Find Shambhala
- Trip to Aden Daocheng
Wang beads with
Spring 2003
Know that "Shangri-La" is used because a man named Joseph. Locke wrote a book of foreigners; know "Inagi Aden" is a friend of mine went there last year, 51. According to friends, saying, "there are all you can imagine, there you think outside of everything." For the living and working in busy and noisy cities, people, this is how temptation and attraction ah! So, pick up luggage from beyond imagination and the imagination of the mind, we have embarked on a journey back to Sichuan to find Shambhala.
The first day in Chengdu - Kangding
At 11:00 on the 3rd, we party 4 0) accompanied by Chengdu lazy sun, saying with a smile, looking forward to the start of the 7-day touring trip. A car 16 passengers, all rushed to the Inagi - the hearts of Shambhala pilgrimage to go. In the next days, the help of fellow travelers from Chengdu to go hand in hand with each other along the way will be a "tour guide and traveling companion."
Flat wide into elegant high-speed, spectacular Erlang Mountain Tunnel, green ease of Qingyi water, the darkness, still majestic Luding iron chain bridge, the first day all of the scenery are all viewed in the vehicle. Erlang Mountain Tunnel to Kangding roads, landslides cut off due to many years, so almost every year in mid-bad repair. During the rainy season over, the road management department had to use one-way street the way the exchange of release, taking into account road and access issues. That very night, Yuemo 22:30, we arrived at daytime and in Kangding, even the county has not scrutinize the appearance of a careful, they hurry to find accommodation and eating places.
According to locals say that over the next few days ago, Kangding just snow, so the temperature is very low, especially in the morning and evening. Ever since, the sweater or coat will be much earlier than expected, came in handy. Kangding is not so notorious as the Ganzi prefecture, but one sung for many years, "Kangding Love Song." That Loveable Paoma Shan and the curved moon, handsome and virtuous brother of Lee Chang Sister, almost as a Kangding "image ambassador" to let this small town in western Sichuan has become the Holy Land people's minds yearning for love. There are the famous Mu Gecuo Kangding and towers of public grasslands, because it bought in Chengdu direct Inagi car, so we plan to Kangding on the back of the trip.
The next day Kangding - Inagi
5:40 is still dark night sky Xixishushu stars scattered on the top of the head. Yawned, we began the next day's itinerary. We are out of the city along the Sichuan-Tibet line, at the mouth of Yuemo is a city where the driver has "arbitrarily" means a bit to the left, and told us that that is the famous Pao Mashan. Because it has not yet fully awake, so we go along with Chou Chou had gone to sleep right again. So, we have come so gently at night, early morning to walk softly, do not take a little memory and impressions.
Has a feel awake in the morning before 7 am, the car is continuous, it seems never to go through the endless mountains. Gradually, close to the snow-covered peak. Suddenly, the Peak blowing cold and the snow-capped mountains of the surprise finally see an immediate active interior atmosphere. People began to take hold in a full day of utensils, targeting distant snow-capped mountains, burst a quick photo. At that time we were climbing over the height of 4410 meters of the folded mountainous. The assertion that the Kangding Tibetan for "discount and more", meaning "streamer dihydrate under the intersection of the office" happens to fall on the ancient city of Kangding sit Paoma Shan, the Pentium zheduo raging river which traverses the city before, and North to the Yarra rivers meet at the Guo Da Yamashita, forming "three hills surrounding the dihydrate clip flow" of the landscape. Folded mountainous we are experiencing the first of more than 4,000 meters high mountain ranges, coupled with the first time in this trip to see snow-capped mountains, so mountain sickness is not obvious.
May be because the world over the last two snow, so the sky with thick clouds, hardly unique to the plateau we had imagined the blue sky. Of course, there is no way Jiugen overlooks the many users and travelers referred to the "Shu King" - Gongga Mountain.
Kangding to Daocheng must go through the town are: xinduqiao, Essex River and Litang. This road is mainly gravel road, traffic can be summarized as: "bend over, rotten way more rock and more shaking over Britain." Come before heard xinduqiao is a photographer's paradise. When witnessed, as if the painting generally. The oval-shaped outline without modification of the poplar, yellow leaves of red and white dotted just right to the residential areas in the Kham Tibetan scattered between the meandering and leisurely flowing stream of cattle and sheep to the calm and peaceful images added Many apathy. Tibetans and Tibet Tibetan Kham different, said similarities between the two languages are not. Houses here are all from local materials, to the construction of stone as the material is made of natural simplicity. Because all the people of Tibetan religious believers, the local residents in housing completion, will ask the local Buddhist monks chanting song, and said that peace with the white painted a bright corner of the window frame and pray for happiness. Roof of the wind flowing streamer with day after day, year after year to the heavens and the earth description, that tells the story of the Tibetan people's respect for nature, and the expectations and all things of nature friendly.
After a xinduqiao continue to be rolling mountains, and low shrubs with us for the plateau before the trip. 146 kilometers, we came to the town Yajiang. Unlike most mountain town in Sichuan Province, as Yajiang is still built on mountains, the city's main street thoroughfare crossing the same shoulder the heavy responsibility (the famous Sichuan-Tibet line to go through here). After a brief stay, we have embarked city of Litang.
Litang is the only way to go Inagi, the county seat for more than 4200 meters above sea level, was able to honor "the world's high city." Litang is a shaluli mountains at the foot of a large meadow, broad vision. The distant snow of the summit, blue sky, combined with yellow brown meadow, outlined the magnificent and broad plateau. Stand on such a landscape in the pictures of people seem so small, so insignificant. County population has a tall arch, a letter to the "World High City Litang," a few characters I do not know is something we always like comments a "world first", or by-product of the tourism industry, in short, personally feel that this piece of St. Paul is not a reason Tong, does not belong here, mountains and blue sky. In Litang to eat lunch, met here, who run their own businesses in Mianyang, really admire their courage and strategy, actually went to such a high place to make money, "high, really high!" At this moment, we have four have begun to gradually appear more obvious reaction to the altitude, so prepare the plateau medicine - Rhodiola, glucose will be started and will continue to be our scenery to enjoy a strong guarantee for the plateau.
