(Change)
I.
Deliberately put civilians in the image of himself as a singer Sesson have a "Dingzhuang Zhao," he was wearing a tunic, wearing a cap, carrying a bag stand in Tiananmen Square, then the word written on bags - Shanghai. This is a lot of people are familiar with the settings and props, in the heart of China, China's largest city holding the bag produced, spiritual and material had to satisfy one of the most concrete expression. The 20 or more years ago, a long time ago to stay in people's minds the image, and will not soon be forgotten. <? xml: namespace prefix = o ns = "urn: schemas-microsoft-com: office: office" /> <o:p> </ o: p>
Today, this stylish travel scene has changed, you have to sit plane to Shanghai Pudong International Airport and then take on the maglev train with 7 minutes into the city. The world's first commercial magnetic levitation train line will be delivered in early 2003 into reality. <o:p> </ o: p>
"Attention, my dear friends from other provinces ... ... Now, I assume that you have arrived in Shanghai, I assume you are standing on the days when western edge of the Bund large classes were standing, you are like the young Karl Marx, like thinking about how to look for opportunities in Shanghai, the ... ... ways to get into this huge some of terror, were some of the beautiful city of ghosts. My answer is: attention to detail. ... ... You should have good reason to pay attention to your dress ... ... careful attention to your socks ... you ... below the neck by a tie, shirt, suit consisting of triangle ... ... Be careful what you tie clip ... ... love perfume ... ... "<o:p> </ o: p>
We can see in the newspapers the above text, according to author patient reminders, the provincial YMCA wearing a black suit, black tie, black shirt, socks and shoes should also be black, body spray the Armani perfume, sat down at the Shanghai Xintiandi The Ark bar, and then unlock the collar as a new yuppie tie loosened in order to "must be displayed at random among the exquisite." <o:p> </ o: p>
This scene might be a bit too contrived, but it is undeniable that you are a wonderful businessman like haunted in Shanghai at the turn of the century, the fate of unusual moving. With the determination of the economic center of Shanghai with a business culture attitude and cultural contrasts the north. Where people say, "friends" did not take arena atmosphere, where people will not "turn cards in hand," and always someone would "jump up", where people say, "help out" are two do not owe, where people say, "Guan Nong what matter, "to protect the personal space. Shrewd and calculating as the people of Shanghai's shortcomings have been criticized for several years, but this is the best ethical business community. <o:p> </ o: p>
More and more people believe that Shanghai is an open, modern city model, but a proud Shanghai friend said they do not care envious eyes, he said: "The work is to explain the Shanghai Peking Man do it, we to the money of the. "<o:p> </ o: p>
"Hong Kong where the popular saying is - how long did you go to Shanghai, and just like asking someone how long you did not go to Los Angeles the same." <o:p> </ O: p>
Mr. Chen Jiqiang manager of DTZ Debenham Tie Leung, said: "There is media speculation the composition, the so-called 'struggle between Shanghai and Hong Kong', are all ports, have to do a financial center, it seems that Shanghai will surpass Hong Kong." Hong Kong people sitting in the development of Chan Xintiandi Lane interview. <o:p> </ o: p>
This place is a story circulating is that time of year transformation as Xintiandi public relations consultant to the Hong Kong-World Consulting Group, Lin Nai-jen, chairman of an old lady asked tenants willing to move out, the old lady that is willing to go to housing, but there is some nostalgia, after all, lived all his life, had married and had children here. Lin Nai-Ren-old woman chatted for half an hour. Nai-Jen Lin old lady want to give her to take photographs, but wanted him to wait for a while. When the old lady again, when has changed hands a bright dress, the hair comb was a trace of chaos, the lips also painted a touch of lipstick. People are saying that "This is Shanghai." <o:p> </ o: p>
Mr. Chen Qiang, said: "Prior to November 1999, Shanghai's real estate has been dropped, after which, the Shanghai real estate started to rise, the Shanghai Hua Ting Kerry is opening more than 8,000 renminbi, and soon rose to 2000 U.S. dollars, an increase of by 100%, Hong Kong people like speculation Yeah, why buy a house in Shanghai, became an investment phenomenon. in August 2001, Shanghai to abolish the division of housing, export to Hong Kong to sell the house even more of Shanghai. "<o : p> </ o: p>
This worked in Beijing for three years, married a daughter of the Beijing people still come to a "Tale of Two Cities" - Comparison of Beijing and Shanghai: "I found that Shanghai is a place where money and put it clear that Beijing is not the case, get a case of beer get a Duck, but also had the same like Grandpa. Beijing colleagues push the money does not necessarily move him, a Beijing colleague, rented out for 2,000 square meters of office space, took 20000 commission, he The idea is to drink half a year enough to pay enough, and I asked him the next two weeks, he had leave to go Chengde play. Shanghai colleagues will not be this way, he earned 20000 this month, they will motivate themselves to earn next month, 30000, and then the next month to earn 40000. there is the Shanghai people seem to have a more open mind, willing to come into contact with the outside, I know a girl in Beijing, she will not be easy to bring me back to home to meet parents, her parents will think this guy is not trying to take advantage of Hong Kong, will not be a liar. Shanghai people do not so, they feel that nothing bad outside human contact. "<o:p> </ o: p>
Such local differences in the individual narrative always seemed interesting, but the macro view of China's development in the cities, their commonality is much larger than differences in what people do not want to earn? Which place would be "money talk do not know"? Where not to people's livelihood and economic development in the same coordinate the department measured? What are the reasons for Shanghai in the end emerged as an endless topic? <o:p> </ o: p>
Villages in the decay, small and medium cities in decay, and big cities to work towards an international metropolis naturally became the most popular. "The whole world began to talk about Shanghai, which is in our lives a real city, but I do not know why the talks are also a little bit that the meaning of dreams. Those who speak Chinese in Shanghai that China's achievements, those for China's future considerate of the people with Shanghai as China's future, those tired of the political expression of people in Shanghai was a pioneer in business culture, those who send aspirations in East Asia and China, global system theorists predicted the rise of Shanghai Decline of the West. "<o: p > </ o: p>
Shanghai offers a variety of ways and therefore more lively reading, although there not 80 years ago showing a variety of cultural ecology, originated a variety of rebellious ideas, is becoming more a single and elegant. <o:p> </ o: p>
Shanghai people's attention and talk to see if it is ever-changing stage, the noisy appearance, it is difficult to note that the city's background, the nature of Shanghai people's lives is a relatively constant undercurrent, they also looked forward to center stage in drama . How will this play affect people's lives, coerced a number of disputes and conflicts, and now there is no answer. <o:p> </ o: p>
Can not see the trend of <o:p> </ o: p>
Shanghai rage? Almost all interviewees spoke with one voice to tell me: fashion. Wear in Shanghai, is a "traditional items" of. So apart from fashion, the Shanghai also rage? So began a loss for words respondents, the results of each person's answer is different, it sounds as if all the correct answer. An interview in Shanghai, a record company friend told me that they want to engage in a new world of the Ark bar activities, let me go and see. Activities in Shanghai by the two bands is called a cover of Scottish band Travis songs. If this kind of thing in Beijing, then, it is estimated there would be no one to respond, there are original to be placed in front of you do not listen, why remake it insisted listen to people. But curiosity led me to still went to Xintiandi. <o:p> </ o: p>
In the Ark bar the door, I saw some people who look like students long line, and when I followed the team filed into the room only know that these students are today's audience. Looking around us, these are characteristics of the audience are dressed, but that has nothing to do with the rock and roll. If placed in Beijing, who has long pressed Xiangdi his head to move out of the rock line, and will head to toe, some rock, for fear that other people can not see himself as a "red Party" rock and roll fans. Happened in the bar met a Shanghai Oriental Desk editor of European and American music, he said to me: "Shanghai audience like some of the beautiful melody of music, a number of partial commercialization, and now prefer this way, similar to Coldplay or Travis nicely cool in Britain -style rock and roll. "<o:p> </ o: p>
Although the band's cover of the level of two people is not a compliment, but I find that all the audience here, listened very carefully, perhaps, in their view, did not see the real Travis, listen to remake is also quite好的. Shanghai people like to listen to pop songs have a certain tradition of Europe and the United States, the Shanghai Radio is the first comprehensive description of Europe and the United States pop music radio stations, six years ago, I was in Shanghai, a Kara OK hall to see the most full-song tracks in Europe and the United States. Even in Shanghai, take a taxi, the driver put the cassette is also a song ... ... Europe and the United States, but I want to know is why Shanghai's rock fans and the street looks no different from other people? <o:p> </ o: p>
Night Talk show radio host in the East of the host leaf sand about Shanghai people dress, said: "Shanghai is popular, but there is no trend, because Shanghai people informed, so do not be able to put the situation of their stuff, not the exciting phenomenon will appear. 10 years ago, television stations broadcast "on the beach", the do have a number of boys dressed up like Chow Yun Fat, but today's fashion for things Japanese, Kazakhstan South Korea, Shanghai people just to pursue some of this trend little change. you will not see on the street Hara, Kazakhstan Han tribe who exaggerated dress, but if you look closely, you will find in them a little traces of these trends. Shanghai people the reason why the dress is not an exaggeration, is because they can easily and quickly to see that the international fashion tide, you can see something more original. If you wear a very exaggerated fashion, others do not care, once you have been ignored and do not think you will achieve the desired effect. "Shanghai's fans to listen to music only as a part of their lives, they have more options, so it will not necessarily through the external to prove himself belongs to which category. Similarly, the people of Shanghai are also very much a taboo in wearing symbols of their own. <o:p> </ o: p>
