Jun to Gusu see, people do pillow River.
Palace busy little arable land, more bridges Water Alley.
The night market to buy Ling Ou, Chun-ship Qiluo.
Afar moon night, Acacia in the fisherman's song.
This is the Tang Du Xun-he's poem, written in Suzhou. Do not go to work in the city, I only know this poem, the first two sentences, but who write, and I do not know; to wait until the people themselves will soon become a member of Suzhou This has been an important turning point - I am quite It took something Midao the song Cource of poetry, was not carefully studied the well-known authors, the most important thing is, I recite this poem. Because I think that describing Gusu the southern scenery, Cipian the most vivid. For one will have to live there who do not play one of these lines Dier, I felt a like a guy Wutaisancu, Guang Bangzi Xiangche ladies walking in the middle, think it is very ashamed.
Went to play in Suzhou Generally, people will be implementing the following concepts: First, the history is very long, the ancient city has so far in 2500; second garden, the idea of subtlety, looking south and the country second to none; third is refreshing scenery, bridges water people, undying graceful gentle, No. "Oriental Venice." I had earlier traveled to Suzhou, although a few days, but ultimately, this kind of education are also several bruises, but okay, tourism Well, heard of the strike. Wait until the translation done here, but I found a few melody seems to have become in my life everlasting, "Rondo" - officials in the city next to each back to see if they have taken the trouble to repeat these mean, then let me turn out, as the opening to foreign friends. Not too long, for the passage of the recitation, their fluency has greatly exceeded the Du Xun-he's poem, days Kelian Jian. The hearts of many people, especially friends of the north, Suzhou is a typical south. However, she's good, I do not know what is the need for - economic development and peace - are Sang Sang to cut out the high ground for the documented board, delicate and pretty reduced, more and more vulgar. So, hey a Xiaojiabiyu, they pushed to the blocks so obstinately to do the "tofu beauty" or some other beauty. Anyway, yes, Oh, I see whose consciences are moved, therefore, was probably first arrived in those days, I thought, and I'm going to find myself in Suzhou!
Thanks little to work, my interests, increasingly, by those who alleys smoking in the past. This is the time to work, riding an old bike not locked in the pocket to the street beggar, that always makes me feel like a rivers and lakes scattered people. The thought pleases me. Hermitage of the scholar-officials, to grow old and officials, rivers and lakes scattered people, were all that way, and know how to breathe the breath of south, this state, so I was close to the soul and Suzhou.
1 "on the street" is cultivated in Suzhou, a major hobby. And the girls shopping different, they are usually directed at buying things with me, but I was aimless roaming, walking to see, with eyes touch the city. Residential neighborhood in Suzhou's old city, although a one down municipal officials in the planning years, but the new up, are still preserved the original architectural style, housing a high degree, but also made more stringent restrictions. Compared to many other cities, there is no cramped high-rise, there is no surging flow of people, so walk the streets, or camphor-lined parasol, looked up I would see the sky, which more or less have a tranquil mood, though the 2500's the old woman began to jump on the bandwagon, but also "lapin" mean "mask", and kept doing beauty.
Walk up to the Shiquan Street, because I have residence in the vicinity. This is the essence of the street focused on the door with a city bridge to turnip between three very Garden of the hotel, and a wandering child's antique shops, restaurants, bars. 7-8 o'clock in the evening, the plane trees along the street all covered with lights shining on the following bustling tourists, a great clamor. The friends had to rush a suspect who travel here, too, but I play every day here, too, Shiquan Street became my life is indeed a landscape. Occasionally stop, take a look at the boss and wife are 18 countries with foreign languages, and a calculator to bargain with the foreigners, a few rounds later, at the seller "cheap", "cheap" cry, the foreigners were "ok", and then the sale transaction . There are one or two back, it is difficult to see them to communicate, can not help translating a few lines up, after which the shop with a soft thank my Mandarin, and so go when the boss of a boss will be whispered: "a man of small cell Officer A like a great strategy Su? "
There are also a day when business is slack. If it is afternoon, many bosses will move out of chair, put a stool next to son, brew cups of green tea, Yan Yan, and on so comfortably Xie Zhao; also in Chinese chess, but the atmosphere is not tense game while taking the side of the child may be also chatted last few days business. If it is evening, the child on the stool cup was replaced by Jidie dishes, and ultimately, to two glasses of wine, spirits up, and maybe someone will start talking about Wu Wu Fan, Chang, cold-called you surprised. At this time, they did not like the shop's business people, a bit like the son of a family of southern China.
