On the last day of our trip Brilliant. Mogao and Yulin Cave waiting for us.
7 am Jiupaqilai Check out a call to the driver to meet us. The driver may be too hard these past few days, and sleepy answers the call, saying that open the door until 8:30 Mogao Grottoes. But we can not wait, and he immediately set out to us in the past.
Mogao Grottoes in the urban areas, 25 kilometers south-east, driving as long as half an hour. Got there, it really has not opened, carrying bayonets of armed police patrolling back and forth at the intersection, I do not remember whether such an exaggeration in the Forbidden City. Our car came in third, in front of two large passenger travel agencies.
The Mogao Grottoes is an oasis in the desert far to see a large Populus euphratica, and that is shaded by trees, a sign of the Mogao Grottoes - nine-story floor. Cars on the road when we saw the cliffs in the distance are rows of caves, this moment we ran off to see, but across the valley, and the holes are all filled with anti-theft doors, have been railing with.
About 8 o'clock, when allowed to go. Good car parked in the parking lot, surrounded by still deserted, and we probably walk around. 8:30 people began to be filed, Peter bought a ticket, tickets 80 yuan / person, including guide fee (per Cave has two full-time tour guide explained on the inside.) From the parking lot side of a bridge across the river walk, MO High-cave on the rock excavated in the river on the west. This moment not many tourists have been overshadowed poplar tall dense cooling off the road, like a walk in a small street in Beijing. First pass "little arch" entry, here are questions of "the Mogao Caves," a wooden arch, can be pictured. Continue to walk the "nine-floor" entry, in the early morning pictures of excellent results. Because the cave was not allowed to take photographs, and no lighting facilities, the two can be kept at the entrance packages and rent torch. Deposit bag fee for packet 2 yuan / month, flashlight rent 3 yuan / month (deposit of 10 yuan).
We are from the nine-story entrance area, the cliffs can be seen everywhere is a fan of the anti-theft doors, appear to be so mysterious caves have compiled a number, reportedly found a total of more than 700 caves, but today we can only visit 15 months. My heart beat a little acceleration, as if the children are opening gifts, knowing that something inside the box must be their own cherished, it may still have a trace of fear - I'll see something?
The caves are all open in front of flags signs, but we later learned. No one beacon - which is managing the Mogao Grottoes of a loophole. First entered the cave near an open door, the staff tells us look at the Buddha, we had to go out. Buddha's entrance is actually nine-story building, which is built in the Tang Dynasty Buddhist Mogao's largest high of 34.5 meters and is known as "Beida Buddha", after ages rebuilt, only the feet, heavily retained the Tang. In order to protect the Qing Dynasty, but also stamped on the outside of the nine-story floor.
Because I am not a Buddhist, single-minded look murals, but the cave inside is too dark, flashlight, such as fluorescent light that will come back next time to buy a emergency light! Because of years of weathering, oxidation, murals have been lost that year gorgeous color, but simply full of painted caves have been conceivable that it had charm. According to records, the construction of the Buddha statue Peking University, the craftsman is necessary to daily salt 2 Tam!
Move forward can be seen, "Nanda Buddha", the high about 26 meters, still only mural was the.
Are Wofo - the Buddha's Nirvana, like, Labidocera smile you can not help believe that the beauty of heaven.
Murals can tell there are Cao family, travel maps, Korimaro change and the "Lotus Sutra" and other paintings by the change. Each cave is full of walls painted over the top, in the year's difficult conditions, a lamp, such as beans, do not know what kind of pious supports those nameless artist had sketched out a pen full of statues of Buddha Cave?
Because caves are open to the general artistic value, each representative of the cave period (mostly the Tang Dynasty), we are familiar with Jiu Selu, Prince Sa hammer feeding tigers, all his life invisible. Pay extra money can enter the number of special cave, we can pass an open, charging 60 yuan, there is no entry. After a 9-point, visitors have been quite a lot, and each line into a cave to be that only inside the cave was full of people, the guide began to explain. Cage, however, cave sounds, some tourists are quite conscious of the speech, a cell phone, have to stand in front in order to hear clearly explained guides.
I personally think that the level of the Mogao Grottoes of the instructors are not high, seems to explain not the point, with the cave art may have some bearing on the value of the low bar.
Cave Village is set along the wall of glass screens, about 50 cm from the painting. Some people say that the best morning to visit the Mogao Grottoes, because pai lou east, how much more sunlight to come. But this is the sun is too weak, and coupled with screen separated the basic content of the murals is difficult to see.
