Leisurely Gui Yang
Sequence subway car window, waves of the flash dies sight of the city skyline left in the dust, but also brought back my memories of that called "Yangshuo" a small county, I have never account for this six-day trip to write what; night, downstairs, "Jade" restaurant with the usual clamor, clutter diners sitting in front of a flower bar, and waited his rounds. Jiliguala chatter, the number of exposed some impatience. Boundaries of the face of this noise started again, I finally hold herself back any ... ...
Day Guilin Saturday afternoon departure from Hong Kong to Shenzhen to Guilin Silver Lake station, bus interchange, arrived Sunday morning at seven o'clock. 10 hours of the bumps in the midst of looking in the trace. Three friends looking for a home not far from the bus station Anwar hotels, washing hair moment began the day in Guilin tour. Taxi drivers have approached the question whether or not to chartered, asking price 120 yuan / day -哇靠! However, for children buddies online price survey had come - the 50 had put him Gaode instill obedience. But my heart I wonder child: the taxi industry to implement self-financing basis, the driver paid a fixed amount per day to the company, plus a full day of gasoline, 50 yuan before enough ah?
Guilin is using Clinton secured 100 million U.S. dollars to the World Bank loans to build the "two rivers and four lakes" building, when visitors can save the trouble of multiple transfer tickets, in one step by boat around the various scenic spots in Guilin. We first went to the Reed Flute Cave. Style in the cave under the light irradiation although breathtaking stretch, but it is also strange things; only the management in order to prevent a large number of visitors stopped a long time in which to take in batches into the method, but the lighting is only a few minutes of each attraction. If you are a photography fan, and have high requirements on the composition, it can only moderate in the dark, when the next batch of tourists come to shoot so that their satisfactory results.
The plan then went to Elephant Trunk Hill can be close to noon, the sky was the sun into a strong, white, not suitable for taking pictures; therefore decided to include this "City Standard" for the evening. The driver asked what we want to go to Guilin, the two gems, crystal shops to see. An Men are also people who travel extensively, rivers and lakes on the rules all know: as long as go there blindly around in circles, reported that a Road be and what do not have to buy it, store the driver a few liters of gasoline will be Shangji. Anyway, now the weather is not good, would he give the driver a face bar comrades.
Turning to local products shops, without mentioning the veteran center of Guilin, tea. Tea little Miss will we introduce a quiet little room, slowly with the kung-fu tea to entertain visitors. A delightful cooking tea and white teeth turn Zhu Lan. Miss side of tea as he taught us the steps kung fu tea, the name of each province. Although I am not speak the tea ceremony, and believe that these terms, of course, demonstrates the fine Chinese culture and language, different kinds of tea is a unique personality all the newcomers yuan God. Citron tea-ching, Osmanthus tea Yu, Jin, sweet tea, you can never be confused. Three sip was ecstatic, actually forget that with the prospect of a friendly young lady a souvenir photo. (For this point, large P still brood.) At the end, Miss do not "warm" to sell, simply, used the phrase "You can pick and choose," I very willingly and large P bought some of all Guihua Wang tea. Later, we discuss that the girl's sales techniques has reached a "non-measure is golden measure" realm, really "a pair of soft eyes, look at what you do for whole days spent in passers-by; slightest red lips, leaving many come and go over the destined-off . "
Out of the tea, the sky too early to say. Worked in the former reference material in terms of tourism, Guilin itself is nothing to offer can be presented. On the mountain, Duxiu Peak, Fubo Hill, Diecai Hill, Yaoshan more or less the same; on the water, Lijiang is the Yang Di to xingping part of the essence, after a section of the city is cramped vision. The so-called "Guilin mountains and rivers under heaven" should refer to Lijiang River in Guilin, south of the lower reaches. Guilin is only because the municipal administrative region, by its name only. What is the driver recommended we go to Villa, and Yaoshan Xiong Hu, one asking ticket price, the highest of all attractions. Original driver's main source of income is not just a mere 50 yuan / day car money, but tickets are being drawn into the various attractions! We do not care about his "proposal" to Duxiu Peak lightly twisted my; so soft sky after the Elephant Trunk Hill before the camera pictures, it is doing so and so this one trip, the tour will be the end of a day trip in one day is not nearly excited since the advent of the desire of artistic creation process.
Guilin's sex industry is relatively developed, often asked in the street at night Do you want to see Miss Russia. It is estimated that business was not very good recently, there's Chiruan Fan of pestering until we've got rid of three blocks.