Bid farewell to Litang, we experienced this trip in the worst weather and road conditions. 150 km from Litang to Inagi distance, we have to climb two main mountain ranges: Cacalia Hill and Haizi Shan. Starting today, when the driver had been listening to our lips these two landscapes. In particular, Haizi Shan, from the pictorial point of view of Haizi various shapes and sizes, reflected upside the blue sky, such as the dolphin blue turquoise set in the deserted rooms Haizi Shan. Haizi Shan is said to have more than 3,000 large and small, Haizi, so my mind there appeared a picture of the carpet studded with gems. However, bad weather, the dark clouds of the horizon, the more set of the more thick and gradually shift to us. Take a look at the driver later told us that this weather is no way that we could see the album on a strange and beautiful scenery. Was a little disappointed, but still hidden with a look forward to.
Sometimes really lament the idea of making the World principal strange and originality, can escape the cold hard stone so that the present variety of shapes. Cacalia Hill is a good example of ease on top of the mountain, surprised to give birth to a pair of life-like rabbit ears, but must go to the front of mountains, there is a certain angle we go watch. Although the Cacalia mountain peak across the nearly 6,000-meter high (This is an excellent place to see Cacalia Hill), but we are still happily off camera. Just got off, there is no mental preparation I was top of the hill the wind blew almost did not stand firm, is that they both fiercely biting cold winds of the plateau is really a little bit not meet. Because the Cacalia Hill already feeling a little headache (apparent altitude sickness), so I will soon be the wind "blowing back to the car."
Next, have piled up thick clouds, the sky growing dark, take a look at the table until 16 o'clock before, suddenly suspected to have taken place than their watches two hours slow reaction to the altitude. Because there is no blue sky and white clouds, Haizi Shan seems a bit too quiet deserted, leaving only some road workers in removing the ban tao Duan Qiang left over after the black stove and shiver in the wind. At this time, front of the car window all of a sudden the "rain" hit the glass, the driver told us that this is not the rain, small hail. Everyone does not believe, open the windows a look, was surprised - indeed is the hail. Wrapped very solid snowball, rhythmically beating in the car, glass, as if music in general is, indeed, just a little bit boring for everyone adding to a bit of fun, but also have made up that we did not encounter good weather regret. Think, no matter what the event environment, wind, frost, snow and rain, or sunshine, as long as experienced is wealth - remember the depths of eternal spiritual wealth. In retrospect, that period of time is actually a very dangerous road, because the hail, the sky darkened line of sight is unclear, coupled with large stones Haizi Shan mountain roads more slippery so bumpy, there could be a slight mistake dangerous. Hanging ah!
Turn the Haizi Shan after entering the jurisdiction of Daocheng county road becomes a wide flat. Inagi red side has an odd grasslands (sumdo), is a photographer's ideal subject. If you happen to have a robust yak leisure Duo into your vision, then your picture will become alive Smart up.
To reach the county seat is already 6:00 before. Our party of 14 individuals and unified the next day and bought tickets to the classes of Aden. Have heard about 4 km away from the county has a Ru Buchaca hot springs, relying on the Tibetan areas last year in Hot Springs miyaluo good feelings and memories, we decided to go after dinner, "welcome home." Today we are on the 4th, so in groups one after another bundle of Aden has been withdrawn by the mountains. However, due to the recent bad weather two days, visitors to the many, many visitors do not see anything on the downhill, and it is said to stay very difficult. We have heard complaints from time less than kind words. As a result, according to Tibetan antelope (self-help travel manual) the introduction, we have found a well-known local netizen "snow wolf child" open "self-travel center" to the center line of detailed consultation with the Aden, Yemen, and precautions. It is worth mentioning that, according to service personnel, and sleeping up the mountain belt is a necessity Ganqiao center has just been bought from Chengdu with a group of sleep, so we immediately rented a 4. Later, the travel experience proves that we slept with the decision of the original loan is wise.
In the washed 5 yuan / person spa, we do feel a lot of fresh bodies, but the attendant was more pronounced mountain sickness - headaches and thirst. Only later did I hear the locals say that the first day of mountain sickness is not suitable for immediate hot springs, this will only increase the reaction to high altitudes. Even so, we also had endured headaches to sleep in the dream Inagi.
Although I am not a Buddhist, but heard of Aden since the beginning of the bad weather, I have been to the holy mountains to pray silently in their hearts the hope that the gods will bring us good weather and beautiful scenery legend. I almost looked on this blessing to sleep in ... ...
Day Daocheng - Chonggu Si - Pearl harbor
8:00 early morning, cold, dry air, we seem to smell the warmth of the sun - Kamiyama heard my prayers and gave me the most sincere welcome. So, I began to believe that "Xinchengzeling", began to Kamiyama had respect.
1 Inagi town, village landscape is to the famous salad villages and riverside. Last night's heavy snow to view everything in the scene is wrapped silver dress, of a vast expanse of whiteness, bright glare to some degree. The foot of the mountains a little distance along the white mist, making us feel like being in the sea of clouds and peaks. In everyone's strong demand, we stop for a few minutes silver in the world enjoy the happiness!
Inagi to Aden, 110 km away, almost all mountain, in the snow-capped mountains, forests and streams between the walk through the past three and a half hours. In the meantime, your eyes no rest time, if not take the shuttle bus, really want to be able to stop and watch every scenic moment. Plateau is a colorful autumn, autumn, nature's color palette with the hands to make this world a gorgeous tone, and the generous gift of the people living here for generations, as well as tourists from afar.
Let us the most unforgettable hospitality of the local Tibetans. From Kangding out until the Gulf of Aden, along the way are always able to see an innocent but very sincere Zhang child's face - the kind typically have a Gaoyuanhong face. There is no modification of the smile, with the surrounding snow-capped mountains, grasslands, and the blue sky appeared so Baita harmony. It is said that the local school to teach students when you see the car travel must salute welcomed. Here the purity of a child infected with us, so they see Tibetans, we will take the initiative to greet them, they will and good and friendly smile and waved to us to express their feelings of welcome. Really is, "one soil to support the party people."
