Longwangshan Travel Notes - 99 years when I was a child written
School of Mechanical Engineering of Shanghai Jiaotong University
"Friends of Green" Environmental Association Gold
In September 1999 to August 20 this year, August 26, I attended college students in Shanghai, "Lvse Ying" activities came to Anji County, Zhejiang Province, on the county's agriculture, forestry, tourism and environment status and prospects for sustainable development was investigated. Among them, a key activity is the source of the Huangpu River on the ground reconnaissance - is also the highest peak in the Taihu Lake Basin and the main peak Tianmushan - Longwangshan.
Longwangshan is located in Lin'an County, Zhejiang Province, Anji County and the junction, but also in Taihu Lake Basin and the Qiantang River watershed, peak elevation of 1587 meters. 5 kilometers south peak, that is, the West Tianmu (1506 meters), is more than 10 kilometers east southeast of Tian Mu Shan (1479 m). The mountain is in the Nanjing-Wuhu in Anhui Province plains, Jiaxing-Huzhou Plain, and southern Anhui, western Zhejiang mountains of the central government. As the mountains north is flat, Shannan is a mountain stretching hundreds of kilometers south of Zhejiang and therefore I because of the terrain effect, the North and the South warm and humid air mass of cold air this intersection, the temperature drop, resulting in more rain. The rainfall is far beyond the nearby Taihu Lake and the Nanjing-Wuhu flat plains, reaching an annual 1800mm. As the mountains and the vegetation water, regulating the role of water, so the mountains two perennial river water stability, and flow to the foot of the mountain towns and villages long chapters Village, convergence became Nanxi constitute xitiao a great source of traffic streams. At the same time, the mountainside is the native deciduous broad-leaved and coniferous mixed forest, where the money song (Jinsong), Japanese cedar, ginkgo, and an abundance of ferns, in addition to Magnolia amoena, Liriodendron chinense, the China Lamei, iron, wood, etc. rare species. Mountain is surrounded by 1200 hectares of national Mount Longwang Nature Reserve, its animal and plant resources has been well protected. There is a mountain peak near the marshes, were "acres of fields", according to our analysis, it probably is the source of Xitiaoxi, that is the source of the Huangpu River.
For the above reasons, we "Lvse Ying" in the four most abundant physical strength, fighting the most expensive players - Shen, Shanghai Jiaotong University College of Agriculture, Public Health, Department of Geography at National Taiwan Normal University graduate students in particular, the author himself, and Anji County, waterway Authority a teacher who, in the preparations for the case, scheduled for August 25 to Longwangshan launched its attack. Our plan is to: early morning the mountains, after the arrival of the peak-line Longwangshan south of the West Tian Mu Shan. Planning based on expenditure from the Taihu Lake Basin Plan on line 5 km, according to the empirical formula proposed by Shen need to take the 6, that is quite a Ping Road, 30 km time required. Great certainty at 17:00 to arrive before dark head Nishi peak, the summit hotel that is under 100 meters.
August 25 morning, we dock early in the morning 7:15 departure from the red to xiaofeng transfer to the chapter village, sub-vehicle to the foot of the Dragon King Longwangshan Hill (which is a small tourist hotel, recently Longwangshan start small-scale development of their tourism resources ). Arrived at about 9:15 Longwangshan nature reserve entrance, we entered the straight nature reserve office, inquire about the situation. But the results were disappointing: one-from their 5000 forest management plan, we have two conclusions: (1): Longwangshan pinnacle of desperation to pass, 1550 meters above sea level in general can only come to the acres of fields. (2): want to head to the Western Paradise, you can try the over the acres of fields by the fire after two hours away from the ridge saddle, find a path, straight south through the valley, again head up the Western Paradise. However, this road is quite long, protected areas, staff have not been to Western Paradise mesh. As a result, five people agreed to first go to acres of fields, depending on the actual head decided to go to any Western Paradise. Before their departure, we looked at several times share of hard bread detailing an attempt to be imprinted in their minds.
