Memory in Suzhou, invariably the Ming and Qing gardens, soft waxy soft and fresh in the sweet language of "hot dish" and even the legendary Suzhou men, are often funded in the back garden may miss the class, sang folk songs and more : "married marry Suzhou Lang, a package of dumplings a packet of sugar", would the never too sweet, Probably even more than Shanghai Yin love obedient men do.
But this time searching for plate door, then closed government offices, and Maple iron bell only reminds me of the Spring and Autumn period of go-getters, Mo Ye, "male and female sword," Bai Ju-yi remembered a poem that goes, "the territory of 100,000, soldiers, by 5000," and only see Suzhou as a "sword township" and "city", after the flames Cangsang the other side.
■ Sunset Pan Gate 2,500 years ago, the king lu order to station troops grain, hegemony princes, would like to build a power and prestige in all directions of the capital. So Wu Zixu ordered to "taste the water relative to soil," Geological Survey hydrology, which lasted six years, built a "lu cities." From then on, like the ancient city of Suzhou took root, although China's civil war, and fail repeatedly destroyed building, but it never moved the location of the 20th century --- even 50 years, Suzhou city wall city wall with Beijing, as a result of "obstructing traffic" who were large-scale demolition, but after intermittent robbery site, is still today, Suzhou City's "city of industry."
Pan Gate is the "lu largest city," one of the eight gates, external Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal and Wujiang city, is the hub of the ancient city of the south-west land and water, but also rare in today's world the preservation of integrity "of land and water city gate": From the land and sea can be town. The most specific is that it is located on land within and outside the door two heavy doors, the middle of the formation of barbican, once to lure the enemy in depth, you can close the gate, "Wengzhongzhuobie"; water-based double-lock the door, in addition to the same land "urn warships in the designated "They also prevent floods.
Into the tray door not far from auspicious light tower, according to legend is the mother of the Three Kingdoms period of Sun Quan Yan was built for the newspaper, originally located at Puji Monastery (Song renamed Ruiguang Monastery), the oldest pagoda in Suzhou, he found a pearl in the tower Po relic buildings, Bristol paper gold book "Lotus Sutra" and other national-level cultural relics. It was only when the Monastery was devastated, and ancient tower still retained down.
Pan Gate ancient city wall, Ruiguang tower made in recent years, "the entire old as a whole," a comprehensive renovation and reconstruction of a four-Replica, Wu-phase Temple Fangsheng Chi and exquisite garden courtyard, but I feel a bit satisfied that the This is somewhat "photographic film base" flavor.
So I like the "games are played," is deliberately picked a sunset after midnight, boarded Wu Bridge, ring looking plate doors, Ruiguang tower (all three, but also collectively known as "Pan Gate 3 King").
Wu Bridge is "Pan Gate Scenic Area" in the most flavor of the "true antique", was built in the Northern Song Dynasty, from the bridge on both sides to the top of each 50 steps, is the highest of the ancient Suzhou, the existing stone arch bridge, which allows vessels to navigate on the canal unfettered, but also so that people outside the door no longer need to ferry into the dish.
As the sun sets, and replace bridge, one side of the plate Bloody Xiaguang gate tower, as if to hear Kim Ji-phase cleaning of the crisp sound; one side are the layers of Daiwa auspicious light after the tower seems to appear before God to pray peace will clear air ; body, the quiet moat flowing for centuries, as always, rise and fall; behind an alley from the bridge side cited Wangshen Chu, Daiwa powder wall on both sides of the Gusu homes, people here for generations interest-bearing. Occasionally, someone推着自行车passed the bridge from the Wu, leisurely, history and fashion have nothing to do with him, he just --- to go home.
"War and Peace" in this moment, freeze-frame in which the status of taste, only the virtual reality can be realized.
■ vicissitudes Xumen to see the ancient Suzhou city wall, had to go to Xumen.
Xu Men is a pretty "interesting" places: Xumen also known as "Kou Xu Men" because lu Gusu from the door out of the boarding platform, which is named after. Is also the first land and water gates, to the Northern Song Lu door mound Cyprus, and the only remaining Watergate; Kinbyo south, the Suzhou city was looted after the walls have burned, "where the ground was little more than a moment's monument left"; less than a hundred years , reconstruction of the Southern Song Dynasty city wall again Junting than ever before, but was canceled Xumen; southern Binh Dinh early Yuan Dynasty, the Yuan cavalry soldiers suspected the walls get in the way, Suzhou city wall again be demolished; By the Yuan Dynasty, in order to defense against Yuan Yijun attack, and then build the walls, due to close by the Gusu Station was dug under the inscription, "Xu Men," the word of the stones, so restored Xumen, but only built a landing door, is not to build a water gate to prevent flooding of Taihu Lake into the city; Soon Zhang Shicheng occupied the city of Suzhou, reinforcement of the walls, but also added outside the Barbican in the city. In Suzhou, the preparation time, in order to facilitate traffic, in addition to all the disk outside the Barbican are both dismantled.