To 10 points as well as tourists, starting a "Cross the river carp" to describe are not enough, and out of the caves have become very difficult, after a narrow porch when the ticket as the same as before the Beijing Zhan Shangju. Our visit is also a bit like a half-hearted, near to a closer look into a non-completion of the task 3.
Walking in the cave of the Plank Road on the link, you can see some of the Song dynasty built by Wai Yan. In some rock faces, but also see some remnants of murals, said Cao, when the family its peak, had about one kilometer of the rocks on both full of fine painting, do not know if these are not a relic of the year?
The last cave is Cangjing Dong, when the relics were found from here and lost. Cangjing Dong Cang Jingdong opposite the museum, which displayed a number of collections of foreign copies of Dunhuang relics.
Only a rough read lap, it took us nearly three hours. If that can open all of the cave, would not have lived here for a year? Chang Ta-chien is the case. In each cave door on the wall, but also to see the numbers he did - capitalization figures. We do not have such a possibility, to say the afternoon he will tour Yulin Cave.
Mogao Grottoes has always been in my mind a shrine: the desert oasis of forgotten years of civilization. This is three hours gave me the impression that it is so untrue, seem to see something, they seem to have nothing to keep. I'm still in a dream.
Noon to eat lunch in a restaurant, 10 yuan / copies, taste good.
Parking lot side of some craft stores, in the store I saw a sand sculpture replica of the night market last seen, said to be the exact replicas do not seem to, it is printed on a blue stone on the painting, very beautiful. There are three kinds of patterns, of which one is the Buddha head, probably in the Tang Dynasty works pretty face, plump lips smile as if the girls thought of sweet thoughts; there a Buddha in the middle one, next to King of the two statues of the Buddha The stance was the graceful "S"-shaped, Chen Chu king's bold more dignified and graceful in her deportment. The set is a special clay caves, not in here miss be able to see. Owner asking price 550 / rate, if not cash-strapped, this is indeed the best monuments of Dunhuang tour.
Parking one side of the cultural relics exhibition hall, without the other Mai Menpiao, but we do not have time to go, and do not know which is similar to and Cangjing Dong gallery.
I first knew Yulin Cave is the biography of Chang Ta-chien, he first came to the Mogao Grottoes, and it would have been shocked, and never want to leave. Later, he went to Anxi Yulin Cave, right here, is very respected. Mogao Grottoes began digging in the Qin Dynasty, AD 336 years, while the Yulin caves were built in the Tang Dynasty, late for hundreds of years.
Returned from the Dunhuang Jiayuguan way one marked "Suo Yangcheng" junction turn right, can reach 70 kilometers from Anxi Yulin Grottoes. This section is not a very good walk on the way through a nature reserve. Roads on both sides is full of unknown red bush. We also stop a shepherd to the old man asked a second road, the locals are called "poke Gap" and I wonder if there Yulin Cave. After a protected area there is a large portion of the gravel, very hard to get across, we all feel that if they should give up this always been the case had a long journey. Is about to despair, when the gravel ended before entering a village, which is a big village, trees, verdant. Out of the village to open a short road into the mountains, is still bald mountains, the roadside there are a river, the river has little more than Populus Tamarix, the river very rapid, mixed with a number of sediment, the same as the color of the Yellow River.
Two in the afternoon the whole, our destination.
The emergence of Yulin Cave was an accident for us. There is no signage, they saw two cars parked on the roadside, the driver to stop so that we continue to look at. Get off a few meters away to a valley on the edge of the valley Liangbi appeared a familiar cave door - we even to the!
Yulin Cave a bit like Xu Xia-ke's impression Yandang, Yun-Xiu Yu ground plane under, not who sets his mind on the difficult to detect.
Along a narrow stone go all the way do not see a tourist. Dedicated staff took us to buy a ticket, it seems not many people come here, ticket offices are often side-door lock. And the Mogao Caves, where a cave where not allowed to take photographs, keep the camera 2 yuan / month, but we did not take coins, ticket lady with a smile promised to our free store. Tickets printed is 40 yuan / palm, but actually it is 30 yuan / Zhang purchase, but also including guide fees. Buy a ticket out ticket arranged for us to miss a well-guided tours, a young and handsome young man.