9:30, march to the acres of fields! Mountains of debris piled up the mountain route, a little easy on the Dong Ling mountain road. Natural stone road is also rough, its just too narrow at Chi Yu, rocks obstruct foot, quite dangerous. On the way over two mountain streams, one easy, class parks the Broken Bridge; the other one is more difficult: I am crawling around on the rocks in the water, carefully but still wet shoes and feet. Steep Hill high, wet stone after the rain, climbing is not easy. Road, only focused their attention on the feet of the former, very few looked up at the extension of a short walk in the Guairu a Congguan Mu Shan Road, to stop making their heads from the thick branches and leaves in awe-inspiring to see the mountain, to pulse, as a: to bear in mind "do not walk observation, viewing not walk," the mountain-line aphorism, or even a sprained ankle caused by small things like mountain climbing you will be thwarted plans; 2: in front of people walking every step of the instructions can be a safety for future generations solid foothold, step by step to follow to save strength, while avoiding unnecessary distractions - such as the mountain is difficult'm off like - to exhaustion.
Go, go, go. Every 20 minutes or half an hour, we will break 5 minutes. But I always felt that a break will never be enough: Closed End, I can only maintain 30 seconds exuberant energy, then only the same as the snail with the Guardian in particular, or behind the step on their footprints. A teacher and Shen are more to do avant-garde back, Gao Ren is also! In particular, a teacher wearing a pair of slippers go into the mountains, down the mountains, little foot injury. Begins farther hot, but when the shirt is all wet, the feeling is blowing coolness, in particular, is to rest. Yamashita temperature of 28 degrees that day, according to temperature of 0.6 degrees per 100 meters is estimated that in principle, to the mountain top is down 9 degrees, only 19 degrees. Despite the large number of cooling the body up the mountain, but eventually that gets cold, so each person to bring along a piece of clothing (fortunately not in the mountains by the end).
10:30 XU, we have come to a kiosk, located in the mountain halfway, and Huangshan same function on the rest kiosks. Here is a nature reserve and therefore I also have a number of professional or quasi-professional climbers. General vulgar little off because there is no more direct traffic directly to the foot (unless the tourists a private car). However, along the way there are still a lot of food packaging bags, sausage skin, mineral water bottles and the like, a little unpleasant. We sit down and rest in the kiosk, Danjue mighty cool mountain wind from the side galloped down the valley. Although there is no head winds are right, I still to blow a hint of winter - it was only August 25, 1,100 meters above sea level around the northern hemisphere subtropics. Looking back at a time when, they saw the scene of lingering You Yuan - looked out from the valley, Shen dull gray sky was dark green on both sides of the mountains of Dai Qing folder leaving only a "V" type. "V" at the bottom of the near horizon is still white, while the more up to go, color attributes actually enjoy was gloomy. Mountains, the distance can see Yingyingchuochao Anji County, the central plains to the extension of the roads lead to low pulse. Nanxi feet murmur from the shed, to chapters village, it has already become a broad River, past the old stone-faced until the reservoir, the import Xitiaoxi, gradually into the surging trend. Things Tiaoxi in Huzhou City, under the exchange of a river into the lake after, but dongtiao River water, mainly originated from the southern foot of Long Xugou Dongling West Creek - South Tiaoxi - dongtiao River supply, while the Southern Shao-hsi's Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal water was used in regulating water balance and river basins of the water level difference, and while flowing through Lin'an, Yuhang, Deqing, Huzhou suburban counties and when some traffic is used for irrigation. Nanxi - xitiao mighty stream is the way the inflow of Taihu Lake. Shao Creek, Jingxi into the lake two shares of water, gather the pot, and carries out is derived from the Western Zhou Dynasty, Wu culture, feeding a large, said Wu in today's 43 million residents.
A teacher who's gives a yell broke my reverie far empty. Please leave quickly, we do not want to pristine forests.
