Mysterious Road
Quang Nam, Yunnan heard that last year, found a paradise - dam the United States, radius of 30 square kilometers, surrounded by mountains and surrounded by difficult terrain. Selection of personnel entering and leaving most of the village Cuntou Murao of the two tunnel in order to avoid the pain of going over the mountains. Due to the geographical conditions, limitations, this branch of the original sand Zhuang people rarely travel with the outside world and maintained a warm and hospitable, neighborhood harmony, unity and mutual assistance and self-sufficient peasant economy antiquity Yiyun, a dam across the United States and river village, environment is very beautiful, really is the Land of Peach Blossoms Tao pen reproduction. I could not help but embarked on a searching path.
In the Quang Nam to the Bada of the car my heart is uneasy, that dam in the United States only heard ARCO to an Octopus on the road between the mountains of a certain, Where, only to find himself. I always pay attention to street signs, not found; asked selling tickets, and she has not heard of; now know what to do, beside a young man pointing me to get off Farley, a question can be found.
I am a man standing on the empty road, on both sides of a mountain, a small stream at the foot of flowing water's edge just a few kids playing, and they point to let me go on winding paths, and soon Lu-yu an old man, when the He knows I'm going to dam the United States once said that he was boatman, you can enjoy what I am village really could wish for.
On the left is a small village, but also the old boatman's home village is called and water tunnel. The right is the swift river, called out River is a dam downstream of the US River. Linshui the roadside into a centuries-old banyan tree and bamboo pieces, a group of children playing with a few turkeys, he saw a long list of outsiders to run to the village. Front of the sound of roaring water, there waterfalls, pier at the top level as a mirror of the waterfall. There is a huge faint bottomless black hole, near the triangle narrow high, 56 meters wide and up to 10 meters, which is a water tunnel. Naked swim to the hole the old boatmen dragged the boat over, we hit the road.
Many cave dripping water fall from the sky Let me propped up an umbrella, I gradually came down and surrounded by dark, the light came in the hole getting smaller and smaller, only the sound of Penny's punting of water, as well as the bat's calls, reaching not see five fingers, the slightest Pumian Liang Qi. The boat is about 15 minutes, the old boatman said that soon to be bright, and a bend in the front surface of the water turned out to light up a light beam from heaven point in the water a huge reef Guangrun, so shiny translucent stone, splashed the water came the sound through the the daylight, you can see the hole Yashang the Ivy League, then that is a big slope, top of the hill on a sky-hole. In the middle of the river here, there two boulders, forming a narrow boat is only for one channel, fast-flowing, rocks everywhere, or drop, the old boatman would take a great effort only scrape by. I have been in front of all of the shock, Kuanggu deep, gods, seems to be the dawn of days split, leaving a masterpiece. Is two days after another hole, so that our journey is full of magic, the old boatman said that if it is morning or winter, the holes which have a lot of mist, which really has become a Fairy Cave, the cave is full of spring swallows twitter in hand children can shine as large as the electric fish playing in the side of the ship, the first one days under the piece of rock in the hole grew bigger and ... ... unwittingly hole up.
Really suddenly see the light, the present is a small village surrounded by mountains, going against the commencement River is Shilihualang: water tankers, Bambusa Multiplex, Bazi, taolin, rice fields. I abandon the shore, onto the country lane, and gradually integrate into the Zhuang zhaiba pastoral scenery in the United States.
Wall street is a slanting fence around the harvest of paddy fields, the fields of the country girls nod and smile to me, loud greetings, built along the hillside to walk out of the Zhuang people Diaojiaolou me stop and wait and see, there are wearing rain hats and bandannas Green cloth Zhuang wearing peasant clothing oncoming Dan Zhao bamboo basket. Down the stone steps on the hill, I found the old boatman, led by the village of accounting at home.
Seems to eat at home
This house is located in the mountainside, is a two-story small building, brick-wood structure, the kitchen is located outside the house. I am always so sudden, in the face of my strangers, accounting, home 45-year-old baby girl afraid to cry, the hostess began busy, less than a moment, I have to see her in the back of the feather. King Tong Peiliang man of the house, from a living room a "self-defense of the Vietnam War, third class" of the certificate knows, the walls are several pictures of him a military uniform. Two in the afternoon, the men have returned crafts, Huang accounting is more than 30-year-old male beauty Retention 3 strand beard, let me think of Lin's image, words small, gentle. And his brother, Qidi, nephews, Tourism Xiao Guo, etc. together for a meal of.
