In such a prosperous years under the scull to listen to songs, how do you say people. After listening to songs lu You can not sue you, how do you say. 33, my ... ...
Lu good song, my people, why are you different from me in a boat then?
- Shen Cong-wen "Xiang rowset. Xiang-line Letters "
I fell in love with love Tuojiang Phoenix
(A)
Is one such, I quietly sat Tuojiang side. Looked at the front of a blue fish Punta ship, float in the water. Watching someone walking on rocks from the jump. Some people look at the logs on the bridge watching Hongqiao side. Looked at men and women were squatting on the river bank quartzite laundry. Castle Peak in the distance looked faint. Watching silence those tips to people across the photocathode old Diaojiaolou. Watching the river slowly flows.
I was quietly sitting in Tuojiang side. I do not know where to listen to the spread of duck calls, dog barking, as well as river beeps are not loud, in fact, the river is quiet, just because there are artificially created to intercept only a small gap between the beeps. Listen soon as soon as the hammer clothing sound, as if coming from the past You Yuan.
Time seems to condense here.
I was quietly sitting on the steps Tuojiang side of the stone.
Just to meet a friend soon embark on a new journey. I said to him: I want to leave. I would like to own the Phoenix stay there.
He is gone, I think I can feel the phoenix of their own. To send him away when the wave of the moment, I felt lonely. I did not immediately find shelter, but went straight to the Tuojiang edge. To sit down.
Slowly, it began to rain. Initially small, I sat there, he served as light rain fell on him. Looked at the water floating down a small spray. Many people, and some rocks across the river from the jump. Those boatmen and gradually the collected work, or stays the boat along the water walk, a number of boats docked shore, those little boats, all is blue Conyza, floating in the water.
Days dimming, I finally got up, in the House side of the ancient city of Riverside by a row of houses, including better set up Inn. Got up and went to the first house, no room has. Walk, there is. Upstairs to see when the Linjiang there is a spacious balcony, on coffee table, wooden sofa. Like a. I asked for a room by the riverside. Pick up their luggage on the road heard the faint of thunder. Had left back to the inn, brawl, and the rain will be big up.
To lay down their luggage was dark down. Or would like to see Tuojiang. Tuojiang the rain. Sitting on the balcony, you can see the following Tuojiang water slowly flowing. La eliminate the balcony lights, darkness, alone, sitting on the balcony, and I know in my eyes the Tuojiang flow. Flickering lights of the shore, in water Youde unconventional. Brawl in the rain, wind, the rain fall into the balcony. His face was rain meaning.
(B)
In fact, in the Phoenix spent two days. Gone through some places, very often, no longer holds the kind of Xanadu-like fantasy. For Shen's hometown of Phoenix, also have this kind of mental preparation. But still that should be a beautiful mountains, the environment quiet town. First arrived here, from the bus station out of felt, as if is a hustle and bustle of small towns. That happens to be Saturday, looking for shelter is also a little ado, deepened a sense of noise. Guest House stay there in the county government after the house went to Shen Cong-wen.
Maybe I like a place with their feet measured, so it makes me a better understanding of it.
We should say that I was mistaken into the ancient city of Phoenix, strayed met Tuojiang's.
Because I am from the bustle of the city in mind. I do not know how to go. Read maps, on the feel of ways to go. Should the not the case, I should have direct access to Old Town area, where there will be point to Shen Cong-wen's house signs, of course, I was aware of this. I was across from the Ambassador Hotel to which the alley, which is the junction into the farms where Guairu inside the old city.
But I did not think from where one enters, no one guidepost, Shen Cong-wen told me how to get the house. Brick cornices of the old houses, quiet streets, old stone road, and the bustling streets is only right close by. All quiet all of a sudden from the noise into the quiet. I seemed to be tightened from reality into history. History and reality, perhaps the walls of the compound, may be simply impossible to distinguish.
In the lanes to wear to wear to go, I am somewhat confused. There are also selling books shops selling daily necessities. I do not know Shen Cong-wen's will in their lives. If not this feeling with all that in modern literature, occupy an important position in the history of writers linked. I do not know that the road should not have to ask. In a fork in the road, or ask. Longer follow the written, is a fork in the road. The old streets seem unfathomable.
In a "the"-shaped intersection, and asked how far former residence of Shen Cong-wen. The man smiled said to me: "follow the same track went to two meters." I laughed. Because I see two meters tall, or that side of the wall. But I know what he meant, soon arrived. Sure enough, it turned to the wall, it is up.