Aden (pronounced Green Day Song Gongbu Gongga) Nature radius of more than a thousand square kilometers, the main points are three completely separate parts, but not far, and was "goods"-shaped arrangement of the composition of the peaks. North Peak is regarded as a "Guanyin" in Xian Nairi, elevation 6032 meters for the first mountains, the southern peak Yangmai Yong is "Manjusri", height 5958 meters, Dongfeng, "King Kong Buddha" Xianuoduoji 5958 meters. There are more than 30 large and small peaks around the mountain peaks everywhere, scenery spectacular.
Starting 73 km from the Inagi, arriving at the Geneva Township. From the Japanese tile, there are two core areas leading to Aden nature reserve. Mengzi into a gorge, after the fire to know tie Lang (Kamiyama gate) into the Gongga silver trenches, on the Chonggu Si, worship Kamiyama. The other path to the right up, no entry "shining mountain" in Russia Hatsuyama. Mountains and across the vast expanse of Russia and the beginning of the virgin forest, down into the narrow and steep, turbulent waterfalls in the East Valley justice by Cass ditch, they can reach heaven - read Green Day Song Gongbu Gongga. We took a shuttle chose the former route. In fact, do not care where you choose which one line, because the casual way to turn your eyes and cameras will not idle, and you had no time to lament any of a beauty.
Around 11:30, we reached the village about 2 km from the Gulf of Aden at the ridge ridge dam, here is the entrance of Aden scenic area, scenic area management office is also set up ticket office rent horses. Mostly because of the way up the mountain horse Road, combined with a few days ago it rains, roads muddy, so many tourists choose riding up the mountain.
After some inquiry, in the management arrangements for holding the next four groom their horses smiling to us. Of which three Tibetan men Yuemo 40-year-old, all-bronze with dark complexion. Qian Ma for me one who looked almost 50 years old, outdated set of the thin uniform green sweaters, robes tied waist, a pair of green shoes covered with mud. In order to let me sit comfortable, where he has been finishing in the saddle and for the horse tie-down belt. We are the only female cavalry in their head - "captain." In a later conversation that she called in the pro-37 years old, the family has a husband and a son. In the pro-heads is not high, because the spirit had a cold so she looked very good. Even so she was still, like everyone else to help us back luggage, as in Qian Ma. They are living in the pro-day journey from here in the village every year to take advantage of holidays, a time when many tourists come earn some money. Because distressed that their horses, so they are holding horses Aden went from home, and has never been reluctant to ride, which is why they prefer their own luggage to help tourists do not want to give back more than horse back reasons. Ah here is the Tibetan people, they themselves around an object is treated as a grass their friends, and their equal treatment, live in peace!
Followed in the congested cavalry, walking in the Linjian Xiao Road, and contains pine hanging garden trees pass by, and joyful leaping streams waving hello, excitement and happiness is intertwined with climbing in mind. The legendary Shangri-La - the last Shangri-La on their own side, I really do not believe that some - because the first two days of hard journey, let us have too much of this land, the anticipation and imagination, Kamiyama has become so very remote inaccessible, so mysterious and sacred ... ...
Aden's main attractions are three paragraphs: Chonggu Si, pearl harbor - Luorongniuchang - milk sea, colored sea, an elevation from 2800 meters to 5000 meters. From the ridge ridge dam about 30 minutes ride to reach the Chonggu Si. Chonggu Si is located at the foot of modesty Xiannai Ri, being tall and straight Xialuoduoji, is an excellent point of photography.
Chonggu Si is a nearly abandoned temple, under the Gonggar Temple Lang Darjeeling. Severe destruction of the monastery, a collapsed buildings, the main prayers of the two-story building remaining a small stone temple - is no different from ordinary residential areas, and by turning the wheel inside a single stone. When we visited this temple, if not see the door, placed a small stone shrine Mani pile, really did not expect such a worn-out even a small hospital, is a famous Chonggu Si. Staying in the temple to welcome our two monks in a friendly manner to visit their temples. Said to be temples, but the first floor houses all the daily life of monks goods and facilities, with the ordinary Tibetan people, was very similar home. However, some dark and the second layer is a very real one is a small by the Church. The halls for a clay Buddha, lit butter lamps, with Buddha sleeping couch. According to Lama introduction, the monastery has more than 2,000 years of history, there have been a number of Living Buddhas of Mt this. Perennial stationed in the monastery monks chanting three Shou Temple, they have been here two years previously. Because of all the people of Tibetan religious believers, so a lot of kids very young age and becoming a Tibetan monk, the immediate of these two is the case: a 25-year-old, a 12-year-old, another was on a hill can not turn never met. They are stationed in the three perennial Chonggu Si, chanting self-cultivation, for the faithful and from Mt to provide a rest stop areas. They did not feel dull and bored, because they talk about the temple a long proud history of expression to tell us that they rotate through the wheel when the forced expression of pious told us that they welcome and send off when the high mountains on the enthusiasm of the Tibetan grandmother told us. Perhaps in their hearts, they are now doing every thing in them step by step closer to their ideal, close to their hearts the holy place ... ...
From Chonggu Si riding about 20 minutes walk 40 minutes to reach Xiannai Ri at the foot of Pearl Sea - Zhuo Mala measures. Emerald cypress and pine trees cover hidden in the mountain pearls between the sea and the lake's mirror-like reflected upside-pine forest and Xian Nairi Graceful figure, reflected upside the lake Mani heap flowing hada, reflected upside the Tibetan the people of beautiful and pure wishes. Close to the pro-mouth mutter prayers devout toward the Xian Nairi prayed and bowed she did not know what to say, but satisfied smile from her could see that she believed the Goddess of Mercy will be able to help her achieve their aspirations.
Since entering the Gulf of Aden after scenic area, in addition to snow-capped mountains, meadows, pine forest and yak, the journey even if Mani had piled up. The size of our mountain roads, a few steps is a Mani heap, sizes, but they are into a "pyramid" shape, you can see some bigger chunks of stone engraved with the Tibetan language. French scholar Stein in the "Tibet's civilization" have been recorded in the Mani in the origins of the heap: this all pass through the narrow winding path often encounter piles of stones, that is, Mani Peak heap, mainly white. Mani heap sixth engraved the famous mantra: Om Mani Padme moo (or Om Mani Padme moo, that is, Sanskrit Om mani Padme hum). Above, there are some stick inserted, and used a rope to pull a tree or a cliff, hanging on a rope or some rag of paper read, qi gong, called the "Wind Horse" (rlung-rta). The talus has been called "a knight's castle" (dpa '- mkhar), sometimes also specifically explained that the "god of war the castle", (dgra - lha), where people are singing the praises of song or preaching. The stones engraved with the sixth mantra is specially engraved Lama's, and when they turn 11 on the Mani heap mountains. And more of the stones are from the many ordinary Tibetans at the mountain again and again switch to turn the water accumulated during the set up.
