More than ten kilometers west of Shaoxing, there's the Millennium Town Chang, stone paved streets three years, shops everywhere, rain Gallery connected, walk with groups of "hat", flying a community theater tunes, Zuozuo various shapes The stone bridge with the next shuttle Wu Pengchuan, that water is deep green microwave out of fashion, as if aging of the wine, rippling the back, filled with nostalgia ... ...
Village Opera New Year 3 in the afternoon, the sky shade, and Ahn Chang-empty bus station, leading to the streets of the roads are newly built, and far fewer tourists, noisy. We passed several tall arch bridge there is little Hongmei, Stir buds had burst on the scene, A gentle breeze blows, rains had hinted at the alcohol, through a Wu Pengchuan on board the "hat" it lowers blush, hand, foot and used to swing the sail too fast. We followed a Tiaodan the "hat" behind the bridge to see the next stage and the Cheng Huang Temple, Chang Koudao the town.
Come is more clever than earlier, a social drama is about to begin since childhood read Lu Xun's article on this country entertainment is the infinite vision, and in front of a description of all too similar, Culture, and the same stage, the same Tell me, I suspected to be returned to the past life, or exposure to the film scene.
Cheng Huang Temple Square in front of a growing number of spectators gathered like Lex's sitting in front of the temple under the eaves, sheltered, vertigo hearing loss is a super fans of the constant to put the chairs under the stage moved the stage of the musicians have been Start tuning playing board, then the babble of the shouting voice actor. Taking advantage of yet to begin a play, Lao Xiongdi old sister nibbling each other with cigarette lighter seeds, small dolls were shuttling the gap in the crowd chasing slapstick, full of sugar-coated haws, cotton candy, windmill, incense's cries, Cheng Huang smoke-filled temple, incense strong ... ...
In the midst of pressing the sound of erhu playing the opening drama, and the audience quiet, and look forward echoing the slogan of today's opera called "Shuang-knot", talking about the scholar-beauty story, woven into a lot of comedy, perhaps Chinese New Year celebration is a required element bar! 哈哈audience laughter heard from time to time, itching to those vendors do not do business, and the burden pick to go home, and then give the stool came to do the audience, children climb the stands side is perhaps the actors colorful The style of dress and musical instruments issued by the sound interested.
I broke into the background, the actors are working make-up, there are several men helped them to change costumes, to see me holding a camera, the beginning, some shy, but soon relaxed, and fighting over who gets to chat with me, and even forget that he should be into play. This is a grass Taiwan Shaoxing Tuk class team, composed of several people from the 20, more than a dozen actors, 45 musicians, 45 back, most of them came from Ningbo, Shaoxing, Zhuji and other surrounding areas. Shaoxing Benedict classes because the accompaniment of musical instruments in addition huqin There is also a board similar to the allegro of the tick is named Benedict, rugged song lyrics singing secular, Shaoxing dialect almost exactly the same, when I heard some arias like chickens and ducks a fight. Must not underestimate the local culture, Benedict classes is the predecessor of Shaoxing opera. Shaoxing opera 10 sisters are like this year the grass Taiwan team came from, in order to enter city, Yuan Xuefen reformed Shaoxing Tuk classes, further softening of this local opera, Shaoxing opera came into being refined. But the theory is still genuine Shaoxing Benedict classes, her marketing throughout the region in the country Ningshao that land transfer because the soil cavity close to civilian life reveals a vibrant vitality, the team wanted to sing ten months a year in various towns walk, such as this is the town paid for their Chang hired a total of four performances a day, two, a 2,000 yuan, sing for three hours.
Although singing is hard work, income is not too high, very dedicated actor, the weather was cold, thin clothes so that they play when the kids can play, but one is still full of energy, it all stems from the audience, some of the old man old woman can Yueai to unreasoning passion, each a must, a focused look like should not be any bother.
I quietly left the stage, away from the fans, down the street he walked into the streets, more and more and more ears accent, those sound of reading aloud to say how laughter and singing of a tune? I could not tell who are in their own drama, or Xiwai, trance blurred lost souls.
