City is a yin and yang in nature. This view is generated, mostly French-speaking terms with the then poor and the suffering of his career back on, however, uses the staff to sum up a city's temperament, inverted without losing simplicity. The problem is every time with friends, mention this argument, and always want an example of. Negative hard to say, are typical in many places south; let me hesitant is the representative of the positive list, just like the Chinese players, looking at a lot of Nadechushou not many, there are always far-fetched. Stanch the tide, and only been a major counterparts after the winter, spent two days, all of a sudden heart had the sustaining power - the leader in positive, that is him!
Before saying a big year Beijing cold, early morning 6 am more than that, once experienced the. Of the night has not yet opened, heavy gas-moon, the wind whistling in the dark obscurity of hovering, So we have curled. Regret did not wear a hat, not wait for the ears as the paper-folded pocket. Jumped into an early shift whistle to a bus, bound for the city. To the red square, the one found near the hotel, or the early 80s look like, Heart happy. Moreover, inside the heating furnace of Health, coal fire burned Wang Wang, and a smoke and then a tin tube. By this and so surrounded by the heat, as early as the courage to go out without a lift knee. Would also like to what, stay there bar.
Wu had a moment in the room only rally his forces out, just before 8 o'clock, and the heavens big bright. No steps are red squares, no one cold winter morning, looking around a circle, as usual, is something not high not low achievements in construction, less glamorous facade, dotted with signs, advertisements, looking at other cities in the north and non - different. Have to withdraw, but the eye falls on the sculpture in front of a bow mounted on my "sticklers" Start attack, could not help looking over in the past about that. This is a statue of King Wuling of Zhao Hu Fu riding and shooting, base on the text, the summary said that the origins of the Datong - says that its the beginning of construction of the city, has been dating back to the time of his reign Extension Jiang Zhijun.
Zhao early Warring States Period, once very weak. "Weiweijiuzhao," Wei was very much the background is a cow, the use of force against Zhao, which carry not live, only to go Banjiu Bing Qi. And the location and relatively middle Zhao, Wei 4 weeks apart outside the adversary waited for opportunities, the so-called "four wars within a country" is overwhelmed by a very long time. Ascended the throne until the King Wuling of Zhao, to promote riding and shooting Hu Fu, Zhao's military strength, only a qualitative leap, was finally able to hands-on repair of the surrounding old rival, and in particular the nomadic tribes of North-breaking Lin Hu, Loufan wide acceptance of Shanxi, northern Hebei Province of land, as if the country has been great boldness of vision. Datong, was in this military expansion, the cavalry clank into the historical sight ... ...
Sculpture stands in the cold, seemed tall. Because it would have a fresh impression of the general square. Although I can not evaluate their artistic quality, but at least it is a form of reverence for his ancestors, which is enough; than those who take iron, iron plating film was shiny, twisted into a braided, and lofty moral of the works, like the so-called "take-off , "" Endeavor "or similar, this" Hu Fu riding and shooting "To really much the same as in the city.
2 Yungang Grottoes to go until the afternoon, but would like to talk about it. West Gate with Pakistan in the past, nearly half an hour will be able to. Fan sitting in the car stared at the lines, to also revel in the noon of that Burton Yang Xiezai, happiness has just been filled up, I suddenly heard someone say on, and so they got out.
Wind smaller spots, but the days of gray, it's still cold, no sun. Fortunately, such a weather, visitors are becoming less frequent. Facing the caves around, vision Kong Kuo, Wu Zhou Shan Wang in front of, like the crook of the arm open, and so we go. From east to west, leisurely visit, a trip down, the sky is dim.
Under freezing temperature seems to be able to freeze the language, this stretches one kilometer great addition to my shock, do not know what sent kind words. The Yungang Cave 20 representative, bridge of the nose is high, not class Turkish Renshi; 5,6 2 Cave cover in the building to eaves painted wooden buildings, five of the Buddha cave 17 meters high, non-look up shall not be reflected in its picture; 6 cave inside the Pylon was square, surrounded by carved Buddha statues, bypass lap eyeful of painted walls on the statues and relief, with erosion, peeling off the traces of ... ... These are only a deep impression on those bare, exposed size of the caves, more numerous, unfortunately weathered a lot and probably a lot of Jiusheng a body, but the face ah, hand-ah, etc. are all partially blurred. Rock particle surface is rough, hand-Mo Shangqu, palm thoroughly cool, Back a cave dug the dates, the number of winter where the number of hands busy at these cliffs do? Can not imagine. Europe to do sculpture, and modest success, it is to be the artist, and we are here, at best artisan Bale. Chinese sculpture developed, because that is in this bar.
