Memorable Kekexili
, "And the soso -" a car to the Kunlun Pass, the same car partners cheers. This is a Tibetan custom, each after Yakou thanks and pray that God bless his bon voyage. Driving through the Kunlun Pass, also left the Hoh Xil - 6 Yue 5, I have completed Suonandajie Nature Protection Station volunteer service work, good-bye to this piece of magic, the beautiful land.
Suonandajie Protection Station is a non-governmental environmental protection organization "Green River" to promote environmental protection, the establishment of the Yangtze River source region, and this year the country began to recruit volunteers, increase the promotion and intensity. See this news in the newspaper I would mind a move, because of the Hoh Xil has long been admired, but the past few years, where the anti-poaching a sensation, and last year set up a protected area police substation, but our newspapers have rarely been reported. Try! So, I submitted his name on the Internet.
When told selected as volunteers in May, I was disaster has had: after all, to serve one month ah, but in May of volunteers because the bear, "65 Green Day" in the planning and pre-liaison work, but also to do more for five days the newspaper did not issue it seems to have been such a long interview. But I think when you tell the director and editor, received a great encouragement and support! Ministry of leadership of the office said that although the staff is very tight, but we fully support such an interview. Community leaders at a conference that should participate in the volunteer service is included in an event the newspaper caucus. In the following submitted to consult on the Sun Yongbo's president to give special instructions apply for life insurance, Xiao-Yan Sun editor instructed, "God, I cracked open up the struggle, the spirit and soul of the journalists," the care and encouragement led me Beishou moved and inspired.
April 25 is my 29-year-old's birthday. On this day morning, I boarded the train to go West.
(1) Volunteer Life
May 1, to protect the station the next morning, I and two volunteers from Fujian Province, the transfer of work in April, where volunteers also consciously formed a monthly flag-raising ceremony during the handover. I also gave his life for the first time a flag in hand, there is no music, no audience, we sing our national anthem, in the thin but pure highland air, the male chorus of the national anthem simple, solemn and loud. Looking at the brightly colored flag rising in his hands, mixed feelings, tears, a few allegedly attempted to grab the orbital. Here, I heard the volunteer slogan: "In order to Hoh Xil, laid down their lives in the month."
Suonandajie protection stood at 2952 kilometers of Qinghai-Tibet Highway, started in 1997, has become a symbol of the Qinghai-Tibet line construction. Here useful building materials in China Antarctic Great Wall Station built barracks, exhibition hall, kitchen, toilets, the use of wind energy, solar energy small power plants, a 28-meter-high observation tower; the same time, there is a band of the buckets of Beijing Jeep, two computers Marine satellite telephone and television. In addition to the monthly two volunteer staff, there are two in his early 20 permanent staff, rolling over - once a small group of Tibetan wild yak players are pleased - "Green River" office staff. In last year's team to withdraw before the wild yak, yak teams here, was nursed back to health when anti-poaching and transit areas.
In the volunteers, I looked a little "earth", we are all shoulder height of a man climbing a package, what winter clothes, sleeping bags ranging, and I was Dinglinger Barang, size 5 bags, but not the same as outdoor survival equipment. But I have something on the conquest of all, make people feel that I do not "soil" but also very professional - I brought a police uniform, which is rare for new police uniforms Qinghai-Tibet line, but there is also No hair training uniform.
I was to know that this is standing in the Hoh Xil Tibetan Plateau (it used to feel that Tibet be considered), where an average elevation of 5,000 meters, protection stations chose a river through the lowlands, but there are 4,500 meters above sea level (Lhasa is 3700 meters) . To "3000 meters is a pass, 4,000 meters is a test of 5,000 meters is the limit" to say, I am also a little bit of the too familiar. In Golmud, we have the doctor's advice to turn Chongqing female volunteers left, and let her recover and then in a cold, because cold at high altitude can cause pulmonary edema.
Early elevation of 4767 meters of the Kunlun Pass, a break in the tie I see more swab for Suonandajie monument monument, had intended to rush pictures. This run, I did find at the foot of hair floating, a bit like a stepped on a thick soft pad. Of altitude sickness! I quickly stopped a foot, but she's already begun to "Huchihuchi" breath of. Protection Station in the first two days, I got a severe headache at first thought it was a good no say a word without a break, then it can not help but speak out, before we know it is altitude sickness, is induced by hypoxia. I quickly ate the plateau characteristic of high-dose "Red Jin days" of proprietary Chinese medicines This slowly mend. So to remind you that on the plateau, in advance on the medication, do not wait hypoxia supplemented.
