Solidification of history ------- Zhouzhuang, Tongli Travels
Zhouzhuang (a) hot journey
Early August 2001, early one morning, I and my wife, Xiao-Dan from Shanghai to Zhouzhuang, because we did not find the car directly to Zhouzhuang, Suzhou, only first, and then sub-bus to Zhouzhuang.
It just happens train, there is no air-conditioning, carriage is very hot, although the traffic is far less than during the Spring Festival, but because it is summer's sake, then the train where the air is very turbid, and a mixture of a variety of people, and a variety of The taste, suffocating. Xiao-Dan wrote: After never take this train, I shared his feelings. Fortunately, just one hour only, otherwise, my sense of smell since then may fail.
Finally the train started, along the way are green and lush paddy fields, in the middle mixed with large tracts of Hawthorn, it is also lotus blossom season, white or red lotus in the green of the lotus leaf is like a pair of eye-opening experience. In the green fields, the sparse distribution of a number of white walls and black tiles of the houses, is especially pronounced, which is south of the characteristics of ... ....
An hour later, the train arrived in Suzhou (Suzhou me because many times, and now it has not much passion or surprise). Get off, we rushed to Zhouzhuang to find the car, tickets purchased, is 11:20, and each 14 per hour. Taking advantage of half an hour there, we think of the nearby shopping malls to avoid the summer, but she is not an air-conditioned, and disappointed. Casual snacks bought a point returned to the car, after all, air-conditioned呀! More comfortable than staying outside, I asked the conductor to Zhouzhuang long will it take, she said: a half hours.
Car not open, seats are full, and leave the station later, also on a lot of people along the way, severe overloading, thanks to air conditioning okay. On board a 17, eight years old girl, Yi Shangju whispered one of the haughty disregard of others Mei Wan, we turn a blind eye meditatively, I do not know how long before, woke up and found her still Jicha non-stop, and she in the end wanted to show his eloquence terrible, or learned, which can not be ascertained, but I feel that her quarrel is definitely a players, anyone who married her, and it can be said: the house, unfortunately, ah!
(B) Zhouzhuang - First Jiangnan Water Village 13:00, vehicles to Zhouzhuang, not get off, there are a lot of tricycle around the door, watching their dark skin, sweating, just like Rickshaw. Get off, we bought a Chang Zhouzhuang map, is "study" of the occasion, a driver said to us: The tricycle to take us to the entrance of Zhouzhuang, fare 5 yuan, there is 1 km route? After we have discussed and decided to take his car.
On the bus, we asked him how much tickets Zhouzhuang, he said 60 yuan per person, but he has a way to send us to go inside, two people a total of 50, we are one, pleasantly surprised and decided to do so. Along the way, both sides of the weeping willows, the ancient buildings, rivers and lakes have been gradually reflect the charm. To the entrance near a Santana sent us over the ticket office. It was launch time after midnight, our stomachs are hungry, they have a large roadside restaurant (Old Town Restaurant) casually eat something, then rushed to the alley rivers and lakes go.
After a narrow alley, suddenly see the light, greet my eyes is the small bridge, flowing water; black tiles, white walls; stone paths, overhanging willows ... ..., a unique map of the Yangtze River Delta. Old Bridge is called the first full-power bridge, the bridge many tourists want to find the location photography is not easy, but the beauty in front of me ignore the existence of other tourists.
Zhouzhuang is very ancient, bridge entirely by rocks piled in the stone cracks also grow a few plants, filling the town's vicissitudes; road paved with stones mixed bricks made in many places has been bumpy, but also long - the moss, to witness the years of squandered; architectural invariably the black tiles and white walls, accompanied by exquisite flower windows, old doors to the world tell the story yesterday. Zhouzhuang - First Jiangnan Water Village, a well-deserved.
Zhouzhuang every bridge, every road, every one houses are distributed out of the Chinese nation's traditional culture and atmosphere, as if a sudden you back to the past ... ....
Went to the bridge, a more open view, the river on both sides of the reflection of an ancient weeping willow and that the residential areas, river, the boat and from the shuttle, bustling. Suzhou is the Venice of the East has often been said, I think that is more similar to Zhouzhuang. The scenery here is indeed beautiful, and my clumsy pen and ink really do not know how to describe.
