July 11 to prepare the afternoon of the taxi, at the station found a small oxygen bottles for sale, a bottle can suck about 40 minutes, the price is 30 yuan, hesitated again, or not buy, I think, or fatalistic bar.
We bought the sleeper, two on each side by side on the lower berth, and the middle of an aisle, barely over one person. Artie and I together, like a double bed-like, very suitable for Lover's. High or low backrest can be adjusted to each of a quilt, very dirty, but fortunately we had to bring their own quilt. 4:00 pm start of the.
Golmud to Lhasa highway is part of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, length of more than 1,100 kilometers throughout an average elevation of 4,000 meters, is the world's highest and longest of the asphalt road. On the way to cross the Tongtianhe across dozens of mountain scenery along the way grand exception.
The first is the elevation of 4,700 meters over the Kunlun Pass, because we played yesterday to the first stop, so there is not much response, but already it was the same car began to vomit up. Machine said that the most sad thing is behind the five beams a pass, after listening to it Dangling into sleep. Awakening to it in the dream that has already passed five beams, and now advance to the high point Tanggula pass.
July 12 8:00 am or so, we reached the highest elevation in this journey the land children, 5231 meters - Tanggula pass. But the wind would be better Kunlun Pass the fierce, mainly in the air content of less, I am in good spirits and made a jump for a while after the vehicle was also very anxious time for China and China again and again I am on the train. Yu is now in July, so do not see the silver dress wrapped Tanggula, only misty with the snow peak. Time inside the air a little bit nervous, probably all give this elevation due to the scare, but in fact there is no problem as long as the heart, even if the 70-year-old woman in Tibet is also no problem with the car a 76-year-old Miss Xia is a a good example.
After a Tanggula mouth, also out of Qinghai Province, into one of China's five major natural pasture - northern Tibet grassland. North Prairie consists of a series of rounded hills and gentle composition, Hill Top to the relatively flat ground only one or two hundred meters. During the clip there are many basin, the boundless expanse of green grass, undulating boundless vast, vast and boundless, Miles Under a starry sky is white and black yak herding group, the air wings from time to time to see eagles circling, I wonder if waiting for burial? When the thick cloud when the thin, high and sometimes low, sometimes the next burst of fish, cars, like an ant crawling on rough road surfaces from time to time can see the snow peaks, and occasionally there is a stream of quietly lay on the lawn. After our afternoon Nagqu region, and we think, or sister, Hangzhou is a city, but the conditions were poor but hard Fortunately, three years ago, where her father did not come to this ghost (aid-Tibet).
I can not sleep one night, back of the head coupled with inflation Inflation has not touched the pillow, a stiff neck. It seems the old money that's right, a kind of lag altitude sickness, swollen back of the head is a sharp jump up in my mouth a little Tanggula punishment.
July 13 8:30 am, we went to Lhasa, calculate lasted 40 hours. The original 30-hour drive due to weather, traffic (and in some sections of the road), stopping to eat and other factors delayed for 10 hours. But I, after all of our cars have safely returned to - Lhasa! When I see the Lhasa River, through dawn moment, stirring the hearts of waves of land. From Hangzhou to Shanghai and sat 2 hours train ride from Shanghai to Xining 41 hours by train from Xining to Golmud to sit for 12 hours by train from Golmud to Lhasa in 40-hour car ride, and now I finally stand in this mystery of the place. Lhasa, Tibet, le!
In the street was found a rest stop near the shop children, 88 a standard room (with Hangzhou, about 200 comparable). First comfortably took a bath, study a little map only to find our hostel before the Road (Beijing Road) has been to the east is the Potala Palace, together with another from the street was very close. And it will not attend to what the journey tired, Shopping wishes to be brought back, went straight to the Jokhang Temple, the street. Since today is Thursday, Jokhang Temple and be even more deserted, generally Monday, Wednesdays and Fridays only been open on the second floor (Buddha Hall, Exhibition Hall), more people come to worship, and the scene is more lively.
Today, the street has been shrunk, or at least not and I imagined the same. Stroll around in a circle just smell the thick of the commercial atmosphere, a die-cast house hanging out, ritual implements; volume by turning the cylinder; imitation of the old jewelry; Some sellers even the name of the product are not quite sure, says something in Tibetan to stall us. 1:00 heart sad and dreary, which in the end is the inevitable development of commodity economy, or whether the disappearance of a people process it?
