Malan said I do not know how many people will think this is a place names. The Chinese names on the map can not be found on behalf of China's only nuclear test site. That is almost the same size a and Jiangsu Province, where, hidden in Xinjiang, accounting for one sixth of the land area of the earth, submerged in the depths of the vast Gobi Desert.
Malan Ji close to the Lop Nur in the west end, and today, the base has been 40 years. At that time, Lop Nur, there are still water, next to a horse full of lavender orchids. I have not verified over 40 years, how many times here on nuclear explosions, stayed in the number of atomic bomb, hydrogen bomb experts, let alone statistics on the number of people who have served and are still here, long years of work. I suddenly feel very fortunate to have the opportunity to Malan, and out of the door was heavily guarded, rather than to pay youth price.
That was in August last year, more cherishes a yearning for the place in Xinjiang, I am very excited. We have Korla and Hejing County under the train, the county how much the car had not opened two days measuring end. In the Swan Lake I finally saw the swan, and then I know that the next to go is the Malan had.
Wrapped up like a car In the vast green carpet of the Bayinbuluke prairie walk through the road is very bad. Blink of an eye the sky filled with clouds, I saw the car outside temperature display as 8 degrees. Trunk where off-road vehicles piled military coat, then our secretary said, this is our out of the bus must be the Steppe zone, regardless of winter and summer. Car driving open grassland there is no, and then the next there Gobi desert road began to smooth up, both sides are increasingly barren. Finally left Hejing County entry and Shuo County, which is where the county Malan. I began to unconsciously ask the Secretary of the problem, on the Malan all, I am constantly worrying that some issues are repeated. The last laugh is not only answered the secretary. Dad said he could, and soon up, for yourself.
Is indeed coming, four to five hundred kilometers down the road to go seven or eight hours. During that time, the driver put his head out the window from time to time, he trapped, but must remain sober. Dad said that you smoke cigarettes bar. Later we saw in the Malan every drivers to smoke, whether or not with a boyish face, regardless of Nayan's face look like and how childlike harmony. And here the driver at a long time will find they are a bit cynical, but who also can not blame them, perhaps tomorrow, they are also out of the bus a few hundred kilometers, the same line, there is no change in scenery. We have seen enough to sleep, they do not, some things can not resolve the.
Has finally arrived. The temperature outside the car finally stopped at 37 degrees. You are really hard to imagine, in through the remote, only the growth of a kind of high drought-tolerant plants called camel thorn in the Gobi Desert, will see an oasis. Malan was inside the lives of seven square kilometers area, windbreak wrapped layer after layer of this living area. Many of these forest types, or the year and Construction Corps, and many years later, their results have been so remarkable in. Only, these and Construction Corps, has withdrawn, the business district are empty.
Malan Ji places living area north and south four gates guarded by something, every one out of the vehicles need to be the headquarters of the prevailing order. Secretary of the sentence so that I'm impressed, he said, you have never seen what the green is so great, Malan is a primitive communism community. Secretary was a young lieutenant, he has been working here for 10 years, Before that, he just said he wanted to return to his hometown in Jiangsu. Living district is home to nearly 20000 staff members and their families, their children, including some retired factory workers. These factories are no longer belongs to Malan, but they still belong to Malan. Malan needs of people living materials led to uxxaktal village next to the economy, so that the township has rows of shops, restaurants and taxis.
We live in Malan's first guest houses, it is the construction of Malan Ji manner, the Soviet man-made, the walls are so thick walls, insulation works well. Malan's 30 is always several degrees in the summer heat, ultraviolet light strongly, but people are still living in the first floor does not require any cooling equipment. Unfortunately, we live on the top floor, the result is like a hot steamer. I entered the room and saw the bed quilt and pillow covers are commonly used in 90 years that the family saw the wash supplies are also commonly used at home, and my heart there is a strange feeling. Malan of water taken from the Tian Shan snow, cold, people can not afford. Malan lower berth were still green on the ground as water pipes, irrigation water with the Tianshan. The first night I slept very realistic, fall asleep asleep felt voice smoke, and the total could not help but drink up. Later I knew before going to bed have to put a bottle of moisturizing cream and a cup of water in the bedside table. I've lost twice in the Malan nosebleed, which is normal. Some people jokingly say that Malan washing clothes can be worn directly. And in August, almost the most humid season in Malan.
