June 21,22 Day: Lijiang - Lugu Lake drowning Village - Lijiang
Program run-length line of traffic when the lake is a big problem: If you take bus, then sat down Ninglang Xian was the first from the city of Lijiang, and then transfer to the Lugu Lake, may catch one day, so that alone would have two on the road back and forth day. And we were so time is limited, in particular, Inagi trip, Inagi informed that the county government, county due to repair the road to Aden, and only open on weekends only during road for vehicular traffic, taking into account June 30 is a Saturday, we need to In the 29, rushed to the Inagi, can the next day into the Gulf of Aden - of course, and finally to the Inagi to know whether such restrictions are fundamentally no - In so doing, we budget for the lake only two days time, so this section of track We have chartered. This is also prompted us to pack the car under the master Liu important reason.
Lijiang to Ninglang would have been of old, alleged that poor road conditions, dust, driving was eight or nine hours to get to, and now repair a new road, a road could be shortened to three hours, plan July 1 opening, but in fact has now been basically completed, so the master plan Liu took us to sneak the new path. In order to avoid the intersection of the traffic police, we have to rush to open before 9:00 intersection before the police posts. Of course, this is also risky: the road, after all, is not entirely finished one, it is likely to encounter on the road somewhere, did not complete a trouble, we have to backtrack again from the old path, so that losses may become significant. So, when we entered the new road starting at eight, when the heart is still a bit jittery.
From the new road is completely out of the vast mountain chisel, in order to climb to the summit from the foot, often to come back and forth circled Shanghao laps, time-consuming effort, the speed is slow. As the winding mountain road repair some of the Federation of damage vegetation, winding roads of earth and rock at the top of the lack of support and protection of plant roots and become hidden dangers of accidents, once the heavy rain or earthquakes, ranging from soil erosion downstream siltation down the road, or loose small rocks to drop down ; weight is the formation of large rocks falling down a landslide, or landslide incidents, completely blocking roads. Because the relationship between the rainy season, these incidents are more recent, we have encountered two small debris deposited along the road, as to hit a small stone on the road are numerous, depriving the car I was always looking forward to opening the faster the better on the assumption stoning down the chances are equal in time, then the way along the road, the shorter the time spent being a rock smacked the lower the chances.
I worry about the same time, Liu was also worried about the master. He was concerned before there are any major accident caused by impassable, thanks to front and eventually opened to a few more as we advance the use of the highway bus, Liu master was a sigh of relief: Now able to open them to come to illustrate the previous Road is Messenger.
Opened about an hour, we climbed to the top of the hill, saw the foot of the mountain due to sediment erosion during the rainy season turned into a yellow river, which is the Yangtze River, because the folder with alluvial gold, which is also known as the Jinsha River section. Although you can see them but there is still a long walk, may go on a lap around the enclosure, along the way encounter a lot of construction, 1.1 points moved the past, together they spent half an hour. To a tree in front of the end of the town, we are here through the Jinsha River.
The Jinsha River in northwest Yunnan and the Nu River, Lancang River flows parallel to the south known as the "Three Parallel Rivers." The Nu River and Lancang River all flow into the Southeast Asian countries, to become the Salween and the Mekong River, nourishing the local people; only the Jinsha River in the town of Shek Kwu lurches violently turning a 150-degree bend, U-turn to the northeast flow, and forced into the tall cloud between the Haba Snow Mountain and the Yulong Snow Mountain to open a narrow gap to only 30 meters - Tiger Leaping Gorge, from all the way north into the east, the torrents into the sea, do not return. It can be said: there is no such "Yangtze River First Beach," there will be no more than 10 provinces throughout China, the Yangtze River, China's mother river of the people of the Yangtze River completely and not now the case.
We are in the trees at the end of the town of Tiger Leaping Gorge is a breakthrough in the Yangtze River, launched after the break the power of Man-lots, drop little water is not very swift, but walk through the mountains between the river narrower can still see the river from time to time filled with undercurrents and whirlpools. There is a bridge, built in the liberation, for the old-fashioned straight cable-stayed bridge, bearing a lower no-load bus to cross the bridge. So we filed out, and pounded the wooden bridge board, crossed the Jinsha River in Shuishuixiaoxiao. By Jiang Wang Dan's light, I am waiting for the opening slow car over, when the rough forget about boredom, which is itself 21 times over the Yangtze River, is a lot of money; but it is the first time off the Jinsha River, and finally there is a little bit of pride, a great sense of country people to climb the Great Wall of a house after a tour of the pride of this - only an inscription on the bridge to avoid a strike!