July 14 Today, the hotel owner Jan Germany promised to give me as a day free of charge to tour the Potala Palace. In fact, you can through the windows of the room saw the world-famous plateau Zheke pearl has now come to really approached it.
Afar it, you will find it is like a painting, then the land is untrue, then I think that it approached the majestic majestic to tiny human beings in order to oppressive, had spontaneously Seiki pious heart, knock the five of the long head of the body to bid for land into the Potala Palace. Although I do not believed in Buddhism, but still devout and bought a pack of butter, a little later to listen to Young Germany is used to butter lamps Tim fuel (the more butter added, says the more you accumulate virtue, the Buddha will bless the Lord). Of course, the "Buddha master" (Temple of doing things Lama) bless you first have to "bless" their daily lives, then the money to the real thing is essential. In the Young Germany's suggestion, into the fabric before the palace has become a 10 yuan against 100 a corner notes (remember: the Qinghai-Tibet region coins abhorrence, as a paper).
The Potala Palace can be divided into three parts: the White House, the Red Palace and the Yellow Palace. The Dalai Lama to live Huang Palace, in the White House guest, meeting, office, etc.; Red Palace Zeyi Palace, Lama, Buddhist temple hall, after the main hall. Followed by the main first in the Red Palace Jan De Li Mian turn, each into a hall would add a little butter to the light, and then worship on a dime. And must be left to the right out into the clockwise direction, like turning the cylinder, as irreversible. My mouth mutter prayers, Mr. guides took great pains to turn I do not know how many Buddhist temple by the Church, made me confused and disoriented, but also full of butter hand. Finally, we boarded the so-called "Golden Summit" that palace roof, because it is painted yellow, so the sun is like gold, like a photo is very bright. The so-called station to see far higher in the "Golden Summit" on the look down, the whole Lhasa glance, but also through high-powered telescope to see the Lhasa River.
The Potala Palace is a treasure, it is necessary to know the Dalai Lama light for V outside wrapped in Jinhua, all over the inlay jewelry, which amounted to 3700 kilograms of gold is huge. Not to mention a total of eight of them exquisite luxury of the Dalai Lama, along with numerous antique jewelry, murals, statues, books upon books it is difficult to assess. However, De Young said, everyone here is from the root wood to live four to five hundred people along the way from the Nyingchi carried over, and here is a live, one beam, one of Tibetan Buddhism are the countless people in wisdom. Makes me angry is that the enjoyment of these results is the Dalai Lama, a monk, who wears clothes also wants to engage in Buddhist Tibet's independence hypocrite. Because as much as monks saw the palace with a pager, listening to Walkman, can they are not a new new Lama?
Visit more than two hours later, jand took me into a Tibetan teahouse, drinking a kind of "sweet tea", a little before 2 cents a cup, drink up, there are shares of goat's milk of foul smell, sweet, and perhaps called the sheep milk is more appropriate.
Back to the hotel, and the spirit of the moment right again to go stroll the streets, and unknowingly went to the Potala Palace Square, innocently holding the camera gaze upon the majestic palace with the national flag. As it happened, there is a foreigner and I have the same situation, the square, only two of us like tourists, so a "Let's go!" We both became interim Partner. This afternoon went shopping together, then pat your photos to help each other, and will not "give machine look beautiful," the. His name is Eduardo, 22-year-old university student in Mexico, one person out of the summer tourism, are backpackers. Tomorrow he will ride to Shigatse, and then further the situation of Nepal to children to Thailand, but also invited me to accompany him a pity that I had been arranged. They will eventually be and his street was happily parted. I continue to treasure hunt in the street was that he then went back to hotel. Eduardo is very Cool, a pair of sunglasses coupled with chiseled Lianxing like Tom Cruise, told me that there is a year older than he's girlfriend, was also asked if there is any nasty boyfriend, one of my anger I don't know He deceived a look, like a child like yelling, drawing the roadside soon as the sound of "Hello", he then responded with a friendly smile.
