Chengdu - Kunming - Dali - Lijiang - Lugu Lake - Panzhihua - Chengdu
Just my summer vacation along a path. Lijiang and Lugu Lake, in which all stayed for four days. Can not portray all my feelings, just trying to write a little piece down the bar.
The first stop was Dali.
Stayed there one night, learning the local people take the bus to the Plaza like to see the Torch Festival. Then, late, and missed the tourists flow of people do not care what the cars are full of local kids. Square meters of the torch had only half the number of people to a high Sa Song of incense was actually taught me a man from Chengdu. Some people began to jump across the torch, is said to be able to drive bad luck, security and peace. People have continued to try, there are always less than a vigorous, such as antelope, bold but silent local girls. In the bus station had way she asked, her voice soft.
Compared to the Torch Festival of the Yi Jia stockade, which is not complete, as the cities of the game, but it makes complete laughter, innocent joy as a child. Than Han Chinese, ethnic minorities seem to be more simpler and more fun all the way line to see them to release the pressure by the way, and I am always curious tourists, watch, and passing,
Dali has all kinds of famous tie-dye clothes, dyed Banlangen the blue, natural not fixed - good or very good, but faded into the water ferocious. Tourists buy to wear, what to wear exaggerated way it does not matter, Lijiang even worse.
Erhai Lake. The original can not figure out why it is referred to as "sea", and placing a body in which only the sweet sense of the boundless. The sea of red paper, Yu-chi Chen Qing island painter of Masquerade's family home, is the kind of realized the dream for others people.
There are fishing boats, Fisherman's impulse to do so fake, as they Laoyu sell shrimp, tourists rush to see the carpet - that is two days is good.
Lijiang.
Lijiang is known as the "World Xunqing capital" - the ancient Naxi romantic young love, when free, but must pay attention to marry properly matched to comply with parents, matchmaker, so staunch lover's inner and often dressed in Chinese clothes and calmly to die. Today, being "Xunqing" sorrowful yet beautiful Yunshan Ping has become a dyed parking lot, we must grow in ropeway to wait nearly two hours. These are ordinary people like us can come here, the price can not complain.
MAONIUPING is still beautiful, mountain flowers bloom.
Yulong Snow Mountain.
Xu Xia-ke termed "ripple public gully, collar pull out various victories." Protection of the Naxi people of God, "3", the legendary ride a white horse, a white, wearing a white helmet, spear Zhibai God of War, - that is the embodiment of Yulong Snow Mountain. Lunar New Year February 8 of the three sections is the biggest festival Naxi.
Me into the mountains that day is cloudy, but also suffered a hailstone. Not be able to adapt to 5000 meters height, chest tightness, shortness of breath, rapid heartbeat and intense. Cloud sat there so spread out, actually fell asleep. Look at those old people, kids will come up, but also cheered, live dragon in general, in particular, there is a pacifier in her arms dangling from the baby, the more I discover the future of its own nothing.
Shun White Sands you can see the mural. Since the completion date, never been repaired, only destruction. Song and Yuan dynasties, when works, there is the Tang Dynasty style, - Pop takes time, we can see where the remote. The screen simultaneously the image of Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism, Buddhism could work with see the obvious, esoteric, and some are decorated in Tibetan (in particular, the roof painted gossip in order to replace the yin and yang of Tibetan Pisces), multi-religious harmony for Naxi Representatives . Color is also a secret, and not play the bright, as heavy metal mineral mixed with pigment. You Yi gold clip, gold juice scanning lines - take advantage of guided tours do not pay attention, a hand to touch, there is Ao Tugan.
Big Yan town. Named after the cities like ink-stone.
Town are selling well-known on the streets of Lijiang cloth, all kinds of colored stripes, of course, has all of the weaving. The most famous one is called "beef kebab," beef rib width of the solid color contrast stripes, concise and never bored, with strong ethnic flavor.
The ground is a centuries-old stone road, had long been one foot water slide, rain and snow is not mud, fine dust. Unlike the bluestone Dali, Lijiang is a colorful slate, - you can try barefoot, it was kinds of people can not forget the feeling.
A typical old home is "three bedrooms a screen wall, Tetraena five patio." Main building plus two rooms, Zhaobi Wai synthetic compound, centered in the main building, the two side rooms of symmetry, the entrance screen wall. Focus on the door with the screen wall for decoration, wealth and those who cornices temples, carved, screen wall or horn type, or for the three Dieshui type, gable there is a hard mountain-style brick walls and wooden beams hanging mountain style, Yan Xia decorated with hanging fish patterns and elegant and varied. Old Town, the first Bay 2 inn that is the case, stay mostly foreigners, are often sold out, more constant visitors. Large courtyard with gravel puzzle, "Dr. Chen (bats) praised Shou" and other patterns, said to be able to do barefoot foot massage (!).