Another place I love to go places Pingjiang, from Shiquan Street north through the city's go-getters from road cut on to the east and west on both sides of folders at the Council between Leighton Road and outside the Beidaihe. If we say that the ancient city of Suzhou is also some "pillow River people," flavor, but also Jiusheng here any more. Several longitudinal cross several small rivers, bluestone pavement streets, every household to residents of a waterfront, this has been one million people constitute the city's most quiet one. Lane there, the name is very interesting, I remember there is "Cao, Xu Hu Lane", "Daru Lane", "Cang Street," ... ... I have more than one occasion to go there in the morning or at dusk, eating stalls on the soybean curd , deep-fried stinky tofu, watching the crowd from work, listening to familiar neighbors, with the very "waxy" in Suzhou, then say hello from time to time also a radio in Pingtan rains.
Attached to these small river outside the Beidaihe, you can still pass Zhou Ji, though not into a deep look inside. Summer, and there will be open to watermelon boat parked in the warehouse under the bridge Street, the neighborhood of the woman who raised a basket, tied with a rope from the bridge down to buy a melon. The ship is called a watermelon Jin Liang, into the basket, and then hanging up. This is a multi-block well, so well, then there is the courtyard, but also can be suspended from the wells of watermelon, half a day after holding up, iced effect of no less than refrigerators. I've eaten a back, a go quintana cool, so the current study is also in Suzhou, then blurted out: "Bing Bing Yin!"
2 shopping stroll more familiar with a lot of blocks. Naturally on to a new pursuit, became the positivist who practices what it preaches. Often see little clues in the book, the former residence of啦, anecdotes啦, can not help but want to go take a look at the field, textual research, a fact that has almost become my yellow fever. And more to find, the more we find that such a small, quiet town, even bottle up so much smoke and dust of history.
The first harvest is the discovery of the former residence of Zhang Taiyan Guoxue master. Zhang Taiyan with the origins of Suzhou, Soochow University, began in the late Qing to the coach (at that time, but were highest in South); the thirties, he whole family to settle in Suzhou, until the death in 1936. At that time, brother-resident artist Chang Ta-chien Nets Garden, Suzhou, they Zhang Taiyan painted like a patriotic old Ma Xiangbo - the founder of my alma mater, Fudan University - title to Chen Zi-ang's poem:
"Neither the front nor the ancients, who, after not see to read a heaven and earth has passed, sorry but Tixia alone."
At first I do not know these stories. Is purely fortuitous, hot, go swimming, in the Jinfan Road and Stadium Road, seen here in a brick building, a little gray old, but different. She felt very much like it has been impressed. Then a while to source a number of books on the Suzhou, one day all of a sudden everything related to read, very excited, turned out that the house is the former residence of Zhang Tai-yan! So specifically to go there once.
Then, after an equally enthusiastic colleagues Enlightenment from the Road, in Suzhou, 10 in the campus of the Song Shang Jian remnants of "flower Shi Gang." "Water Margin" There are Yang Shigang an escort to spend, please do not think that this is fiction novelist in history, but they do have being to. The Royal Court in the Northern Song Dynasty ban "Yin Yue" is used in the past shipped from Suzhou Taihu Dan. Kaifeng, the Jin was only later that the broken, Song Shi migrated to the south, Gen Yue in the fighting would cease to exist. Unexpectedly, this piece of Taihu Dan had gone through was removed and went back to Suzhou. A 90's afternoon, in a quiet campus, the face of a Taihu Dan, imagine a generation dynasty, dying out, such a stream of consciousness, must have only occurred in such a graceful cities.