Starting the second day Longsheng got up early the next morning and bought a bus ticket to leave for Longsheng, toward the long-standing admirers embarked on the Dragon's Back terraced fields. Heard people say that the last paragraph of the journey is set mountain, turning invisible when the road ahead; Fan La Valley last week, there is a bus the passengers on board were all killed. But the ancients said, "fuyi and near, You are many," not to take some risks do not see the unusual scene.
Terraced housing in the area of local ethnic minorities to Zhuang majority, both Miao and Yao ethnic groups, so people also used to treat this place called "Zhuang Village." Our Los foot of the mountain yellow car, plans all the way up the stockade, along the way, a taste of what the magnificent mountain terraces. The car will have the Yao women came up to help us pack, asking price 15 yuan per person -哇靠again! There is no diamond, no football this porcelain live, buddy child, I was online to keep their reserve price and tangible, "shallot mixed with tofu - clear message" from the past. So half-hearted for a while, and large P on a 5 yuan / person price of a transaction. Large F, the heaviest pack up, but out of humanitarian considerations, he refused to hire labor. Maybe he thought that this is the behavior of living when the animals so that, coupled with dubious authenticity to bargain to see both of us feel in the drain the last drop of blood and sweat of working people; large P and I probably did not belong to the kind of Heart not the type of the lung have the feeling that women do tourism certainly higher than the home farm output, and the backpack is better than hoe-lun, lun, easy sickle bar! hire people to backpack in form is then point "exploitation" of the taste, may be, in essence, is "returning wealth to the people", why not?
Into the Zhuang Village, passing "Amon Hotel." Said to be hotels, in fact Zhuang people in their own home a few vacate the room for guests to stay. Traditionally, women's activities Zhuang ability than men strong, so the hostess hotel sign is the name of Liu Chao Meng played. Then listen to her that there are several visitors pipe man of the house called "Amon", see no reaction, became aware of a mistake. Triple lodging and asking price 15 yuan / day; is probably the normal negotiating skills have got used to, and we pretended to go look, counter-offer 10 yuan / day; man of the house is only mediocre to used the phrase "10 to 10 bar" one is just very readily agreed.
Eaten lunch, then leaving for the camera hastily rush to North Korea on the 2nd scenic spots. I remember when the Valley fog uphill not completely disappeared, but the pomp has been looking at from afar photo by Wei; the time just after noon, everything under the sun no Dunxing. When the first group of the green curve will jump out from the mountains of the moment, it looks as though the whole person lighter of the same; Shu Shu thick meandering line with the changes in Yamagata QU Zhan, the rule has no input on rhythm; four scattered Zhuang Walled like floating on the waves above, with large flat roofs silhouetted against the twists and turns Yamada. Looking along the line, and claim whatever they like, time when the disease slow, unexpectedly went so far as inter-Thanks for the Memories from Chopin's impression Rubato (Chinese translation of "free rhythm"). Dragon's Back terraced fields built in the Yuan Dynasty, completed in the early Qing Dynasty, has been more than 650 years ago. Absolutely can not think of their ancestors, their own sweat and blood and life with the exploitation of terraces, an inattentive suddenly became such a spectacle of feminine chic. Later on, we went to the observation deck on the 1st. In fact, two terraces to see the same group, but on the 2nd from the get closer to see a real, a sense of the beautiful elegance of the rhyme; on the 1st distance, to build a complete picture of its majestic ax Mu wide in the breeze.
Pong the sunset afterglow home, the owner cut bamboo simmered with a new good "bamboo-tube rice," When we taste; vegetables are all fresh from their own fields to Zhai, the freshness makes the city far behind. Looking back, Tao a "take-Ju Dong-li, the leisurely to see the mountain" Apart from the aversion to bureaucracy, I am afraid there are other reasons, right? With the stay of several foreigners, I feel quite God: Longsheng such a remote place, I lived in the mainland 20 years ago are to Guilin to see only known online description; and either online a terraced landscape to ensure the quality of photos, maybe even aware that we will not come. So strike up with doubts, foreigners Erhuamoshui, pulled out of the "South West China Tour Guide". I doubled, Longsheng this is only the text description, no photo, it seems people feel better than I do -牛逼! As the next day to watch the sunrise early greed and soon went to bed rest.
On the third day Longsheng - Yangshuo morning to get up at six bombs were biological clock, washed finished just ready to go out, Amon's mother from the house out. We thought it was the sound of footsteps awakened her, and he kept apologizing. She shook her head, said Montagnards Qide Zao, adding days, dark stranger does not know the road, and it took us up the mountain. Aunt had been his sixtieth year, simply because it can not see gray hair wrapped in turbans, this how we will be the nerve? Be aunt insisted on seeing, also home of the flashlight stuffed into our hands.