July 15 7:00 am start Yandi only when the driver again when the Wizard, driving a Toyota jeep to carry us tour eastern front. Out of Lhasa has been following along State Highway 109 south, out of about 80 km bridge over the Brahmaputra, said that once the bridge will be able to pay off the debt for one year. Then all the way over the bridge to the east is the East Zetang fled in the direction that Britain is said to be driving it would be better to enter the territory of the eastern road conditions are poor, potholed.
About 3 hours later, we went to the Tombs of Tibetan Kings Qonggyai County, first glance is just an earth-rock Lei Cheng hills only, but they are buried in this hill Songtsan abandoning all loose, tshe, etc. 9 Zao one ages. Peak can be climbed beheld Yarlung Valley, said that this is the first dynasty, the capital of Tibet lies. Now the busy year already gone, only Zao are still here quietly guarding this piece of land.
Lunch time is also too busy to think (not hungry, but before the middle of nowhere shops) had a first in the vicinity of the Yumbulagang. Yumbulagang in Tibet Shannan, Tibet's first king of the underworld Nie Tsenpo built belongs to towers High-style buildings, have elapsed since the 2000 years of history, according to legend the history of Tibet's first ZAP, the first palaces , the first village, the first origin of the scriptures are all here. Princess Wen Cheng Huan came here to do the summer before.
In everyone's advice immediately back to the town Zetang lunch (which was 1:30 in the afternoon), but the way they stand up to being attracted into the Changzhu Si, but unfortunately seems to be changed lunch supper. We are indeed Jixinggaozhao this trip, one into the Chang Zhusi heard being played Tibetan Li Mian, four actors dressed in Tibetan costumes jumping around next to monks blowing long horns it is a lively scene . Artie happy repeatedly photographed. Surprisingly, a small stone fell from the sky suddenly hit the camera, the Artie was going to attack, but looked up and know that this is a group of Tibetan children want to tell us on a platform with them, perhaps where the film up a better line of sight. This is true, all the panoramic view of the children is at times curiously camera in our hands, very cute.
July 16 along the Brahmaputra east on State Road 318, about 5 hours to reach Tibet's second largest city, Shigatse. Jixinggaozhao already said, and You Ji Jin Er month we caught up with, what kind of incense Festival (the Tibetan calendar, May 15), as well as the annual exhibition Buddha ceremony. So one can only hungry straight Tashilhunpo.
Tashilhunpo Tibetan means "auspicious Temple", is the domestic tin successive Panchen Lama, the Panchen Lama is now 11, is the World, and its people Institute for Nationalities in Beijing to study it. It seems the Panchen Lama is also a mortal, what is the reincarnation of, good first stop there, I do not want in relation to political and religious issues. Buddha Bar talk show, as far as I understand it is for one year to the Big Buddha (painted on cloth) drying time sunbathing, or else a long time covertly hidden in a Buddhist temple where mold strange if it does not moldy snake. As the afternoon began to drizzle XiXi distinctly, so monks were anxious to put away the Big Buddha, Chuichuidada and stir a while carrying the back hall, and the scene of the spectacular, many lamas, indeed, I have a lot of the murder of film.
Out to the Tibetan Monastery Artie could not help but drink a cup of butter tea, sweet Naiwei exact Artie's taste, but I still do not like the smell of butter. Yandi suggested that we live in Gyangze tonight, so we toss in Britain bumpy road.
Today, the Tibetan incense festival because it is so in all parts of the Tibetan people to hold various ceremonies. Stopping to see the way we have a group of Tibetan women dressed in traditional costumes in an open area of a similar festival held in the Land of God's activities. According to age, size from east to west, are lined up, everyone is carrying a bag barley flour, each singing a # # # # (Tibetan) Pianxiang air scattering some barley powder, probably want to up days to pray for the coming year have a good harvest like it. The gang broke into our visit did not affect them, but more to ring the mouth to sing, but added a group of ragged children around we have been looked at. I just finished the film, changing the volume of readily fling no idea that they were a fast chips, a little girl picked to play. That made me a silk desolation, looking more than a month in Hangzhou, not as good as a small beggar child, how wish I brought a box of candy they eat enough, or several primary and secondary textbooks, comic strips and even a few pieces of paper a pencil a few, were all gave them. But I did not, finally had to change for all the remaining points to them. The kids excited, did not get to the little hand is holding a high shot, and would like to come take a while. After I have empty pockets, the heart is still there is a nameless desolate.
