2002,07,29 Kashgar Old Town

Yesterday evening, when entering Kashgar, my heart a good burst of hair tight.

In general, entering a city, a landscape, I basically refuse to read the propaganda pictures of the place. We should know that a large number of published color pictures, often very far from the truth - like it wants to buy a picture postcard of Xinjiang, I do not pick out a real version.

A lot of postcards, at dusk in the desert or red, such as blood, either clips pasted ray Tuodui; highland lake was man-made technology, processed, blue incredible, that color make you doubt whether it can be naturally present in nature; Turpan a grape vine, it can be mounted in different varieties of grapes; a small city streets, in order to demonstrate prosperity can be covered with a world-class automotive ......

Therefore, I turn away from the publicity album is always an attitude. I have not seen anything about a picture of Kashgar.

But Kashgar in my mind is not a blank. I've seen a lot of creative residential architects in Kashgar sketches, I also have one of Xinjiang's artist friend, he painted Kashgar, then a thick yellow pen, almost from the drop down on the canvas; a block of paint between the cracks, so I believe it is inside the Old City of Kashgar, many old houses of the wall.

The painting allowed me to see the ancient Kashgar, as well as heavy.

Therefore, I apparently decided that: Kashi should be a heavy yellow, heavily suppress the clock.

But in front of Kashi made me helpless:

Go all the way from the southern border of desert highway in this endpoint, along the way and seen many rich ethnic customs; However, in front of Kashgar is like a slightly messy in the Central Plains city. A large number of Han Chinese from me brushed past, bustling, not the least bit relaxed feeling.

Construction would not have said, a variety of building materials were posted on the streets, with the exception did not mind that a heavy rammed earth.

Through the gray sky can not see the distant snow-capped mountains.

Is the phrase again, a testament to old-fashioned words: I hope that the greater the greater the disappointment? !

koko has always been an endless perform household's life, early in the morning she had a man ran out to find a local User (Big Bad Wolf Rock), for everyone to apply for the border tomorrow, to Taxkorgan card.

I suddenly laughing: For Kashi, I was too nervous. Kashi has a great Id Kah Mosque, standing here can not see, that shows that there should be new town Kashgar, the old town of the points. - For the Metro, and now there is what the tourists like me one of their illusions?

We went to Old Town.

I hope that Metro had not completed its invasion of the Old City.

Inevitably, like almost all the travelers, like, first plunging to a great Id Kah Mosque.

I am interested to see the Grand Mosque is not great, because I have seen a lot of time in North Africa mosques; and then again in Istanbul saw your fill, then mosque inside the alarming number of difficult and costly.

Id Kah Great Mosque open to visitors less than two years. Facial bones I'd do not want Muslims to open up their mosques: the mosque should be a quiet place, is a faithful and God - or rather whispers and their own place; Once open, the atmosphere will be inherent in the outsiders continuous shock, and slowly lose color.

Into the temple, I was at the entrance to carefully read the "Visitors Guide." Muslims have opened their hearts to their homes, this does not mean that we can be disrespectful.

A result, only too happy to put End "in pursuit of death," companion, or a man wearing shoes and kick set foot on the faithful to worship Zhandian above.

Soon as Duan He, then, streaks are also to visit the mosque Uygurs polyethylene plastic over the eyes of strange.

If such a vision more, one day, Id Kah Mosque there will be re-closed to visitors a day.

I was thinking: Our Ta Fang, can minimize the invasion of taste?

The same happened is that Tian Grand Bazaar. A companion in the taste of delicious kebabs Uygurs, when claim whatever they like, but still nodded praised Tao: tastes good呀! And pork, almost!

Counterparts were terrified. - If you have a conflict when the Uygur people and can you say in southern Xinjiang is so unsafe place?

For me, Id Kah's body mass is not large, religion is not very dense atmosphere. However, this is only because I am not the first time I visited a mosque only.

Id Kah Mosque next to a bustling bazaar. This bazaar inside, Uygur characteristics of goods and our people everywhere everyday mixed together, seems to have momentum, but haphazard.

Old City streets are almost always directed at Id Kah Mosque openings, but the fixed sights to visit is not yet over, I am not a person's own Liu Dadao the Old City.

