Xiangxi OK
Phoenix
To western Hunan to go is well-known and some thought. "From the text of his autobiography," The detailed narrative of the Phoenix, the old thing, "sunset at dusk season, stood alone in the towering mountains that surround the isolate them height, overlooking the fortress of those near and far incomplete, but also vaguely want to see the torch pass the time warnings acute angle of the drum proposed projects, "" a stream flowing out from a mountain stream ..... absolutely clear water year round, mostly mandarin fish, crucian carp, carp, big feet bigger than people, "human landscapes Phoenix small town, indeed the introduction of charmed.
Huaihua out of the way are mountain roads, the Miao and Tujia Mulou side of the road can be seen everywhere, very national characteristics. Mayang Miao Autonomous County is less than the street I saw a big black tiles brick mansion, Ma Tau walls towering cornices, Qi Yu grand, certainly in modern times the local gentry's houses, and minorities are two completely Mulou style. Such houses I went from Phoenix to the roadside Jishou also saw a pity that the roof had collapsed, leaving only a passing resemblance to the.
After Mayang County when it comes to see a River, with all the characteristics of streams in western Hunan, clear, Xiu-mei, check the map, this should be water-chen, a tributary of the upper reaches of Yuanjiang.
After a drive of about three hours, noon, and finally to a dream town in western Hunan - beautiful and mysterious Phoenix.
This is the origin of Phoenix, according to "From the text of his autobiography" in the statement, "only because of over two hundred years ago when the people rule the land of China for the remnants of the Miao Zhen Fu and murder, sent a team of Xu Ting Tuen soldier stationed in a square with the Castle and the residents. "
Phoenix is a modern well-known writer Shen Cong-wen and the famous painter Huang Yongyu home.
Shen Cong-wen was a colorful person. Childhood is a naughty and does not study, truancy fight gambling, and his best play of sensationalism, education is a primary school. Later, in western Hunan where the local warlord forces soldiers, in the Yuanjiang River for five years wandering the one hand, the personnel into the western Hunan style, while on 54 exposed to democratic and scientific ideas, the enlightened, the bold step to Beijing to study creation, through unremitting efforts , and finally into a generation of literary people. After 2049, Shen Cong-wen left the literary world, meditation engaged in cultural studies, became a highly successful cultural and historical scholars.
With regard to Phoenix's beautiful scenery, Huang Yongyu in the "landscape of the sun," one paper wrote: "City, half of the rolling hillside, some valleys, some old-growth forests and grassland, with a fine stone wall up and down Embroidery from a circle to Quan Zhu. outsiders head still so good-looking, there is a bridge, bridge stacked with 24 residential houses, sunny li Liang Zhao dazzling red clothes, there is a middle of the bridge is a tile roof of the street , selling a weird thing. Bridge downstream of a bend of the river Po, the designers learned to make the bend where skill, and built a Longevity Palace, also dotted the left side of a small extrauterine Baita. so all day on the bridge will be able to enjoy the nice reflection. " Huang Yongyu such a detailed description of a place called Sandy Bay, is the most beautiful landscapes Phoenix is Huang Yongyu old Zhaizai to "win Tsui House" is located. Huang Yongyu writes bridge called Hongqiao, the bridge has long been demolished old house light, and in recent years of contamination by the tourism economy of light, is finally restored. We came here works coming to an end in the dismantling of scaffolding, workers doing painting and the last modified live. Longevity Palace is a former Jiangxi's Hall, main building has collapsed, doors locked, has not yet had time renovation.
Huang Yongyu also writes, Phoenix "outside the city are thick, dark blue, trees, streets, shop the way red quartzite stone road at the end of a sewer, roses, costas, dog legs plum, tangelo we have too many trees, flowers and fruits are often unearthed from every household of the white walls where the branches come. behind closed doors when it rains, can hear the Health and leather wear spikes from the door of the passers-by Ding Dingding walked, but also hear the temple Building corners of the iron railings Wind Duo Tintin Dangdang voice. "cross-fertilization of vicissitudes, after pumping out steel and four olds such as movement, both inside and outside Phoenix, the trees have been retained very little, in the Huang Yongyu home" wins Tsui House, "opposite the mountain there is still surviving trees at the post.
First arrived in Phoenix and small SD and I carry his luggage at the hostel where a good placement, the hungry to go to the streets looking for food. A turn on to the streets, the Street is still preserved in the time of Shen from the original text of truancy, quartzite winding road on both sides most of the building or door wood wooden wall Mulan, Street is narrow, from time to time back a bamboo basket carried on the Hmong pass by. Sky Light from the second floor on both sides of the clip-gap Youde Mulou thoroughly down, the more so that streets become quiet calm. Every household under the eaves, red lanterns are hung, it is estimated the tourism sector arrangements. And Shen Cong-wen's truancy are different from the maximum point stands poles along the streets, street Yanxia densely covered with all kinds of cables, wooden building to the TV screen flicker, which regarded as result of the development of modern civilization Bar .
Phoenix people are very relaxed, as if a little busy, men and women form a circle can often be seen playing cards. Their brand is also very characteristic, not our common Mahjong is a home-made cards, we hang out together with gusto, a lot a lot to spend their time. I think the games are played such a home-made cards, Shen Cong-wen should be very familiar with it, his autobiography, described on the gambling is so vivid.
Woliang a small street cruise in Phoenix, Phoenix's Street Street now become a tourist commodity, there are many craft shops. The store has an old porcelain, blue and white batik fabric, Hmong embroidery, calligraphy and painting, and so on.