Chonggu Si down to the sea from the Pearl, we pro-the cavalry with the appointment the next day's itinerary - Luorongniuchang, milk, sea and colored sea, and set a good Chonggu Si camp accommodation. Chonggu Si tent camp set up year-round for visitors to and from accommodation, but also Gonggar Lang Darjeeling monastery monks sent by the management on this.
In the tourist season, in addition to the tents all year round, the monks will be temporary structures of wood houses as temporary hotels. As Aden development time is very short, naturally associated facilities and equipment is also very simple - or rather rudimentary. One into the temporary wooden huts, wooden Chase 20 shops, 7 pm to 7 am, before morning the only one powered lights, no windows but still a trace of wind, wooden wall, and replace the doors with curtains, all in all makes you suddenly understand what "simple"! However, such a situation may give a person like me, deep down, another emotion breed - I had the capital to show off to friends, or at least I'm still more than 4,000 meters above sea level stayed in the mountains, but also so it goes on The lived! ! !
The autumn, the snow-capped mountains at the foot of a mountain stream next to the start tablecloths, spread of food, to appreciate against the background under the valley Kamiyama, an autumn leaf, cattle, goats and pedestrians, to listen to gurgling stream played the Sound Of Nature. Easy for people to enjoy this immersive, long time unable to extricate themselves. While ate hard tack, drinking boiled water is cold, but our mood is so pleasant - the kind of pleasure when a child spring tour. Then all of a sudden doubt, the majority of people in the city all day long for this for that fight with, the loss, confusion and were not know for what? In fact, when you are sitting in the simplicity of nature, you will find people are actually very simple, bluntly, is nothing but all things in the community, with the snow-capped mountains insignificant compared to how many do not know. Snow-capped mountains in the process of its formation did not know how many experienced the trials and tests, but she is still standing strong in there, and the most beautiful aspect of her show to the world. In addition, the Tibetans living here for generations, according to modern standards, their living conditions can be said to be bad, but they still live off the strong, but still very happy very happy, because they feel Kamiyama together.
Back to the camp, we met here, "Dreaming Inagi" author - photographer Lu Hailin. The Guangdong and Zhejiang-born photographer has arrived in Aden for 3 consecutive years, every time a few months to switch to mountain photography. According to Lu teacher talk, in order to wait for great light in his mind, he often had to rack the camera, silently waiting for several hours. Because the endless beauty of Aden a shot - early morning and sunset, early spring and late autumn, Aden always show you strange things strange scene.
Many travel handbooks on both said that there is an always open Chonggu Si pot, where you can cook yourself to eat, you can also sitting around a warm stove in the Lama speaks tirelessly Aden waterfront to listen to their stories. Although some dim light in the room, stove soot Although some wind around, but when the monks fed to steaming yak butter tea, we feel warm enthusiasm into the heart. Butter tea taste a bit strange, if you add fried barley flour, a bit like adding the butter sesame paste. However, because butter and barley are high-calorie foods, it is to alleviate the effect of altitude sickness - what a peer-old) with deep feeling.
The plateau at night as if a solid black velvet, above the stars bright patchwork place Zhuizhuo, gorgeous diamond necklace of the Milky Way like the general lie in the night sky. We are the only four in the Chonggu Si restaurant after eating half-baked dinner and saw the same car Hill 5 Mix 2) are the evenings. One from Hong Kong, Lao Li is an astronomy enthusiast, he once took on the Meili Snow Mountain LP 4 the stars - more romantic! Lao Li patiently explained to us Cowboy Vega, Queen Star, Seven Star, and so white bucket. At this point, I feel we are really close a lot from the Star, almost reaching can pick the.
For many years of us living in the sea level in the last 4,000 meters of altitude, at night in October where the plateau is definitely a test. Lama ready to shop for each one a quilt and a blanket by us a ride, a paved running out, and the night cold 0 degrees or below is almost entirely the work of our "snow wolf child" where the rented sleeping with 3) to take a. And so many people have never slept together, we like the neatly arranged next to the silkworms, like, I do not know how to fall asleep. As the nose is all blocked on the left of LG, one night, they did better than us; the right side of Lulu mother holding a water bottle at night seems to be off; I, due to wearing a sweater to bed, his arms stretched out to several hot water zone, He said that I Gaode old sleepwalking Chonggu Si; old what the worst since the beginning of Daocheng almost no way that night to sleep - has been plagued by headaches. I think will be our unforgettable night in a hostel experience as difficult, and because the special!
On the fourth day Chonggu Si - Luorongniuchang - ridge ridge dam
Morning 7 am, with the monks out "the sun came out, sunshine Jinshan the" cries, is lingering in the warmth of our sleeping with a fire, as firefighters have heard in general, bass to look neatly drilled from the sleep zone, quick and neat pack Ting Dang, grabbed cameras and video camera, a stride and we rush out and rushed to seize the favorable topography, snap a rare "sunshine Jinshan."
Protected area is located in the northwest corner of the Xian Nairi, facing the East to meet the morning of the first ray of sunshine. Sunshine oblique to the snow-covered mountains, just to be in the Xiannai Ri peak on both sides of the sub-peaks, golden yellow, only for the spectacular. Yellow Sect of Tibetan Buddhism, according to the statement Xiannai Ri peak on both sides of the second peak is the Goddess of Mercy surrounded by two followers (known as the Green Tara). Xian Nairi at this time, in the early morning blue and gray skies, there is no trace of the surrounding mist-shrouded, contour clarity, the posture is still, an indescribable sense of the sacred wells up.
