March 29, 2002
bbs.pku.edu.cn Category Discussion of recreation and leisure of the Travel Edition:
Subject: Labor Day holiday, some people want to go to Tiantai Mountain Mody?
- To find colleagues who probe "Spirit Mountain Road source" --
Attractions eastern Zhejiang Tiantai Mountain is located in Taizhou, the most northern, north of Ningbo, south bird's-eye view kuocang, Wild Goose, East of the East China Sea, rolling (in the peak of China on top, really be able to see the East China Sea).
Or by car from Hangzhou to Shanghai Xinchang, as long as two to three hours. Xinchang, a big Buddhist temple (CCTV "Willful" was filmed),穿岩十九峰, according to the students speak very good. Xinchang, Shengzhou Yan in the area is an ancient lie, will not be familiar with Tang's colleagues did not know, razor sharp, the Yan River circulating around many beautiful poems and myths. For example, Liu Chen and Ruan Zhao Yan River, Tiantai Mountain from herbs, JJ met two fairy stories. Also, for example, such as Li Bai, Meng Haoran, Xu Xia-ke, and so these people have to go this route than into the Tiantai Mountain, capitalized walked the article. Xu Xia-ke also visited two back, "Xu Xia-ke Journey" begins with a chapter that is Tiantai Mountain, showing the status of roof in his mind. Trail along the Yan of the Tang Dynasty into the Tiantai Mountain, wanted to come very good.
Tiantai Mountain is known as Spirit Mountain Road, the source. Kokuseiji Although modest, it was a real temple. It is one of the six Buddhist Tiantai the birthplace of several ups and downs, after vicissitudes. Tiantai Mountain is Southern Sect of Taoism at the same time the Holy Land, the first cave heavens to the Ji Ji, Sima Chengzhen, Ge Xuan, who have been practicing in the mountains, ancient stone herbs served the hermit who have to run there. Tongbai Tongbai Mountain View, want to come is still here. There can not fail to mention is the famous waterfalls of the beams, Tao Xu Xia-ke since walking on a natural stone bridge. There is a case of Ruan Xian Liu of Taoyuan, melancholy river. There are Chinese Top Mountain National Forest Park, produced an excellent mist tea. There are purple condensate waterfalls, cold rock (where the monk Han Shan), Tonghudilou, Akagi mountain sunset (sit back and color Xiao Xia, suspected Akagi standard - in fact the same Xia Akagi mountain with rocks), lots to talk about . Tiantai large, can live in the mountains at the foot of the roof-top town, the play slowly. Investigated, and inexpensive.
Child comes to an end of the Tiantai Mountain, you can continue to go south, to the Taizhou Sakon stroll. Such as the sea, the ancient city, Wenling, and Xianju something. Taizhou tourism promotion has always been not very busy, but Taizhou is a taste place. Fang-ju not say, and Chi Chi did not say. Yan Rui, Dai Fugu and Qi Zhou is also lots to talk about what. Taizhou, Zhejiang did not pass the railway the only prefecture-level city, Jiaojiang Hong Kong Maritime transport is developed, the mountain overlooking Relics leisurely.
There is a very crucial: It is now Tiantai Mountain is not very popular, to the side to go overseas visitors, often went to Ben Yandang. Virtually all those who have been told me, Yandang, Nanxi and Yongjia those places is very boring.
Come on, and then write a poem quoted Tang. Tang, Li Qiao: Peng Ge Taoyuan two actions, human can hear the sea is not just one day where sadness Huang Qin, He Li clouds on the hills.
Tiantai bad, right? Those who are tempted, please contact Shen baby look:)
QQ: 37394136
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April 29, 2002
T31, night train, exhausted.
Fortunately, there are students A salty home in Hangzhou. Follow the car first of Pseudostellaria Lane, Hangzhou City, or look like a dressing Weixing lazy. The early street stalls, floating a hazy white gas. Small Wonton is a translucent, clear broth afloat inside the dark green of chopped green onion and seaweed. Sitting is not a long time, surprised to find across the street from a wish does not take down the old house, turned out to be former residence of Lu.
When in Beijing, Hangzhou, is a thought inexplicable love. Unfortunately, the two had Qiantang are half awake. Last fall, the pavilion beside the lake where sleeping too, until the world is light rain. Today Yunliwuli also had Ben Lingyin away.
51 holiday yet that is the peak and visitors crowd Lingyin. Yesterday it rained, klippe soaked deep aura of the caves. The practice is catching up with things inside the temple, it was criticized for spending too, please Bodhisattva switch. Those monks who threw a long cassock, in the ethereal sound of Echo's recitation, Yi Meipiao move. Said to be the most spiritual Lingyin, someone asked me to request a shield to go back - but also to be open light. In fact, not open to open light, are placed in a glass case yard sale a few dozen yuan, which is so heart a desire to own a.
I do not know why Hangzhou unusually hot afternoon, the play no mind, stroll in the city. Qinghefang bought a "happy egg", bite the bullet and swallow. Hangzhou things look nice, but can not buy a back road. At about the one not seen in Hangzhou Wulin Square, meet girls in really curious tight. Gradually dark days, watching her from dusk Tingting's over.
A diary, I on A salty bedroom where she threw a wet hair. A salty care of me, stop here, tomorrow we should hit the road alone, I suddenly feel a bit uncomfortable. How the thinking about taking this trip for? Check that day two years ago, the anatomy textbooks, on the page corner found its own ambiguous handwriting:
"I hung the southeast look, Castle Peak country away from the water. Stern bow of ship to compete for profit-related, demand any trend. This do I have fitness, roof stone bridge to visit. Sit back and color-Xia Xiao, suspected Akagi standard."
Remembered, the original fantasy that they have for so long. So long, dreaming of The Legend of Tiantai Mountain, dreaming of a long song Haotan the Tangshizhilu. Because of Xu Xia-ke travels, because Li Bai Du Fu, because Fozong Road, the source, or because the situation that the rooftop Bi peach fantasy story? Themselves want to sure about this. Two years ago, wrote a lengthy martial arts, so that the lovely actress has done a Tiantai master. To write realistic, from the tourism, under all sorts of information online, people not go, and that Hill had been in the heart of the dense green. Finished the story, and one of Tiantai Mountain has boiled do not dream.
