Lishui Autumn
A person retreat, it is often put myself in reverie into a tourist Xu Xia-ke-style home, thousands of miles traveled. Every thought is only half of the total do not quite understand, this is to rely on the great explorers survive it? To be placed now, I think perhaps there are only two people can worry-free to travel around the world: one is a very rich person would spend all the money do not have to worry about, like Saudi Arabia's oil, like son, even though a long journey Xiangche beautiful around there will be keep company; There is another that is willing to cosmopolitan, begging the world line of the Lone Ranger. Unfortunately, both are unable to reach their own, the former is far inaccessible, which in turn resent this degradation that. Therefore, Xiasi often end up with a sigh.
But the hearts of the great love of travel, or, sometimes really want to put aside everything and regardless of whether the hearts of their own holy traveled. But about half do not have this courage, the other half is now open to me flat salary just to make the copies I could not bear to give up, I need it to maintain the fragile self-esteem and a sense of vanity. Sometimes feel like a hooked fish, though would like to struggle, but reluctant to open up the mouth piece of bait, was finally nets into one's pocket, can only rely on pressurized oxygen alive, (where the fish farms is one such stall the past) but never see itself in water.
So every chance, still have to walk out, in order to see the mind share of free water, and feel the presence of the body are gills. But the deep evil of those bustling attractions, in my opinion, it is basically the same, and fish ponds. I like the quiet nature of the place, not necessarily a stunning landscapes, the key is where my heart can not fortified, the sun can be drying into my heart, and breeze will soothe my sorrow. I think this is almost a luxury, until a friend introduced me to a lie, only to find there really such a place around.
Lishui name of this place, and her name is commensurate.
Introduce her association who is a photographer friend, he would want to go to collecting folk songs several times a year. Praise and envy from his tone, I feel that this may be a very nice place, in particular, her quiet and less well known, I had a great interest, so on-line view on Ctrip Yeosu Travel information on the evaluation of netizens beyond my expectations, 5-point scale ratings Yeosu was beaten by 4.6 points, need to know Yandang and is known as China's most beautiful countryside - Wuyuan scores only 3.6 points呀! User who made a presentation made me resolve to get around the collection of data preparation process, I suddenly have a feeling: such a quiet beautiful place may be more suitable for two people to gradually appreciate, if the companion is a woman, then it would be more Well!
Thought to myself well, they then someone called for traveling with the women came in several times, unfortunately, has not the candidate. Now think about it, even if there is such a candidate, then I would not go rashly with each other, I am worried that it could be that she interpreted as a conspiracy against the law to trigger a series of unpredictable consequences. So, I turned and I accompanied by a four-year network. I believe that the world is so great that somewhere there must be understanding and support of my women. By the end of August, I put ideas into action: in NetEase's Tourism Forum made a quote: Click here to take trips together, engaged the mature woman can enter here (in the www.ctrip.com also made one: insight extraordinary, choose the distinctive nature) quite frankly that are looking for a female companion, and go and that the old simple but beautiful Tianran place a visit. To tell the truth, although the posts made, but the heart is still some apprehension, is not it too had enjoyed pack days? ! But this fear quickly went apart, because you post a letter Nvwang You have been asked about the plans and itinerary, apparently they are very interested in this program, which encouraged me, indicating they did not treat me like a bad. I moved among them, a beautiful (really beautiful, and I have seen her photo), after reading my article, it actually turns me as her second trip will bring goods (the first one is her the camera, I hope the second piece will be her backpack with items that can stick in her body every day, ha ha, a joke, flat-son you can not criticize me), so I have a feeling both surprised and flattered. But she is more interested in trying to convince me to accompany her to the Southwest Guizhou, consider again and again, it is lack of time, can only have a negative kind of her. Here, I still wish to thank all of you to understand and support my friend to express my sincere gratitude in my heart, you are beautiful and pure!
My final choice is with my neighboring cities, a female, which is mainly taking into account a little easier to join the return trip can be arranged. She also had quite acquainted with the meaning, because she did not QQ, so we can be contacted via EMAIL, I sent her the pictures and travel plans, and also stresses the need to be able to endure hardship, can not have got a little older, not picky eaters, etc., she certainly agreed, but also subtly hinted that I would like to have a better understanding, so I will simply give her a personal reflection: stinking ninth category home birth, no criminal record, (in the foreseeable future of crime-free preparation) beyond ambition, only love travel, sports, photography (technical level of the primary), food, Internet, and some lust, but not obscene. Despite the party eight years in the political Quewu good performance, there is a negative parent look. No traces at the age of 11 had already begun a career, travel-ling has been 26 years, footprint has reached half of China. Finally, she proposed that we who are not going well between each other's color, single-minded to enjoy the beautiful holiday, and thus, the two sides reached a tacit agreement. I am responsible to buy tickets, she was responsible to Shanghai to join. Identify with her, after had been looking for an excuse to ask her to be a picture. Although there is no appearance of the companions made any demands, but in my heart I hope that some of companion superior, but the idea is not to speak out confidently. Later thought, anyway, finalizing its capital, and know how can what? Maybe she will think you are one color to seek it, simply put the hypocrites do in the end bar! Unexpectedly, With this mentality, but to see her after the harvest of a pleasant surprise. Everything Everything is in place, just waiting for Japan to leave the.
September 22 National Day did not expect the train will not buy this.
Drawing on the lessons of tight holiday train tickets, I can say that this is the first time to come and ticket window. Shanghai, 8-day pre-sale tickets in advance, so I went to No. 22 in the morning queue up. "30 K833 votes no!" The people inside told me. K833 is a Shanghai to Wenzhou Express air-conditioned vehicle, 9:00 pm-fa, 5:30 am able to Yeosu, timing is the best one on the bus had. "These nasty guys!" I curse the travel agent: "it would take to buy two tickets it."
"K833 tickets are gone, there is no standing tickets!" Miss impatient: "Only overtime cars in the evening to 9:20 open." She tilted me my one and added a "only sit votes Would you like to? "
Days! How can this way, I was suddenly a little nervous up: "To give me two bar!" Fitted up the first bought then we'll talk, go back and look for friends, to see whether there other ways to be made into. At this point can not be hesitant, maybe一眨眼的工夫, sitting will be no vote. "82!" Vote would be delighted cheap, and only one-third of K833, I quickly handed him the money had been inside to see a ticket machine spit out two tickets to my heart was relieved.
Ticket resolved, but I am still very worried about: how to get to and my companions interpretation? We decided to take trips together in the 21's, before we have not seen a face, we do not have any understanding. Only some of the wording is only through the Yi Meier tone guessing a bit. From 9 pm to 7 am, we have to sit on the train one night, the city's Enchanting the cuties who can stand it do? I decided to give her a call.
"Hello!" The voice of the phone, leisurely, and crunchy, some like the wind chimes sound. I have a brief description of what the situation, pointing out that an overnight train ride will be tiring. After listening to my explanation, it is clear that she felt some hesitation, but still quick decision: "That's the only thing this way, I go, you tell me what to bring some bar!" Her attitude, I could happy, I feel that she would be a good traveling companion, as she introduced the same, is an easy to keep a donkey, can suffer!
Gonglue: Lishui, Jinhua and Wenzhou is located, among them, Jinhua-Wenzhou railway connecting the day stops at the bus stop more hair to the long-distance passenger bus around the (sleeper), there are many. The traffic and travel information can be http://www.inlishui.com/ query, you can also vote by telephone booking return journey, the train :0578-2170699, the old passenger terminal :0578-2155090, the new terminal :0578-2177001.
September 30th day of departure to the timetable, we will place about a place in the Shanghai Railway Station. Sure enough, before the National Day of the train is very tense, from her city to Shanghai, where tickets are sold short, and she had bought a 2-point to Shanghai high-speed bus, but the road has gone smoothly, I continued to receive her short Message: vehicle late; road blocked ... ..... Finally 8:50 am, at the station entrance, I found her: I saw she was wearing a white T-shirt, a pair of jeans, she is exquisitely carved back and shoulders of a black backpack, Retention a long hair, big eyes in appearance, was very fresh and pretty. Train soon to be opened, we have no time to say, hastily ran towards the waiting room.
To sit down and wait in the car, leaving car time is running out, the car seats have been filled, and some people standing around, or rely on the seat back, the car was filled with smoke and sweat . After a brief introduction, I know her name is Nam Fong (Note: South-fang, the name was not her real name, at her request, I will not mention in the travel notes her name, city, occupation, etc. Some personal information about her, nor her photo published on the Internet, please netizens apologize, and to respect and understand her views, in fact, from the travels of everyone she would have considerable knowledge) is also a Mix, but also Special love to eat fruit, some of communication, we have the topic quickly shifted to the run-length arrangements. There are several scenic spots in Lishui, Qingtian stone openings, Yeosu Ming Shan, things rock and Baiyun Mountain, Jingning large riverbank, large-averaged and Folk Village, Songyang the Ruo Liu, Qingyuan's Baishanzu, Longquan in Phoenix Yangshan, there are clouds and the Sin Temple Lake and so on. We decided to go after the first transfer to the Jingning Lishui and then to the Baishanzu or Ruo Liu, Lishui arranged to the last play. Scheme has been set, we started close their eyes meditatively, ready to accept tough night suffering.
Gong Lue: Yeosu is widely distributed across the landscape point to rely on the local bus. OK to plan before, you can take a look at the netizens http://www.ctrip.com/ experiences, everyone there, attractions and walking routes are relatively clear presentation and evaluation.