Main dish is a bowl of clear soup boiled bamboo shoots, pumpkin, the rest are around each one, with radish, duck, noodles, oil and boil for a short peanuts, as well as brewed rice wine, mostly native mountains. Zhuang Jia food tastes light, not non-acid-salt is not hot enough sweet spices and oil release as little as possible, with a genuine spring water transferred out of food. Especially the main courses that did not put any salt and MSG, bamboo shoots, fresh and tender but slightly bitter taste, astringency can be removed with just pumpkin, fresh bamboo shoot my favorite grand a delicious food. Did not expect much in Yunnan Zhuang Autonomous Region can eat our southern taste, taste better, a good stomach discomfort. Only numerous Jiu Li, then 45 degrees although the sweet rice wine, a few mouthfuls of Xiadu blush I have a. Fortunately, the Huang brothers and not drinking any alcohol, according to Zhuang house rules, the owner must first respect the guests three cups, so I am not a drunk is not. Drink is rice, fragrant rice soup with bamboo shoots to eat Ban Zhao, straight eat 16 o'clock on the table without leaving any leftovers, the next meal do fresh, which in turn, and my family used to like. During which they told me Pa Mei lived in 118 628 people have Lai, Huang, Nong, Xu, Li, Zhou and Yang with seven surnames, ancestors leader Nong Zhuang Zhi Song remnants of a high and so on, their attitude is moderate , I am really a kind of feeling at ease at home.
Walking Land of Peach Blossoms
They went to work in the fields, I am slightly tipsy walk outside the house in front of a platform for an excellent viewing platform, you can beheld distant cliffs of the mountains, fork-shaped dam of adult America River , and aerial networks of paddy fields, in twos and threes playing the millet harvest farmers, lug baskets of rice lining up to Tang Shui Man of the Zhuang people across the river, near the village primary school playground, village houses, bamboo, banyan, gut paths, looking down from above glance.
Dam down going against the US River Tourism Xiao Guo accompanied me as guides. Roads are repaired just before the year 51, the paved stone. Through the elementary school playground, the first millennium saw was the ancient banyan tree, the villagers called the "perennial tree", there were spirits in the lofty position of the roots covered with hundreds of square meters of land, the trunk needs 45 people to hold Long, leaves as the canopy cover half the sky, every year the Spring Festival should worship tree trees, moonlight nights sitting under the tree can see the love of youth, the roots are ground into a bench-like seats are several. America River Dam splashed flow, a Road Bazi to raise the water level fell everywhere in the formation of a water tankers merry way rotating constantly irrigated with water to a height field. Lazy to lay the old sow feeding the pig scramble, children jump naked from the trees the water, swam to the other side, but also the collective diving, swim over and then climbing diving, reminiscent of Qunhou playing in the water. Really said was right, in front of the cliffs is the "monkey climbing cliff," a few hundred meters of the cliff grass, often in groups of monkeys in this haunt. Xiao Guo said the bar three or four groups, each group of more than a hundred. Alert monkeys, timid, so I chose a late morning action; monkey brings a greedy, in the autumn often Baogu mature to steal the most easy to see. Cliff there is a "monkey crawl holes," US-river dam while piercing before, is the monkeys drinking place. They live in the mountains cliff cave, crossing where there is discipline, although very noisy, the Monkey King standing height alert whenever there is a sign of trouble, a whistle the whole Feiyanzoubi retreat, looks somewhat like greenwood bandits, but are not afraid of women and children. The mountains there is a long body like a cat with wings flying fox, often glide between the cliff, with the improvement of the economic value of flying fox, and constantly mountains outside the Hmong to poaching, now far fewer. After a "monkey climbing cliff," to see the mountains around his waist there have been cattle drive who climbed over the mountain Xiao Guo said there is a high mountain pastures, the village in the lush summer grass rush to feed the cattle, which can make use of existing resources saves the feed at the same time put an end to the Exploitation of crops and cattle, so good at climbing a mountain village, mostly cattle. If there are elderly people at home, they will be built at the foot of the mountain huts, ducks in the rice paddies repair shed, old people go to bed at night to have dinner during the day, everywhere we only hear the calls of chickens and ducks not seen his shadow, the original rice fields are deep in the woods looking for food to eat, so that livestock away from home, he changed the Zhuang people live upstairs downstairs the traditional pig cattle Diaojiaolou life, health, economy, full use of resources and dams in the United States was indeed a civilized villages.