I said one day, must go there to see the. What, then Zhedong too far, has not really go with the less miss.
Everyone will have a dream, right? Miss miss came in the past, it is better under cross-amity, to make it complete.
Only now has come to Hangzhou, but a bit anxious. The study has been obediently, never alone, too far out of the door, how suddenly ran out to do a backpacker? Before coming out looking for a companion, in the bbs on a wide post, but, like me, not easy to find crazy people on Tiantai Mountain. One family did not dare to tell, for fear they are anxious too bad 51. In fact, we are afraid, can not find the hotel how to do? How do lose money? How do take the wrong bus? How to eat bad terrible dysentery do?
Playing a lot more people who naturally do not feel anything, but I never experience that before, that is so afraid of the wolf scared the former Tiger. Before coming out from Beijing, had a sister that if you are not halfway courage, they lived in Hangzhou play better. Hangzhou is good, I am almost too good to not courage, but I have to go down.
April 30 A salt on the windowsill in her home, looked at me hit the road.
Coach, ten of the "Zhejiang Express Bus" to the Xinchang. Fear of motion sickness, sleep on the bus on the medication. Wake up when the car window rain shrouded mountains and rivers everywhere, plain Gangcha retreated do not know where. Hop mind know that has entered the mountains of the south of Shaoxing. Xinchang is a small little mountain town. The township and the Shaoxing opera Shaoxing Shengzhou the same area, not far apart. Legend Tangshizhilu the starting point in this area. Meandering streams, Castle Peak looms, revealing a corner of the countryside gray brick, with the hometown of East Sichuan phase seems to just south of the soft layer is always hooded Qing Wan.
Tricycle pulled by the county center, the original streets are small hotels and accommodation so easily. Downstairs is a tailor shop, upstairs is a room, the boss gray hair, wearing glasses, do not speak Mandarin. Big Buddha Temple asked him to sit Which bus, the boss said that not far from very far, walk around to go.
Laugh, perhaps used to the way small town people go do not think, anyway I go waiting to no avail. Big Buddha Temple in the town sodu, leaning against Ming Shan, outside, Xiu-half-arc-shaped castle with painted Yapeng Daisha smile. Xinchang well-known, half of the care of the CCTV "Willful" Fu, has brought about the city of Xinchang Buddha. I can not help a bit worried about them.
Buddha first entered the city, but some lawn avenue ah ah, there are some concrete pavilion. A quiet afternoon, very few visitors, even a photo of the person to help me grasp. A half, has finally seen the open-air Buddha, Maitreya Defied Hareyama laugh, so - photo. Cliff on Luohandong, painted sculptures Lohan process flat, horizontal inscribed board Dao Shi Jin Yong to the subject. Beyond that walked, mountainside, there are Qing Dynasty City God Temple. Chengguan moved from inside the AS, the Shiren Shima, grassland knees, eaves hanging on the Poisson Jizhi yellow. Big Buddha Temple in the mountains over there, then I think that some imply.
All the temples are the same, large Buddhist temple made me some little surprise. This insight that good things are always hidden in the deepest. With the large Buddhist temple, Xinchang this trip will not be virtual. Fu into the gate, did not see temples, first a vast clear water out of a bare hillside opposite the large rock, much of the carved "Fangsheng Chi - Southern No Amitabha." Lingyin Temple in Hangzhou, Xikou the Xuedou Si, etc. have Fangsheng Chi, but did not made such a style, as if born in a mountain lake. Around the lake, two old camphor tree in the previous meandering through the Heavenly King Hall, the back is a long a corridor along the foot of a wall around.
Rocks on Mi Fu Yi Mo, "facing the wall." Mountains and, on a platform built on a hillside opposite the Hall of Maitreya, the next to the temple, looking upward, a look at is the famous "First Jiangnan Buddha." Originally thought that both this name, the inevitable momentum arrogant. The Maitreya statue hidden in a deep tree temples, the insignificant mountain will not dew, the provincial people meditate. Said open space in front of palace Napian is "Defied" contest where three of the Shaolin Temple scene was very cramped, I do not know how scene was shot. But well, in the temple which is also invisible traces of drama, large temple is still a big Buddhist temple.
Then around for a while, that is, Main Hall, front of palace stone Furui. After that there are hotels. Ijok saw a few monks, not as elegant Lingyin monk. Jacket Mans shoes, blazing a sitting. About because it is the afternoon, not many tourists. Its winding large Buddhist temple has become more quiet and narrow. When the evening out, sit Fangsheng Chi Center, look at both sides of the lake, the vague shapes of mountain trees, hear the monk sweeping across the front of the hall to the voice of Tibet. Dusk and lifeless, and really only an "empty" character of the.
Back to the hill in front, small to see, still not see where the hidden temple. Jungle Guta 3, deciduous in one place.
That sweeping monk unexpected return, to see just a tourist, I have not walk, they came to ask. Speaking of Hangzhou to Beijing, the train should be more long time?
Back to the town, the small store to a bowl of fried rice cakes. Jiangnan favorite flavor of cake, Beijing, eat less than this time out, to eat your fill of the United States and the United States.
May 1 arduous task, today we find the remains of Tangshizhilu.
Xinchang bought an administrative map. Along the 104 national highway, with Taoyuan fairyland, the Liu Xian Ruan encountered where there is Sima Chengzhen leave the roof when the bridge halfway dismount Sima regret how are we going to find it? Holding a map of the station asked Aunt told me to sit to ru'ao crossing the town car at a place called Ao inside the next.
Or cool and bright morning, the night before the next rain, mountains green and moist. Is my ao inside out of the car, but found that the small station was deserted, even the signs do not have one, only see a circle around the mountain. Finally found one at a gas station worker on duty, he did not know what the near Taoyuan, hailed me back, to long-Chao authority to ask the village reservoir.