On the bridge stood for a moment, we are the bridge to go down along the Clam River Street, the street there are many small restaurants, all with similar display of river fish, lake mussels, I really regret it, why not just come in to eat, watch Fresh hop hop kept trained on live fish and that a huge lake mussels (foot of a fast food lunch box size), I deeply regret it.
(3) Anti-have been smart, I deeply regret it is mistaken, when an Aunt up and we say that for us as tour guides talk about the history of Zhouzhuang. Zhouzhuang is not, another map, should be absolutely no problem browsing their own, although the history and listen to it anyway, so bargain, finally 20. Talk about a good price, she asked where our tickets, I would say that we are entering into the past, but also spent 50 of money. She said: This is fooled, because the ticket gates in general do not have to spend money, tickets can only by virtue of some specific attractions to visit, such as: Shen hall, Zhang hall, the whole Temple, etc. 10 spots, I heard this, he stunned silence ! Anti been clever clever wrong, dear friends, remember, remember, to Zhouzhuang must Mai Menpiao, alas! Also paid a 50 fee. Also be described as: live and learn. A fait accompli, there is no way, of course, will not affect how we feel.
(D) fine old buildings did not go very far on to the famous Double Bridge (WHO Tokuhashi, Wing Bridge), the World may bridge the bridge hole, square hole Wing Bridge Bridge 2 Bridge, 90-degree angle intersection exist side by side. The Bridge (non-Jiangdong Joe 2) why the famous, the original in 1984, US-based painter Chen Yifei will Shuangqiaoshan coming up painting title "hometown memories," Occidental Petroleum, chairman of Oman in the United States was. Hamer Gallery Show out of the same year in November, Hammer's visit to China, this painting as a gift to Deng Xiaoping, and thus became famous. Double Bridge near the tourists, such as fairs in general, did not find a better camera angles, but can not be compared with the painters of Shuangqiaoshan, because it is full of the sons of the homeland sentimentally attached.
After Shuangqiao, and then further to a rich laid down on the Onkyo, that Aunt said: Ren Zhu Rongji and Vice Mayor of Shanghai that year, he had visited Zhouzhuang, after the bridge and the bridge stood for some time, then connected to three, has now become the Prime Minister, after which Zhouzhuang people will call this bridge is promoted bridge. I think that this title is also Zhouzhuang were a tribute to Premier Zhu.
Through rich Onkyo, came the most famous Hall of Shen Shen Shen Manzo Hall is the former homes of wealthy Ming Dynasty. Of course, not without looking, but it would Maimen Piao, after consulting with small-Dan, or buy a ticket bar.
1 Shen Jin-hall door, and sure enough style, a wide off the courtyard, a great care of the gate, the yard nine ileum, as if into the maze, a variety of Ming and Qing Hua windows, crafted fine Ming and Qing Dynasties furniture, even the garden ground, gravel, paved France are very particular about; everywhere exquisiteness, luxury everywhere Jinxian year. Although I have never been to Grand View Garden, but if a first-year Granny Liu Shen Hall trip, and perhaps will be replaced by allusions Granny Liu Jin Shen Hall. At this moment we feel "book to use when Fanghen Shao," the face of the present is in such fine works of art, no way to write about, ashamed! Shame! Li Bai people, "When there's some King Road, not" just because "Cui Hao, a poem on top." And I really Caishuxueqian, alas! Regrettably, even! If you want a taste of one in order to feel, or in person to trip better. In the main hall Chen Ting, festooned with celebrity inscriptions, of which I only remember architect IM Pei wrote - Zhouzhuang is a national treasure.
Shen come out from the hall, then went to the Office of Zhang and Zhang Shen hall hall much smaller than that, there is no less impressive, but the buildings are also fine, but also in the backyard there is a "private port", which is then the typical "sedan chair from the door forward, ship at home too, "also said that it is from wealthy family, Zhang hall was not very big, but it is very chic. Did not expect it in this small place and the small Dan got separated, I hastened out of the gate, guides Aunt said: "She has just come out before, do not see you, go see you." So I would like to go looking for her, but the check-in quickly stopped me, I told him that the process is to not let me go, I am worried and told him: "My wife and I wear the same shirt, and, like zebra ... .... " He heard the music, and let me go in, one went and found a small Dan looked in a hurry, I quickly go up, holding her hand, she cry a little anxious, and I said to her: All Zhouzhuang Only two zebras do not get lost ... ..., she breaks through his tears.
