片十分静谧的所在。在珍珠海亦能望见央迈勇的主峰，其实不进亚丁，就在管理处的门口也能见得到央迈勇的主峰。不少人就等在珍珠海旁，等太阳把雪峰周围的雾驱散，好拍到最美的画面。下山可骑马，不过要另交10元/人。
老苏对稻城失望之余还抱着一丝希望，所以想在洛绒牛场多留一晚，跟他说定第二天中午出亚丁，师傅在门口接他，我们当天傍晚就出了亚丁。由于我的高原反应还是比较明显，这次是头痛，上次在海螺沟爬冰川时是产生幻觉，我们当晚就坐车返回稻城。去稻城唯一的一家温泉泡澡去寒，住喜波登藏家。记得讲好是30元/间，但后来结帐的时候说我们听错了，是30元/人，也罢，住宿条件还不错。
D10（09/30）：色拉半河与藏族美女本来我们的安排是第二天马师傅去亚丁接老苏，没想到这个行程由于马师傅没有营运证而打乱了。马师傅送了那群认识他的年轻人下山后，在第二天从稻城返亚丁的路上接了另一拨要进亚丁的客人，但是在日瓦因为没有营运证而被扣了驾证。我们29号经过日瓦的时候，城管的人已经下班，在小餐馆找到他们后，马师傅同冬冬去磨了不少好话，终于取回了驾照，象征性地被罚了一百块钱，但被告知再看见马师傅进亚丁的话就要扣车了。我们讲明情况之后也丝毫没有可挽回的余地。
只能想办法如何把信带给老苏了。亚丁的通信实在可恨，手机完全没有信号不说，连一个固定电话都没有。头天吃晚餐的时候，我们托了旁边一桌第二天要进亚丁的游客，请他们把我们写的寻人启事交给亚丁管理处。这样做没法保证迅息能准确地传递到老苏那里，但我们当时也没有想到别的办法；后来才想到老马可以找找认识的要进山的司机朋友，请他们把老苏接回稻城，这样也不会发生双方都焦急等待的结果了。老苏没有接到信息，从中午开始就在亚丁管理处门口转悠，直到当天的最后一班客车都走了还是没有见到马师傅，还好遇到有辆政府的车当天六点钟了一定要走，这才得以回来。我们在贵心圆等到最后一班客车回来还是不见老苏，也很心急，猜他是不是还想在里面呆多一天。
上午去离稻城只有五公里远的色拉伴河走了走，在胡杨林里不禁想起《白桦树》这首歌，后来沿小河边走了走，在那里拍到“小牛过河”等好照片。牛群静静地在林中吃草，我们静静地在开满小花的林中感受轻松与写意。下午在民居家中洗了洗湿了的脏了的衣服，天上白云朵朵，阳光明媚。
D11（10/01）：离稻城不远的寺庙早晨车一开出去，正好遇到稻城的民警公安整装大游行，警笛长鸣，警车开道，刺刀在手，是为庆祝国庆吧。我们跟在队伍后面慢慢开，留意着沿街的藏民，他们今天都着了民族服装，男的穿得特别鲜艳，别说，那白的衬衣红的飘带还挺好看的。看到的女孩子好象着装都没有我们住的那家要参加服装节的姑娘美丽高挑，穿得也不如她隆重。服饰是藏民自家的，头一天晚上我们正好看见她妈妈替她试衣服，住在她家里的人都跑去看了。金腰带、银苏、金耳环、金发夹、象小锣一样的金项链、象牙镯子、玛瑙……加上穿的衣服上的豹皮，身上就已经有几十万了，男生笑着说这么贵重，得由保彪抱着去参加服装节啊。
我们今天的计划是去旁（PANG）波寺，这是距稻城20余里的一座喇嘛寺庙，从我们看过的图片来看，它是在一座山的半山腰，就是由于只是从图片上获得相关信息，我们最终去到的不是旁波寺，而是另一座同样也在半山腰的喇嘛庙。尽管去错了地方，我们在这里度过了愉快的上午。远远地望见山腰有一片类似喇嘛庙的建筑，似乎还有白塔，老苏下车问了路边小屋里的居民，我们的车拐上了必经的小木桥。车在弯曲的路上盘旋，遇到两个喇嘛骑着摩托下山，见到我们他们十分热情，说上面正在念经呢。
车一直可以开到寺前，台阶高高，一群喇嘛或站或坐地在门口看着我们下车、拍照。看见我们把相机对着他们，他们中大多数人很不好意思地争相跑下台阶；见冬冬手上的相机能直接看到景物，就一下又围在了他身边。老苏见状，忙把“大炮筒”转而对着冬冬，这张照片一定十分有意思。
直接走进寺庙，里面果然有喇嘛在念经，而且他们念经时配以不同的手势和法器，法器是铃铛，所念的经文可能是手抄的。经得同意，我们可以在寺内拍照摄影，这在很多喇嘛庙中都是不允许的。带我们进殿的喇嘛告诉我们后面还有佛像，走过一段黑黑的楼梯，开了锁，我们见到寺里供奉的八尊金佛。白色、黄色，还有红色的哈达敬献在佛的面前，无数的酥油茶盏，可惜没有点灯。但凡我到过的其他寺庙，佛像都是不可以拍照的，但在这里我们居然有机会拍照，可能是因为这座寺庙不是旅游观光点，所以对游人十分友善。老苏一直感叹要是有阳光，哪怕只有一缕缕照进屋里就好了，因为佛堂之地，窗都开得非常高，屋里挺暗的。