October 1
6:50 am, the train has finally docked to a Yeosu Station, the next step the pace of some of our stagger, a night of physical exertion is great. Out of the station, (Ladies and gentlemen, here, but none of outbound ticket) found that the eastern suburbs railway station built in Yeosu, to the urban areas there is still a way. Several cars parked on the square in twos and threes to the CMB and the taxi, the conductor and driver were loudly shouted the passengers. We are going to the old station to change trains, so fancy a Beverly taxi. After some haggling to 7 yuan turnover, the driver some frustration, but he understand that we have a very long time after the train arrival, so he was soon sent to the west brings us the old bus station. Here is responsible for Lishui passenger transport between cities and counties within the region. National Day of the reason may be it, a lot of bus Liren to go train Jingning points in only 8:40. I look at the table, only 7:20 am, the station where there is no place to sit, so we came opposite a park ready to rest. Entered the park, south-fang, a bit curious: the park full of steps and half-man-high concrete wall, like a maze, reading a half-day and do not understand why such a design, which could only be understood in Lishui people .
The bus was late to the Jingning only a quarter of an hour out, about 10 minutes later out of the urban area. Gradually, Sandor up. Oujiang quietly practicing as a blue belt lying on the road side, along continue to see farmers in the ground and crafts, mountain at the foot of several head of cattle and sheep from time to time in leisurely nibbling grass. The rice fields of millet have been mature, gray bowed, within sight, eyeful Ju is the Can-gold, it is the city do not see the beautiful countryside, quiet but contend. I look at the South-fang, had been sleepy, she was also the scenery to the fascinated stare of looking out the window. Cars began to enter the mountains, roads become increasingly narrow, increasingly dangerous, the road can be very seductive indeed feel like being in the landscape, we heartily appreciate the masterpiece of nature at night, a lot of fatigue disappear .
Turned a few more in the mountains, the bus crossed a bridge, and finally arrived at 11 Jingning county. Out of the car and immediately go to see the big riverbank (audio technology) frequency, but fortunately, there is a 12:10 China and Pakistan should start, so studying the local appearance, in their seats and put two packets can be regarded as fixed his seat. There are an hour away from the start, we will teach you from the county, by the way for lunch. Jingning county is not large, has completed a half-hour can be, but let us by surprise is that even could not find a decent restaurant for dinner, because only 5,6 big stores are new people to the local held under the wedding package, not a long wedding dress on the road even flashing from time to time, becoming the county seat where a beautiful landscape. In desperation, we found a shop, point of three dishes: braised fish, river, mountain mushroom soup, stir-fried vegetables. Fish Creek, but south-fang trip to Yeosu most want to eat into a dish, I wonder along the way has been kept repeating several times that this has finally fulfill our wishes, her smile Xide flowery. Cooking up quickly, and I looked at the original kind of river fish is very small, slightly larger than the fingers more, one that there are 16, we can just half. "Eat Yeah, eat呀!" Nan-fang is very excited to greet me. See, she is a tutor girl, very conservation. "Well, for our travel, to eat fish!" Should be toast, but the south-fang can not drink, so I do not have any beer, and can only fish when the wine. This could be considered the perfect bar in the one regret. "In the future journey to find friends, you should first ask that she would not drink!" Nan-fang Huai Xiao his face: "This be a lesson learned!" She laughed some cunning, to pretend a very serious question: "Do you want to Let female companions there would be no attempt to drink it? "
Departure time is coming, and we hurried back to the CMB, the car has a lot of people. But we put the package 2 seats no one Quzuo, we can not but sincerely grateful to the pristine mountain. From Jingning to large riverbank to more than two hours, and are used gravel mountain shop, very difficult to use. Could see the car in addition to our other two people do not Mix. Lu is indeed very difficult to go, not so much a highway, might as well be said that a mound up with the mountain paths, car passed by on the belt from large dust. Driving out of town soon, we seem to sink into the Aboriginal. Car is like a snail, in the mountain road circled back and forth with. Looking around us, everywhere are the Mountain and Hill, while Padaoshanding, while another got into the valley, there is simply not tell Old and. Automobile Association, out of fear of an accident, when I started watching the road very carefully, but give way and a night of fatigue, it was not for playing a sleepy daze. I do not know how much time off, a burst of miscellaneous Jiji cuckoo sound woke us, eyes open one to see the car had been stopped. The road in front of a tractor with a headlong into a 2-meter-deep ravine, the only one bucket is also cross the road, the road to the blocked. Tractor next to the Wai a lot of people, with a rope pull, and with a wooden skid, and there is a climb up the ditch, the tractor has played a bracket under the sticks. This is difficult to see the scenes, however, we suddenly sit up and take off the side watching. More than half an hour passed, tractors, or absolutely still, some of our unhappiness. Nam Fong suddenly mushroom cultivation on the street gave birth to real estate interest in a drilling in., and inside the farmer Jiji quack up, farmers did not understand Mandarin, South Fang course, do not know the local language so that both blasted the point heads, and one came to understand it looks like. Here is a lot of mushroom cultivation, they a bag of wood plastic paper rolls up and hit a lot of holes in the above, bacteria, placed inside and then stick a plastic roots resting on the shelf, so that layers of may be playing a lot. I was surprised that the South-fang actually did not know rice, very seriously asked me what lengths the fields. This gives the car a delight and her middle-aged women: "You people of the city ah every day eat not know!" Nan Fang Xing Xingran that some look back and warned me: "not allowed to laugh at me Oh!"
After some twists and turns, the car finally arrives at a large riverbank. It turns out on the riverbank is a high mountain valley, relatively long, four weeks have been surrounded by mountains. Not stop, the conductor brings us to the car was introduced to take things a girl: "She had family hotel, you have to go and see her house!" So, a girl is very enthusiastic, up to help We are carrying his luggage, of course I will not allow the girls to help me, and walked into the opposite of this is called "Mei-feng," a small hotel. The bumps make long-distance nan fung very unhappy, evidently some motion sickness, I need to find a good breakfast room. Upstairs there are two single rooms, an addition to a bed, the only put down a chair, while another slightly better, there is a color TV and large beds. "Small 15, large 25." A girl told me. I think the room was also clean, the bathroom in the corridor at the end, fairly convenient, also some of its meaning: "30 bar, two rooms of 30, we have asked for a." Heard the Southern-fang, in the downstairs added: " We would also like eating in your home呀. "sorry girls a bit, agreed.
Have not yet put away luggage, I would go back to see the South-fang from the bathroom came out, his face pale some single-handedly escorted railing, with a wry smile said to me: "I eat fish at noon then went to the water gone ... ... ... . " Bumps along the way with the original reaction to high altitudes, so that some of the South-fang, motion sickness. See me a little nervous, she quickly added: "Now all right, like the vomit! Us out to see it." On the road, South Fang has once again warned me: "Remember, later to find out Mix and can not find will be carsick girl! "finished, looking dumbfounding me:" This is no way you are, and Who do not ask, before you clear the land? "Her spirit and good again.
Great riverbank is a population of more than 3,000 villages, the village has been built 1200 years, about 1050 meters above sea level. Village north-south direction, there is a creek across from the village were most of the houses still retain a few decades ago or even hundreds of years ago looks like. The main scenic spots on the south in the village less than 2 kilometers. We walked along the river down to less than 10 minutes, came the first spots: Hu bridges and retaining off the bridge. Compared to other parts of the covered bridges in Lishui, it's two bridges, and there is no special place, but some of the bridge Hu surprise, a more than 10 square stage, middle stage actually hanging a painting of Chairman Mao let us no small surprise and felt over the past years is not far away, can not help but reveries up. Forward come to the stage 100 meters, then to a large riverbank scenic features: Time Si Temple and Japanese cedar king, which is a sense of great pride and riverbank people are very proud of. Si Temple, when I read a very Pass, south-fang's Mandarin is very standard, so she picked me on the thorn, saying that I pronounced are not allowed, so that when I think of each said temple, you use instead of the temple, while the south-fang is not in accordance with, and the non-let me read accurately, and so tired I am a sweat. According to Merlin elderly (mentioned below) said that when the temple was originally thought Medvedev ancestral temple, and inside the building is to retain the very integrity of the Song Dynasty wooden structures with a high historical and cultural and scientific values, and later withdrew Temple temple, buildings have been destroyed during the Cultural Revolution a lot, now leaving them. The temple, there is a magic, that is, there has never been spiders, bats nest in the inside, and no mosquitoes, flies, flying, the beam has never accumulated dust, let us marvel. Never expected that this run-down building which still has so many stories. We may go when the hour is late, the administrator to lock the door, and we can only look inside the temple and looked inside a moment say that this is a pity. Temple of the gate is very dilapidated, and the entrance there are two ancient cypress trees, a front and rear guard. Outside the gate there is a Xiao-Po, the famous king on standing on top of Japanese cedar. According to legend, King has been 1500 years of Japanese cedar, its diameter at breast height 4.7 m and a height over 50 meters. Roots Department has a big hole in a head-height, which can make two out. Piercing into the room which torn the whole space, looking upward, directly to see the blue sky. A closer look and found a few inside the cave, like a circular room, can accommodate dozens of others. I do not know the tree wall of fire or people in the days since the wildfires burning incense here, has been burned a coke Heiqu Qu's. Even so, Japanese cedar, Wang is still tenacious Tuzhao Greenwood, covered with large riverbank of the generations of children and grandchildren. Faced with such a divine tree, the South-fang and I both awe, have photographed pray it can also come from distant places for our guests brought the Gospel.
Cryptomeria reading King, left the dinner time is still too early. The shop girl just told us that large riverbank most famous natural landscape - snow riverbank on the south of Temple in the time thought. So the South-fang and my very random walks to the creek's downstream went. Sun has been some West Ramp, the sky blue and transparent blue Jing Si. Species on both sides of the road with a piece of rice, golden millet sprays gray hung, the wind had it in the rice fields turn the layers of a golden waves. Nam Fong and I have some drunk, and I put up a tripod, South-fang, blasted the shot holding the camera for quite a few: "It's beautiful, I want my friends to see what I went to a place! "Then, I saw the South-fang with open arms in the air slowly drawn to a curve, then arms received chest, while her little mouth issued a long" ah ~ ~ ~ ~ ~! "sound, please note that the beginning is the sound of a four, then two voices the end, the end of Ping Sheng. I found that whenever the Southern Fang was impressed by scenery, or happy, she would like to describe the emotion expressed.