(E) the Office of San Mao, a restaurant from Zhang out of a few rich Onkyo, along the River a row of old tea houses (or small shops) within walking distance slow line, wafting in front of a sudden I saw one banner - Sanmao restaurant, so I deliberately go to see the original of the Taiwan travel writer San Mao to Zhouzhuang had tea here, and later she died, in order to commemorate her, on the renamed "San Mao tea house." It seems pretty boss will do business, both commemorative significance, but also commercial value, the most important thing is royalty-free. However, we also want to go to another town - the same years, therefore, did not go in tea, and now in retrospect, really come to regret. Next time again, we must go and had teas, listen to a storytelling, or a "Kou Chun-Xiao Su", and that feeling should be good.
(Vi) the charming town and then move forward, there is a row of ancient pier railing, very familiar, tour guides Aunt said: When Zhang Yimou's "Shanghai Triad, Triad" was filmed here ... .... Oh! No wonder, I see.
We follow the River, and slowly the audience to experience the kind of fishing village atmosphere, quaint atmosphere. Zhouzhuang bridge many (a total of more than 20 seats), taken alone, it is neither grand nor spectacular, but it was the town's buildings, streams, and all the town form a contrast was especially harmonious. The town's buildings because of water become a Reiki, but also because bridges have become a coherent, overall, if the town is missing bridge, will become fragmented, if the bridge is not a small town, maybe just a bunch of The old crumbling Duanbi because of bridge belongs only to a small town, but an essential part of the town bridge, which is harmony and beauty.
The town is very charming, history here seems to solidification of the (fixed cells), like Tao pen retreat from the world, no matter how the outside changes, there are still quiet, an insular state of mind, peaceful, recreation;
Really beautiful ... ...
(Vii) reminiscing along the way, I try to leave it with the camera poetically scenery. Shihoubuzao look, and respect, and a boatman bargain (because we want to go to Wu Pengchuan go to the same years), and finally finalized for the 120. In the board, we bought a few cans of beer, a "Manzo shoes" (Manzo, Shen said to be the year to entertain the guests a specialty - pork elbow, of course, can not be Shen Manzo's elbow), see the That's golden elbows halogen, indeed attractive, but also can make up about lunch regret.
Has been followed by boatman came to a small harbor, which parked a lot of boats, boatman, said: "Because the weather is too hot now, and in general do not fishing, they attract some tourists to supplement their incomes, the business is not bad."
Boat launch, and walk in that narrow, winding river, I out of the cabin and saw the river on the farm are covered with crops, and in front of the hometown of Lu Xun's landscape and are very similar, and occasionally still see some kids the river playing in the water, fish, fishing anodonta ... .... I remember the year when people look at community theater when Xun brothers, and a bunch of kids everywhere Feng Wan, to crop the ground Zhai someone's home burned to eat the soybean, after eating the "evidence" (pods) all thrown into the river ... ...; and Run-earth ways to bird, dig nest, arrest cicada ... .... Childhood on you innumerable, looking back to their own too, is still talked about. Today's kids (at least in the city's children) and a lot less like fun, to accompany them grow is the variety of classes, interest classes (and probably only interested in parents only, deplorable!), But also a wide variety of electronic games, maybe that is the society is progressing.
Gradually, the water becomes open up, in addition to occasionally see some reed marshes and Hawthorn, barely see the shore, boatman told us it was white clam lake, their main fishing areas. As close to dusk, sunset and open the distant lake, reminds me of Wang Bo "Tengwanggexu", once said. Unfortunately, the immediate Cijing "sees Laxia but not the lone duck; despite long days, but less relaxed and" ... ..., the slightest regret.
Just as I was in the contemplation of the occasion, the small-Dan to show me the beer, though I do not like to drink, but there is alcohol add to the fun at the moment but adding to the somewhat poetic and expansively. I have a beer, big mouth and chew, "Manzo shoes" (tastes great), while browsing the lake scenery, there are people with love beside, how idealistic romantic.
Unknowingly drank two cans of beer, really a bit tipsy feeling.
At the moment I think of Cao Cao, I remember when Tso Kung Emperor in order to make princes, waving one million troops under the south, people wishing to dominate the world, in the Red Cliff and the Sun, Liu Dajun confrontation. Enemy at the Gates, Tso Kung Looking at the vast river, Wang lance write poetry, and his poem reads:
When the songs of the wine life is geometry?
For example, morning dew, As Time Goes By.
... ...
How bold, how high-spirited.