Such as the size of Yungang Grottoes, resulting in the condition I would like to have at least two points: First, religious fervor, the second is financial security. The Northern Wei Dynasty royal family just combine the two, can be made into this matter.
Tuoba Xianbei nomadic outfit department, the establishment of the Northern Wei regime, its capital Pingcheng (Datong) in the last hundred years. During this period, through the succession of wars, Tuoba's complete reunification of the north. Northern Wei Dynasty that North Korea is a very well-known criminal killing, the founding of the main Tuoba Gui set it down a dead child in your mother's rules: heir selected their mothers must first be put to death. Very cruel! However, the implementation of system is pretty good for future generations. Such a royal, but a long-term devout Buddhist, claim to be a "pick up the butcher's knife," as usual "deeds." This has happened before the middle of an accident in the history of Buddhism, the "three weapons a" very special ruthless destroy destroyed Buddhism, the Northern Wei Tai Wu Di Tuoba Tao is one of the three arms; humor is, too, after Emperor Wu's successor, Posthumous do not remember, and again Xing Buddha, Yungang excavated stone hire monks to begin this long lasting image of the capital projects until the Emperor Xiaowen Qiandouluoyang gradually stop.
Because of the weather relationship, we look forward to the Yungang afterglow dashing all hopes. Standing Grottoes most sodu can look around the town residential areas, large cottage sound was heard from time to time and feel very close. Some of the smoke from the roof, brought the flavor of the evening. Look over the roof, then fell on a railway across the hillside, next to a coal field, separated for a while there are trains passing, heard the roar of隔空very clear, a little bit more Guangyou Tonamiyama meaning.
Grottoes have been inscribed on the World Heritage seems to have done a lot of renovation. Buddha did not come when you heard that sounded ash, the black-Bao in general, and now to make national road diversions have been better. Amitabha, an exercise in blessing! After all, and coal compared to Datong, which is more valuable things. Xianbei people, the Northern Wei dynasty ... Gone ... we can seize, and also traces of those few.
3 From the point of view a map of Datong, the city with Beijing, Xi'an, like old plan left the shelf. Just like they should a city, the walls do not retain the paragraphs, but also marked on the map, over too dry addiction; things are straight north-south streets, checkerboard-like, a very small probability of getting lost. We are east from the Great West, not far off into a short-Lane. Morning market is catching up with time, an early share of hot vapor, and the noisy voices and dynamic. Aiming into a dilapidated little Menlian Er, do press-faceted. Inside a house full to the brim of people, and so the Council seat, and so boss to clean the table, kitchen, two, three busy, a few large bowl on the stove are lined up in a moment came, surface pressure, decoction with a big mouth and face , thermal spread, and shake off a cold! Excitement.
A small noodle out Huayan Monastery will be able to see the back of the Old City a residential middle Huayan Monastery towering high-rise, as if on top of transcendent beings. However, the past is to walk around some, and we are perfectly happy going round in circles in the streets where a while.
Block was this piece of road, rise buildings around, mostly bungalows, looking familiar. Roadway with dirt roads, jagged, many low-lying Dishuichengbing, a little slippery; both sides of the house schungite tones, with gray skies down also complement each other; the roof of the chimney is visible, it is estimated every single home is coal-fired heating, air inundated with a trace of soot in taste, reminds us of the impact of coal right to live here. From several families looking into the half-open door, next to the wall is a good coal yards; alley huidui resembles the ash heap out of here, what with rubbish, and some dirty, but true. There have been intermittent coal cars gaining in walk through, with livestock and Latin America, mobile 3, the means of transport a huge span, but in any case, such a cold day, which can are "warmth" of the.