Modern porcelain, Taizhou, a Phoenix with us with a quite different, which has a rounded's Jar, an oval-shaped Jar, in particular, more common, and these-type, I had not been seen in Taizhou. Later on, I know that in Changsha, the oval is called "melon pot", with its shape melon, it would perhaps round spherical "watermelon pot." The two porcelain was used previously in Hunan Sheng salt or sugar, container, while the Department of Zhejiang Province is four big mouth Jar's.
Blue and white batik cloth is a specialty of western Hunan, all the way there to sell, but for the most famous batik Phoenix Schomburgk. Xiong Xiong called batik masters seem early, Phoenix Street located in an old one, the Xiong early batik dyeing his or her own paintings their own, and have more features, prices are relatively amazing, a small batik cloth to a few hundred dollars. I asked him if he hung on the wall of a height of about two meters long, how much money the Phoenix Diaojiaolou Figure banners, he said that this gesture to do so not for sale, and later said that people see no selling price of 10000. Xiong Another characteristic of batik shops are not allowed to photograph the estimated afraid of people stealing his ideas, but I think he designed works are also not necessarily more sophisticated ideas, he cited that picture batik Figure proud of Chi Pai-shih, or copied from the books down.
Miao embroidery is characterized by rough warm and flowing, the color red big green, colorful, rich national style, but far less than the precise extent of Jiangnan embroidery. In a shop, a Wai Dou Xiao-Qing China and Italy, indeed embroidery well, can be a very good price to 1800 yuan, were dropped.
In the Phoenix Street, there is a very interesting painting shop. The owner is a local small group of young, self-study of oil painting techniques, and carefully composed pieces of the Phoenix landscape painting, and then the pieces of work will take this blueprint and kept copies for sale to copy. This is the female parent has become pieces of his savings, which is a copy of the Provisional down profits, as long as the tourists not be extinguished, a profit can be sold all year round. I asked the owner of the female parent sale? Nature is not for sale, but copies have six or seven hundred yuan. According to store owners say business is good during the National Day, it is estimated a profit of money. Unfortunately, such a talented young people reduced to become a painter.
Phoenix Street to protect well and, possibly, etc. Xiang Xian Shen Congwen Huang Yongyu under the influence of Fenghuang County officials are fees for the conservation of ancient monuments some brains. Street houses some of the new office is also the black tiles of the old-fashioned brick building, some residents of the house is newly built homes reinforced concrete of the new housing, I saw written on the walls are big "to" word, meaning, it ordered owner brick house into a black tiles cornices jump angle of traditional ethnic style. I think that the practice of Fenghuang County is very wise. Phoenix is located in remote, land scarcity, the development of industry and agriculture is a piece thankless job, but Phoenix scenic, cultural Festival, promising the development of tourism. If we fail to protect the renovated old city is good, and so the future may be too late.
And turn the small Seiwa I switch out of Phoenix's east gate, then through the Hongqiao, to the east coast of the Tuo River.
This Tuojiang, in Phoenix's status is very high, the location of the ancient city of Phoenix has been called沱江Town have gained. About Tuojiang, "from the text of his autobiography," he wrote, "that the river has mandarin fish, with carp, a small catfish, fishing, many people went to the upper reaches of 1:00 around the sun on a sandbank ..... full of white with green vegetables, every day there are many women come back a bamboo basket, laundry, using wooden pestle in the flow, beat, sound of a crash from the sound of a crash at the foot of the north wall to be out of Echo. "At that time, compared with the Shen-wen, due to booming tourism and economic development, water and garbage Tuojiang increased significantly, but still very clear, the water derived from a dazzling aquatic plants. Hongqiao is the most beautiful scenery above and below the Tuo River, the West Bank is the best preserved Diaojiaolou Phoenix group, then a small Mulou simplicity along the danger-li, layer upon layer, depending on the Castle Peak waterfront green water, Wan Ran is a batik style green city map.
Wolia south along the east coast of Tuojiang walk through an old stone road, bypassing the Bay, under a small hill, when suddenly there is an old one to see the street door wide open door is a small courtyard, main building of the front is hangs a plaque, official script "Four Music Hall." I go see for yourself Xiao-qing, four music halls are filled with scrolls of calligraphy couplets vertical shaft and so on. Within a short while, the host came out, was a hale and hearty octogenarian over the old man, attitude is very polite, introduced himself had called Kimitake, likes calligraphy LianJu traditional literature. A total of four music hall is a three house faces south, in the face Tuo, feng shui prosperity. East, the first for the study, the quiet dark, south, there is a wood, the window planting Xiangfei Zhu, as well as Cecil vines, pull into the room, like Lu Li, "Prisoners Green in mind," a text description of the scene.
Music Hall from four out of the edge is the Longevity Palace and Xiachang Court. HUANG Chang-ko is a jump angle of the three kulou cornices. Woliang bought a ticket on the third floor, inside empty. Lin Chuang diagonally Huang Yongyu's "wins Tsui House" can be enjoying the lower Bay in the vicinity of Hongqiao Tuojiang Xiuse.
Shen Cong-wen's house in the town camps Tuojiang Street, was built in 1866, in order to Shen Cong-wen's grandfather, Hunan, Guizhou prefect SHEN Fu Qing generals resign after the construction go home. December 28, 1902, Shen was born in Shen Cong-wen will be the second into the right side of house is the house.