Just as I was concentrating on shooting bow, when rice fields, I suddenly felt some neck itch, as if there is something fluffy wind blowing around the neck, I was shocked, and quickly grab it touched empty, looked back and took the hands of the original South-fang a reed in and I playfully: "They look better? Do you give me to adopt one, and I like to take a lot of play!" Heaven, one is enough I've got, one still terrible? Has not so I replied, South Fang has found a new target, extending a jade green onion-like fingers in front of a North Korea that, even after her fingers straight to the top is also bent a beautiful arc: "quick look he doing? "I looked up and saw a hillside not far from there is a farmer labors under the rice fields, he flew walked off threshing machine, the hands of an ear of rice in the full non-stop up and down fly, is the machine to break out of the dust grain and straw around him flying with the sun shining down oblique went so far as his body seems to cover in a golden halo inside extremely vivid. "I'm going to go and see him!" Nan-fang, cried, and then walked quickly walked past. When I received a good camera in the past, they were overwhelmed to see where the South-fang, because she could not find the way up. "Hello, I can look up?" She had to ask the farmer went on: "From there you can up ah?" Farmers are happy to have such a pretty girl is willing to see him on the threshing, so pointing the road. "You first call, I am going." Nam Fong told me. In fact, there is no path, only one of the ridge associated with the trail became a people's past, and even then, farmers there are still planted in rows of soybeans, there would be impossible road, only feel of touch the passed. Nam Fong does not require my help, and when I arrived, she has reached the ground. Objectively speaking, South-Fang is a very stronger girl, this road is basically their own path, even if I do not need to be in single-Fu 1. It made me a bit disappointed at what could have been fully demonstrated at a critical time when a man of courage and helpfulness, but also take the opportunity to go to a pro-Hozawa, and well, these ideas had evaporated. However, people should be contented, when I was complaining about some things date, the South-fang would be said to me: "We want contentment, and these have been very good, and not to think about things that are not practical," the past few days have been The beauty accompanied me along the way there are countless keep returning, I should also satisfied.
After climbing a simple few words, South-fang, obviously more interested in that threshing machines, an eager look. First she turned to me: "Put your cigarettes to give him a bar!" My God, I just mentioned on the train with a pack of cigarettes thing, did not expect her to heart. Effort to take advantage of cigarette, South Fang Picking up a rice threshing machine arrived before finally moving only then step on the machine, but found that the direction to engage in anti-, and rice towards the direction of her station flies over to the one taken by surprise . Farmer laughed, but I did not laugh power because no other I opened my mouth, and she has been moving in my Dengqi his eyes. Farmer walked over, they are standing on the threshing machine to switch, which, under the South-fang, but happily had enough of the addiction, a pair of little hands up and down, had to soar, and a look to satisfy expression. Enjoy playing in a while, we and farmers say goodbye, at which time, South Fang suddenly raised a farmer so I am a big surprise, but afterwards proved to be extremely correct a requirement, but her idea has since become we travel a key element, so I enjoy a lot of observation beyond the pleasure. She asked that the farmer: "We can go to your house at night to sit it?" The farmer a bit surprised it is also very willing to accept our visit, and soon they said set, and also copied a contact phone number. "We have to go take a look at the lives of local people to learn about their customs, okay?" Farewell farmer, she told me. What it really good? That said set, the saying goes, "舍命陪君子", now is just to keep beauty, but also do not need to risk one's life, you also need to mobilize do? I looked at her smiling.
Progress downward along the creek near, we will see a valley, the entrance to the valley there are two cabins, the approach of dusk, the smoke curl has been rising. Taniguchi Department does have a big forest, a few sheep in the woods leisurely nibbling grass. South-fang most like to see such a landscape, not to mention there are lovely lamb. Only to hear her hurray, Quickstep Ben bridge to the other side of the sheep had rushed. Lamb for this uninvited guest, and did not welcome the intention, but hid for her, so that she would like to have combined the idea of a film difficult to achieve. In desperation, the South-fang, had to give up, reluctantly left the woods. But she soon found the outlet direction, see my schadenfreude appearance, she Shouyi Zhi distant valley: "I wanted to take this, there must be heaven, clouds, behind the mountain, there is this rock!" I looked at, to photographed them, the only point of view that is standing in streams where the smile is me. I hasten to cajole her: "We are approaching the valley to see inside, and so dark a moment too late." Heard these words, South-fang not Zainao, and follow me went to the valley.
Into ri, eyes suddenly wide and an original which is a gourd-shaped valley, the entrance is small, it turned out to be a cliff below, a watch is not in the end. The valley below the mountain wind was blowing a force cliff, whistling Cuanxiang Taniguchi, wind, wind, blowing in the cold-called people who lose some of its chills. In the flow stream at the valley when he suddenly fell down one after another fell, and then crowded the outlet from the cliff down. Streams in the fall of Shi You have thrown on the cliff stone scattered to the four weeks have been rising Fengyi Chui valley, into a piece of the falling snow-like mist. This is the most famous big snow riverbank riverbank. Large riverbank arrived in time, there were locals told us that, due to the upper stream repair of a private hydropower station, snowflakes riverbank had been without water, and only when important guests come only put a little water, so the scenic spots actually dying. In casual play within walking distance we can see that between the surprise was originally thought that this is difficult to see a scenic mind happiness is indeed hard to describe. The left side of the cliff there is a path through the bottom, there is a narrow winding path leading to the right side of the virgin forest. We follow the trail to climb down the left side, about half an hour before I came to the bottom. In addition to the two of us, valley, went so far as no others, deserted to make people a bit worried. We enjoy playing for a while, until some distant mountains shadow darkness blurred, was compelled to rush up the valley top, cis-retrace their steps to return to large riverbank village. Along the way there to listen to endless sing bu insects and frogs, are the beauty of the city can not hear a symphony.
Remember these things at night to go to our guests, we go way back to the village soon. Approaching the hotel, I was an old three-story wooden steps to attracted. I saw it Founder style, with the surrounding soil than in one room, like stand out. I had a strong interest in, so went into this yard. Inside there are two women in the busy dinner, we explained to them errand, they are politely brought us to the reception room, and then to assemble a tea. Waiting for the work, we have carefully looked a bit the layout of the house: front and rear hall, two on each wing, the former hall hung with pieces of calligraphy and painting the back wall, the latter hall of the wall is also hanging scroll, stood along the wall circle sofa and coffee table. Gnaw a face to face, give us a house which is scholarly world feeling. Sure enough, so that, after tea, middle-aged woman out of an old man. Not down the stairs, we heard his loud voice: "Haha, yes, where visitors come from it?" Voice hardly ever saw a white-haired Tong Yan, long, and chest of the elderly to be stand in front of us. Old people are very hospitable conversation, we know that he has 85 years of age, called Merlin, i.e. outdoor activities during the war, and later Hermitage home, usually love calligraphy scroll. Described his situation and wall hanging scroll, photograph, it is easy to speculate that it was a very prestigious in the local squire. Even more unusual is that he has been for large monuments riverbank protection and landscape development with a near-fool enthusiasm. He gave us a detailed description of the major riverbank, and when you think of the history of the village temple, the origin of Japanese cedar king of artificial snow riverbank damage suffered pain sad. Referred to the depths of the elderly back in 1935 when we saw the time taken, Wang Si Temple and Japanese cedar, and his hand-drawn pictures of the temple when the three-dimensional thinking map for our description of him and some provinces in order to protect the literati painters inside and outside the large riverbank of the history, culture and natural beauty and campaigned story. Share of the elderly for home deeply moved by the feelings of attachment to us. Shu-wen At this point, I once again express my deep the respectable old blessings and greetings. In view of his studio and the bedroom on the second floor, we shot two photo and the elderly, and he bids farewell.
Merlin talkative old people to make us forget the time. Out the door was suddenly feel hungry stomach has been "cuckoo" call, and go back to hotel was busy in the kitchen get together dinner. Nam Fong born and raised on the mountain where chicken are very interested in, then immediately raised a boss coming. We have a look as soon as perplexing: only big cock, not to be afraid of 5,6 kg weight? The two of us got to deal with it? Hurry to go elsewhere boss caught a nearly 3 kilograms, and half of the Shaotang half of the specialties with the mountains mushrooms, bamboo shoots, stewed, stir-fired vegetables in passing. Chicken burned down, and should be cooked but also for some time. Reminds us of the date and farmers, so I called the phone with him, the farmer is very enthusiastic and immediately went to hotels quoted we came to his home. Nam Fong Road Lala me, motioned me to look at the farmer's clothes, I look closely, he wore a suit, it seems he is very serious. I am a little worried that I do not know will bring inconvenience to them. Half-way we have met Merlin the elderly, the original copy of an address he has given us the above Code was wrong, he is specifically to the hotel and came to us to make corrections. Farmer to see Merlin, we invited him to accompany them along. Old great interest, some of us worry about Daorang stone road at night to go bad, they carefully looked at the road. Who know that elderly people further than both of us faster, seven transfer 8 bend, we came to a mud below the farmer's house on two floor.在这里,我要向这位纯朴的乡民致以歉意,因为我们把他的名字给忘了,我们只能把他的照片一起寄给梅林老先生,希望他能收到。
这是一个温暖的家庭,女主人已经做好了准备,给我们送上了高山的土茶、板栗和自己烘炒的南瓜子。南芳带了两块巧克力,便给了他们家的女儿。小姑娘有点害羞,躲在一旁小心地听我们说话。这个高山茶很特别,除了茶叶味外,还飘散出一种浓郁的草药香味。从茶叶开始,大家很随意的聊着天,气氛融洽自然。作为一个旅游者,我们谈了一些观感,从他们的介绍中我们也对大漈有了更深的了解。半小时很快就过去了,梅林老先生起身告辞,我们也跟着起身,正好顺路把老人送回家。让南芳和我意想不到的是,女主人竟然给我们装了一大包的高山茶,推辞不下,老人代我们收下了礼物。
回到店里,菜已经上桌,远远就闻到了鸡的香味。南芳一声欢呼,冲到桌旁用力地吸了几口气:“嗯,真正的农家土鸡呀!香啊,香啊!”。两人坐下来也不客气,你一筷我一勺地腐败起来,这个味道我也不说了,一句话,无法形容它的鲜美,你就是用8两的大闸蟹来换我也是绝不会答应的。可惜的是鸡还是太大,我们的胃口实在太小,最后还是剩下了一些,让我们很是不舍。席间谈及第二日的安排,考虑到南芳的晕车,我不敢再往更远的山区去了,决定游了景宁大均古镇后即返丽水,顺便把火车票落实一下。好在丽水的风景点很多,到那里都是没有去过的,反正就南芳和我两人,去那里都方便,也很随意。用餐完毕,本应无事各自就寝,偏偏旅馆里的热水器又出了问题。这是一个自制的热水器,外面是用铁皮焊的一个方桶,里面装了两个电热棒,加热到一点程度必须把电源拔下才能使用(这是她们再三强调的,可能是为了安全问题)。按照老板娘的介绍我把插座插上,可等了一个小时水还是纹丝不动,一点也不见热。一检查,发现插座的一只脚已经松动,于是用线绕了一下,这次才洗到了一个热水澡,痛快!