Looked at the elderly lead the way in front of a sudden, I am reminded of the previous day, we concern ourselves with other homes to live in hotels, take the opportunity to 15 yuan / day rates down to 10 yuan / day, his face could not help but burst of noise red. To the viewing platform, quickly dragging a photo aunt's hand. Dawn is coming Zijin twilight, mountains, under the veil of the cover showing careless look tired, an impression of Monet-style painting on quietly lay in between the Emptiness.
To Zhuang Village, in addition to a taste of terrace style, understand what the daily life of local people is also a lot of flavor thing. After sunrise, we will be wandering around in the stockade, basking in front of the house to see the yellow straw and red peppers hanging on the vine in front of the loofah and bacon. Village has a primary school, usually only in the middle of Zhang Yimou's film can see a kind. 8:30 after the kids come in one after another; some play in the playground chasing big point would be to move a chair out of daylight through homework. Commencement of the school at nine o'clock, we have to ride back to Guilin to Yangshuo by car, they were reluctant to disturb the kids to school and was soon back to the hostel to take luggage.
Checkout upon their hosts who looked more than ten-dollar can be considered to be fair to their own conscience. Ten-dollar money, for us, only in the open air-conditioned office, sit for half an hour; for the Zhuang people in Longsheng has little interest, it may sell at some time in the crop. Man of the house from small mountain road send us to bus station, along the road even more difficult to Midao from the perspective of ordinary people watched the terraced landscape. Parting, we asked him for the address, so that aunt also take a look at digital camera shoot out of the photo. This is my first visit to Longsheng, may also be the last time ... ...
The following are bubbles in the car most of the day in the evening to get Yangshuo. From the parking lot to the "West" But three minutes walk away; to Yangshuo is only directed at its original landscape, but not anticipated in the remaining days, this street can bring surprises. We are on the West's "Four Seas Hotel" stay there, triple 120 yuan / day, 24-hour hot water, TV, air conditioning readily available. In the West roadside restaurant for dinner, can be a his best to enjoy; stay there more than one night, this feeling on the gift to one; Therefore, I think it is better later in the chapter now slowly come.
The sixth day of the fourth day to come to Yangshuo Yangshuo river to swim there are two: first, Lijiang, Lijiang xingping to the Yang Di is the essence of a lie, is famous; the other is Yulong River, but little known -- - When we go the whole river on bamboo rafts that only two of their own rent. Is also matched by landscape scenery, the Lijiang River water depth, the river is relatively open; mountains on both sides of stands in the sky, and most places, apart from a landscape studded with bamboo between the loess, there will be no other barrier; It makes sense trace in a beautiful atmosphere. As a tributary of Li River, Yulong River but has a temperament of their own. Yulong River depth and width of the Li River are not in the same class, only the bamboo rafts can float the meantime, because of this, the river was only endowed with a particularly quiet; mountains back here, and the left bank rice and cottage; so the water will not just be lying quietly mountains, but also painted the children frolic in water buffaloes with Kiko; than its mainstream, Yulong River is more Meaningful refinement. 1 ladylike, a Xiaojiabiyu.
The first day we sat in the xingping and Yang Di cruise played back and forth between, the price is only 25 yuan / person; the next day take the bamboo raft floating Yulong River upstream to spend as much as 120 yuan / person (because the lines are exclusive of the ). Taken until the third day of the freestyle events, collecting folk songs when walking along the Yulong River downstream to know that, if only for the appreciation of beauty is you can not spend a penny, but rafting is a kind of feeling stress. On foot, I have to say: On the idyllic scenery, the huge Chinese are everywhere, but the village before the river, followed by the more mountains, I am afraid the only Yangshuo bar! I remember high school Chinese textbooks, there are articles written that: "The mountains, such as Mei Dai, hut as the mole on the eyebrow point" - that is "eye-opening experience."
Stroll in the mountains during the day between the night without some special things will inevitably feel lonely. However, in the West, this may be almost zero. How long is the history of West I do not know, but said that its current style was formed in the early eighties. At that time China has been engaged in reform and opening up in 2023 the proposed projects, foreign people are a lot of traveling to the Mainland convenient than ever before. Many Westerners have been the eyes of this mysterious ancient Oriental civilization, have interest, Moreover, the "Guilin mountains and rivers under heaven, Guilin, Yangshuo A" out of stories of fame, there were often foreigners come to China was the first choice for travel. Even today, I see the foreign tourists in Yangshuo is also far more than domestic tourists. The late famous American violinist Issac Stern in China in the late seventies informal academic exchanges, in addition to Beijing and Shanghai, two relatively popular music culture of the city, another place to go is to Guilin. Later, the visit was made into a documentary "From Mao To Mozart", I believe many people have heard. Closer to home, anyway, at that time there have been foreigners'm here for the locals to meet their demands, the travel service in all aspects of the gradual westernization will be mixed elements of a good melt into the local culture. At that time may also be just a passive acceptance, along with the deepening of reform and opening up, absorbing outside influence, the initiative gradually stepped up: You can see the name of Hard Rock in the county and the Holiday Inn in a small restaurant. Estimate is that some people went to Shenzhen, Shanghai and other coastal cities, seeing the two of cultivation grandeur, and out a lot of foreigners, so took upon returning home, put the name as it appears to use its own restaurant on the. Notwithstanding the trickery and trademark infringement is suspected, but once you groping Yangshuo's spiritual path, they could not help but secretly happy.