Climb, climb, climb. (If not, why is called "climbing" mountain do?) The temperature getting lower and lower, clothes on a cold sweat now attached to the skin. Despite the Qichuanruniu, we arrived at around 11:45 a small piece of ground. This is a small saddle, east of 300 meters there is a mountain, more than 100 meters higher than here; the west is a winding path up the soil, that is the way to acres of fields; the level of visibility is not more than 1000 meters, flat looked out just a vast expanse of whiteness, nothing. Saddle area of about an acre or so, long a number of herbs with a globular inflorescence above the swallowtail butterfly, covered with a large one. Clouds of shade on the ends of the cloudy gray head exposed. We walk in the shade too much, the sky gray Daohai some glare. Some dark gray of the clouds are moving rapidly eastward, its edges appear in our heads a couple of hundred meters in a small strands of rain drift fall. If the weather was fine, we can see that more than 10 kilometers southeast of the East Division heading days. My rough estimate here the height of 1450 meters or so (a pity that we did not take the empty boxes throughout the Lvse Ying barometer can not be measured above sea level height). Our goal is to acres of fields, so one of the photo when finished, everyone on the great strides in the direction of walking to the acres of fields.
10 meters wide along the left and right sides where all the trees chopped down, covered with a variety of herbs. In fact this is a fire with a dirt road. Fire zone is along the ridge line or cut down trees in the watershed will be 10 meters wide, so as to avoid the spread of a hill slope to another slope. Here, this is a fire zone north of Anji County, Longwangshan protected areas, is a lake water system; south of the Western Paradise is the Lin'an County, head of protected areas, belong to the Qianjiang River. Went up along the fire with a little time on the road flattened, and in power impressively a Jinsong, 6-7 meters high, more than half a meter diameter, Tong Tong, such as car cover. This must tour our predecessors when they planted acres of fields, intended for human use in a rest enjoy the cool air. Tree quite rubbish bags and other relics of the rest enjoy the cool air, and we fell at this time and not so disgusted, because they can confirm that we have not taken the wrong road. Next, the road getting smaller and smaller, Luancao down increased recently had. We really rely on sausage skin, cookies bags to navigate. And went a few minutes, and have a right of a clump of trees, a brown long-grass plains, suddenly appeared on our right, giving the impression as if People's Park is a large lawn. 100 meters north of the forest, the west is a white mist and fog, may have to extend a few hundred meters. Do not have a teacher to speak, we all know: the acres of land, altitude of 1550 meters high mountain swamp.
Acres of land, the actual area of a few dozen acres, is a true alpine swamp. We take a cautious one foot in, for fear that a wrong step in life trapped in the end. Block to a plate type, the peak of the accumulation of precipitation all this, it is estimated displacement of the surface soil underneath the smaller plate-shaped layer of impermeable clay, it constitutes a swamp. Shen Ruo-yu Badao earth-like, knife dug down only some of the yellow, soft Huhu things are rotten roots. As such a swamp, we saw year after year, long grass, I am afraid that a thick layer of rotting grass turns have become peat below the bar.
In addition to grass (short grass, like parks in poor lawn grass), we do not have acres of fields to see other important biological. No birds, snakes, small mammals or amphibians. Do not know on a sunny day, or migratory season of what would happen here. Within a radius of several kilometers This is the only piece of grass, it is worth careful study.
In the acres of fields we have only spent a quarter of an hour, picking End earth is done taking photographs in a hurry the road. Program, starting from the acres of fields and take a two-hour fire into a small ridge across the road, from road head to the Western Paradise, to go a full 4 hours. Plans to head peak 16:00 to reach the Western Paradise. However, back to antecedents, they found fire with a point, can still be seen in front of the fire with a dirt road all buried in the herbs of up to one meter and a half years. It seems that acres of fields are often people coming, so it is like a road, but the path in front of Natiao are less people go, even if there are also plants a long way without the (uphill ago, Longwangshan protected area office that guy said Fire zone last spring, "just" cutting down the grass once - that plenty of rain and sparsely populated areas can be a long year, how much ah!). Shen at the head to clear the way while on the road with large branches, sweeping aside the bottom of the herbs (to arouse his suspicions), while the upper half of the grass stems poke yourself reluctantly passed. Struggling to walk for five minutes, did not get out much, it seems blind alley. Fortunately, we have plans to strive for the other fire from the northeast and the trail junctions with the trail to shun Pinghsi village, and then ride to the Western Paradise mesh. So hurry back.
