Remember Napian network inside and outside the famous "I Xiaomei Story" do? Describes a period of "Claustrophobia, fog of non-fog" the feelings of legend.
When I saw the article, when just a month back in Tibet, resulting in a lot of people ask me whether the Sichuan-Tibet Road, and the romanticism associated with, and when I wanted to also put my experience to write about.
Always believe that every person who walked the Sichuan-Tibet line, there will be the story of his own, because Natiao so-called "road" is really too dangerous, too difficult. Perhaps it is more than the "unprecedented" way, but I have not seen.
On the Sichuan-Tibet Road, and that memories are intertwined wet spring.
In fact, Lhasa, or blue skies. Toyota Cruiser can be more when we go east, lead and heavier cloud, to the Nyingchi, has it started to drizzle. I remember when approaching Nyingchi saw a Dongfeng truck carrying vehicles, while Mercedes-Benz cars rumbled off, the driver plays Dan chef with disdain, said: "This car can only be in the county跑跑." Is not, a far from doors, you have to "car car."
Parcel under the empty mountains in Mongolia Linzhi, scenery is like traditional Chinese ink landscape painting. Sniffing moist air, good friends, a lot of altitude sickness. No one thought: Tomorrow, for us, is the true test.
As early as heard of the Sichuan-Tibet road is not a mess, until on the ground, only to find it to be even more difficult than expected. Past, each time out, the total next to persuade someone how how difficult this road walk the road how how bad roads can be trained each time very scared Buzhe the "heart of stone," I am. Only Sichuan-Tibet road, I have a really really underestimated it.
It can be called the way? Landslides down the gravel, tree trunks piled in one place, dancing like a car jumped in the past, even off-road Jeep, the chassis has also been scraping blew "creak" sound, listening to make people feel bad; the car we like to play Like spring beds, almost did not hit the roof;
What kind of mountain that呀? Landslides wreak havoc after inch of grass left, God will be met to worry about.
Line to one, sub-master once told us that this is more than 40 years ago caused the death of the ancient village 140 Gully debris flow areas, the Sichuan-Tibet line diverted for this purpose.
I am beginning to understand time, we propose to go when the Sichuan-Tibet line, sub-master difficult once the same again.
Shortly after car row Ryugo, there are three roads of the People's Armed Police would like to ride, and we agreed. Probably because the way the bumps, three guy suddenly added weight, the car could move 100 meters, they uttered a Menxiang, sub-once exclaimed, "bad", I got checks finished, Chen Zhaolian he said to us: " plate broken. "
I do not know "broken plate" on a car how serious the car can not go anyway, and only passing cars for help and so on. Not long after, came an armed police trucks, the car saw armed police comrades in our car, jumped out to help repair a matter of course.
Bad road car, I do not rare, so do not care. I wandered around for quite a while, come back to see the owner or crouch, or squat on the ground, he loudly asked friends: "how well the car repair?" Friends "Hush," a cry: "are nervous go again." I did not realize the car out of a big problem.
This class is responsible for construction of the Sichuan-Tibet road special armed police has been debated for a long time before they come up with a expedient - to use their small thumb generally thick rope tied up the broken plate.
Armed soldiers before he, not without worries for us, said: "In this way over 102 natural barrier, so mysterious!" Sub-master once said: "The town was rushed to the wooden bar (Bomi County, the county seat) bar, where the approach could be to a little more. "
Although the car restarted, but each out of tens of meters, times once the master should have loosened the rope off checks.
I asked what is the natural barrier, 102 Ci Dan, sub-Dan frown said it was a major landslide area, 86 years a major landslide occurred in the summer, more than 80 vehicles were buried. Fear! But he thought this place do not suffer the village Buzhuo shop, we were still eager to arrive as soon as possible Bomi.
All the way again after several landslides areas, each time the peace of惊惊to have passed, may be sub-master Dan always said: "The 102 is still in front."
102 Vertical Limit has finally appeared in front of us, and looked at it as the mountain around a few bends of a major landslide areas, half of the whole mountain is like being torn, nature magic performed here can be regarded as fully exposed, it is not not but chilling.
Once the master before the passage of time made the last Driving Status examination, the car waddled onto the 102 natural barrier of the muddy road. Through rain and fog, to the upper left corner to see, the Peak rolling a bunch of rubble; to the lower right corner of view, deep valley roared Palongzangbu River, Riverside can see the rolled down the car wreckage. I just closed my eyes. The car driving out of 102 natural barrier, I more than ever out of a palm sweat.
While the Sichuan-Tibet Road "extremely difficult for", but because of its economic and military importance, each of its States or putting in a lot of manpower, material resources, but never a permanent cure is not only a cure, so far, the fragile geological structure doomed this way, "no drugs" fate.
Along the way, we rely on from time to time to see the roadside Palongzangbu River, chatting up some simple shed, in the cold rain in little more than "fragile", which sat with his head wearing a white cap, waist another dagger road workers From their unique dress, see that they are followers of Islam. Sub-master Dan said they were from Qinghai or Gansu, Tibetans are not willing to do this live, "the risk of very ah, come to a mud-rock flow is finished." Ci Dan also said that the Sichuan-Tibet road there are times landslides was not dead , and soon, to a large number of road workers, terror come again, tragedy really happened - all the workers were buried alive.