In fact, the Shanghai people are particularly concerned about how others look at him, and so dress to emphasize that their research findings and stylish ambience, pay attention to fabrics, details, cut and match. For example there is the Italian people, each will be brought back after returning a lot of clothes, the clothes apart and re-made mid-range clothing, although in terms of materials and tailoring the less than original, but it contains a pop element, the people of Shanghai is the fancy This element. DV Directed Retrieve Su On the girls dressed in Shanghai, said: "Shanghai girls, dressed to the nature of the people of Shanghai to play to the limit, they are very particular about the dress personality, adaptable, changeable, you could not feel anything at first sight , but the difference in nuances. and Shanghai girls love their own clothes and spend the same money at least spend more money to achieve the effect. "<o:p> </ o: p>
Shanghai people pay attention to the wear, but in general are not a luxury, they buy clothes, the price of a standard month of income is said to be 1 / 10, more than this price no matter how well can not be considered. Shanghai people's standards of dress, it is necessary texture, second is to benefit, that is, the money spent to achieve the feeling of value, such as Peking Man so that regardless of the price and just outside the effects of the pursuit, in their view as "silly big "and" Do not just face-saving folder. " This fashion standard actor Lin Dong Fu, it seems, is the quality of the so-called quality is to try to make their own like the first look at others they like like it or not, rather than the Peking Man first saw how other people like it or not does not look at their hi喜欢. <o:p> </ o: p>
Directed by Zhang Ya think Shanghai people pay attention to the details of life is to stress the quality of their own, this quality comes from the advantages of a semi-colonial period to stay: "I've been to Egypt, a British who ruled the country, you talk to them about When things first ask you to drink tea or coffee, drink coffee, you say, he will immediately ask you of the Turkish coffee, or a British coffee, until they Gaode clear-cut would tell you to the next topic. by foreign domination The place has this weakness, which are infiltrated into the air molecules. Therefore, Shanghai alley mouth exposed to the sun bad old man will tell you that a suit under the buttons can not be deducted. "<o:p> </ o: p>
Similarly, Shanghai's culture and entertainment side does not emphasize any apparent trend. But the people of Shanghai will tell you where to go to entertainment, where consumption is a grade. A friend told me that the Pizza Hut Xujiahui have created thousands of its stores the day the world's highest record sales, but you can not judge the Shanghai people like this to eat Western-style fast food, if you are careful statistics, you will find in Shanghai to Since the country and around the world 40 vegetable growing system. Cultural and entertainment probably so, it will not form any reason why the trend is that too many things to choose from, in an interview Wangru Gang said: "In Shanghai, What do you want she'll give you anything." People can find their own point, so it would spread. Take leisure facilities, there are bars, cafes, tea house and the book bar. Another argument is: Shanghai is a business city, so we are calm, they know how to arrange their own lives, and will not be easily drawn into what the trend of being. <o:p> </ o: p>
Used to be "Chinese fashion coverage" and introduced the history of Shanghai show "Friday File" Miss Yu Qiduo director, said: "Shanghai people have fun as additional goods, their choices are diverse, and not many people choose to share things, such as in Shanghai, engaged in performances, the organizers often worry about market issues. "radio host" Music Kaleidoscope "program on DJ Autumn Lynn believes that:" Today, in Shanghai three generations, different forms of entertainment. grandmother's era, they are The spare time is very rich, and our current situation is very similar; mother's generation, due to historical reasons so that they have lost a lot of fun things, so now in a very awkward position; of our generation, because only one child, so they give the us more access to space. 70 years people born in the pursuit of fashion quest for many, born in 80 years we should get more of. "- <o:p> </ o: p>
"New World" in Shanghai, a scar <o:p> </ o: p>
"Shanghai's alley is sexy, there was a Jifuzhiqin like. It has tentacles cool warm, it can be a sense we can see, there are some selfish motives." Wang in "" The story is described in Shanghai's Lanes, "post - get more people to go look like drilling, where the road is decorated with crack, the sewer is overflowing, water afloat scales films and old leaves, as well as the fumes from gas Zaojian. Here are some dirty , not clean, the deepest of the deepest kind of privacy should bare out, a little less rules, and therefore, it appears to be somewhat gloomy. The sun is 3:00 in the afternoon when it photos come in, soon the sunset of the. "<o:p> </ o: p>
2001 Huaihai road side, Huangpi, and between Madang Lu emerge a "New World", this in order to Lanes as the basic design elements of 30,000 square meters of space, and Wang said, that can sense we can see sexy has nothing to do. Transformation of the famous old building in Boston, specializes in the architectural design of things Jiemingwude spent 1000 hours study of Shanghai alley, after which conducted a post-modern transformation: Uzbekistan paint the door was glass and metal replaced stove that they would be pad was waist-high can even put a few more BMW, people are sitting in Shikumen alleys will never appear on the chat with the square, the CPC is still a great site, but have been marginalized. <o:p> </ o: p>
Ryan's Hong Kong to spend 1.8 billion yuan for Pacific Bridge reconstruction project, Xintiandi is a core part of this plan, to spend huge sums of money in the relocation of local residents, the new world of cost per square meter has reached 2 million yuan, the developers made to tenants " the concept of "requirement, and requested the renovation cost of each tenant shall not be less than 200 million yuan. So mad to be called a wrap up of the new world with the appearance of funky Shikumen playground: Every street is an old-fashioned, however, is a brand new, in Shikumen facade there are Starbucks coffee, PAO Pa bakery , Japan, the band's Ark Rainbow Music Restaurant, Italian ice cream shop in Venus, Xavier clothing store, Sassoon hair salon, etc., all kinds of fashionable elements have been embedded into the narrow alleys, old and new, tradition and trends, nostalgia and pop here has been a perfect blend. <o:p> </ o: p>
Hsien romantically called Xintiandi as "a culture of imagination"; many Shanghai people are not without harsh to say that it is merely pseudo-classicism, full of Hong Kong-style tacky is that the company staff to accompany clients for dinner, visit to Shanghai where tourists love -- These visitors, including Russian President Vladimir Putin and French philosopher Jacques Derrida. The comment was made Xintiandi Lane La Maison, a French-style nightclub Moulin Rouge: "It is the kind you think you will fall in love and have a little bit in love with, in the end it is difficult to understand boredom makes you confused inexplicable place." Xintiandi it appears, with confidence to rewrite the city's most characteristic of Shanghai, the most bottom of the living space, it is transformed into a trendy community, is very delicate, refined enough to engender a faint sense of alienation, it is can not really warm people's minds, there is no way to get a real investment into the Shanghai people, even though it succeeded in pulling the visitor popularity. This slightly nostalgic reminder of the new construction is precisely this fact: nostalgia, cultural attractions, but also a lack of vigor and cultural performance - there has been no more of the culture could be demonstrated. <o:p> </ o: p>
Xintiandi entertainment district of Shanghai is in line with the aesthetic of modern psychology, investors, local businessmen Shanghai Lo is also a very understanding person, he knew that the new world can be transformed into what kind of people attracted to today's Shanghai. However, many believes that it has the quality of Shanghai Xintiandi, when people talk about, but always with a tone of contempt, they would say: "This place is a stranger to go, the noisy, so what's okay?" The Ye Sha said: "Xintiandi is Shanghai's a scar. piece of scar because of Shanghai is too grandiose, so really belongs to the people of Shanghai's many things are missing, so that more and more north of Shanghai, more and more rough." Some people therefore considers that the horizon is a place without a soul, "you have seen in the bar and saw the same in other places, where you can not find a feeling of belonging, its mood is take money out of , does not belong to its own. " <o:p> </ o: p>
People do not often go clubbing in Shanghai Xintiandi recommend to you. If you want to find a place a little more foreign flavor, and went to Hengshan, you want to go to find a unique point in Maoming Road. Different classes of people will have different place, more younger might go to ... ... such as Hong Chafang Maoming Road Church of the East China Sea, Jazz & Blues, Arome decoration is very elegant, old furniture, antique display. There are similar Sasha bars on Hengshan Road, said the bar's house and宋氏三姐妹related, which are more old-fashioned furniture, vintage lamps, wicker chair, as well as an original design, this bar hidden in an obscure places, it is the reason why Tibet is to Zhang Yang. <o:p> </ o: p>
If you do not like noisy bars, there are countless cafes and tea house. Shanghai people think that the whole country, the real essence of coffee in a culture that is them, "Only the people of Shanghai is the ability to truly feel the taste from the coffee, because the last hundred years, even the 'Cultural Revolution', the smell of coffee gardens in Shanghai Village house is not broken before. "an old Shanghai say. Now in Shanghai, cafe still has some worth and play mood of the place. Affordable when compared to coffee shop, the atmosphere has relaxed a little place is Tea House. Tea House in Shanghai is also a spread, such as the people of Taiwan to open the "my house for tea shops," chain stores in Shanghai, there are more than one hundred. Varieties are mainly pearl milk tea, tea shops of the benefits is that they can eat, chat and can provide an atmosphere of grade, is Shanghai's most impressive of the Tea House. In addition, there is a book bar in Shanghai, mostly money, more people playing real relied less profit. First appeared in the "Han Source Library" function of such book bar is basically a meeting place of intellectuals in Shanghai, such as the Read In book bar, there was often a poet, writer, where do Sharon, held twice a week activities, leisurely tour Zai, is also very cost-effective advertising. <o:p> </ o: p>
Drainage into the East radio host made a remark: "From the professional point of view is easy access to Shanghai, from the spiritual point of view, it is difficult to enter Shanghai." This is all commercial city in common, in the commercial one by one behind each other hidden commercial space.
Two,
Celebrity On Shanghai
"Shanghai people a kind of inexplicable sense of superiority, there is the ability to dominate their lives." - Wang Zhiwen "?