Wozhou Lake reservoir, it should be Xinchang a newly developed tourist spot. Foot of the mountain is a reservoir factory, the factory's gate can wait outside the bus from the village. Walking along the Road, meandering and, on the way mountain flowers live up Lennon. Recognize only the pink and Koshiro out of the cuckoo, were ulterior motives in hanging a heavy rain. Panshan several times and saw the Peak 1 Toru Wang Blanchir cold water, and wanders the dark and rain filled the humid. A few boats cross the lake, waiting for people to rent a lake to swim. I asked a question chartering's aunt, still do not know what the so-called Taoyuan.
Is it to draw the map of the human fabrications?
Coming down the mountain, really a bit at a loss. Today is 51, to the reservoir are very few tourists, mostly around the residents of a family and with a population over boating fishing.
There is an idea brought a map into the brain, Liu Nguyen Taoyuan along the stream to find the. Map point of view, Taoyuan of the river is flowing down from the reservoir, now at my feet. All told, also 20 years inside the mountain.
Then at noon, it began to drizzle. I have an umbrella Yanxi themselves up.
Hill gradually deepens.
Suddenly, a stream down in a bamboo forest. To bypass a bridge, he saw in front of the rock Cui Wei. At this time, two large dogs from the bamboo grove next to a courtyard where rushed out barking, and then they come out a few people Hezhu the dog.
I seized the opportunity to ask the road.
"There are all primary forests, villages were gone. We do not go in." Masters surprised.
A guilty conscience, and on foot Chuan Lin, and even basic equipment at all.
"Then I'm going to owner mountains go, how to get it?" Can not find the Taoyuan always to find the owner Sima regret Mountain Bridge, take a look at Sima Chengzhen Tiantai and wandering off for a place.
An uncle suddenly guess I came to a few of Tang poetry. "Do not stay sleepwalking Tian Mu Yin, Li Bai, come to us off呀."
Ru'ao suggested that I go to town to go, Uncle squat on the ground draw from the map. Ru'ao east of the town is the Tian Mu Shan, Tian Mu Mountain West, facing the owner mountains. Thanked the master, I shunxi away. Farewell Wozhou Lake got on the original fork.
Rain a little bit of wet windows. 104 State Road mountains CROSSLINE, car window, I hit the road since the most magnificent scenery. This awe-inspiring mountains, almost so that I thought went to the north of the Han Dynasty Sichuan's Daba it. Mountains greeted Wanhe Fengtao. Mongolia and Mongolia's rain inside to see the non-real, and could feel the quiet and narrow and tight eternal, all condensed there. The foot of a small people, huts and dilapidated, 1:00 2:00.
That is so deterred Sima Chengzhen place. Willing to please the emperor's edict also takes second place to place. He went back once again, what fast track, it would only provoke despise the ear.
Unconsciously After a half an hour, ru'ao the town up.
Hill owner do?
Tickets girl stared: "Just now is the owner Hill had not it?"
Really? The original of those deep mountains, old village is?
I missed it. How to do? And then to go back?
Ru'ao town fork in the road forward is the county seat of today's destination, the rooftop. A pair of middle-aged couple sitting at the edge of flower beds and other crossing cars. The past, take a few shamefaced, that they realized the seriousness of the matter. Two of them had been waiting for three hours.
"Is there to the roof of the car?"
"Should not have more, today it is 51."
Zhejiang traffic management is very strict, full member of the really prevent re-boarding.
This is something, I really can not go. To sit down together and so on. Come to a rooftop of a bus, stop all refused pause.
Middle-aged couple, the northern accent, a inquiries, originally came to do business in Henan. I snicker, I wonder if in Henan and Zhejiang, who who is too refined. Origin asked me, I would say in Hangzhou. From today onwards I have declared themselves out from Hangzhou, in order to appear less totally unfamiliar.
Such a long time.
Finally a pickup truck parked in front of us. The driver said, took us to the rooftop of the county seat.
Messiah ah!
However, only two seats.
Aunt was very difficult to look like: "Take three, right? A Hangzhou girl, do not throw her a person here."
However, no less than a carriage ride indeed. I say you go first better. It is because while there to the roof of the bus came to see me and people who are easy to Shao Shang. But by this time uncle had climbed the back of the convertible Cha Du-ri.
Suddenly a bit guilty, why did I say that they are Hangzhou, it?
Do Henan his wife, was a Motuo La to the roof-top town, bus stop opposite a dilapidated old house. Wife and children have been quite reluctant to live in that hotel, the boss must be me "to go up." Two-story, large and small potted was spread from the stairs to the open-air platform, overlooking the dilapidated old city. So I was bought.
Dropped a backpack, look around town. Seems a bit disappointed, roof Xinchang than the neat and quiet and narrow. Engage in tourism festival, massive construction projects in the city bustling, Kazamaki Chen Sha. Is this not a strict core of the home? Dangling from the first county that had wandered apart, Wang Dan, ask loquat and tea prices. Roof to speak to, and sure enough sonorous words, and Shaoxing, Ningbo, is different.
It was early, looked for a cafe looking through the post, they ran two centuries not see friends. I said that I was in the Tiantai Mountain --
May 2 This can be strange, and up till today, in relation to clear out of the country, beams, and Chinese top mountain, which travels inside story of the novel far the most exciting and the most I Dreamed soul pull place. Got up early, but a little bit of excitement at all. 7 Road in the city find a bus bound for Kokuseiji way. Saw far from the foothills of a Sienna, which is the south gate of Tiantai Mountain - Akagi Xia starting to build standard.
Xu is because the development has been a long time, Kokuseiji than I imagined, as quiet, pine and cypress Atlas of the avenue on which dust off from time to time there are vehicles. Nine o'clock when the temple filled with pilgrims who come to the small and dilapidated incense shop in dealing with only two Zhike Seng, too busy turning here.
However, Guo-qing is indeed a true temple. Lingyin magnificent, large Buddhist temples were not scattered quiet, Kokuseiji large, is still being repaired, everywhere is the solemn atmosphere of the Buddhist. Kokuseiji heritage museum is one of half of the Tiantai Mountain of the local history, profound, quite impressive. Today, exactly a foreign monk lectures, lying in the window listening to a return on the lattice.