I moved, and kept pressing the hands of the shutter, and wanted to see this rare one square inch of the scenic photos of income, the record of the Cassette of 6mm. Suddenly discovered around a familiar figure in the agitation of the crowd shuttle - still say that today was originally just intended to rest in the camp was not prepared to join us on a cattle farm of the old Ho. He looked a bit tired, is to find a perfect photographic base anxious - as a unique professional photographers can be seen 4).
After breakfast, we would be today without the backpack and sleeping bags placed in a cabin of the lamas, and the appointment yesterday, joined the cavalry once the necessary Luorongniuchang embarked. Since yesterday, cold in the possession of some serious (Yesterday, we gave her some cold medicine, although there is no lack of good Tibetan medicine and pharmacology, but here in Tibetan areas such as the cure for a cold day to day diseases these drugs is that they are most lacking) So, today, by his husband for her to come. Today's weather is sunny, just staged a "sunshine Jinshan," the sun has slowly climbed the mountain top, the generous warmth of our shed.
When Xian Nairi gradually disappeared after the middle of our field of vision, Xialuoduoji mountain road into the woods at the foot. The world because the former two had rain, mud-paved Ma Tao special mud. We sat on horseback on the side of the horse should always keep the foot in order to adjust their sitting position, on the other but also the way the branches overhead carefully to avoid scratching himself. At this time it was too late to enjoy shooting down through the branches, the mottled sunlight, there was no time to listen to the stream around the crisp music. In Yuemo 20 minutes later, we passed through the woods, eyes open one - Yakou arrived, at the foot of the road has become dry hard. Suddenly we have a long sigh of relief - finally able to relax about the whole thing.
And the groom began chatting, and talk to their families, talk their lives. Unconsciously, the tall and straight and beautiful Yang Maiyong leisurely toward us. 3 Kamiyama among Xiannai Ri feels like a seated Buddha - charmingly naive, Xialuoduoji pyramid is like a statue standing in the mountains - bold and effective; while dressed in white gauze like Yang Maiyong of young Women's - graceful luo variety. All the way tourists have collapsed while walking beat, where absolutely no shortage of Southern Gardens "also step is King." From a different point of view, with the clouds, swim, Yang Maiyong constantly showing us her sentimental side.
In this way stop-go and spent a half an hour's time, we arrived at Luorongniuchang. Goba than I imagined little more, this is the mountains, a relatively flat meadow - There is also the establishment of protected areas, the second concentration camp. Cattle market have gathered a lot of tourists, is not that big of cattle a bit busy - move around carrying his tripod camera, and riding ring linger everywhere, and the rest of the tourists let horses graze Tibetan groom.
Among the many horses in, LG suddenly discovered a white horse - do not own Prince Charming, but always remembered the white horse enjoyable! A closer look, Qian Ma of Tibetan women is the possession of the original - she will come up. Do not know why, she felt the special kind we see today, like an old friend for years, and I quickly stepped forward to ask her mother Lulu disease can be better, is not what medicine is also needed - everything is true feelings, without the slightest pretentious. To see if we are so like the white horses, two in possession of husband and wife, let us go up 4 11 tried to test their skills in the pro-husband gave us a special presentation of the authentic Kham-style riding. Front of our camera lens, looking a little shy, he is still showing a bit proud look.
After riding a horse, in the possession of the husband to do guide, and we go the same way a solicitation of Xiao Jin, Lao Li their five, we started this trip the most difficult, but also the most challenging hiking trip - Milk Sea colored the sea. This is a distance of about 800 meters above sea level difference along the way are mostly muddy horse Road, there are relatively steep slopes. Because yesterday Chonggu Si, had just witnessed a sea of milk down the Shanghai MM because of the severe altitude sickness has emerged from that scene - pale, bluish lips, difficulty breathing, kept by his companions to help her hand-wringing, and speak to her, hot water their feet, brown sugar, ginger, plus oxygen bottles, before regaining her - so I said to myself reduced requirements: whatever, do not Chengneng, can count to see how much!
This journey is for the local Tibetans, but the ordinary mountain section of its ordinary, but they have to go in mid-section of Mt. But this they have to do is take a half hour journey Walsh said, as the challenges of our own physical fitness and physical condition of the plateau of hard trip. This way, I walk apart from stepping on the footprints in front go the same way forward hurry, almost did not look at a lot of scenery, even the rest, some water is also busy quickly, or eating a chocolate to replenish their energy 5), or else to do deep breathing. From time to time to scrutinize what has been keeping us ahead and in front of Yang Maiyong call our Xiannai Ri 6), the eyes more of a prayer, pray that we can smoothly and successfully and safely, "ascent." Along the way we encourage each other and helped each other, I hope we can reach the hearts of the holy Haizi, list three mountain style. However, if anyone is in the body too much, we were still security-focused. We are the first of nine decided to withdraw from what is old, he waved goodbye to us after they returned to cattle to continue to take pictures, waiting for us. In nearly half of the distance traversed, the Lulu mother because of breathing a little rapidly, a bit difficult to catch up, he decided to advance down the mountain. She was a man down because of fear of insecurity, we have to get her into a middle-aged women turn Tibetan mountain took her away. In this way, the remaining seven individuals, to continue upward climb. LG started and I could keep up with the pace of their Xiao Jin, but in the last roughly less than 1 / 5 the distance, our reaction to high altitudes becoming increasingly clear - much faster heart beat, almost jumped out quickly from the throats, and breathing some difficulties, respiratory rate has accelerated noticeably. In particular, LG, in plain heartbeat just over 60 / s, he had already been to more than 100 / s of the. Although we have been in the mountains of baggage in the process of a transfer to a pro in her husband's shoulders - he was virtually tied him up, even the back of the head is also a bag, but we still feel the foot of the steps increasingly heavy, in front of goal has always been so far. In the end, I began to pick up around the stones can not help but reverently placed in the roadside Mani heap, for no other, so the only we can quickly reach their destination ... ...
About three and a half hours later, in our field of vision has finally appeared in a flowing streamer - I know that lake pretty soon. However, when I really see the sea of milk, I would like to immediately find a place to sit down in addition to, something to eat, drink to water, imagine the thrill and excitement have long gone - but that is a look at this plateau not have been more common on the ordinary lake Well!