To Shanghai after the first interview individuals Wang Zhiwen, in fact, Wang Zhiwen shaping the image or his usual manner when interviewed by reporters all can not see he is from Shanghai. Agreed to Shanghai with his interview time, the telephone side, the most heard phrase is: "Sorry, you can call me after hours × Mody." So the time again and again deferred to a later interview with . <o:p> </ o: p>
In a high-end restaurants, and disorder, corner, Wang Zhiwen an interview, he took out his pipe, and put on tobacco, carefully fiddle with. <o:p> </ o: p>
"I'm rarely distinguish themselves by region where people, other people said I was from Shanghai, it is because I was born in Shanghai, and this point is that I can not be changed. In fact, Beijingers to me as the people of Shanghai, Shanghai people have I When the Peking Man. kid I do not like Shanghai, it may be too familiar reasons, people around me too calculating, shrewd, some I think the important thing very seriously. 18-year-old university entrance exam, a volunteer in Beijing, One is Shanghai, I make a decision within 15 minutes, select Beijing. may be 18 years of my life a little bit tired, want to have a new starting point. "<o:p> </ o: p>
Out of Shanghai, Wang Zhiwen eventually returned to Shanghai. "Shanghai people's life is known, hopes the state will give their lives to find a basis for their own lives to find an argument. A place where you stop, for more reasons to love. My mother's poor health, I need to take care of . I do not want to regret his stay in the memorial service. because very rarely called her mother, suddenly for some time, telephone number, and I realized that I need to come back. returned to Shanghai, would affect my career ? to my age, has not care. I later on in life will be more close to my own, just as the role of the same shape I was in shaping my own, I want to show people what is my life. " <o:p> </ o: p>
Recently, Wang Zhiwen greatest pleasure is to play golf, he said that when filming TV drama "Black Ice", there to play golf play, just learned to coach and learn to fit in after. Speaking of golf, Wang Zhiwen, said: "Life is like playing golf, making trouble for ourselves, and a step by step to solve out. I am very pleased that the 18-hole one less than in the past a few shots. I do not work, the main spend time to accompany his mother, playing, chatting and traveling. Tomorrow, I'm going to Japanese tourism. "<o:p> </ o: p>
In fact, Wang Zhiwen who can demonstrate a baffling sense of superiority, though, and Shanghai has nothing to do. <o:p> </ o: p>
"New York In a certain sense not the United States, Shanghai in the sense, not Chinese." - Kong Xiangdong <o:p> </ o: p>
As early as 1993, have seen Kong Xiangdong side, then the impression is in Shanghai, when he was called the "US-based pianist." This time to see him, are "Xiang-Dong Kong Art Center," the boss. <o:p> </ o: p>
Kong Xiangdong gives the impression that it is more forthright, passionate, and even sometimes you do not see the kind of artist's temperament. He said: "Shanghai has refined the traditional place, but the lack of the northern heroic spirit. A perfect Chinese, should be the spirit of both northerners and southerners fine. For example, the northerners in appreciation拉赫玛尼诺Cardiff concert works will be very easy to emotions erupt, people in Shanghai will not be so. "Kong Xiangdong He talked about the development of art school in Beijing's intention, he likes the northern broad-brush. "Shanghai in some detail the more aesthetic, Beijing is a kind of earth's atmosphere, to some extent on behalf of the Chinese culture in Shanghai can not. If a foreigner came to Shanghai, we think that to understand China, it was a big mistake Special wrong. "<o:p> </ o: p>
Kong Xiangdong and artistic undertakings in the peak period, he opened an arts center, is actually a piano school, "It's time to school, feeling a kind of retirement, but I think that makes sense. This school is no different from the second abroad. more than 20 stamps are my one man ran down. I hope that the target is able to establish a scientific mode of education. "<o:p> </ o: p>
<o:p> </ o: p>
Kong Xiangdong said that now the school teachers were mostly foreigners, "Shanghai can be Welcome to Wikipedia, she was buried in the blood of pride, but to operate the city, on its own is not enough need to outsiders. Similarly, the majority of the school management is also outsiders. " <o:p> </ o: p>
In the Kong Xiangdong seems to break an artist he can be engaged in art is a common thing to do, "I was 5 years old playing the piano, I love the cause of hope that others will love my company is actually the cause of my past extension, I hope that this education can industrialization of the 21st century, the artist's meaning should be diversified. "<o:p> </ o: p>
"Shanghai is a mysterious city, she has no history of anything heavy, but this is not to say that she has no culture of Shanghai there is always a kind of invisible things attracted me, this is the reason I chose to Shanghai." - Ren Quan <o: p > </ o: p>
Ren Quan from Harbin, but he likes to Shanghai. "In the past I want to go to Hong Kong's development, but in Shanghai, the do not want to go any place. Chose Shanghai because the city more comfortable, I do not want turmoil, my friend living in Beijing are very volatile, but the Shanghai not the case. "<o:p> </ o: p>
Ren Quan, apart from the acting and opened a restaurant called "Sichuan Spicy Fish." "In fact, my restaurant is a Northeastern Chinese cuisine and Sichuan cuisine. Dongbei the general volume of relatively large, northerners eat love pomp, that is, the remaining waste can not just eat because of the loss of face. But the Shanghai people eat, does not like to waste, Therefore, the amount of my dishes are generally less than the Northeastern Chinese cuisine, Shanghai cuisine more than slowly adjust. before the people of Shanghai more xenophobic that in addition to Shanghai dishes, other dishes to eat no law. I remember there was a friend Shanghai, the first time to eat when you spit the northeast dipping sauce for vegetables, but he now restaurant point of my first dish is the dipping sauce for vegetables. Also, before the people of Shanghai can not spicy food, and spicy food is now more and more people. "<o: p> </ o: p>
Speaking of business, Ren Quan said: "No business in the north end, in Shanghai, jump right to talk about very fine, but then the promise is very good, so easy to talk about business in Shanghai into. Shanghai people will not be chaos, the more at ease doing business in Shanghai. Shanghai is a relatively rule cities, in other cities乱收费现象, rare in Shanghai, I feel a restaurant on the obvious, which is Shanghai's strengths. "<o:p> </ o: p>
