Hunan trip was triggered by the Phoenix, that is, Shen instruments mentioned many times in border town. Man when the warlord, the Miao Han沱江mixed town. Imagination was full of green slate Uzbekistan Street, the Hmong crepe wrapped around his head holding a gun robbers soil. Such as these factors have contributed to the 9-day trip.
The first day.
9:30 morning train. Hard Sleeper upper berth. RMB287. Travel 23 hours. Inspired by the sun from a pedestrian in high spirits Passenger Station on the train. The train time is spent at the touch of boring, but everyone is filling with joy and ease. Chat, play cards, eating, watching from the text's "Bordertown." With infinite hazy vision looked everywhere crossing the small station.
The next day.
8:16 Arrives in Huaihua. The first thing out of station is to buy a return journey ticket, do not want to sell locally only within 3 days tickets. And we intend to six days after the return journey, had to give up the idea. To listen to God's bar.
Transportation of western Hunan Huaihua is to stand, although the morning, urban construction, such as in cities of all development, immersed in a noisy gray in it. Fortunately, the sun is still that of non-Si Wu fog rising in the air. We embarked on a public light bus to Phoenix. Car cruise in the mountains 3 hours later arrived in Phoenix county punctuality. Is the county seat, in fact, with few vehicles traveling the road. Half an hour, can be everywhere on the downtown area.
Phoenix is the capital of Hunan original location, once the politicians, warlords, toast, business travel, Hmong, bandits gathering place. In a culture as the core of the Central Plains of Chinese history, regarded as the standard barbarians land. In this within a few kilometers of mountain, modern scholars has produced Shen Cong-wen, painter Huang Yongyu, politicians Xiong Xiling and so on. According to locals, said Zhu had also been in the Phoenix seek a school. Somewhat large in spirit means. Now Phoenix is a mixed state of the Han Miao, and is the starting point for tourism development, in addition to age-old architecture, green Tuo, it has more and more the smell of the tourism economy.
Have you ever seen covered with dark green, green grass of the river do? Tuojiang is. When our wooden line that jade-like water when you see waves of all is her enchanting figure, her body with the water Qi-long swing with a slow and charming, her style of lush foliage million species of writhing, haunted. But she has always been implicit remain in the underwater depths, did not affect the paddle boats. Ships such as the line was full of grass-patterned jasper generally. Tuojiang the edge of the streets are covered with wrinkles of history is but for a new wine in old bottles, which are mostly sold to tourists to see the handicrafts of the. There are many ancestral halls, stage, temples, had been reduced into a Taomi chicken houses. Celebrity's home has become an empty shell, but more a place to pay their last respects history, but will be charged.
On the third day.
Phoenix was originally a martial town, Han Chinese in order to consolidate power, within a radius of several kilometers Xiuqi numerous castles for military barracks. 黄丝桥古城is one of them is quite well-known preserves a more complete one. To its name-like elegance and quiet. Side walls several hundred meters enclosed mini-village, about 20 to households Along the peacefulness, smoke curl. We walk around in a circle on the wall only spent around 20 minutes. In that one quiet sunny afternoon, we sat on the ancient walls and watch for a while within the walls of the farmers are drying, fuel wood, fetching water, walking, chat, enjoy a moment outside the terrace walls, green hills and the occasional cattle drive passing people. I do not know what other things can people be more comfortable, and I almost forgot the existence of time.
Walled stone is not far away from the黄丝桥古城a Miao village, mostly due to the stone-brick houses named. Is also a quiet small village from time to time to meet with Tony serving the elderly and the river laundry women. We originally intended to find out Qiyuxuanang manner, and did not want the language barrier, no one Dali. This and the strike, is fatal is every household has a loyal dog, or loyalty cattle care, I have great admiration for those loyal to the realm of animals to the owner, but that realm of foreign invaders for those of us who almost became a disaster. Fled in panic in a number of experiences, we had to visit secluded from the exploration of ancient mood in the wake of the petty bourgeoisie, faced with a realistic set out to find a driver to guide us. This will not only solve the security problems, there has been translated to help us communicate, but also have a lot of wonderful memories behind.
In the wizard's help, we visited a residence. It is probably also on the Hmong couple early thirties it, already has three daughters. Their home is bright yellow under the sun warm the composition of the land like yellow, grain-like yellow, pale pink yellow, brown, yellow partial deeply shallow and do dyed in the mottled walls, the front of the weeds, courtyards scattered tools do not see the era of inter-and has a wooden Qiang Li. When the hostess docile oxen pull-apart, Wang Dan, the cow's Camel yellow in the sun bursting out with sparkling light, a scene that is really no way out!