The little hospital that is unusual, but again only in a courtyard. Only the door that read, "former residence of Shen Cong-wen," the plaque, it has unusual significance. In fact, the piece of plaque is also very common, is not large, a bit dejected of the word. Room and the surrounding housing when compared to not see any special. Does have a desk, Shen Cong-wen bought in Beijing, the young period, and later returned to his hometown, which serves some of age.
Quickly came out still walking in the alley, along that crafts a street, went to the East Gate tower. Slowly a look, as if there are too many things at once into my field of vision, a time I can not accept. Perhaps too little understanding of the Phoenix is limited to Shen Cong-wen. Do not know that it actually has so much history, Youyuan things.
Phoenix has four towers in the past, and now the rest, as well as the East Gate and North Gate 2, as far as exercises had been nearly three hundred years of history. Imitation is said to be built in Beijing Qianmen, the brick are tailor-made, external side has opened a two-gun nests, four on each floor. Standing gatehouse, the look of those far and near the houses, mostly brick black tiles, Yan Jiao overfly (called Ma Tau wall bar), showing the beauty of an ancient and vigorous.
Walk along the wall, although the walls of recent repairs before, but still be able to feel it had the momentum. Hong Sha thick brick walls, build a high Qiang Duo. Take a moment they reached the north gate tower.
At that time, I do not know, waiting for me, what will be.
The Tuojiang, just inadvertently appeared.
Office tower at the North Gate, along the wall to go down the stairs, through the use of iron wrapped in thick, well above the dimly traces of bullets, fought the gates, that is, a Natiao River.
Of a small town, and perhaps was quite ordinary, they can because of a small river, it appeared that Georgia Department is love, is also very different in. Phoenix is the case.
(C)
Hunan had more water. I think the water should be the soul of western Hunan. For Hunan's many small towns, just like today's highways, in the past, the water is the flow of the highway. Mountainous western Hunan, the water for the mountain cliffs of the points, so it is particularly important waterway, in the past is almost the only way.
Yuan River basin, from West Hunan, Shen Cong-wen into this small community to the large classroom where the initial path. The starting point is to take this Tuojiang bar. A 15-year-old rural children left home in the Yuanshui Piaodang five years. And then plunged into the city of Beijing. Then he wrote many books, most of the contents of his home village with the river water, and the water people, has a very close relationship. His book are sailors, there are prostitutes on the riverside Diaojiaolou have waterside grinding room, of course, there are warlords, there are bandits, but also craftsmen, he wrote of life, daily and detailed life.
The Tuojiang is very common for a River, a river of life full of flavor. It Rong Jin too many secular elements of life. It is many years, is one such secular, not much change.
That day I through the north gate tower, but also over the side of the arched wall, wall, suddenly and now, that is, the Tuojiang. I was not prepared for, or that I do not know at this time to see Tuojiang. Sometimes I look at the map there is no sense of direction.
From the map I saw the Phoenix is the water which traverses the city before. But I did not expect is that this river would be so sudden, and it gives me an unprecedented feeling. This feeling is a kind of love, a heartfelt love for the ordinary Wu Shi.
I do not say how the United States. Chu Jianshi do not think it is more clear. Say Shuiqing, Lijiang River water was clear it.
Water is not very clear, it can clearly be seen, cis-flow trend, those leisurely sway of the grass. Plants grow fairly rich. River side, it was also in the vegetables. Because of the log bridge and jump rocks in the river after school kids coming and going.
It is more then 16 o'clock bar. Sun also shining, some hot days. The shore some large stones, cast the shadow of the wall, someone sitting looking at the surface of the river, the light buttocks of children playing in the water, the water better boat parked, there are better people at the water's edge laundry, clothing sound break out the hammer. I noticed that laundry are not only women but also men and children. Some of them kegs filled with clothes, and some with baskets, or panniers. Colorful clothes, stood at the water's edge, a piece in the hammer, and then rinsing in water.
In the riverside sat for a while, carefully trying to skip rocks across the river from. Really nervous. Watching people walking above, had to feel ashamed of than. For them, this river is a part of life. For my part, just an interloper.