Ren Quan said: "In the past I do not understand why someone always says how Shanghai people stingy, but I have met a lot of the people of Shanghai, it was found that they wanted to within are quite expansive. Shanghai people's reluctance to bold and, in fact, is linked to their the living space. before the Shanghai poor housing conditions, many people crowded into an alley where everyone's living space becomes smaller. usually put something in the how, we must have certain rules, or you account for someone else's space. small space suppression of their forthright, so will get detailed and preoccupied. but at the same time allow them to develop a habit of compliance with the rules, a small child to comply with the rules, big big respect the rules, which also formed the Shanghai people have generally abide by the rules of good habits. "<o:p> </ o: p>
However, as one engaged in their culture, I was in Shanghai is still a bit lost. Because there is not a good test of your work, but the material. - Lu Cool <o:p> </ o: p>
Over the years the film played very little real role in 1995's "Flying Tigers" and later, virtually no film. This is because I am too lazy, and unwilling to leave Shanghai home. Go out filming, a month for two months I can not stand, if the first half of the year in Shanghai, making it does not matter. Hot-kang Well the wife and kids. Sometimes I return to Beijing, friends gather together, drink and chat, trouble every day, that the state can give rise to the idea of art, but I older, that kind of lifestyle have a certain resistance. <o:p> </ o: p>
TV series filmed a few years ago, "mother and sister-wife," I do not know what the people can not change the impression of a man in Shanghai. The start of this play is a comedy-oriented, talking about the one men and seven women's relationships - mother, wife, sister-, ex-wife, daughters, female colleagues, former lovers, but then I realized that the story is a sense of responsibility. The husband's responsibility, his son's responsibility, the responsibility among colleagues. Before that I waited too, "Under the Roof of Shanghai," Shanghai men feel the pressure, to a large extent depends on the living environment. Men can not change the living environment of the time, only cooking for the families, do laundry. In 1993 Shanghai's been engaged in an "out the biggest names in Shanghai when the" discussion, in fact, Beijing as a cultural center, producing more cultural products are unalterable. However, as one engaged in their culture, I was in Shanghai is still a bit lost. Because there is not a good test of your work, but the material. - <o:p> </ o: p>
Shanghai women to express <o:p> </ o: p>
Shanghai city's negative temperament seems to have long been made a conclusion, Mian Mian said, I love Shanghai, Shanghai is the mother. However, shares of Shanghai women there is always a hard-of strong, otherwise you can not deal with the city's people and things. <o:p> </ o: p>
Shanghai Xiao Bao columnist, said: "Eileen Chang and Su Qing novelist who has long been depicted metropolis alone, these two writers are kind of selfish woman: selfishness, indifference, materialism, such a woman is not playing up. If you live in with their contemporaries, will be very disgusted with them to do to send, but separated for 60 years looking back, they accept that they had. "In fact, Shanghai's femininity to a large extent by a number of women to be embodied in writers from the old Eileen Chang gorgeous tone to today's Whisper Baby Anne network, are revealed in Shanghai sentimentally attached to. <o:p> </ o: p>
Chen Danyan <o:p> </ o: p>
For me so that people who grew up during the Cultural Revolution, Shanghai, invisible to those in the book, it is word of mouth has a significant role in history. Each of us at that time, the opportunity to have this kind of enlightenment, such as Er-Dong Qiang take pictures, that is, an old man teaching alleys. We will also hear how to eat Western food, there is a cut of beef with a serrated knife and so on. Then being circulated among students of European novels, such as Balzac and Austin, our rule is a European novel, one can replace the two Chinese novels, you can change after the liberation of three Chinese novels, the rules on the value the concept of the. Then there are the family concerts, in an individual home, with everyone listening to Western music, but I just heard Liszt at that time to hear the opera, these things constitute our "cultural structure." I found my article is not the Chinese language where there are many things, such as some words, that is made out of Mr. Fu Lei, and we see more translation of novels, and thought it was China's own words. <o:p> </ o: p>
I was in Shanghai 30 years without any covet your neighbor, its degree of prosperity and modernization have been exaggerated. I have a lot of questions about that era. If I exaggerated what, maybe I was writing when the 70's a bit exaggerated, because it is looking back I was a kid thing, some of the world will always get better. <o:p> </ o: p>
I am in the "Shanghai salad," the book is very casual painted illustrations, this book is written more 70's and 80's, strange that this period is very difficult to find pictures of Shanghai, 30's, 40's photos of Shanghai but added that a lot. 70's on the Shanghai pictures are involved, I was not looking for photographs of the struggle, but that "people's livelihood" photos. Can not find an artist of that era wanted to look for to see if they are not able to draw may be the best painter in the seventies and eighties to go abroad, and dispersed, and I can only draw on its own memories of when I was growing up in Shanghai . <o:p> </ o: p>
Susu <o:p> </ o: p>
We are preoccupied with this life, and can not help but want to describe it. I very much enjoy the kind of life. It always give you a hope, a lot of people can not help but relish the details. Shopping ah, cooking ah, chat with friends drinking coffee, life is constituted by these, we are enjoying this, is to find pots and pans, fashion呀interesting. May be very superficial. This is a daily live呀. I have done a metaphor, soaked in warm water bath feeling, even if the warm water inundated the top of the head, you still feel very comfortable, but also willing. I do not mind people saying that "little woman prose." <o:p> </ o: p>
Zhao Bo <o:p> </ o: p>
I was in Shanghai in 1993, and in 2001 to leave. Many people stay in Shanghai for many years, and then can not be separated there.我在那里感到压抑,也许是南方呆久了,就会阴郁,我希望到北京来晒晒太阳,免得我这个人发霉了,上海很漂亮,粉饰的东西很多,那里适合女人生活,它是阴性的,有些妖媚,有些做作,女人在前台搔首弄姿的,男人是靠山。 <o:p></o:p>
上海看不到精神上闪光的东西,比如都是泡酒吧在外面混,北京就能形成参差的交流,而上海那些外来的人外来的文化全是商人全是商业,让你觉得无聊。上海的文化人都是呆在家里,他们不交流,自己有一块小天地。离开上海一年了,回想起来,我最怀念坐在双层巴士上看淮海路,我在小说里写过,说我的青春就是在淮海路上滑过去的。淮海路两边商店里进进出出的人群就像是立体电影,那是俗世的快乐。 -<o:p></o:p>
马湘东的享受生活<o:p></o:p>
◎刘运辉<o:p></o:p>
马湘东在上海和北京各买了一套房子。每周五晚上,马湘东和丈夫各自会从北京和厦门飞回上海一起过周末;而周日晚上,丈夫会飞回厦门料理自己的生意,马湘东也会在周二早上准时飞回北京上班。 <o:p></o:p>
“除了上海,在国内哪个城市居住都会严重影响我的生活质量,上海给了我生活上的追求,上海人的那种生活质量太到位了。而北京给了我精神上的追求,北京人的那种文化上的交流太到位了。在上海和北京两边跑,可以换环境,始终保持对一个城市的新鲜感。”<o:p></o:p>
马湘东喜欢新开张的地方:“上海开了新的餐馆和酒吧或者好玩的地方,朋友们就会告诉我,我就去。比如,'凯悦'开的时候,我就先跑去了。在那里的健身房,有强劲的迪斯科音乐伴奏,面对大玻璃窗跑步时可以边锻炼边看上海全景,锻炼后再在室内游泳池里游个泳,很棒!”<o:p></o:p>
马湘东非常喜新厌旧:1998、1999年偶尔会到衡山路的酒吧,现在对她来说早就是old fashion了,2000年喜欢东平路上的“热巧克力”,“凯悦”出来了跑“凯悦”,前一段时间是“新天地”。至于餐馆,“现在'小南国'和'鲜墙坊'这些地方都不会去吃了。我对一个地方的排斥非常快,两三个月就会换新地方。因为在上海老有新地方出现,更替得也特别快。前阵子喜欢吃'锦江'里的日本烧烤,'名豪'里的鲍鱼,还有'星光'里的大闸蟹。这段时间就是'鼎泰丰'、'巴国布衣'了。这方面北京就差多了。北京三里屯有个叫'藏酷'的地方前两年是最好的,前两天居然人家还跟我说'藏酷'、'99号'还是北京比较好的、流行的,那我就很不满意啦。在上海一个地方再时髦,三个月也就撑死了,因为有新的,更好的了。”<o:p></o:p>