Compared with man of the house of silence, the hostess looked warm, somewhat shy curiosity. She brings out some cooked sweet potato, and she moved out of bamboo chair pull-out cattle, poultry and were cheerful in the yard ran, and she rubbed his palms on one side and a warm smile, she do everything possible to satisfy our curiosity. She even brought seedlings clean starched clothes, for our long-Shu Zhang's head wraps yarn. And we are happy crazy.
I do not know the ground can see some quite magnificent age-old building, is said to be the original MILLER and WONG lived in the house, this is not a pig sty is the rodeo. Drivers be Hmong, but with almost the same as wearing clothes, but also wearing glasses. But he seems not to mention those mottled history, only to meet with some adventures, the story of psychology to perform his enthusiasm, I can not help but start to worry about the return of the prices.
As the stone Walled stay too long, until we arrived Qiliang Dong nearly 3:00 pm. Qiliang Dong was originally a bandit base is also a Phoenix territory. Left onto the long winding roads can be tens of meters high to see a huge hole, a meandering stream penetration of acoustic exquisite prevalent. Footpath in parallel with the river into the hole, see the hall of about 100 square meters. All the way up the stairs, that is, the stone inside the cave, ever-changing sky of the top. Qiliang Dong's name is due to forced to the top of the cave there is a white stone pillars, it seems odd hole of the beam. However, to look into the Qi-Fang Rong, we have enough to go inside the cave, there is an hour! Shows its great. Hanlujietong water inside the cave is, the Han Lu visible size of the stalactites, narrow winding path, and strange-shaped Guaizhuang the stone chamber, where not a few. Absolutely the waterway, said to have more than 4000 meters long, one end leading to waterfalls. In the absence of fully developed, we are only out of its hole when the boat one-way trip. That is what kind of wonderland ah. I'm afraid I can not try to describe it. There is no natural light, no wind, no silhouetted against the sky, river, lost her original color and texture, she is just a liquid, has a mirror-like smooth surface, walk through the hole in the rocks Ling Xun, or rather rocks tunnel. Faithfully reflecting surface of the water stone roof and the rock face, the water image together with the kind of water, people are almost impossible to tell where the reflection of Where is the stone. Rock and lighting each other Hui, river and the caves each mapping, Yizhenyihuan. You can almost see the water ripples, in addition to that slight little boatman rowing without a sound, you hear any sound. We were deeply shocked in front of stunning. Our ship on the so silently walking with. As if walking in the secretive vacuum, as if walking in a dream.
Out of its hole when the sky was black, hailed in the side of the road leading to the capital of Hunan --- jishou.
The fourth day.
To Jishou primarily to transfer, because it is the capital, so there went all over the bus, as well as the railway station. We're going to Deben, take a look at the mountains of the Miao Village. Chartered from the train station, all the way enjoying Qingshanxiushui, climb 18 curved road, half an hour's drive you can arrive.
We Deben guide is a 13-year-old little girl. The first time I saw her, she was standing on a selling crafts Tan Qian.
I asked: "Here our guide, someone can do it?"
She was shy and a bit unexpected, but smiled: "Yes."
"They are the people?"
She smiled the same, but it seems do not know how to answer. I realized I asked a silly question, such a small stockade, of course, anyone can do a wizard. I was thinking what to add, when she suddenly felt embarrassed, whispered, said:
"You think I can do?"
I laughed, "Of course you can."
She told Li Shi, is the big sister at home, here there are three sisters, probably because home is not good, they have already dropped out of school. I am not sure, because she is so reticent, I dared not ask why so many, I am afraid to rely on to secure the identity of inadvertent harm her. She was only a girl who grew up being developed, so that the age in the city, it should be still in their parents arms fractious. However, Li Shi's demeanor has clearly beyond the scope of her age. Her composure and calm me shocked. She also has bright time, it was mentioned earlier in the school of life, she laughed, and, like us, very happy. She really just a guide only, with no destination, she Apart from walking, without a word. We chat from time to time and she 12. To the King, we excited at the side of the camera, while she sat in silence while watching, and so we greeted her move on. In fact, this very good, we do not need the commentary of those guides. Once I tease her: "how can you not say to this mountain, stone ah ah tell us the story?" She said with a smile, "Those are deceptive." We were moved for her real.