Shen Cong-wen's house was a total of two into the mansion. 1 is a hallway into the left and right are two side houses. After the hall had a fine courtyard, the courtyard has a large water tanks, water tanks Shenyou in green water, green water, in which stands a Qiaoba of the rockery. Courtyard flanked on either side rooms. Main building, there are three, one-style carved floor length windows. Display at the former residence of Shen Cong-wen used wooden table wooden chair wooden bed, material quality, production fine. Will also feature the works of Shen's manuscripts, etc. for viewing. Shen's works to the mid-eighties Hong Kong Joint Publishing and the Flower City Publishing House jointly published the "Shen Cong-wen's Collected Works" version of the best, unfortunately when I am in college right Shen light, resonant style of the text can not be realized or addicted to Yu Da-fu's style , one of the "Shen Cong-wen's Collected Works" missed. I bought a house in the Shen Congwen "Phoenix Cultural and Historical Data," first two series of two books, the second series of "memory of Shen Cong-wen" albums.
From the former residence of Shen Cong-wen out, first go to Chaoyang Palace and Xiong Xiling's former residence, and then go to the Phoenix city gate tower on the north, along the walls of the new restoration to the southeast direction, until you come to East Gate tower. Outside the city walls is Diaojiaolou groups and Tuojiang.
Tuojiang water is blue green, evening sunshine little Seiwa I sat in a canoe after the previous one, the leisurely way along the river to flow downstream. Hongqiao small canoe through the deep pools under the bridge opening, the right bank is the row upon row of Diaojiaolou, in which Huang Yongyu's "wins Tsui House," particularly conspicuous solitary Qiao. Into the shallow waters, I reach out to pull a few into the water plants, one is the sea belt, and one is rough Ceratophyllum demersum, Tuojiang li Mitsue are these two plants, lush exceptions, the small group said that the water boating when the person who has been a big river of grass Juanzhu feet are very dangerous. Tuo of the water there are many dissimilar dragonflies fly trippingly en masse from time to time Tingting fell on exposed rock surface, this looks like a butterfly dragonfly rough, but is indeed a beneficial insect dragonfly.
Shen Cong-wen Shen's Memorial Cemetery in fact, is one side of the hill Tuo, a piece of legislation a rock monument engraved with Shen's left above sentence - as I thought, understandable "I", as I thought, may know "people."
That night, I alone to the ancient city streets and look at both sides Tuojiang night, every household in front of the red lanterns are lit, the whole town immersed in a warm and peaceful atmosphere.
黄丝桥古城Wenchang Pavilion Primary School
The next day, we decided to see黄丝桥古城and Miao sidewall that is the ancient Great Wall of the South. Tuo these two monuments were not in town, to take the minibus to the countryside to see.
We Tuojiang traveling to the town of more than 20 kilometers outside the town of Allah. The way you can see on the roadside hills south of the ancient Great Wall sites, only a segment of the incomplete walls and fortresses, repair work is now under way. According to reports, the South built in the Ming Wanli repair the ancient Great Wall, the Ming government suppression of the Miao uprising military build border wall, the west pavilion off the east Magpies camp, length of 190 kilometers, JiaQing years, rebuilt, destroyed in the late Qing dynasty, and now there are sections of the territory in the Phoenix site.
黄丝桥古城in Allah five kilometers east of the town, the ancient city located in the Hunan-Guizhou border, an ancient line of the strategic side walls, was built in the Tang Chui Gong three years (Liubaqinian) during the reign of Empress Wu, for that Therefore, Yang Waste county government, the Qing Emperor Kangxi white terror (1700) converted into Stone City.
From the outside perspective,黄丝桥古城really well preserved, but a town gate, a small trace of SD and I would feel disappointed. The ancient city of residence of the local farmers, is full of messy cement brick farmhouse, with no match with the ancient traces of ancient buildings.
Fortunately, the ancient city walls, and three gate preserved very complete. Huge blue stone battlements towering brick extension, rock crevices between the vicissitudes of the green covered with ferns and moss. Small city, small Seiwa along the wall, I have come a full circle, only a few hundred meters, but the flavor of the ancient city wall walks great sense of history. Compared with the ancient city of Taizhou taozhu,黄丝桥古城better protect the walls, but there are a large number of Ming and Qing Dynasties taozhu city residential buildings, the bridge area is also much larger than the yellow wire.
Ready to put an end to Phoenix and Streams, I suddenly recalled that there is an important place can not not go, that is Shen Cong-wen and Huang Yongyu's alma mater - Wenchang Pavilion primary school.
Wenchang Pavilion Primary School is located in the foothills of South Mountain, perched between Castle Peak, the face of the ancient city. One into the new gates, stretch of towering giant trees, the environment is very quiet and is really a study of the benefits of the. Wenchang Pavilion Primary School was founded in 1905, the Republic of four years (1915) Shen Cong-wen to school, it was not until six years out of school to become child soldiers. We climbed up a slope, through the playground, there is a reddish green water of the pool, pool on a stone bridge, onto the stone lintels hung Huang Yongyu inscribed, "Wenchang Pavilion Primary School" School plaque, it is estimated it is Shen Cong-wen, Huang Yongyu when the old school gate. It is said that in 2082, Shen Cong-wen, when returning to visit his alma mater, Seeing plaque on the accompanying person, "said Yong Yu daring Big deal! His alma mater, such as the mother, may I ask as a person, can be casual to mothers title title number it?" Shen Cong-wen yes Huang Yongyu elders, they are able to say so.
Into the old gate, the left side of the classroom door hung a card, stated that this is Shen Cong-wen Huang Yongyu schooling and classrooms. Outside their classroom door with a Phoebe, 15-year-old Shen Cong-wen truant one day to see the local theater wood skull Hunan opera "Monkey King had Huoyanshan", the next day was kneeling under a tree. I would like to, how not in this tree is also hanging a card, letter to "Shen Cong-wen kneeling office," which is a taboo for the Sage.