“在上海的周末就是玩和休息,很喜欢和女朋友坐咖啡厅和酒吧,最近比较常去古北的那家白桦咖啡厅。但我特别不喜欢唱卡拉OK。以前特别喜欢跳舞,在'PARK97'和'罗杰'两个地方跳迪斯科。我现在没有以前挑剔,以前即使见一个陌生人也会穿得非常讲究,现在被改造得放松一点了。”<o:p></o:p>
“上海作为一个国际化的大都市,硬件上和纽约越来越接近,差的是'创新'和'新意',是人的素质。就以女孩子为例,纽约的女孩子特别讲究气质或者STYLE(风格化)、个性化,很独立。讲究健身,讲究对事物有独特的看法,很潇洒。而上海的女孩子健身意识比较淡,讲究的是漂亮,现在又加上了一个'味道'。而纽约的女孩子讲究的不是你的脸蛋怎么样,而是你给人的整体印象。”-<o:p></o:p>
我在上海写吃饭<o:p></o:p>
◎番茄蛋汤<o:p></o:p>
说真的,到现在还没有搞清楚我为什么会成为“番茄蛋汤”,当初只是好玩,帮朋友写了几篇关于餐厅的文章,没想到一发不可收拾,上海喜欢吃番茄蛋汤的人越来越多。 <o:p></o:p>
不过最开心的事莫过于文章出来后,到我写过的饭店没事一起和老板偷着乐,前提是这家餐厅的确很不错。我开心的是我写文章能获得这么多人的肯定,几乎每次我介绍的主要的几个菜都会被清空。 <o:p></o:p>
有个留学加拿大的同学,以前在学校的时候我们就属于很铁的那种。每次他放假回来,总会叫上我到他家附近的一家小店里吃饭。 <o:p></o:p>
这种小店在现在看来,可以说是毫无特别之处,也谈不上有什么特色菜。设备很简陋。装潢几乎没有,面积很小,最多可以坐十几个人。价格不是最便宜,比排挡要贵一点点,两个人几十块钱也可以吃到蛮多的东西。在现在请客吃饭的过程中,已经慢慢被淘汰出历史的餐桌。但对很多时尚的年轻人来说,这些菜永远要比山珍海味吃得惯,因为下饭。 <o:p></o:p>
这家店的主人是一对夫妻,老婆是掌勺的,老公是“大堂经理”,做出的菜就像他们的为人一样朴实但有味道。 <o:p></o:p>
我不知道好吃的含义是什么,只知道,吃过一口想吃一盆的那种菜是好吃的。不是少的就好吃;不是贵的就好吃。说得夸张一点:人不分贵贱,菜也不分贵贱。这种餐厅给我的感觉就是这样。 <o:p></o:p>
在上海,川菜馆最近在这段时间里真的是发疯了,开了一家又一家,本来有几次想到不做川菜的饭店吃饭,但走进店堂坐下后,发觉又上当了。前几天坐车到虹桥,在延安路高架,定西路处看到一块店招,名字很特别——“鸡鸡蛙蛙”。看他的名字想应该和川菜无关。想不到这家店还是做川菜的,实在是有点失望。不过看在它的装潢的格调是我所喜欢的那种份上,就马马虎虎吃它一顿。但没想到一吃就吃出很有趣的东西。让人记忆最深的东西上桌了,是什么呢?昆虫大拼盆,48元。栩栩如生。女孩子一片尖叫声,我的心里也咯噔了一下,不会吧。以前也吃过蝎子和蚕蛹。但这次除了这些外还有蚂蚱、蚂蚁和豆虫,全是油炸的。蚂蚁女孩子还勉勉强强可以吃几口。可其余几个家伙,几乎没人敢吃,我只能充老档,硬着头皮每种吃了一个。蝎子几乎没有什么味道,又香又脆。吃蝎子对人体的好处是去风湿和美容。蚂蚱腿比尾巴好吃,原因很简单,腿没有尾巴这样怕人。豆虫,如果不告诉我是豆虫,味道非常好,有很浓的豆香味。 <o:p></o:p>
有一个大三的学生,是一个可爱的女孩子,“来吧”的老板。 19岁的她看上去更像16岁花季,天真,烂漫。 <o:p></o:p>
“来吧”有一个亲切的名字,一群富有活力的年轻人,还有一个刚刚开始的梦想。 <o:p></o:p>
这个酒吧像她,每一件装饰品,布局和颜色都是按照她对酒吧的理解而设计的,就像她一样,充满着执著和坚定。音乐和朋友在她的生命里是不可缺少的,她的生命因为有了音乐而精彩,她的生命因为有了朋友而灿烂,她开店的原因就是那么简单。 <o:p></o:p>
她和她妈妈从江西到上海,在她读初中的时候,摇滚已经成为她生活中的重点,而开酒吧的梦想也正是从那时候开始的。 “来吧”没有衡山路酒吧的豪华,没有巨鹿路酒吧的喧闹,有的只是一种随和,把所有的客人都当作是自己的朋友,不会感到太拘束。整个酒吧最醒目的是乐器,两把吉他和一套鼓,没有固定的乐队表演,每天都会有乐手自弹自唱,来表演的人大都是老板的朋友,或者是客人。 <o:p></o:p>
虽然“来吧”饮料和酒的价格并不是很高,10~25元左右,不知道什么原因,这里的生意不怎么好。无论如何,“来吧”确实是一个不错的地方,或许以前,人们不知道“来吧”的故事,不了解一个女孩子的梦想。但现在,希望这个梦想能够延续下去。 <o:p></o:p>
现在上海的餐厅起名字,实在让人搞不懂,千奇百怪。有些地方,看店名还真不知道里面是什么的干活,就像我起文章的标题一样。 <o:p></o:p>
华山路上WALA<o:p></o:p>
WALA餐厅,门口很亮的霓虹灯也就这几个字母,叫人如何看得清清楚楚,想得明明白白,然后坦坦然然地进去。如果让我猜,最有可能的一定是酒吧。 <o:p></o:p>
WALA WALA餐厅的全称是WALA WALA世界拉丁音乐餐厅,感觉就像宇宙牌香烟,听起来很是宏伟。 <o:p></o:p>
有一家餐厅在新闸路和常德路的交叉口,它的香港大厨很年轻,而且非常腼腆,请教的几个问题基本上要别人协助才马马虎虎听得懂讲些什么。也许他刚到上海,人生地不熟,还有可能他对他自己讲的国语没有太多信心。为了让他有那么一点信心,我也只能善意地欺骗他一下,对他讲了一句广东话:“吾关系,我识听广东话。”听到这句,这位老兄讲话果然流利很多,用广东话。 <o:p></o:p>
这样年轻的香港大厨很少见到,不仅因为年轻,还因为这家餐厅的一个老板是蔡澜先生,开张那天,我去了,和蔡先生聊了一会,听到最开心的一句话——懂得吃的人是越吃越瘦的。和吴佳丽聊到了毛蚶,她的最爱,整个人花枝乱颤,虽然年岁已是不小,面上皱纹几乎不见,总结:保养皮肤多吃生的东西。 <o:p></o:p>
粗菜馆是这家餐厅的名字,总部在香港,很多明星都去那里吃它的炒猪杂、香辣鱼腩和猪油捞饭。过几天我去了,点了这几个菜,外加了东坡骨和猪颈肉。炒猪杂确实不一般,鱼腩味道不错,其余几个还算及格。虽然是蔡先生开的,但还是要实事求是。 <o:p></o:p>
有一次去报社对面的小笼馆吃午餐,发现对面几个北方朋友也在吃小笼,不过吃法有点特别,先把里面的汤去掉,再吃,我实在不懂,为什么会有这种吃法,后来请教了几个北方朋友才知道,北方人不爱吃汤。 -<o:p></o:p>
半国际主义城市<o:p></o:p>
去年初,崔健结束了在上海的亚洲音乐节上的演出后,带着自己的小号去了上海最出名的爵士吧棉花俱乐部,他没有在台下给自己找位子,人们愉快地看见他直接走上台,开始吹奏爵士。 <o:p></o:p>
上海的爵士迷每周至少要去这三个酒吧:星期天在茂名路的爵士布鲁斯,星期一在波特曼酒店的Ritz-Carlton酒吧,而爵士迷们最喜欢星期二去棉花俱乐部。 Ritz-Carlton的音乐总监丹尼·伍迪(Danny Woody)说:“在中国,爵士乐热潮又开始了。特别是在上海。”伍迪曾经在北京的爵士吧Big Easy呆过两年,他说,“5年前的北京,到爵士吧里的大多数是老外,现在是中国人占了多数,他们很多人是成长中的中产阶级,他们真的喜欢爵士,也懂爵士。”上海萨克斯管演奏家肖路说:“以前我们都希望在国家乐团里找个稳定工作,现在音乐系的学生都往爵士吧跑。”和西式餐厅在上海迅速增长一样,爵士吧也开始多了:或许这不过是酒吧市场的小策略,但是对玩爵士的人来说,是好消息。 <o:p></o:p>
3月1日晚,马友友在上海大剧院进行了德沃夏克专场音乐会,上海是马友友2002年亚洲巡演的第一站。这天,几乎所有被采访的上海人都提及这场音乐会:你去看了吗?某种程度上,爵士乐似乎正在转变成又一种版本的古典音乐:一种公认的由一个废弃的风格占大多数的保留曲目所组成的,由艺术家们为了一群在经济上成熟的人和中产阶级的公众而演奏。上海人说,北京有摇滚,香港有流行音乐,上海人为什么不能有自己的迈尔斯·戴维斯? <o:p></o:p>
北京的酒吧正流行视觉系乐队“二手玫瑰”,他们的歌词几乎就是一个接一个黄段子。东北土产二人转也在北京演出了,那更是直截了当的出口成“脏”。 “上海的酒吧有个缺陷:不像北京酒吧在音乐方面很有原创性,这也是上海的缺陷,不够多元化。上海似乎特别容易和消费主义结合起来,它做得特别快也特别好。但是像北京这种哪怕粗糙点,但是有活力的东西,上海很少。”包亚明说,他是上海社科院文学研究所副研究员,曾经负责一个关于上海酒吧的课题研究。 <o:p></o:p>
上海的电影院今年计划扩充。徐家汇的永乐电影城、柯达超级电影世界从设备上说都堪称豪华,它们在上海甚至在全国的票房也始终占据前两位。上海的扩充计划中包括再建造10个具有超过10个放映厅的电影院。 “从硬件上看,电影院的档次规模已经全面超过香港,但上海超过香港了吗?除了主流的A类电影,我还能看到别的B类电影吗?或者一般人不看的电影?当然这和检查制度有关系,但国际化都市最重要的一点是它的多元性以及对多元性的容纳,任何多元性的东西在全球性都市里都能找到它的生存和发展空间,而上海在这一方面比较薄弱。从这方面来说,你可以说上海的国际化是肤浅的。”包亚明说。 <o:p></o:p>
以下是一份上海大剧院2002年排出的海外节目单:古巴芭蕾舞团《唐吉诃德》(5月)、全版百老汇音乐剧《悲惨世界》(6月)、以色列小提琴家伊萨克·帕尔曼(8月)、法国马赛芭蕾舞团新作《罗丹的情人》(9月)。英文杂志《That's Shanghai》的艺术与娱乐版编辑林慧心觉得这样的演出多少有些闷人,虽然上海大剧院的选择无可厚非:这样的选择比较安全,能够保证票房收入。但林慧心还是称之为“保守的国际化”。 <o:p></o:p>
林慧心描述在上海“舒舒服服的,走在街上就觉得有很多东西看,特别有娱乐性,我喜欢喝Orgren Tea这个牌子,在上海很容易能买到”。这些便利似乎过于唾手可得,林慧心注意的是目前呆在上海的外国人和在北京的外国人似乎并不一样——一个英国BBC驻沪记者经典地形容“上海是一个舒适的中国”。上海在1942年曾经有15万外国侨民,1949年还有28000人。如果去问年龄比较大的上海人“你的外语是怎么学的?”他可能会说:“我家对面就曾经住过一个白俄。”根据上海外事办的统计,目前驻上海的外国人有26000人左右,他们在上海的时间大多不会太长,林慧心说:“我对这个城市没有归属感,它很方便,但缺乏强烈的吸引力。事实上广州有时候会表现得更加国际化,广州人的生活态度放松得特别彻底,也很可爱。”-<o:p></o:p>
上海与香港蓝调<o:p></o:p>
一个“百万富翁”式的题目:伦敦可以和哪个城市互为双城?传统答案,巴黎。如果说上海和某个城市出演双城记的话,可供选择的答案包括北京,香港,台北,东京,巴黎,甚至加尔各达——曾经有印度学者讨论过上海和加尔各达的后殖民化城市问题。 <o:p></o:p>
上海人说跟中国城市有什么好比的?弗搭界。我们愿意跟纽约比。 <o:p></o:p>
香港却被上海搞得有点奇怪。去年10月底在香港举行的世界经济论坛东亚高峰会,香港特首董建华特地说:“香港不会被上海取代,因为香港人一直很勤奋努力,香港会一直领先上海。”今年初,香港贸易发展局发布了《沪港双城优势报告》,首席经济师梁海国说香港和上海都是推动亚太区发展的主要动力,更是通往中国内地的大门,彼此是策略伙伴过于正面交锋的竞争对手。香港仍然是上海最大的外来资金来源地,上海目前正致力于发展为一个面向国际的经济中心,香港则朝着世界顶级城市的目标推进。如果香港、上海按照过去10年各自的平均增长速度发展计算,上海需要15年才能赶上香港的生产总值,20年才能追上香港的人均收入。香港由此很焦虑,担心自己的花样年华已然逝去,未来是上海的。 <o:p></o:p>
香港的焦虑,或许恰恰是因为香港一直都有上海情结。李欧梵在《上海摩登》里认为上海曾经和香港互为他者,它们是两面带有同质的镜子。如今的上海则使这种镜像变成了双重的:香港长期以来一直是以老上海为蓝本,而新上海看上去像是香港的现代或者后现代复制——在硬件方面尤其明显。令人吃了一惊的是,1980年代香港那种到处洋溢着机会和自由的快乐梦想似乎也开始弥漫21世纪的上海了。 <o:p></o:p>
香港中环的兰桂坊是一个高度贵族化区域,充满了以异国情调命名的新潮酒吧和餐厅。 <o:p></o:p>
香港诗人梁秉均在《兰桂坊的悲哀》里流露出对全球化压力在城市中刻下的印记的情感反映,对梁秉均来说,兰桂坊体现了香港的混血文化:“东方和西方,过去、现在和未来,它们都自由地、杂乱地填塞在这里。”它制造了一种“各色人等来者不拒的开放空间”的形象——包括外国移民和当地人,旅游者,艺术家,年轻人。然而,这一形象不过是对熔炉意识形态的程式化的重复。在1992年新年夜的事故中,有20个人在兰桂坊拥挤的人群中被踩踏致死,之后,香港政府力图整顿这个地区。梁秉均提供的故事是对全球化压力感伤的阐述,它记录了那些除了全球化主题公园之外另有期望的人悲哀的原因:“兰桂坊总是让我想起香港。我们拥有的空间是一个混合的、杂交的空间,一个拥挤的、危险的空间,即使在危难时刻也像狂欢节一样,如同天堂,但是又与灾难相去不远,很容易进入,也很容易被政治、经济和其他力量盗用……这个对我们开放的空间也非常容易让我们感到迷惑。”<o:p></o:p>
王家卫是5岁时离开上海的。 “我为什么要对上海有兴趣呢?我自己看到的上海的记忆是我外祖母的家,”“我也不怀旧,根本无旧可怀。我感兴趣的是空间。”<o:p></o:p>
王家卫用摄影机来描述香港,他试图用个人的眼光来描绘城市以便在它永远消失之前给香港记录一个真实可信的图像。 “很多人问我《重庆森林》是不是我写给香港的一封情书。可是我没那么浪漫。对我来说,它就像一部日记或者一张地图。所有情节都是按照这个空间的逻辑设置的。如果你看了《重庆森林》之后再去香港,你就不会迷路。”<o:p></o:p>
在王家卫的电影里,香港光鲜动人的神话空间就被那些破烂建筑的店面、稀松平常的公寓和廉价的快餐店代替了。吸引国际投资者和游客的地方可能距离阿菲、警察633和223并不远,但实质上确实他们在城市中的徒步生活经验是遥不可及的。在卫慧的小说里,陕西南路的阴阳吧分为上下两层,穿过长长的楼梯下去,位于地下室的跳舞场呈现一种快活的气氛,这个酒吧充满了酒精、口水、香水、大麻、肾上腺激素和身体交易的味道。在小说里热闹非凡的阴阳吧现在看起来客人不多,装修还是数年前的,颇为冷落。阴阳吧的老板程梯米身体不好,带着心脏起搏器,他轻言细语地说:“我打算告她,大家都做点广告。”<o:p></o:p>
仿佛香港电视台的老牌节目《寻找他乡的故事》,程梯米自称是“最后一代香港上海人”:父母是上海人,20世纪50年代移民香港,程梯米在香港长大,去伦敦受教育,1992年3月来上海,如今定居上海,每年回香港过春节。 <o:p></o:p>
上海目前有20万台湾人在上海工作或学习,定居人数超过2万人。而香港政府最近对香港市民的一项调查表明:70%的香港人愿意降低10%左右的薪水到内地工作,44%的香港人选择上海,9%的人愿意去北京,选择广东的占22%。上海成为香港人首选的城市,对行业选择方面则是服务行业占的比重最大。 <o:p></o:p>
“香港人是实在的、拼命的、富于理性的,但在精神上少了一点浪漫和梦幻。上海这个城市同样现实,但是在晚上12点以后,这个城市有一种月亮的美,很漂亮。”当然对程梯米来说,为上海付出的代价未免太高了。在上海的十年里,他开过酒吧、中东餐厅、美发沙龙,甚至游戏厅,投入800万元,如今剩下的不多。 <o:p></o:p>
“这十年的改变,就是我的酒吧里的客人都去别的地方了,市场越来越壮大,但是真正懂PUB的人还是没有多少,还是不理性,不成熟。”“另一个改变就是红双喜从2元6角一包到了8块钱,大家都抽国烟不抽外烟了。”<o:p></o:p>
关于上海,程梯米有自己的解释:“其实所有的投资者都是赌徒,90%的投资者都输了,没有钞票拿回家。这些钞票都变成这里的人穿了什么衣服,住什么房子,零用有多少了。现在上海人都到位了。”<o:p></o:p>
出人意料地,程梯米认为自己并非失败者,“我不打算离开,所以我不是输的人”。他说,“这不是纯数字的计算,我得到了经验。这种经验对于回归之后的最后一代香港上海人是很丰富的。这些就是我的资产。上海就是这么一回事,整个世界也是一个赌场。”他有些悲喜交织:“你看上海这些高架桥,多漂亮!这里面也有我的贡献呀!”