Because the extremely weak and the reaction to high altitudes along the way, the mountains of the process, we have not recorded anything - no photos, no video.在简单吃过压缩饼干和肌苷片（非常有效的高原药）之后，我们自感没有体力象其他人一样，再往上攀登100米去看五色海和俯视牛奶海，于是我和LG决定拿着摄像机和照相机，慢慢地摇到湖边去拍点牛奶海的尊容，以便给老何和璐璐妈有所交待。湖边风很大，湖面泛起的波纹，将天空的蓝揉碎了，撩动着，荡进我们的心底。伸手去试探湖水的温度，冰凉却释放着神山的热情。举起摄像机，将镜头对准雪山和飘着云湛蓝的天空，就地旋转，希望能将这360度的和谐与宁静带给远方的家人7)。
考虑到我俩的体力问题，商量后决定由中拥的丈夫留下来等其余继续上山的几位，我和LG先下山了。回程的路似乎要快多了，但是水壶中有着很浓的马味的水所剩无几——灌的是冲古寺那口永远开着的大锅中的水，我俩像上甘岭中的战友一般，把最后一口水推来让去。最后只好望梅止渴——要是眼前有一罐冰镇可乐那该是何等的享受，并发誓今晚下山之后一定要买一瓶饮料解馋！以至于回到牛场后，我立即找到管理处，问他们讨来半开的水，美美地灌上满满的一壶——这就是幸福，当时我就这么觉得！
我们这一上一下大约花了6个小时，等我们下到牛场时已经是下午5点过了，老何在等到璐璐妈回到牛场后便一起骑马回冲古寺营地了。考虑到冲古寺住宿条件和海拔较高，我和LG买了从牛场直接回垅垅坝的马票，准备夜宿垅垅坝。由于天色渐渐变暗，我俩的马夫都过来照应我，LG便独自骑马下山。我们就这样一路继续聊着天，快步赶回了冲古寺。
等我们回到冲古寺的时候，星星已经在天边闪烁，与冲古寺点亮的灯火相映成趣。冲古寺木屋前等待我们的是老何和璐璐妈焦急的目光，看到我们安全回来，他们好是高兴！在简单的交换意见之后，我们迅速地收拾所有的行李，准备好手边的电筒，翻身上马向垅垅坝赶去。这时候，冲古寺的游客越积越多，差不多是昨天的3倍，几乎所有的帐篷和木屋都派上了用场8)。
从冲古寺回垅垅坝虽然只有30分钟的路程，但是算上马夫我们8个人总共才有两把电筒，只好一前一后的照着赶路。还好这里晚上的星星多而且都很亮，再加马儿的视力比人的要好（马夫语），听着清脆的马铃声，我们很快就到了垅垅坝。安排好住宿后，和相处了两天的中拥的马队告别了，我们终于实现了不久前的愿望——花5元钱买了一罐梦想的健力宝，真的好幸福！
第五天亚丁——稻城因为临近国庆尾声，到亚丁的客流量明显减少，因此从稻城到亚丁的班车便不再准时发车和到达。在经过了一番折腾和讨价还价之后，我们四个包租了一辆北京吉普——切诺基返程。终于可以弥补前天上山时一路错过的景色了，车虽然很小，但是我们的心情经过这么两天来的沉淀已经平静和开阔了许多。一路上，老何和LG，一个为当初准备行李时由于容积有限没能多带一个广角镜而叹息着，一个信誓旦旦地说回去后咬咬牙也要买个高级一点装备才对得起这一路走来的艰辛；璐璐妈和我却在为我们日渐干涸龟裂的嘴唇想方设法。最近两天天天阳光灿烂，道路不泥泞了，却尘土飞扬起来了。司机们熟练地在蜿蜒曲折的上路上你追我赶，生怕落在别人后面吃扑面而来的“滚滚红尘”。
为我们开车的师傅是当地的藏族，起初讲价的时候，打死也不松口，然而当一切都谈妥之后，纯朴真诚的一面便显露无遗。他的话不多，但是几乎是毫无怨言地一一满足了我们停车的要求。
回程的路上，除了依然叹为观止的美景以外，就算藏族当地人民的笑容给我们留下了深刻的印象。亚丁村口，天真无邪儿童阳光般灿烂的笑；马路边，偶遇采天然雪水洗头的康巴少女们恬淡害羞的笑；日瓦乡绿野饭店门口，86岁老奶奶满脸皱纹里，日复一日年复一年永恒的沧桑的笑。每一张脸呈现的是不一样的生活状态，却承载着相同的生活态度和理念——笑对生活，笑对大自然。
在亚丁和日瓦之间有一座非常有名的黄教寺庙——贡嘎郎吉岭寺。贡嘎郎吉岭寺，简称贡岭寺，藏语是“雪山洲”的意思。这座始建于明朝初年的寺庙，也是稻城境内最大的黄教寺庙。创建人是甲布康珠Ÿ罗城颠回，原占地500余亩，僧侣300余人。寺庙中存有一尊鎏金弥勒佛像，相传是五世达赖喇嘛赠送于该寺。文革时期幸好由当时的小喇嘛藏起来，今日才得以重现。寺内壁画精美绝伦，建筑具有传统的藏传佛教的特色——高耸直立的白色外墙，朱砂红勾绘的墙线窗洞，独特窗眉装饰的小开口窗，精妙的宗教壁画，大幅藏转佛教挂画和屋顶饰物。两座大殿虽然毁于文革时期，但是在过去20几年的精心修复下，仍然气势雄伟庄严。十世班禅大师曾亲临贡岭寺坐床讲经。在该寺内还存有1022个释迦牟尼金菩萨和众多历史传说文献等。
更为幸运的是，我们恰好遇见了该寺最近才找到的传说中神秘的活佛转世灵童，并且接受了活佛的“摸顶”。该寺共有活佛8位，其中4位在海外讲法，其余4位仍留在寺内。我们看到的两位转世灵童活佛，将在贡岭寺修学数年，然后远赴西藏拉萨的布达拉宫进修几年，最后再回到贡岭寺正式为信徒讲经颂佛。藏族人民全民信教，教派众多。不仅有原始宗教——本教，还有藏传佛教的若干流派，如：红教、花教、白教和黄教，而其中又数黄教影响最大。黄教的始主是宗巴卡，旗下两名得意门徒便是达赖和班禅，在贡岭寺的雕像中根据等级排列对黄教的历史均有所记述。无论是神秘的转世灵童，还是虔诚的大众信徒,藏传佛教总是给人以深邃和神奇的感觉，就像雪山和湖水一样将永远吸引着一批又一批的朝圣者。
