Come to Lijiang, the first night, we have six people waiting for dinner party to revert to the destination of the first leg, because, taking into account the weather factor, decided to first on the Yulong Snow Mountain, because only one half-year, a few can be on the Yulong Snow Mountain, the wind or the mountain snow weather, ropeway not open. Last year, Chinese New Year, one of my colleagues encountered such bad weather, and so on for a long time when you go to Zhongdian, can not go up and come back Shiyou specially went to, cable still open.
In discussing the second stop is to go to the lake or the choice of Zhongdian, we finally decided to first go to the lake. Reason:
1, with fewer people go to the lake, especially in Shanghai, we come to when you have not yet heard that a friend was been around, I feel somewhat mysterious, although seen on television documentaries.
2, I heard that the road is hard enough, the original thought to be a full day's journey, climbed over a mountain seat, choose the more difficult journey if they can withstand this test, and for us to go beyond whether or Zhongdian Meili Snow Mountain (which is in Shanghai Plan trips, one) made a judge to see whether the body can withstand. I physically can, that is particularly severe motion sickness, before the very few trips, each time traveling before going to the next great determination, this excursion has been a three-year plan, to see the surrounding colleagues, friends in the past few a one-year tour in Yunnan, there are friends or even go two consecutive years, Lijiang, and other places really envy.
While living in the Lugu Lake Mosuo people opened the hotel's owner, has always been busy doing things that almost did not tell us the two words, a red scarf wrapped in their face, only to reveal a pair of tired eyes. They went out at home, never to speak aloud. Into the owner's principal room, his eyes a dark, inside there is a fire burning, burning fire on a pot of water, water bottles has been smoked too dark. The only one room is a television valuables. Fireside sitting an old man, remote control in hand, is watching television. My friend from the room without TV, but also particularly like to watch the match, so we, under the leadership of the driver, venture into the owner's legal wife. Driver and the old man with a show of a few that we do not understand the Tibetan language, took over from his remote control, told us that he was the old man said that we work television factory in Shanghai, specialized to do TV, and He finally agreed to put the remote control to us. It seems that TV is their family's most valuable assets.
On horseback and by Zhu Caochuan, we learned that their village every day, out of one person, one, three, five rowing, two, four, six Qian Ma, one person to participate in bonfire night party, Sun may decide , you can rest, you can also boating, or Qian Ma. Of work very regularly, they feel very fair.
Bonfire night is also held by the Lake Ge Jia Hotel in turn, host a nightly rotation. That day to come here more than 100 tourists, mostly from Simao and Sichuan Panzhihua City, compared with far fewer than 1,000 people during the tourist season. Everyone around the campfire while watching the Mosuo young men and women dancing, while chatting. A middle-aged man from Guangdong, said he came here three days, and to a nearby village visits were very happy that he's a one in, the hostess come up with bacon entertain him and took him to Qianma riding games wrestling, one fell and before, they are on the two together. Near the end of evening, we competed with the local well-known female singer or a lead dancer of the men posed for pictures, there are female tourist on behalf of the peer-to express love for her male colleagues of Italy, not far from someone pointing a result, we do not know , because the program is to take the marriage goes on, only the parties that there was clear what would happen. We dispersed the crowd as he walked back to hotel, the lake there are several fenced off with a cloth gear, eating grilled fish, and Moso men a day changed cautious, and less language, attitude, enthusiasm for the invitation, the original night belongs to their. As in Lijiang have heard, and now Mosuo men are very open, eating grilled fish, the cold-called to ask you one: "LET'S GO TO BED"! Really startle you. Therefore, we declined their invitation to go back to a rest room.
The next morning, we will be riding in the lake, and Qian Ma's Mosuo people chatting, the original young people are not all Mosuo open, some people still go to the 24-year-old marriage, just as Han people in the older teens . Of course, people who sing and dance for young people to pursue more, coupled with development of tourism in recent years, outside of their traditional culture shock for many, especially young people, more receptive to foreign cultures. Work during the day, those boys in the mother or sisters under surveillance, it is inevitable cautious by nature, living a traditional life, but at night, men can drink with friends, but also to take the marriage, again before dawn to return to their home. As time is limited, unable to deeper understanding of them, we left the lake with regret.
Since we ultimately did not go to Meili Snow Mountain, there are 3 days to enjoy Lijiang, southern scenery, rest look tired body, sitting in the sun where the river, in the ancient city where casual stroll, a few back and forth, do not remember road names, as if your eyes closed can also separate the East and West, because the city is not large, and sometimes several times a day passing by a shop who bought the letter in hand, and owner, was a friendly eye on the TV, I feel that I'm not tourists, but here was an ordinary resident. I never thought would be here on the street side of the village fell into the water encounters a Mosuo people and talked with him for several hours on them to gain a deeper understanding of folk, live up I came here in Yunnan Province.