Come back already evening, and an increasing number of rice farmers lug home, the river began to send people taking a bath. Inadvertently saw 78 teenage girls stood naked torrent frolic, they are under the beautiful sunset silhouette curve of people behind it, rather than the date when the rejection is not psychologically prepared long hair Gengrang I am deeply shocked, walked up and down men will not undermine their feelings, but added clothes on my external man know what to do. Zhuang Xiao Guo said that this is a major feature - a bath, Zhuang Village built on a river must Arita a beautiful place, regardless of seasons, take a bath every day compulsory homework, regardless of men and women, all naked in the river bathing, They have become accustomed. In the dam the United States, at least using the natural formation of river bifurcation convention of men and women River River, while in the United States River Dam soup to take the village, men and women combined bath. Looking at undisguised nature of these people, are so real and harmony, and I seem to return to the childhood of humanity ... ...
Talked about under the moonlight
Dam in the United States is not electricity, and we enjoy candlelight dinners every day, in my stay there the next day, Bada village down a working group has been arranged in the yellow accounting home village for dinner. The man surnamed Wang, conduct expansive, I heard that I was from Shanghai, said he was twenty years to go before, as representatives of Soong Ching Ling Zhuang, Yunnan Province, a memorial service, and later also went to Beijing have received an audience with Hu Yaobang, to put it smug . Of his trip to dam the US propaganda kinds of loquat seeds presented the township government. Or, as always, fresh sumptuous dinner, the village chief, deputy village chiefs have come and alcohol over San Xun, we then began to increased recently.
On, then they say that this bar! Wong, the accounting is brewed with corn. Although rice Dam America, the per capita farmland is only one-third, also an acre of more than 1,200 jin per mu of millet, rations are not enough, so corn wine. Corn did not taste of food, wine is even better than rice, because the wine will be sweet, and the remaining rice wine residue residue compare, pigs prefer to eat the former. Person outside the village to buy wine for the wild wine, the wine is home-brewed liquor, usually wild wine is not on the table for. House wine was divided into high (45 degrees) and low (25 degrees), low-alcohol wine to sell out a high degree of alcohol to drink. Also enjoyable because of the high alcohol wines can not compete with low stamina strong, unlike the low-alcohol wine to drink when excessive alcohol is not easy because the water more volatile and a drunk unconscious.
Mayor met with the Chinese told me that in fact most of the dam in the United States are self-sufficiency in production and daily life: food with rice-based, mountain Baogu mainly wine and feed livestock, vegetables and fruits from species of bamboo into a film, tender bamboo shoots can be dug three quarters of , the old bamboo baskets can be compiled tools, fruit tea growing oilseed rape to be vegetable oil and kerosene, cotton spinning weaving, dyeing with leaves and wildflowers, with paddy mud bricks in a house built boat for the rich river dam to bring the United States an inexhaustible supply of fish and shrimp. Although it is not electricity, the village make full use of water resources along the river with abundant water in the dam was built 18 US-Bazi 32 water tankers, making higher than the river bed can be irrigated paddy fields.
The village is not without modern civilization. Last week, the recently completed household water connection works, the Government has pulled funding from a kilometer away from the water pipes to the village, the villagers were using unsolicited last spring. Evening was also put video, there was no electricity how it fitted? Two years ago, someone who has bought a pump generator, only a very small hydro-Yi Gu televisions and DVD players will be able to drag, so that a start had placed the video small business. Usually martial arts films or romance films, each of four corners, generally put four to six sets per night. Also bought a satellite antenna to receive television programs, if there is an important news or Chinese New Year party and the like, watching TV is free. In this connection, changed the way people can sing folk songs or chat at the lonely life, video hot business. Has also opened three, fierce competition, four became two. The village opened a small shop 4, yellow is one of the accounting family, usually their own house, open a window, to sell cigarettes, beer, toothpaste, towels and other small daily necessities, there is no sign without a license, if not by the people pointing hard to find, really The convenient service. Have a private contractor's rolled rice machine driven by diesel engines, each 100 jin rolling the cost of rice is 2 yuan, coincided with harvest season, business is very good.