攻略:丽水老车站的车是发往地区内部县市的,到景宁、龙泉、松阳、云和、庆元等地的车都要到这里来乘,新车站的车是发往地区之外的,如到金华等。这里的车有空调大巴、中巴等几种,大巴中途不能上客,中巴则招手即停,可以根据需要而定。从丽水到景宁要翻越高山,可能会有一些高原反应(耳鸣等)。从景宁到大漈有三班车,分别是9:00,12:10和下午2:00;从大漈到景宁也是三班车,是6:00、9:00、15:30。大漈是一个很不错的地方,最好在那里宿一夜,可以看到乡村的暮色和晨曦,当地的土鸡是必须尝尝的,乡民很热情,可以到他们家去体验一下生活。实在不想让你们去打扰梅林老人平静的生活,有缘遇到就问个好吧。到大漈的路非常非常艰苦,要有思想准备!大均也是一定要去看看的古村,有婚俗表演,但我更建议你去村后去看看那里的水和庙,很美。回景宁最好是走一段路,沿途能看到秀丽的山川河谷,还有那座铁索桥,累了招下手自有中巴停下来。到景宁的最好季节是4、5、6月份,这时候的水很大,很急,漂流的时候很刺激。从景宁有大巴直达丽水、云和、龙泉、庆元等地,想到泰顺去看廊桥的话,(景宁和泰顺相邻)这里也有班车发出。
October 2
一夜的火车加上不停的赶路和游玩,南芳看上去已经很疲惫了。明天早上从大漈发出的班车有6:00和9:00两班,不知道南芳能不能起来,想了想还是让她去睡吧,真的太早了把她累坏可就得不偿失了。主意打定,往床上一倒马上就进入了梦乡。暂且不提这一夜好梦,话说到了凌晨,大漈是个乡村,家家养鸡,于是便有公鸡唱明,此起彼伏,煞是好听。睁眼一看已是5点多了,索性起身。看看南芳的房里没有动静,抓起相机便一个人出去观小村之晨了。高山上太阳出的早,朝霞飞满了天。早有人家生起了灶炉,炊烟袅袅升起,还有薄薄的晨雾若有若无的飘渺着,太阳穿过云缝从山头上斜射下来,投在小村的屋面上,被炊烟和晨雾一遮又折射出五颜六色的光彩,且不断随着烟雾游走和变幻着,给小村更添了一层宁静和和谐。心里有些为南芳遗憾,手里却不闲赶紧拍了几张。痴痴迷迷了好一会,到胶卷拍完了才回到旅馆里。南芳还在好睡着,于是又到厨房里要老板娘准备两份早饭。村里已有些动静,有几个贩子是一直在大漈收香菇的,便有一些乡民拿了自己种的香菇来卖,使劲和贩子议着价钱,然后一阵算,让我有点疑惑的是他们成交的时候并不用现金,只是在贩子的本上记一下,不知道他们为什么这么相信这些生意人?村口摆了一个肉摊,案上搁了半片猪,屠夫用刀不断比划着,却不下刀,看得我有些着急了,恨不得上去买他两斤肉。不断有人赶着羊、猪和鸡鸭去放牧,大声吆喝着,也和遇到的村人打着招呼。突然间觉得乡村的生活真好,或许俗到极点便是至雅?
这次南芳起来了。吃完早饭(没想到老板娘煎荷包蛋的水平真是一流!),离发车的时间还早,按惯例,我们在车上放了两个包,南芳拉着我去逛起了古村。村寨确实已有了一些年代。村道上的石板因为被踩得太多,已经有了凹陷和裂缝;大多数的木屋都是灰褐色的或是被烟薰得发亮。没有一家关着门,实际上许多人家根本就没有大门,就那么敞开着。南芳对什么都好奇,什么都想拍下来带回去留念。屋顶上晒着玉米,她拿下来挎在手上,开心的就像是自己种的;园子里种着一些蔬菜和高梁,她钻进去比划着;牛棚里有牛,她也喜欢,因为那屋有特色,结果差点被牛顶了她的屁股;路上有一群小猪,喜的她眉开眼笑,不惜屈蹲芳臀,降格以求,和一群小八戒们留下了难忘的一刻。就那么疯玩着,以至于差点误了班车――他们已经等了我们一会儿了。
中午11:30分,我们回到了景宁。看过回丽水的最晚班次时间后,我们就在车站的一个小卖部寄放了两个大包,可能是很少有人寄包的原因吧,一对小夫妇(也可能是兄妹?)想了好久给我们开出了2元的价钱。从景宁发往大均方向的中巴很多,半小时就有一班,都是途经大均的,回来也一样。也不急着去,在车站旁的一个叫大拇指的小店用了午餐,一碗馄饨,一碗肉丝面,外加炒了一个茄子――出山的时候车上的人给我们介绍当地的茄子是很著名的特产,所以就要了一个。茄子确实不错,只是实在太咸,到最后有些难以入口了。吃完一结帐,呵呵,一共8元钱!出门时正好有一辆中巴发出,我们便把它叫住了。一路上的景色极美,一边是山,一边是水,山叠水绕,沿路更有畲族的土居和廊桥,让人看得目不暇接。
大均是一个坐落在山谷里的小山村,四面环山,山清水秀,风景极其秀美。一条溪流在大均村这里绕了一个270度的大弯,急急向下游奔去。村口矗立着一棵巨大的香樟树,枝繁叶茂,象一把巨大的伞盖把古村笼罩在自己的怀抱中。可惜的是,当地的村民集资在村口造了一所5层的高楼,看上去就象是一个怪物,张牙舞爪,和当地的换环境极不相称。往里走是一条古街,路上铺的都是石板,两旁是当地人开的一些店铺,大多是卖些工艺品、纪念品之类的,另外则是小吃店和小饭店,走得深一些,才能看到几家老店,门面都是用木板做的,多年的风吹雨淋在上面刻下了岁月的痕迹。村尾的地方我们居然还看到了人民大会堂,南芳很好奇,仔细打量了好几眼,只是门紧锁着,锁也有些生锈,我们也打消了进去看看的念头。我们进村的时候,当地的旅行社正在举办畲族的婚俗表演,表演的人和参加的人都在嘻嘻哈哈的演着戏,我们看了一会儿,便悄悄退了出去。村的尽头是一个大河滩,由于当地已多日无雨,水已经很浅,露出了一大滩的鹅卵石。话说到这里,有一个趣事不能不提。当地的农户家家都有自己的茅坑,并且会常常建在一起,一排好几个,倒也很壮观。这种茅坑非常简陋,只是往地下挖一个坑,周围用木板一围,前面留了个半人高的门,坑的一半处铺上几条木板,上方搁一根横档供人坐,而后面就是粪坑了。常说人有三急,我们也不例外。但这个问题在大均却是很严重的,因为我们很可能走不进这种茅坑。我在刚踏进去的时候,木板就翘了一下,让我真担心会失足跌下。我很佩服南芳的适应力,她在整个游程中的表现可以说非常出色,就是面对这样的环境,也能泰然处之,没有一点娇骄之气。
村尾有一个修缮不久的马氏祠堂,里面供奉着一个妇人,由村里的几个老太太轮流当值(据她们说这都是无偿的,每半月一换,由大家自愿报名)。走进庙门,她们便极热心的为我们介绍马氏的故事,但却没有一点索要香火钱的意思。这让我们有些感动,于是我拿出10元钱,请她们代为上香。看着她们虔诚的求拜,心里也暗暗地许了个愿。祠堂的后面还有一座小山,临江面水的一面是很陡的峭壁,山上还有一座观音庙和送子庙,是信男信女求子必到之处。我们顺着老太太的指点,不一会儿就到了送子庙,庙不大,就是一个小屋,放着一个香台。我便和南芳开玩笑,让她好好拜一下,以后可以生对双胞胎。南芳也不甘吃亏,要我也拜一下,求对龙凤胎回去,呵呵大笑着,我们走进了观音庙。庙同样很小,却很精致,上下两层,从两楼的窗口可以看到大均的青山绿水和参天古树,是当地风景的精华所在。这次南芳很认真的拜了几下,很虔诚,阿弥陀佛,愿菩萨保佑这个可爱的姑娘。出庙门向上走便是大均的最高点,从这里可以看到大均全村。南芳突然发现一个绝好角度,便勇敢的走到悬崖边,还把两只脚也搬到了崖石上,让我担心不已,说了许多好话才把这个姑奶奶劝了下来,这时,手里已是一大把汗了。 (南芳你可不要骂我,谁让你爬上去让我担心的呢?)