July 17 morning rush baiqoi monastery, do not mistaken, and Po Chu-i had nothing to do, but Zang Buddhist Temple is one of the hot Dan Gongsang King AD 1418 and the first Panchen Lama co-created. This is the most famous temple is the white tower of the home, this tower a total of nine layers, but the visitors could only up to the 6th floor, and then the top layers is the top of the tower, and said that a large quantity of the Buddhist scriptures. At the 6th floor of the platform can also be overlooking the Anti-British fort ruins, towering red walls of the ridge, it is conceivable that year Gyangze people, no, it should be said that tens of thousands of Zangmin against British invaders. Watched "Red River Valley," a friend you can find here, then shooting the scene, but recently a few days saw a lot of snow-capped mountains, grass, plateau lakes, to anywhere to be found here are not kept trained on the beautiful Red River Valley has.
Out of 97 kilometers east of Gyangze County, will be to Nagarze County, there are well-known Tibetan three "holy lake," one of the - Yamdrok Lake. "Wrong" is a Zang language in the pronunciation, meaning "lake", such as Namco, Manasarovar, classes of public wrong, Yamdrok Lake and so on. Young Germany said that we would drive around the lake for about two hours along the way mountain waterfront lake, cattle and sheep flocks, rape yellow, green barley wheat, and occasionally stopped to rest a Hekou holy water can also rejuvenate the lake (old), longevity (middle-aged), an increase of intelligence (children) do! (The above three is purely legend, the only reference).
Yamdrok Lake is not only known for the beautiful and diverse, but also around the very rich in resources, especially fish, waterfowl and rangeland resources. This is not the way line we could not even be tonight's tapas are getting fixed. First encountered in a mountain pass to sell a golden grasslands of the Tibetan mushroom children, said Kim Young Tak special fresh mushrooms fried beef, I will take 5 yuan to buy a big tub. The child received the money did not go, only Pa staring at the window side of me, while I was hesitant to want to borrow a pen and paper use, and then write (with match tie-rod is more appropriate) a "Palestinian views "the word, plus a fingerprint a dark, tell me this is his name. Bus times, being a fourth-grade elementary school children, summer reading has to in order to continue in this rare vehicle roadside Shouhou the coming year of tuition fees. He could see the eyes of my pen and paper when filled with nostalgia in mind, was another dull pain, a scene that called How can I regain the child's only ray of hope? I put pen and paper be given out to him, leaving only his name and that black hand print.
Besides tonight's tapas bar, today good days, there are fishermen in the fishing lake. Gu also met with China and China more than 4,000 meters above sea level can not be ran straight to the net to which the vessels are to 5 yuan a large yellow croaker harvest holy lakes.
Out of Yamdrok Lake, we started to turn a big mountain - gambara hill, over this mountain we have only 100 kilometers away from Lhasa about the. However annoying winding roads, steep 190-degree U-turn and two motor vehicles (cars) the first pick (car) tire of the intersection, really scary. Besides, I sat on Fu Jia location, really flattered that are no less than the stimulus to open go-kart. Fortunately, God has changed today, a few days before the problems at every turn on the rain, but also a "sun city" in this particular sub-to Lhasa, or else slippery rain, we death.
July 18 ended a three-day cruise, today a rest, we freely. 9:30 am to get up, to a nearby Tibetan restaurant to eat breakfast, bleary-eyed to see the menu is full of English, but fortunately I know bread, fried egg, coffee and other words, and will not Ehun Tibetan restaurant. I did not expect bread was actually on the streets everywhere selling baked pie, fried egg into chop suey (more than scrambled eggs is also broken), it seems that this shop is really foreign to possession of use, literally: snow leopard Tibetan restaurant.
Snow leopard out of control, a walk after dinner will be scattered into the nearby Ramoche. Unfortunately, today, Tuesday, inside the Buddhist temple is not open the door. Anyway, then in the temple freely wandering around around in circles through the tube, take a look at construction, slipped to achieve the go, I have mercy let me in one day the Buddha met a stage of the monks are reciting verses. This Lama Fahao down Sangsang Deng, 30 years old, had been a monk seven years, Lugu Lake in Yunnan origin, nationality: Moso tribe (), it seems the men in matrilineal clan came as no status, and the monks had.