In the Deben is able to feel more natural rustic charm, and because so far, it is only natural Miao Village, there is no trace of the development. Inside the mountain, free-range cattle and sheep can be seen everywhere, from school children playing. There are local people caught in the river's fish fry to sell us tourists, there were strings of the centipede, or other unknown what eating fried insects. I tasted her first taste of a centipede. In fact, nothing special, crunchy, very fragrant.
Deben multi-streams of the mountains, but also many waterfalls, what quicksand啦, Follie啦. What impressed me most is the quicksand waterfall, waterfall is really into their name, you can imagine the falls from the cliff like sand scattered in general do? Meeting of the quicksand of all fell to the valley, forming a Tan green green water, with water running along a number of gaps into a lively stream of clear, nourishing the mountains of the creatures. Utopia much better than this bar.
When we went to was not the rainy season, water scarcity, and rocks at hand. We are not like the trip, such as flat as those Montagnards are often in the former Czech Li Shi-step like flying for a while, and then look at our quietly in place after the pre-pull-pull of the follow. Is even more sad is that one day down, almost everyone has a throw away in the stream or ditch years experience.
We are completely black in the days before the fiducial point to return stockade, the Li Shi for our Zhaoliaoyichu place to live, is a newly built two-story buildings, is probably the stockade where the best income of a household. Before she left, only taken us 20 yuan a day's labor costs. So far I have for some, but guilt was not generous.
The fifth day.
Conch is also Deben peak range, beautiful, but not directly to the car, we should charge more twists and turns. A few days ago has been hailed on the road, and bargaining experience, we intend to own found, an excuse to go on foot.
We had the half-hour walk to the foot of the mountain Aizhai, think about how to take the truck (a considerable portion of the local truck is used to install someone else's) to a local village called Pai brother, and then ask the way to the past, finally walking numerous mountain ridge trail, the view suddenly see the light. See Yi Si conch Shi Feng, almost surrounded by vacant, only a narrow winding path connected to the surrounding mountains. Shi Feng stood on a jade belt like a waterfall can be seen from the opposite mountain on the elegant Chuiluo. There are no Huangshan gorgeous, Zhangjiajie show off. She is beautiful Xiaojiabiyu style, let me think of Jiangnan Water Village ---- small and exquisite, without losing style.
Thoroughly enjoyed themselves to play into the afternoon, and then the village elder brother from the row (which we also found that if the Deben from here, then do not need that 10 yuan tickets) ride back Jishou. Arrived at 3:30 pm has passed, just missed the flight to mengdong he trains, so hard to find means of transport. Because we do not want to spend the night in the Jishou. But almost all of the drivers say that we have to leave the road in the renovation of the three-hour bumpy too painful, no one wants to go. I have almost desperate. Finally, there is a driver willing to help look for cars, the price is that we give him 6 yuan "fares." I am certainly happy.
When we finally get on that car when I broke the Ministry considered savor those drivers, "difficulties." From the Jishou to Wangcun, a full three hours, almost no one is a flat surface. We all like a sieve on the Bran, was screening three hours. "Sieve" is a worn surface, including the driver of a total of three rows, sitting nine individuals, but also a woman conductor, is probably the driver's wife, the first two hours had been standing to maintain a bent over 60 degrees A dedicated loading position. Although I was Britain's hard to be, but also could not move, but at least I was sitting. In a way, the woman comrades are the spiritual pillar for all of us.
Wangcun is just an unknown hill town, but the Hibiscus Town you must have heard of it, that is, the film Wangcun the prototype. There, everywhere, "Liu Xiaoqing rice, tofu" or similar signs. As we arrived, had already Heidengxiahuo, and only find someone to talk to children living. See a "dream Chuang Ming Fung," were quite good children, to two sets of standard rooms, girls live on "classics gums Deluxe Room." 2:00 a disaster from the start. My companion almost simultaneously by "classical gums," the top of Xi Xi So-So-sound awakened, rats! When this word from your mind, I have completely sober up from the sleepy. My God! We bite the bullet in the "classical gums," lying on the half hour, until a clear feel the burst of rapid split step skim bedding, scream! We had had enough! Turn on the lights, open television, and even loudly snapped Nazhi nasty gray rat. He was strategizing to Shangcuanxiatiao, without fear behavior among some in the air-conditioning machines, acrobats like to go to those difficult to wire, athletes like curtains from the bed top-shelf bungee jumping exercises. Now think about it, that night is simply Absurd Plays. He is a hero in bed two girls are spectators, with horror expression. Absurd Plays around 6:00 in the morning suddenly suspended because of an actor in a bungee jumping accident in a fall practice, he is quite self-esteem to go hide in a corner of the healing of. Spectators finally take a nap for a while.