Interestingly, those rooms, Piandian, what clinic, room readily available. It was in the back yard and clean laundry, pole. Lying on the windows look inside look inside their dining hall was a monk. Bowl, and a label into a row of neat, but rather the same as military training. Temple monks a lot, but not elsewhere blind monk of greeting visitors. Their self-serving walk around, have not Phi monks, mountain shoes, jacket knickers, there is no kind of Yi Mei fluttering Lingyin monk looks like.
Convoluted, almost lost her way. When I look back, I suddenly saw the corridor around the corner, a big "goose" is used. Wang Xizhi heard the story of a child to write, but, yes here. Look at the introduction, the original peak in China, Wang Xizhi was for Mr. Bai Yun Ling Hui mountains studying calligraphy, leaving Ban Gezi's artworks, buried in a Chinese temple roof was later found in the Tiantai person Cao whirl. The right half of the existing character is Wang Xizhi goose, the left side is the Cao-lun, written in the election meeting, an integral whole and can not distinguish. Cao Wang Xizhi simply whirl to fill it Bange Zi, a full practice for seven years, this pious also rare situation indeed.
Read Sui Mei, transfer out, the 9:30, visitors are more and more noisy temple together. Selling joss sticks, a few beads, wooden fish hawkers were filled on both sides of the road.
The West line of this stream of water out of stone in the Terakado, this park from the north from the Kitayama stream turbidity and from Ganoderma lucidum peak of the West of a clean stream, convergence in abundance dry under the bridge, a yellow one green, torrent back to Yang, is a "double-stream back to Lan." Unfortunately, today's water is too small, straight not much better at. Far to see Sui tower, tower residual half to show off the ancient vicissitudes.
From the Kokuseiji out, catch a bus to the famous beams.
Nowadays played off rain, a lot of tourists Shilianghe, slowly rub on the inside from the Hill. The beams after the rain falls exceptionally turbulent flow. From the top of the wide Temple, to the downstream cents raft bridge, the Galaxy fell diarrhea normal water flow, a section of the shoot down. Zhuying around trees, banana hold green, from time to time a tree came a rhododendron or hydrangea Qingli. Guang Temple on the top side of the bridge beams, built on mountains, small and exquisite Taiwan Pavilion stairs. Laos temple with Buddhist temple and the monks, a bamboo bed, bamboo shoots, and Liang Zhao dark. Leaned against the gable was built from a flight of stairs go to the waterfall on the beams of the bridge.
However, the lock of the chain son. Can not go up.
I volt in terms of the railings that beams, as expected, "Liang, such as lying, in the convex side down, over moss and decorate, spot like dragons", one side hung waterfalls, underneath is a pit. Beams are 67 meters long, the above is not wide Ying Chi, dew changtae, if they really go away in the past ... ... Xu Xia-ke indeed extraordinary. Beams on the back covered with carved stone, Chinese dynasties, I do not know how get to their work.
Downstream shore stood Xu Xia-ke, go with him a souvenir photo. Also be regarded as himself, could not walk up stone of regrets.
From the beams to the top of China there is a half-hour's drive. Winding mountain road in clouds shuttle windows outside the valley is a dense, full of container of rain and fog. Car stopped at the top of the Chinese national forest park entrance. It was sold mist tea, there is a known as the dried vegetables eggplant bamboo shoots.
Less than Chinese top, have not found the rooftop of acting. "Spring view of the sea of clouds, summer tours mountain flowers in autumn to see the sunrise in winter in relation to snow." Now it is spring and early summer, the mountainside of the Rhododendron spent clouds looming. Forest Park, quite a few of the ancient wonder, along the stone steps slowly up the mountain highway is a tall Rhododendron. Unusual azalea pot, however, where the absorption of the alpine azalea chill and rain forest-Ran. In fact, has been faster than the flowering, pink flower full of rainwater, a falls were ulterior motives. Yun-dong go before a green cardigan, saying Gexian tea garden. According to legend, the remains of the Eastern Han dynasty Ge Xuan. Tiantai rich mist tea, some sipping tea on the Spirit Mountain, but also some suction drinking dew point. Go cloud hanging Banbi hole is not easy to climb. Number of far come from a very devout nun climbed up, clap worship, and told us that this is the wise master of the year meditation place. Hands and feet up, and saw only a very narrow crevice, Kan Kan enough for a person to sit down. It was right here, facing the clouds fall from clouds, and then comprehending the vast Yao Ta-chien of the occult?
Here is already high. China Tiantai Mountain Top is the main peak, 1110 meters above sea level. Allegedly owned by cloud-hole before the overlooks to see the eight peaks, layer upon layer Weiguo, similar to the Lotus, "China" means "flower", it said Chinese top. Is subside Yuntao roll, coming and going. Moments, the vast rolling, if the sea knows no boundaries, whitecaps earthshaking; moments, clouds parted and allowed income, mountains, such as washing, the trees are distinctly distant eyes. This is the so-called "China Top go cloud."
Cloud Peak, it delves into the naturalization holes, trees, shadows are immersed in the clouds. Going round to the east an open space, he saw a vast sea of clouds, could not resist another shot a few. Only the intention of overlooking the East China Sea, it seems to be misplaced. After worship opposite Taiwan, was originally a good place to view sunrise, but it is to wait until the autumn season. In turn, the jungle suddenly exposed corner of the concrete pavilion. Original is also available for the Wang Xizhi's "goose" is used. Already moved Kokuseiji authentic, this is a book of rubbings.
Unfortunately, thanks to the military by Taiwan Nazuo peaks become off-limits. Wise master of the local open-air practice Zen, Tai Pak school together, have become impossible. Because lying fake, some soldiers wearing civilian clothes, with his wife or girlfriend to visit, to the mountains here playing, but also to see that Wang Xizhi's handwriting. Obviously much rice and firewood human couple, migraine is to place these away from the hubbub, then added a touch of Happy.
After a child, but to Yuntao raging, right close to worship through Taiwan, but disappeared.
Mid-levels down, he saw in China still maintain top temple. A moment later, late bell, and the monks dressed in apricot Shanzai have the wing from the back came out, Main Hall where lined up to stand. After several rounds of three hundred sang a verse. I do not look at them a long time after class mean, suddenly remembered not as good as the opportunity to sneak "tourist stop" backyard to look.