2 idler touched each other why can it? Bai chat. He chatted chatted to take me to his residence to visit a traditional courtyard houses up and down on the third floor, 24 rooms, each housing a lama, off Mulberry in addition to a shrine dedicated to Sakyamuni room wall a 14 Dalai Lama phase, a table and two beds, because the past few days he has also come here want to be a fellow monks, but said the State Department issued a document that can no longer increase Lama, and this way, in order to maintain the one-China to prevent the Dalai Lama (14 World) relied on his disciples out more Tibetan independence, and secondly, in order to promote economic, or else the poor public (male) all came when the monks, and this not become a place of refuge, then why would hard-working, and work hard ah.
Here again, the monks had to tell us about the sources of income, a monk of two (down Sang said), one is "at work", that is the kind of guarding the Buddha Hall Lane, specialized East wipe west touch maintain Does the body of Kim Guang Cancan, butter lamps long Dusk does not put out, and so on. Of their monthly allowance of 200 yuan, the money is mainly ticket revenues and tourists to worship the Buddha. Another course, "laid off" (a joke), which is not to work, relying on other people's charity, as well as for others, chanting (ultrasonic classics, the Diamond Sutra ... ...), the income is entirely self-financing, and sometimes new arrivals Small Lama also on family members send money to get by it. Sometimes, of course, tourist season which finished allowance and then get to work much money there is on average affixed to these "laid off" Lama. Drop-Sang in the case of the latter, apart from food and clothing back to back Buddhist scriptures, the sun. Besides drop-Sang State Department official documents because of his fellow monks do not succeed, then self-Kiyonaga Buddhism here, intends to finish their studies to return home when the monks chanting scriptures give to support their families.
Through the windows down to see a small mulberry lama lama clothes washing in hospital, so would also like to try their own, not that a rusty red cloth Well. Drop Sangsi ponder a while, even promised, but should first curtain to pull up the (should not be allowed to see the old lama). And then I left right purse bag, wrapped Yanyanshishi, and those behind the wall exactly the same as the 14 Dalai Lama, the camera helped me to witness this historic moment, Who says woman can not be when the lama ah? !
Guo finished Lama addiction, the ED also consulted widely with starting off the San Zang years, did not think harder than the English. First, there are 30 letters in English more than four, and the four tones and pinyin, like points, coupled with the complex syntax, one word - hard! Think about to become a lama Zang must first get past that hurdle, because after all the book is written Zang,'s emotional bitter.
Conversations in chat enough, compared to shoot them, and to school to learn, I think rose to leave, and I can stay off Sang strongly. I went to Italy has never seen, it shrouded in mystery that took me out and turns a switch to turn off the entrance door of the Buddha Hall, the original understanding of drop-Sang Lama to work on the inside, I opened a back door to let me in. a. Turn full circle, we talked, and then to work together, and finally wearing my sunglasses asked me to help him and the Guanyin Bodhisattva photo, it seems to the back door I had to carry the photo sent to him.
Ramoche out, drop-Sang also accompany me the Sera Monastery, he said that there was fellow in that temple as monks, we can go from the back door, but also saved me a ticket. Jin sihou We first went to the residence of his fellow can be described as when fellow two lots to talk about, sometimes he spoke two rumble in my native dialect has brushed aside. Later, I learned that the villagers told him to go off the San burn lunch for us to buy food to eat, a bowl of tomato soup and greens fried eggs, vegetables and beef, made me by surprise, was very embarrassed. Here rice is pressed out using a pressure cooker, the water is difficult to control, often half-baked, to me, are used to eating soft rice grew up in the South is really a bit hard to swallow.
After dinner had been two more, drop-Sang villagers told us that he has identified through 3:00 Temple, it is an attractive option. Identified by the so-called, that is, two monks a question and answer, and the answers of sitting on the floor, stood to ask every question but also made a hit heavily beat up. Is actually on religious philosophy and logic, and so issues of academic debate, but also examination answers was intended. Hundreds of monks were dedicated to each question and answer, especially hit the applause, special ring, can be heard far away, unknown whether the person would have thought it was firecrackers.