Driving through the tree at the end, business resumed. This section is still set to go endless mountain and began energetically also looked at the lofty mountains and the winding of the Jinsha River, cultivate the patriotic sentiments, was really looking tired, and knew the fell asleep. Even the best scenery, has seen a lot will be tired, such as the former go to Huangshan to see the sea of clouds, just to see when you cheered, and later switch to a day in the Peak, to see the mountains as seen Shougang clouds of smoke came out of the chimney like , that feeling is no - oh, wrong, should not undermine the good opinion the situation in the capital's Olympic bid, it seems like a very heavy pollution. Should say: Shougang is not Kai Guo Jie, and can not be expected emissions - this is not good, it should be said that Shougang's pollution control equipment, particularly cattle, out of the smoke is gray, and the days of one color, simply do not see them.
I am in this position is probably the best location of the car, on the door next to fall asleep can actually feel. The brothers sat in the back could be enough of a crime: The entire trip is not a lot of asphalt pavement is very bumpy, sitting in front of is not an issue back then was played so loudly powerful, let alone to sleep, and even their seats to sit unstable. I am sorry several times, like with the rear of the Shu-hui, Toshio change seats, are they wan be extinguished, and said I was the organizer, sitting in front of more convenient communication with the master Liu, in fact, of course, take care of me, in this appreciation is not do.
So I slept in Ninglang way, probably around noon, and then continue to open more than an hour, where a number of low mountains, a one of Bazi also many up and often you can see the road behind the backs of a colossal Black generous licensing Yi women. Climbed over a mountain, the immediate consternation showing a tranquil lake, where is our destination of the Lugu Lake.
Lugu Lake is the Moso people's ancestral home, and now two-thirds of Yunnan Province Ning Langxian Yongning Township under the jurisdiction of Sichuan Province is a third pipe. Kublai Khan in the 13th century large-scale unified Mongol cavalry outflanking detour to bypass the Southern Song Gongmie Dali, to form a strategic encirclement of the Southern Song Dynasty. After here, the Kublai Khan in the mountains among the pommel horse, under a sudden to see that Lawton Yihong pure serene blue lake water, that feeling of relief than those of us who sat only six-hour coach who presumably only be more Shuang Chang. So here, named Kublai to make Yongning, take "generations to come to upload, EON peace" was intended.
Mosuo people most familiar to the world of course, is its "walking marriage" system - men and women free love, emotional maturity then the woman allowed the man spent the night in her room during the day still in their mother's family of production of crafts, once the emotional breakdown immediately stop contacts ; if there are children from the woman's family, upbringing, using the woman's surname. Such a unique structure of the family for many years been attracting domestic and foreign social scientists to study this study, but because here is located in remote areas which, combined with Moso ethnic group is small (in its colonies around 7000, however Yongning), for many years been was incorrectly classified as Naxi 1, until 90 years before they adopted a resolution in the Yunnan Province called the "Mosuo people" to distinguish it from the Naxi, but still not win the status of an independent nation.
Yongning the remote mountainous region, the economy is backward, and fell into the water along the road by the early nineties began the systematic development of tourism in the village, and now the conditions of the village than a decade ago has been a great leap forward: visitors can live in the water there Village row upon row of family hotels, enjoy Mosuo dishes, sitting Mosuo people canoe tour Lugu Lake, and Mosuo people Guozhuang evening to sing and dance as well as with the traditional Moso girl wrestling match. At the same time, fell into the sea near the small, mouth area have also been developed, but overall the region is still quite poor and backward. Because of inconvenient transportation, the number of visitors are not many.
The highway to the village fell into the water far, we stopped at the entrance to the village. Learned from the User where the assessment is "involved the village is too commercialized," had intended to travel a number, to a small fell into the water, or mouth, but suffered from lack of time, more than two in the afternoon arrived at noon the next day had to rush back , so we decided to live in the village fell into the water. Tickets here is 33 yuan, Liu master out of the car on the conductor that we are students of Yunnan University for Nationalities, leave over collecting folk songs, and I think that listening to blowing a little bit mysterious, hurriedly took out my ID card Peking University - This status card all the way to a lot of money for the province - that I was Beijing University graduate student, with the national college student over a vehicle inspected national culture. It seems Beida brands seem to have had little impact, conductor uncle let us sell eight tickets 12 individuals were considered students Qizhe concessions bar.