三、
陈天桥:心存敬畏的亿万富小子
2001年春节以后,陈天桥觉得自己的身体像“中了邪”,心脏腻腻歪歪老不舒服。这个1973年出生的复旦大学经济系毕业生有一个与众不同的心理,“我喜欢听好话”。所以陈天桥从自己租住的公寓中搬出来,搬进装修好的新家;据说他的盛大网络发展有限公司也要乔迁。这些都是为什么?因为风水问题?还是他代理的网络游戏《传奇》每个月的销售旺盛,眼看着今年他的身价就过亿了? <o:p></o:p>
陈天桥的生意开始于1999年11月做的动漫网站stame.com。最初想做一个卡通虚拟社区,后来转向做网络卡通,目标是“网络版的迪斯尼”。这样的创业狂想跟70年历史的迪斯尼相比,“我们后来明白自己没有一个先天的著名的卡通形象,也没有资本,想做一件我们不能做的事情。”陈天桥说。 <o:p></o:p>
但是这个stame.com受到急于在国内投资的中华网的青睐。 1999年12月,中华网CEO叶克勇与陈天桥见面后临上飞机前对手下说:“stame.com我要定了,你带上签好的合同回来见我。”这样,陈天桥在2000年1月拿到了中华网300万美元的投资,中华网得到的是相当于它总浏览量30%的PageViews。当然stame.com的浏览跟其他网站的浏览量一样没有能给公司带来实际赢利。到2001年6~7月间,300万美元中只剩下100万美元,陈天桥的大卡通战略:游戏、杂志和Flash广告被迫删改,公司的员工从50人裁减到20人,所有非游戏部门的队伍被全部清除。 <o:p></o:p>
决定做游戏之后,陈天桥打了两个大算盘:先组织了一个队伍,打算从开发设计开始做一个自己的游戏,后来陈天桥到韩国之后打消了这个念头。 “韩国把网络游戏当一个国策来发展,已经领先中国两年了。”陈天桥说,他想到韩国找来一个游戏做中国的代理。结果陈天桥找到的《传奇》先期要交30万美元的安装费,为此他和中华网打了一架,因为中华网拒绝给这个游戏投入。其中的分手细节还不得而知,但是陈天桥拿回了公司所有股份,并且仍然保留了至少30万美元拿到了《传奇》的代理。 <o:p></o:p>
未经证实的数字:陈天桥说《传奇》游戏平均同时在线人数是12万,按照每人一小时花费0.29元,陈天桥每天的游戏收费流水是83万元,扣除游戏卡销售渠道代理费和给韩国游戏生产商的使用费,老陈同志要开始为自己挣的钱着想了。 <o:p></o:p>
让陈天桥耿耿于怀的是:“《传奇》开始推广的时候,有人评价是个烂游戏;然后说游戏是个好游戏,可惜一个烂公司在做;最后也不说公司如何了,就说我们是捡了一个大元宝。”事实上,陈天桥获得了韩国游戏生产公司发出的“最佳运营奖”,“我们的营业额是游戏总营业额的百分之几十。”陈天桥说,“占有客户的大运营商,同样可以购买生产商。生产商并不是永远坐在价值链的最高端。”谁是失败者? <o:p></o:p>
唐海松绝对是上海的异类。他不穿西服,头发一般是摩丝支撑着的立体形状,脖子上系着丝巾。在亿唐的“明黄一代”概念即将推出的前期,他会把手下叫进自己的屋子,把脚翘在桌子上,问:“你知道明天的上海是什么颜色吗?是黄色!”<o:p></o:p>
其实唐海松并没有犯黄色的忌讳,关键是上海人不但不清楚他说的黄色是什么意思,而且也不喜欢他要用黄色完成在互联网投资退潮期抓紧时间努力上市的努力。唐海松和合伙人创办亿唐拿到4000万美元的风险投资,怎么说都是一个壮举。但是在上海,甚至在北京,人们对亿唐公司在实际经营中缺少业绩都用另眼相看。 <o:p></o:p>
如今唐海松紧急刹车、裁员节流,把公司从梅龙镇写字楼搬到了威海路一栋4层的居民住宅楼内。酷哥唐海松从这里开始下一步创业,用剩下的2000万美元想把“明黄一代”的时尚生活实业做起来。 <o:p></o:p>
在亿唐的新办公楼里,亿唐牌的黄色小包等各种用品已经制作完成,唐海松闭门谢绝媒体采访。公司员工说:“他跳跃性思维很快,我们都跟不上。”唐海松推荐了两个年轻人接受记者采访,做现代中国式家具、园林的陆鉴然和做模特经济演出的方华。 <o:p></o:p>
26岁的陆鉴然1994年从复旦大学国际贸易系毕业,一个偶然的机会出来做家具、园林行业,在上海长乐路租下一套带院子的老房子。顾客唐海松光临之后,对陆鉴然的生意产生了兴趣,马上要陆鉴然做一份更大的完整的商业计划书。方华是北京人,新丝路模特公司模特管理部经理,做过马艳丽、谢冬娜、岳梅的经纪人。今年2月,亿唐公司与方华投资注册了上海火石文化经济有限公司,并签下了李艾、韦杰等几个模特演艺新人。 <o:p></o:p>
创业是艰难的,在没有成就以前,对唐海松的评价是“不务实”;做成了呢,是一个创造力大的年轻企业家。但是在上海,唐海松能做的事情有多少呢? <o:p></o:p>
在上海滩谁最能干事情?复星的郭广昌?中远的徐泽宪? <o:p></o:p>
“谁说他们好了?做好了就不这么折腾了。我们都是那些年毕业的同一拨,混得好的早没声音了。”高利民说。高利民是上海为数不多的“新经济”强力鼓吹者,现在口风已不像他和柳传志在央视那次著名的“光脚的和穿鞋的”对话那么强劲了,他和那个占据上海股市财经信息网络头牌的“证券之星”一直没有落地。一方面在业务上,公司到底是做财经资讯还是做证券网站的ASP,还是这两个方向都不好;另一方面最关键的是一旦最受投资者眼热的证券交易牌照无法拿到,其他业务能够受到投资者多少青睐就很成问题了。 <o:p></o:p>
高利民显然不认为上海是他希望的那个新经济的好土壤,他说:“上海是全国寻租成本最高的地方,每个企业的空间就那么大,大家都要踮起脚尖跳舞。这跟上海原来的居住环境一样,原来大家都住亭子间,所以人就有精力在家里斗啊。北京那么大的地方,他不需要在家里斗。”<o:p></o:p>
新经济的残酷文质彬彬得看不见血,“在热潮期,我们最大的便宜就是拿到了廉价的投资。也许只要付出平时50%的股份,就可以拿到100%的投资。当然对于一些投资商来说,他们的代价就高了,有时候甚至血本无归。”携程网的CEO梁建章说。邵亦波是上海著名的大头神童,梁建章是另外一个。梁建章的部下私下做过一个比较,结果好像是梁建章更大头一些。 <o:p></o:p>
但是头最大的是叶钢,目前在永嘉路627弄口卖彩票的前百万富翁。叶钢还欠着30多万的债务,现在每个月可以挣到6000元左右,逐步还下去还要十几年时间。 1988年,29岁的叶钢去了日本,理由是深造。 “所谓的深造也谈不上。说白了,就是为了挣钱的目的,为了养家糊口吧。”叶钢说。三年后,叶钢带着50万辛苦血汗钱回到上海,开始了他惊心动魄的7年冒险。 1991到1992年,叶钢在邮市上获得了100万元利润。随后到1996年,这些钱在期货投资上赔了个干净。剩下的是1992年残留的一些邮品,“跑到邮票市场,有很多人认为我又回来了。问我带多少资金回来。我就跟他做了一个手势,我说我永远是从零开始。”叶钢说,他又一次开始了在邮票市场的疯狂炒作,成了当时赫赫有名的大庄家——“小黑皮叶飞”。据说高峰时,他手上的资产近千万元。 1998年,叶钢折在他囤积的“玫瑰片”上,再次一文不名,家里阁楼上还存着那些致命的明信片。他能卖彩票,也是因为下岗职工的身份得到了救济性工作。 <o:p></o:p>
叶钢梦想着中国,至少是上海可以开放博彩业,以他的“职业身家”再来一次。他还以违章出售联体明信片为由,状告贵州省邮政局,希望从那里找回一些狂赌邮品的损失。这次起诉当然没有成功,在规矩越来越多的社会中,曾经的“小黑皮叶飞”东山再起的机会越来越小了。叶钢的失误在于没有把握住机会把原始积累转换为新的投资,没有在富裕之后及时从一个16岁即离开中学闯入社会的莽雄洗心革面成为新的资本家。像叶钢这种对财富的原始冲动在上海越来越不野蛮了。 <o:p></o:p>
一个听完了叶钢故事的上海人说:“我并不赞成说是他今天一贫如洗,我觉得钱不能代表一个人的价值。他16岁自己去独闯天下,做的都是我们从来没有想过没有做过的事情,我觉得这是很前卫的。当时我们都在念书,而且什么都不懂,根本不敢走向社会。除了在课堂里学习,什么都不知道。他经历了那么多的风风雨雨,而且当时确实很有收获,我觉得我很敬佩他这一点。”<o:p></o:p>
(十分感谢简、叶蓉、潘向黎、胡锰、薜莉、罗荣对本文提供的大力帮助)-<o:p></o:p>
冒险家种种<o:p></o:p>
叶钢:“小黑皮叶飞”<o:p></o:p>
问:“当时你在邮票市场有一个绰号,叫做'小黑皮叶飞',为什么?”<o:p></o:p>
叶:“我本来脸比较黑一点,始终被人误解,被人误解也是我的命运。我为什么起名叶飞呢,我想有朝一日我能高高飞起,所以起了个叶飞。绰号只不过是人家看我的外表而起的。”<o:p></o:p>
问:“你做期货、做邮票、做股票,每次都是喜欢把自己所有的资金都投入,满仓操作,有些人觉得你不是在投资,是在赌。”<o:p></o:p>
叶:“可以这么讲,赌。我总结了一条,就是今后的投入一定要按照自己的计划,按照自己的止损点去做。任何事情有个ABC法则,把任何事情分成三份投入,这样比较来得好一点,也许不至于失败。”<o:p></o:p>
问:“跟你聊天,我觉得你比较忧郁,跟你十几年的几番风雨有什么关系?”<o:p></o:p>
叶:“那当然了,每个人假如遇到这种失败,都有不同的压抑感。说白了,我目前的情况只不过是手上有这么些货(邮品),也可以说是一贫如洗。当然我还是在等待机会,有朝一日我还会重新再试一下。”<o:p></o:p>
问:“现在你叫叶钢,还是最开始你的本名就叫叶钢?”<o:p></o:p>
叶:“我的本名叫叶志钢,志和钢这两个字,它永远伴随着我的左右。可是现在光有志气没用,现在现实当中需要的是钱来支撑我的志。”<o:p></o:p>
问:“你从日本回来以后有50万现金了,如何投资,如何让这笔钱再生钱,有没有跟家里人商量过。”<o:p></o:p>
叶:“我惟一的最大的失败根源,就是没有跟任何人商量过。好像我有种我行我素的感觉。今后有机会,还是以商量为主。”<o:p></o:p>
叶钢姐姐说:“他做任何事情不跟别人商量,你问他,他也说不出一句话。我几次提醒他,你做什么事情都要小心一点,你是外面跑跑的,从很小年纪就好像出生入死自己去闯世界的啦,应该对人有个认识。但他从来不跟家里人商量,自己想到做什么就做什么。”(以上对话引述自上海卫视节目《财富人生》)<o:p></o:p>
徐沪生的“烂杂志”理论<o:p></o:p>
徐沪生,1970年出生,复旦大学哲学硕士。 2000年10月,创办《上海壹周》,任执行副总编。该报在一年当中成为上海“小资”消费的必读报纸。随之徐沪生突然辞职。 2002年1月,创办《美家买楼王》,任执行副总编。 <o:p></o:p>