南芳喜欢水。最好水里再有几条溪鱼可以让她去抓。所以,南芳到了河滩之后,居然光了个脚丫子在水里晃来晃去(这是她吸取了我的教训,过河时,她派我先探路,结果我从石头上滑到了水里,一直到第二天,鞋子都没有干。这让南芳开怀不已,她很得意她的决定,而且为了不履前辙,她干净利落地脱下了鞋子),只不过水里的鱼并不笨,找了半天也没有看到一个影子。但南芳的情绪没有受什么影响,依然兴致勃勃地在水里玩着,谋杀了我大量的胶卷。本来还说好要去漂流的,可是河里的水实在太浅了,把我们的兴致全赶跑了。看看时间还早,我们决定先步行一段路,然后再搭中巴回景宁。
溪流过了大均,河面渐渐开阔起来。走不远,就看到一条铁索桥横空飞架在两山之间。桥很长,大约有一百多米,宽1.5米左右,桥面上铺着一层木板,并不紧凑,从木板之间可以看到下面的河面和沙石。走在上面可以明显感到它的晃动,风吹在身上,感觉人就要飘起来,头重脚轻的象醉酒的人在走路。南芳很害怕,又很兴奋,想把桥摇起来,却不知如何下手。我怕出事,便小心哄着她走回去。走了很远,她还有些依依不舍,不断回头去看。
转过两道山坡,面前出现一大片的桔林。公路上过往的车辆对我们好像很好奇,不管是中巴还是轿车都远远的把喇叭摁的很响,经过我们身边时又把头伸出来看着我们,我猜想也许是这里很少有人走着玩的吧?又或者是我沾了身旁这位美女的光?哈哈,让他们看吧!树上挂满了桔子,一个个象鹅蛋般大,有的还是青的,更多的则已经发黄了,露出诱人的光色。地上也满是桔子,俯首即可捡到许多,有些已经烂了。我们不禁有些奇怪,好好的桔子为什么不采下来却让它烂在地里呢?抵不住新鲜桔子的诱惑,我走进桔林摘了4个大桔子,和南芳边走边尝着。显然南芳对摘桔子也很有兴趣,她看准了一处平地,一猫腰钻进了桔林。正当我准备享受她的劳动成果时,突然听到她一声惊叫,然后一只手高高举着,仓皇逃出了桔林。我绝对是吓了一跳,瞬间可以感觉到浑身的毛孔都竖了起来,我担心桔林里面有蛇,急急向她冲去。她此时真可谓是花容失色,五指箕张:“我抓到了一个坏桔子,噗,一下子就抓进去了”。她把手冲我直晃:“快给我纸巾!”哦,谢天谢地,只是一个烂桔子,我的心放了下来,只要不是蛇就好。我开怀大笑起来,差点让南芳把烂桔子给涂到脸上。一路走走笑笑,转眼间已走了一半,南芳有些累了,于是我们拦了一辆中巴回到了景宁。从景宁回丽水的车很多,而且都是空调大巴,很干净。我们的行程衔接得很顺利,几乎没有等候,就买到了到丽水的最后两张车票。上车之后,心里还在回味着大漈和大均的游历,渐渐的眼有些重了起来,一路无话,两人都打起了瞌睡。
,车厢里突然有一阵骚动,嘲杂声越来越大,我睁开眼睛一看,车不知什么时候停下了,前前后后有看不到底的长龙,我们被堵住了。这是一条很窄的公路,左侧是一条大江,右侧是一面山崖,路的一半正在翻修,剩下的路面仅能供一辆车通行。我看看山崖,看看江,心里明白这不会是一刻两刻的事情了。南芳不知什么时候也醒了,睁着大眼目不转睛的看着路旁的人,脸上倒没有焦急之色。我有些好奇:“车不知要堵多少时间呢,你急不急呀?”,她的回答让我有些意外:“这又不是我们的事情,急也没用,干吗急呢?”一个多小时过去了,仍然看不出有一点松动的迹象。天已经很晚了,说不定要在车上过夜了,我心里嘀咕着。就在大家都有些绝望的时候,车突然动了,谢天谢地,当时的感觉就像是一个沙漠的旅者看到了一片绿洲一样。
回到丽水已是晚上8点多钟了。按照网上朋友们的介绍,我们喊了一部三轮车就直奔新华旅馆而去。这是个小旅馆,网上的朋友们好像很推崇。但我们到的时候已经没有床位了。走出弄堂,看到对面也有住宿的牌子,就进去问了一下,谁知就让我们发现了一处新天地。这是一家叫“金谷宾馆”的酒店,旁边就是莲都区公安局。房间设施不怎么新,但很干净,有热水、卫生间、空调、电话、彩电。经过一番砍价,两个房间被我们100元拿下,相信这里的条件是不会比新华的差了,而价钱却一样。我们很满意,更高兴的是,这里的老板娘可以帮我们买到回上海的卧铺票,于是,定好了5号晚上回上海的车票后,我们高高兴兴的出去腐败了。回来的时候已经很晚了,宾馆的服务员还在等我们,原来她们还为我们准备了一份夜宵――绿豆汤,还是免费的哦。这让我们有些意外,更多的是高兴和感谢。所以,我在这里为她们做一次广告,也希望驴友们到丽水之后有一个好去处。地址:丽水市高岭弄22#(就是肯德基对面的一条弄堂),电话:0578-2130728。金谷宾馆。记住,100元可以住两间房呀!要车票找老板娘哦。顺便也给大家介绍两个吃的好地方,离金谷都很近,一个是叫“彪将军”的小吃广场,价格从3元到8元,价廉物美,该店就在中山路、继光路口,有很大的招牌,一眼就能看到。另一个地方是我们不经意之中发现的,是一个小小的卤味店,供应自制的卤味,很纯、很入味,而且可以只买一点点。我们的南芳小姐什么都想尝尝,于是就买了9样卤品,你知道一共花了多少钱吗? 15.5元!真是把我们美死了,吃了两顿还没有吃光。它和彪将军在一条街上(也是继光街),就在花市那个方向,离路口50米远吧,丽水的特色小吃不多,尝尝这里的卤味或许能杀杀馋虫。
攻略:丽水到景宁、云和的公路正在大修,因此路上经常堵车。所以你的行路计划必须留有余地,不然你很可能会失望或者耽误回程的时间。丽水的夜市很热闹,水果很多,但地方美食好像没有什么可推荐的。晚上可到瓯江边去看看江上渔火。丽水的三轮车很便宜,5元是很高的价钱了,一般都在3元左右,出租车也就是5元左右的行情。旅馆很多,大多数是私人开的,也很干净,可以还价,大家不妨多看几家比较比较。丽水的饭店供应的都是一些家常菜或者是火锅,味道有些辣,吃不来的驴友要先和厨房里打声招呼。这里的菜价很便宜,二十几元就能吃到称心的3菜一汤。治安更是好,我们5天来连吵架都没有见过一次。
10月3日考虑到第三天要上箬寮,要走很长的山路,所以我们把行李压缩了一下,只带了一个包。其余的都寄放在宾馆里,就这样轻装上山了。在车上问好司机,到箬寮可以在一个叫大桥的地方下车换乘进山的中巴,这样可以节省许多时间。到大桥下了车,有些不放心,看到前面有个加油站,就走过去请教。这是个私人加油站,一个中年妇女在那里看着。她很热情的给我们让座,然后帮我们喊下了一辆中巴――直接到箬寮山脚下的,在庆幸自己幸运的同时,我们也真心感谢这些纯朴的当地人民,给了我们很多帮助。当然我们也遇到了一些有趣的村民,比如我们刚上的这辆中巴,我就遇到了一个热情的老农,用我勉强能懂的普通话和我聊起天来。他很热情的向我介绍起箬寮的情况,据他说,箬寮在明清时代即有土匪占山为王,因地势险要而屡攻不下。太平天国时也有一支义军退守山上,其中又有若干首领武艺高强能飞檐走壁,清军对他们也无可奈何,后来还是派来了吴三桂(太平天国时吴三桂早已死了有一百多年了,此处估计老农是张冠李戴了,闹出了关公战秦琼的笑话。这里按原话转录),在山寨里找到了内应才破门而入,最后得以平定。攻陷山寨时在山上一个叫石人矶(又称杀人矶)的地方立了刑场,杀了三天三夜才把义军杀光,真是血流成河,把石头都染红了。后来这片山上长出了漫山的杜鹃,春天时整个山坡都是血红一片,绵延十里,人称十里花海,是箬寮最具特色的胜景。说着说着,老头突然话头一转,很暧昧的告诉我现在箬寮的宾馆里的小姐如何如何漂亮,又会怎么怎么等等。这让我尴尬不已:老头明明看到我和南芳一起同行,却还向我介绍那里的小姐,莫非他还能看出南芳和我只是旅友不成?还没回过神,只见前排的南芳飞快的回过头朝老头瞥了一眼,神色中满是惊讶和不悦。于是,我闭上眼睛开始养神,不再和老头搭话了。
进山的公路沿一条小河而修,有一段路非常难行。虽然中巴可以把我们直接送进山门,但我们还是在一个叫李坑的地方下了车。从这里到山门步行只需15分钟,山里的宾馆价格很高,而这里的农家旅馆就很便宜了,还可以体验一下这里的农家生活(这是南芳强烈要求的)。行前已经和一个从网上查到的农家小旅馆联系妥当,所以中巴把我们直接送到了这家饭店的门口,一个叫周芬娣的女孩子已经等在那里了。一下车,敌不住肚子的抗议,我们决定先吃好饭再谈其他。点了几个菜,其中有一个叫做“跳子”的野味,是山里的一种动物,尝了尝,肉很老,有点咬不动,南芳吃了没几块就吐掉了,她说吃到了一块臭肉,这让我们有些扫兴。匆匆吃完去看房间,她把我们带到了一个两层高的泥木结构的房子里。房子有些特色,外面墙全用黄土垒成,里面则用木头搭建。可能是年代久远的关系,看上去给人一种沧桑的感觉。房子的造型象个回字,当中是一个露天的小天井,山墙外面还搭了一间灶房,小姑娘告诉我们许多游客晚上都在这里自己烤地瓜、玉米吃,这一下子便吊起了我们的胃口。她给我们开了一间套房,开价是30元一人,且不还价。这和网上朋友介绍的10元一人的价格相差甚大,但还是决定住下了,因为周芬娣答应让她的妹妹陪我们去挖野菜、地瓜,到山上拣被山风吹落在山坡上的野山栗。这是令南芳非常动心的内容,很有可能她长这么大连栗子树是什么样的都不知道,而现在却可以到树下捡它的果子了,天知道,一阵风吹过,会不会有栗子被吹落在她的头上?如果晚上把栗子和地瓜放到炉火里一烤,那滋味会如何?不敢想下去了,快快动手吧!