And then climbed up a hill, there is a "Shen Cong-wen Collection House", which is Shen Cong-wen's alma mater in 2082 to donate royalties 10,000 yuan to build, and is also the hometown of Phoenix wanderer manifestation of newborn baby love bar.
Wenchang Pavilion leaving primary school, along the South China city at the foot of Dan Bandao to go, suddenly I think this is a bit familiar with the terrain, one asking passers-by, So this is what Huang Yongyu in the "From the text of his autobiography" in the illustration, "Rock Slope brain" lies. While the old style has been destroyed, but still faintly imagine that more than 80 years ago, Shen Cong-wen truancy along the rock slope to the outside of the brain play a scene.
Deben
Hand, according to the "New Century Tourism" a book about, Jishou most scenic areas is "Deben," Deben is Hmong, which means the beautiful valley. Deben Miao Village is a small village, about 80 a few households Miao people, mostly gray tiles huts, thick and lined up along the hillsides, interspersed with quartzite paths between huts, bamboo interspersed from time to time, and under the eaves of every household hung with clusters of red peppers, as well as corn on the cob. Village is located in the valleys among the mountains, a clear tamping Gap Creek around the village before, surrounded by towering peaks, Xiongqi stricken.
After dinner, I moved Xiao-Qing 2 the roof of a small wooden chair to sit down at a small residence on the rest of the platform. There are many all around the village of Deben Qifeng, where the west side of Pangu highest peak, elevation 7 Bai Yumi, the original second peak is a forest, a tiger-nam, Quercus phillyraeoides, Distylium, P. tobira, azaleas, grouper wood, Cyclobalanopsis trees, fern trees Photinia, Chinese pistache and other species. Under the mountain peak in the Pangu Ao, there is a large forest of rare wild bloom.
The next morning, the world is a Mengmeng rain, fresh air, it seems there is a far too sweet. We are north of the village along the peak under the Peacock Spreading Its Tail Creek upstream of Kowloon, the Kowloon to see the source of the high river known as the whole of China first 216 meters high waterfall waterfall stream yarn. Length of four kilometers, Kowloon Creek, winding like a ribbon between the Castle Peak Canyon. Side of the stream there are narrow slippery stone path, gurgling stream, river lake fish Xi suddenly contacts, Lilikeshuo. Canyon empty, only freely grazing cattle Baiya play, such as a quiet haven map.
Halfway there is a river beach in the sand to move stones, made a small drainage, seems to grasp what. I stopped to look closely, the original river beach in grasping a small bug inside the crab. I asked him what grasping them, he said that as fishing bait. I asked why dig a little drainage, he said that in order to sand the edge of the water row out to facilitate the grasping of small crabs insects.
About the adoption of a skateboarding for a small wooden bridge, from the Silver Falls, the northbound train was not far from the door, Kowloon. Jia Zhi cross peaks, cliffs, such as cut.
The next room is the source of the Kowloon Creek - stream yarn falls. Thin flow of water from the cliff top of Cecil's hanging down, has not yet been dispersed by the wind to the halfway gone. Here are nine waterfalls Shenyou Longtan.
Longtan is not far from the village's nine electricity, the edge of a seat alone in a small Takenoya, a miaojia guy wearing a bamboo basket carried on in silence. 4 weeks no one, Wolia chatted with him a few words. This one is called Shi Miao 2, this year 28-year-old, single one, brothers, after the separation guarding the nine Longtan, relying on several small-boat rental life, his life went as far as the nearby town.
Shi 2 tells us that both sides of this river valley in Kowloon, the original forests are dense, people have no access to. Engage in household responsibility system, the early eighties, the whole divided into mountains, people have cut down trees to sell charcoal burning, so now never see a tree in the valley. This flow of yarn and 9 Longtan waterfall is probably the tree-felling was I found.
Back to the Deben Village, Daocun Kou, Xiao-Qing Miao girls rented a set of clothing, headgear, silver, embroidered pants, embroidered Wai Dou, one by one wrapped up, let me give her photograph. So the front is the Miao huts, hot pepper strings, the small village of Road, bamboo between Cong, but also pretended bamboo basket carried on the appearance of clicks to clicks, eliminate a lot of film. Finally came to the village of Solitaire on the bridge, which is the seat Solitaire bridge stone arch bridge, the creek on both sides of miaojia together into one. Xiao-Qing Miao, the bridge met an old woman's sadness her face, eyes seem to have cataracts, using words to Xiao-Qing Miao tell, seems to be no money to rule eye. All of the shadow of small Seiwa old lady and give her 10 money, and she was quite a bit blunt, then the past. We are under the bridge, and asked the river, selling grilled fish string, and this old lady is not family was bad, then people say the old lady home is the richest village, I do not know is true or false.
Mengdong he
October 13 morning, Wolia to mengdong he drifted on the source of Hani Palace bus. Car driving on the mountain road Yongshun County, Tujia Mulou ubiquitous roadside villages. This belt is Karst topography, large and small from time to time to see the "funnel." Tujia and Han tomb styles are very different, narrow tombstone, and the upper is the melodies of symmetrical Qiaojiao, more luxurious tomb, the more the number of Qiaojiao.
Soon, the car mengdong he edges into the canyon. Road side is the mountain, on the other side is a steep valley. Xiao-qing had never seen such a dangerous road, wanted to see the scenery outside, but also do not dare.