Of course, I absolutely can not be compared with Kung, but really at this moment a little bit "on wine when the song" feeling, the biggest difference is that there are millions of Kung army behind, and my Dan and boatman behind only a small two on the momentum is (alas! it simply does not, ha ha!!), a difference of half a million times.
In this quiet lake, with a loved one were pan-boat, and if so, "strayed into the depths of ... ... Ouhua startled a beach Oulu," is another state of mind, although not the high-spirited and Tso Kung, but warm and romantic. However, there boatman in the side, it is not convenient.
So I was like, when Xie Fei Huang Ju, bringing a moonlight night, in this and Sanwuzhiji, jug of wine, a tea and boating on the lake and spoke freely, on the best the world.
... ...
After a trying to get to, we have entered a relatively large river, I asked the boatman What is this river boatman said: This is the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal, from us in this direction is to Suzhou, Beijing, and in the opposite direction is to Hangzhou. Ah! I sighed, originally the Grand Canal, have long heard of its name, I have little Dan said: "The emperor is the will to enjoy, in order to avoid the carriage of the bumps, actually came up with this idea years, fortunately he was only like Hangzhou, and if he like is in Guangzhou, the problem would be bigger (哈哈). I asked Xiao-Dan, if you are the emperor, how would you do? She did not answer and they are therefore asked me, I said: I still fly bar (哈哈), she laugh, I Lai.
Zhouzhuang out from filling the heads of all's deep feelings for times past, lingering, as if I go back to the history of various dynasties, this is my experience an unprecedented, even if there is no such feeling in Beijing. No wonder the south out of genius, chances are I would stay here for three months, but also be able to write about, such as "snow and crows flying together, saliva of the nose the same color ... ...."
Zhouzhuang, the United States! Mami!
Tongli (1) quiet about the same years after a one-hour voyage to a non-terminal as terminal, boatman told us that: The above is a road, one will go up, where you can live in the same hotel. We had to pay money, and the boatman farewell.
Walking on the road trying to get to, or did not see the same boatman said, where hotels, this time, there is a minibus parked in front of us, the sale of tickets asked us where to go, we say go to the same hotel where, she said that the car bar, is still far yet, and each one of money. We then got in a short while went to (although car quickly, but if you walk, I am afraid have 20 minutes or more), with the Lane Guest House on the roadside, but the door closed, and the rusty, it seems No business has been a long time, and no way, we are back to the roadside, and so on in the past the car, It was only in a "face" and the driver told us that: with the Village Hotel is no longer open for business, here from the Tongli Water Village there is still a world? We can only spend money to take his five cars into the town, go.
To the same town, the sky gradually darkened, the town deserted, no tourists, most of the shops have closed, and we boarded a tricycle to find accommodation, tricycle brings us to the Bridge (with the Village one of the famous attractions than the Shuangqiaoshan Zhouzhuang more than a bridge) near to a family-style hotel - Lv Inn, through bargaining, with a bathroom suite is 110 yuan / day, we look at the sky a little late and a bit tired, lived down.
(B) the delicious fresh lake bathed, we went to eat, we walked along the road just the center of town, in order to compensate for the regret at noon, there is a lake mussels specifically looking for a restaurant, called a lake mussels boiled tofu, one I could not utter their places of fish and a green vegetables. Lake clam up, and taste delicious, tofu absorbs the flavor of the Lake mussels, special fresh; compared with steamed garlic in Guangdong somewhat different approach next time be sure to try the practice of Guangdong. Fish is braised, very fragrant; compared to the mid-day meal that much better, so if you have the time to Zhouzhuang to play, do not to large restaurant meals, but also expensive and there is no local characteristics.
After dinner was at eight, we bought a few peaches on the back to the hotel, the town is quiet, no street lights, shop does not open the door, Heidengxiahuo, almost can not find the back way, people feel as if not a tourist place, because you fear Jingde.
(C) with the scenery inside the next morning, we went out to see Bridge of the landscape, always felt the lack of a number of rivers and lakes of the charm, so they slowly walk along the river, but he is not as good as Zhouzhuang, Tongli bridge most of them are new and road repair, and a bit less than Zhouzhuang vicissitudes; bridge and the bridge is not much difference in the landscape, but Zhouzhuang is some scenery in the bridge to the bridge is another some landscape, there is a ups and downs, high and low near and far different feeling; with the inside lane on both sides of the river, houses there is no reflection in the river, but also less a sub-landscape. Nevertheless, we do not have a lot of disappointed because it was the same with the ri-ri, it is not Zhouzhuang, this may be its characteristics, as like what is the matter of opinion.