The next day I wake up a little bit too early. Malan morning from 7:30 start (and Beijing has a two-hour time difference), first heard the trumpet, the breeze flowing into the room, and then in the yard of someone's words and the bird calls. Out of the hostel, I saw a bright Malan, the kind of fresh, pleasant feeling and is so different from the previous day. Guest houses on both sides of the road with various kinds of fruit trees, and some hanging fruit I could not utter the name. Later, I asked the Secretary, so that species on the roadside, fruit does not already been lighting it? The Secretary said that, yes, these trees give the pick is, you can pick like it. Malan unknown everywhere drove a chrysanthemum, and its pollen so that a lot of people who work in the Malan got allergic rhinitis, all together, hey would burst into tears. Some people like to leave Malan, and some people can not be a good life. Dad's classmates is the case, it is Malan left his mark forever. Today's abundance of food on the table Malan always make the long-awaited great emotion, the old Malan people. Base building had never been seen recently, and my father's classmates to fly to Beijing, the additional task is to come back a little vegetables. Do not know what year they are to eat, anyway Malan now have their own farms, all issues simply up.
Finally we have enough time to thin surveyed here. Malan public facilities readily available, it is fine like a small city in miniature. From the post office to the bowling alley, from the park to the plaza, from kindergarten to high school, from the hospital to a television station, service personnel are military personnel or their families. Listen to Secretary said that the base from the establishment to today, has not had any criminal cases, police station, there is less things. In the Malan Square, I saw the "Heart to Heart" Art Troupe performance of the xintaizi take. The feeling of the square, flagpoles, Chinese tables, auditorium and exhibition hall of the pattern is like most of the Tiananmen Square. The same is true and accurate, the exhibition of the style of the building to follow Beijing's Cultural Palace of Nationalities. This is probably want to keep reminding people here, their work is sacred.
Malan 20 kilometers away from the place, there are plateaus of China's largest freshwater lake - Lake Bosten. Where there is clear blue water and fine sandy beach. Now everywhere on end, such as "Hawaii" and other similar billboards, there are a lot of people come from Urumqi, Korla, or play with people like Malan was most intense in the afternoon, the sun had was to swim here, the kind of relaxed so that you can not remember which Base flew over the six-minute time reconnaissance satellites.
Evening, Malan resume fresh. I harbored little respect I may be feeling to see the most in this life to see the stars. Later, there will be no such feelings, because for each subsequent night, the stars are so much less bright. Evening, Malan club open, it is free of charge. We ask the uncle to watch film of a ping-pong, a small fighter Duanliao Yi came in a basin of water, basins, chatting up the edge of a dry white towel. For a long time I came to understand that what we have to wash their hands, I do not like hand-washing habits, but I washed, water cool, very comfortable.
Malan living area from the 40-minute drive where there is a Red Hill, it is one of the Tianshan Mountains. Throughout the sixties and the Cultural Revolution, Lin Biao in response to cutting-edge research are moving into the high mountains of the decision, Malan Ji to the central figure in here office, such as the way to open a. Now, Hongshan has been abandoned, only some have worked here, people will come back.
To the Hongshan road is not good, on both sides have no vegetation, sporadic long some Hongliu and camel thorn, land appears barren and disorganized. From far off you can see a huge iron shelf, is the movie "turned out to" props, imitating a base for the field where the first atomic bomb explosion, aircraft put the atomic bomb tower. Now that is a marker of Malan, 312 National Road on the shelf, not far from the railway crossing, and finally there are some people who know Malan irrelevant.
Red Mountain is now overgrown with weeds. Base to build a house here then are sent to the local people, their use of re-housing of the distribution, the first floor of sheep, on the second floor are occupied. We walked onto the second floor of sheep manure, can vaguely see that it is still Sanshiyiting house. It was once a central figure in the bedroom base offices and meeting rooms, and now the windows were dismantled under the pile on the ground, looking more like ruins. Dad's classmates is probably the first generation of Malan secretary, he was talking about with the people who are here working around the clock day, a total fantasy to have a bowl of noodles make supper. One night, he saw the soldiers on duty because of boredom, a pen on the wall long and drawn on a regular designated to issue a boring, "Cha Cha" sound, so he go out in the night, and soldiers chatting. At that time, they are young.
Red Mountain is now a lot of the walls of the house still sported the slogan during the Cultural Revolution to write, word that some of the color is still bright glaring. "And the revolutionary heroes fight together, win together." I feel a little funny, but dare not laugh, then laugh behind the bitterness of a generation.
Surprised to see a street with two long-wearing days of lush Yang. Dad's classmates say, you know, this is Malan couple trees. At that time, the base work is confidential. Two married couples receive the work tasks, and who do not know each other also work here, if that was for many years. Do not know that trees are natural or man planted, Malan want them forever.
Base real Malan to leave the work area and living areas and 200 kilometers, and is often referred to sites. It is an area close to China's Zhejiang Province, a large number of nuclear tests are done there. Now, with the phasing out of nuclear tests, there are not many people were present stationed in the area.