We will then go to Xiangfei Mu. Because of Xiang Fei, and bit by bit the story of Emperor Qianlong of the Chinese people for such attractions are almost always receives congratulations for. In fact Xiangfei buried Eastern Qing Tombs in Hebei, where there is at most of the Xiang Fei Yi Guanzhong fills it is actually a family tomb.

Tomb skin using glazed tiles, and mosaics, as was first used by the ancient Arabs acquired a building technology; Later the same as in Arabic, is used by people around the world.

Daoshi size of the Jing-tang, places of worship rather rammed earth architecture.

Pu-yu Su toured the mausoleum, it is a Uighur poet's tomb, the main choice of prime white building material, fitness wisely.

The poet in people's minds all have a romantic side, it is said to be in the moonlight visit to the mausoleum Pu-yu Su, will appreciate the mausoleum overtly or covertly sheen.

People would go to Kashi to see the east coast of Tuman River Grand Bazaar. Unfortunately, when we drove past, there has not Bazaar.

Tuman River east of Highway 1 near steep slopes, can imagine the Grand Bazaar, when a donkey cart full of lay out all the way open, the more interesting.

Last until the free time, (often before the advent of this time, I miss the tremendous journey alone in its benefits.) I first arrived at the Kashgar Old Town.

Necessary to introduce from the Id Kah Mosque, plunging to a path of non-Ichiro Qiasa image: a blue long-sleeved black Uighur men's trousers, a red visor Crimping a broken towel tightly to buckle in a a mess of long hair on the foot of a pair of sandals lime soil. Person, one walk, neck and ears on the side of the camera with a towel it will swing to swing go, like a Japanese devils from the neck following the same village disguised as Uygurs.

This is the body line of the first to worship the sun by the gift of Xinjiang. - Although I returned to Beijing even after there is nothing deeply attached to each task, dark and Daoshi afraid, but the sunburn of the skin on the somewhat cumbersome.

Non-Ichiro walking on the streets in Beijing, always an aggressive posture, but in Kashgar's streets, walking posture is very modest.

A respect for the ancient residence of the architects of their motherland can no longer Zaiqu illusions in China, those in need of effective protection of the ancient residential neighborhoods can also gateway to the old regularity of breathing. After so many bad is no longer a complete example of the development itself: Pingyao, Shanxi, Hunan Fenghuang, Zhouzhuang, Zhejiang and so on, there are so many to save a little integrity are some examples of last legs: Yi Xi, Anhui, Yunnan, Lijiang ... ...

From a serious protector of ancient architecture in the eyes look at the past, Qiasa way street facade has gradually come out significant gestures neither fish nor fowl. New construction methods inevitably be placed on the face of the Old City, as residents of the Old City to lead a new life style, but also because those of us after the tourists coming here to eat, to live, to play ..... .

I do not have time to once again repeat what I have said before that paradox, I must sigh, after plunging deep into the body of the Old City of Kashgar.

Body is still.

Narrow streets. Between neighbors can stand their own door, stuck his head affectionately say hello, Cheche between people sitting in waiting, to talk about your family's daily necessities.

Branch to do beams across the street openings rammed the Schedule. Openings inside the shadow school of cool, two are the sunshine; carrying water, Uighur women from the sun into the shade, taking a breather after the sun went into another piece.

Rammed earth walls. Mottled wall again after smear, and then slowly re-mottled sunlight. Rammed earth walls of reinforced concrete are unable to do anything to be able to express a straight line section, so the entire space can be seen as a soft slow passage of time. - Like a dial hands Dali sculpture, drop into the aging of the skin time to gather, from the rammed earth walls on the falling drop by drop, Guizhen to the mother earth ......

Old Town there are many long, narrow and deep Jiong's streets, even weave together, occasionally can inadvertently created a comfortable space. I can see a quiet feel a lot of architectural space, with the elongated shadow slowly changing the tension. Occasionally, a group of children from this space through the chirp, the sun also followed jitter up; and then the children disappeared, the sun had just put away the shadow of an active off, back to the original position, and slowly inch by inch to continue to climb in the wall shift ......

A hot Asian way as well.

Kids followed behind you, joyfully running ahead or behind, will soon say goodbye to you out loud, after Yi Liuyan to drilling their own homes.

This is their childhood, our childhood.

Non-Ichiro 02,08,10 in the northern burqin

Author: fylfeimi