The cave where there are armed police guard, to the cave at large in the small door is always locked, and armed police ticket before unlocking their release. Guide the hands of a bunch of keys rattled, ringing, that is, today we can visit 10 caves. Yulin Cave is currently only open part of the east coast of the valley cave, cave tour guide said that the West Bank is being repaired finishing that next year will be able to open.
The afternoon sun shines into the valleys, caves where a bright, viewing much better than the Mogao Grottoes. Kang guide also serious as it was learned that although we are only a small group of four, he is still in great detail to explain. Subsequently, a few people to join us, well-intentioned health guide took us to visit all the caves that he can open the original, we plan to stay here an hour, and knew the use of two and a half hours.
The cave where much smaller scale than the Mogao Grottoes, and only 42 caves, but the clay sculpture, frescoes, painted by the equally beautiful change in the health guide, pointing, we are able to fly close view of a Tang Dynasty - is the most Yulin Cave representative of one of the murals. There are also portraits of Cao family, they are also here to support people.
Yulin Grottoes Cave are the second group of Buddha, about 30 meters high, and the skin gilding, France, as solemn. In addition, a number of clay were badly damaged. Here, the glass screen from the wall, the relatively recent, and there is no shelter all the walls, a number of murals can be nearer a careful appreciation.
I linger in the Song Dynasty murals before, so skilled and comfortable with the outline pen I am deeply fascinated by the Act. Introduction Mogao Grottoes where Avalokitesvara mentioned a mural, gestures deportment different, each with expression, is a mural of the treasure. Here, however, those Bodhisattvas maid's hand has made me wonder: or both hands towel, or Nian Hua, such as orchids breeze, beautiful and vivid. There are those red lips, just a touch of two pens, however, or Xi or sheets, want to laugh also frown. No wonder Chang Ta-chien so admired here, and enjoy the Song Dynasty murals Here is a great place. Some of the caves there are still the Qing Dynasty murals, though very carefully described, however, when the wind strokes with Wu has been lost.
And the Mogao Grottoes, like, there are also some things Taoist Although it has been upgraded to heritage, and still only gives a sense of dross.
Mogao Grottoes gave me the impression that piece, in the Yulin caves are connected with Duo.
Hard to imagine that a few years ago, this piece of desolate desert area was once the world's most prosperous places, caravan between shuttle Suidi have all come here Xunxing, Yang Guan Avenue, also hence the name.
Too busy to do the trail at annihilation, civilization like scattered pearls have been forgotten in the desert where - Keerkezi Thousand-Buddha Grottoes, Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes, Yulin Grottoes Anxi, Wuwei tiantishan Grottoes, Zhangye mati temple caves, Jiuquan Manjusri Grottoes ... ..., I am glad himself picked the most beautiful of the two of them.
Valley Village chief Hu a lot of tall poplars, tour guides talk about the past here in the Western Xia Dynasty, when the trees more fifties pumping out steel felled by a lot. Swift river flows in the bottom, which is named after the river Yulin Cave.
16:30 when they leave here, we are very satisfied with this trip. In the town of Anxi resupply or the lovely green grapes mare's milk, 0.8 yuan / kg; sweet and sour green apple, 0.6 yuan / jin. Driver also bought a local pasta - Nang and the burning g sub (sound) to our taste, a touch of sweet little bag, but inside the burning grams plus the child in the Western Regions of the wonderful spices, taste very good. Go back on the road back Jiayuguan, the driver may be too hard, drove fast Debu, and later it was dark even slower speed, at eight o'clock to get to 70 kilometers, according to Jiayuguan springs village, through the driver's recommendation, where to eat lamb肉. Consommé and yellow simmered two approaches, according to jin point, a very delicious meal only took 80. Waiters boy to say that according to the driver so-called "village people", very simple.
Passing off Jiayuguan City, 11 to 10 pm during the light, seen from afar is very beauty. Dark, empty desert on top of the sky off the city as if the palaces were built.
11:00 Back to the traffic hotels, 6, back to Beijing K44 meeting turned out not reserve tickets. The driver had also promised to help us think of ways, but he has asked friends not buy the wrong vehicle trips. However, he said he could help us to send vehicles to shore up a friend on the train again to help us make up sleeper, according to him, will help us to solve.
We are a bit dejected the back room, pay the driver the fare that he was a quite good person, but by other drivers egg on the road also raised prices. We can see that the hard work of his, and perhaps there will be National Day purchase price or bar, so three days after the fare gave him added to 1,300 yuan, everybody happy.
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