After listening to distinguish out of the Sera Monastery, off inadvertently filed Tianzang Chang Sang, in my hard request, the drop-Sang before agreeing to take me to a nearby Tianzang Chang Sera. 1 hour says it approached the mountain, I strong-willed, drop-Sang is no way I could get, he pulled a corner of Daohao monks wear on their heads it can also block the sun. Under the heat of the sun, not that we do not want to call car, but many drivers have refused to go, some are afraid of bad luck for a nightmare; some fear Tianzang Shi to the smashed vehicles (such incidents have occurred). Fortunately, did not take long, my luck was underway a role in a big truck had just opened, let's ride got on. Of course, Zhe Liang is not an ordinary truck, but the body responsible for transporting the car up the mountain burial. Fortunately, I'm dying are not very fear, say, and the car was no body, only a few shroud only. Riding in a taxi on the fast, 20 minutes or so to the Tianzang Chang. First off Mulberry asked an old man living in the vicinity of that afternoon Tianzang Shi is not, then I can freely take pictures. Because Tianzang Chang could not be photographed, especially the aliens, it is disrespectful to the deceased.
Into the Tianzang Chang, mouth on Despite the increase, but the overall bit gloomy, and Shangougou Lane's underwear over the reborn and so on, walked on the road which is also cross out of a loose woman, really shocked me. Because today is not Tianzang Shi, we boldly walked beside Tian Zangtai. This is a large flat stones, like the role and chopping boards, but the latter is used to chopping, the former is used to cut people. Tianzang Shi was the first person to use a noose to be reborn in the head is fixed, then re-use knives, axes and other tools the body into pieces, on the "chopping block" on the recessed areas. Not long, hung from the vultures in the mountains will fly down and eat the#$%& clean. This is Tibet's most common burial method - burial, all creatures come in natural and back to nature.
July 19 until today to know the Dalai Lama could truly live a life of the emperor in general, the Potala Palace is the Winter Palace, cold, and actually there are summer's summer palace - Norbulingka.
Linca language is in the Zang Garden, Lam Court of the meaning of the Tibetan calendar every year in mid-March when the warmth of spring begins with the Potala Palace, the Dalai Lama came here and met with the Tibetan monks and lay officials in office. His spare time, they play in the garden entertainment. Winding connected to the park pavilion, Chi Shu Jing Ya quiet, lush trees, flowers and lush, is really a good place for summer. But, after all, is the height of 3,800 above sea level, some trees is difficult to survive, as surviving are "survival of the fittest out" and, therefore, although not in this plateau, and Suzhou, the garden of gardens, but the real number is not easy.
Out of Norbulingka, 4-way bus ride is the light in the end of the Drepung Monastery in the western suburbs of Lhasa. The past few days down, big and small temples do not know how many looked down the car seems to have little reaction to the temple, and halo Hu Hu, and too lazy to look at the. But the sale of tickets at 2:30 pm Temple Lama tells us that there are identified by the see, I come blamed for the spirit. Identified by that only the three temples in Lhasa (Sera, Drepung, Ganden Monastery) is within a specified time in order to see. The Drepung's also different from yesterday's debate by the Sera of the debate the scriptures, here's more like the defense of Scripture, the two living Buddhas (cultivation enlightenment of the monks), as a professor sitting in the middle of the courtyard, disciples by Xu came up to ask questions or to listen. I suddenly thought of Confucius that time, probably the bar so individualized.
July 20 is today's freedom of movement and also the last day to bid farewell to Lhasa, I am walking alone on the streets, the last look at clear sky, the last breathe pure air, the last time gazing at the magnificent Potala Palace the last time to listen to sound of monks chanting, the last walk in the street was the first, the last in the Brahmaputra cleanse my heart ... ...
We have proposed a Last Supper, must eat authentic Tibetan meal, so I once again into the snow leopard Tibetan restaurant. Authentic drinking yak butter tea, salty at the moment Naiwei; there tsampa, similar to something big Maibing; beef dumplings, is a cattle and sheep meat dumplings; deep-fried lamb chops to eat my stomach up badly; yogurt rice, rice plus issued its own yogurt, sour Paofan than imagine, finally we have a divided Xiaopen Egg Fried Rice was a nothing left. Hangzhou, eat a little with the words of no "off the stomach", the stomach is sour, sweet, salty, strange taste with a few full, plus point materials can be fried pot which goes dishes. Person is this way, do not always want to try after eating, after eating shouting fooled, but I can at least say that I eat my authentic Tibetan meal, and how should you feel
By: Rene