11:45 arrive back to the plot of saddle on the way, we are actually famous person voice! Hurriedly yelling to communicate with the other side went so far as call-back, contact on the! We are starting from 9:30 Villa from the Dragon King has yet to see the extraordinary, and I feel naturally more excited. Who is likely to rain in this moment, like us, up the hill then? Approached, and connected to the words, and was originally a bunch of college students in Jiangxi, there are 78 bar, but also to examine acres of fields. They have a girl inside, from 9:45 mountains, we have three quarters of an hour late to the saddle. They also have a local guide, we asked about him the way to go Pinghsi village, he said he knew along the fire zone, the east along the saddle to the summit Nazuo peaks, and then cis-fire zone along the ridge down to the southeast , until the ridge flattened, that is another saddle, you will find one across the ridge of the mountain, leading to Pinghsi village. Shihoubuzao, and warm farewell, we are duty-bound to continue to fast forward. In fact, we saw no other people before 17:30.
The Jiangxi classmates, saddle, and then left behind a group of butterflies, we began to climb to 100 meters Nazuo appears to have the hills. The way up the hill with a dirt road or a fire, a very steep slope, the grass grow to calf high, messy dirt road there are many small stones. Stepping on the thick grass and sometimes unreliable stones, we go up with the momentum of the impact, but is still climbing the side of the side to arouse his suspicions. Roadside long a kind of grass, a big a big Peng Peng, the tubular grass stems are quite sturdy. This is the Alpine Rush, the pathway is too steep to seize a lot of hands, is almost able to support the weight of the body - including your backpack. In the last hundred meters to the hills, there are too many times to use the Alpine Rush. In the last meters to the sixties and seventies, we climbed up a rock break. In the above, to see acres of fields on the road, but whatever tree or a large gang of Jiangxi Jinsong students have been out of sight. Looking to the sky, see a big cloud Mission West, the days have stained the risk. Time is 1:00, we must hurry. Is still steep road, grass and stones, but from the edge of the forest tree species have been converted into broad-leaved trees such as oak trees and other conifers of the Pinus taiwanensis. All of a sudden we have met a large stone walls, 10 meters wide, 30-degree slope. Above, except for some lamellar cleavage caused by a narrow piece for a springboard, only Alpine Rush can I help the Shi. Looked at, this is the right path, so only on the. Everyone's quite in the success, except when I am in the final three meters feet tread not really Ershi body weight added to the two on the outside of the Alpine Rush. We do not want to repeat the mistake of Beijing University climbers girl - she was dropped by a full 400 meters height.
Cliff had finished, leaving the road like child's play, peak moment drew near. It was a few dozen square soil plains, its middle there is a triangular monument, about a foot high, the inscription "geodetic marks - Survey and Mapping Office, Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Province Military District," the side there is a "Little Raccoon" instant noodles, bag, the word is still clear. I am so overjoyed, first, because the total height of this mountain there are more than 1550 meters, fitted count Longwangshan second peak, and because the main peak (1587 m) have no other available on the sub-peaks can be considered a worthwhile trip, and there is geodetic marks as evidence; second floor there are bags of instant noodles, indicating it was up too recently, then we would not have scared. Peak as well as the slow-down the north ridge and hillside are the soil, and thinly long with some Pinus taiwanensis, money loose. There Several Strains of Pinus taiwanensis fell to the ground, exposing its roots: the level of the root was like to be radiating outward, the vertical depth of only 10-20 cm. It turned out that the Peak and the ridge of the topsoil is thin, these Pinus taiwanensis dozens of centimeters thick, but the root system is not rolling into the rocks, had to disperse in the surface soil to all sides. Estimate is that heavy rain washed the topsoil, high winds knocked down his (or lightning splitting down). However, this root structure and the tropical jungle of the plate-like root but added that similar to the Miao.
Original plan, the shutter sound off after a while, we should head down to the Lin'an County Township Pinghsi days closer in the village. Down the road - with fire - more gentle, but deep in the bushes on the waist. Along the way the landscape is still sparse pine, occasionally there are some fallen. More distant landscape is considered by the east and west slopes of the dense forest block, and the mountain water vapor density is still large, visibility less than 1,000 meters. We continue from the waist-deep in grass to find a way forward, a border snakes. Along the way we see only two snakes, one is on the top of the mountain, once down the road. Snake is not much grass here is pretty bad: a grass stems have thorns, and the total number. In the downhill of the second and third stage, which grass gives us getting bigger trouble. Down the slope, and now about 10 degrees Celsius, which is a gentle, but the time is late, see: up to 4 hours after the days to go before dusk, and we are still a little bit faster. If the two points we have not seen the evening of the resident, it is necessary to spend the night in the mountains thinking of doing a good job preparing.