Street at the foot of routing thousands of pieces of quartzite heavy winds ahead paved with being depresses each stone will have a slightly loose Deng sound, as if telling me a long story, along the roadside on end 1000 100 wooden pillars of support scattered rain from a gallery for display of selling cakes, pulled sugar Gujiu tea stalls and tables and chairs, along the street in full bloom in the city street is almost extinct workshops and colored hand shops, blacksmith, fortune-telling, spring flowers, groceries items well, briquettes, cooper, etc., there are some closing of the shop is one block on the door locks to fight and those familiar childhood memories at the moment again in my mind's eye. Year of the twelfth lunar month is the season here on the shop front of the pillars covered with salted chicken, salted fish, strings of sausages, old wooden doors on the other side close to the red couplets, deeply secluded lane at the end of the courtyard hung with festive of red lanterns. Firecrackers suddenly sounded, and adults and children were all smoke and movement as we are not excited by them, recovered the child completely happy New Year. Sky dimming, an "old hat" referred to the pot from the hotel down the street, his Wu Pengchuan towards the other side not far from the old building, a hanging lantern crossed out of the sky echoed with Zhiya grinder Sound and splashed the water sound, sounded a hypnotic Jiangnan Serenade ... ...
Allusions to eat dinner at the Panda Restaurant, asked for a pound of old wine, enjoying the smell dried tofu, and beans flavored with aniseed, compiled the town of Wu Chi Chuan-yao for the elderly to tell us about the countless memories from Lao Cai town and marshes.
Chang Old Town of existing four name: Gu, Lou, Xu, Fang, 1000 more than 3,000 households.
Chang, Changle Village, formerly known as 1100 years ago DONG Chang-Qian Miao Ping Rebellion was the achievement of local peace, so as to change the Changle Chang. Chang said that up there four thousand years of history, when the Tu Yu Zhendong, a wife will be in the princes, into a marriage on the fourth day, Dayu flood control to leave his new wife to lead his men went, followed by three past his home without , Tu Yu's looking forward to go home "on people Xi Yi" make love the history of Chinese literature, Chang became the birthplace of one of the poems. To commemorate the Dayu, the people built a temple in the Tu-shan, incense thriving, even though the year has come to worship the emperor Yu Gar-off.
Chang painted outside the town east of Shanxi have Baimashan is a feng shui treasure land, when the Ming Dynasty founder Liu Bowen soldier passing Chang, Tu found that as the side pennant, confrontation between the White Horse as the side drum, resourceful he thought matched the land must have emperors gas, so anxious played the emperor. To maintain its Daming Jiang Shan, Zhu Yu Tu Emperor ordered the demolition of the temple, leveling the Peak, while Baimashan dug a long ditch, breaking a King Air.
Chang was originally a sea shore, our ancestors in order to solar salt fish for a living, until the Ming Dynasty Hongzhi two years (1489) Dounan Wenling Cheng, Chang opened in order to attract people to city of Chang, his reward, since the city who sesame seed 4 to return, Chang thriving commercial city, therefore increasing. He also construct water conservancy, land reclamation, dredging rivers planted with cotton and rice, the introduction of textile technology, the formation of Chang Hua (cotton), cloth, rice-based commercial trading center, developed to the early Republican era there has become a four famous Shaoxing One of the town, "Silver Chang" reputation that is famous for textiles here.
Nikko plus shipping market developed gradually in accordance with the Pai Mun River-type shops and patchwork of rain paved gallery and the quartzite of the changjie 1747 meters, street stuff River flows south, shop on the street to the north to live The houses, it is "Street South, Kitai," saying the two sides by the arch, beam, Pavilion various shapes 17 Stonebridge connection.
In the most prosperous on the eve of the war three years no fewer than 900 gathered in Long Street firms, their predecessors have "Chang is a big place, 7 oil tanker, 8 When the" words of praise can really be said merchants gathered. Thus the rise of a number of big firms such as: oil truck with Shun (1864), Renchang sauce works (1892), Yoshio Cloth Factory (1915) and so on. Not only store more business value also high, multi-pawnshops and money shops. Closed cocoon season, pick a day from Chang banking house of silver have 3-6 Tam.
Tea with the Wu Pengchuan dawn and the old town with the wake up, wash finished, Morrowind where we are full of energy to walk in the street, passing a blessing to live in peace tea, evidently very old, filled with smiling old man noisy, the tables strands on a hot mist rose, and it is so quiet, so crossed the high threshold, find an empty bench to sit down, the boss immediately Pengshang a cup of tea, containing a tea I stroked the same table, such as rotten wood texture, coming and going outside to see a "hat", swallowing the tea, lips and teeth Liuxiang for a long time ... ...