问:在成功创办时尚周报《上海壹周》之后,你为什么突然转向一本不起眼的房地产杂志《美家买楼王》? <o:p></o:p>
徐:不起眼,正是我转向它的一个考虑因素。要我选择最值得运作的媒体,我会首选电话黄页:没有一个字的敏感内容,广告量巨大,关键是可以公司化,产权清晰,资本运作、上市、MBO,什么都可以。但是电话黄页轮不到我们做,所以我选择信息加工类媒体——照一个做新闻的朋友的说法是“垃圾媒体”。我认识的厉害角色,都在做综合日报、财经报纸、精品杂志,正好把市场让给我们这些没有新闻理想的人了。 <o:p></o:p>
问:那你不是被迫转投“垃圾媒体”的? <o:p></o:p>
徐:有个脑筋急转弯的老题目:一吨棉花和一吨铁,哪个重?媒体也是一样,财经媒体的100万利润,和“垃圾媒体”的100万利润,哪个多? <o:p></o:p>
市场前景一样广阔,后者的资金投入却比前者要小得多。而且各方面关注度不高,政策限制也少。都是替国家做,同样的钱,我宁愿赚不那么让人头疼的那种。另外,万一将来政策松动,先放开的,应该是信息加工类媒体,而不是新闻类媒体。 <o:p></o:p>
问:做媒体不和资本以及其他社会资源结合? <o:p></o:p>
徐:我见过太多媒体和资本结合的案例,媒体经营者惟一的收获,往往只是多了一个难以沟通的老板而已。其实媒体是为数不多的几个可以“炒楼花”的行业,并不是惟有资本家手里才有钱。办《美家买楼王》,我们的上级主管——上海文艺出版总社没有投一分钱,我们也没有找任何投资商。我们做了概念版,就开始招商,然后和广告总代理签三年合约,用他们的预付款进行运作,然后再帮他找二级代理商,替他找钱。现金流设计好了,就可以正式启动。 <o:p></o:p>
问:这么就小避大的原因是什么? . <o:p></o:p>
徐:在很长一个时期内,哪怕竞争表面上很激烈了,优质的特别是能赚“快钱”的媒体,还是会非常匮乏。各类广告公司、媒体代理公司,是我眼中最理想的“投资商”,而且他们不要任何股份。当然,你要有完善的方案,一整套的的执行方法,以及好的团队,让广告公司的老板们愿意跟你搏一把。因为近乎赌博,所以压力也非常大——它要求你能赚“快钱”。一旦别人半年,甚至3个月做不到生意,就会逃,他一逃,你的资金链就可能断裂。这很残酷,也很刺激,没人陪你玩战略游戏,指标是第3个月能进多少,第6个月能不能持平。几千万、几个亿的大项目,这种模式也许不适用。但是有那么多中小生意可以做,又何必非大生意不玩。 <o:p></o:p>
张旭东:“快绝种的上海人”<o:p></o:p>
“说起来,我是上海那类快绝种的本地人。从我上数五辈,父母方都是上海本地人,但是我儿子就不算了,因为我夫人是外地人。我爷爷那一辈是虹镇老街人,现在和平公园、鲁迅公园都是张家的土地。上海建造中苏友好大厦(现在的上海展览馆)时候,我爷爷张仲年是中方的总建筑师。大厦尖塔是镏金的,需要水银打底。爷爷去查看时没带防护罩,结果水银中毒,没几年去世了。父亲是华东建筑设计院的高级工程师,1982年我考进了上海交大工业外贸系。<o:p></o:p>
“1988年,我带着110美元到美国,一直是极自卑的。当时最恨的就是台湾老板,我干的都是最苦、最贱、时间最长的活,但是每小时的薪水只有2美元。但是现在我觉得这老板还是不错,因为他给我机会了。现在上海的本地人,宁愿拿'救济工资',大学毕业也就是1500到2000元一个月的工资,顶天了到2500元。我们公司主要中层干部,主要干活的员工都是外地人,我就喜欢这样的'苦大仇深'的人。”<o:p></o:p>
张旭东毕业后当到了美国第二大私营公司Koch的国际融资部主任,亚洲分公司的首席财务官。 <o:p></o:p>
中华网给安家网的投资基本花完之后,张旭东找到一家北京的同行网络公司谈合并问题。 “一个多月下来,哥们儿也交了,桑拿也一起洗了,什么条件都答应了,可是临了那老兄来了一句话,'哥们儿,不行了'。按照协议是7月28日对方应该打款100万美元给我,到7月24日,对方告知我们要推迟付款。我知道这单完了。然后在2000年9月,上海一家上市公司(它目前正经营着上海一个足球俱乐部)找到我们,开口要了一个价钱,谈到收购后的董事会构成、以及股票的转让形式,一切都只要我答应就没问题了。但是条件实在太苛刻,我除了保留一点点股份,其他什么都没有啦。最后我们从新加坡的TDF公司引了一轮小资,我还是公司的控股股东。”-<o:p></o:p>
雇员之城<o:p></o:p>
为什么上海是一个雇员之城?并不是说上海市的雇员数量比其他城市多,而是说这个城里的人更安于当雇员,想当老板的人比其他地方少。 <o:p></o:p>
明基公司的中国营销总经理曾文琪在大学做演讲传播为商为人之道,遇到学生问他是否支持大学生创业当老板。 “我心里是反对学生创业的。按照一个正常概率:学生毕业后先当学徒,十个学徒中一个成为专家,一百个专家中有一个导师(部门领导),一千个导师成就一个领导(企业家)。但是的确有比尔·盖茨、迈克尔·戴尔辍学当老板。那时这两个老板的父母都反对,但他们自己想得很清楚,觉得一定要这么做才行。所以这不是一个要问的问题,一问就说明你当不了老板。”曾文琪说。 <o:p></o:p>
曾文琪是台湾地区人,由他来说上海人如何,籍贯上不对应。说起上海雇员之城的名声是宿命还是竞争力的表现就褒贬不一了。 <o:p></o:p>
"我小时候全家都用一种东西,上海人叫做'假领头'——上面的领子是完整的,但下面不是一件完整的衣服,而是一件小背心样的东西,穿在正衫的里面。如果脱开来,效果会很不堪,但是外套扣子扣好,一个漂亮的领子衬着,会很干净、体面,戴上领带跟穿着衬衫一样。这绝对是上海的发明:在当时经济而实惠。现在这种可笑可怜的服饰当然早就被淘汰了,但我总觉得那是上海人某种气质的一个表征,是作为一个曾经的雇员城市的心态遗留——我们都是体面的小市民,我们都是'洋装瘪三'。”鲁西说。鲁西是上海某广告公司媒体部总监,她说:“我爷爷解放前在海关供职。在旧上海,在海关工作被称为'金饭碗',而'银饭碗'说的是在银行工作,因为这两者工资高、稳定而体面。上海老百姓,最担心的就是被'砸饭碗'。竞争太激烈了,你不干,自有一大堆人等在门口,于是,在高压下,上海人养成了一种高度的职业紧张感。这种紧张感渐渐成了一种心理习惯。我老公前几年辞职,他父母知道后忧心忡忡,他父亲甚至劝他:'算了,做下去好了,再不好,总算有个单位'。他自己好像很坚决,但后来告诉我,辞职后第二天,他做了个噩梦:找不到下一份工作,没有收入,急得大汗淋漓。天生的'雇员情结',你说怎么办?”<o:p></o:p>
戴宇舫是达美高广告公司的创意总监,公司做菲利浦照明、罗氏制药这样的国际客户。之前小戴的客户是拜耳制药,而且那是真正的“自己”的客户,小戴和其他两个合伙人一起创建了那个广告公司。为什么不当自己的老板了呢? “你知道,我们那个虽然也是广告公司,但毕竟比大公司还不同。我觉得应该回大公司,那里的的团队、资源更好,不能离开这个行业太远了。”<o:p></o:p>
就是说小戴重新当雇员的理由是:小公司可以赚钱但是不能保持进步,赚钱的日子有限;大公司可以保持不断进步,挣的钱也足够。从事业发展的角度来考量,还是在大公司更加有利。 <o:p></o:p>
张爱玲说:“上海人是传统的中国人加上近代高压生活的磨练,新旧文化种种畸形产物的交流,结果也许是不甚健康的,但是这里有一种奇异的智慧。”<o:p></o:p>
“上海人的智慧是适应的智慧。”鲁西说,“当然,只有雇员适应老板,没有老板来适应雇员。上海雇员最会察言观色,好比现在我所在的公司,私营老板当家,老板脸色不好绝对没有人敢拿预算来说事儿。否则,不用老板骂,自己就先觉得自己'拎勿清'——不明白事理。在上海,'拎得清'是基本的生存智慧。我以前公司的一个外地来的同事就非常的'拎勿清',在一个老板出席的客户招待宴席上,一个客户津津有味地谈起了神秘现象,我这个同事是个司马南一样的无神论者,而且痛恨伪科学,当下就'拎不清'起来,跟客户较真说起这个话题来。客户倒没有明确说自己是个神秘主义者,但如果听话听音,就可以知道客户对神秘主义颇有感觉。但是这个人,头一摆,肯定地说:'相信神秘主义的人脑子都有点问题。'客户当下脸色就有点不好看。很快,这个人就被炒了鱿鱼。”<o:p></o:p>
十年以前,小戴从机关辞职进了奥美广告,后来又进麦肯光明广告公司。 “十年前的奥美,公司有很多的培训,把公司关起门来不做业务的培训也是有的。现在就很少了,公司和员工都很功利了。其他公司什么都没做,凭什么要给你降价呀。前几天去了一次德国,那边拍一张照片超过1万欧元,也就是8万块人民币;在上海拍一张照片,给800块好啦。其实质量也不是1∶100的差别,这是拒绝这个行业呀。”<o:p></o:p>
“我们自己经营的时候也想做大,但是我觉得这里的办事程序就是要把人变成小业主、小雇员。我们公司扩大注册资金、增加合伙人,申办下来让你觉得就应该原来那样,让每个人都变成一个老板。这样怎么做呢?”戴宇舫说,“上海有点像日本,大公司是日本的经济支柱。过去日本人一定想进大公司,就像上海人也想进大公司找好工作。最好的当然是大家都看得见的美国,允许大公司不断扩张,也给个人创业机会。”<o:p></o:p>
携程网的CEO梁建章说:“我们在开始做网络公司的时候,对高科技人才的依赖还是很重的,这就是北京有优势了。但是现在我们转向成为一个服务公司,上海优势就出来了。无论是呼叫中心的电话生,还是服务经理,我都能在上海找到更多更合适的职员。外资进入中国最大的成本是代理成本,找到合适的代理人很重要,上海是最好的选择。”<o:p></o:p>
有人把上海的商业秩序成熟程度放在北京和香港之间,表明上海至少是一个合格的雇员源。 -<o:p></o:p>
契约之城<o:p></o:p>
上海的历史在哪些方面塑造了这个城市的特性?这显然是个过于庞大的问题,《上海通史》主编熊月之先生简要的概括了四个方面:“一是移民性质,让这个城市充满了竞争力。二是公共意识比较强,近代中国的司法制度,法院、律师都是上海最早出现的,这使得上海人养成了爱论理并且服从管理的特性。三是服务意识,从1843年开始,上海一直是个商业社会,计划经济在其中只是30年,这样一个讲究效率的商业社会使人们有更强的服务意识。第四,这里的人们开拓性不强,大家习惯做职员,是一个职员城市。”<o:p></o:p>