After the rooms are newly built, the climb up buildings, get a glimpse of those rooms. Is probably the reception room of the class, red carpet, carved mahogany table a few, the walls hung calligraphy and painting, there is no special. Sure enough, no one. A simple little side room, perhaps a monk dormitory, but had locked the door. I saw a room the door opened a seam, gently pushing.
Wow, suddenly the door open, and out of a young monk: "I ask you whom?"
"Ah? I do not who to turn to." I was shocked.
Monk is very polite to say: "Here is not open to visitors."
Had he kept Sorry, quickly ran away. Main Hall inside and evening classes actually not finished. Suddenly nasty's like, that monks do a man hiding in the house ah? Is not something fishy.
Back to the rooftop county is in the evening is still fried rice cakes. The practice of the roof again with a different Xinchang, mushrooms, vegetables, eggs, light and pleasant. Swinging swinging, dark. The way back to the hotel, suddenly and saw the procession, Yangko drum floats. As early as the boss once told me that on the 8th Tiantai Mountain Tourism Cultural Festival on the 9th there is a rehearsal bar. Inevitably squeeze in the crowd look lively. No. 1 car is a handsome flower girl, wearing a body costume, car bodies, "Road is a Pear not, Heng Fa Chuen Road is not, in vain with the red, do not be Dongfeng Qing Wei." After a float is the word goose monument, the children in the hands was worried tube brush.
Oh, terrific, really beautiful in power. Taizhou historical and cultural celebrities, not only the core and Yan Wang Xizhi. There Hanshan local son, Sima Chengzhen, wearing retro, Fang-ju, Wang Xing, Qi Zhou, Qi Zhao south, farther Luo Binwang, Chi Chi, Xu Xia-ke can also be pulled up. On the landscape scenery, Tiantai may fight, but Yandangshan, Qiandaohu these places, but the Tiantai Mountain profound cultural background, with little more than mountains too, otherwise how could the five mountains outside of Taiwan's mountains, said another. Taizhou tourism promotion, or it is not enough to do it.
May 3 Xu Xia-ke in his travel notes, but are also mentioned Tiantai Mountain of the two spots - Hainan and Taiwan and Taoyuan, are that its winding Grand Canyon. Tongbai morning's bus ride of the car, through the sand filled the site Tongbai hydropower is simply a bit bored. Baizhang Hainan and Taiwan is a mountain of a Grand Canyon, 1000 climbed steeply on both sides of the middle mountain stream roaring. The entrance is only a small wooden pavilion, and sat two gatekeepers, tickets are actually as long as the ternary.
At this point, but more than seven in the morning, the morning mist from the valley have not yet dispersed, such as cents illusory. Hainan and Taiwan very many spots, there are rock inscriptions, Golden Peak, fairy seat, saddle stone, cypress Ling, Lu Zu sword, fairy foot tracks, Hainan and Taiwan view of the site, but regrettably only cursory logo on the map at the entrance, where a signpost scenic spots are not , Where is the Where is it.
No, a sizeable. Not far-fetched to those ancient legends. Just look at those mountains, one looked like a phoenix Que Lung Lau. Li Bai showing off: Jasper chain Bamian Shan, the mountain is also the pavement. I swim around Hainan and Taiwan, Tsing Yi, Qi Ye Kai Kihana Fang 9. Hill Bank Road, Wei-Wen jian shui, such as rolling spring thunder. Looked up from time to time, cloud cover around the fog among the mountainous snow, Tsui Ping peaks. A mountain, a section of Plank Road, Youcao shake ups and downs, mountain flowers Dettol. Thin bone Lingding small bridge was high, and Wu Ran across. Suddenly a boulder in front side of the stream, then climb to lay his head to see clouds transitory man, such as waves waves, Prince Joe did not know of a crane, is one that a cloud.
At the end of the valley, there are either side of two waterfalls were washed out into the lake water, Huanzuo Baizhang Lake, sen bath pool. Baizhang lake water potential were much more vigorous, sen bath pool is somewhat graceful, rippling lake with a strange green powder. Coincidentally two body of water are injected into the stream flow Baizhang pit, but was a hill separated from each other pass. Not only unreasonable, even to go around a Hill can not be found. Only from the workers in a tunnel drilled through to go, when suddenly in front of the Baizhang Tan. Xian Tan said bath under the catchy big mouth small, unpredictable, and asked a few mountains of the migrant workers, speech not to mention the name say it has not sen bathing pool. I'd confused.
Backtrack out of the number of visitors into the mountains, and many people holding the camera tripod, Hainan and Taiwan touches on a good place to shoot scenery photos.
Out of Hainan and Taiwan, I do not want to go to the development of attractions, "Taoyuan Chun Xiao." Inquired about the number of farmers who rent the horse, but it is a different speech. Hand gestures for a long time, and finally pointed out to me one way, and from there crosses in the past, some of the mountain to the Taoyuan Village Bali.
The bright morning sun slowly up the mountains of fruit trees, fish ponds, there are bamboo Itabashi, it appears suddenly, and those near my hometown is also resemble those in rural areas. In the first village, I began to ask for directions, the villagers were very polite, patient and listen to me speak Mandarin, to help me look at the map. And then forward to see a Ming Dynasty tombs, Xiang Xian remains be retained under the trees in farms. Tombs behind is a village, an elder sister told me very carefully, and then turn the child went to a post in Taoyuan Village.
But I did not used to mountain walking, and eventually got it wrong Tao children, even gradually bogged down in the bushes. Then from far off to hear someone shouting. A white-haired lady standing in entrance to the village, so that vigor of waving a walking stick at me, motioned me to come down soon. Sister bustling about to go up the original that came with slippers always brings me to the Peak, you can see the Taoyuan Village areas.
Paddy fields, fish ponds, fruit trees. Taoyuan Village, Actually, I'm there are many special, janitor of the old lady did not understand Mandarin, called a young man to. They told me that Sentani in the village behind.
"Taoyuan in Early Spring" has long been known, but so far has not been developed, is said to be quick about it. Noon along the empty Hill Road, only one person I am meandering former. Valley had become even more narrow, and both sides of the mountain, such as embroidery screen, at the foot of Ling Ling streams flowing between the long grass Whitehead, which is melancholy Creek do?