Ten o'clock, arriving Hani Palace Falls. According to reports, mengdong he is a tributary shui total length of more than 200 kilometers, the main river rafting is a middle and lower reaches, the most bizarre Jun Mei. Forest cover along the river, cliff Song Zhi, when the wide river when the narrow, slow water flow, when an urgent, boat drifting, as if Barry Gallery in the surf, near misses, was Mr. Fei Xiaotong as the "best in the world drift. " Downstream river getting wide level as a mirror, the two sides Chihiro cliffs, cave clouds, wild monkeys jumping In the meantime, can take the large cruise ships along the river tour.
I would like to float a whole, the result was told that due to cold weather, bleacher full of people there are not enough, the next half of the large yachts do not ship classes, only half the drift.
Wear life jackets, inflatable rubber rafts in the ground uncanny. This big rubber rafts are two columns linked, people sat in two rows riding a rubber column, a rubber rafts can take more than ten people. Boatmen standing sticks rubber rafts to the rear of the steering wheel. We are sitting in which the temporary location to the boatman asked around the body spray splashed a little less and was told that the rear, so Wolia deliberately dallying, sitting in rubber rafts to last.
Starting from the Hani Palace Falls, rubber rafts to float down slowly. The river water was clear Bise, exception clean. We dip your feet into the water, it is strange that the temperature quite low, feet are not cold on the river where it is temperature.
Hani Palace falls down is the pinch soil waterfalls, waterfalls lie under a few boulders in the river, known as the triangle rock. Mengdong he spots a lot along the way, there are monkeys Mochizuki, waterfall Probe into spring, pig Gorge, King of Hell Beach, off the puddles waterfalls, Mengsi Gap, etc..
The two sides from time to time Nagareizumi import the river, but whether or Nagareizumi Falls, mengdong he cross the size of the tributaries are all from the caverns of the underground river is said that this is the origin of mengdong he named.
Mengdong he's charms apart from a very clear water, the two sides are also extremely well-preserved forests rare landscape. Valley in the dense vegetation, ancient willow, Metasequoia, Ginkgo biloba, dove tree, gold and other precious trees indiscriminately reproduce Phoebe. As the old era of long, dense ancient valley, Qiu dry vertical and horizontal. Limestone terrain being dissolved water erosion, the outer wall and then wrapped in thick moss shed days, odd-shaped unusual form, such as snakes, such as the tiger, such as frogs, such as pigs, such as monkeys, such as turtles, such as elephants, such as dinosaurs, the beauty of difficult words described.
Drifting along with us, there is a red tail, blue-purple the beautiful birds, and sometimes stopped in the branches, and sometimes falls cliff stone, is very lively, boatmen call it "fishing bird."
In the mengdong he on the gentle river, rafting can enjoy the wonderful valley scenery on both sides. Once inside, fast running rapids, such as the King of Hell's most dangerous beaches, as from the air slammed into rubber rafts go drifting like a person's heart as if weightless Lifting his mouth hung to his throat. I am a small-ching says that, when suddenly the most dangerous is the rubber rafts, "ran aground," hit the rapids inside the rock, a little careless to the river where people will be left behind, we must firmly grasp the rope fixed on rubber rafts . Of course, the timid tourists can be carved into the trail on the river cliff to bypass the rapids and downstream to a raft.
Falls off the puddles along the way to the most spectacular waterfalls. On the left cliff height, a "White Dragon" from the underground river in the rough out, and then scattered into a few "little dragons", which battered coastal mengdong he Valley. We have deliberately let boatman to stop, the small Seiwa I took this trip the only one Xiangxi photo.
Floated almost half of the road, the river gradually deep up there a few canyon pools, such as the pig Gap, Mengsi Gorge. Rubber rafts to sway in a quiet leisurely river valley, the two sides are unusual flowers wood lush, cliff stone between the dripping sound of intermittent, such as days outside the cricket sound. Reflected on the mysterious body of water the color of jade, unfathomable. Drift in such a valley among the mountains, like living in fairyland.
After noon, rubber rafts in the river rocks on a temporary stalls erected to stop eating, we ate Kaohong Shu and boiled eggs to supplement the heat, the spirit of the much better.
The afternoon to continue to drift around two o'clock, in the birds gorge upstream ashore to take the car back to the morning Wangcun.
Wangcun
Wangcun is the name of the town of western Hunan, is a Yongshun County. Youyang County Seat when the Western Han Dynasty, the ancient as "youyang male town" known. Shen Cong-wen's return to Phoenix in 2082, where western Hunan scholar asked him shui River where worth a walk? Shen Cong-wen's a piece of paper and wrote: Wangcun, el, shidixi, tea Cave. Wangcun ranked first, showing the position of the eyes in the Shen. But most visitors do not know wangcun because of Shen Cong-wen, but because of Xie Jin. Reflections on the Cultural Revolution, Xie Jin's famous film "Hibiscus Town" is shot in the Wangcun, "Hibiscus Town" make Wangcun legendary, and therefore renamed Wangcun Furong, but the locals still prefer to call it Wangcun.
From the side of the pier shui going up, is a few miles long quartzite paved ladder Street, has been extended to the summit of the hill. Our last night stay hotel is located along the streets. May be the film "Hibiscus Town" in Liu's selling rice and bean curd deep impression, and one up this morning, the small-ching, shouted to eat rice tofu, then asked for a bowl, I feel eating Mosha, Xiao-qing, significantly called unpalatable. A hurry to eat her, called distasteful is her, and this is a woman.
Near the pier, we looked for a family hostel stay there. Rooms facing the sparkling blue water and the shui, people harbor open. Female shop owner surnamed Xiang, Tujia. We let her give us two fried dishes, among them blindly, "Lo best in the world" that is, large snail, taste especially delicious, I eat one it is not left. This, to me, but never do, we have carefully rake and found that there are opiate shells seasoning.