At that time I was a small shop on the Square Street buying spree, he entered the shop and buy sun glasses, when the female boss greeted him, he is very gentlemanly manners, asked her first greeted me, saying hello again and so I bought him a . Female boss out of curiosity, asked him whether the Tibetan people, because his clothing and about Tibetans. He said he fell into the water village, I knew he was a Mosuo people, chatted up with him, so that female boss thought we knew, he enthusiastically helped me counter-offer. Shopping on our side while trying to understand his situation. His Tibetan name hard to remember, he read several times I've learned to not like, but when I played Han Han teacher gave him the name, named Yang, Xiao Yang told him I think it is more convenient. He asked if there is no "A Note", meaning there is no boyfriend, it seems straight to the point when they are friends, not implicit. Folk Culture Village in Shenzhen, he was working, performing Mosuo song and dance, he is said to sing and dance well received by tourists. The leave to go back to see, and the childhood of the partners meeting, too busy to have time to take the marriage did not, it seems "walking marriage," the word is very common for them. Since I will be with friends, and they with him leave, he wanted to leave my cell phone number and took out his cell phone on the spot and make a telephone call placed to his number into my phone to see if his skillful operation, think that he even smart people than the city.
After dinner, he calls us to Square Street is about to participate in a bonfire, we should be about away, he said it was very easy to jump, invited us to join together to go inside from time to time in the music singing a few words, drew the cheers of other people, and the atmosphere is very warm. After one hour show ended, we found a river bar to sit and chat. He spoke about his childhood, they were born, my mother will be holding him to the lake on the island lamasery, starting from the monk's name, he Being the youngest, although the child is very naughty, often stir up trouble, but his mother never to fight him. To 13 years old, there is an adult ceremony that he is no longer a child, and must bear the responsibility of the home, for home to do chores, such as cattle, etc. Later, he was sent to school, to a very distant town where the boarding school. He is now 22 years old, the first 2 years of marriage have begun to follow his "Assia" Living in Rigby Peninsula, the village fell into the water far away from the middle of the night but also come back when he was very happy. Later, he went to Shenzhen to work, at the outset and often to maintain telephone contact with her, and later gradually break with his girlfriend, contacts, he knew his father had been made, this time leave him to go back and found his original and his girlfriend have been The best marriage partner to go, and could see that he is helpless, but they will not fight.
He hated people said they did not know who his father was, of course they have fathers, or they come from. Some come to Folk Village in Hong Kong and Macao tourist guides misleading under the thinking that Mosuo people are very casual, for they are frivolous, that he really wanted to beat them a good meal.
Mosuo women could see that he very much admired. He said that they never curse, if not many, gently a few words can make you convinced. Unlike the Han Chinese women, like to argue, love to make, talk about bad language, he is not going to listen to listen to also.
When we asked about his future plans, he said that Beijing wanted to learn vocal music, later came up with CD, he said that now are mostly sold on the street singing Han ethnic minorities songs that did not taste all aliasing, and if one day have the opportunity to go to Shanghai to open concert, will certainly ask us to cheer. It seems that he is also very ambition.
As for his personal problems, he said that it is difficult in the city to find his girlfriend, he asked us; receive a marriage certificate and the marriage to go What's the difference. We asked him, receive a marriage certificate means great deal of responsibility at home, buy a house, but also their families. He said the city also have a living together, and together come to live together, do not come together on the break, this is no different from walking marriage, and I said yes, but not every girl is willing to do over a lifetime, with a total to lead a stable life.
We asked him, in the Lugu Lake, there is no collar marriage certificate, he said very little. During the Cultural Revolution, there is a small number of people were forced to receive a marriage certificate, having to small family life, but largely restored after the Cultural Revolution as it was, a very small number of people separated from a separate small house with his mother, which means that they want to own a house built on the woman will give up their original position in the home, perhaps in the future she can become parents, to master financial power. I asked Xiao Yang have their own savings, he said that wages were handed over to the mother can not stay in their own money, to use the money to the mother when to apply, of course, depends on her face, not necessarily every time. Parents of the future, when his sister did, too. He wanted to feed their children, to old age, they were also responsible for his life. Of his own children did not need him the burden of dependency by a girlfriend's house, he can go to festivals to visit and get some small gifts to children. This is their life.
He loved his mother very much respect for her, he said, is the world's greatest mother, he is fully aware of the mother's family where the great maternal love, which is in other patriarchal society, can not be imagined.
Of Lijiang is also a matriarchal society, women's status is not relying on the authority can be accomplished, but by "daytime" hard work, diligence and simple household received is well deserved.
I wish you luck, Xiao Yang!
Author: jane_zhang65