Then I could have seen a flu symptoms, sore throat, forehead on the cold-warm-up. In May of the Hoh Xil, night after night in five to ten degrees below zero. There are diesel-fueled boilers burning 8 pm every day, 0:00 off, so that the room temperature can heat to 25 degrees, the guarantor can be into bed, but must move forward in the room temperature Rumeng Xiang. The first days are half awake, I stay up between the dawn, because the middle of the night there is no difference between room temperature and the outside in the morning should be the Coke bottle (Note: This is a chamber pot) was liquefied in order to put down, another toothbrush every time run out must be drying, or when the re-use is a "Popsicle."
I sleep to build is three quilts, and does not go beyond thermal underwear, including socks. I had two pillows to sleep later in crossing the advice of a doctor added another one, sleeping position changed from a flat lie on the right. I have a bad habit, that is, hooded sleeping, because I have changed here, afraid of choking, but he is sure to make bedtime sleeve sweater in a ride on the forehead. Just arrived in very bad week of rest during the day and then storm into the house and I never lie down, but hold on a military coat, curled inside the cab of the jeep on a warm figure.
Cold is in the May 5 to 50 km away, five beams to make environmental information, when a shot was better, then into the clinic when I thought the wrong door, and it is actually a small shop, which Hun Hun secretly, In the instant noodles, mineral water, one side of the cupboard I found some medicines. Is salesperson obviously doctor, this middle-aged men, one of my accent, asked: "Where are you in that way?" I am in order to ensure the safety of the "gold content" said: "Ministry of Public Security!" From the point of view no expression This man's surprise, but very funny questioned: "Which Ministry of Public Security? is the central it?" added one: "Here recently quite good, right?" All the answers are to bundle more and pleased, although I He noted with satisfaction that he took out the disposable syringes, but still concerned about the manner instructed one: "Do not put needles wrong Oh!" - in the protection of stations, rolling over and pleasure are often manifestations of volunteers will each exaggeration to express them, I really do not know how they would "set" My image.
Protection Station of the three meals a day, morning is red porridge, eating cookies, I'm afraid stomach acid ate bubble bread, lunch and dinner most by rolling over and happy to do. Catering is a bi-monthly to 200 kilometers away, Golmud City purchase, vegetables, mainly potatoes and cauliflower in the future as long as the conditions, these two vegetables and I think I only ate at the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. We are cooking fuel is clean, efficient LPG, but because lack of oxygen, the fire is still little enthusiasm; and here, because the pressure's sake, water only 80 degrees, not only rice, that is rolling over like to eat noodles, but also with the pressure cooker to cook. While guarding a river here, but because just thaw, water and rotting grass turns a heavy smell of drinking water can only be 50 kilometers away or 100 kilometers away budongquan Nachitai play.
A small river of water that is able to wash your face brush your teeth, the lake knot with ice, in the sun for a very good morning, can you hear the ice melting when the "bass bass" sound, how poetic. But here beauty is indeed too "cold" people, I was really embarrassed and then by the third day of wet tissue paper it came to the river, the river biting, teeth can bear face can only put wet towels wiped on the line. I generally only twice in the water rub towel, wet it first time facial, and the second screw over the net, and thus has been frozen red hand, so I wash it once a day also hands.
But I still say that we are here on condition that the Qinghai-Tibet line the best. Perhaps because we all know that the life of hard, so people from around the country is full of volunteers, admiration, which greatly enhanced the affinity of environmental advocacy. Volunteers not only in the protection stations introduce visitors to the past, the Hoh Xil and animal protection knowledge, and an average of once a week to the settlements, depot, school, Road classes, rail advocacy site, volunteers have been traversing the footprints of 300 km along the eastern edge of the Hoh Xil.
(2) The good news coverage in our planning of the Ministry of room, the newspaper agreed to set up for this volunteer trip, "a report from the Hoh Xil" section. In that period of time, the national strike-hard struggle, and firearms and other major actions Ji-explosion after another, but also the 80th anniversary of the imminent arrival of the front page to open this column can be very valuable. To do a good job reporting work must be fully prepared before departure, I interviewed the person in charge of national forest public security bureau. In a tense trip, I have to Qinghai Wildlife Authority, the Qinghai Forest Public Security Bureau, Chinese Academy of Sciences Northwest Plateau Biology, the Hoh Xil Protected Areas Authority and the Public Security Bureau, Golmud City Public Security Bureau to conduct interviews with forestry and police stations, master a lot of first-hand, more comprehensive material, in order to enrich the content of laying the foundation reported.