However, ten minutes later when we went to a weathered rock at, the whole process of the most beautiful mountain scenes in front of us had. At that time, lead-gray clouds above our heads completely, the following is no water vapor, mountain Here is a clear and transparent. We climbed on the rock, first of all to see is the mountains southeast of the valley. Between the slopes and valley dotted with a few small pieces of color is slightly pale green, food and vegetable fields. The central field is a few red tiles and white walls of the room. This village is probably the Pinghsi the. It appears that the village is only 5,000 meters away from the straight line around, walked to a ridge at the lowest paths, not be able to reach the two-hour appearance. Continue to be an extension of the east-southeast horizon of attention: the same ridge Yumo spread like fingers on the plains above the valley, or between the fingers and the fingers, villages and countryside, and aerial traffic, just like houses. Clouds of heaven, in the 10 kilometers away has also been depleted to eliminate the distance sunny. Is the distance a big city, with eight times the telescope monastery is surrounded by the visual, faintly visible chessboard-like streets and houses. A total of three board-like city, dozens of streets close together, we guess this is the Lin'an county (Figure on the Measure 40 km away). Is far horizons seen from the telescope line of office, there is a flash in the sunlight region. Is this the Qingshan Reservoir do?
Looked to the north, but also a broad perspective. Anji County, where north is, far and near a 34 ridge, the whole hillside is a no gap, even the same color of fresh green. Four weeks is essentially a variety of levels with a variety of levels of gray green in two colors: green, in front of you is the hillside Yi Keke Jinsong, a distance to distinguish the individual, and is the dark green pines, is a green bamboo the sea; gray, nearly 23 meters in the head, in a gray Under the Canopy, a large group from a large group of rain clouds of lead dust, or fast-moving from west to east. Suddenly, the clouds from different: the name of a volume of children with long strips of dark clouds, like a lace like hanging on the northern horizon, really human spectacle. For beauty is always dangerous mountain peak, a time, many did not head no tail of Classical poetry and literature began to fly around in my mind. Is said to Li Bai's "sleepwalking rubetsu Yin Tian Mu," is here - Tian Mu Shan. If it were not can be seen with the naked eye Pinghsi village which was indeed a place where no visitors to set foot in there is a paradise of flavor, but also brings a kind of nervous I do not know in this neat and beautiful gray green behind the What kind of things, but I do not know what will be after dark here, looks like. Hey - we can vaguely see the valley there is also a village, powder wall Uva, quite archaic. Village there is an asphalt road. The village, the village even closer than the Pinghsi, you can make a backup of our ultimate goal. Village after a mountain ridge in the direction consistent with the direction of our road. The ridge, you can see a light green slender belt, and disappeared up to wear when you are going. This is the fire zone, only the forest workers, the exploration team and the old mountain way to go before, and we are to walk.
We also hit the road. This time, the road and roadside landscape has changed: slope steepened, and usually 20-30 degrees, and some inter-district reached 40 degrees, even in bypass an awkward time to time a few meters of granite is a 60-degree slopes; Road edge Jinsong, Pinus taiwanensis also gave way to oak trees, cedar and the like, fire belt herbs and ferns are also more prosperous. We also saw a "small raccoons" instant noodles, bag - seems it is the exploration team members retained the brand will not be brought about by ordinary tourists. In this deserted place, we are a small team of people are still hard from the road stuck in waist-deep in grass, the fire along with a walk down the hill as fast. Even so, my heart is still gross Zaza: the mountains of biological well-protected, we are in their sites, where ... ... if not today, driven down the mountain before dark then? Can not go back now, and now so steep slope, Pabushangqu, as well as up when the next piece of dashi is not very good - or as soon as possible cautious downhill bar! Fortunately, everyone with a good equipment: knives, fire, a few catties hard tack, compass, binoculars, etc.; a teacher, Shen, and particularly the mountain have a rich life experiences; we all have the basic field Survival of knowledge and determination. The event have to spend the night in the mountains, survival of the subjective will and objective conditions are quite sufficient.