熊先生说,上海开埠之初能接纳外国人,与之通商,是因为这里有更多的商人,他们并不敌视外国人,而同时期的广州,乡绅与官吏的势力大,他们不喜欢洋人。上海历史专家许敏先生说:“上海这个城市是谈判谈出来的,租界的区域在哪里,房子怎么盖,道路要修多宽,许多事情都是这样谈判谈出来。英国人刚开始进来的时候,希望把居留地划在当时的市区以内,因为当时市区的生活条件已经很好了。但道台不同意,觉得与外国人在一起难管理,于是就开始一点点地谈。外滩的这一条路最初就是拉纤用的,后来因为太窄了,要变成一条马路,就又开始协商,钱从哪里来?谁的房子大就多出一点,房子小就少出一点。谈来谈去就成为契约。大家都不认识,通过协商形成公众共识,然后就是大家如何来维护公共意识。这样确定了这个城市的面貌,也形成了上海市民的公众意识。”<o:p></o:p>
1905年,上海城厢内外总工程局董事李平书提出建议,拆掉旧有的上海县城城墙,改建马路,缓解交通,而“城垣保存会”的保守商人不同意。两年后,另有人与“城垣保存会”调解,提出折中方案,不拆城墙,再多开三个城门。 1912年,上海民政部门在商人的要求下批准拆除城墙。从晚清到民国,城墙终于可以拆了,但麻烦接踵而来,一些城壕租户组织“保产公会”阻扰拆墙,当局不得不出面调停;城根下有英国士兵坟墓,也需“外交斡旋”达成“让路换地”;北半城路段与法租界相邻,建成的“民国路”属法、华两界共有,为示区别,路面从中线划开,外半边是长条石,属于法界,内半边铺碎石,属于华界。 <o:p></o:p>
熊月之先生说:“我在美国曾经做过一个演讲,讲的是1897年上海小轮车工人的罢工,那一年,租界的工部局要给小轮车加税。当时的小轮车还没有轮胎,车轮是铁的,工人多装货,一辆小车负重500斤到600斤,这就会破坏租界的街道,那时的街道都是砖石路,工部局要多收200文的税来维护路面,小车工人就罢工,还和租界里的警察发生冲突。上海县的道台是支持小车工人的,道台要和外国领事商量这件事,外国领事对租界内部的事务要和工部局商量,最后各方商议的结果是提高运费100文,再由富人募捐支付另外的100文,租界里的外国人因运费提高不干了,工部局的董事只好全部辞职。这一次罢工反映了这个城市的构成,租界里的管理者与被管理者,华界的管理,彼此的妥协,既要政治手段也要外交手段。上海后来之所以犯罪多,也和这种特殊的管理分不开,谁也不能越界办案,但这其中也包含了对契约的尊重。”<o:p></o:p>
事实上,对契约的尊重也就是对个人财产的尊重。老上海人以英国人马立师的名字指称他所拥有的广阔的地产,哈同的发家传奇也是契约关系的注脚——他以每亩20两银子买下的南京路在租界扩张的过程中涨了2万倍,但这个腰缠万贯的富翁会为了几块钱的房租在灶间里磨几个小时,“上海滩没人敢欠哈同的房租”,这句老话反映了人们的契约意识。哈同死后,他留下的大笔遗产和收养的大队儿女引起很长时间的法律诉讼,他的房产在历史变迁中失去了,却留下一部关于财富和契约的民间教材。 <o:p></o:p>
许敏先生说:“上海的历史传统就是契约意识和谈判意识特别浓厚。上海市民的思维方式和生活方式就和其他城市不太一样,后来上海出了很多外交家,北洋政府里的好多条约也是上海人去谈的。从许多前人留下的笔记中,能看出上海人的历史观和道德观,他们特别推崇那些讲信用的人。比如我读到徐元章的外祖父在'一战'前与德国人做染料生意,'一战'德国战败,德国商人都回去了,一批财产放在他哪里,托他经营。后来德国商人再回来,徐元章外祖父把这些财产全部还给他。许敏说,“不是说所有上海人都这样,但上海人相比外地人还是有一种强调信誉的传统。信誉是公共道德的基础。上海的市民意识建立在这种以信誉为基础的公共关系传统之上,上海人是在这样的商业环境中进行的洗礼,所以做人一般先要弄清自己的位置。他们比较清楚自己应该在什么位置上按公共规则生活,这就是遵守契约对自己与对他人的规定。上海人经常说的两句话是'侬拎得清伐'和'浓晓得自个是啥人? '强调的就是契约规则。有时候它可能引向斤斤计较,但上海人计较得总是很认真。因为上海作为商埠的位置,人与人之间的公共关系决定了它的商业关系,它构成了这个商业城市的基础。 ”-<o:p></o:p>
第一高楼和内衣<o:p></o:p>
南京西路的上海国际饭店,从30年代到80年代初一直是全上海最高的大厦,其顶端的旗杆中心位置曾被当作上海坐标系的“零”。 80年代后,上海“第一高楼”的称号被上海宾馆、联谊大厦、希尔顿饭店、波特曼商城、新金桥大厦轮流“坐庄”。目前坐落在浦东的世界第三高楼金茂大厦,几年后也可能被它的“邻居”——上海环球金融大厦超过。这座停工达4年之久、设计中高达466米的大楼有望成为全球最高楼。 <o:p></o:p>
围绕这座大楼建与不建,一直存在诸多争论,但上海市城市规划设计研究院顾问何善权说,在陆家嘴地区修建三座呈三角形分布的高楼作为浦东、乃至整个上海的标志性建筑,是上海市政府多年前就规划好的方案。相对外滩而言,由于环球中心位于整个建筑群三角形的远角,因此上海市政府认为环球中心在高度上应超过建筑高度420多米的金茂大厦,这样景观透视效果更佳。而目前,造价50亿元的金茂大厦一直被经营不善、收益不佳的传言困扰。 <o:p></o:p>
一位在上海工作的商界人士称:“在上海,只有一家大企业集团,那就是上海市政府。”从三座高楼的构想来看,他的这句话不无道理。 <o:p></o:p>
2001年年底,设计高度333米的浦西第一高楼——世茂国际广场在南京路开工。此前,在一个有众多企业家参与的首届“南京路论坛”上,时任上海常务副市长陈良宇说:“南京路的新一轮改造,标志着它将迎来一个与时俱进的高起点开放与发展的新阶段,意味着入世后的上海商业将会呈现出新的面貌和新的姿态。”<o:p></o:p>
但在2002年2月的上海政协会议上,计划耗资180亿的新一轮南京路改造遭到了质疑。来自上海金融系统的王恒道委员提出,南京路经过1998年的彻底改造,已获得巨大成功。仅时隔4年,政府计划再次投资180亿人民币重新改造南京路一条街,这至少在现阶段是没有必要的。 <o:p></o:p>
然而,上海的思路是把南京路建成具有世界级客流量、世界级商业收入和全球知名度的国际一流的商业街。据悉,一项将南京路全部搭上天棚的工程有可能实施,这显然是模仿意大利城市米兰的维克多·爱曼纽集市。而营造“苏州河文化”的发展就是“黄浦江文化”,更大的构思是“一城九镇”计划,也就是建设松江新城,并把安亭、浦江、高桥、朱家角、奉城等地改造为“荷兰镇”、“意大利镇”、“英国镇”,市政府官员称,“一城九镇”与市区的“万国建筑”相呼应,将进一步体现出上海现代化国际大都市的风采,而参与规划的都将是世界上著名的设计公司。 <o:p></o:p>
上海作家孙甘露说,当初法国夏氏建筑与城市设计事务所设计上海大剧院时,考虑到了与周边环境相和谐的问题,但大剧院建成之后,周边的改造工程也完成了。在城市的高速发展中,一种规划总被新的发展所覆盖。而当周边环境不断变化时,发展往往就变成难以控制的一个越滚越大的圆,要控制它必须要有强有力手段。而手段越强有力,又越可能刺激发展。而在淮海路边长大的作家王安忆说,以前,上海是可以被触摸的,一条淮海路是商业街,但边上小马路小弄堂里都是市民的日常生活,走15分钟路可以买米买菜、可以买衣服看电影,淮海路上一家家店虽然小,却是每一家卖的东西都不太一样,所以逛起来也有味道。现在上海好像也都规范化了,淮海路上的商店越来越一样,城市的半径大了许多,15分钟走路再也搞不定了。 “城市是越来越大,但日常生活的味道正越来越少。”她这样总结。王安忆在谈到现在的城市改造时,用了一句“他们的胆子太大”的感叹。她说,上海的许多马路为什么是弯的,是因为当时修路时考虑到了许多私人的建筑,宁肯让路绕一个弯,也要保护这些建筑。现在是有魄力,有一个想法往往就改了,但这种改造往往就破坏了现有的环境。房子拆了,再也补不回来,许多后果可能要多少年后才让人意识到。孙甘露说:“事实上,上海的拆迁工程里面,包括建高架、淮海路的改造,有许多细枝末节的普通人的代价都被忽略不计了。而大剧院呀、金茂大厦这些都是符号性的东西,跟普通市民的日常生活没有关系,却成为大家幻想性的补偿。它们似乎是生活品质的一个标志,但市民可能只是买过一张门票进去参观了一下,弥补生活中付出的痛苦。”同样是作家的陈村因为在浦东找不到一个能吃夜宵的馄饨铺而发感叹说:“现在上海的许多地方都不是人生活的地方。如果说过去权力对市民生活的挑战只是局部的,那么现在权力与商业相结合,可能会对市民生活全面开战。”而作家顾绍文对现在新建的一些高档商场用了一个形象的比喻:“那种地方高级吗?确实高级。但你去看看,拿机关枪扫一扫,玻璃打得粉碎,一个人不会死的,因为里面根本就没人!”但顾绍文与许多作家一样,在城中心买了漂亮的新房,他也承认,“不过话说过来,现在谁还愿意住到南市的老房子去?那里两家人家之间隔一层木板,每天早上要起来倒马桶!”<o:p></o:p>
迁居北京的学者杨东平认为:“要建世界第一高楼是上海迷恋于外在的、虚幻的建设的体现。现在你站在人民广场看,城市建设杂乱无章的画面是非常惊人的。上海不差巨资改造。上海太有钱了!我听说,上海有一个教育的大手笔,把市区的老名牌学校置换到新城区,成立示范性高中。每个学校投资约一个亿,一共投了十所,很多发达国家来参观,也自愧不如。”这种好大喜功的“形象工程”的做法似乎与这个城市的务实风格并不一致。 2002年3月,上海街头很容易感受到“申博”的气氛,上海申办2010年世博会选定的主题是“Better City,Better Life”(更美的城市,更好的生活)。但是,更好的城市是否一定等于更好的生活呢?这对于每个急速发展的城市都是一个未知问题。 <o:p></o:p>
杨东平说:“其实上海市政府是很会体会民意的。比如说燃放烟花爆竹,北京禁了,上海做了一个民意调查,支持和反对的相等。上海市政府的考虑,要是禁,需要大量的公安人员维持,还要得罪50%的人、出力不讨好。于是干脆不禁,顺应了民意,这是实用主义的体现。再比如交通规则,规定上讲不允许骑车带人,但实际上根本禁不了。上海就比较实惠,规定只要不是在公共交通线上就可以带人,这些地方都表现出充分的灵活性。但反过来讲,政府太强大、太有实力,会形成大政府、小社会的格局,这不是最理想的。我对上海有'新加坡化'的担忧。现在上海没有江洋大盗,但也没有'自然之友'这样有影响的民间组织。没有了特别著名的品牌,过去我们一提起来有'红灯',现在最著名的企业都不在上海,上海好像越来越成为商业中心。上海的民营市场和体制外的市场相对薄弱,尤其是体制外市场,上海没有浙江村,也没有中关村。”<o:p></o:p>
即将在4月1日执行的《上海市市容环境卫生管理条例》对市民晾晒内衣的规定也许正是“新加坡化”的一个样本,上海环保局官员说,上海是个像纽约或者巴黎一样的国际大都市,在街头晾晒衣物会损害上海的形象。同时他们宣传,将内衣裤暴露在交通污染下,可能带来疼痛的皮肤病。政府正考虑设立投放硬币的洗衣机和干衣机等方式,来解决部分民众的难题。 --
Author: shanxitiger