栗子树林在饭店对面的山坡上,当中隔着一条二十多米宽的小河,水不急,但河沟还是很深的,沟里横七竖八的躺着许多石头。小河上有一条绳桥―――三根铁丝绳上扎着一排木板,边上没有扶手,风一吹就会左右晃动,看上去比我们在大均看到的索桥要单薄的多。南芳很勇敢,她要先走过去,但是没有几步,我就看出她已掌握不住重心了,我敢打赌,她现在一定是在嫌自己的腿长得太长,不然她就可以立刻趴在桥面上了!我觉得表现的机会来了,于是快步向桥上冲上去。被我一踩,桥晃的更厉害,南芳尖叫起来。我也觉得有点不对,好像是踩在棉花上一样,轻飘飘的吃不上力。赶紧止住脚步,让南芳慢慢挪到对岸,她的脸已经发白了。上山的路不好找。在田里劳作的一对夫妇很热心的给我们指点了一下,还让他们的孩子带我们上山。于是,4个正在一起玩的大大小小的孩子带着我们走进了栗子树林。这是一个呈60度角的山坡,除了栗子树外,还长着密密麻麻的灌木丛和半人高的杂草。原以为栗子会很好找,弯腰在草丛里拨了半天,南芳才发现了一颗,好一阵欢呼雀跃,但接下去就是颗粒无收了。带着3粒战利品(其中2粒还是孩子们友情赠送给我们的),我们下了山。南芳很喜欢这些孩子,便要和他们合个影。其中一个最小的小男孩(后来我们知道,他就是我们住宿地方的小主人,他有3个姐姐,分别是18、17、16岁,而他只有5岁。周芬娣是他的二姐,负责对外,大姐理内,并负责掌勺),很有趣。一听说拍照片,马上就是一个立正,昂着头,小手认真的贴着自己的腿,挺胸收腹,当然还有一串小鼻涕一抽一抽的,把南芳乐得咯咯直笑。
走下山坡,转弯处有一所民居。南芳又起了拜访的念头,一问,正好是其中一个小女孩的家。小姑娘长得很秀气,剪了一头短发,穿着一件小中装,一笑露出2粒小牙齿。女主人正好在家,但她却不会说普通话,于是南芳又以房子和晒着的玉米为背景和孩子们拍了几张合影,我便和她开玩笑,让她留在这里当一个乡村女教师。正打算告辞,她们家在县城读初中的大女儿回到了家。有了可以交流的人,南芳顿时来了兴致,和大女儿聊起李坑和箬寮的风土人情起来。言谈中,我们获知女孩的父亲就在箬寮山上上班,南芳马上和我商量晚上要再来做客,我当然不会反对,两个女孩子也很高兴,这事就这么定了下来。但南芳的下一个念头却让主人为了难:她想在她们家吃晚饭!从她们口气中,我察觉到她们对饭店老板有些顾虑(这毕竟有抢生意之嫌吗,而饭店老板在当地也是有势力的人家),便婉转地劝阻住了南芳,带着她去挖地瓜了。这个地方的地瓜和我们平时看到的不同,细细长长的,颜色雪白,看上去更像是一根小白萝卜。田里的地瓜长得很茂盛,但要找到地瓜却不容易,因为许多地瓜藤下面都是空穴。一番辛苦后,南芳终于挖到了5个地瓜,摄影留念后,我们把劳动产品放到灶房里,准备晚上烤了作宵夜。
时间还早,我们便想先把晚上的菜点好,然后去看看李坑村的古屋,正巧遇到周芬娣来找我们,她要求我们把房间换一个地方。南芳本就对原来的房子不中意,也就答应去看看再说。这是幢3层的新房子,里面是水泥的毛坯墙面,本是当地村支书的家,因客源渐多,所以被她们家租下来作旅馆分部了。南芳好像更趋向于住在这里,重新谈了一个价钱:15元一个人,事情也就这么定了。说实话,我其实很喜欢那间2层的老屋,我甚至想晚上可以泡杯茶,坐在天井里诗意地数着星星,那种老屋的情调令我很向往。但老屋确实也有许多不方便,而新房里最起码有一个看上去还干净的卫生间,所以我也就顺着南芳的意思―――我打心底里希望能让南芳快乐一些、休息得好一些。
李坑村并不大,零零散散地分布在一个小山坡上,4个孩子一下午一直陪着我们,领着我们不一会儿就兜完了村子。估计土鸡火锅也差不多要好了,我们返回店里去用晚餐。山里天黑的快,说暗就暗下来了。这里的鸡汤没有大漈的鲜美(后来听说鸡都是从城里批来的,怪不得),但比起上海来还是好多了,尤其是火锅里的豆腐味道比较香纯,很对我的胃口。正吃着,南芳发现有些不对,我们要的是整只鸡,可是汤里却找不到她爱吃的鸡肝、鸡心、鸡胗和鸡血。南芳有些不快,叫来了老板娘,老板娘自知理亏,连声说“忘了忘了”。吃着争取到的鸡杂,我不禁有些感慨:看来旅游者真像是一批蝗虫,所到之处,纯朴的民风都会被逐食而光!吃到一半,我们突然发现刚才作客的那家小女孩打着手电在门外怯生生地等着我们。南芳忙招呼她进来,邀请她一起吃点东西。小女孩很不好意思,不肯坐下来,赶紧要往回走:“你们要过桥的时候喊一下我们,我来接你们!”。到她们家必须穿过那座绳桥,女孩子是怕我们晚上出意外特意来接我们的。女孩子的真诚打动了我们,刚才的不快也烟消云散了。速速用完晚餐,带上了两块巧克力,当然还有我的那包烟,我们又开始了夜访民居。女孩子好像一直在家门口张望着,看见我们走出饭店门口,早就晃着电筒等在桥边了。小心过了桥,男主人把我们让进了他们的卧室。房间很大,里面摆着沙发、彩电和电话,看起来这家人家的生活条件在当地还是不错的。主人显然是经过准备的,房间收拾得很干净,一家都穿着整齐的外衣,茶几上放着炒熟的野山栗,还有两个为我们准备的玻璃茶杯。男主人对自己的生活很自豪:有自己的一份田,在箬寮风景区里还打着一份工,每个月都有固定的收入和补贴,这足够让他们家在当地过上让人羡慕的生活了。男主人一边聊,一边热情地招呼我们品尝野山栗和当地的土山茶。山栗很甜、香糯的很,确实和城里的不一样。而那土茶更引起了我们的注意:这是采自山上18种药材的叶茎或者是根块烘晒而成的,有养生键体之功,更可驱除山里的烟瘴和湿寒之气。细细一看,杯中果然有根叶若干,或沉或浮,散发着奇异的清香。南芳很喜欢这种土茶,谨慎表示了希望购买一些回去的想法,男主人爽快答应了,他可能也很高兴有人赏识他的土茶。
男主人对于如何从箬寮的开发大潮中寻找自己的定位有一些自己的想法,我们也热情地从旅游者的角度给了他几点建议和忠告。聊得兴起,他突然提出带我们夜上箬寮,到山下的宾馆区去看看小木屋的夜景。虽然有些出乎我们的意外,但我们还是很快答应了。山上夜里很冷,男主人让女人为我们翻出了两件外套,南芳是一间女主人的外衣,还合身,给我的是一件很新的西装(我们估计很可能是男人的出客服装),南芳忙暗示我,让我换了一件夹克衫。来接我们的小姑娘也吵着要去,看得出,她非常喜欢这个阿姨。行前,女主人拿出了半袋山茶叶,还坚决不肯收下我们付给他们的钱。出门的时候,我还直纳闷:难道南芳有妖法?为什么大家就那么心甘情愿的把东西送给她?这一次我可真是借光不少!