When our car from passing to them, their homogeneous Shua Shua way looked up looked at us, kind of similar to watch intently the eye, such as the eagle-like hard-edged, such as the wolf-like rebellious, with Zhegerenye characteristics. I think anyone who confront them, first of all have to Kang Dezhu this stock from the eyes of the momentum. Perhaps, and only them, in the long run here, to compete with the harsh environment.
It's that stop-go, stop-go, the days have been completely dark, we finally rubs up against the car as "Switzerland of Tibet," said the town of Bomi County, wooden bar. We attend to eat, to find parts separately, even though imports of parts to know not easy to find, or holding a glimmer of hope, the result is nothing.
Sub-master once said: "This car will never run back, or else call sent from Lhasa, or send parts Linzhi over." Drivers of such things is very common in Tibet, so the driver of Tibet, the most patient. Ci Dan Master said the last summer, they have a car unit also in the Sichuan-Tibet line, because the road cave-ins able to return to Lhasa, the driver put the car stay in the bundle of wood, his walk across the landslide area, repaired the road until the autumn to come the car drove away. If you want to consume a few days here, we are not willing to. Ci Dan Master surprising, he suggested: "Otherwise you have chartered another go." Thought of the car the rest of the travel expenses have to by us out, I am firmly opposed. But no one find a better way, we all sat silent.
Mind, stood down last two days, walked the streets, I secretly called bad luck, suddenly remember there are so few frames in the fixed grid: the way seen in reconstruction projects in Guangdong. I had an idea, thinking it is in Guangdong in aiding Nyingchi area, then where Bomi county government should also have the Guangdong group of cadres, chances are the villagers that useful.
Has always been the most trouble is too busy to think of others and I take the liberty, hurried to the hotel waiter asked around, thank God, the town on such a big wooden bar, it is not only aware of two attendants from the deputy head of Guangdong, but also know that they Zhuna.
Under the leadership of the waiter, we have shot to open the "natives" The county executive the door. This is how the two young group of cadres also did not expect as many as uninvited guests to visit late at night, but did not expect, or even thousands of miles away from home, though strangers, they are very pleasant surprise, he immediately told me to use their The calls to home报平安. When the "hometown" The county learned that our difficulties, but also a promise to help solve. 2 county also took personal charge to us to do dinner, though a tube of noodles plus a few eggs, we eat Pen Pen incense.
Chen Magistrate from Guangdong-based state, 28-year-old, originally of the state Municipal Standing Committee, Bomi County, the incumbent vice mayor in charge of managing the economy, Lee County from Dianbai, age-matched, in the Bomi in charge of science and health, They should be in the Bomi attachment to six years. Speaking of Sichuan-Tibet line, the two county features a move wry smile: County Magistrate Chen said that the summer meeting in Nyingchi, after 102 natural barrier, only heard from the hills roll down the roof of gravel playing "ping ping pong pong" sound of each views are like to take the lives of a bet; Lee County Magistrate said there times where he went to a supervisor built Hope Primary School, came back and found his neck wrong, a film, was actually a foot suck the blood of the fat leech.
Late at night, and we have to leave, "fellow" The county features a move admonished us not forget to eat breakfast tomorrow morning.
The next day, when we came, "fellow" The county has not at home, and had exactly the county people's congress today's opening of the meeting. Home chef greeted us in, told him that Magistrate specially for us boil a pot of porridge pig. In the "hometown" The county backyard, I saw a monkey, chef, said magistrate had come to nothing when idle Douzhe play.
Are always thinking about the car issue, a staff member came to tell us to rush county have told the county unit on a Toyota jeep and told the driver to sell our original cost to steel.
Sub-master once said, thanks to find the "hometown" The county executive to help. Really, I have not thought about if there is no "hometown" What will happen to our county. In Tibet, there is no "what would happen if ... ... I" and only "in the face ... ... how I do."
Car replaced with steel plate, our original way back, once again through the 102 natural barrier, I refused to ride dead or alive, and choose to walk past and feel in practical point, after all, there are parts of life in their hands.
In the evening, the car onto color Zillah mountain has an elevation of more than 4700 meters of the summit, there were numerous positive under the snow. At this time, in front of the mountain road there was an unexpected personal shadow, approaching a look: It is the road that I walk alone foreigners. Seen him on the road yesterday, a man pushing a bicycle luggage Zhuiman face came, when the next heavy rain, with his awkward wearing raincoats, hair wet and the droop in the forehead, an awkward look. At the moment, his situation is even more worrying, my name is Dan stopping times. But the times once turned a deaf ear to drive too fast. He later explained: worried plate is pressed down again. I have nothing for the foreigners blessing, really want to know he was there at that moment regretted it.
(Can not help but plug in some digression.
In the Sichuan-Tibet road, in addition to the above-mentioned, we also met some other very interesting backpacker foreigners.