Or roof Immortals story. Early heard a legend, not Buddha, nor is it Tao. Said that when the Eastern Han Dynasty Liu Chen and Ruan Zhao duo from the Yan River, Tiantai Mountain herbs, lost their way, are among the hunger was found floating down the mountain streams where fresh turnip leaves and a cup of flax meal, do not expect from others far. Yanxi-on, met two beautiful fairy. Fairy see them in the hands of the cup, like an old friend like smile asked: "What Musical come late or not?" Liu Sui Ruan duo had formed a couple with two fairy. But the end is a Sin Shu passers-by who, over half a year, and finally because of homesickness, it is necessary parting away. 2 Fairy retain not live, on the other Hsitou melancholy cry. Them to return home, the earth has passed the 10 world.
Do not know if there is not the end of the story. Some people say that was searching for the two re-entrant Tiantai Mountain Fairy, but could not find the original place. But others say the two men did not return after mountain out of wishful thinking on such a big reunion of the.
No matter how many wise men Guo-qing, China top the number of masters, I still think this is the most touching legend of Tiantai Mountain, and not hesitate to put it into his own novel.
Trinidad-phase find when I look back. With who asked, how late or not? Surprisingly, only a human so much to tie him down and negativism, does not fit, Nabu Qi, in the end water Petals, where the vast ears.
Hsitou is a small hydropower station, on duty, cast a glance from the door of my one, ignored. Break a tree back into its own along the streams. Jian shui side, there is a not a, is not yet dug a good Road. Reed separate waist, keep bushes scratched her hands,
"Double Female peak, the Ming-Yu Jian Bian. Upstream on the Sentani Taoyuan."
Feng said that there are pairs of pairs of female stone, such as teenage bun. Looked around, but do not see in what at the hill. Mid-spring of the row of trees where sometimes flash. Occasionally exposed corner of the black and red rocks, you're not looking, I thought wild living of the people. In fact, nobody nobody, only the bird Jojo, I heard they heard, accompanied by spring murmuring, never stopped. Panzhao streams exposed a large stone blocks, crossing to the opposite side, but also to find a path to continue forward.
Just that the Fairy Cave Taoyuan where is it?
There is no way of completely ahead. A rushing waterfall rushing down from the top of a rock, which injected a Qing Ling Ling's body of water in the Gulf. From afar, jian shui has also come from the depths of the mountains even more. How to find the legendary Fairy Cave do? Or simply voted down the wrong path?
The midday sun, shining into the lonely valley. Upstream on the Sentani Taoyuan.
I still miss the original person.
To sit down and Tuo Lexie socks, cold water thorn the soles of the feet. Imagine the moment, that the empty mountains, valleys, wild grass Xianhua, are for me and lonely. So, it is enough.
Found a one in Taoyuan Village farmers, asking them to take me back to town with a motorcycle. Or his first return to drag racing. It was still early, then went to Golden Mount Akagi. Akagi mountain is the south gate of Tiantai Mountain, a great reputation. Outsiders not yet reached the rooftop, you can see much of that piece of the red rock, is a "Akagi-xia." Mountains have a good several Chi Kung Institute, in the believers, under the generous donation, which makes brilliant golden wall. According to legend, the monk Ji Gong is the rooftop, I was the hotel owner also mentioned several times, very proud of.