进山只有一条修了不久的碎石路可走。山里的夜色很浓,厚厚的,像有一层黑布密密的笼罩着。调皮的南芳突然关掉了手电筒,以至于我像一下子跌入了黑洞,脚步也忽高忽低起来。过了几分钟,才稍稍看到些黑黑的山影,除了旁边小溪哗哗的流水声,就只听到一大一小两个女孩子咯咯咯开心的笑声。 “小心老虎来把你们吃了!”我吓唬她们。 “不会的,老虎要来了也先吃胖的,肉多的!”南芳这样回答我,这次轮到我没有声音了,因为我比她重40斤。远远的看到一片灯光,心里有一种莫名的兴奋,这时突然明白为什么夜行的人会那么想家了。进山门是要买票的,国庆前是15元一张,国庆时一下子提到了50元一张!幸好带我们来的男主人就在景区里做事,打了个招呼就进去了。转了一个圈,看到的是一个宾馆建筑群和一排小木屋,感觉倒没有什么新奇,可能是这样的场景在城市里见多了。回去的路上,我们和他说好了第二天一早再由他把我们送到山腰的停车场,这样可以抓紧时间,如果运气好的话还可以看到日出和壮观的云海。
回到小饭店,周芬娣一家还在吃饭,我看看表已经十一点了。她们热情的把我们送到住宿的房间,行李也帮我们拿过去了,还带了两瓶热水给我们。凭心而论,除了菜肴的味道一般(价钱倒有些高)、房价比网上介绍要高之外,她们的接待还是很热情和友好的。本来就是在深山里,你也不能要求她们烧出大饭店的菜肴(不然我们也失去进山的意义了),所以我们的心里已经原谅了她们,但愿她们的生意更加兴隆!
但是,一进房间我们就发现了大问题:整个3楼就我们两人住,而我们的两个房间都没有锁或者是插销,这让我们大大吃了一惊。再检查3楼的卫生间,也居然一样没有锁!如果半夜有人上来……….,那后果实在是不堪设想。于是赶紧去找了一根碗口粗的长木棒来到南芳房间,一头顶在门上,一头嵌在窗户的铁栏杆上,用力推了推还算结实,总算解决了一个问题。但卫生间就没有办法了,索性就搬了凳子,坐在过道里替南芳看着门面。总算一切停当可以休息了,又发现南芳房间最里的地方还有两个水泥砌的柜子,少不得又去看看里面放了些什么东西,有没有和什么地方相通。等到可以放心休息时已经是十二点多了。约好早上5点起床,大家才各自安寝。这是我所见过的最简单的客房:一张床、一条被子,一只方凳,其他别无一物。正迷迷糊糊有些入睡,突然听到我的窗户一阵剧烈震动,吓得我一下子跳了起来,以为南芳房间里有什么意外了。正想冲过去看看时,我听到了南芳的声音。原来是南芳还是不放心,让我帮她在外面推一下她的房门,看看有没有顶住。一阵虚惊之后,回到床上时心里寻思夜里要去吓唬南芳一下,又觉这样玩笑开的太大,说不定被南芳认为我真是别有企图,我可是万口莫辩了。没等想好,眼皮早就合拢把我赶入梦乡了。
攻略:许多人上箬寮都到松阳去换车,其实到了松阳还要往回开一段路。大桥是上箬寮的必经之路,所以在大桥下来换车可以省下路费和宝贵的时间(估计有2小时左右)。从丽水到松阳的路上风光绝对旖旎,可同楠溪江相比,所以万万不可瞌睡。从大桥到箬寮需要2小时左右,都是碎石路,比较艰苦。李坑村是上箬寮的必经之路,离箬寮的山门步行约一刻钟左右,村的前后尾各有一家旅馆,食宿费用远比山上低廉。箬寮山门处有中巴可以坐到后山上,可缩短一半上山路程,头班车是7点,大概一小时一班。你也可以选择从前山上山,顺着瀑布沟一直上行,这样时间花费要多一点,不一定赶得上出山的末班车,说不定你还得在山里再呆一夜,为我们的山民再作出一些经济上的贡献。山上的景点分布比较散,要走完没有好体力可不行。上山水要带足,干粮也带一些,上面没有饭店。如非狂热登山族,建议不必去攀箬寮的顶峰,上面除了一块地理标志碑外,就是一些杂草和山上的飞虫,而且路极难行,下山的路很难辨认。下山后可在山门处候车,有车直接发往松阳,末班车好像是15:30,回去时可在大桥处下车,路上有许多中巴回丽水,车票是10.5元。
10月4日第二天凌晨5点,还在熟睡的我被手机唤醒。起来看看南芳的房间,灯已经亮了,她正在收拾我们的行李。想不到的是从一楼到三楼都全部断水,连刷牙都没有水!只好一路走到周家饭店门口,这里有一口大水缸。匆匆刷洗了一下,正好老板也起来了,于是我们把包寄在了他这里,可以减去不少负担,呵呵!
走到向导家里,他已经在等我们了。摩托车上山很快,约6:15左右,我们已经先后来到了山腰上的停车场,上山的车只能开到这里(从山门那里有专门的中巴车接送,每位10元,不过头班车要7:00才开,我们现在看到的日出的风景他们是见不到的)。群山似乎刚刚苏醒过来,纷纷撩去缠绕在身上的细纱。天边的朝霞就象是一个多情的少女看到心仪的情郎,一下子飞红了双颊,垂首低望的时候又让绚丽的头巾遮住了深情的目光。于是太阳终于忍不住掀起了这层多情的面纱,温柔地把金色的初吻映满了朝霞,映满了山谷。我们尽情享受着大自然慷慨的赐予,如不是向导多次催促并用更好看的景色来诱惑我们的话,我们可能是舍不得离开的。爬过一个山坡,回头再看看东边,太阳已有些耀眼,远处的山峦已是清晰可见,天气是出奇的好。爬了一段陡坡之后,山路渐渐好走起来,便不再害怕,又有了观景的念头。也真是运气,才说想看风景,转过一道山弯,前面就出现了一片云海。只是离我们有些远,看过去就象是山谷里一个静静的湖泊。除了我们3人,山路上竟再无一人,仿佛此刻天地只为我们所造。一路细细观赏,听着向导给我们介绍山上的典故,不知不觉中来到了石人矶,也就是在中巴上遇到的老头给我介绍的那个土匪大本营、杀人矶了。举目四望,此处果然险要,前方是一道万仞深崖,仅有一小道贴崖而过,却有一根石梁突冗而出数十米,四壁如削直立而下,深不见底。石梁与我们立处有一小道相连,上有一平台可容数人,向导说这上面就是原先杀人的地方----杀到后来刀刃都锩了,索性就把人往下推,不知有多少英雄豪杰在此被杀呢。听到此处,心里有些默然。向导接着告诉我们,这里的山坡和对面的山坡长满了杜鹃林,绵延数十里。春天花开的时候是漫山遍野的红色,就象山烧起来一样,夺目的很。 “到春天你再来看,你现在看得到的地方都是火红火红的,那才叫好看呢!”他用手指着山坡用力划了一个圆圈。南芳和我对视一眼,彼此心里都在想象着那一片花海会是怎样的壮观夺目。
向导等会儿要带我们去登箬寮1504米高的主峰,从这里上去是没有路可走的,没有他陪同我们根本上不去。趁他有事离开的一会儿工夫,我们也坐在一块大石头上小憩片刻。南芳想打个电话报平安,却发现没有信号。于是她就给我看她朋友以前发给她的短信,其中有许多都是精灵古怪的玩意,如有一封短信全是些标点符号排列而成,定睛一看,竟活生生的是一个八戒的同宗,把我乐的哈哈大笑。更有一些像是绕口令,要用普通话读,还必须读的准确,给你一个念念:“岸湿竹,岸湿竹,岸湿透春竹!”你读通了吗?有没有明白意思呀?嘻嘻哈哈了好一会儿,向导回来了,于是我们继续向山顶挺进。
与刚才上山的路相比,这简直就有点野外生存训练的味道了。因为向导带着我们一头扎进了密密的森林,根本就看不到什么路,必须用手不断拨开横在面前的树枝、灌木丛和杂草,一不小心还会被弹一下。坦白地说,我对登这个山峰没有什么兴趣,但看到南芳兴致很高,再说让她一个女孩子跟着陌生人去钻树林我也不放心,所以还是硬着头皮上了。爬了一段时间,突然发现这里的高原植被特点非常鲜明:到了一定海拔高度,那些大树一下子消失了,只剩下灌木丛放肆地伸展着细弱的枝条;而再上去一点高度,那些灌木丛也消失的无影无踪,只有那些马尾巴草在风中招摇着,除此之外,还有许许多多的飞虫,用烦人的翁翁声提醒着我们它们才是山上的主人。经过一小时的披荆斩棘,我们终于登上了顶峰。极目四望,只见脚下云起雾涌,群山皆已臣伏,不由得心中豪气顿生,望天长啸。向导尚有他事,不能再陪同我们游览,遂与他依依惜别。临走前,他给我们指了另一条下山的小道,可达其他风景点。在山顶流连了一会儿,敌不住飞虫的狂轰烂炸,我们顺着向导给我们指点的小道匆匆下山了。可谁知,这一去竟是差点再也走不出来!