The sixth day.
To spend more than an hour to eat breakfast with a stroll and a bit of Furong Liu Xiaoqing, or car buying tickets to go mengdong he drifted. Bending of the mountain is 18. More than half an hour's drive. We floated half, but also more than two hours. No visitors, little water, no real rapids. Rather, we are more than two hours to enjoy the beauty of the canyon, boatman, "good intentions" zone at us waterfall, and finally also like La Tangji as Linde.
Again Zuoju Hui Wangcun is already sunset. Bought in pairs of shoes on the Hibiscus Town (our shoes are soaked), sitting on stone steps beside the upper boat pier. Only 50 meters long pier to embark on dozens of lattice ladder that is Furong stone inside the narrow street. Because it is evening, and had no visitors, only some of the local old people like us, sit there watching the sunset. Our bodies have been tired, the spirit is still excited. We are sniffing the damp warm air, everyone's faces was rippling with a smile.
In the dark before, and finally have a boatman in to our bargaining --- --- 8 yuan per person to carry us to the train station. We are, in his extraordinary roar barge stayed for half an hour, cold wind, but also the way to visit the boatman's cabin lying: about 4 square meters of space, the bed accounted for one half, the only two planks on the wall the one hand, a warm winter clothes hung, side hung up the unparalleled beauty Shuo large map, the kind of little dress. We smile to. Squatted in the cold watching the boatman, I feel a little sad.
To mengdong he train station, the sky is already dark in. Our train to 23:50, so to find a restaurant for dinner, chatting, and waiting. Have you had a cold autumn night in a train, etc. Wretch experience? 34 row of wooden chair, dim the chandelier, unfamiliar faces. Less than 10 people waiting room looked empty and boring, we have been abandoned as a group of people, and so on the edge in this world.
Our next stop is Zhangjiajie.
The seventh day.
Sleep until ten in the morning, first went to the railway station and bought tickets back to Shanghai the next day, Zaiqu tour to talk about the price. Because Zhangjiajie Deben like better than a small place, if you are looking for travel agents, spending big does not say is almost no direction, because it is too great, the distance between the spots and the spots are very far. And in our travel plans, Zhangjiajie had a bit tasteless, went to the bar is to be afraid of its disappointment over the economic-oriented and not go it seems a bit unfortunate. So we had only arranged two days less than the time to bargain with the travel agent when evil hack, and eventually one or two hundred Gaoding.
If you are a mountain-loving person, Zhangjiajie is a good place to start. At the time, we are a spent force, each guide are encouraged to complete the task a lot of tour. And as we go into the mountains are too shuffling going on, until the down, the sky is nearly black, and we only halfway down the mountain. Mountains and there was no lighting tools. We are a pedestrian is simply Pusher, Huangbuzelu. I almost groaned stumbled all the way down to find any of the escape. Stand firm and then look back, mountains has been a shadow of chaos.
Live in scenic hotel, fell down asleep.
The eighth day.
Xu was the day before over the limit, the spirit of the day Daohao up. Huangshizhai also climb is not particularly tired. First heard in the mountains of the Shanghai dialect, and we laughed and said, away from home far away.
At noon return to Zhangjiajie City, bought some feeding, sitting quietly waiting for the railway station square to go home.
3:30 Huaihua boarded the train to Wuxi, and sleeping.
The ninth day.
睡觉.
Around 5:00 arrive in Shanghai West Railway Station.
Home.
The United States and the United States to eat a meal.
睡觉.
Postscript
For the first time to write such a long travels, very tired. Because there are too many feelings can not be recorded. Landing on the written so long, a bit like a running account, forgive me. But I think if you are like me, filled with curiosity and enthusiasm for life people, these words can be at least a sense of the wizard. Of course, the premise is that you should be willing to experience the more simple things. Our trip this time, each spent a total of around 1,300 yuan. The approximate route of travel is to take the set before the concrete reality of the road, as the case may be. So every to a new place, there will be many options, you must select one of the most suited to their own line, as is a live and experience life game. Very interesting.
In addition, there did not write a lot of Zhangjiajie, first, because originally it was not the focus of our trip, and second, because there are too many web-based information can be queries, so I will not here go into details.
Author: snaky1