After a river, Jiangbei hillside houses, the ancient quartzite also have secluded road, busy taking it to the Hongqiao Inter. May be standing on edge Hongqiao is looking the best riverside location of the surviving Diaojiaolou bar. Also saw the water tower not far from 10000 reflections, many of whom have broken Diaojiaolou can not live, perhaps as a testament to the history and architecture is also still exist.
Under the Hongqiao far, there is a Hmong woman, sitting on the roadside flowers woven belt. She grown very good-looking, wearing a blue cloth lace Miao clothing, focus on work. Small looms more colorful cotton thread around his left hand sub-line, right hand a knife-shaped tool, insert the line force to fight. To spare a few, sub-lines, playing the ... ... her mother's side, there are woven into a section of a flower with a beautiful and delicate. Flower with the Yu Miao people, like Hatta's in Tibetan. And to spend with a number of practical usefulness, such as the child's harness can be used to back can be used as pack belt, can be used as decoration. Yuehua Jian with her, her smile sparkling, I really like people.
Hongqiao under the three arch bridge opening. Look past the setting sun, golden yellow sun is slanting to sprinkle the water over there at the bridge opening, 32 boats from across the bridge opening, there waterside Diaojiaolou Yingyingchaochao, the round arch of the bridge opening for the pair of images accompanied by a beautiful frame.
(D)
Know that Shen Cong-wen's graveyard on the edge Kikunami Tuojiang hill. When the evening went. It is said that half of Shen Cong-wen's ashes sprinkled on the Tuo, half buried in Waterside Hill, Linjiang of the cemetery. As I was looking for when you can not find the former residence of Shen Cong-wen signs, as here, there is no sign of anything special. Walked along the river side of the stone path, to see the paths, go go.
That road winding, narrow, walking Buduoyikuai to see a large Shi in a small piece of flat land, there are Huang Yongyu Shen Cong-wen's inscription for the two lines: "A soldier is not killed in battle, they is back home. "and then the left one will be going up, Shen's tomb to go.
I did not think would be as simple as a tomb. I have never seen as simply a tomb.
There is only one large Shi, regarded as Tombstone bar. Phoenix is said to be from the South side of the mountain brought in a piece of days in colorful agate. Wrote to Shen Cong-wen's article "lyrical abstraction" in two sentences: "As far as I thought, can understand the 'I'. According to my thinking, can be recognized 'people'." Behind the monument inscribed with his wife, Zhang Zhao and Shen Cong-wen's sister, Yale University Chong Zhang, and wrote elegiac couplet: "No, not from folding, l'etoile his writing; also ci also allows, Motherland of its people." (each whichever is the last word is "from the text of people," says Shen Cong-wen's life a true reflection of .)
Go to Shen Cong-wen's grave I do not know how far, called a tricycle to go. From the cemetery down, walk back along the river side. That kind of time, is suitable for a person walk in quietly.
Kikunami Hill on the edge of Phoenix. Dimming of the sky. Along the edge of the stone on the road less pedestrian. The boat stopped at the river, as well as river side of the hills, the beautiful reflection in the water Yingxian Chu. 2 cows went to Jiang's center, he served as master of the shore how to do up potential threat to refuse.
I clearly hear your own footsteps, Ligularia Ligularia to ring at the riverside of the quartzite on the road. In those quiet moments.
(E)
A few days later in Phoenix, almost daily rain. This weather the idea is for me. In fact, just want to feel it quietly. Feelings in this small city.
Phoenix rain, sometimes with the next forward to the next will be stopped. Not much. Sometimes a sudden from the wind, playing Ray, the rain also brought a bit hysteric. May be of general time will not last too long. So I went out, they do not take the umbrella.
At least the rain gave me two advantages, first, there is no sun baked all of a sudden as if by the summer into the winter, but added to the Kaohuo. Gregorian early April day, cold and pro-people have been especially sweet sleep. The second is rain, swallows, in the river, gliding pretty Ziying, Fabulous.
Two days before the Phoenix, is hot, short-sleeved out, it is still hot I felt thirsty. On the night at a friend's departure began to rain, the temperature plummeted. Linjiang night I sat alone on the balcony, put on all the cold I can put on the underwear. The next morning, when I sat there reading, the landlord will be for me the old lady raised up a small brazier.