向下走过一片草丛之后,我们进入了灌木林区。由于是朝阳的一面,这里的灌木林长得特别茂盛,林木大多有2人多高,彼此间缠枝绕叶,密密麻麻的就象是一张张的网挂在那里,遮天蔽日的让你分不清东西南北。我们一头撞进了林子,开始还能看到一些路的痕迹(所谓路其实也就是挑树枝间距宽一些的地方钻),走了大约10分钟,前面已无法区分路迹了,想退回去又发现找不到原路了,灌木丛黑鸦鸦地遮住了我们的视线,连阳光都透不进来。就这样,我们失去了方向。摸索着向前再走了一段路,前面出现一个七、八米高的山崖,想到上山的时候我们也曾攀过类似的崖石,我决定下去看看,也许路就在下面。经过多次深呼吸和祈祷之后,我踏出了心惊肉跳的第一步。终于下到了一半,我把脚挪到了一个可以看清前方路况的一块山石上,探头往下一看,头马上大了一圈,心跳加速,呼吸急促:原来前面竟然是一片更深的悬崖,我们在上面看不到的山崖,是我们根本不能攀越的! (我到现在还在庆幸当时没有逞勇,如果我还往下爬的话,那么您现在可能就看不到这篇文章了)。这时南芳倒没有惊慌失措,她把我叫了回去,让我不要冒险。转了几圈之后,我们知道这样下去只会白白消耗提力,于是不再瞎转,决定双方保持一定距离往一个方向搜索。不知过了多少时间,就在我们有些绝望的时候,我突然发现几棵树木上面有被砍伐过的痕迹,这让我们极其振奋:既然被人砍伐过,那么说明这一带有人活动过并走过,下山的小道可能就在附近了。顺着这条痕迹走过去,我们果然再次找到了下山的道路。由于已经走出了灌木林区,小道比较容易辨认,我们的心情变得轻松起来。山坡上长着许多不知名的山果,我一路上给南芳采了一大把红色的小坚果:硬硬的、红红的,很好看,不知南芳有没有把它带回到家里?让我吓一跳的是,调皮的南芳小姐竟然把这果子放到嘴里去咬了一下想尝尝它是什么味道,但很快就吐出来了。就这样一路慢慢的玩下来,竟觉得比平常的登山更刺激有趣…….一个小时之后,我们看到了石板路,也意味着这段惊险历程的结束。
刚才是从后山上去的,所以我们就从前山下山。走出险境,此时我们才突然发现两人居然还没有吃过早饭,而此时连午饭时间都快过了。于是,两人就坐在石阶上翻起了口袋,一共找到巧克力一块,曲奇饼干一包,矿泉水小半瓶。这些东西当然是很快就解决了,但我们还是有点不想动,一方面确实是很累了,另一方面是还在回味刚才的经历。当时情况下我们好像也没有什么害怕,可能是来不及害怕的原因吧?现在想来如果真走不出的话,可能会很危险,说不定要打110了(可山上好像没有信号)。呵呵,不管它了,出来就好。坐了大半天,还是没有看到一个人走过,我们准备向山下出发。南芳很仔细地把饼干袋等杂物收拾进一个塑料袋,我注意到南芳有这种习惯,她每次吃完东西都会把杂物收好而不会随手丢弃,即使是一张糖纸也是这样,她做的也很自然,几次下来让我也觉得这是理所当然的事了——而以前的我不是这样的。
下山的路还算好走,只是往下走了好长时间还是没有遇到一个人,以至于让我们有些怀疑走的路是否正确。好在向导告诉过我,下山的路只有这一条,所以一边欣赏着幽静地山谷,一边慢慢地向山下挪动,不是不想快,而是脚步很重,快不了。走到一个斜坡处,有一条简陋的山土小路可以抄近路,南芳起了童心,非要从这里下不可。我忙着叮嘱她:“这路很滑的噢,你要小心呀,要是摔一跤把裤子摔破了,屁股上露一个洞……”,还没等我说完,南芳果然一个朝天跤,顺着砂土往下滑了一米多,带起了一片尘土。我忙冲下去想把她掺起来,没想到她跌得快爬得也快,一脸不高兴地看着我:“看看,这都是你把我咒的,你要陪我损失!”赶紧清点一下,还好,手没有破,裤子也没有坏,东西也没有丢,只是出了一身汗,终于忍不住哈哈大笑起来,南芳也悻悻地笑了起来。
上山前,当地人曾告诉我们山上有很多野生动物,野兔呀、山牛呀、松鼠呀、麋鹿等什么的都有。可我们在山上转悠了一天,什么动物都没有看着,这让南芳极其失望:“你说山上有那么多动物,可我们一只也没有看到,是不是他们都躲起来了?”我有些好笑,难道你还要他们跑到路上来报到不成?树林这么密,就是他们在里面你也看不到吗!又不忍让她失望,毕竟南芳也只是想看一看而已,就瞎编了几个理由来哄哄她:“他们是不是现在都在睡觉呀?要晚上才出来的喔”。同时开始东张西望起来,希望能帮她找到那怕是一只小松鼠也好。果然不负有心人,我发现了一样野生动物:“南芳,你看,一条蛇!”,前方路上有一条小蛇,细细的还没有一根筷子粗,身上有一条条黄色的小环,正在不紧不慢的游动着。 “那里呀?那里呀?”,南芳很兴奋,瞪着美丽的大眼睛努力寻找着:“你不是在骗我吧?”此前我已经和她开过一个玩笑,往树林里扔了一块石头,然后指着晃动的树枝让她看松鼠。小蛇并不急于游走,它很友好的爬到一块石板上停了下来,有些好奇地看着我们。南芳这次终于看到了:“噢,真的耶,真是一条蛇耶!我看到蛇了,我看到蛇了!”,她非常高兴,一路上还不断提这件事。
终于看到了几个游人,我们看到有4个小姑娘坐在路边休息。看到我们下来有些意外,但很快就打起了招呼:“你们从山上下来呀?这里上去还远不远呀?”,于是我们给她们作了介绍,我有意缩短了时间,而南芳则实事求是的回答了她们,有意思的是,姑娘们一听索性回过头来和我们一起下山了。游人渐渐多起来,有一批人好像是一家子,有老有小的,一幅疲惫不堪的样子。我赶紧告诉她们,如果这样爬上去的话,说不定会累坏,毕竟还有很长的路,现在也是下午了,而她们里面有两个老人和几个小孩,上去了很危险。听从了我们的劝告,她们也回转头来慢慢下山了。南芳有些不解:“刚才你说我把姑娘们吓走了,现在你为什么要把她们吓走呢?”我笑笑:“姑娘们有体力,可以让她们去吃吃苦,这些人里面有老人,体力肯定不行,到山上很危险,在附近看看也就可以了,是不是?”
走着走着,远远的听到了流水的声音。前面是一个瀑布群,水从山上流下来汇聚到这里,又从这里直冲到下面的水潭里。瀑布的崖壁一侧,用钢梁架起了一座栈桥,弯弯曲曲的通往下面山谷。由于是旱季,瀑布没有什么水,我们也无法欣赏到它壮观的场面。但从潭底长年累月被水流冲击而形成的几个大石坑来看,这个瀑布还是很有规模的。我们顺着干枯的河道来到了潭底,很诗意的感受了一下飞流直下三千尺的境界,用泉水洗刷了一天的劳累。嬉笑了一会儿,一路顺着河谷,回到了山门口,同一辆3轮摩托谈好价钱,直接把我们送到了李坑村。取好行李,出山的中巴就停到了门口,到了大桥,我们下来转车回丽水,前面有一辆到丽水的中巴看到我们车出来,早就停在路口等我们了,于是一路极其顺利。回到了金谷宾馆,老板娘已经把我们定的卧铺车票放在总台,南芳和我都放下了心,各自回到给我们准备好的房间休息。
当天晚上,按计划应该是到小吃街去大大腐败一次的,可惜的是,丽水在吃的方面好像没有什么自己的特色,满街都是火锅或是海鲜,这对于我们这些海边大城市来的人来说并没有什么吸引力,大失所望之后,不禁怀念起大漈的鸡汤来,不知何时能再尝到那样的美味?不过丽水的商业倒是很发达,走在街上和在上海没有感觉相差多少,女孩子也都很时髦漂亮,身材很不错。特别是当地的女警察(白天丽水马路上很少看到男警察,都是女警察在执勤),一个比一个漂亮,竟像是美女大集合,在路上一站,英姿飒爽,构成了一道美丽的城市风景线,城市也因此而温馨了许多。当我告诉南芳我的发现时,南芳笑话我是好色之徒:“见色起义,重色轻友!”但她也不得不承认,丽水的女孩子确实是很漂亮。回饭店的时候,我们买了许多水果,南芳和我都很喜欢水果。
车票是5号晚上7点多钟的,按计划,我们当天还应该去东西岩和南明山的,可南芳已经走不动了,看她走路的艰难样子,我知道计划必须取消了。她让我一个人去玩,我觉得没有什么意思,索性也留下来陪陪她吧。睡了一个懒觉后,两个人到小摊上买了一些早点,一路走,一路咬,也不怕路人好奇的看着我们。在丽水的闹市街逛了一圈后,顺便又采购了大量列车上的吃用,光水果就有许多种,边买边笑,真是两只大馋猫!下午时间还早,我们叫上一辆三轮车到欧江边去转了一圈。瓯江就在丽水城边,一条宽大的江滨大道笔直的伸向远方,有许多市民在上面游玩。让南芳后悔不已的是江上竟然有打渔船,而且是晚上到江上去捕捞的,她真恨不得就留在这里晚上跟船出去:江上点点渔火,片片帆影,不时有鱼儿在仓里跃动,美死人了!唉,我们为什么不在3号晚上来江边看看呢?她叹口气,有无限的眷恋。 “不会有十全十美的事,再说留点遗憾有什么不好呢?这也是一种美啊。”我这样劝慰她。
5天的旅程结束了,带着一份好的心情和收获,也带着疲惫的身躯和步伐,列车又载着我们回到了原来的生活。我到上海之后,南芳还有一段路程。分手的时候有一些依依,有一些难舍,5天的同食同行使大家都有了一种牵记和挂念。回来后,有时在坐车的时候,明明知道坐在我身边的不是南芳,但我还是常常会禁不住看看这个陌生的人,在我下意识里已经习惯去看看南芳有没有晕车,是不是在难过了。见惯了城市的繁华,就很向往乡村里的那份宁静。虽然丽水没有那种让人惊艳的绝色,但她有其他地方所没有的恬静和安然。当游人们像过江之鲫那样在景区里拥来拥去;当拍照的时候像挤车一样;当吃饭的时候像冲锋一样时,我是很难理解旅行的意义到底在那里的。当我一张张翻看我们的照片时,旅途中的一幕幕又会清晰的回想起来。这和我在邀请文中所说的旅行是一致的,我们享受了恬静、享受了纯朴的民风、享受了没有人工痕迹的真正的自然,这是我所需要的,是南芳所喜欢的。我们得到了,我们感受到了,我们在心里深深感激那一片乡土,带给我们心灵的震撼和感动。
我们喜欢这片质朴的土地,希望也能让你喜欢。
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作者:11998188