I came to look for Xumen south wall in front of a old man, pointing in front of the city, said: "That's the south, that part is probably the south wall, right?" May only be explained, because the whole wall is only 65 repair Xumen meters long.
Originally, the last century 50's when the big split wall, South wall that is "doomed," but things are kind of hangs in the balance: Nancheng wall is then Guanting, in the Ming and Qing Zhao Ting welcome and send off when the officials first water port, an officer in the abandoned here on the bridge, is also a Man You type prominence. But by the end of the dynasty, after the opening of the Shanghai-Nanjing railway, now no longer official government offices can be accessed by a number of open timber merchants, bamboo line outside a living person to raft bamboo raft floating in the moat outside Xu fooled warehouse, but also support from within and outside the city walls squatter settlements, buildings settle down, so that less than half a century, the South wall was Yanyanshishi to cover up, which had been forgotten, survived the disintegration of the difficulty.
Looking at the current time when the Xumen hidden walls, I was almost laughing: Here's walls, surprisingly enough, Yuan Ming and Qing dynasties generations of masonry miscellaneous puzzle, and as if wearing a tattered Baina Yi, laughing looking at the ignorance of this world and desolation.
Out Xumen, "leisurely read of Heaven and Earth," a sense of tragedy suddenly disappeared: here was built according to the riverside park next government offices. It does not have the usual charming gardens of Suzhou and carved, is particularly fresh and Graceful ease. Few visitors, a number of after-school children playing on the walls, some elderly, and occasionally a few pairs of couples lined rooms in the Green Ping walk past Guanting surface water, then placed a stone bench on the corridor is a tea, naps, quiet land.
From the Warring States Period, Wu Zixu Xumen tower hanging in the head "to view more Conquest of Wu," until Song Wang An-shih sigh, "1000 fishing boat lights autumn things go a leaf boat Muyu Bay", to the Ming and Qing Dynasties, "merchants gathered, five-miscellaneous office" till now, the walls are now hidden undone and become clear Yau leisure, the Xumen vicissitudes of life like her part a black humor drama.
■ middle of the night the three famous monasteries and Cold Mountain Temple, Suzhou, lingyansi highest mountains, may Wu Gong remains of help; Saionji majestic temples, and to 500 Ocean known as life-like; However, the most famous and most visitors, it is only to 9 acres of Cold Mountain Temple.
To the Cold Mountain Temple can not read poems, Zhang's "Midnight Bells" is the most well-known. We must listen to the Cold Mountain Temple bell, "to listen to the bell, to worry every year reunion in the maple." Cold Mountain Temple New Year's Eve to listen to the bell is already Suzhou folk. Day visitors can not hear the bell, but it will still have to mouth a great bronze bell on the touch briefly on one.
To the Cold Mountain Temple, but also to "pray," Han Shan and Keepers. "Picking Up the former Han Shan asked, saying: earth slander me, bully me, insult me, laugh at me, light me, cheap me, bad me, lie to me, how to Treatment or Down? Picking goes: just tolerate him, let him, by him, to avoid He, anti-him, respect him, do not care for him, and then a few years until you let me see him. "2 Shiseng a great impact on the development of Zen poetry, while the Han Shan's" Han Shan body ", multi-purpose village words spoken, popular, easy to to understand, but also machine interest will occur. This verse has been spread to the late Qing Dynasty, "Dream of Red Mansions" in the "good of the song" on the extension of this-bodied; to the last century in Japan, the United States popular.
I was down on the Cold Mountain Temple. It is said that during the day but also on the Fengqiao charge equal to 5 million "tickets" to the night, all free of naturally. Though not enter Hanshan Temple, but I would like to visit the Jiangcun bridge, maple and iron bells off, as long as there is a yellow background on the line of gables to do.
Iron bell off in the maple Qiaotu, also known as The Maple watch tower, is still out Jiajing governor Censor Fabian built to fight against Japanese pirates. Maple is about 70 meters away from the bridge Emura, cross the Grand Canal was built, the bridge River have to stop for a berth. Night, there are no tourists, no hawkers selling souvenirs, everything seemed so quiet, then the antique flavor, this is the "The Maple Bridge at Night" in mood.
If it is not a taxi waiting, I will be a long time to sit on the stone stairs and perhaps recite a poem by Han Shan: "Yao Yao Han Shan Road, yo cold stream shore. Jojo often birds, nobody, no one. Moraine moraine wind side of the body have snow accumulation. zhao zhao not see Japan, but each spring I do not know. "
(This article had "Shen," the newspaper published)
Author: 66,622,959