In the store's door, his life for the first time I saw the mandarin fish, most of them a hand long, flexible and swimming in the tub. Female shop owner said to catch up a li shui. In contrast, painters of mandarin fish was too exaggerated.
Should be the most charm Wangcun shui Street pier and the shore on both sides of the ancient Tujia Mulou, but it is a pity, "Hibiscus Town" so Wangcun overnight fame, but also destroyed the town in this millennium. With the rise of the tourism industry, Tujia Ren up more money at hand, have pulled down a new wood floor masonry cement floor, which runs a hotel restaurant. They do not know to do so is to destroy thousands of Wangcun, but also destroy their own rice bowls. Shui terminal can no longer find a trace ancient style, shui shore Diaojiaolou also running low. Can see that the local town government in coordinating economic development, ignorance and incompetence.
Along the streets of western Hunan has a museum of national landscape, "chichou Copper Cylinder", but Later Jin Tien-fu five years (940 years) Chu Maxi Fan unhappy with the toast Peng Shih Ming engraved battle the Covenant, there is a high value of historical documents. However, such a heritage we should look at the money received five tickets, too valuable commodity, and they did not go.
Scenery from the National Museum of Western Hunan forward, there is one called the local Tujia Ren Yang Yaokui staged a so-called "Tujia Cultural Gallery", went to see we have to pay. When we went to Yang Yaokui one is eating, if not with the Tujia Ren stove, the whole family around the middle of a fire side of the room to eat while Kaohuo. Xiao-Qing find it very strange that how come the fall before the fire to roast it? Asked them how to do in winter, no anything else, that is, Kaohuo.
Yang Yaokui is an authentic The Mulou Tujia Diaojiaolou, one facing the streets on one side and hanging on a cliff next to Wangcun Falls is a waterfall viewing Wangcun the best scenic spots. Unfortunately, Waterfall has been drying up, while the cliffs of life under the thick accumulation of garbage, too unpleasant.
Yang placed a number of the first floor of the Tujia and old wooden furniture, beds, tables, chairs, windows, and some wood components. Wood family's wood carving craft along with the Zhejiang was too rough compared with the. Upstairs display a number of broken porcelain rough rotten simply can not be pleasant to the eye, and thus can claim the Tujia collectors, too speculative a bar!
To be honest, there are paragraphs Wangcun Street still preserved the "Hibiscus Town" where the Hu Liu's speech when the sound of street sweeping style, quartzite Lu Mu Lou was short on both sides, wooden row of doors along the street a long wooden counter are intact, there are better students in drawing sketches. However, the intensity of protection and immediate damage was too weak compared with the speed, and full of authentic Liu Xiaoqing m tofu shop, at the door to take a picture even Jiao Qian.
We strive to make "Hibiscus Town," where several typical scenarios and typical buildings were found, took a few pictures pictures. In the square in front of the town government, "Hibiscus Town" where open mass meeting of the two symmetrical Mulou still stands tall, but the wood upstairs covered with a "cents sleep mattress," "King three furniture stores," such as billboards It is noted that two ancient buildings are still the lives of local people to service. I was very puzzled these vicissitudes Mulou how much longer can?
Old Shijo
"Yongshun County" contains the old city is chichou Tujia Secretary Pang toast the ancient capital of the regime, there had been 800 years of prosperity and history. Seven years since the Qing Emperor Yongzheng (1729) the Qing Dynasty flow, abolished the hereditary toast Tujia regime change by the central government sent officials to conduct flow rule, the old city on the gradual decline of the Secretary. But where monuments such as the Patriarch Palace, Pang Ancestral Hall, tombs, stone arch, stone, etc., are well-preserved, there is an open-air museum of the Tujia reputation.
Our car on the road but no one will be gone, they hooked a Hill Road. This road was indeed very well-deserved reputation of destabilization was the head were dizzy, almost an inch of flat road, the small-ching said that it was she had seen the worst way. Wuling small cargo so Britain Britain Britain to climb, climb a big half an hour to the top of the hill, and the mountains we can see layer upon layer upon layer of mountains near and far, a total of 78 heavy, crawl on the foot. Downhill is also kept with Britain Britain Britain, few pedestrians on the road, villages are not many shows that this area of desolation. But the old saying that, the more dangerous and inaccessible place, the more impressive is the scenery a unique view of ordinary people are not spectacle.
Toss one and a half down the mountain more than an hour, Wuling products in a small mud houses before the stop. Driver said, the old city to the Secretary, and your own play, I'll wait for you here, two hours. We turned to mud houses, wow! Is simply the beauty of rare earth. One bay clean water flows through Dumu a small bridge, the huge bluestone cliffs formed a music Creek, stream Furuyanagi vigorous, exuberant foliage, slanting sideways two boat on the beach, good one, "Nowata unmanned boat from horizontal "poetic map! This Division River, surrounded by water, such as semi-pieces of jasper old Division cities, the Division River, is mengdong he.
A village, really beautiful, all are authentic Tujia Diaojiaolou, a messy house at all. Cuyuan on the road covered with pebbles, one by one Along the sparsely populated, quiet calm and disclosed in a strange atmosphere. I hasten to raise their cameras, snip snip according to a non-stop. Here is indeed the capital of eight hundred years Tujia Guzhi toast with one of the ancient rich and pure style.
To the village center, a wild grass in the bush, we have seen blocks of large-scale Mulou. One asked the villagers to realize that this is the toast of the palace remains, no wonder the general population with the village Mulou the momentum is entirely different. The right side of a two-story Mulou, sitting north to south, a total of five large rooms lined up. There are three Mulou left, sitting West, east, like an observation tower is the tallest building in the village. It has been completely abandoned two Mulou lost, the living room no one objects, seriously damaging doors and windows, in the silence of wilderness left to come from nowhere, rain and sun, only towering remnant footer, showing the former majesty.