Cai Shenmiao Street Daotou, they go around to the front of the Huayan Monastery. Huayan Monastery of Upper and Lower Temple, are sitting west east, from the Liao Dynasty relic worship of the sun. Now both sides of their ticket sales, closed down the heart's door, the room lighting the room bright. The temple architecture and sculpture are very unusual, Liang couple who had come to this visit, I had the layman will not go into details. I wonder is that the Main Hall on the Avatamsaka next Kegon thin gamma teach Tibetan Temple, TOJO are very high, positive width of the bay, Majestic. Side of the princes of those separatism, repair a palace, but also middling bar. Liao Dynasty under the rule of Datong, the wind seems to worship the Buddha's heyday, but it is not surprising, given chaos-fu, Yu pain particularly in, people need spiritual comfort.
During this chaos, from the late Tang to Song Dynasty, Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms sandwiched between the North, like the Emperor like a revolving door and go, with the spots in front of the camera is similar to not stand firm when the former, the latter put you squeezed out of. At the time of Shanxi, is that many warlords fortune base, first Dangdang Hedong Jiedushi, stronger forces, and the opportunity to come on the revolted, take a ride throne. This is dry inside with the Department of Datong is the biggest Shi Jingtang, Youyun 16 states is that he used as a transaction, ceded to the Khitan. A natural barrier to hand over the Central Plains people, pernicious influence far, Liao, Jin cavalry to come over for playing the autumn, from more convenient. Shi Jingtang themselves by selling out the country and the establishment of Later Jin Dynasty, reached the second hands, has also been the eradication of Khitan; was occupied capital of Kaifeng, the Liao emperor Yelu Deguang condoned in the name of the soldiers in order to Wrangler, four close scraping stolen, known as the "fight Grass Valley", this time, can imagine the situation of the civilian population. Loss of life, than this bar.
To the Song Taizong, when the initiative of the Liao Dynasty had two wars, trying to Restoration homeland. Second, once recovered Cloud State (Datong), but later war situation worsened, and Tatung have lost it. Storytelling "The Legend" where Yang Yang to make the public sector, people just across the board retreat in this war when he was overcast own people, and forced to battled captured on a hunger strike to death. Hey! In short, Song Jun civil war experts (neutralize the separatist regime is very smooth), lay outside the war, after all, Youyun 16 states did not fight back. Later, Song, Liao, Chanyuan Alliance, the two sides to reach a peaceful, good and bad of the two countries living on the frontiers, to this city, it touches on gospel, how to say - finally pragmatic today.
4 Huayan Monastery after reading, in the urban areas continues to cruise. Looked tall Drum Tower, Temple without going too good, to the edge of a brass shop and sat a while, watching all kinds of copper pot, copper pot, chat with the boss. Bronze shops south, was a remnant of the walls, quite a number of bricks is gone, exposing rammed earth, but the height is still a faint shadow of a military town.
In Datong city defense, the focus of the most ground in my opinion, the Ming Dynasty. Deep trench wall of the Datong city wall, that is, the emperor's love will be the Governor Xu Da built single-handedly. Fortresses complete a, and the safety factor was not enough, then successively, in a number of stationed themselves along the Great Wall construction Bu Zi, in order to strengthen defense. On the map, we easily find the names of several BU Zi, which greatly strengthens our determination to see.
Chartered very smoothly, and worked out starting immediately. Out of the city north, then to the road between Shanxi and Mongolia. At first sight less, and after some factory, big smokestacks belching thick smoke, people did not dare breathe. Pollution has yet to succeed needs to be done, Comrade ah.
Dealers increasingly distant, slowly better. A rare out of the sun, bright sunny, people began to look forward to. Walked on to the edge of the Datong basin, the terrain began to climb. Climb a hill, called Gushan, the near hills wrapped in a solitary beacon towers, looked up, leaving only mounds son of mottled. The monastery is surrounded looked, loess ravines stretch in the line of sight, sparse trees, not entirely bleak; the east, such as ribbon Yuhe general, the river shining light, probably end up with ice reason.
