Colorful Phoenix
2 OO years Spring Festival, Chuaizhuo Novel "Border Town" and I went to the four partners, Shen's hometown, a small town called Phoenix. Nearly four days of skimming over the surface, actually let me taste out of Phoenix's gorgeous and colorful.
Red Phoenix gave me the first impression is the hot.
Arrival day is two days, according to Chinese custom, the first month in the first three days of Guo Danian. This is an extremely lively and the grand festival in Shanghai, except for Montreal, the fireworks of red, I do not feel that any New Year atmosphere. While on the road from the Huaihua rushed to the Phoenix, has a dragon dance teams can be seen everywhere in the street the road; Phoenix city, every household hung couplets, North Gate City, downstairs is not seen many years of guessing riddles game. I finally caught up floating in the air of the New Year's taste.
Ru Yuan but fortunate people in the Tuo River Inn set to a room, had just arrived in Phoenix and owner of the first packet aunt on the phone, say the elders to come to meet us. Put down the phone that moment, and my heart filling with warm feeling. There is no agreed joint approach, only said that to meet in Hongqiao. To the Hongqiao, in the first time I saw who I turned to fat old people, to assume that she is the legendary master of kind and hospitable inn. To meet the first sentence, good also peaceable package aunt asked us tired, that moment, I have a very strong sense of coming home, especially when we followed her to the Inn to go, I feel that we have more These five individuals are like distant relatives at home is a package in general, when the Chinese New Year, go home to see.
The best room at the inn has been exhausted to settle the afternoon and decided to stroll to the town. There is no clear destination, just follow the steps Duo Tuojiang blazing in the way framing the way joking. Town is not as Yourenruzhi legend, so, we were able to enjoy at leisure from each household posted on the lintel of the couplets. Ultimately this is a place with rich cultural heritage, from the New Year's couplets and post the contents of the way can be easily seen. Spring Festival couplets are also green with red, green representing the families was passed away, and town residents in their unique way of celebrating a day in memory of the passing away of loved ones, the hubbub behind the deep and steady, so I can not not like this one a small town.
Green did not want to a large number of visitors crowded into the river "boat race", we choose to sit next morning Grandpa's boat tour package Tuojiang.
After all the morning, the river gently flowing. Tuo of the water is not deep, the river, under all aquatic plants, such as extremely passionate woman's long hair, Rourou moving along with the water gently ripples.
"Ooze on the blue Nymphoides, oily in the underwater swagger; in Kang River Roubo years, I will be glad to do one of the plants."
I really like this poem, but it is always not too fond of aquatic plants. It is in such an environment, I finally accepted that the bottom of the green wizard, and accompanied by the poet's sentimental, and accompanied by a pool of Tuojiang dawn.
Our ship sails down, the shore and hard-working woman in clubbing clothes and vegetables. This is true Tuojiang This is real life, beauty is not hypocritical, and lively but not noisy. The boat is limited, then to the buried ashes of the Kikunami Shen Cong-wen mountain. Jianlang package uncle took us up the mountain, all the way for us to introduce. Was very colorful carved in stone like the sentence on the "as I thought, get to know 'people'; as I thought, you can understand the 'I'." Generation of literary master, when the soul has gone into hometown, without too much pomp and Zhang Yang, facing the hometown Tuojiang water, only in a natural stone as a tombstone, perhaps, already implies a master of man with the wording of the gorgeous rustic bar.
Green Phoenix is the Miao and more around the stockade, but every five days will be in different places have miaojia ganchang.
In Phoenix the next day was to flood the temple that day is the biggest mountain Miao Jiang ganchang of day. Swim Tuojiang, we boarded a bus bound for River Hill. Miao customs, this will be excited to noon. It was early, we decided to first go to museums to learn about the Miao Miao history and customs.
Museum, a small dream of, yet we have a great harvest.
The door first two drums into the walls of your eyes, there is a compact, Peugeot's, where the Miao girl practicing the drums, drum and some messy loose, and the shy little girl's look, it would not let people feel bored. Unconsciously, the number of visitors up, then came two miaojia woman, a Hmong guy, full of rhythmic drumming and a time when our wake up, the original show began. Red silk drum stick at the end of the woman's hands whipped in miaojia dance, drum, when an urgent relief, red silk with the drums in the blue shadow where the Miao women's erratic up and down, Yiyun full. Is secretly upset when there is no closer viewing, an old man approached told us that the content of this drum, showing that the Hmong men and women weave the lives of farming scenes. Yao is not upon him to do an Enlightenment from the woman's body lightly dance have a practical significance, pumping, twist, spinning, weaving, happy pastoral life in the drum where apparent. Reading drums, there miaojia girl guides took us to visit the museum in response to our invitation, but also for us to sing folk songs. In her detailed and careful explanations, I have an initial understanding of the Hmong. Visit exhausted, it is the best time is speeding up.