Wood House Wufeng Lou is also famous for Xu Xia-ke said: "layer sets Gao Gong, on the construction of France seen the (scientific name), octagonal floor death of a prince, and extremely Hong-li." Loft-style three double eaves and save a pointed wooden structure, two-story facilities for four a Xieshan out, cutting-edge row of mountains, octagonal eaves; the bottom four lean-out nets, star anise fly rafters, - looked at any angle is 5-wing corner, so that Wufeng Lou.
Found that travel easily misunderstood. For example reference to Lijiang, we must mention the "rainy weather Liufang," Wood's handwritten, Naxi written is pronounced similar to "reading out", is considered proof of Naxi Ren emphasis on culture, but also interpreted as "rainy day reading a a good book, "the door to put up in bookstores - but there is a solution, saying that the government of the most thrust-weight wood is" loyalty ", this four-character should be hoped that Turkey's ceremony system, En-ze always spread, BES Liufang. Another example is Xu Xia-ke by the invitation from wood by wood's heart with fear, not daring to stay in his rich and beautiful wood House, and arranged for him to live in the sun, can be left behind Xu Xia-ke, "palace of Korea, to be king" of praise, it's the least afraid of the wooden feeling when the words of it, - now being written on wooden screen wall in front of the government, but also do not know what to think he will.
Compare Zhoushan City, Lijiang has been pushed as a model for heritage conservation - is also a model of helplessness. Lijiang is also the Chief Executive, but also pay attention to performance (how true), also out of planning, in which a straight road is now covered by a large Yan town. - And then no money. Fortunately, no money. Lijiang is a chance to close rogue preserved, and the locals refer to the ancient Lijiang, for the sake of self-protection is always defected to the strong, the surface is still ashamed.
However, I still see the ruins of a wall package, and is only bought for the hotel, on the town, the demolition of several of the good old house, - the world of UNESCO to this end, removal of Lijiang, the "world heritage city "signs (China has two, and the other is Pingyao), of course, pull the result is no.
Remains back to the ancient city of Bar. Compared with the silhouetted against the ancient city of Lijiang old people live in a very dignified, is the city quiet landscape. Stone bridge, the old-style clothes for the elderly, a chain get a monkey or tinkering with musical instruments; open stores artefacts old son was also outsiders - to the four or five decades, from Tianjin.
Naxi ancient music nightly change is not to be missed, and - old players every year the death; Qupai preserved as fossils, names such as Dream: Benedict, a book, think and think, Princess cry (over White Sands fine music); Shanpo Yang, Shuilong Yin, Liu shake gold, Everlasting Joy, diffuse Cource (The above Lijiang Dongjing Music) ... ...
Dongba Naxi ancient music across the Palace, Dongba ritual objects placed, painted the fairy tale, written in hieroglyphs of the streamer - a ceremony that they can not see, or just I can not.
Naxi's "As everyone God" is that all forest Kawasawa, wind and rain thunder and lightning, insects, fish and other human survival of the ecological environment. Dongba said, then what was originally with the ancestors of the half-brother, who hurt As everyone, retaliation, large tracts of farmland submerged. Later, in the gods ordered mediation agreement has been reached, humans can not arbitrarily cut down forests, killing wildlife, polluting water and air, double it and good as ever. - This fear was the first Environmental Protection Law of the bar. Now, in the Old Town of Lijiang, care for the environment since the traditional spread. Each household is no toilet in the street the establishment of public toilets; even open to visitors of the hotel, they can only urinate. Living Water Ring, three in the morning already purified drinking water, first getting up early in the afternoon before laundry vegetables. All refuse to focus on, a car down the street every afternoon to collect, - that the car was also issued by Naxi ancient music, inviting the visitors to have probe, Shashi considerable.
In fact, the Dongba religion is witchcraft classes, in the Naxi Ren life is not too much weight, only in the disease, disaster, etc. can not explain when the only thought.
In addition, very sorry, Dongba script - the only living pictograph, is finishing out of foreigners. To see the dictionary class, are Dongba, Chinese, English and try. In Lijiang, you will hear the name of Peter Locke and care. The former of "ancient Naxi Kingdom of Southwest China" and "Naxi - Wikipedia English Dictionary", which has "forgotten kingdom."
Do not forget to go to the Bunun bell - from the Yunnan-Tibet Cha Ma Ancient Road of the lonely, settled in the quiet ancient town of Lijiang under the sun. Go, see it in front of "Dingding Ding ding, drifting drifting drifting; clang clang clang clang clang, go home go home go home"; to look at its poles, stool packed message; and the owner say hello, on the second floor to go - is the kind of joy also want to have a room.
Like it, we have been passing were moved here in order to stay in various ways, such as rent between the surfacing: wood carvings, carved wooden tray, manual inkjet T-shirt, books, bars, coffee shops, Sichuan, Hunan ... ... the owner will greet you sit down and chat with the shop just their ways of surviving. - The characteristics of Lijiang is also here, its open and tolerant, but also foreigners, like Dali's洋人街.
The streets and playgrounds can be missed from the ground and chatted with him the same route will be together peers, - This is me being picked to the Lugu Lake - where I was not originally prepared to go there, you soak in the ancient city, the money when you go home.
(Lugu Lake matter be continued)
Author: duras