出到寺庙，见到一年约四十多的女喇嘛正在喂马鸡，马鸡长得高大、肥白，啼声响亮。女喇嘛和僧众们在一起，脸上的神情却似一个不谙世事的男孩儿。老苏拉住一位胡须花白的老人给他拍照，女喇嘛扑上去给老人理胡须，动作搞笑、神情自然，可惜没能抓拍到。
返回稻城的路上经过了红草地，一块简单的指示牌告诉我们这就是在稻城的旅游书上见到的闻名的红草地，其实也只是面积不大的一片红色的草地而已，就在路边，远处有一排胡杨，再远就是低缓的山丘了。洗出来的照片意外的美！我们拍完照刚回到车上，突然在窗边出现一位老乡，递给我们一张纸条，上写收到三位游客拍照费用玖元，落章日瓦乡政府。
考虑到我们所有的电器都需要充电，而在稻城只有一家宾馆可以保证不停电，我们当天改住稻城电力宾馆。果然没有停电，而当晚又来了一个大团，电力宾馆的房间当即客满。电力宾馆可以淋浴，不过水仅温温而已，好在有晒衣服的地方。白天出一阵大太阳衣服就可以干了。和电力宾馆在一条街上的在网上赫赫有名的亚丁人社区门口可以贴帖子，可惜没有在那儿找到我们想要的信息。于是下午在稻城县里转悠，见到川A的车就瞎招手，又在稻城唯一的洗车点看了半响，还是没找到第二天回成都的车，只好去客运站买了班车票，每人238，包括保险。当晚在贵心圆吃的牛肉面，小碗3元，大碗5元，很好味。
D12（10/02）：坐班车至康定班车是早晨6:30发车。 5:30起床，6:00背着行李走去车站，十分钟左右。头上的星星很多很近，天还没亮。到得车站，先把包放到车上，然后去贵心圆吃早餐，没多会儿人店里就很多了，都是自己背包的年轻人。
车至理塘，遇到修柏油路，只好停车。理塘是成都至稻城沿路海拔最高的地方，风景也美，路两旁是成群的耗牛，天上是一卷又一卷的白云。司机让我们沿公路走一段，他们开车从路边绕过去。在路边等了N久，还是不见我们的客车，甚至连声音都听不到，大家等得不想再等，于是拦了一辆拖拉机——高原上最能装人、最实用的交通工具。突突突突……大家坐在神气的头发长长的身佩藏刀的藏族司机身后、坐在平平的木板上都很开心，司机还热情地想把我们带回稻城呢。回去一看，我们的车陷到泥地里了，就才开出几百米远。把车拖出来，路刚刚修好，在这儿耽误了足足两个小时。
三点钟吃午饭，遇到下冰雹。广州来的女孩子觉得新奇，还跑到空地里去淋冰雹。吃完饭刚开出去，又遇到查车，车被迫调头，又耽搁了半小时。这一路开出去，见到山口都铺着层白雪。
有一段路是单行线，车走走停停，开不动。当天开到晚上11：00才到康定，夜里又一次地下起冰雹来，但司机一路如风，遇直路则加速，遇弯路减一减，技术奇好。当天晚上只睡四小时不到，第二天四点半就必须回到车上启程。车站有30元/人的普间可以住，不清楚条件如何，因为游客大多挤在门口掏钱。我们往市区里走了走，问了几家酒店的标间，都是折后要二三百，最后住进私人开的小宾馆，叫什么情歌还是情人，40元标间，有公共淋浴间，但临街颇吵，整晚都有大车呼啸而过。在街对面买了康师傅碗面，泡着当晚餐吃了。
D13（10/03）：至成都早上五点，康定车站的车就可以发车了。由于成都至康定在修路，九点半以后从康定发出的车就不让过的了，具体哪个地方是分界点则不太清楚，反正是有这个规定。天亮后，在路上看到金色的贡嘎山脉雪峰顶，遥远、美丽，如神话一般。
开车的有两位司机，今天换了另外一位脾气急的司机。有来电一手讲电话一手开车，照样飞快。而且川藏路那么险，沿线都在修路，但他还是一路摁着喇叭超车，车上的人们都饶有兴趣地和他一起超车。这一次又看了无数军车，不过这次军车正好和我们反方向，上次是同方向，那司机也是一路超军车，超一超对面来车了又躲到一辆大军车后面一会再出来超。巧的是，我们在稻城遇到了去年带我们游康定游海螺沟的司机，当时一见他就觉得很面熟，当时他也曾向我们推荐稻城的秋天，没想到我们竟会在稻城遇上，也真是巧。
山里面的板栗很好吃，只需要2块钱一袋。
原本计划是12点过就能到成都，但由于单向放行，我们下午三点才到雅安，在那儿吃午饭，等到六点钟，车开进成都新南门客站。没想到成都天气那么热，可穿短袖短裤，而我们穿的是毛衣羽绒服，脏兮兮的，像进城打工的民工一样，我们的车也是脏兮兮的。冬冬的好朋友老呆和他的女朋友开了车来接我们，到铁旅洗去一路的灰尘，洗头的水竟然是黑色的！晚上一行四人去吃火锅，舒畅之至，其后三天老呆开车，我们四人到雅安休闲呆了几日，顿顿吃当地特色菜，还特意跑去吃胖大姐黄辣丁，极好吃，回味不已。 (End)
Author: sophiesong