下午近5点的时候，我们如坐在敞篷车里一般回到了稻城，满脸满身被灰尘裹了个严实，于是另一个急切的愿望成为当时的第一需要——洗澡！我们舍弃了非常希望尝试，但是没法洗澡的藏寨，特地挑选了“藏羚羊”介绍过的交通宾馆。谁知道，这里却和我们开了一个不大不小的玩笑。我们在简单地洗脸，收拾之后，本打算先填饱肚子，再洗个热水澡然后踏实地睡个觉。然而。当我们酒足饭饱回到宾馆的时候，管理人员却告知我们今天的热水（其实就是温泉）供应，已经在半个小时之前结束了。原来，在当地人看来再正常不过的热水控制供应，对我们来讲却不可思议9)。最后，我们还是到茹布查卡温泉了却了这桩心愿。
第六天稻城——康定坐上从稻城到康定的汽车之后，几天来一直处于兴奋状态的我们忽然松懈了下来，几天来一直忙碌的眼睛也不再对回程路上的风景产生任何的特殊反应。我们所能做的事情就是睡觉，在颠簸如摇篮的汽车上闭目养神。身边有几位好像是网上约定的驴友们还在兴致勃勃地回味，特别是一位从丽江徒步穿越到达亚丁的驴友（也许这才算是货真价实的驴友）引起了我们的注意。因为此时此刻，我和璐璐妈的一位南京的同事也许正徒步在从丽江道亚丁的山路上10)。
路上，我们便提前预订了康定城汽车队的招待所。到了房间，我们的感觉跟住进了四星级宾馆的感觉一样——这里居然有独立的卫生间和热水器——够奢侈！
吃过晚饭之后，我们决定逛一逛上次几乎没有印象的康定城。我和璐璐妈还希望一能买到漂亮的藏族饰品，二能找一个理发店再奢侈一把——洗洗我们已经不太好意思见人的头发。
康定城位于跑马山下，康定河贯穿争整座县城。河西基本上是旧城，街道狭窄，房屋多为两三层的砖瓦房。河东则是近几年新建的新城，几座较大的酒店都位于新城。跑马山上几束探照灯来回的穿梭，更增添了一点城市的感觉。但是康定河湍急的水声仍然提醒着我们，这是一座山区的城市，离大自然还是那么的近。
在亚丁和我们一路的老李在亚丁多留了一天，小金她们两个在新都桥留下了，只有小山东两口和我们乘一部班车到了康定，并约好了次日一同到离康定不远的木格错。逛完之后，在回招待所的路上，我们偶遇了一位独自出游的成都女孩，于是我们又临时组建了一个7人团队，准备第二天开向木格错——野人海。
第七天康定——木格错——成都因为睡得很好，我们四个差点睡过约好的时间。当我们还在吃当地有名的牛肉蒸饺时，约好的司机已经在等我们了。
木格错景区位于康定城北雅拉乡境内，距康定城24公里，景区面积500平方公里，由杜鹃峡、七色海、药池沸泉、木格错和红海草原等景点组成。在经过杜鹃谷的时候，我们着实被眼前油画般的画面吸引了，红黄两色以不同的配比调配出数不尽的各种橙色和金色，交织在一起，相互映衬，恰到好处。涓涓溪水，从绚烂的枝叶中流出，静中有动，绝妙之极。这是一种层林尽染的美，一种秋天独有的美，一种收获的美。
这一天游人很少，景区内的一草一木在经历了喧嚣之后渐渐沉静下来。平静的七色海如清晨薄雾中甜美的少妇，宁静而优雅；完全没有了传说之中阳光照射下，七色同时呈现的绚丽和多姿。木格错更是静得能听得见风吹动湖面，水泼荡漾的声音。木格错也称野人海11)，海拔2900米~3800米，长5公里，宽1.5公里，水深70多米，是四川海拔在2000米以上最大的湖泊。木格错的蓝是深邃的蓝，在配上远处岸边黄红相间的落叶松和枫叶林，以及更远处白皑皑的雪山顶，那绝对是一幅你无法拒绝的画面，他有着一种成熟的魅力在吸引着你，牵引着你。抬头也不再是缠绵的朵朵白云，而是如画家用极具个性的笔墨，情绪饱满地抹上去的一般。整个画面，无与伦比，叹为观止。
我们选择了骑马到红海草原，而放弃湖上泛舟观赏两岸风光。说不上有什么遗憾，因为不同的视角，体会的是不同的魅力。说是草原，其实也不过是，山顶上一块相对比较平坦的草地。在这里，一面是连绵的雷达雪山，一面是梦寐以求的蜀山之王——贡嘎雪山。在这里，我们又一次骑马扬鞭，在这里，我们第一次聆听了原味的藏族山歌，热情的藏族马夫用他们纯朴的歌声表达了对远道而来客人的热烈欢迎，也表达了自己对生活的这片土地的热爱。听马夫讲，木格错除了秋天之外，最好看的时间就是5月春末初夏的时节，到时候漫山遍野的是五彩斑斓的杜鹃花和格桑花12)。另外就算是农历7月的跑马节了，那时当地藏族以及各族同胞最盛大的聚会之一了。
在从木格错回康定的途中，我们还有幸参观了四川也是全国唯一的一所藏文学校（中专）；还特地到一家农家买了他们刚从树上摘下来的苹果，并有机会见识了著名的藏獒。璐璐妈还特地给璐璐拍了几张山羊群的照片。总之，那天我们有了较前几天更多接触藏族人民的机会，亲眼看了看他们的生活环境，留给我印象最深的还是他们的笑脸。
回到康定城之后，我们立即赶到汽车站，希望购买次日返回成都的车票。谁知道，因为修路的缘故，本应该今天出发的班车一辆也没有离开康定，全部都在等待交通部门的通知，而且更坏的消息是，第二天将停止发车到成都。于是，我们在简短的商量之后，立即决定买当晚的车票连夜赶回成都——虽然听上去有些冒险，因为夜间行车在加上路况不好，挺危险，但是后来证明当时的决定也算明智，起码给老何和璐璐妈多了一天的休整和享受成都的时间。