Speaking of brazier, I think that is what I feel on you come to one of the Phoenix. Perhaps because a long time in Guangzhou's sake, Kaohuo become a distant memory of things that make people feel warm, especially in the cold night, the family sat Wai charcoal, think of them will feel warm and pleasant. Between August last year, also in the Villa Kaohuo Siguniangshan moon, when the electric furnace is used. Phoenix man Kaohuo, all with charcoal. Usually more than one-third of the year the time required to Kaohuo, the family have to spend a few jin of charcoal. Early that day, he saw some small shop and there seems to have just had the charcoal of the brazier burning, but also I felt surprised, all these days with temperatures again.
Phoenix man Kaohuo, also likes the small brazier on the table, the table it will be covered with a square blanket, down from the table vine, Long Zhu brazier. This be so, Long Zhu of the basin of hot air. Several people sitting table, you can read and write on the table, you can also play cards and chat will be a blanket on the lap, very warm.
Those few days, I also learned while Kaohuo, while reading books, while Ke Guazai. Or in the downstairs and the owner's children slapstick. Edge of the blankets will also be covered brazier in the legs, watching television chat a while.
Linjiang to wake up in the house the first morning, came downstairs master told me that morning, the surface of many river swallows it. Because of rain the previous night. I was not able to see the Snooze and regret it, he added, rainy day the river will always have a lot of swallow.
And sure enough, a lot of time, swallow whipped on the water surface. That is how beautiful a picture.
Swallow a lot, I can not make it clear that the extent of how many there are. When I was standing balcony, in the field of vision As a result, almost from the jump a river rock to Hongqiao, have swallow the light posture. Can not be said to be very dense bar, but when parked in a line of sight does not move, come and go, and constantly swallows the total. They Huan-ming, a, beautiful arc from time to time slipped across the front surface of the water, launched into, once again swept the water. Jiaoren see a crazy.
Those few days, because the total overcast days with, even without rain, the swallows are always in the river glide, I often sit on the stone steps on the river bank, staring them spellbound. In fact, what is sometimes reluctant to think about it, I felt intoxicated.
Tuojiang the rain, even in the absence swallows that Rain in blurred appearance, but also enough of a Jiaoren intoxicated. Especially in the dusk, a distance of the Phoenix on the bridge, there is a small road along the river, dim lighting, the reflection of the water, shaking the water will dim the lights a long gap of secluded, gently swaying in the water, is a dynamic and static affordable hazy beauty.
(Vi)
To the ancient city of Phoenix must go freely walk around.
Sometimes, what you want, and perhaps find what you are looking for, but it is disappointing. And Phoenix, do not take what purpose, to casually walk around, there are always unexpected. Will always surprise you, or surprise. And it, you go to Phoenix, there may be a voice said to you, casually long he will stay bar.
You do not know what you want to get there. May be that you want to stop, feel the day there. Do not give a good plan set out each day. With Xing Suo Zhi better.
Phoenix is not a suitable viewing tour of the town. Going to savor it. Of course, this may be only my own feelings.
If standing on the bridge Phoenix look, river like training, become a small town in the blood, flowing and persistent, with both sides of the patchwork of buildings, the best of natural and human resources cooperation. The small town and going into those streets, those quiet paths winding, often inexplicable joy into your.
I like the way the wear those quartzite to wear to go. Because it is on the river are built on mountains, uneven, Phoenix's housing construction seems to be no rules, really great stress. Tuo on both sides of the housing along the river Wan turn Linjiang extension, the other according to Gao Xia patchwork terrain. Those houses, because the foundation of a high degree of difference is difficult to uniform, but there are twists and turns of the path connected. Sometimes you come to see the front seems a dead-end, longer follow that into the courtyard others, but the one found in the past there are winding paths, stone steps, or connected away. Ordinary people to have an enchanting feeling. Those walls Shen Yuan, Ma Tau walls, large brick, or wood-structure houses, all kinds of old buildings, old Shenxiang the hump slowly, giving people back in time feeling.
Walk town, more accidents, is you always on, unwittingly, and history collided with celebrity collided with the cultural collision.
Maybe Phoenix is the result of Shen Cong-wen known, but when you go to Phoenix, and Phoenix random walk, you will find that there are so many celebrities appear here. This is a celebrity many outstanding land.
I saw the Tian ancestral temple, Chen Clan Hall, Young's ancestral ... ... those buildings are hidden in those residential areas, the level is not eye-catching. In the turbulent years, showing the stains of the old track. However, the high walls along, flying curling Yan Jiao, wide stage, reminiscent of the glory.