2 Mulou through the middle of the grass, was a step. Hey! You see, Xiao-Qing suddenly exclaimed. It turns out her level of rocks found in puzzle, there is a beautifully carved bluestone moire, which must also be a relic of the palace toast.
Onto the stage, the face is a tall wooden floor, door closed, painted wooden pillars completely faded wooden wall wooden wood exposed years of vicissitudes. A gate at the foot of Tujia women sat quietly, we have passed from her side, she Touyebutai, eyes a loss. Front door there are two well-preserved ancient Shek Kwu, even the base enough to have a meter tall, moire, and drums are crafted nails, Shek Ku has a carved top is also the title of ring Shoutou, seemed mighty compelling. We looked through the crack in the look inside, see the door is a temple, and to greet door is a tall, full gubei Unfortunately, in the door is difficult to get a glimpse of the whole picture. Gubei open base, lay a schoolbag, this temple is clearly inhabited.
We asked that this Dianmen Tujia woman can open, the woman said something vaguely we all could not clearly understand the case, Touyebutai. No way, I turn around these temples half a lap and found that there is a small door on the left is the Xu Yan, and they and the small clearing inside. This indeed is a shrine dedicated to the 10 seat main hall of God a few Niou. While we are pondering this is what the Hall, it was originally sitting in the door downstairs Tujia woman walked in. It turned out that was her home, but also more than 200 years ago, Pang toast of the ancestral hall, Dian Shang dynasties worshiped Niou is toast statue. I think these are new plastic Niou, and asked the hostess, and indeed the original statue in the Cultural Revolution were "four olds" Zadiao had. Xiao-Qing are wondering, how the Cultural Revolution, even such a remote mountain village have leather to it? I feel normal, it is "a red mountains and rivers of the motherland", and it do not talk about the Cultural Revolution, and the Qing Emperor Yongzheng as far away as the capital engaged in the "flow of the Qing Dynasty," has decided not to this toast the mountains regime fate? Political power is immeasurable.
I asked this old house to live in Pang Ancestral Hall in the Tujia woman who is not surnamed Peng, she said that to his name. I asked are there any descendants of Pang village, she said no, "the flow of the Qing Dynasty," as early as after all moved. Now the ancestral hall of the wing became the toast to the woman named one of the Zaofang and a bedroom. Woman surnamed Xiang quite good for us, but I always felt that living in the mountain temple in the Tujia woman has a right to survive in the Meiyu Jian fate of the confusion.
Out from the Pang Ancestral Hall, we went into a ditch, as a general rough gravel road. Wai high on both sides of the platform built, the platform is Tujia villagers Mulou houses around the houses is a lush clumps of banana trees and some other unknown weeds. Along the village can hear the voice, but not see a shadow.
Through the Village Road, in front of a small slope down and two were carrying bundles of firewood volume Yanyanshishi Daqing children, a man and a woman walk unsteadily from our side. Later we know, today is Saturday, they did not go to school, then sensible to do point at home to help the living.
Xiao-Po onto the right fields stood an ancient stone arch, the surface trace of moss-stained, ancient green abundant above engrave with "children and grandchildren will enjoy a lasting" four characters. History is a fool who would like the original it is what the Royal Yuci glory of St. Paul, to now, Pang descendants had Fengliuyunsan, I do not know where you are in!
Then we must move forward, out of the village, and we turn into a lonely village huts Tujia, inquire about Tujia Patriarch Palace and the ancient tombs where the ancient toast. Wooden huts there is only one old man surnamed Wei, he said Patriarch Palace would also like to walk down along the River Division 2 li, toast tomb in his home on the hillside behind the house.
We bypass the huts, in a bamboo grove Bamboo repair found a pair of tomb worship in front of stone horses, bridle saddle cage bridle, exquisite carving, wood sub-simple way around the circle with the circle, to show that the protection was intended. We have the edge of pocket for a long time, but no traces of tombs. Xiao-Qing said the walk, I asked her to weijia cabin Xie Zhao, a person continues to looking up the hill.
The trails along the gut the more I climbed higher lopsided. Surrounded by exuberant jungle of the original, though the afternoon, Lin Yin actually a gradually down the mountain wind is blowing is blowing people barbed spine hair was cool. I felt a trace of fear, but do not want to give up looking for toast tombs, and continues to dense forest walk. Suddenly, the air of the smell of urine rains burst of air wild animals, I am nervous, recalling four weeks, there is no deserted, only the sound of the wind shaking the leaves. This Xiangxi the mountains would have a Butch Cassidy and the like beast? Intellect tells me these rare animals have been extremely rare, if hit, but big news, but his legs could not help a little shiver, and quickly turned away, according to the original road bolted down.
I gasped terraced entrance to the village went to the edge of the roadside grass suddenly found him a person that can accommodate a crawling Shenyou black hole. This was obviously a tomb of the Dao Dong, worn out boots no place to seek the original ancient chieftain of the ancient tombs on the entrance to the village. I carefully look at the surrounding tombs, grave markers are gone, Chung Weng Shi Shou did not, it is estimated destroyed long ago became a village of a new type of housing construction. What is most shocking is that almost all the tombs have been excavation, from the new Pirates of the trace point of view in recent years, and along the slopes lined with a black hole, a round tomb, like the ghost of the ancient accusation the heaven and what Zhangtailiaokou .