Many interviewed are all the Hoh Xil and the protection of Tibetan antelope has in-depth study. Qinghai Wildlife Authority Zheng Jie is an official and an expert, he not only describes the nature reserve in Qinghai Province and Qinghai province build an ecological concept, and the analysis of deep-seated reasons for poaching Tibetan antelopes , provides for the protection of Tibetan antelope to create a positive conditions and trade control of Xining藏羚羊保护International Symposium on details. Qinghai Forest Public Security Bureau Zhaomingkezhang mastered the public security organs in the anti-poaching a large number of files, and numerous in-depth Hoh Xil, and poaching at the trial conducted in-depth exchange of molecules, with their equally a study of experienced professionals in the Hoh Xil. Another example is Golmud City Public Security Bureau police station in the multi-Jie, director of forestry, then participated in the rescue Suonandajie action.
In the interview, because I was a police reporter, it has also been interviewed a frank exchange, access to a lot of the outside world difficult to obtain information. For example Zhao said in the past a lot of media coverage of imports of off-road driving poaching molecule car, holding a submachine gun fire Tibetan antelope, has always been cracked from the case to see that their guns are used in small-caliber rifle, poaching molecules rarely will open high-end vehicles, they also pay attention to cost accounting. Poaching molecules are mostly Muslim farmers, Zhao my calculations, if a nine-member group generally four vehicles to enter, they played inside in winter months to receive 1,000 Tibetan antelope furs, to the best of the year price of 500 yuan for sale, can be of 50 million; In addition to food, fuel, you can count them what to buy cars arrive at cost-effective. In the Hoh Xil, car problems at any time, the general good repair of imported cars, so most of the election poaching molecular Beijing Jeep. Zhao also introduced, although it is significantly reduced poaching though, but do not rule out more subtle poaching, they learned that some poachers and even walking tractor into the open, and some river go through, put the machine removed the back the past, assembled and then forward. The advantages of the precious Tibetan antelope furs, and even poaching molecule with emotion, and once the public security organs to a group of molecules trapped in the mountains caught poaching, they say, this sheep's clothing is so good that we are working on frozen can not move, out into the warm skin yard for a while transformed.
Out of Public Security's trust, I have this in the province has also seen the "Shahtoosh" shawls, is the West aristocratic pursuit of this shawl was produced Canglingyangrong trade demand, eventually leading to a large number of Tibetan antelopes has been greedy people hunting kill. 1 "Shahtoosh" at market prices in 3000 U.S. dollars to 30,000 U.S. dollars between the groping "Shahtoosh" and feel very good, there are velvet soft feeling, another light silk slip. In order to confirm this is called "ring shawls batch," we took out of female volunteers on a ring worn on the index finger, when this length of two meters, one meter wide right angle to good shawl ring hole, gently 1 pull, shawls come on through, so amazing. When I requested that police take on a shawl camera was stopped, because it was not seized, which is sent to the Hong Kong side of the specimen, our country would not have the market. This opportunity too hard won, and later learned that the source of the Yangtze River ran Shiwuliunian of Yang Xin ( "Green River" responsible person Suonandajie Protection Station creator) also have not seen "Shahtoosh."
Whereas in the past made yak team guy there, I not only interviewed the park ranger that year their hard experience, also heard a lot of anti-poaching in the interesting story. Poaching molecules are usually hunting at night much because they found groups of Tibetan antelopes has been lights a photo on a loss, you can shoot, so many law enforcement officers to attack at this time, but also found in the night lights during the day chasing targets than cars that India should Liso much more. On one occasion, wild yak is necessary to close a poaching gang members, the opposite side of the cars are shouting: "My friends, you where the Tibetan antelope was found with no?" Side players will be counted on the count: "There is - in" an easy way captured the guy right time. On another occasion, a group of poaching, whether from exhaustion of the elements found in the early hours of the distant tents, we drove from, approaching only found in tent in front of the car hanging lights, so panic flee. Morning, the team found a suspicious car to India in the qumar he side to catch up with this poaching gang.
Hoh Xil protection of wild animals was highly effective, and I have seen much wildlife beyond my imagination, not only in the depth of protected areas, that is, can see the edge of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway. Because of their scope of activities of large opportunity for good, and coincides with the seasonal migration of animals, I saw the Tibetan antelope, wild yak, Tibetan wild ass, Tibetan gazelle (Mongolian gazelle), wolves, sand fox, Bar-headed Goose, golden eagle and so on, to see the number and types of animals far more than the previous volunteers, and even so many in-depth multi-fixing Hoh Xil all by surprise.