But really need to understand the Chinese and Western, the best and most simple way than eating a dinner on the West. You can have two choices: exoticism and customs of Western food stall. Most of the time, we chose the former. The entire West to 200 meters long, however, to the middle of some of the most crowded; Street, both sides of the open Yuemo 78 restaurants, from the appearance point of view, it's hard to go into a Chinese or Western: the ground floor Mingming the streets of Paris look like a small Fils may be covered by the above happens despicably China Top China triangular canopy; the red lanterns hanging high, shining on the wall and a half "graffiti" style of painting; table covered with printed with non-governmental pattern batik printed cloth in the air floating leisurely jazz saxophone; obviously is a Chinese place, restaurants are great, but all rectification of names in English, Chinese character translation of the foil down into ... ... a wonderful West is here!
However, I still could not help it to go to Western-style, probably because the "Orient" in my personal dictionary corresponds to the "Happy Spring Evening"-like quiet elegance, while "the West" is interpreted as feasting, stuporous, decadent music, Petty Bourgeoisie person and so on bar!
Speaking of restaurants, signs have no choice but to talk about two. I do not know all those who gave their names since it is the master himself, there are still masters pointing? In short, the names of these restaurants are very casual, as if without hesitation, come in handy - what No Name, "no", the Seventh Heaven, and the whole street style is very in tune idle. If anyone should go on a magnificent and ambitious name, such as "Grand Hyatt", is expected to be expelled from membership Street. As for the price in a very moderate, and 40 to block will be able to enjoy the great. You can sit in "The Moon Cafe, under" open-air dining table, tasting only the pineapple shells with the original characteristics of cooked rice stew; the way like a cup of Cappuccino coffee, casually look at the people milling on the streets. When the silver spoon slowly stir cinnamon subtle fragrance, with Louis Armstrong's voice hoarse with melted into the night this street, you will sigh: "Life is so beautiful ... ..."
We also do not forget the customs and big partners, although it can not be located in a central location, but the West Street entrance and support on the road as hotbed of activity. Pijiu Yu had to taste the delicious, you can throw a dog has taste for the roadside, but the one on the list, throwing for more than two it will not go. From time to time to sit around to hear someone laughing in English are often billed as a look found, including one foreigner, the other in terms of appearance, dress judging, all belong in Shanghai, known as the "jobless", "Palestinian children" or "migrant workers "a class, suddenly looked at each other! Actually, the reason has just said, the foreigners like to Yangshuo, to the place of foreigners travel more than the Chinese, who want to earn the money necessary to whom the words doctrine. We have also seen an old aunt selling water at first among the English-speaking foreigner in the circle, walked suddenly cropped up saying, "こにちわ,みずはたりますか?" (Japanese: Good morning, to the water it?), I taken aback and lay! We feel incredible, exaggerated her cow, was she heard, and asked where we came from. We say that in Shenzhen, and she actually told us: "You are the Department of the Shenzhen side of degrees ah?" I fainted the moment before she had bought three bottles of mineral water impulses. This is a wonderful Yangshuo!
Postscript from small to large, can be considered to have played a lot of places, but never felt like this so much, probably because of Taiwan's digital camera accompanied by a very good reason why bar. Photo color and framing are very good months, I finally live up hard "Kill skills." Only regret is that the vicinity of Guilin has been no rain for two consecutive months, Lijiang River water in smaller spots. Coupled with a time when the autumn leaves of riverside trees, the mountains are dark green, so unlike the spring and summer hours of the mountains is so Jiao Chui dripping. Using physics to explain is this: dark green tender than the green in the spectrum closer to the purple end of the shorter wavelength, penetration will be weak, and thus appear relatively bleak. However, if spring go, will not see Yulong River River green and yellow paddy fields, and may be more monotonous. Do not perfect, do not demand perfection. In short, the purpose of his return trip after the surge of patriotism!
Author: leonard_li