I am most imaginative one, and from the North Tower Park, Shi-Cheng Zhang's Tablet of Merits. Shi-Cheng Zhang Yan Fanzi originally Taizhou, in the Yuan Dynasty in the separatist party turmoil possessing rich in Suzhou. He is said to People's Idea of the quite generous, so the emperor destroy him, the slain whom battled it out, breaking the city is very tragic situation. My mother thought that a family surnamed Zhang, who remember the old people say that early on moved from Suzhou to avoid chaos, and Could it be that they are crossing the river to the north of side of the Shi-Cheng Zhang? Privately I am quite proud of their association culminated in a while, but no grounds for this kind of thing can test, in addition to a small drinking wine, with live analysis of a brother of Ronaldinho back, basically looking for someone no longer expressed in necessary.
3 "In the morning bag of water, water, afternoon, foreskin," which is said to Suzhou, a typical description of old idle comfort. Today, lost to domestic water heaters as early bath, and even tea, nor is it easily to find in the street - the only still preserved in their gardens. Moreover, as the Humble Administrator's Garden, Lingering Garden of tea have been afraid to go, visitors more than it kept from your side too, which makes a bit like the bubble tea, anti-like at the roadside rest stop's.
I often go to the lotus garden and garden art, are deep in the Old Street area, in addition to the nearby patrons, few other people. Lotus Park, from my point closer to each weekend to go see a monthly total of the old man who took his own cup, coasted coasted into the play the door. Tea house where there is a very elegant name, "City Song thatched cottage," walked "Luozhilozhi" wooden staircase to the second floor to pick a window of the sitting, garden Yellowstone rockery, flowers and trees, and is therefore able to see a broadly. If you lack, and lying on the table squint a sensation, Qingfeng Xu years, half awake, and must have Zhuang butterfly dream, but also much better than this. A major feature of garden art is hard to find, the first two to go back, I Jinchanggou labyrinth of alleys have come nearly full 20 minutes. However, the benefits of this trouble is waiting for you into the garden, field of vision Dayton opened, would be no reason to feel better. Water, tea is the one facing the bay. Fine when a long row of windows open, diffuse sunlight come in, take a look at the water red carp swimming, water waves with as though he is the one inside, music does not think of returning home.
If it is late spring, the weather is good, and that tea do not need to go and find the open space directly on the sun. Shi Quan Street, Suzhou Hotel, Suzhou University, the Department of lawns and lawn are a good choice. Especially the latter, where is the site of Soochow University, blue red brick bell tower, Ludwig-tang, was washed away by time was a bit turbulent, but still could not conceal a beautiful; plus Lvyin Yin lawn, blue sky, white cloud, much like a painting, people think of Cezanne and full of sunny Provence. My original is not very lack of progress in the university students taking part in this piece of grass, but added a lot of reading Rimbaud and Verlaine's poems, good and bad stealing busy busy, make up the homework does count.
Chen Kuo though I like, but if the criticism of them can only be called uphold the fun, much less the joy of everyone. New Year full of joy inside, the most participatory Suzhou very localized, "rolling immortal." From one of the Eight Immortals Lu Chun-yang's birthday, April 14 lunar calendar. Day he is said to be the embodiment of beggars, hawkers, mixed in with the crowd among the tradition of helping relieve people, if they can roll to his side, will be stained Xian Qi, best of luck. "Rolling immortal," the apex of excitement at night. Busy day, people have to empty out, god temple is located along the stone path lights, peak and visitors crowd, everyone seems to be a squeeze in order to come here to Jiqu, beaming with joy, even if accidentally bumped a bit, step on the foot, and no one complained of. The most energetically is the small traders who have entrusted the welfare of Lu Tung-pin, Nendi coming months than the temple is also hot days, those who eat, drink, use, play, and all children placed a slip of the streets, a wave of a flow wave Musella before, wait until near the middle of the night, their stalls, were spray beating countless times, has sold very small indeed. Exposure to the crowd, I would think that if I were god, I might envy the people of Suzhou, lead an easy life flies moisture did not say, but also did not forget a year to own a happy chance. Suzhou Jiangnan, really know how to treat themselves.