Entered the village fell into the water is a dirt road, next to the lake. We live in the "Moso's home" 25 yuan per person per bed. Which is basically the same in fact living, are beyond repair master in the main house for guests to stay in a special small building of the Mosuo looked very ethnic flavor, but the room is the same as standard rooms across the country layout. Of our rooms facing the lake, arty's I can not help looking forward to starting the next day woke up bathed in the morning lying on the lake ripples of good things to look at just a daze of not more than two seconds were all pulled down their lunch. Here a very romantic meal may not matter, we face a critical problem: a traditional food here - Zhu Biaorou.
"Traditional food" was often linked, the question is "traditional" may not necessarily be a "gourmet", especially for the stranger is. Zhu Biaorou is so well-known productions: to kill a big plump pigs, the organs and bones removed, placed in a large number of pepper, salt, and then stitched up the status quo ante the pigs, to find a place to put one in 2035 ventilation - Mummy that is done out of - and then put out with mummy to cook the food. No one can bite mummy was moving, so the cook must first be placed before the water bubble, bubble that does not had a chance to energetically less hard-boiled, boiled to chew was moved again and serve.
I do not know of you who put on this disc are interested in fat years, anyway I'm not a little, it seems others did not. But the dish is good and bad people's housekeeping vegetables, a few years before you can do well out - the longer the shelf it the more I nausea - So many of us do not touch does not seem that way for the customer, Moso here also be good, if it was Zhuang, Jingpo what he thought the best thing for you to eat, but you refused to eat, but the knife into the red to white out the knife. So I Dagehaha announced that Chi Feirou my favorite, and then began to eat up Niezhebizai. The problem is fat this stuff used is not able to deal with Niezhebizi, few or bad throat and mouth began to react, and probably a small tongue Alice up as a conscious physiological responses to resist me to continue to do my best way for the customer, the results of someone like me who has always upheld the great unity of people of all nationalities enthusiasts had to give up.
After dinner we strolled forward to going to the lake to sit Zhu Caochuan lake. Zhucao Chuan is a kind of canoe, Mosuo people sitting in the boat to the lake fishing plants pigs, fed a fat pig feed tourists shouting. . . . . . I was not another misspeak it? Of course, to visitors sitting Zhu Caochuan great many, even the two sailors can sit down and 10 individuals, we have 12 individual packets of the two boats, 25 yuan per person, me and Helen, Toshio, De Kun, Xue-Quan, Jian-yu a boat, a man and a woman two Mosuo people a front and rear center of the lake paddling paddle towards the island. The island has a lamasery and a toast to the grave, according to Shu-hui's description: This chieftain's son to go to Tibet when monks study Buddhism, and before leaving home, before it portrayed an artist to let him carry around Figure volumes, probably the same today, pictures of the record is a different matter. When the artist painted this island has nothing on this island, in order to add a little picture he had painted a temple and a tombstone. Later, the monks return to their homeland, his father had passed away, in order to commemorate his father and all these events, he determined to become a reality view this piece of fiction, which built the temple on the island, as well as his father's grave. As for his own money or with his father when the toast, when people are forced to pay the money to his family, or do not have to spend money simply to die is to repair the tomb of the old toast the name of the command Xiumiao people with canoes 1.1 points, pulling wood stone to the construction of this on a desert island, I do not know, and Shu-hui apparently not looked into these economic problems. But at least one thing is clear: the lama non-productive and, in theory, there is no income, unless the Dalai Lama, the kind of mingled level, there is nothing the big toast following a small toast toast in a medium to hold people's blood and sweat dedicated to him, what he needs fresh eyes of people who intestines do "ritual" could immediately "gathered" to.
Lamasery and toast the tomb rather crude, nothing to see more of, on the Tibetan temple, there are detailed later, there will not talk about it. In short think that the so-called middling ride Zhu Caochuan Lake blue lake is a beautiful place where a very deep, preferably slowly walk along the lake to experience the share of only your own feelings, sitting boat floating in the lake straight into the wind is not up to much, not that those who deserve to recommend.
After dinner, we go to 8 o'clock start Guozhuang party. Guozhuang evening in the southwest fraternal peoples common form of traditional entertainment, all to join hands and form a circle around the fire dancing, dance less complex, it is easy to learn, but once the fast-paced up and may not adapt, will be caught unprepared, physical consumption will be relatively large. First, the whole evening Guozhuang Mosuo themselves dancing, and then pulling tourists dancing with the final duet with the tourist folk songs. A total of one and a half hour, form fairly lively, not how the tourists may be seen singing and dancing minorities prefer, I personally feel quite general, that those who do not deserve to recommend.