I love photography, this is an excellent opportunity to shoot wild animals, but the camera is not very satisfactory condition, 300 mm, 5.6 lens aperture is also far from satisfactory, filming on the excitement and defects spent to meet the immediate fashionable word "pain HAPPY."
Of these animals, Tibetan antelope, Tibetan gazelle are too vigilant, but also in the wilderness far from the running speed of vehicles could be done and a good opportunity to shoot only in the early morning or after the snow along the road, happened to the side of the road will be 50 meters found within them; wild yak is a rare opportunity to be able to Xian Zhuo, there would have to seize an opportunity, no matter how the shooting conditions; only Tibetan wild donkey, sand fox the most enjoyable film.
The most interesting shoot wild ass is the May 19 afternoon, I stand in front of 1,500 meters in the protection of discovered a group of wild ass, and some was lying lazily in the sun, I decided to take pictures on foot. The beginning, I was very careful to dual-use volunteers winter clothes to change into a dark side, hidden away as far as possible low-lying land. I remember the experience of a number of photographers, wild animals, afraid of moving things, while more than a small still life of vigilance, so there are three or four hundred meters when stop-go, but when herds had been alert. However, perhaps because they are in groups, I also was a very slow moving speed of the "animal", coupled with the lazy ass sex, they ran more than 10 meters stopped, and also looked to me here. I even at a distance of about 100 meters with the herds locked in a stalemate for quite some distance to shoot almost, and I found that they seemed less scared and they have been fighting ring post, herds are not nervous, I was simply sing songs, Life on a String side shoot. I later thought should be a low-angle shot, they squat down, from the viewing box I found that 45 of the donkey looked to my surprise, curiosity toward side 56 meters away, I look at all happy laughing, the sound. The now out of about 4,000 meters.
The first to see the sand fox, do not think a good film, small animals, bile smaller. Then I realized, sand fox is a very able to reflect the relationship between man and animal subjects, as it often in the protection of Station activities, and food will pass through the Qinghai-Tibet highway (although the other animals when they will certainly move through, but it is The only way to Xian Zhao's). End of the month, I have found in a follow-up shot, as long as you feed the sand fox action should not be too exaggerated, to maintain a distance of about 20 meters, it would patiently to catch a mouse without it how reasonable you are. Touched on this principle, I even forward with twice, each time taking a four or five thousand meters. I took a walk on the road sand fox, sand fox looking at the cars in the embankment, sand fox walked in front of such protection stations. On that occasion, I have a height at the roadside opposite the sand fox Pufu Zhao focus, I found it surprisingly made a serious and take about a camera aiming, hey! It did so at one meter in front squatting a mouse, because the rats on the 10 cm away from the hole, so it dare not act rashly. More than wonderful!
Walk on the plateau is very tired, it was said, where the foot is equivalent to 30 kg load plain walking. I can understand is that breathing is very powerful, very exaggerated, speed, an average of 20 minutes to go 1000 meters. To 5 mid to late, my physical recovery very well, I basically went to a three-kilometer two days outside the Yeya Hu; the longest time, I went to a volunteer out of 10 kilometers, the two feel were headache and the halo, it is clear too much oxygen.
Interviews, filming on the one hand, but even more importantly, prepare reports. Hoh Xil is little communication conditions, the protection point in the past through maritime satellite telephone dial-up Internet access, but this phone by the end of April has been struck by lightning, and I that she is brought a portable maritime satellite phone to replace. But when it comes to this phone does not live up to expectations may be a modem problem, can not dial-up Internet access. I do not very nervous, because, taking into account the timeliness of reporting, I am April 30 at the Golmud City on the e-mail sent back a draft. In view of this situation, I decided to take the manuscript on disk Tuoshu Ren back to Golmud, so I know where the house owner of a computer e-mail, so they sent back two draft. However, everything hangs in the balance, May 9, when I was 200 kilometers away with the newspaper to get in touch Tanggula Township when the accident that the newspaper had received only a third part of manuscript. This disrupted my coverage plan, and to the rear has brought great difficulties editing and they took great thoughts before putting the draft into a third part of the draft opening.
In order to ensure that the manuscript can be sent back to editorial board, I also bought a house IC Cato to the computer owner, the editorial department telephone to tell him and then Received e-mail password also told him, asking him with finalized, check to give a clear editorial call.