I am most interested in the last millennium outside the earth-shaking changes, which affected the real reason for it is minimal, should outsiders do not always know? Hookah smoking by a Lebanese village that mainly the unique geographical environment, surrounded by mountains, roads difficult, thanks to a tunnel into a two, but do not know who the face of the deep bottomless hole, no guts unauthorized entry. Feng shui ancestors chose this piece of treasure, so that generations of Americans worry about food and clothing industrious dam to form a more perfect small-scale peasant without the need for contact with the outside world, isolated villagers to cultivate the calm life of easy-going personality, coupled with Zhuang There has always been the tradition of hospitality, guests come, no matter where you come from, into the house, will not let you have no food and no bed to sleep, good food wine as much as possible hospitality. Occasional outsiders into the U.S. water, beautiful face more beautiful mountain retreat from the world is often deeply moved, came out will take the initiative secrecy, fear of chaos outside the morals of war damage Napian a paradise for living, injury, such as family members to be their own good villagers. One year on such a repeated farming men and women weave a tranquil life, is the "village Chinese a few days, the world has been the Millennium."
Moonlight played on the playground open village meeting, Wang, head of the work to introduce the loquat cultivation methods, heard that the Government free of charge to send the seeds we are all happy, talking about the threes. 3 Farley complete primary school down to the young teacher, the village chief was busy reception. Vague under the banyan trees there are couple of shadow, diffuse the mist of the river dam America flicker Yuet Wah, the small quiet village, such as a virgin ... ...
The village primary school is the hope of the United States dam
Dawn to see the fog, after dinner went to see a number of primary school teachers, the circular bar has been written on the blackboard to pay tuition fees notice: 1 year 58.6 yuan, 49.5 yuan second grade, third grade, 57.8 yuan, they are busy quarters and office the tuition fees. Dam in the United States primary schools primary school, only to three-year, three classes, three teachers each teach one grade complete primary school under the jurisdiction belonging to Farley. As the popularity of Putonghua needs, this semester dam elementary school teachers in all of the United States replaced just graduated young teachers, due to acute shortage of teaching staff, only one of three new teachers graduated from the Normal School, the other two are graduates of the school fiscal . One year the introduction of bilingual teaching, Mandarin and Zhuang cross-lectures.
Ms. Huang told me that the children's enthusiasm for school is still very high, in the early morning hurried parents to pay tuition, up to now has collected more than two dozen people, and I also noticed that kids like the school gathered in the playground on the door, Once the pay the fee, holding book companion skipped out immediately the envy of many pairs of eyes surrounded by the naive. Last semester there are several outstanding students, at least the most under-four dollars less than forty dollars in arrears up to the students that house last night, has put the teacher in the past to eat, and said it was ill family economic hardship, the village people food and clothing that is not how much money, eating other people's soft in the mouth, the teacher is also a farmer born, can not run away "compassionate grounds" the word, children must attend school, can not be forced rush. However, teachers are not wealthy, so they took Ms. Huang, the time when teachers are poor students, I also owe Qi Baqian loan before graduation, but also the wife and kids, 600 a month wages in a rigid Education, no guarantee on time payment. 3 teachers Ba Jiuyue all the money to buy teaching materials mat, and they rely on tuition fees received from a temporary to get by, until the end of September for Education, a replacement will their salaries. Quang Nam is the poorest counties in Yunnan, one of the many disasters, they always have one or two months a year in wages as a contribution and less fat. But those who desire to see the mountains Wazi school, teachers still do its utmost to help.
Village and the facilities are very primitive, the school bell automotive inner tubes of the steel ring, looks quite neat classroom light inside the dark, neither of the table a small chairs, blackboard and mottled, the teacher's dormitory addition to beds and tables are nothing, they are all-powerful, In addition to the completion of the teaching, but also tinkering, vegetables and firewood, all kinds of problems to solve on its own, it is inconceivable for us, but it is the teacher's real-life village.
Teachers are beginning to develop curriculum, and make full use of bright light during the day school, the parents pulled their children one after another have come Contributions ... ...
I left the dam beautiful morning, just at the primary level of the opening ceremony, the parade ground lined the neat rows of students, teachers lead students in the five-star red flag with the singing of the national anthem slowly rising, sitting, boat dam America gradually blurred, Lang Lang reading sound reverberating in the valley ... ...
Author: photoman