Climbed halfway up the mountain, a purple rock drops shedding little cold dew. Here there is an inverted view of dilapidated buildings, the question to "Yu-Jing concept." This is known as Taoism "sixth cave heavens and" the. The door a red paper read, "The Millennium Kwu Tung," the words.
View north-east accent, there are two nuns and a more than 50, and one or ten-year-old girl, were wearing black gauze robes. Old Taoist nun pointing visitors to see the words on the wall paper, is nothing more than what the broad kinds of Fukuda. I asked her what is meant by the door that advertising, the old Taoist nun would guide me to see a small shrine next to the door. Looked through the crack in the past, there is a little less than one square-meter cave filled with rocks and rubble and waste cardboard boxes of mineral water.
原来这就是道书所称“天下第六洞天,上清玉平之天”。女仙魏华存,就在这里修道飞升的。
老道姑跟几个上海来的年轻人说来说去,希望他们捐钱。天台山号称“仙山道源”。道教的种种传说和绮想,可以漫漫的数到四千年前,在历历的青峰白云间缠绕。可是司马承祯不在了,桐柏观的遗迹也没有了,走遍天台,只剩下一个可怜兮兮的观宇。那三座涂抹的“天尊”像,神情呆滞,仿佛失去了记忆一样。
上海的游客们捐了十块钱,老道姑扭身出去不再搭理,扔下小道姑一人陪话。过了一会儿上海人走了,老道姑进来,也懒得理我这个单身客人,只是跟小道姑抱怨着,说如今的人好生小气。听着心烦,我也走了出去。所谓的金钱井,普普通通也看不见什么。
总算到了山顶,梁妃塔正在修葺,无甚可观,倒不如在高速公路上远看。休息了一回就下了山。
累得要死,晚上洗澡忽然发现两条胳膊都变红了,脖子也火烧火燎的。因为下雨,对江南的阳光掉以轻心,偷懒不擦防晒霜。 5555555555555555
PS:百丈琼台附近还有南北双阙、铁仙潭、玉珠潭好几处景点,传说纷纭,景致各有千秋,而且没有开发,人迹罕至,高山深潭的想想也很有玉珠潭趣。可惜时间体力有限。要是能在天台多住几天,约上几个同伴一道去探查一番,才是尽兴。唉,究竟不是真正的侠女。
5月4日昨天晚上累极了,翻翻日程,决定今天去临海。
直到长途车离开天台县,才忽然有一点点怅然。梦了这些年的天台山,就这样结束了。是什么感觉,自己也说不清。梦想一时落地为现实,还有些应接不暇。车窗外面青山连绵,笼罩在早晨茫茫的雨雾中,是天台山的余韵。同车一个老人问我是不是到临海去念书的。原来临海城古来就是台州的首府。现在的台州市府搬到了海港椒江,但临海仍然是台州的文化中心,像有百年历史的台州中学之类,——无怪他那样想。
临海车站,是浙江省新建长途车站的统一式样,宽阔的候车厅,落地玻璃幕墙。旅游公交车绕着老城区转了一圈,车里的录像放着有关戚继光、骆宾王的名胜掌故。在揽胜门附近居民区里找了一间旅馆住下,就去登江南长城。
喜欢临海,宁谧的小城在雨中沉思。从北固山走到巾山,绕过了临海的半边城。古城墙俯瞰着老城区,黑白的院落,小窗帘卷,露出一串红蔷薇花。城墙外对着渺渺的灵江,平沙漠漠,掩去了金戈铁马。从北固山到巾山,漫漫长墙,穿起城隍庙,普贤寺,广文祠。方国珍留下的天坛肃穆如昔,空对一天凝滞的断云。望江门上回望,古老的瓮城生了黄花野草,城门下过去一辆三轮平板车,拖着沉甸甸的枇杷和西瓜。
巾山不高,上山却颇费了些时间,走走停停的。临海是个充满了文化记忆的小城。窄窄山道上,一路都是观宇庙堂,有仓颉的香火,还在兴修一个明朝忠臣的祠堂。守门老人允许我进入没开放的祠堂看看,只是小小一间,四壁挂满书字,正中一幅泛黄的绢画是忠臣的小照。山顶上还有公园,操着台州话的当地人,拖家带口的上山来玩儿,喝喝茶,打打牌。透过参天的樟树,隐隐看得见有名的双塔。其实巾山的塔有四座,山脚下龙兴寺、天宁寺还各有一座古塔。龙兴寺里香烟缭绕,供着鉴真。原来这里还是佛学东传的缘起。
下山时,下起了小雨。街面上没了什么人,举着雨伞沿着赤城路漫步,问一问白的黄的枇杷。街边的书店里人倒不少,都在安安静静的看书。小店的门口坐着悠闲的老人,阿姨们絮絮的聊着。临海话也是不懂,比起天台话,却似乎多了一些温雅。赤城路上的小饭店,要了一碗麦虾。下午店里冷清,只我一个客人。中学放假了,店家的小男孩一边磨磨蹭蹭的做作业,一边看电视里的笑傲江湖,令狐冲遇见向问天了。
可是临海的雨让我寂寞了。出来这几天,并没有半点觉出自己的孤单。回到空荡荡的旅馆里,洗了枇杷,一只只剥出粉黄的果肉来,心里忽然好难过。难道因为如此幽谧恬淡的临海,正是一个适宜于成为家园的地方?旅馆的对面是住着人家的小楼,看得见厨房里人影晃动。我放下了窗帘。
5月5日昨晚在旅店里还在犹豫,已到此地,不去名气大大的雁荡山就可惜了,何况返京的车票晚了一天。去吧去吧。今天一早就赶到车站,上了一辆去终点到温州的汽车。
雁荡山在温州北部乐清县境内,还远远不到温州市。可是操着怪异的温州话的车老板娘,一定要收比到温州更贵的车钱,连几个上海游客都没能跟她讲下价来。我看这架式,顿时打消了今晚去温州市里过夜的主意。
104国道翻山越岭,路途遥远。终于和一家三口的上海游客,被卸在了雁荡镇。我们四人跟一个面包车老板讲了半天的价钱,以220元包了这车,玩一天,四个主要景点。
其实对雁荡山没有什么兴趣也没有什么期望,来看看就够了。所以欣然接受这种懒人玩法。方洞、大龙湫、灵岩、灵峰,一处一处走马观花。雁荡山旅游开发显然远远好过天台山,因其如此,也就变成了一个大公园。去过雁荡的人必然知道,那里有很多很多奇特的山峰,每一个山峰都不能幸免的派了一个名字,编了一个故事。听多了,不免觉得那点山川的灵气都被导游的唾沫胶住了。
奇则奇矣,惜乎小家子气。
在很多年以前,雁荡尚不是如此有名,只有两句诗:“雁荡经行云漠漠,龙湫晏坐雨濛濛。”那时的情形想来才是绝美的。于是我忽忽然想到了雁湖,那个深山里的芦苇荡,古代的时候雁荡山因他而得名。不在二灵一湫之间,也许雁湖尚有一番景致。但是既然和人包了车,不能说去哪里就去哪里。真不自在。
天色暗了,看见合掌峰渐渐的变成夫妻峰的样子。好了好了,雁荡山算是来过。
天晚时,灵峰附近的响岭头,各路车还有很多,到温州的,到黄岩的。搭乘一辆小面包,回到台州南部的路桥镇,车站附近找个旅馆睡下,明天回杭州去吧。
5月6日就这样从南到北,又一次穿过了浙江省。浙江的公路交通很不错,
骤然从青山水国间归来,觉得连杭州也不那么美丽了,怎么灰尘这么多呢?