Gushan spiral down, is a village street. Cold-called to see the village side of rammed earth walls, like the Ming Bu Zi remains. Burst of joy, the provisional decision to go walk around. The village is very quiet, a lot of the roof basking in corn on the cob, golden, and bright colors in particular. Because the bar in the morning, a few shepherd, whip in hand, are each rushing a large group of sheep, crowded outside the village to go. We approached with curiosity to see, surrounded a woman, and asked this question on that. See why we are so exuberant mood, she went to the sheep inside comes out, holding a lamb come to us, saying that the birth did not take long. Small Bleater cried, looks like a very cute; but it is my mother quit immediately appeared from the sheep inside sound the complaint, we had to quickly put the lamb back. The most funny is that a pig, lying on the wall in the sun, two things I forgot, scratch it just hum I do not know about is comfort, it is still not happy. The villagers swept our kindly smile, chatted over a few words would be generous. Rammed earth walls that circle pointing to ask them: What is called here, before BU Zi? No one knows. Just jotted down the name of the village, north-Yu Jian.
Then along the way, then. After the upper reaches of the Yongding River water and soil conservation forest, from the victorious mouth Inner Mongolia, in the side of the fengzhen lunch.
Return in triumph I paused. Strong winds, Dai Zhe-point gap on the boring clothes, biting cold. Shanxi and Inner Mongolia there is a residual at the Great Wall, there is simply not see brick, and uneven, with nearly wall, it is filled with emotion. Encountered two shepherd, in the sheltered south Canqiang, see me wear thin clothes and opened to me to see: outside the tunic style, in fact, where my wife is in sheep's clothing, with wool, regarded as Ao Zai it. Shiver climbed Canqiang height looked forward to the southeast near a Turkish fort, look at its walls, radius than the stream that much larger North Chongqing. I thought, this is deshengbu of!
From the wall of a Huokou Jin, deshengbu. One into the alley on the shock of the two sheep, and so opened the courtyard in the main house, come out to see what happens. The results fell well, get clumsy as clever, but going this sat to sit.
Into the house, like family is lunch, three generations sitting in the Great kang, and warm. We also went to pull young couple sitting on the kang, warm, warm; side to our taste is steamed inside a Long Ti Wotou, You-face, very fragrant. We like gossip as an old acquaintance, the original young couple with children are in Datong city, over the weekend to come back to chat with the old couple. Warm to break quite a while, rose to leave, the owner has been sent to the homes of our door. Waved his hand, do not over This could not make the meet by chance encounter.
Afterwards, everyone in the Fort twisted my yard. Deshengbu Today it is a village bar, but it looks like more like a small town square, north and south of a gate in the middle branded with a road, both sides are rows of houses, a section of roadway. South Gate openings of the front, big book "protection" word, we can see the Mongolian harassment was a serious pain. This tower can go up, can the high overlooking the whole Bu Zi, its something about North and South are one kilometer look. The square kilometers place, is surrounded by thick loess walls, keeping the inside of the Great Wall. The north, a beacon in the distant hills, distant relative, it should be deshengbu an "early warning system." Have to admire the Ming Dynasty built around the common ground of the defense system, from the firm out of Datong city wall, a seat stationed themselves Bu Zi, one by one Feng Sui, this round after round of the outer line of defense in depth has been reached outside the Great Wall line is really taking great pains.
Militarily, such painstaking efforts, psychologically felt as if repelling the enemy thousands of miles, bulletproof, yet the actual situation, but it is a different story. In addition to the court-Ming Han and Mongolia, Altan had repaired a while, the rest of the time, almost side and continue. This is also no conclusive answer from the Central Plains, but the emperor has two children, quite stained with the Datong-point edge, and look at their performance, perhaps to understand why. First Zhengtong Emperor, I heard that Mongolia Esen led the troops directly toward the ground while sleepwalk hasty foreign crusades, the results of its own captured came up with the famous "Fort of the civil Change"; Subsequently, Ming Tsung, unofficial estimates put is a Flower Tai Sui, busy to go to Datong travel incognito fortune, and Minnv Li feng happened one night stand, for later contributed to a Peking Opera classic repertoire - "Prince and the Showgirl." After the middle of the Ming on the way out of the Emperor, personnel endless, the Great Wall of cultivation and then high again, how thick it, still resolving the issue.
52 days time to think it is short, but it has left me a lot of details, trivial, but profound. As if suddenly, such as night had given the military significance of Datong, about disappeared from the swords of the cusp of silence, I think, Datong is the desolation, like hanging around the house in Barton and found that no war can play.
The lonely man is a quiet sombre, like a winter, a bleak years, but still there are some things that impress you, a nearly imperceptible masculine. This is what I see Datong.
Author: eric_cj