From Guozhuang evening out, a lot of tents along the way Zhaqi selling snacks, the most famous of course, the lake's food Zhu Biaorou and grilled fish. Have long enjoyed the reputation of the Zhu Biaorou I do not say so-called grilled fish is a fish from the lake where the fire and finish the baking and roasting, there is no taste of what office is not worth the subsequent were recommended.
Is almost necessary in this one "should not be" in silly to go back to sleep, when my words like silence of a meteor across the night sky, bright dazzling light throughout the Lugu Lake travel, Guanghua.
That sentence is: "Who wants to cup of coffee?"
Suddenly everyone's eyes are staring a very large, Shu-hui beautiful big eyes almost pop-up to: "You said there is also a cafe?"
"Of course, do not think there is a backwater, here there is a quite ambience of the coffee shop, supply Yunnan's specialty - arabica coffee, taste very good. Gengrang you think of is this: China's informatization level has been reached in such a far away from the small village of modern civilization have a degree of public network infrastructure. "
We looked at each other, almost do not believe they hear.
I went on to say: "There is a tea shop owner is a couple of Sichuan, tea's name is called..."
"Lake thinking", a Moso girl smiling to pick up a wind generally passed from us, and victims of romance even standing there for a long time, but finally let Helen, Shu-hui, Toshio, Xue-Quan, and Jian-yu thinking of pulling the lake to look for.
Fell into the water village is only a dirt street, all the houses along the lake in a row, so it is easy to find the lake thinking teahouse. Tea has two floors, the ground floor is a bar and cafe and second floor of the room can be permanent. The second floor there is a very nice furnished room bordered by a lake, the walls hung with a variety of animal skins, hunting rifles and other items as well as the Lugu Lake, Inagi scenery along the Chao, the casual row of shelves with a lot of books, many of which are to my appetite. (Unfortunately, nowadays is full, if the bar around the "petty bourgeoisie" who may not find them here to those obsessed with beautiful scenery, Dura Ailing category of stuff, really quite sorry) want to find a book, to the bedside table side of a depending on, you can book in a dialogue with the lakes and mountains, enjoy the quiet life, and I was uneducated, sit still, you see the boss grinding coffee beans. The boss called Tang Bin, from Sichuan, with his wife fell in love with Yang after the bamboo came to the lake here, so he put aside other things, in settling here. Smoothly opened a teahouse, a convenient city to tourists, but also can make more friends.
Lugu Lake to read on the internet called before the Huashan weeks after their visit to Hong Kong people to Lugu Lake, a book published in fragments, which fell into the village talking about the future of their traditional culture, tourism, huh the impact of the problem, I would Tang Bin brought to this book. Tang Bin continues Mozhuo coffee, saying softly: Are you saying that book a Mountain, Huashan I lived here for three months, then this book is written here.
Tang Bin, and then talked three or four hours are all about the Moso people's problems, for me, quite harvest, limited travels genres, inconvenience at this more narrative. From the travelers point of view, it's words seemed to me that opens the door leading to a different door to a better world, but I can only peek inside North Korea were busy-looking but thwarted, for his stay here only one day, not in-depth exchanges with the Mosuo people are very regrettable. Finally, the trip to Lugu Lake conclusion is: This is a must stop and stay for some time and in-depth understanding of their distant culture, social structure, value system where, as we have come and gone this is purely a sightseeing nature of tourists, if not to Lake I think doing a long talk, we can say without any sense.
Before his departure to the Tang Bin Zhou Huashan bought this book "without father and husband of the country? . " Zhou Yuan University of Hong Kong assistant professor of sociology in recent years has been in China for gender studies, this book was published in March 2001, the title inside the question mark is important, because "Lugu Lake is a non-parent non-fu state, "This proposition is wrong. Unfortunately, this book is printed on a question mark at the spine, the most important cover is lacking. In addition, the book's binding quality of people flattered by one to see the back cover of a printing houses in Beijing, and too detrimental to the overall quality of this book, as well as the publisher Guangming Daily Publishing House's good name.
Night without incident, slept a Lanjue next morning, went to Lake spent a thought on the bus back to Lijiang by. Lugu Lake tour, also in the rush to the hasty conclusion
Author: stallion