到汽车南站转到汽车北站,我的下一个目的地是南浔镇。位于浙北,湖州境内,离太湖不远。 《藏羚羊手册》上,浙江有三个江南古镇——乌镇、西塘和南浔。今年乌镇和西塘很是热门,广告贴满了杭州城,于是我选了南浔。傍晚的时候下起了雨,车厢里闷热无比。隔了雾水的车窗,看外面的运河、篷船与杨柳河堤。周围坐着的,都是四乡的农人,拿方言聊天。听得半懂不懂。
到南浔已是黄昏,雨越下越大。对着《藏羚羊手册》,却找不到百间楼外面的大道在哪里。总算抓住一个清清秀秀的小女孩,雨中领着我寻到了旅馆。老板娘却是一脸不满:“现在的小孩子,一个人就跑出来,也不管家里人着急。”
安顿下来,擎着伞独自出去逛逛。天黑了,河上的一间间古雅的酒店,还亮着红绿的彩灯,映在雨花朵朵的河面上,真有些“桨声灯影里的秦淮河”的模样。往前却到了新城区,其实和浙江的很多小城镇一样,有不少超市和小店,八九点钟,依然明晃晃的开着门,只是因为雨,生意淡然的样子。
往回走走,不觉就到了浔江桥头,间或驶过一辆摩托。听不清江水的声音。转身一看,那边河上,百间楼沉沉,只有一弯拱桥在雨夜中朦胧。
回到旅馆,发现牛仔裤被雨水湿透了。不觉苦笑,这一夜,一定是晾干不了啦。
5月7日起了个大早,沿着丝业会馆前的河道晃悠过去。好多人赶着上班上学,在路边的早点小摊拎一点蒸饺什么的。我也趁机解决了早饭。有人撑着船,在河面上捞着废纸和烂菜叶。转着转着,到了一个菜场,门洞长廊下面,湿漉漉的鱼虾、青菜,新起锅的炸糕散着油腻腻的香气,满耳听不懂的叫卖讨价声。
南西街德张石铭故居,是南浔古建的菁华,又称“懿德堂”,江南第一巨宅。门扇窗棂上的雕花样式自不用说了。最有意思的是小姐楼上蓝色的玻璃刻花窗户,还有西洋楼的门厅,跳舞厅的花砖地面和柱子。看看那时的有钱人怎样赶时髦。张石铭自己就是一个文化人,古董藏书字画,在故居中处处可见风雅遗迹。只是那绿影森森的芭蕉厅,就颇得“宝鼎茶闲烟尚绿,幽窗棋罢指犹凉”的意境。
而镇东大街的张静江故居,又是另一番气象。张静江是孙中山的赞助者,后来又支持蒋介石,也有女儿跟当时的权贵联姻。虽然早年瘫痪,张静江一生没有停止过对政治的关注。故居里陈列了大量的文书影印本和历史照片,扑面而来是泛黄了却依然风雨萧杀的岁月。一张照片上,看见苍白文气的张静江,坐在竹椅里眺望,那是在天台山绝顶的拜经台。
大厅最是厉害,张謇题的匾额,孙中山书的对联:“满堂花醉三千客,一剑霜寒四十州。”画中一树梅花傲然。其实张静江和张石铭是一家子两兄弟,却有着截然不同的人生,各自撑起南浔的一半华丽沧桑。
走过有名的百间楼,看看乌瓦粉墙,一道道卷洞门下的骑式长街,崎岖不平的石板路上有人骑车过去。五一长假结束,己经没什么游客了,阿姨们趁着雨停,在河边洗衣裳。洪济桥,通津桥,破旧了,生满野草。
南浔特产橘红糕,味道真不怎么样。
中午就到了南浔车站,搭了一辆到嘉兴的过路车,汽车北站附近找了一家小旅馆。
嘉兴位于浙北,旅店老板娘似乎也就是上海阿姨的模样,连讲话也拿着上海腔调。费尽心机也没有把房价砍下来,只好笑笑付钱。
嘉兴也就是粽子和南湖。因为惦记着金庸笔下的烟雨楼,所以在这里停一天。乘公交车到南湖,远远看见一池烟水,湖心岛安安稳稳的漂着。湖边有中共一大会址纪念馆,和烟雨楼捆绑售票。进去溜了一圈出来,乘渡船到了湖心。
仿制的中共一大“红船”泊在岸边,供游人合影。有点意外,只是小小一叶扁舟。想象中的红船比这个大的多,不然怎么载得下这许多纪念呢。
其实烟雨楼亦无特别,甚至根本不是楼,而是一个建筑群。园林不甚秀雅,梁栋不甚精致。本地的婆婆阿姨们带了小孩子来逛公园,嘻笑哭闹不绝于耳。比较有意思的是楼中留有大量的拓本石刻,古往今来多少过路的文人骚客,总要留点什么。其实如今也不大有人要看。看到过王冕、倪瓒这些名字,其他也就忘了。比较惊人的是乾隆御碑竟有四处之多。他老人家三下江南,坐坐烟雨楼,写写打油诗,让人像宝一样供着,才子皇帝嘛。太泛滥了,便不值什么。
正是菱角时节,街边一摊一摊的蒸笼,都是蒸熟了,装在网袋里卖。大兜儿的四元,小兜儿两元。一边吹着湖风,一边把菱角壳儿拗开。说是菱角,南湖菱却是没有角的,囫囵一个。卖菱的人说要比别处的菱角清甜,没觉得。倒是卖的有李子,小而甜,咬一小口,可以把鲜红的汁水全吸出来。
不吃粽子是不可以的,连旅店的老板娘都这样交代。虽然嘉兴粽子早就在北京流行着,有一阵子我还拿它顶替方便面。不过在粽子家乡吃,就着绿豆清粥,似乎味道的确更鲜美一点。
5月8日嘉兴汽车北站,又吃了一个粽子,上了开往上海的车。
已经是第四次到上海,也不去哪里玩,就在同学菲的宿舍里消磨时间。又是请吃饭,又是为我买火车食品。自己折腾了这几日,回头又被人照顾,还真有点不习惯。菲问我,真不去跟你老妈打个招呼? ——其时母亲正在上海,却对我的出游一无所知。算了,不说罢。反正安安全全的回来了。
在北京有很多人不喜欢上海这个城市,去过没去过的,都说着上海人怎样怎样。但我喜欢。只因为衣食住行,上海是最方便的地方。放眼一望,满街都是吃的,——原来也是个没出息的人。
傍晚的时候去看了一眼复旦大学,然后就上了北归的火车,真是累了,足足睡了十四个小时。
Postscript:
回到北京,第一件事情就是洗照片。山清水秀,人人称羡,效果好得我自己都不敢信,当然要先谢过毛毛借给我一个聪明绝顶的傻瓜相机。只是我自己的形象却一塌糊涂,在杭州尚可,越到后来,越是面如死灰。
“璎,你不会没好好吃饭吧?”
我暗笑。又要跑腿,又要省钱,着实辛苦。好在是快乐着的。
有时夜深灯下,抱着相册梦回天台,就有一点似是而非。华顶的云,桃源的水缠在记忆里,真是我足迹所过,还是……当时依然那种远远望着,若即若离的感觉。只不过是这样一个事实,我终于是去过了。
有生之年,还有重逢之日吗?
关于天台山的诗词收集过许多,但只一首,记忆最深:
“蓬阁桃源两处分,人间海上不相闻,一朝琴里悲黄鹤,何日山头理白云。”
作者:shenyingying