Shop house has 300 years, the table took 80 years, and folks said it was opening teahouse run by a collective 20 years. Old man who drank black tea, are relatively poor, 1 yuan, and we drank green tea, 2 yuan. Tea has also shifted the self-service, the stove filled with hot water bottle on, drink their own bubble, casual long. There are also some old man sitting relative to the middle of an ugly, one leg flat on the bench, body leaning against the wall, only a comfortable figure. Listen to them talk about more social play, or how the market yesterday was good-looking, a little later to try to steal a good position early. I have found that shop also concurrently oil, rice and hotel business, rely on an old man who a person is not closing the business of money to close? We want two fried rice cake with vegetables and sausage, along with two cups of green tea, and before leaving to the 10 yuan.
Out is the quay, relying on a Wu Pengchuan, "old hat" hoarse throat 10 of money promised to carry us back to a town tour. Two people set foot on the narrow boat immediately shook up the old man is extremely calm in the middle of the command that we should not sit move, turned the boat quickly balanced.
This is a typical Shaoxing boatman, feet and a paddle in hand a rudder, propeller control the speed of rudder control direction. Old man 76 years old, fancy open eyes do not open their eyes, facial features are all packed pile together, red face as if a burden had just drank the wine, boating is unambiguous, especially the feet kung fu, that has been making oars whipped up and down splash, it is my generation can not and hands.
Waterside vegetables little daughter close, really good-looking, river swimming ducks with our colleagues, your head held high gaggle came to town, the mouth of the stage, there were already very busy, and beheld a spoken-word that just a few old man. Wu Peng-half to lie down half the blue sky, across an arched bridge seat, and accompanied by Jiang Sheng, Shanghai Triad, Triad ... ...
We do not intend to become the target of the shore urchin, one by one at the side of the boat exploding firecrackers scared fellow wah-wah and scream aloud, hiding inside the shed did not dare show his face, heavy gunfire awakened by our ancient dream.
Grand-master of the ship is under the grand hall, the face of approaching a gown to wear the "hat" Does it mean that this is the grand-master? He Chong We smiled, this man named Lou, are the grand-grandparents more than ten generations, and now no more of this profession, he was not going to change to the grand hall Yamen to work.
Grand-master is a kind arising from the late Ming and Qing dynasty flourished in the demise of the special job in the early Republican era, the local government offices in charge of officials (officers) hired to help deal with their own Xing Ming, Zenitani, papers and other matters without official position of the Sukemasa personnel. Shaoxing rich grand-master, like Hunan play will, out of Huizhou merchants, Jiangxi, a barber division, Jurong Carpenter feet, like a tick, is a regional distribution of the phenomenon of professional talent. Qing Dynasty, Shaoxing People often say that there are "three pass", that is, Shaoxing, Shaoxing, then Shaoxingshiye, Shaoxing, this can also be found very many people when the grand-master. Old there is "no Shao fragmentation Ya," saying, "Shao" refers specifically to Shaoxing's adviser.
Why Shaoxing abound grand? There are many reasons: Because the prevalence of Shaoxing style of writing, reading too many people engaged in competitive examinations held business, get the job of the scholar many, in order to escape poverty, many people choose to the next best thing to do grand. Shaoxing person is a citizen of rivers and lakes rich in adventurous, willing to migration, the concept of a homebody relatively weak, they relate to when the grand career around the needs of running the characteristics of fit. Shaoxing has a fine because of rigorous, the characteristics of good planning for when the grand-master, so when the grand-master of Shaoxing, a particularly large number of people and easy to be so good. Screen to learn give and accept generally carried out in the family and friends old friends, but family and friends old friends are mostly locals, Shaoxing, who would become the grand-master the original, the more, and if a professor of Shaoxing Shi Ji-screen screen more than learning, it would lead to grand Shaoxing Ji Cheng -fold increase in Shaoxing, which is an important reason why a large number of grand-master. Ming Dynasty, the Ministry of multiple Shaoxing. After the middle of the Ming Dynasty, local officials with the Ministry in order to grasp the weight of the right to complain Shaoxing people pass in order to seek care, had to use man-made grand Shaoxing, Shaoxing, Ji grand be filed which is an important reason.