Miao is with more than 500 branches of a big nation, there lived in the Phoenix, mostly blue with blue cloth clothes seedlings, saplings, occasionally mixed with some black seedlings. As a result, there is a fairground scene for the Hmong a blue can imagine. Think that it should be a very grand scene, Miao Miao people of all ages dressed in suits, with a variety of silver, cheer up, you can take singing in antiphonal style, under the blue sky and white clouds; Or, have a happy worry-free miaojia Fellow , in the dark to send Miao girl Winks Lane, with that girl in the crowd in pairs chasing play; There is also a booth behind the head boundless, there are honest and straightforward, where the Hmong people have a strong ethnic flavor to sell clothes, accessories .
Unfortunately, everything is just imagination, Shan Jiang ganchang of tasteless, much beyond my endurance. Is filled with people, occasionally wear blue where the Hmong clothing stall, but only sold some household goods and fruits, but also crowds and chaos, and even find a place to eat like the same as on the battlefield. About ganchang beautiful imagination, was crowded with the Da-turn driving without a trace.
White Phoenix of that in the few days to several Miao Village, most can not forget that Allah the stockade, and then families.
The day before the mountain river ganchang slightly killjoys, insidious way, actually right Miao Village has also given birth to a tired feeling. That day we were originally yellow silk in order to see the bridge, but the decline of this ancient barracks, such as the nobility, but has some down and out with the pathos, you can ward off foreign invaders of the wall was finally unable to compete with foreign civilization, commercial invasion of the ancient city gradually under the will fall short of its original charm. To listen to others that there is next to bridges, landscape fairly well, look at the time still early, we decided to go walk around.
It was very strange Tower Bridge, the bridge there is a central canal, is said to be used for irrigation, still used today. This bridge has been there for years, many parts of the railings were falling. Standing on the bridge a little relaxing and pleasant to look at the scenery a little bit scared, all of a sudden glimpse under the bridge there is a stockade, there are many women there Huanxi clothing. Immediately decided to go on to see this go, they went into that family lives.
That house mistress was a more than 50-year-old woman, see our tour group were carrying a camera, tripod, then Kung urged us to look at her house. And she also know that there are too many Hmong people coated with a commercial flavor, frequently resorted to "give money" to coerce those who travel, and she hastily looked, the original just want to invite us to look at her family's legacy of Qing Dynasty old house only , there is no other motive. The Hmong woman helpless Mandarin accent too, peer partners in a time not understood what she meant, until the time everything is clear, the two next relieved, we are naturally followed her to visit the homes of ordinary people scattered relics monuments.
Entry to see at a glance this is a book to know people over ceremony, the ancestors rhetorical exercise legacy is still everywhere. Others, like the living room at home, but also respectfully close to the image of Chairman Mao, and then there are some painting exercises, in my layman's eyes, as if it is a very beautiful masterpiece. The door sat a teenage girl holding a child, a granddaughter of the hostess inquired, and her uncle's children. Little girl see us, do not shy, as we introduce all the family, neither haughty nor humble, graceful. She told us that the wall paintings are from the hands of his uncle, his uncle was the city's art teacher, her family can be considered scholarly door brother, and ancestors are all knowledge. Between emotion and speech, is no doubt that pride and reverence. She is currently at the Phoenix high school on the city, faced with heavy farm work, the only idea is that the girl was admitted to Normal, you can no longer be subject to land constraints. Good honest and nice girl, a good one enlightened and accessible family, I secretly wish this girl the road smooth.
Just when the girl chat with our mouth, the hostess has fruit with seeds on the side entertain us. This is not a rich people, the only valuable points at home thing, nothing but a TV set only. For us a few big cities to the tour who do all the masters of hospitality to welcome us, apples, pears, oranges, normally accustomed to seeing the inside of the fruit, now hold in their hands already had Dean Dean's weight. Obviously, for our arrival, the hostess very happy to get together after the busy busy with the former, but also for our client to the Baba, a local food, the taste was very good. See our eat happy, but also left us to eat. For us, this is just some food and spent not a few money, but to them, perhaps not a small amount of overhead. So, I absolutely do not want to eat lunch in their homes. Of course you can give money, but that this would be bad gas, which, but it is my greatest wish to see. I like to have such an enjoyable feeling. Sometimes, money is useful, you can buy to enjoy, but it definitely can not buy friendship.
So, I would rather Retention of a pure white with no contaminated memory, these households will grid in the heart of this stockade.
Huang Phoenix left me a very deep impression that the city There was a thick smoke gas. Whether at home lit charcoal brazier Kaohuo of the people, or along the street near the river in any one hotel room is always Yinyun the flue gas, unhurried manner with the breath deep into the human heart-lung and memories go.