4 Choi-chi, fasting sugar, Zhu Hongxing face, yellow days, the source of the bakery, meat sauces Lu Gao Jian, Song Helou squirrel mandarin fish ... ... to become members of the public for half a year in Suzhou, for visiting students, friends and relatives, I have been able to eloquently to talk about food in Suzhou, and then watched them very satisfied look of longing. Food is too refined ah.
Speaking of southern food, I actually think the sweet of the points, although these fish, meat, ah, ah, do so delicate, I really love, but that is to endure this "sweet." For this reason, these long-established name point I have been classified as the "official history" category, to the number of times after all limited. But the rivers and lakes scattered, did not, not studied under unofficial but can not be justified.
Deep-fried stinky tofu is a have to say one. Although some people suspected that it has the smell, but I was like, tight. And rare, less than a shop inside the food, the love of the streets, the school next to the heads of those stalls. The afternoon of deep-fried tofu is sold, I would usually be 12, so that bosses are fried, I learned the most elegant to a Suzhou dialect, "the perfume come ... ..." It's that practice out. Unfortunately, many of the same street snacks, often a move into the shop, has had no features to speak of.
There are also seasonal Hung Ling, Lian Peng, started before the end of hot days. Very often the woman who is a fishing village to town to sell Tam, ending up clever, they are wearing clothes printed on his head side Pazi, with the Red Hair Band wearing a typical dress Chuanniang, one looked there the impulse to buy. Hung Ling bought a can be eaten raw, Nen Nen, and sweet for a little water; Lianpeng struggling to eat up a little, it is necessary to peel out of a lotus seed one to eat, the more suitable for two people. I have bought a Lian Peng sitting in the street stripping, one looked up to see across the street is also Chine, a peel, a happy mouth, one after another send seeds gently into the past. I suddenly see, Lian Peng had to be so to eat.
As for the food restaurants, in addition to those time-honored, Ka remaining Square, Bachelor Street, opened a lot. However, or local cuisine, plus parts of flavor, nothing special. However, there is a relative to get Wang, "Water Village House", where the shrimp cook in soy do great. Shrimp is a jump, and sprinkled with a special sauce, nausea and a half soldier's pay, and taste fresh smoothness, taste and beauty. There is a collection of winter lamb. Collection of books near the Taihu Lake, a town famous for lamb, is said to smell of mutton is relatively small. When winter comes, the city which bears flowers of a lot of Yang Rouguan, middle of the night, pushing the door and went to a bowl of Sheep Soup, 12 lamb, finished touch of the forehead of the Wei Han, Ta Yue and go, how can a Shuangzi terrible.
Five of the southern spring rain. Sometimes several days, rustling down the entire city may have cast a layer of veil. I just started this season two people walking. Through Shiquan Street, after a Street North bridge to bridge, is an alley and into a left to go is to pay the Secretary-hole Lane, and then move forward is to Suzhou, 10 on the door. The Zi Tenghua alley opened, into the alley at night is a hint of floral, light rain as fine as hair, walked out on the feeling of not only to the street, under a whitening of light, water and gas waft a group forward, do not see how far the roadway Yingyingchuochuo. I say this is not the rain, she said "fan Lu", "What is dew fans?", "Is the fog." I touch his head, shaving board inch wet, like early morning grass. Wisteria flowers then drifting again, and hanging over the stone pavement two do not see real presence. My heart, like a drop of water falling on rice paper, in the darkness inside of opened. This is my most beautiful memories of Suzhou.
Shen Cong-wen, a writer I admired, when infatuation Cheung Siu and hard to catch you sweetheart is in Suzhou. He has this a love letter: "... ... let me, a cup of sweet bars countryman." Encouraged by this story, I'm so want a cup of rum. However, I am not a "Border Town" the author is certainly not to drink rum into, with the Suzhou finally be different. I have completely gone, no longer get rid of the Yangtze River with nostalgia.
Author: eric_cj