TIAN Xing-shu, Chen Qu Zhen, Xiong Xiling, Zheng-hong, Huang Yongyu, one month out from Phoenix. In the ancient city of walking inadvertently into, you will face to face with them 11.
Phoenix connecting the old and new city square edges, I saw a piece of stone. Huang Yongyu the inscription on the book, entitled "CLS family." I can not help but stop. Originally used by Chen Zhen, Chen San-li, Chen Hengke, Chen Yinque a four by three generations of legislation. This is why Chen generations erection? He found that "three generations of Chen and Hunan, and Phoenix have had deep historical roots," shall be erected at the original Phoenix County Yamen outside, that is, the year Mr. Chen Baozhen office next to the site.
Came back open book, to see such a few lines of text, "opened a newly published" Ci Hai " 'Chen' note, the Chen-chen, Chen San-li, Chen Hengke, Chen Yinque great-grandfather of four was shocked to separate entries, one of three generations of four who enjoys such a distinction , after looking through "Ci Hai", only this one! "
What a CLS family.
(Vii)
I remember a favorite phrase out of a friend said: "The feeling of a place is in contact with the local people get."
Phoenix were good. At least, I could feel the sincerity of the Phoenix people. In bookstores, at the inn, in a small restaurant, in the Tuo side, very often, you can freely chat with people. In the Hongqiao on a bookstore, I chatted with the man Shen Cong-wen she came back, chatted Huang Yongyu, chatting about old Hongqiao. The Tuojiang side, and the punting old chatted about his 30 years of punting years, chatting about the past Tuo, chatting about the Phoenix change.
The inn, and the owner chatted near the Miao Village. Homeowners a family of four, the young husband and wife duo, fast-year-olds, and sixty or seventy year-old mother, in Tuo side of life for several decades. Well-off family, I lived there for a few days, usually reading the morning, noon go around in circles, 34 points back to the afternoon break. Since the morning, got up late, wake up and understand that a small to go to kindergarten, the young to go to work. That day I was reading, I heard the stairs ring, a short while the old lady for me Duanliao Yi bowl up, saying that I am not afraid of spicy food, do not put hot pepper, make my heart warm. I sleep until about 5:00 pm, we heard the hostess knocked on the door up and told me to go for dinner. Later I go, they insist on not accept meal that asked me to dine together just the way of.
The walls near the north gate, there are a ticket agency travel agent, I like to walk the wall side and Tuojiang from time to time over there, they entered. The first to go when only casually chatted a bit on the topic of the Phoenix, such as how to黄丝桥古城and South Great Wall, the Phoenix area near what a good place and so on. The girl smiled, and the gap with me on the phone said, and asked me if I do a people to come, and I said yes. She said that common to some people to a girl. The second go there, is to ask about tickets, I was not sure which day back. She told me, you can booking, just want to tell her earlier, and then casually chat left.
Again, ask her train ticket, I had just moved to the riverside inn, the time there was something intended to go back to work, and asked her if she can set the next day's vote, and that was at six in the afternoon, she said do not see the votes on the computer situation, if I have to look at 9:00 the next morning. That fact, I am hesitant, for the sake of more long he will stay in Phoenix. To go the next day, when asked her if she votes no, she said that. I jokingly said, I really hope you said no, I would like it here more than he will stay. She said that you do not booked, as we spend a few days longer follow more than Phoenix. I smiled. Told her that I think about re-set bar.
Left the room I would go visit the Guangzhou call, obtaining a leave of absence issues, to the afternoon when over there, she said, I would like to follow the same track a few days. She was pleased to have told me that so well.
Still have to return to Guangzhou by. In the residential inn every day with the host family and my son the same age that a child slapstick, I would also like son. Phoenix left the morning, I deliberately went to that house travel agency, Aunt called a sound downstairs, and she came down, in the shadows I see are largely not her, and she walked down, I said, not what you thought Well, I am going to leave, to tell you goodbye. She smiled, and said that this time is really you? I also laughed and said yes, but I do not intend to booking here, and thought of Jishou themselves to buy a ticket. She said it was not in the morning to the evening Jishou should buy can buy votes again next time we play Phoenix.
From the Tuojiang side inn to go to the bus station, after eating a meal in a small restaurant, that also recognize out my boss, all the way with a smile said to me that's gone today?
I said yes. I am carrying my own backpack, walking in the early morning of the Phoenix. I feel that Phoenix is not just a point in my journey, it has become familiar, friendly, a state of living.
By: winters