Returned from the Miao, the time still early, and for Phoenix, have no more strangeness. As a result, still choose stroll.
At this time of the ancient town, visitors apparently more than we arrived in time a lot. Then transferred to a quiet alley, he saw a people's door was ajar, probe a look, even though the house lights dim and the Pushuo, but also look for to go into. Gone through the dark passage, is one of the halls, faint light came slanting to thorn, but still can not see any real in the furniture, the sound vaguely have something to pass over, there are people next door to play TV sound. Be provided in such a secluded and unfamiliar environment, I actually still find a familiar feeling, this feeling stems from share of pyrotechnic gas. Between trance, there was a another clip in my mind quick flashback. Yellowing of the memory, has been so carefully treasure. A suffocating feeling, and quietly withdraw.
Blue on the fourth day of the Phoenix, which I will leave the Phoenix days. I only have a half-day time can be used close to the town. Just before parting, my heart became heavy nostalgia for the Phoenix up.
On this day, the sun is surprisingly good, the sky is so blue. Up and went out early in the morning took photographs of some of the Phoenix, though, because Tuo River in the construction on the sewage works, I can not find the feeling of the Phoenix, but the heart of this small border town, or have inexplicable liking, especially in the sun later.
9:30 after the sun has risen very high, it just gave me an excuse to call it a day. Phoenix is a small county seat, despite my footsteps all over the town all the streets and alleys, but I still feel boundless. Put away the camera, I began the last walk in the town. Phoenix did not specifically Chutiao landscape, but it is so went to a lot of town myself, I can not give up this border town on the bottom of my heart to like it.
Loop after lap and found that the more a mess of visiting the heart. Decided to go back. People in the balcony of Tuojiang sun, will have a different kind of taste.
As the time is approaching noon, we ate unanimously decided to come back to enjoy the sun. The last time, we Diaojiaolou's restaurant for dinner. Through the window, you can see on the Tuo River cruise ship full of guests, where they vie with each other down the river, the other side of the stone on the road, there are naughty children, a gold to throw firecrackers and the intermittent sound of firecrackers reminded me the end of festival coming.
When finally the Phoenix location of the best that the city seated on the balcony when the departure time from us only more than an hour, and laughing and joking in a collective photo shoot. So after a period of time, I silently looked dazzling river, thinking there is a fault, what do not want to be able to come good and be able to live simply nice.
Took me back to reality, is the distance of the camera at us. Finally, we have become someone else in the eyes of the landscape, as in langmusi the same. With langmusi, Phoenix, I was finally the charm of artificially discounted. Even so, recalled the past few days in Phoenix in bit by bit, still feel that Phoenix is a very small town flavor, too little time, if it can continue to stay, I have to choose staying at home, they hid on the balcony, facing the blue sky, white clouds made the day of the stay. Think of all that is a luxury well-being.
Orange Phoenix this trip, there are many places worth a good unforgettable. For example Kaneie old couple gave me the feeling that the kind of friendly and warm. Because of their man's goodness and gentle, making its operations Inn Tuojiang people's aspiration to become a public ass place. Whether or not living in the Tuo's home every night, there is always a lot of sitting around a small table Kaohuo donkey on the orange-red light chat.
I like to travel during the feeling of chatting with strangers, this time, but paradoxically remain silent. May be Tuojiang people to give me the feeling of home, rather than as the protagonist of chatting, I would prefer to nest in one corner, doing my own thing.
As a result, the end of the day wandering the evening will be straight back to Inn. Eat dinner at the inn, I am looking around and not a social meal, and finally eat at the inn, and even the local homemade side dishes of rice Zuo, feeling that her mother did at home, eating the same meal. After dinner, which also do not want to go on the family's living room in the package for heating and reading. In the living room is still a surprisingly lively, polyethylene with a lot of admiring the donkeys were not allowed to stay there, everyone sitting around the table, chatting, joking. I was doing nothing and not saying anything, but holding that the "Border Town", find a corner, a person did not take a ride in a turned over. Gradually, the donkeys are dispersed one by one, the whole living room, with only one sitting at the table Kaohuo Zhang's two partners, pack the family greeted me and they sat together Kaohuo, I have in the past Xinxin Ran Cou , but did not participate in their chat, but continue to look at my novel. Ear package chatting with family and partners have been listening to the voices of some trivial, and feet the heat of the charcoal brazier to every cell of my body from the tension to get comfortable and then lazy. I felt his eyelids began to become to heavy, Tracy has slowly left me. At that moment, only to awake in an idea that is best not to go back to a familiar city, it has been so pleasant to live. Such a place, this day is not suitable hurry, most are suitable for thin play with.
It turned out to live in Phoenix, every one twilight, destined both tranquil and secure.
It turned out to live in Phoenix, each color is vivid and bright and are destined for.
Author: a_lin