Trying to get away and we have quite an open pier, looking for a stone bench and sat down to Xieyi Xia, watching the quiet river, the shore and floating white foam mixed with some plastic bags across the parking of a few Article Wu Pengchuan ... .... What he saw how a little familiar, ah! Think of it, which is described by Ye Shengtao old gentleman - "over-collected 35 fighting" inside "Wansheng meters of" in Hebu head (and later proven, when Mr. Ye Lao described in the book "Wansheng meters of" in Suzhou The other rivers and lakes - Luzhi). Then the boat floating between the foam and leaves, as well as an old hat that a friend dissatisfaction noise sound harsh meters of where the boss ... ...; as if all this happened here yesterday, although only a casual visitor the immediate and calm the residents ... ...
(D) Concentric get within walking distance before we continue, you come to a narrow alley, alley there is a very romantic name - concentric get, which is the same inside an attraction, tourists many of my views and small-Dan worn " hand, "the culture of the word T-shirt, attracted a lot of eyes, and I for my" masterpiece "and proud, in all mortal beings, the one with his hand to find those who, in addition to fate I can not tell other reasons.
Concentric get very narrow, if two people want to walk side by side in the past, unless it is accompanied by your spouse (usually a friend not so close, except for Valentine's), otherwise only a front and rear forward. Concentric get whether such name, I did not go to known, is what I understand.
(E) First Jiangnan restaurant get through the mind, and we go forward along the Ming and Qing Street, to find that special taste in front of a building, walked near a look, there is a large plaque, a letter to - southern section a restaurant, in order to make up for yesterday "San Mao, a restaurant for" regret, we decided to go have tea. A great restaurant, divided into two levels, all wood structure, decorated with the plain square table, we have to find a window on the second floor location to sit down to a pot of "Biluochun," I look at the table meal card, Tea House in the late Ming and early Qing described above already exist, there are 300 years of history ... .... At this time, the restaurants are sounded crisp flute - "Gusu line", the original restaurant had someone play music, as long as visitors come tea, they played music. What he saw and the ears Jiangnan minor, really I do not know the year in Jinxi yes ... ....
A long time, long time, we having left the departure.
Come along when the road we have come to the station, sit back Suzhou car, before returning to Shanghai.
Shanghai Bund came back from Suzhou, eaten dinner, we went to Shanghai's famous Bund, from the subway out, along the Nanjing Road has been walking along the road most of a century ago, the building, but also through the peace that has historical Hotels.
Guolemalu went to the Bund, Chen Yi's statue stands in a very eye-catching position, because he was the first mayor of New China in Shanghai. Exalted Bund, there may be the world's highest population densities in the world.
Western classical architecture on the Bund in the lights shine, look more prominent, as if to reproduce the ten-mile ocean bustling market, a hundred years ago, the building that now is still the most beautiful in Shanghai, the Bund remains a symbol of Shanghai (Today, the Bund buildings have all been occupied by large consortia, have hung their names, regardless of how the building was tall, majestic, but the most engaging and a hundred years ago the remains of the building).
I am a man five years ago, when walking alone in the outer beach, I said: I have to and my beloved people to come here once. Today, finally were answered, and we walk outside the beach, there are many couples and tourists, there are hawkers selling drinks. The Bund, is really a very romantic place, although many people, but it does not make you feel awkward or embarrassed, without disturbing each other.
We lean on a railing overlooking the other side of Pudong, Oriental Pearl TV Tower and Jinmao Tower embraced really bustling Shanghai, Pudong has developed very rapidly ... ... really great Shanghai.
As we can see God the occasion of a sudden it began to heavy rain, everyone rush to escape, the sun umbrella hawkers selling drinks have become the best place sheltering, it is tightly "together", we come from all over the country In order to come together common goals; seemed to rally around the Party Central Committee headed by Jiang Zemin in general ... .... It seems I Youxiang party a huge step forward.
An unexpected rain, but also added some romance, if not become a La Tangji, but the clothes are wet, and we smile to, light rain, we walk aimlessly, looking at a hundred years ago ten-mile foreign field, a hundred years After Pudong, the city's downtown feel and experience the Bund, a romantic ... ....
Bund lights stayed off after the departure of dismay we.
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