The road leading to the field area is Malan's own repair of the asphalt road. 200 km is probably an absolute safe distance, and you can let the 20000 people at ease living in the Malan. The entire field area are the Gobi Desert, there is an office building, a power station, as well as blocks of simple houses, if the nuclear test, here is the command center, many staff will stay here. But now, though during the day, there is still a bit wild too scary. I recall looking at the Malan on the first atomic bomb documentary, Qian, and Zhang Aiping the presence of district branch tents, the wind big screen where all of the things that are flying, dark and somewhat gloomy tone people feel chest tightness.
Even if the formal entry into the field to see the building zone. With the first air-burst atomic bomb ground zero are more than 200 kilometers from here. Because of this ground test has been discontinued for many years, leading to ground zero has been no way, I heard that there are now left with a changed shape of the iron shelves. Engaged in nuclear explosion had never been seen before, the total number of nomads to explosive deformation of iron shelf finished dragging home use, they do not understand what the equivalent of contamination and the like, I do not quite understand, but I know fear.
Zinger post is the farthest away from the Malan a post, it has been deep into the western end of the Lop Nor. To achieve there is a few hours by car. Only later did, no way, and the car directly in the Gobi Desert was opened, I sat in the car feel like the first gray face of the earth. The Secretary said that, once a Soviet expert approach area investigation, and another car got separated, lost. He drove to Singer, when the post there is no communication equipment, a soldier then running a few dozen kilometers to the headquarters messenger and found the people there are anxious to find too. The presence of areas, is not allowed cycling action.
"Singer" in Mongolian, where the "male world" meant. The entire post on a few bungalows, there is an artificial lake and a large vegetable. I saw those soldiers, they smell of mutton sheep with a taste and a stiff smile. The first post here is because a building before the explosion of the patrol, seven soldiers, seven days and nights on foot more than 800 years, water shortages of food, where the discovery of two springs, according to posts on the spring and built. It sounds incredible, can indeed be true, Malan people call it "the first spring in Lop Nur." When we go out there patrolling soldiers, his one and a camel, I heard that it was a mistake that they broke into their adopted post camel. The rest of the fighters entertain us and another call to visit guests. The yard has trees, we sat under the tree with the wooden pier to do a bench to eat their own kinds of gold melon soldiers. This lack of water and soil conditions in the case of poor-grown melons as sweet as honey. Melon continuously from the soldiers out of the room, so small and bright and clean, which they designed to honor individuals who come from outside, it was also taking a finished, and we finally could not bear to be fixed in the mouth.
Now post already has a hand-cranked telephone, as well as a pile of outdated magazines. Malan sent an engineering team, to give post repair new quarters. Life here will soon be different. We are starting the car when the post soldiers stand in a row, neat and in salute, his face stern but calm, my heart was surprised.
To leave the post, our car stopped at a hillside. The Secretary said that, here is the year where an underground explosion. Look around, in addition to a number of rusty barbed wire, did not see any difference. However, a few kilometers underground, there are remnants of the atomic bombings. Due to technical constraints, we still can not remove the safety of those remaining, and perhaps will not be able. Therefore, the ground a piece of legislation a monument, which read: permanently contaminated areas. Stressing shocking.
Back on the road, the car suddenly Jicha, secretary jumped out of cars that are here taking pictures like a bar. I saw them, there is an inconspicuous roadside monument: closed military area. Previously, we can not possibly go one step forward. Now, an era has passed and the status of this base is no longer prominent at that time. There is no test in full swing, nor a large number of passionate young people with imagination and sense of honor coming from all directions. I suddenly thought, when the sacred no longer work here to support, they insist on what means are at?
Malan living quarters out of the east gate, there is Malan's martyrs cemetery. It was the only one outside the gate in the Malan public facilities. Cemetery entrance for many years lived an old man, is responsible for cleaning the road surface, clean up cemetery where the weeds grow. He is the obligation. Cemetery where the tombstones are engraved for each one's name, some names of husband and wife side by side engraved Unfortunately, I do not know. Dad's students in a number of names before the two couples standing a long time, and then bowed. I think they probably know, have worked together, did not want to yin and yang, two are now separated, but also to meet in the Malan.
All Malan, regardless of military or the families of dead can be buried in the martyrs cemetery. Most of them are not really sacrifices, just because they are here to work, and this piece of land with a little bit lonely life. Might have wanted to appreciate their hard, maybe not, but they will never want to live in Malan.
At this point, all activities related to the end of Malan. To leave the martyrs cemetery, we will no longer return. We soon returned to their bustling city. But, this is, I do not generate a lot of practical ideas, such as the work to Malan. At the same time, I also have a lot of very practical idea, at least I know that in Malan, their lives, in addition to warm, more rely on the calm.
Author: wlindsy