Shaoxing people do not many high officials, but to manipulate the centuries-old Chinese concubine of politics, but also a miracle in China's political history. But today all that and grand, derogatory little more praise is due to changes caused by the late Qing-screen romantic. Some people have to Shaoxing's "Shao" word summed up as follows: "engage in Laigao go, and finally a villain; a bitter mouth, a pen knife," penetrating depicted Shaoxingshiye image. Today Shaoxing people have is just normal to look at the history, treating this legacy: "Shaoxingshiye in history that will remain hung in the snow mud claw of India, should be more impeccable known to the world, its own objective and a note."
Baiyang 10 temen the most traditional houses in Shaoxing area of Taiwan door, the door into the generally three-to five into the courtyard, dozens of the house inhabited by a large family, from generation to generation over the house several hundred years of history. Chang town there was an upright and when the station door, Fong station doors, on the size and the master status, Chang Yeung Village, 10 units of white near the door then the more well-known, it is the former residence of the Ming dynasty minister of state Zhu Xie Yuan, Zhu Xie yuan rose to the rank Hyobu Book of History, was the imperial sword, supervision, Guizhou, Yunnan, Guangxi Zhujun, is the highest official Chang area historical figures.
We got on a small three bumps in the fields and went to explore the white-Yeung Village.
Yeung Village, West Bank, according to White River was built old houses mixed with modern buildings, in addition to a more quiet, it seems that Chang is more than rhyme. Pointing in the village, we walked down a Shenxiang, getting better,
In a bow-wow, we do not the door through several openings, wearing a few weeds yard, there are ruins people's communes posters, a scene of ruins. After another 1 openings, while the mottled wall towering wall stopped at the door before the gate a letter to "ancient Xiang Tong" words, brick door cover door solemn ancient bluestone, and Fang Cai scenery seen a huge difference, so that our spiritual earthquake. Xu Yan a door, door-order, over the courtyard, is a tall church building, Gallery pre-smooth, delicate four round columns, the ground bluestone paving, Juan Peng Gallery top, gray tiles cover, both sides of the eaves and Qiao Jiao, Ma Tau walls, interior walls Langxia hatchback are wet milling and brick lintels, simple elegant, inlaid with block stone wall from top to bottom windows.
At the moment from the wing coming out of a middle-aged woman holding bowl at the dinner, see the strange looks we look around, this old house, what a good-looking to begin with us.
Into the main hall, offices about 4 meters, squares are paved, rough columns side gate, generous floor doors and windows, the roof top of the upper beam brackets care, thick beams up and down along the mouth tailgate window grilles hollowing a simple and neat to see is a building of Ming Dynasty style. But has no corresponding living room furniture, has become a storage room, piled with debris everywhere. After the hall is a garden, planted a sturdy loquat tree, the Central is a pool.
"In the past this garden can be beautiful, with laurel trees, and now as big as tree loquat tree, planted all over with fragrant flowers can be four seasons, the pool is very clean and the child, and raised a lot of goldfish. Now moved into a field of the tenant, the GUI trees cut down, nor flowers nor fish, slovenly slovenly untidy dirty dead. "
But I was very satisfied with the Hometown scenery, old window lattices, a moss-covered wall, a pool of still water floating two leaves, history seems to solidification.
Backtrack, the sun very good country folk banquet laid them out in the courtyard, and we drank the wine, nibbling chicken, drunk go.
Shaoxing Lu Xun on the road. Xian Heng Hotel was short, being submerged in a pair of high-rise buildings, and the emergence of three copies, the only way to identify the shop on the ground in front of a bronze statue of holes have been, as Xianheng's star has been not only to face the hole queuing photo of groupies, but also around the dozens of tables to resist the temptation to eat and drink outdoor tourists. Into the hotel, sitting in that seat five years ago by his side is full of tourists far apart not alone that year old man with a hat his face red as a bowl of wine from two money rose to eight dollars.
Fortunately, the wine has not changed, or so mellow, sweet entry, potentially very strong, tipsy hazy, we savor the thick atmosphere of Shaoxing, Chang returned to the day before the leisure time of life ... ...
Author: photoman