One was Gangchu Lhasa shortly after sitting in the front seat of a friend saw one wearing a long blond MM car waving to us. Friend think that the "Yan Yu" has come, how can we miss. Vehicles are opened in the past few tens of meters, and he finally could not resist opening required times once the car to go back.
Which may be what is up MM呀? Is clearly a DD Well, with a super-large backpack is also super dirty, and some long iron bar.
Boy is Russian, from Moscow, only 18 years old, just graduated from high school, college, out of madness before a return. He chose the Sichuan-Tibet road, is because they have heard this road is very dangerous, would like to verify. Then to Chengdu to see Nazuo very high Buddha (Leshan Giant Buddha). The scenery on the way, he was not interested in photography often when I stop, he would pull out from the pockets of an old fool has broken another machine "clicks" one, and then ask me this scene is anything special. Once he opened the wallet, give me a glimpse inside the sandwiched ? John Lennon photos, I noticed that he saw photos, shy eyes twinkling of an eye thus bringing glory fired, was heavily covered up his face weakness belonging to the young person's vitality, excitedly exclaiming: "Beatles, (John Lennon ? English name, will not fight)." Unfortunately, I knew of a limited number of Beatles songs.
Evening, we gongbo'gyamda accommodation, then a small place that only a small inn, I had to explain to him will only, and no choice. Instead, young man told me that he had no hotel accommodation, and he went to the Mid-Levels on the tent camping, (turned out he is used to support those long sticks tent). Then he honestly say he brought up the money, only enough to eat, there is no reservation fares and accommodation.
See the lad so plain and hardworking way, we whose consciences are moved around him to sit again tomorrow morning, our car. He Mankoudaying the left. The next day after a scheduled time, but he did not come. Thin-skinned guy friends say I'm sorry for sit "Overlord" car.
On another occasion, was the first color when the mountain Zillah, met two foreigners on bicycles down the mountain, we stopped the car and talk to them. When they learned that when we come from Guangdong, immediately picked up quite fluent in Cantonese, said: "We will say Cantonese." It turned out that two Britons working in Hong Kong from Vietnam more than two months before the start of their " cycling trip. " I asked them all right in front of the scenery. They repeated the big beaming "very beautiful". Asked how a good law, they do not know how to say, OK, anyway, is good, there are mountains and water, never saw anyone so good. Asked where呀? They had interfered with the half-head, unable to speak because it is over the hill has always been forward it wants to.
Well, get on the former would say:
Only later did I know that the Sichuan-Tibet road is prohibited foreigners to enter alone the courage they are no traces of them have let my admiration. )
In order to less backtracking, we have chosen to return to the South line of Lhasa, that Millington - Long County line. Very few people go this route, the book is also rare introduction. Asked how the meeting Dan this way? Ci Dan said that much better either. I naively thought, at least not again appear "102 natural barrier," the bar.
"Hospitality" Our is another danger: Millington to the Long County section of the Brahmaputra valley very interested desertification has become a rolling sand dunes. This section is not coupled with transport links, lack of maintenance, there are paragraphs yellow sand road had been buried. We are forced into the car near the river, a little yellow sand zone is relatively thin. Even so, the wheels are often sand, Xi Zhu, we can only get off carts.
By afternoon, the wind gradually began to play wildly, in the valley left red right sudden, rotating writhed, and melodies of yellow sand flying toward everything to obstruct its progress Wuzhuo things. Our car untimely death of the fire once again, out of the vehicle, not seen signs of human habitation that I saw standing in the sand of the valley, even our "steel soldiers" have become so vulnerable. We seem to have become the world's Dynasty, about to be swallowed sand, sad feeling in the sand of the Xieguo spread. Until a friend shouted at me, Shaleng the Why, fast help cart, I was fascinating stats.
Later we saw a truck of wood is also planted in the sand trap, and two drivers are busy to a pile of logs moving down from the car. Such as reducing the burden of the car after driving out of a bunker, they also should go to log onto. Afflicted person's family on the road I do not know to repeat several times.
The Canadian investigation into the county, and our car again, unable to cope, exhaust pipes broken. Where we break repair.
And all the way through the county, compared gacha is particularly depression deserted, especially in front of each household plot in a thick soil, seems to be too good for a long time unoccupied. Later, in Zetang told us that just happened gacha plague, remember where we ate lunch, my stomach suddenly badly.
Dan Butler did not climb, I was drowsy and sleep. Suddenly, the second once cried out: "Look, your favorite." Zhayi awakened on the hillside outside the window greets overwhelming azaleas in the sun was shining bright ... maybe ... all in this vigorous vitality, to promote we were coming.
Last year, the approaching New Year's Day, I was far away in Bomi's "hometown" The county executive had called and Chen magistrate then, and I have not finished the house of self-reported, Chen county has repeatedly said: "I remember, I remember, my impression is deep. "
County Magistrate Chen said that Lee County had left home to visit relatives soon after his family was sick, take the time, Bomi is under snow, "a trip back home, Burongyia ... ..." call came apart, Wang Dan Chen County long leisurely voice.
Photo: Bomi flower
Author: wawanini