I leaned Daodong a closer look, the internal structure of these tombs are very sophisticated, there are many brick walls and quartzite the tomb is divided into different regions, only after excavation, the Canzhuan gravel filled tomb, a mess. I was beside the tomb of the terrace sites, the discovery of a small green-glazed Taizhi white porcelain Yu Shi have to have been disabled, there is lack of mouth, bottom exposed tires, I do not know what the containers. Porcelain Yu-ri area of half of the water, dirty, full of moss attached. I readily put it pick it up, the old man went weijia wooden door, the porcelain Meng on the grass in the rough gravel highway.
Old City, The Last Landscape Division is the toast of the Patriarch Palace of Pang. Xiao-Qing 1 2 li I asked how far, I say that only a little way, please leave quickly, or else the sky and then later even more frightening.
From the village all the way to the Hall of Ancestors in the mountains and jungles, walking through the rugged trails is very difficult to walk. See a good a while yet to go, Xiao-Qing tired and afraid, then why not complain that I have a boat, I can not answer her question, only dragging her brisk walking, or after dark, even the county are able to return to a!
In the run-up to go slow tight touching a low drive after a while, and finally to the Division River. Pro Division of the cliff along the river a few hundred years ago the old Shijo subjects Shouzhi a row of ancient pines vigorous upright Each species had a person is unable to encircle and shade Zade, forming a more than 100 meters long corridor of the ancient pines. I walked to speculate, roof Kokuseiji Wansong Trail was originally the former should also be like this for you?
Drive through the ancient pines, abductions of two bend, climb a slope, finally Linmusensen mountain out of a corner of Ao in the cornices, the founder always come to the stage to the hall! We both grow in one breath.
Patriarch Palace by the two temples before and after the composition of the adjacent wooden structure, Forest Hill surface water, scenery unobstructed, but the door was locked, and the atmosphere gloomy silence, alone in the city is located in the old Division Division River downstream of the jungle.
We go to the rear, faint murmur was heard inside the hall, then open the doors of Xuyan that there are two villagers who speak the same defensive temple. To see us come in, they have a bit surprised, I guess that outsiders did not come here for a long time called. With them climbing Tanliaoyikuai I know that the two villagers living in the river downstream Division Division than the old city of the more remote mountain village. To keep the names of the temple, called to Sidley, a simple Tujia the elderly, very pleased to see us, warm and inviting us to look around. I looked at the seat of God, It turned out that the rear has been changed to Guan Di gods worshiped temple of the earth. I climbed upstairs Mulan side would like to try one lenses, Shou-old rushed to the temple on the Mulan clothes drying up all the income, even though these clothes for my camera did not hinder.
We ask the elderly to keep the temple open the Front Hall, the elderly will soon put Front Hall all the doors are open, and inside of the temple empty, only the corner of the room hung a large brass bell striking, bell body degrade over fine patterns. Xiao-Qing hand gently tap the clock, the sound more clear and melodious. Sidley said the elderly population it is the ancient Ming Dynasty bell, the Cultural Revolution due to great difficulty moving side to escape the heavy steel-making furnace mouth survived.
We asked Shou-old temple in this temple keep the cold mountains for many years, and there are no children, how to do a normal day? Soon 60 year old said he, and was originally a track maintenance worker, then the text management department needs to keep people here, the temple, he came, came in 2086, has fourteen years of. I never married the elderly, it is now alone, usually on the stay the temple, in the surrounding hills on the kinds of points, grains and vegetables to survive. Old man said he came here in 2086, one month can have 60 yuan wages, fourteen years have passed, and now one month's wages, or 60 yuan, so rarely go to the county seat, to a little town friends and relatives, and second, is also spending can not afford. Old calmly spoke all this, there are shares of Meiyu Jian hint of sadness about it.
Sky gradually night before leaving, I stuffed a 10 pocket money for the elderly, the elderly is very excited, in any case refuse to accept them, I repeatedly made clear his own mind, the old people are pleased to accept it. Finally, I asked the old man standing in the entrance hall founder, photograph photographs, the elderly the throngs of straight, broken in the autumn of skirts sway, I am through the camera viewfinder, you can see some bleak and desolate.
Xiao-Qing and I hurriedly left the Patriarch Palace, do not look back, I know that the temple to keep the elderly in a long time Sidley saw us.
Back to the Old Town Village, the Secretary, I am thirsty too, such as fire in general, in the Wei family discuss the scoop landscape old man drink. Before leaving, bent over to pick up the bushes on the side of Village Road in the defective small celadon Yu, suddenly, I picked up the right-hand ring finger burst Meng porcelain pins and needles pain in general. I am scared, should give bitten by a snake? No, snakebite less pain. Is the scorpion stung? Or centipede bite it? I flashed the brain are many terrible drug addicts look like. The pores of your face are erected, and his face ashen it! Xiao-Qing anxious to say, how should I do?
I rushed Wei stormed into the old man's wooden house there are several burning stoves home soil back on the road for women and just men and women of child-Qing Cai volume. I hastily said his experiences, they could not help but laugh, two smiling children in particular, Huan. They say that you are not a hand out into the bushes where it? Right ah, my mind relaxed point, wondering how they know. You this is "Biting grass" bite, and they said. This place had said "will bite the grass," is really unheard of!
That was "Biting grass" has to bite it does not matter? I asked.
All right, like a burst of pain, they said. The pain, "a while", I hurt a full two days!
Thanks to scare! When we walk, I carefully observed the big eye-opener for me was shocked Xiangxi "bite grass," and found it nothing to boast about, the wide leaves are a bit like pumpkin leaves, top with thin white cashmere, village and road, everywhere
Author: ttzrb