Friendly Tips
P 路线：
到稻城亚丁有两条路，从四川成都出发和从云南丽江出发。在此仅提出一条从成都出发的路线，仅供参考。
D1：成都—— 雅安—— 穿越二郎山隧道—— 泸定—— 夜宿康定；
D2：康定—— 雅江—— 过“世界高城”理塘—— 翻越海子山、兔儿山—— 夜宿稻城；
D3：稻城—— 日瓦乡—— 亚丁村—— 垅垅坝——冲古寺——珍珠海，夜宿冲古寺；
D4：冲古寺—— 洛绒牛场—— 牛奶海、五色海—— 夜宿冲古寺或垅垅坝。
D5：亚丁—— 日瓦乡—— 稻城。
D6：稻城—— 康定。
D7：游康定的跑马山、木格错。
D8：返回成都。
— 特别提示：
1. D3晚上可以直接上到洛绒牛场住宿，这样可以为次日看牛奶海和五色海准备充足的时间。但是这一定要量力而行，因为牛场的海拔较冲古寺高，大约在4200米左右，对于高原身体欠佳的朋友，一定要充分估计自己的实力。
2. 如果时间充裕，D7游过木格错之后，可以顺带去附近的塔公草原逛逛，风景不比亚丁差。
3. 如果时间非常充裕，从成都出发走北线，即成都——四姑娘山——小金——丹巴——康定。
ä 吃：
1. 这一路上基本上都是川菜，价格也比较便宜，素菜4-8元/份，荤菜8-15元/份（家常菜），只有在冲古寺和洛绒牛场的饭菜比较贵，米饭要卖到2元/碗。
2. 但是一定要事先准备好一些干粮，以备路上充饥，特别是上牛奶海的时候。压缩饼干、巧克力、快食面、火腿肉肠、咸菜、鱼罐头等都是不错的选择。
3. 另外一定要做好在高原地区吃半生不熟饭菜准备。
4. 特别提醒：进入甘孜州以后，凡是表明牛肉的食物，基本上全部是牦牛肉——野味十足。
ã 住：
1. 总的讲来住宿不贵，一般的双人间（公共卫生间和公共洗漱间）价格为25－35元/人。只有在亚丁垅拢坝的管理处住宿较贵：一般双人间（木头三层房）价格为70元/人，而且洗漱间和卫生间还在木屋对面的河边（还算干净）。
2. 在冲古寺住宿，你还将有机会“享受”一下“天下第一厕”。
3. 在康定，位于车站附近的汽车队招待所条件不错，标间：70元/间，有电热水器全天供热水。而且楼下的餐馆，价格便宜，味道正宗。对面有一家牛肉蒸饺是当地的老字号。
4. 一路上，你基本就不要奢望能够洗澡，要洗多半就是去洗温泉。
v行：
D1：从成都新南门长途汽车站出发，常年有成都直达康定的车票，车型有豪华大巴（金龙或奔驰）和中型客车供选择。在旅游黄金周还有成都直达稻城的客车，行程两天，夜宿康定，2：216元/人，只有中巴车（亚新）。 '：028 85433609。
D2：到康定之后，可以直接在站上买到稻城车票，中巴。
D3：稻城汽车站每天有班车直达亚丁垅垅坝，2：为110元/人，依维克。旅游黄金周，班车比较准时，其他时间很难说。也可以几个人租车，但是路况不好，租车安全保障不足。
D4：到垅拢坝之后，体力不错的话，可以选择步行上山；否则还是建议大家骑马上山。骑马都是统一在管理处租马。费用为：垅垅坝——冲古寺，骑马30元/人；冲古寺—— 珍珠海，可以和马夫谈价， 20元/人。
D5：冲古寺—— 洛绒牛场骑马35元/人。建议跟头一天的马夫商量好，他们很愿意第二天上到冲古寺来接你——这样可以让他们不用再重新排队（亚丁的出租车！）。
D6：在康定城的大街上有很多金杯面包车和奥托车等着你们，一般的价格为150—180元/车天。黄金周管理处是不允许出租车上山的，有班车从康定出发，含门票为50元/人左右。
其他物品（以下清单仅供参考，不必照单抄录）：
防水鞋、水壶、一次性内衣裤（若干）、胶卷（多少都不嫌多）、睡袋（可以自带，也可在稻城“自助旅游中心”租借）、手电（头灯比较理想）、饭盒、小刀等。
Ì 药品：
1) 外伤用：正红花油，创可贴，胶布，酒精棉球，防裂甘油(胜过防裂唇膏)。
2) 喉腔用：草珊瑚含片；西瓜霜含片。
3) 消炎药：螺旋霉素。
4) 胃肠药：吗叮林；氟哌酸；藿香正气水。
5) 感冒药：若干。
6) 高原药：红景天，肌苷片或肌苷口服液配合单参片服用（可在成都和当地买）。
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Postscript
今天我终于可以长舒一口气了，因为自己的慵懒，使得这么长的时间才和大家一起来分享我们这段难忘的香巴拉之行。其实，这一路上发生了很多有趣的故事，我们也探寻了很多当地独特的文化和生活习惯，同样这些所见所闻也给于了我们很多内心从未有过地的感受，上面的文字未能一一尽数。所以，虽然今天，我暂时放下了手中的笔，但是我相信，还会有那么一天，这些难以磨灭的记忆会促使我再次为这段经历写一些什么。
香巴拉的美笔墨难以描述，这是大自然赋予我们的厚礼，我们有责任保护她，关心她。虽然目前的开发和管理还不够完善，稻城亚丁之行需要忍受很多的苦处——舟车劳顿、粗茶淡饭、高山反应，但是只有真正热爱大自然的人才能够真正体味香巴拉的美丽和魅力所在。
Zhang Xin
2003年1月24日凌晨于上海家中
作者：zhangxin118