The content of the reports, I also adjusted according to the intention of editorial board, reports should conform to News version of the feature highlights, news-oriented as far as possible to find significant coverage of events, but also to take into account local conditions of communication, in addition to special events, it should be noted to avoid temporality. So I sent Introduction In addition to the Hoh Xil and the protection of stations (including several law enforcement and protection stations) of the manuscript, I was sent back to the Hoh Xil-poaching activities are initially contained, volunteer activities, the construction of the Qinghai-Tibet railway security work, the source of the Yangtze River environmental status and Hoh Xil wildlife conservation issues facing the manuscript. In addition, the newspaper at the end of April was also made on the Hoh Xil, wildlife photography edition, be considered for this report was a foreshadowing.
Summarize the front of the back of the report, can be said to convey the amount of information is enough, but the manuscript is not enough vivid writing, a number of fresh things are not reflected.
(3) I am the police in Hoh Xil, the number of civilian police is limited. Tanggula station has three police, but they are now focusing on maintaining law and order and the household registration. The four protected areas of law enforcement station, responsible for the Hoh Xil wildlife conservation police a total of only five, they and the Forestry staff are mainly to do with the way search of work. In addition to the work of the Authority officials who patrol outside the organization, these four protection stations are basically unable to do so, because they each station is only one car, while the cycle did not dare enter the Hoh Xil, while in addition to their salaries, operational funds are not guaranteed. By the end of December last year to now, they are only the police membership, there is no rank, no new police uniforms, not even weapons, so I left, they know that they go to hunt down a poaching gang, the mind is very concerned about the safety of those police officers. In such a place, I, as a police sense of responsibility has become more and more intense.
June 1, eat breakfast time, the railway several survey personnel to protect the station by car to visit, I brought Fanpen and everyone standing in front of the house drink and chat. Suddenly, I found parked on the road south of the few people on board ran down the embankment, although the distance of about 800 meters, but obviously they will never be able to see the rest or the convenience. I alert them: "rolling over! Fast Look at a few people to do?" A survey crew said they had just come to see a group of black-necked crane, I said, There is no crane is only Bar-headed Goose. Then there are the two ran down the embankment, while the front of the two men had been startled bird, a look that Bar-headed Goose, but they usually fly away in a Jianren Jiu Yan, today the same as if wounded to fly low and fly still. "Hey - stopped!" I shouted a cry, but because not too far a fundamental role.
"Walk!" Bundle say any more. We all got back to the house red, bar more uniform wear of Forestry, glad to have washed out, I gave him my police uniform. This is a violation of discipline, but it was an emergency, we are weak, difficult to predict to the on-site meetings What's the matter. I would like to have to do more of a "false police" but can be more than a source of strength. Investigation car drivers, said: "Open my car to go!"
The name of the drivers are very experienced and stone, these people's car approaching, he sounded the siren and the car stuck in their former team. Car did not stop, we washed down, the situation is a surprise: These people are trying to seize two Bar-headed Goose fledgling animal protection! Rolling over and pleased at the front blocking the hands of a young goose is also holding a man, I have to seize another man at the roadside, and showed the work permit and told him stopped Hold still. At this time, marsh where a man and a woman began to back away a woman to the front on the interpretation: "This thing is a blast! We want to see!" I said to her: "You This is against the law! This is a Crime! "These people will soon be awed. We are also in their cabin where they found two young geese. Because we do not have the power of punishment, so I let rolling over and pleased with the team marched 10 kilometers to go outside the law enforcement and protection of qumar he stops, I put three young geese brought back Suonandajie Protection Station.
Two hours later, qumar he protect the station to go back to express his thanks and introduced under the protected area management section 35 pairs of hunting activities that would impose 300-10000 yuan fine, violated the law according to Article 364 of the Penal Code punishable by five years imprisonment or criminal detention. Through telephone contact, protected areas, the Authority requested that the suspect back to Golmud City, processing, three young geese have also been taken away. The next day we learned that the Board under the facts and the attitude of these people had been dealt with leniently.
From this incident, I deeply feel that the local people love animals, animal protection awareness and consciousness has yet to be improved, the legal system is weak, especially the understanding of protected areas especially.
In the Hoh Xil, as a volunteer to be interviewed also became the object, continue to accept a China Central Television, China Youth Daily, Qinghai Daily, China Environment News, and other units reporters. When asked the most is "Why do you come here?" "What's the catch you here?", The former I have already mentioned in the text, which I have often asked myself. To conclude, I feel that there are at least three aspects of harvest: First, enrich the life experiences, and second, exercise its own news gathering and reporting capabilities, and the third is the Hoh Xil environmental protection has been a profound experience and understanding.
In the Hoh Xil, a number of news counterparts, explorers, travelers on I often talk about the sentence: "Hoh Xil addictive!" When I return to this bustling city, and I can not tell this piece of magic moment What is the land people worrying about, hard to break away, so I began looking forward to the next trip.
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