In the downhill on the road, steep roads, gravel, and grass is always difficult to handle so that we quite "good enough" in. Especially my "Torch" shoes, shoes removed, a little grip at all. Often a slippery slide, calling such would drop a butt-tun, the total must also grasp the hands of a weed, accidentally caught the kind of difficult to handle on the grass, suddenly Guaijiao forever, and I do not know, was the care of dozens of back. But once I stepped foot in a special soft soil, walk very trustworthy. Asked a teacher how it is formed, and his easy spit words: "wild boar arch." Confused us a while tensions. There are snakes, there are wild boar, said to have leopard, this mountain is indeed the nature reserve. Along the way, wild boar arch pine roots and soil is increasing. However, wild boar would normally not be sent out during the day, we still have hope. Slope is also steep, and addition of them grass. Suddenly, we found the way fork even go! Previously at high levels, we use the telescope along the fire with them are listed, should take one of the most eastern ridge is a mountain Pinghsi village. And now we have the right, shocking a slightly higher ridge height, it is a ridge should we go! Now, we can not see Pinghsi village, and will only farther and farther. Back is absolutely no possible, steep slopes is difficult, but also the way that we simply did not see anything on the fork in the road, maybe there is even more difficult way to go. We quickly calm down and decided to continue along this road, went to that powder wall Uva village. A teacher who found a pile of large branches, all at once armed, staffing a alpenstock, downhill suddenly security number.
Thank wild boar! If it were not a series of soft arch it a good go, I am afraid I have to throw more back. This is how we the right hand leaning on a stick, his left hand pulling grass, step one to go down a slide to go down the mountain. Along the way, we have encountered an abandoned more than six months for at least the framework of the woodshed; climbing a few back to rock; straight downhill slide of 10 meters; has been faced with a grass nest, there is a meter and a half in diameter, with mud as at the end of the above Circuit volume of the three grass child - a teacher who said that wild boar nest. As for the thorny grass and the like are also not trivial to mention. All the way to go down, we finally saw clearly that powder wall Uva village. Watching from the telescope, a large luxury house Dao Shi Ting Well, housing is also inserted in a head Xing Huangqi ... ... "That flag pole!" Shen uncontrollably, cry out: "That was the Dragon King Hill flag!" It's funny, soliciting so large a circle, we have to return to the starting point.
Is not even touching a while with a rolling climb was only about the size of the housing dominoes changed a little bigger; paved road is also apparent; opposite hillside there is also an earth road. Obviously, this is the Dragon King Hill. Affected by this stimulus, we stride straight forward, has been reached 16:45 Xu came to a long-abandoned concrete observation platform. Here from the asphalt road approximately 100 meters vertical height. In this, we made a final break. Looking back we climbed the second peak, as if from across thousands of miles away, exposing a small little head. From the peak of each meter road here, we are also step by step down. Has experienced extraordinary fear, but also all over the earth to see the beauty of long and almost invisible, the so-called "infinite beauty in the dangerous mountain peak." 17:00, we are big bang, straight down the mountain. However, the fire brought an end to this. Below 100 meters vertical throughout the most difficult to go into a section of the road, we have to pass through the bushes and trees on the hillside, and down a lot of cliff, finally, to the highway (about is from the top of Sheshan but do not wear the woods along any path went to the foot). Shen first voted down a large number of stones, stones rolling path through the passing scare away snakes. Then, with a teacher-led, everyone filed out, and hand pulled tight grass, tree branches to bear the body weight, foot groping towards set foot on a foothold. Balance of skill, and leveraging approach, tenacious strength of arm ... ... usually did not know the methods and quality never seen before, and now look at all there. My torch shoes slippery once, fortunately without incident. Down the two small cliff, overcoming all obstacles in the tens of meters away the bushes, we finally see the - in the lower slope 50 meters from the parallel extrapolation is the asphalt road. We can not wait, and shouted down to straight Chuan Lin, crossed the 50-meter jungle, jump as a two-meter-high gable of maintenance of way, his feet on solid step in the asphalt on the! When at 17:22 on August 25th, we are back.
Night we live in the Dragon King Hill. The next day, that is, Hui Hu a continuous 10 hours long by car.
Author: dasmarinas
